Cuba: an Elusive Truth
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University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Journalism & Mass Communications: Student Journalism and Mass Communications, College Media of 2003 Cuba: An Elusive Truth Dakarai Aarons University of Nebraska - Lincoln Joe Duggan University of Nebraska - Lincoln Sarah Fox University of Nebraska - Lincoln Matthew Hansen University of Nebraska - Lincoln Melissa Lee University of Nebraska - Lincoln See next page for additional authors Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/journalismstudent Part of the Journalism Studies Commons Aarons, Dakarai; Duggan, Joe; Fox, Sarah; Hansen, Matthew; Lee, Melissa; Pekny, Shane; Pesek, Cara; Zeman, Jill; Hahn, Marilyn; Huddle, Catharine; Blackbird, Ken; Grieser, Lindsay; and Lueninghoener, Quentin, "Cuba: An Elusive Truth" (2003). Journalism & Mass Communications: Student Media. 22. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/journalismstudent/22 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Journalism and Mass Communications, College of at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Journalism & Mass Communications: Student Media by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Authors Dakarai Aarons, Joe Duggan, Sarah Fox, Matthew Hansen, Melissa Lee, Shane Pekny, Cara Pesek, Jill Zeman, Marilyn Hahn, Catharine Huddle, Ken Blackbird, Lindsay Grieser, and Quentin Lueninghoener This article is available at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/ journalismstudent/22 • Table of contents Depth Report No. 32 Where have you gone, Jose Martí? Racism no light matter 4 By Matthew Hansen By Dakarai Aarons 46 Diverging journeys One student’s experience 10 By Dakarai Aarons By Dakarai Aarons 49 Tr uth and propaganda Double shifts 12 By Shane Pekny By Melissa Lee 51 A hard time changing An international icon 16 By Shane Pekny By Cara Pesek 54 A new economic engine Medicating political ill will 21 By Shane Pekny By Matthew Hansen 56 The cost of sex Papa blurs borders, time 25 By Jill Zeman By Matthew Hansen 59 From heartland to Cuba A blessing with a catch 29 By Jill Zeman By Joe Duggan 63 Living with AIDS in Cuba A single ray of light 31 By Jill Zeman By Melissa Lee 66 Hope, threat or sellout? Perception vs. reality 34 By Sarah Fox By Cara Pesek 69 Spying in on loss of trust Husker haven in Havana 35 By Sarah Fox By Joe Duggan 72 Dissident tries to overcome past The jaded generation 41 By Sarah Fox By Cara Pesek 74 Dissent can mean jail What’s in store after Fidel? 44 By Dakarai Aarons By Melissa Lee 78 To order the magazine send a $10 check or money order — payable to UNL — to the College of Journalism, 147 Andersen Hall, Lincoln, NE 68588-0474, attention Cuba: An Elusive Truth. For more information call (402) 472-3041 or e-mail [email protected]. (Fee includes shipping, handling and sales tax.) © Copyright 2003 by the College of Journalism and Mass Communications, University of Nebraska-Lincoln. Searching for the truth Early on the morning of Jan. 1, a dozen University of Nebraska journalism students left familiar surroundings in Lincoln for Miami and Havana. Their goal: To find the truth about Cuba. For six months, they had prepared for the mission. They read scores of newspapers, mag- azine articles and books. They scoured Internet sites and analyzed documentaries. They chatted with U.S. senators and Nebraska farmers. Before leaving, they felt confident their extensive research had yielded certain immutable truths about Miami’s large exile community and Cuba’s history, politics, econ- omy, culture and customs. During the 12-day trip, the students con- ducted 186 interviews. They interviewed U.S. congressional leaders and the president of Cuba’s parliament. They interviewed members of Miami’s most powerful exile groups and the CEO of Cuba’s chief import agency. They interviewed news directors of Miami’s Radio Martí and editors of Cuba’s state-controlled newspapers. From each of the official voices, they heard many truths. In between, they also interviewed doctors, lawyers, teachers, students, bus drivers, cab- bies, psychiatrists, prostitutes, tour guides, AIDS patients, social workers, teenagers, artists, musicians, street hustlers, dissidents, Hemingway scholars, bartenders, economists, reporters, priests, santeros, farmers, fishermen and Castro's former mistress. From all the unofficial voices, they heard many more truths. On Jan. 12, when their plane touched down in Omaha, the students were confident of only one thing: The truth about Cuba — elusive as a tropical breeze — lies somewhere between Miami and Havana. In Havana, for example, some students were lied to by government spies. In Miami, some exiles accused the students of being government spies. Meanwhile, some Cubans