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Maluku Everything Still Moves Delightfully Slowly, Except Perhaps the Lilting Sound of Poco MALUKU Poco, the Home-Grown Answer to Line Dancing

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Maluku Everything Still Moves Delightfully Slowly, Except Perhaps the Lilting Sound of Poco MALUKU Poco, the Home-Grown Answer to Line Dancing © Lonely Planet Publications www.lonelyplanet.com746 RUNNINGHEAD •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com 747 M a l u k u Formerly known as ‘the Moluccas’, these petite little morsels of paradise are a dream-come- true for seekers of superb snorkelling and picture-perfect white-sand beaches. Protected from mass tourism by distance and a (now outdated) reputation for civil unrest, this is one corner of the world where dreamy desert islands remain remarkably hospitable and inexpensive. In Maluku everything still moves delightfully slowly, except perhaps the lilting sound of Poco MALUKU Poco, the home-grown answer to line dancing. With rustic but acceptable facilities and not another tourist for miles, this is somewhere to wind down a few gears, to learn Bahasa Indonesia and to revel in a tropical discovery that seems almost too good to be true. Maluku also offers a thrill for history buffs. The Moluccas were the original ‘Spice Islands’. Indian, Chinese, Arab and, later, European adventurers all came here in search of cloves and nutmeg. Until the 16th century such spices were worth their weight in gold and grew nowhere else. Thus in Maluku money literally ‘grew on trees’. Today it’s incredible to reflect that the search for this wealth began the whole process of European colonialism. Maluku is remote and timetables aren’t always convenient. Nonetheless, with regular flights into the region, and some flexibility and planning once here, it’s possible to snorkel the brilliant Bandas, explore the beach strewn Kei Islands, survey North Maluku’s mesmerising vol- cano-islands and explore ruined Dutch fortresses all within the limits of a one-month visa. HIGHLIGHTS Snorkelling some of the world’s finest accessible coral gardens in the historically fascinating Banda Islands ( p765 ) Unwinding at Ohoidertawun ( p777 ) or Tobelo Pasir Panjang ( p778 ), two stunning yet Pulau Ternate virtually undiscovered sweeps of the pur- Pulau Tidore est white sand Dining at Floridas or Teratai ( p786 ) on Pulau Ternate as the sunset burnishes P A P U A golden highlights onto the jungle-furred volcanic cone of neighbouring Pulau Tidore ( p787 ) Northern Seram Being amongst the first tourists for a dec- Lease Islands ade to explore the sleepy villages of the Lease Islands ( p760 ) or northern Seram Banda Islands ( p764 ) Ohoidertawun Discovering a desert island all for yourself Pasir Panjang off Tobelo ( p789 ) on Halmahera POPULATION: 2 MILLION LAND AREA: 85,728 SQ KM HIGHEST PEAK: GUNUNG BINAYA (3027M) 748 MALUKU •• History www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MALUKU •• History 749 0 200 km MALUKU (THE MOLUCCAS) 0 120 miles enlisting Spanish military assistance. Con- India Company (VOC) was nationalised. sistently committing cultural blunders, the A year later, with Holland suffering the Europeans soon outstayed their welcome aftermath of the French Revolution, the C E L E B E S Pulau Morotai and, having failed to monopolise the local British occupied Maluku. Politically this S E A Berebere Soasio Daruba clove trade, the Portuguese ‘retired’ south was a short episode. But commercially it Manado Bitung (Galela) Ibu Tobelo to trade from Ambon, Seram and the Banda spelt disaster for the Moluccas. The Brit- Pulau Islands after 1795. ish smuggled out precious spice-tree seed- Jailolo Kao P A C I F I C Ternate Lolobata O C E A N Buli H A L M A H E R A lings to plant in their colonies in Malaya SULAWESI Kota Ternate Sidangoli S E A Pulau Tidore The Dutch (Malaysia) and Ceylon (Sri Lanka). Within Soa Siu Kobe Pulau Moti Weda In the late 16th century the Dutch arrived decades Maluku was becoming economi- Equator Pulau Makian Patani Pulau Equator Waigeo with better guns and greater financial back- cally irrelevant as its spices could now be Pulau Kayoa Pulau Halmahera Pulau ing. Their bigger ships could use faster, produced cheaply elsewhere. M A L U K U Saketa Gebe S E A Pulau direct sea routes from South Africa that MALUKU Pulau Batanta Manokwari Bacan Labuha Sorong were operable year round. This trumped After Independence Pulau Pulau Pulau Laiwui Salawati their Hispanic competitors who stuck to After WWII it soon became apparent that Tailabu Mangole PAPUA Mangole slower, seasonal coastal routes via India. Indonesia was heading for independence MALUKU MALUKU Selat Dofa Pulau Obi Bobong Sanana Pulau Kioiwui Sula Misool While seeing off new English rivals, the as a unified single republic. This would Sula Islands Pulau S E R A M S E A Dutch repeated many of the same cultural inevitably be mainly Muslim and Javanese Sanana Teluk NORTH MALUKU Pulau Berau faux pas that had brought down the Por- controlled. Predominantly Christian south- Seram Wahai Taniwel Kobi Fak-Fak tuguese. However, their determination to ern Maluku panicked and tried to