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Central America on a Shoestring 9 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Central America on a shoestring Yucatán & Chiapas, Mexico p48 Belize p230 Guatemala p99 Honduras p351 El Salvador p286 Nicaragua p429 Costa Rica p516 Panama p621 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Steve Fallon, Bridget Gleeson, Paul Harding, John Hecht, Tom Masters, Tom Spurling, Lucas Vidgen, Mara Vorhees PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Central MEXICO’S YUCATÁN Parque Arqueológico America . 6 & CHIAPAS . 48 Takalik Abaj . 166 Champerico . 167 Central America Map . .. 8 The Yucatán . 50 Santa Lucía Central America’s Cancún . .. 50 Cotzumalguapa . 167 Top 16 . 10 Isla Mujeres . .. 56 La Democracia . 168 Need to Know . .18 Puerto Morelos . 58 Sipacate . 169 First Time Playa Del Carmen . 59 Escuintla . 169 Central America . 20 Isla Cozumel . 64 Monterrico . 169 If You Like… . 22 Tulum . 66 Central Guatemala . .. 172 Month by Month . 25 Cobá . 68 Salamá & Around . 172 Itineraries . 28 Laguna Bacalar . 69 Biotopo del Quetzal . 172 Mahahual . 70 Big Adventures, Cobán . 173 Valladolid . 70 Small Budgets . 36 El Oriente . 179 Chichén Itzá . 72 Outdoor Activities . 39 Chiquimula . 179 Mérida . 74 Countries at a Glance . 44 Esquipulas . 180 Campeche . 79 Quiriguá . 183 Chiapas . 82 Lago de Izabal . 184 San Cristóbal TUUL & BRUNO MORANDI/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES MORANDI/GETTY BRUNO & TUUL Puerto Barrios . 188 de las Casas . 82 Punta de Manabique . 189 Lagos de Montebello . 88 Lívingston . 189 Yaxchilán . 88 El Petén . 193 Palenque . 89 Sayaxché . 193 Agua Azul & Misol-Ha . 93 Ceibal . 193 Understand Mexico’s Yucatán & Chiapas . 94 Finca Ixobal . 195 Survival Guide . 95 Flores & Santa Elena . 196 El Remate . 201 Tikal . 202 GUATEMALA . 99 CRAFT SHOP, CANCÚN, Uaxactún . 210 MEXICO P50 Guatemala City . 101 Yaxhá . 211 Antigua . 114 El Mirador . 211 The Highlands . 127 Understand KRYSIA CAMPOS/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES CAMPOS/GETTY KRYSIA Lago de Atitlán . 128 Guatemala . 213 Chichicastenango . 144 Survival Guide . 221 Santa Cruz del Quiché . 147 Nebaj . 149 BELIZE . 230 Uspantán . 150 Belize City . 234 Quetzaltenango (Xela) . 151 Northern Cays . 239 Huehuetenango . 161 Caye Caulker . .. 239 Todos Santos Cuchumatán . 163 Ambergris Caye & San Pedro . 243 The Pacific Slope . 165 Northern Belize . 249 Retalhuleu . 165 CATEDRAL DE GRANADA, Bermudian Landing . 249 NICARAGUA P445 Contents Altun Ha . .. 249 Tacuba . 322 Utila . 408 Lamanai . 249 Parque Nacional The Moskitia . 414 Orange Walk . 250 El Imposible . .323 Laguna de Ibans . 414 Corozal . 252 Eastern El Salvador . 324 Reserva de la Biosfera Sarteneja . 254 San Vicente . 324 del Río Plátano . 414 Belize City Alegrí a . 325 Palacios . 415 to Belmopan . 255 Isla Montecristo . 326 Brus Laguna . 415 Western Belize Usulután . 326 Puerta Lempira . 415 (Cayo District) . 255 Bahí a de Jiquilisco . 327 Southern Honduras Belmopan . 255 San Miguel . 327 & Isla del Tigre . 416 Hummingbird Hwy . 259 La Unión . 330 Understand San Ignacio . 260 Beaches near La Union . 331 Honduras . 417 Mountain Pine Ridge Golfo de Survival Guide . 423 & Caracol . 265 Fonseca Islands . 332 West to Guatemala . 266 Morazán . 332 NICARAGUA . 429 Southern Belize . 267 Northern Managua . 431 Dangriga . 267 El Salvador . 334 Granada & the Central Cays . 