CUBA The Insiders' Guide Discover the best of Cuba’s landscapes, colonial architecture, and immutable revolutionary spirit with our local insiders. Contents Overview Contents Cuba Western Overview 3 Eastern Cuba 36 Top 10 Experiences in Cuba 3 Santiago de Cuba 37 Climate and Weather 7 Holguin 39 Where to Stay 8 Baracoa 41 Getting Around 10 Cuba Central Cuban Cuisine 13 Adventure Cuba 43 Cultural Highlights 15 Western Cuba 44 Travel Safety 17 Central Cuba 46 Visas and Vaccinations 19 Eastern Cuba 48 Hiking and Trekking 50 Eastern Cuba Western Cuba 20 Scuba Diving 52 Havana 21 Surfing 54 Matanzas and Varadero 23 Viñales Valley 25 Essential Insurance Tips 56 Our Contributors 58 Central Cuba 27 See Our Other Guides 58 Cuba Adventure Santa Clara 28 Get a Quote 59 Cienfuegos 30 Camaguey 32 Trinidad 34 2 Welcome! There’s Put down the cigars and step out of the vintage cars! Join our plenty to local insiders and wander through historical sites of revolution, keep you taste fresh peso food, shoot the breeze with the locals at a casa entertained particular, or hike through limestone caves and emerald-green here. The waterfalls – we’re going to show you the real Cuba. best part? It’s not Contents choc-a- bloc with Havana Matanzas tourists Viñales Valley just yet. Cienfuegos Santa Clara Overview Trinidad Camagüey Holguín Baracoa Western Cuba Western Our Insiders’ Sierra Maestra Picks of Cuba’s Top Santiago de Cuba 10 Experiences Explore the Viñales Valley Viñales Valley Cuba Central With red-earth lands, valleys of tobacco plantations, and limestone monoliths, it’s no surprise that Viñales Valley is Cuba’s most scenic natural attraction. Eastern Cuba There’s plenty to keep outdoor- lovers entertained here: travelers can go trekking, climbing, zip-lining, caving, and horse-riding through this UNESCO World Heritage-listed gem. The best part? It’s not choc-a-bloc with tourists Cuba Adventure just yet. Roam through Habana Vieja, Havana’s colonial enclave Havana’s intensely cinematic, colonial Road the on Goats 3 core fulfills every traveler’s image of Cuba. Stroll through the main drag of Calle Obispo with the sounds of salsa and rumba in the air; join the Hemmingway trail at Hotel Ambos Mundos and sip a mojito at La Bodiguita del Medio. Don’t miss the Museo de la Contents Revolución for an immersive coverage of the Cuban Revolution, as well as the key battles and political aftermath. Just don’t expect neutrality of coverage here. Overview Stay and dine with the locals at a casa particular Havana There are plenty of hotels in Cuba, Death to Stock but if you’re looking to support a local family and have a richer travel or just sip a mojito and enjoy the Cuba Western experience, check out a casa particular entertainment. There are live salsa – a local guesthouse – for a uniquely There are shows and music every night of the Cuban experience. plenty of week. Casas are privately-run by locals, and hotels in It’s popular with locals and travelers the owners always make you feel like Cuba, but alike, so you’re bound to make some family. if you’re new friends. Cuba Central For a glimpse into authentic, looking to homemade Cuban dishes, be sure to support a Experience Carnival in have at least one dinner at the casa. local family Santiago de Cuba This is where you’ll see Cuba’s flavors and have a Birthplace of the conga and an exotic really shine! richer travel blend of African, Chinese, Indigenous, Eastern Cuba experience, French Haitian, and Spanish cultures, it’s Dance the night away check out only fitting that Cuba’s biggest party – in Trinidad a casa Carnaval – is held in this exotic city. Cuba’s best-preserved colonial town, particular. Every year, towards the end of July, Trinidad, is a charmer. Whichever night the former capital explodes in a joyous of the week you arrive, head to the celebration of music, dance, and color. Cuba Adventure wide stone staircase beside the Iglasia Costumed performers and dance Parroquial and find Casa de la Música. troops fill the streets in impromptu This open-air venue is Trinidad’s parades, and contagious drum beats most popular choice for a night out. burst from every corner over the two- Dance the night away under the stars, week celebration. 