break Airbuaya Sawai Bula Namlea Piru Hatumetan Masohi & Pulau Manusela control a spice monopoly was brutally en- away in 1950 by proclaiming the Republik MALUKU Amahai National Park Kaimana Buru Kota Saparua Tehoru forced, most infamously in the Banda Is- Maluku Selatan (RMS). Indonesian repub- Pulau Saparua Pulau Urung Geser Namrole Ambon lands where uncooperative islanders were lican troops steadily retook the islands and Kota LEASE ISLANDS Ambon Pulau Bandaneira simply massacred. They were replaced by by November the RMS ‘government’ had Runduma Banda Islands more compliant Dutch-owned slaves. fled Ambon. However in the Seram jungles, Kei Islands Fights to subjugate Ternate and Ambon armed RMS opposition rumbled on until B A N D A S E A took longer but, by the 1660s, the Dutch had the mid-1960s. Pulau Elat Pulau Lucipara Tual wiped out all local opposition to their rule Christian Ambonese and Kei Islanders Moromaho Langgur Dobo in Maluku and had evicted the last Span- had been a major element in the Royal ish garrisons from Ternate and Tidore. The Netherlands Indies Army (KNIL). Several Pulau Aru Pulau Nila Islands spice monopoly made a fortune for Holland thousand KNIL troops in Java had stayed Teun Tanimbar Larat Pulau over the next century. However, without loyal to the Dutch during the independence Islands South-East Aru Pulau Damar Pulau Romang Marine Reserve competition, the operation became increas- tussles. Once the Dutch decided (under F L O R E S Pulau Yamdena Wetar Sangliat Dol S E A Tepa ingly inefficient. It eventually collapsed into American pressure) to accept Indonesian Pulau Kisar Pulau Babar Pulau Saumlaki A R A F U R A bankruptcy in 1795 and the Dutch East independence, some 12,000 Malukans were Alor Wonreli Serwaru S E A Pulau Pulau EAST TIMOR Pulau Leti Sermata Selaru SPICY CENGKEH & PALA HISTORY and risky caravan routes through India and Cloves were the ancient world’s cure for toothache, halitosis and sexual disinterest. Today they’re Precolonial Times the Persian Gulf. This made them vastly ex- popular in mulled wine and cooking, and used in the manufacture of chewing gum, perfumes, The name Maluku probably originated as pensive. Eventually Europeans figured out toothpaste and distinctive Indonesian kretek cigarettes. They’re the unopened flower buds of Jazirat-al-Muluk (Land of Many Kings). that they could save money by seeking the the cengkeh tree, originally native to Ternate, Tidore and Bacan. Today, however, cloves are also The ‘kings’ in question ruled Ternate, source of the spices for themselves. grown on Seram and Ambon and as far afield as Tanzania, Malaysia and Sri Lanka. Tidore, Bacan and other Maluku ‘spice Nutmeg (pala) was once unique to the Banda Islands. It too has ‘escaped’ around the world islands’. Their majestic fleets of kora-kora The Portuguese and is now so important in Grenada that it features on that island’s national flag. Nutmeg trees war-canoes policed empires that some- The Portuguese showed up in 1510. Their thrive in slightly elevated locations near the sea, especially when shaded by canopies of towering times extended as far afield as Sulawesi intercontinental expedition incurred awful kenari trees which themselves produce a delicious almond-like nut. and Papua. Their fabulous wealth came losses of lives and ships but still managed The globular, pale-yellow nutmeg fruits split in half upon ripening to reveal a brown-black nut from a global monopoly of clove and other to prove financially profitable. The Portu- wrapped in surreally brilliant ‘flames’ of scarlet filigree. When dried and processed these nuts yield spice production. Spices preserved food in a guese cheekily tried to reduce their costs nutmeg spice, which was historically used as a hypnotic medicine – it shares a common chemical world without refrigerators. And they com- by demanding a trade monopoly. With- ingredient with the rave drug ecstasy. The dried, discoloured filigree is known as mace. plemented leeches to offer the best available out any intention to respect such terms, Today, both nutmeg and mace are used mostly in fruitcakes, seafood sauces and liqueurs. medical hope against an array of medieval Ternate’s sultan agreed to a Portuguese Nutmeg fruits are popular locally despite an aroma that is mildly reminiscent of parquet-floor ailments. By the 1st century AD, Maluku clove monopoly in return for help against cleaner. spices were reaching Europe via tortuous arch-enemy Tidore. Tidore responded by 750 MALUKU •• History www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com MALUKU •• Culture 751 resettled ‘temporarily’ in the Netherlands minorities. However, their ‘holy war’ soon believe that the bloodbath was deliberately while tempers cooled. However as most appeared to degenerate into thinly dis- stirred by outside agents provocateurs, and TOP BUDGET CHILLOUTS were RMS sympathisers, sending them guised revenge attacks on Christian com- with poignant understatement the troubles Watch the waves and unwind at these de- back to Maluku later proved unaccept- munities, particularly against perceived are now commonly labelled ‘the accident’.
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