Maluku Everything Still Moves Delightfully Slowly, Except Perhaps the Lilting Sound of Poco MALUKU Poco, the Home-Grown Answer to Line Dancing

Formerly known as ‘the Moluccas’, these petite little morsels of paradise are a dream-come- true for seekers of superb snorkelling and picture-perfect white-sand beaches. Protected from mass tourism by distance and a (now outdated) reputation for civil unrest, this is one corner of the world where dreamy desert islands remain remarkably hospitable and inexpensive. In Maluku everything still moves delightfully slowly, except perhaps the lilting sound of Poco MALUKU Poco, the home-grown answer to line dancing. With rustic but acceptable facilities and not another tourist for miles, this is somewhere to wind down a few gears, to learn Bahasa Indonesia and to revel in a tropical discovery that seems almost too good to be true.

Maluku also offers a thrill for history buffs. The Moluccas were the original ‘Spice Islands’. Indian, Chinese, Arab and, later, European adventurers all came here in search of cloves and nutmeg. Until the 16th century such spices were worth their weight in gold and grew nowhere else. Thus in Maluku money literally ‘grew on trees’. Today it’s incredible to reflect that the search for this wealth began the whole process of European colonialism.

Maluku is remote and timetables aren’t always convenient. Nonetheless, with regular flights into the region, and some flexibility and planning once here, it’s possible to snorkel the brilliant Bandas, explore the beach strewn Kei Islands, survey North Maluku’s mesmerising volcano-islands and explore ruined Dutch fortresses all within the limits of a one-month visa.

HIGHLIGHTS

Snorkelling some of the world’s finest accessible coral gardens in the historically fascinating Banda Islands ( p765 ) Unwinding at Ohoidertawun ( p777 ) or Tobelo Pasir Panjang ( p778 ), two stunning yet Pulau Ternate virtually undiscovered sweeps of the pur- Pulau Tidore est white sand Dining at Floridas or Teratai ( p786 ) on Pulau Ternate as the sunset burnishes P A P U A golden highlights onto the jungle-furred volcanic cone of neighbouring Pulau Tidore ( p787 ) Northern Seram Being amongst the first tourists for a dec- Lease Islands ade to explore the sleepy villages of the Lease Islands ( p760 ) or northern Seram Banda Islands ( p764 ) Ohoidertawun

Discovering a desert island all for yourself Pasir Panjang off Tobelo (p789 ) on Halmahera

POPULATION: 2 MILLION LAND AREA: 85,728 SQ KM HIGHEST PEAK: GUNUNG BINAYA (3027M) MALUKU islands’. Theirmajestic of fleets Tidore, andotherMaluku Bacan ‘spice The ‘kings’inquestionruledTernate, Jazirat-al-Muluk The name Maluku probablyoriginated as TimesPrecolonial 748 spices were reaching Europe viatortuous ailments. Bythe1stcentury AD,Maluku medical hopeagainst anarrayof medieval plemented tooffer leeches thebestavailable world withoutrefrigerators. Andtheycom- spice production. foodin a Spices preserved from aglobalmonopolyof clove andother and Papua. Theirfabulouswealth came times extended asfarafieldSulawesi war-canoes policedempires thatsome- HISTORY HISTORY Equator Bobong F LORES SULAWESI MALUKU (THEMOLUCCAS) Sula Pulau Moromaho Alor C ELBS S EA Pulau Runduma NORTH MALUKU Pulau MALUKU ••History Tailabu S EA Pulau

Manado MALUKU Sula Islands Sula M ALUK Dofa S EA EAST TIMOR Mangole Pulau Bitung Airbuaya Pulau Wetar (Land of Many (Land Kings). Mangole Kota Ternate Ternate Sanana Pulau Tidore Pulau Namrole Sanana Pulau Makian Pulau Pulau Kayoa Pulau Pulau Moti Buru Bacan Wonreli Pulau Pulau Kisar Jailolo Namlea Romang Pulau (Galela) Soasio Ibu Soa Siu S ERAM Pulau Morotai Lucipara Ambon Labuha Pulau Pulau Kota Saparua Kao Sidangoli Pulau Leti Laiwui Serwaru Pulau Obi Piru Saketa Halmahera Weda Taniwel kora-kora Kobe Ambon Tobelo Damar Masohi & Kota Pulau Pulau Amahai Daruba Lolobata Pulau Saparua Berebere Buli