4 Havana waterfalls, and crystalline pools. There are lots of forest trails to At the choose from here, and if you’re a 36-berth nature-lover, Topes de Collantes is Marina a must. It’s home to tremendous biodiversity, including the eye-catching Cienfuegos, cartacuba, rare hummingbirds, and the you can tocororo – Cuba’s national bird. charter a Contents Independent travelers can hire a car, sailboat, or for an easier option, sign up for an arrange a organized tour: not all trails are well- sport-fishing marked. excursion, The Cuban national holiday is often book a in the middle of the celebration, so if Scuba dive in Jardines de Rey cruise Overview you can, it’s a good idea to plan your Some 30km from the mainland at around the trip around July. Ciego de Ávila, Cuba’s Gardens of the harbor, rent King remained unexplored till the late a Hobie Cat, Spend a day on the ‘80s. or take a bay of Cienfuegos These picture-perfect islands – windsurfing Cuba Western One of the most inviting city ports you woven with mangroves, lagoons, class. could hope for, Cienfuegos – known as gleaming white sands, and crystal-clear La Perla del Sur or the Southern Pearl waters – are ringed with a spectacular, – overlooks a picturesque bay. 400km coral reef. At the 36-berth Marina Cienfuegos, you can charter a sailboat, arrange a Topes de Collantes National Park Cuba Central sport-fishing excursion, book a cruise around the harbor, rent a Hobie Cat, or take a windsurfing class. You can also rent snorkeling equipment and sign up for scuba Eastern Cuba diving trips here to a large coral reef, directly west of the beach. Either way, you’re guaranteed an unforgettable day on the water. Hike through Topes de Cuba Adventure Collantes National Park Southwest of Trinidad, at the heart of Sierra del Escambray, is this beautiful national park. Here, you’ll find ancient caves, rushing rivers, plunging 5 You can go snorkeling or diving here General Cost Guide among the technicolor marine life, and For custard- with more than 30 dive sites dotting CUP VS CUC colored There are two the dramatic coastline, it’s perfect for scoops different currencies divers of all abilities. in Cuba: the CUC of sand, (often pronounced head 21km kook by Cubans) Surf the waves of La Setenta and the CUP (The Known to have waves up to eight feet northwest National Peso). CUC is pegged equally to Contents high, this shallow rock reef is not far of the city, the US dollar, while you’ll get around 25 CUP for 1 CUC. from the old center of Havana. to the coves Like many places on the north shore, at Playa Many people believe this means there’s a tourist currency and a local currency, but the best time to hit the waves here is Maguana. this isn’t entirely true. when there’s a massive storm in the While almost everything tourists buy will Gulf of Mexico, which sends the surf be in CUC, if you get a chance to use CUP Overview crashing on the Caribbean islands. for things like produce, street food, and Because of the underwater some local transport, do it! Using CUP can be a real money saver. topography, access to the surf can be difficult from the coastline, but there’s ESTIMATED TRAVEL BUDGET a random concrete slab sticking out Cuba Western Cuba on a shoestring: US $35/day into the ocean where many people Hardcore budget travelers could easily find easier entry. get by on US $35 a day in Cuba if you’re staying in the cheaper casa particular and Soak up the sun on Baracoa’s eating mostly peso food. unspoiled beaches It will afford you slow travel, with a cheap Astral bus ride every 3-4 days, and maybe If you’re looking for a little sand and Cuba Central even the odd tour. sun, Baracoa is a must on the itinerary. Midrange: US $50/day The black-sand city beach, Playa This is a pretty comfortable travel budget Baracoa, is the most famous, but look for Cuba. You’ll be able to stay in a beyond for a tiny slither of sparkling nice casa particular and maybe the odd midrange hotel. You’ll be able to eat a mix white sand – Playa Blanca – to get of peso food and nice sit down meals and Eastern Cuba away from the crowds. can go on a few tours during your trip – For custard-colored scoops of sand, maybe even a dive or two. head 21km northwest of the city, to Top-End: US $100+/day the coves at Playa Maguana, or go The sky’s the limit in the top-end category. Stay in swanky hotels, start southeast towards the Yumurí River every day off with a mimosa, and finish for slithers of tiny, unspoiled beaches. each evening with a delicious lobster Cuba Adventure Get a taste of local peso food meal, a fine bottle of wine, and a Cordoba at Playa Mangilito, a beach shack cigar at sunset in your private Jacuzzi. restaurant. Tour, taxi, or bike along Cuba has enough luxury for even the swankiest traveler. this remote coastal road for a relaxed day trip.