who had agreed to interviews feared government reprisal. To protect them, their names were either changed KEN BLACKBIRD/Lincoln Journal Star or only first names were used in this report. Cuba’s state-controlled newspapers may be the country’s official voice, but its people speak their own Three months after leaving Havana, the truth. students learned another truth: The fear of speaking out was not an unfounded one. number of journalists — and charged them In the end, this report is dedicated to the In early April, the Cuban government with undermining the socialist system. All search for truth — for which 28 Cuban jour- rounded up 75 dissidents — including a were quickly convicted and many sentenced nalists were collectively sentenced to 546 years to lengthy prison terms. in prison. — Joe Starita 3 Where have you gone, Jose Martí? He dreamed of an ideal Cuba. More than a century after his death, the street-level view reveals much gray and one black-and-white truth: The poet’s dream has left and gone away. By Matthew Hansen In truth, man speaks too much of danger. Poison sumac grows in a man’s field, the serpent hisses from its hidden den, and the owl’s eye shines in the belfry, but the sun goes on lighting the sky, and the truth continues marching the earth unscathed. —Jose Martí They’re marching down a Havana street single file, olive uniforms giving them away even if you somehow miss the black rifles resting on their shoul- ders. The tour group spills off a Mercedes bus and into Revolution Square, American eyes fixating on El Comandante’s army first and the buildings compris- Jose Martí ing the heart of his regime second. To the left, a towering gray granite statue of nationalist poet Jose Martí, the backdrop of many a famous speech. Behind that, the Palacio de la Revolucion, the country’s political headquarters. Farther left, the Department of Defense, where generals once plotted tactics against certain inva- PHOTOGRAPH BY ALBERTO KORDA, REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION FROM THE KORDA PHOTOGRAPH COLLECTION OF GEORGE BURKE HINMAN sion from the north. A single peasant sits casually atop a lamppost high above Havana’s Revolution Square on July 26, And up to your right, beyond the soldiers, sits 1959. Thousands of peasants from throughout Cuba gathered in the square to hear Fidel Castro the Ministry of the Interior. You’ll find the eight- celebrate the revolution’s triumph. Oct. 29, 1492 1511 1597 Christopher Columbus’ son, The Castillo del Columbus lands Diego, settles Morro, a fort in and claims Cuba under Havana’s harbor, Cuban island for Spain’s rule, is built to pro- Spain. where it stays tect the island for 400 years. from invaders. 1500 1600 story edifice on many a postcard because a towering black-metal mural of beloved Che fills one side. That side also has no win- dows. Unseen, the younger broth- er heads a government arm from his hidden den. “You would not like to go over there,” the tour guide says through a thin smile. The square itself could pass for the abandoned parking lot of a closed Kmart, all cracking asphalt and sagging power lines. No activity save for those dozen-odd soldiers marching slowly out of sight. To belittle this place, of course, is to ignore half its truth. Here, in Revolution Square, is where hun- dreds of thousands once cheered GEORGE BURKE HINMAN when he bellowed freedom from Above: Che Guevara’s mural covers one side of the Ministry of the Interior building in Havana’s Revolution Square. Below: Batista, freedom from poverty, The granite statue of Cuba’s best-known poet and nationalist leader, Jose Martí, serves as the backdrop for many speeches freedom from America. Right in Revolution Square. where the people stood when a dove fluttered from the sky and head. Good luck. You are standing sick sister, a half-dozen dying landed on his shoulder, a sign at ground zero in his city that’s the plants and the clutter from a life- from the Santeria gods that he backbone of his country that’s so time as a psychiatrist. was their Chosen One. very different from your own. The government promised to This is where it began, a And you are so very far from repair the building years ago. regime that’s outlasted 10 U.S. the truth. Maybe the workers don’t come presidents, a half-century Cold “Listen. Cuba is an illogical because they’re busy. And maybe, War and countless hot ones, sur- temple,” Gregorio says, pointing he thinks, they don’t come vived both a 42-year-old embargo toward a sunlit sky. “You have to because he’s done something by the wealthiest democracy in be able to see the illogical temple.” wrong. the world and the death of a The conversation proceeds in communist empire. Man loves liberty even if he does fits and starts, blocked by barriers It’s a regime that struggles on, not know he loves it.