Pulau LEASE ISLANDS LEASE Teun Seram Pulau B ANDSE Sermata Pulau Sawai Pulau Gebe Patani

Tepa Banda Islands Banda Wahai Tehoru Hatumetan Pulau Nila Batanta Pulau Pulau Babar source of thespicesforthemselves. the that theycouldsave moneybyseeking pensive. Eventually Europeansfigured out the Persian Gulf.Thismadethemvastlyex- and riskycaravan Indiaand routes through arch-enemy Tidore. Tidore responded by clove monopoly inreturn forhelpagainst Ternate’s agreed sultan toaPortuguese out anyintention torespect such terms, by demandinga trademonopoly.With- cheekily triedtoreduceguese theircosts to prove financially profitable. ThePortu- oflosses lives and shipsbutstillmanaged expeditionincurredintercontinental awful showedupin1510.Their The Portuguese Portuguese The H ALMER Kobi Bandaneira Salawati National Park Pulau Urung Manusela Misool

Pulau Tanimbar

Bula Islands S EA Waigeo Pulau Geser Selaru Pulau Sorong Saumlaki Larat Sangliat Dol Langgur

Yamdena Kei Islands Kei Pulau Berau Teluk Tual Fak-Fak 120miles 200km 0 0 PAPUA www.lonelyplanet.com Elat P ACIF O CEAN

A RFU

Islands Aru Dobo S EA Kaimana Manokwari Marine Reserve South-East Aru Kioiwui Selat Equator Islands after 1795. andtheBanda to tradefromAmbon,Seram clove ‘retired’ trade,thePortuguese south thelocal and, having failedtomonopolise theirwelcomeEuropeans soonoutstayed sistently committingculturalblunders, the Con- assistance. enlisting Spanishmilitary www.lonelyplanet.com bankruptcy in1795andtheDutch East into collapsed Iteventually ingly inefficient. competition, theoperationbecameincreas- over without thenextcentury.However, spice monopolymadeafortuneforHolland ish garrisonsfromTernate andTidore. The in Maluku thelastSpan- andhadevicted wiped outalllocaloppositiontotheirrule took longer but,bythe1660s,Dutch had more compliant Dutch-owned slaves. simply massacred. Theywere replaced by lands where uncooperative islanders were Is- forced, mostinfamouslyintheBanda en- control aspicemonopolywasbrutally theirdetermination However, tuguese. to downthePor-faux pasthathadbrought Dutch repeated manyof cultural thesame off newEnglish rivals,theWhile seeing routes viaIndia. coastal slower, seasonal their Hispaniccompetitors whostuckto were operableyearround.Thistrumped direct routes fromSouthAfricathat sea faster,ing. Theirbigger shipscoulduse with better gunsandgreater financialback- In thelate 16thcenturytheDutch arrived Dutch The Fights tosubjugate TernateFights andAmbon grown onSeramandAmbonasfarafieldTanzania, MalaysiaandSriLanka. cleaner. Nutmeg fruitsare popularlocally despite anaromathatismildlyreminiscent ofparquet-floor ingredient withtherave drugecstasy.The dried,discoloured filigree isknownas mace. nutmeg spice,whichwashistoricallyused asahypnoticmedicine–itshares acommonchemical wrapped insurreally brilliant‘flames’ ofscarletfiligree. Whendriedand processedthesenutsyield kenari thrive in slightlyelevated locations nearthesea,especiallywhenshadedbycanopiesoftowering inGrenada thatitfeaturesand isnowsoimportant onthatisland’snationalflag. Nutmegtrees the toothpaste anddistinctive Indonesian andusedinthemanufacture ofchewinggum,perfumes, popular inmulledwineandcooking, Cloves were theancientworld’scure fortoothache,halitosis andsexualdisinterest. Todaythey’re SPICY CENGKEH&PALA Nutmeg Today, bothnutmeg andmaceare seafoodsaucesand liqueurs. usedmostly in fruitcakes, nutmegfruitssplitinhalf uponripeningtorevealThe globular,pale-yellow abrown-blacknut cengkeh trees which themselves nut. produceadeliciousalmond-like (pala) tree, originally native toTernate, Tidore andBacan.Today,however, cloves are also wasonceuniquetotheBandaIslands. Ittoohas‘escaped’ aroundtheworld MALUKU ••History kretek cigarettes. They’re theunopenedflowerbudsof produced cheaply elsewhere. cally irrelevant asits spices couldnowbe decades Maluku wasbecomingeconomi- Within (Malaysia) (SriLanka). andCeylon lings toplantintheircoloniesMalaya outpreciousish smuggled spice-tree seed- fortheMoluccas.TheBrit- spelt disaster was ashortepisode. Butcommerciallyit British occupiedMaluku. Politicallythis aftermath of theFrench the Revolution, A yearlater, the withHollandsuffering wasnationalised. India Company(VOC) independence, some12,000Malukans were American pressure) toacceptIndonesian tussles. OncetheDutch decided(under loyal totheDutch duringtheindependence KNILtroopsinJavathousand hadstayed Netherlands IndiesArmy(KNIL).Several amajorhad been elementintheRoyal the mid-1960s. armed RMSoppositionrumbledonuntil jungles, intheSeram fled Ambon.However by November theRMS‘government’ had lican troopssteadily retook theislandsand (RMS).Indonesianrepub-Maluku Selatan away in1950byproclaimingtheRepublik ern Maluku panicked andtriedtobreak controlled. Predominantly Christiansouth- bemainlyMuslimandJavaneseinevitably as aunifiedsinglerepublic. Thiswould Indonesia washeadingforindependence After WWII itsoonbecameapparent that Independence After Christian Ambonese andKeiChristian Ambonese Islanders