270 Suchitoto . 334 Masaya Region . 444 Hopkins Chalatenango . 336 Granada . 444 & Sittee Point . 270 La Palma . 338 Masaya . 455 Placencia . 272 Understand Parque Nacional Punta Gorda . 276 El Salvador . 339 Volcán Masaya . 456 Toledo Villages . 279 Survival Guide . 345 Southwestern Understand Belize . 280 Nicaragua . 457 Survival Guide . 282 HONDURAS . 351 Rivas . 457 Tegucigalpa . 353 San Jorge . 458 Isla de Ometepe . 458 EL SALVADOR . 286 Western Honduras . 365 San Salvador . .. 290 Comayagua . 365 Southern Pacific Coast . 464 La Esperanza . 367 Around San Juan del Sur . 464 San Salvador . 304 Marcala . 368 León & Northwestern Los Planes Lago de Yojoa . 369 de Renderos . 305 Nicaragua . 469 San Pedro Sula . 371 León . 469 La Libertad . 305 Copán Ruinas . 374 La Costa del Bálsamo . 306 Poneloya & Las Copán Peñitas Beaches . 477 Santa Tecla . 309 Archaeological Site . 380 Cosigüina Western El Salvador . 310 Gracias . 384 Peninsula Beaches . 477 Parque Nacional Northern Honduras . 388 Northern Nicaragua . 479 Los Volcanes . 310 Omoa . 388 Estelí . 479 Lago de Coatepeque . 311 Puerto Cortés . 389 Área Santa Ana . 311 Tela . 389 Protegida Miraflor . 484 Metapán . 314 La Ceiba . .. 392 Área Protegida Cerro Tisey-Estanzuela . 485 Chalchuapa . 316 Trujillo . 400. Ruta de Las Flores . 316 Somoto . 485 Bay Islands . 402 Sonsonate . 322 Jinotega . 486 Roatán . 402 ON THE ROAD Matagalpa . 488 COSTA RICA . 516 Puerto Viejo de Talamanca . 549 Caribbean Coast . 491 San José . 520 Sixaola . 554 Bluefields . 491 Central Valley & Pearl Lagoon . 494 Highlands . 533 Arenal & Northern Lowlands . 554 Corn Islands . 495 Alajuela . 536 La Fortuna & Bilwi Parque Nacional Volcán Arenal . 554 (Puerto Cabezas) . 499 Volcán Poás . 537 Tilarán . 558 San Carlos & Around . 501 Parque Nacional Los Chiles . 559 San Carlos . 501 Braulio Carrillo . 538 Valle de Sarapiquí . 559 Islas Solentiname . .502 Cartago . 539 Valle de Orosi . 539 Northwestern Río San Juan . 503 Costa Rica . 561 Turrialba . .. 540 Understand Monteverde Nicaragua . 505 Caribbean Coast . 542 & Santa Elena . .. 561 Survival Guide . .511 Tortuguero . .. 542 Liberia . 568 Puerto Limón . 544 Parque Nacional Cahuita . 545 Rincón de la Vieja . 571 NICK LEDGER/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES LEDGER/GETTY NICK VOLCÁN ARENAL, COSTA RICA P554 Contents UNDERSTAND La Cruz . 572 El Valle . 646 Central America Península de Nicoya . 573 Chitré . 648 Today . 708 Playa del Coco . 573 Pedasí . .. 649 History . 710 Playa Tamarindo . 576 Sunset Coast . 650 People & Culture . 717 Playa Sámara . 580 Playa Venao . 651 Mal País & Santa Catalina . 652 Santa Teresa . 582 Santa Fé . 653 Montezuma . 583 Chiriquí Province . 654 SURVIVAL Central Pacific Coast . 587 David . 654 GUIDE Puntarenas . 587 Golfo de Chiriquí . 656 Parque Playa Las Lajas . .. 657 Directory A–Z . 724 Nacional Carara . 587 Boquete . 657 Jacó . 588 Transportation . 734 Parque Nacional Quepos . 590 Volcán Barú . 662 Language . 739 Manuel Antonio . 593 Cerro Punta . 663 Index . 750 Dominical . 595 Parque Internacional Uvita . 597 La Amistad . 663 Map Legend . 766 Southern Costa Rica Bocas del & Península de Osa . 598 Toro Province . 664 San Isidro de Isla Colón . 665 El General . 599 Isla Carenero . .. 673 San Gerardo de Rivas . 600 Isla Bastimentos . 673 Palmar . 602 Almirante . 676 Sierpe . .. 602 Changuinola . 676 Bahía Drake . 603 Colón Province . 677 Puerto Jiménez . 