749 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU coexistence, strengthenedcoexistence, by amodelofbeen peacefulChristian-Muslim riots. Ironically,Maluku societyhadlong It rapidlyspilledover intointercommunal Christian busdriver andaMuslimyouth. to explode. members of theother. Thearea wasready the politicalbenefitsof frightening away anced, each religious communitycouldsee the Muslim-Christianratiowasfinelybal- gional powers. EspeciallyinAmbon,where arate provinces, each withaugmented re- more. Maluku wastobesplitintotwosep- hopes of RMSagitators. And there was way ofTimor East mayhave rekindled the incide. Meanwhile theunexpected breaka- happenedtoco- Fitri (endof Ramadan) silence. Ontopof this,Christmas and Idul yearsafter of theSoeharto terror-inspired were nolonger afraidtospeaktheirminds new democraticgovernment, andpeople ments of thearmywere withthe disaffected Indonesia’s economywasintatters, ele- The year1999wasoneof unique tensions. Troubles The ity…at leastuntil1999. after thatthere was negligibleRMSactiv- hijacks there inthemid-1970s.However, culminating intwoMaluku-related train Moluccas’ lived onintheNetherlands, land. Thedream of anindependent ‘South 40,000 of theirdescendantsremain inHol- So theMalukans andtodayaround stayed haveable: itmight ledtotheirmassacre. back toMaluku later proved unaccept- were them RMSsympathisers, sending while tempers asmost cooled.However resettled ‘temporarily’ intheNetherlands 750 from Java localMuslim to ‘protect’ these sail Islamicgroup, set a fundamentalist Jihad,initial victims.In response, Laskar Muslims were widelyperceived tobethe sides. InTobelo (Halmahera) andAmbon, burnt andatrocitiescommitted byboth turbances withvillagers killed, buildings turned tomassacres. brothers were againsteach otherasriots set mosques. Yet inthemadnessof 1999,these each inbuildingchurches othereven and tohelp Christian ‘brothers’ famouslyused predates religious Muslimand affiliations. a uniqueformof inter-village bondingthat The spark was a petty dispute between a The sparkwasapettydispute between Almost every islandsufferedAlmost every somedis- MALUKU ••History pela gandong, duped intothedestructive spiral.Bothsides localswonderhowtheyweresettled, ever Christian andMuslimareas. Withthedust are nowdefactosegregated intodistinct have returned someregions homethough cedented air of optimism.Somerefugees reconstruction fundscreating anunpre- full swing.Theeconomyisboomingwith ings are still visiblebutreconstruction isin remarkably swift.Pockets of wrecked build- Ambon,recovery2004 inKota hasbeen afewAlthough riotsre-erupted during 2001 NewYorkattacks. the 11September ica’s anti-terrorism sabre-rattling following to pressure onIndonesiaaspartof Amer- and leftAmbon.Thiswasprobablythanks Jihadsuddenlydisbandedwhen Laskar Things improved markedly inOctober for mutualrespect anddisarmament. with theMalino IIagreement which called Tempers begantocoolinFebruary 2002 Today Maluku as traitors. threaten negotiators whomtheydenounced Jihadactivistsrushedto were made,Laskar homeless. Whenattempts atreconciliation displaced andhundreds of left thousands of were houses torched, withwholevillages Ambon. Churches, mosquesandthousands furtheroutofever control,especiallyon spiralledRMS sympathisers. Fighting munities, particularlyagainstperceived revengeguised onChristiancom- attacks appeared todegenerate intothinlydis- their‘holywar’soon minorities. However, on ‘theaccident’. sitesrcg.com/ambon haslotsofbackground .org whilewww.web carriesnewsreports visa. up todate, Tokeep www.maluku2000 Maluku whenapplyingforyourIndonesian prudent ( p763 ). Nonethelessyou’d probablybe required ofSeram are forexploringparts eral travel restrictions. The onlypermits still confirm thatthere are nolongeranygen- this istotallyuntrue. Localtouristoffices permit tovisitMaluku.Inourexperience embassies claimthatyouneedaspecial Some websites Indonesian andeven certain REALITIES & WARNINGS TRAVEL MALUKU not to mentionanyplansvisit www.lonelyplanet.com are nowcommonlylabelled ‘theaccident’. with poignantunderstatement thetroubles stirred byoutside thatthe bloodbathwasdeliberatelybelieve www.lonelyplanet.com tween Ambonand Ternate.tween Returning itloopstoBitung (Sulawesi)be- continuing toSurabaya andTanjung Priok. Ternate and Makassar Bau toAmbon,Bau turns viaKupang (Timor). Islands andAmbon. lawesi) toTual(Kei Islands)viatheBanda (Su- link Surabaya,Makassar Bau andBau two weeks PelniSeveral liners stopin Maluku. Every Sea (Kei mapon Islands).See p752 . tions toPapua fromAmbonandLanggur nado (Sulawesi).There are limited connec- Jakarta viaSurabaya,Makassar and/orMa- hubs. Bothhave twice-dailyconnectionsto Ambon andTernate are theregion’s air Air THERE&AWAY GETTING in somecentralandsouthernareas. north Maluku. Christiansformmajorities way tobreak theice. key wordsineach regional tongueisagreat (lingua francaincentralMaluku). Learning form thepidgindialectof Malay Ambonese Indonesiato have nowblendedwithBahasa distinct traditionallanguages, some though 1999. Incredibly theregion hasover 130 ‘real’of whose homeswere those burntin belookingatthemake-domight dwellings arelages ‘traditional’–you thatyousee to folklore. Notallthatched, primitive vil- hunting anticsare graciouslynowrelegated men fromotherMalukans andtheirhead- distinguish Nua-ulu dana-like headscarves wearing tribalgarb.Onlytheirred, ban- ing Papua, peopleinMaluku youwon’tsee interior Butunlike of inneighbour- Seram. communities of Nua-ulustillinhabit the tures are strongest ontheKei Islands.Tribal (fromtransmigrants).Melanesiannese fea- of Bugis(fromSulawesiseafarers) andJava- genes, withmoretuguese recent additions andPor- addedIndian,Arab, Chinese been To Malay andMelanesian precursors have Maluku’s peoplehave very mixed blood. CULTURE Muslims are more numerousinmostof Bukit Siguntang agents provocateurs, MALUKU ••Culture Bukit Siguntang Lambelu and Sinabung Ciremai links and and re- are often potholedand narrow.The only The fewundeveloped. roads thatdoexist Maluku andrelatively ismountainous Bemo& Ojek Bus, Kijang, p752 forpriceandroute details. themapon have 10kgbaggage limits.See you. Thenpayonarrival.Smaller planes try askingahotel tomake abookingfor hit andmiss: callthelocalairlineagent or departure thereturn point.Getting canbe buy onlyone-waytickets booked fromthe the schedules fordays.Youcangenerally one-off charters can(andwill)throwout network, enginetrouble,badweatheror themforthewholelittle planesbetween around Maluku. withonlyfour However ingly impressive webof regional flights Merpati andTriganaAirweave asurpris- Air AROUND GETTING Nggapulu three weeks. arc downtoKupanginTimor onceevery Papua several tween andMaluku portsand Perintisuncomfortable cargo shipsrunbe- mahera) andSanana(SulaIslands).Highly or Manado) runtoTernate, Tobelo(Hal- ‘motor’ boatsfromNorthSulawesi(Bitung vice versa) somewhatirregularly. around Halmahera thenbacktoBitung(or Sangiang monthly loopsandtherelatively small Tatamailau Jakarta andnorthernPapua. between tung andSorongontheirodysseys Non-Pelni vehicular ferries orslow The infamouslyvariable retreats: lightful, yetvery inexpensive, littleMaluku Watch thewaves andunwindatthesede- CHILLOUTSTOP BUDGET Penginapan Lease KotaSaparua Indah, Penginapan Sawai( LisarBahari, p764 ) Penginapan Seroja,Tidore ( p787 ) Vita GuestHouse,Bandaneira( p769 ) Kei SavanaCottages,Ohoidertawun, ( p761) Islands ( p777 ) circlesfromBitungtoTernate bothstopinTernate Bi- between often serve Malukan often portson serve Kelimutu