604 Colón . 677 Parque Portobelo . 679 Nacional Corcovado . 606 Isla Grande . 680 Golfito . 607 Comarca Pavones . 608 de Guna Yala . 681 Paso Canoas . 609 Darién Province . 684 Understand Metetí . 688 Costa Rica . 609 Yaviza . 688 Survival Guide . 613 El Real . 689 SPECIAL Rancho Frío . 689 FEATURES PANAMA . 621 La Palma . 690 Big Adventures, Panama City . 623 Reserva Natural Small Budgets . 36 Around Panama City . 641 Punta Patiño . 691 Outdoor Activities . 39 Panama Canal . 642 Sambú . 692 Isla Taboga . .644 Understand Panama . 692 Chichén Itzá, Mexico in 3D . 62 Archipiélago Survival Guide . 700 de las Perlas . 645 Tikal, Pacific Coast & Guatemala in 3D . 204 Highlands . 646 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 28 Itineraries BELIZE Palenque Tikal San Ignacio MEXICO San Cristóbal Hopkins de Las Casas Punta Gorda Lívingston Río Dulce GUATEMALA HONDURAS Chichicastenango GUATEMALA San Marcos La Laguna CITY Lago de Atitlán Antigua EL SALVADOR 2 WEEKS Northern Loop: Guatemala, Mexico & Belize In depth on culture and coastline, this route loops through much of the region’s northern highlights, including Maya ruins, reef snorkeling and jungle cruising. From Guatemala City, head straight to colonial Antigua, fitting in a volcano climb and perhaps a crash course in Spanish. At Lago de Atitlán go for a few days of hiking and swimming in the new-age magnet San Marcos La Laguna. Then continue on to Chichicastenango to see the famous Maya market. Venture north to Mexico on a Chiapas loop, exploring the colonial city of San Cris- tóbal de las Casas and nearby Maya villages, as well as the jungle-set Maya ruins at Palenque. Make your way back to Guatemala to Tikal, the mother of all Maya sites. Bus east to Belize, stopping to go river tubing or caving outside hilly San Ignacio, before splashing into the Caribbean – and the barrier reef near Hopkins. From Punta Gorda, catch a lancha (small motorboat) to Lívingston, starting point for a serious jungle cruise up the Río Dulce. From there hop a frequent bus back to Guatemala City. 29 PLAN YOUR TRIP ITINERARIES WITOLD SKRYPCZAK/GETTY IMAGES © Above: Guatemala (p89), Mexico market (p144), Chichicastenango Chichicastenango Right: Palenque Ruins Ruins Palenque Right: MICHAEL DEFREITAS/ROBERTHARDING/GETTY IMAGES © 30 Ruta de las Flores SAN HONDURAS SALVADOR EL La Costa SALVADOR del Bálsamo NICARAGUA Léon PLAN YOUR TRIP MANAGUA Isla de Ometepe San Juan del Sur Liberia Monteverde Playa Grande Puntarenas IT Península de Nicoya COSTA I PANAMA NERAR Mal País & RICA CITY Santa Teresa Dominical Boquete I PANAMA ES Santiago Santa Catalina 4 WEEKS Pacific Coast: El Salvador to Panama This sinuous coastline has something to suit everyone, from insatiable surfers to dedi- cated beach bums. Inland, there are coffee farms, cloud forests, and even more diverse landscapes. Let your spirit soar on this itinerary that takes in four countries, countless monster curls and infinite adventure. In El Salvador and Nicaragua, peak surf season is March to December, while further south it’s February to March. Arrive in San Salvador and beam to La Costa del Bálsamo, home to world-class surf breaks; Playas El Zonte and Sunzal offer reasonable seaside digs and lessons for budding boarders. When you need a break from the waves, take a detour to the Ruta de las Flo- res , where you can hike to hidden waterfalls.
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