and

751 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU any tourist route. Ask at relevant harbours smaller intermediate ports thatare wayoff three-weekly loops viaastringof on roughly mind. Bringwaterproofs. Theygenerally run are bigger butnotdesigned withpassengers in hours before departure. Perintis cargo boats toarriveto secureneed many oneyoumight spaces buttickets aren’t alwaysnumbered so have limited sweaty,wooden-board ‘bed’ wooden boatsknownas ASDPferries byuncomfortable orby served bound only).Somemedium-range hopsare to Ambonisitsfortnightly and theonlydirect boatlinkfromTernate services Pelni Boat known as Shorter routes are operated bybemousually more common andcomparatively pricey. overgrown(fancy seven-seater are Toyotas) shared Kijangs mahera andinruralSeram, routes. EspeciallyonHal-Ambon-Seram or are buses long-distance onSeram 752 pleasant waytotravelpleasant iftherainholdsoff. isusuallyverytaxi) reasonable andthemost 255 (M) To Manado 496 (M) MALUKU AIRFARES Makassar (L) 800 via Manado 851(X) 964 (M) 826 (L) Makassar 509-900(L) 850-1451 (MD) Jakarta 838-1600(L) 1337 (M) to Makassar Kota Ternate 175 (M) Namlea Mangole Sanana Kisar PULAU AMBON 136 (M) Ambon Labuha 132 (M) 270 (M) 110 (M) Kota Ternate 113 (M) 1379 (M) (M) 150 1250 (X) 1387 (L) To Jakarta 91 (M) To Manado 460 (Tr) 529 (L) 451 (M) mobil 765 (Tr) 721 (M) (M) 305 50 (M) Galela Weda Kao 226 (M) Daruba (Morotai) 170 (M) 130 (M) . Rentingan Buli 257 (M) within 116 (M) 281 (M) 1254 (Tr) 886 (M) Amahai 576 (M) Wahai Gebe D 724 (M) 825 (Tr) Banda Saumlaki Maluku are patchy Bula via Ambon 1540(Tr) at thetimeofwriting. Quoted fareswerecorrect unless otherwiseindicated. One-way airfaresin'000Rp, Airlines Trigana Air Mandala Merpati Lion Air/Wings Air Express Air Deraya Air motor Lambelu via Sorong 1500 (Tr) Sorong ojek 576 (Tr) At leastdaily Several weekly Langgur Once ortwiceweekly Frequency 110 (M) (motorbike . The latter . Thelatter Larat P AU via Timika 1399 (Tr) via Timika 2255 (Tr) Kaimana (south- To Timika 333 653 (Tr) Dobo (Tr) (MD) (M) (L) (X) (D) if toldthatthere isn’ta boat types:sodon’tbeimmediately putoff veryless villages. Localsuse specificterms for conditions. andrough for uncertainty for departure andalwaysbeprepared details Ambon, the maintown,villages merge into with two great hoops of toKota bay. Close is lushandgently indented mountainous, contrasts, Maluku’s mostprominent island Manageably small yetoffering plentyof PULAU AMBON cheaper thanmulti-enginedpetrolones. poweredsmaller ordiesel boatswillbemuch tering yourownboatisworthconsidering: on major char- market cases days.Inseveral are ing whenseas calmest.Choiceisbetter passengers, usuallyvery earlyinthemorn- generally departwhenthere are sufficient Speedboats canoes). short-hop motorised longboat) ora stillbea might toyourdestination.There engine speedboat) To BauBau, Surabaya; Makassar; To Kupang (Jakarta) Tanjung Priok To Manado MALUKU FERRIES To Bitung Sanana Lambelu Dofa Namlea Speedboats linknearbyislandsandroad- Speedboats Sangiang Lambelu; Ciremai Kisar Siguntang Babang Bukit Lambelu Ambon Tobelo Kota Ternate Siguntang Perintis CargoBoats Bukit Access OnlyBy Saka Dorolonda Buli ketinting Johnson Gebe Amahai Sawai Siguntang; Wahai Ciremai Dorolonda; Bukit Bukit Siguntang Sinabung; Nggapulu Banda Saumlaki or www.lonelyplanet.com (outboard-powered spid Bula lape-lape Note: Kelimutu&Tatamailau Geser are infamouslyvariable (covered multi- Sorong Siguntang; and arenotshown. Bukit Ciremai Car Ferry Londa Jet Boat Speedboat Routes (Selected) Overnight 'Motor' Passenger Ferry Doro Nggapulu; Sinabung; Dorolonda P AU Fak (smaller, (smaller, To Manokwari; Serui; Jayapura Ciremai Kaimana Tual To Timika Dobo Ciremai gems: the Lease, Banda andKei Banda gems: Islands. theLease, yetutterlymost delightful undiscovered ideal hubforvisitingsomeof Indonesia’s Ambon isbackinbusinessandnowthe by oldreports of dangers orcivilunrest: amazinglyswift.Don’tbefooled has been tre of the1999–2002troubles.Butrecovery giously divided,theislandwasepicen- gardens andswayingtropicalfoliage. Reli- alluringflower sparkles brilliantlythrough a longsuburbanribbonbutfurtheroutlight www.lonelyplanet.com a 1817 uprising in the Lease Islands (see Islands(see a 1817uprisingintheLease DespiteAmbon theirspice-tradebase. named thisfort evolve.eventually In1599theDutch re- fortress Ambonwould aroundwhich Kota receptive a toChristianityanddeveloped southmore un-Islamicised less developed, whofoundthe placed bythePortuguese entrepôt. TheTernateans were later dis- asamajor spice-trading oped HituLama Islam totheisland’snorthcoastanddevel- thecivilisingforceof brought The sultans Until 1512AmbonwasruledbyTernate. History To Bitung(Sulawesi) (520km) (700km); Ternate via Namlea(Buru) 1 3 2 PULAU AMBON Seram Pulau Pulau Tiga Siwa LimaMuseum...... Pattimura University(RumahTiga)..... Martha ChristinaTiahahuStatue...... Benteng Amsterdam...... ors fie...... C2 Tourist Office...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Sial Timur Tanjung Lai Asilulu Tanjung Sial Larike Wakasihu AC Ureng Lima Tapi Bau (960km) To Makassarvia Victoria Liliboi PULAU AMBON••History Alang Leihitu Hatu Said andmadeKota

Car Ferry 5 4 3 2 1 Teluk Ambon Pattimura Hollywood Sign C3 C2 C2 B2 Airport Kaitetu B aa utreBe...... D2 Taman LunterseBoer...... Santai BeachHotel...... Hotel Transit...... Hotel TirtaKencana...... Baguala BayResort...... SLEEPING 2 8 Tawiri Hative Besar Latuhalat Dawn Speedboats Hila to PulauSeram Namalatu Laha 11 Teluk Piru 7 Eri 9 Kota Ambon Amahusu Waiame Airlouw Pintu Kota occasional sniping between policeandarmy occasional snipingbetween casional provocations continue,including disturbances were oc- riotsin2004,though improved markedly andthelastsignificant looked During2002things like 1980sBeirut. zones. Bylate 2001,battered Ambon Kota intoMuslimandChristian came polarised in thecitycentre. Islandandcityalike be- torched predominantly businesses Chinese city’s mainmarkets. AJuly1999reprisal with alargely onthe Christianmob assault first wave of cameinJanuary attacks 1999 communal violence. Ambonthe InKota ripped apartbyChristian-Musliminter- atPassowith alaststand village. few months force byIndonesianmilitary movement. Thiswasextinguishedwithina centre of theSouthMalukan independence tecture. In1950Ambonwasbrieflythe most of itsonce-attractive colonialarchi- tensive Alliedbombingwhich destroyed prisoner-of-war camp.Theresult wasex- a Japanese headquarters military and until AmbonbecameWWII, whenKota the boxed text, p761 ), Dutch rulesurvived 5 Wakal Tantui Seri From 1999untilmid-2002,Ambonwas 4 Hunut 10 12miles 20km 0 0 Hitu Lama 9 8 7 6 Kayu Putih Poka Mahia B3 B3 B3 D2 Naku Galala Karpan 1 Mamala 3 Halong TRANSPORT eot oaAbn...... B3 Bemo toKotaAmbon...... Nania Ema Morela Passo Kilang Gunung Sirimau Soya Atas Tanjung B ANDSE Setan Lateri Leitimur (950m) Hukurila Tulehu-Momoking Rutung Batugong Tulehu-Hurnala Leahari (1038m) Salahatu Gunung 10 Toisapu 6 Liang Hutumuri Natsepa Baguala Teluk Hunimua Tulehu Suli Tengah To BandaIslands(220km); Tengah Waai 11 Tial West Papua(820km) D Kei Islands(460km); Pombo Pulau Car FerrytoLease (Pulau Saparna); To Oma(10km); Saparna (50km) Amahai (60km) Islands (40km); (Pulau Haruku) Haruku (20km) (Pulau Haruku) (Pulau Seram) Haruku Laut (60km) Pulau Seram Pulau Nusa Car Ferryto Selat Jet Boatto To Pelauw (30km)

To Kota

(20km) 753 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU BCA Bank Mandiri maximum withdrawalis1,250,000Rp. The bankslisted here have 24-hourATMs; MONEY Aladin Wartel Warnet Worm room Internet Post Office @stindo ACCESSINTERNET Information ens of blaringtheir wares. CDsalesmen life after dusk,withsnacktrolleysanddoz- comescacophonouslyto Babullah Sultan roles asmajor commercialstreets. BusyJl partly bombedout)are recovering their langi, JlSaidPerintah andJlAY Patty (still Mardika Merah. andBatu JlDrSamRatu- marketsnates of from thetraffic-clogged ema- Almost allpublic roadtransportation Orientation its roleastheregional transporthub. quickly healingandthetownhasregained but thescars of the1999–2002 civil warare minimal andarchitecture winsnoprizes are backdrop.Sights lushly mountainous byaperfectemphasised arcof bayandits where, Ambonretains Kota alanguidcharm tropolis. Butcompared to‘real’ citieselse- Maluku’s isadusty,throbbing me- capital By theregion’s dreamy tropicalstandards, % KOTA AMBON paradise. in theirbusylittlesouth-sea from abaddream tofindthemselves back suddenlyawoke everyone It’s asthough optimism andvisibleeconomicresurgence. grippedwithagreat2006 theislandseemed By tropicalweeds. swallowed byinsatiable Tiga, are butthese rapidlybeingrebuilt or bly aroundPattimura University inRumah forces. Someburnt-outruinsremain, nota- 754 Isn’t alwaysopen24hoursdespiteclaimingto be. euros andUS dollars. for sumsover$200and dependentonapproval. dollar ratesthantheother twobankslistedhere, butonly h connection. per hr8000Rp; reliable connection. Sweaty becauseofthepoorair-con,butwithmost 0911 /pop368,000 8am-midnight) Best air-conditioning, variable line. 8am-midnight) Bestair-conditioning,variable (BankCentral Asia;JlSultanHairun 24)Poorratesfor PULAU AMBON••KotaAmbon (Jl AY (Jl Patty; perhr8000Rp; h (Jl Sultan Babullah; per hr6000Rp; SultanBabullah; (Jl (Jl Pantai Mardika) Canoffer betterUS- Pantai Mardika) (Jl (Jl AMSangaji;perhr3500-5000Rp) (Jl 9am-8pm Mon-Sat) Grindingly slow 9am-8pm Mon-Sat)Grindingly (GPO, Jl Raya Pattimura; (GPO,JlRaya h 9am-midnight) money atdecentratesgivenafew phonecalls. whocansometimeschange ex-mariner English-speaking runbyan everything-shop atiny,eccentric Friendly; collector ofalmostanything. collector helper,fixer and anEnglish-speaking Bahri, for Marwizar CENTRE &KARPAN Sights plenty ofadvancenotice. ing EnglishandDutch.Canarrangedivingequipmentgiven speak- ifponderouslyslow-movingtour-guide Experienced Yoh Syaranamual Office Tourist Asmat Souvenir Tour Likes TOURIST INFORMATION Asmat Souvenir BNI h The SOUTHERN SUBURBS Pattimura) Raya (Jl Fatah The town’sbiggest mosque, less than1km. backtotownis War Gravesthendoublingback).Getting way loop(useTantui bemospassingtheCommonwealth bay viewsbutgettinghere byvehiclerequires a4kmone- cheaper boughtfromAbdulalieHotel.Theofficehaslovely ful free brochures butthedecentcitymap(20,000Rp)is Tantui; Parawisata; Dinas p753; (www.indonesia-parrot-project.org). Seram northern to maps. Theycoordinatevery occasionalgroupeco-tours Mon-Sat) StaffspeakEnglishandoffer free, basiccity BCA; samepoorrates. route formore such views. PanoramaStop atthedelightful en Café ojek more accomplishedandworththe7000Rp theboxedcontemporary; see text, p761 ) is statue tina Tiahahu hideous cupied bythearmy.Nearbyisanamusingly Dutch fortress, Sirimau (take Kayu Putihbemos).Themain fromJlglimmer mysteriously whenseen Pattimura)Raya fanciful fair withUFO-shapeddome. Nextdoorthe most collection of regional andcolonial The recently rebuilt more photogenic. The (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Said Perintah 12)Near (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlSaidPerintah 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) -ride ifonlyforthewonderfulviews. Siwa Lima Museum Siwa LimaMuseum (Jl SultanBabullah) (Jl h Pattimura Memorial 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Offers fistfulsofcolour- Offers 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Mesjid Jami Mesjid ( % (Maluku Provincial Tourist Bureau; Map Bureau; Map ProvincialTourist (Maluku hassilver-strut which steeples 310296; JlTulukabessy; ( ( % % has a staid ificonictower.has astaid Benteng Victoria Benteng ( % displays Maluku’s fore- % 349069; Jl Dr Sam Ratulangi) 349069; JlDrSamRatulangi) 349069; Jl Dr Sam Ratulangi) Ask 349069; JlDrSamRatulangi) (a tribute toPattimura’s isamodernconcrete af- 351765; Gang daSilva99) 351765; Gang (Jl Sultan Babullah) SultanBabullah) (Jl Francis Xavier Cathedral Francis Xavier 312300; Jl Jenderal Sudirman, 312300; JlJenderal (Map (Map p753 ; admission3000Rp; www.lonelyplanet.com Maranatha Cathedral Maranatha . The Masjid Raya al- Raya Masjid , remains oc- h Martha Chris- Martha 8.30am-5pm is much (Jl

www.lonelyplanet.com Yos Sudarso Jl Pengeringan Jl 4 6 1 3 2 5 KOTA AMBON Port Namalatu Tirta KencanaHotel (7km); Hindu Temple(4.5km); To SiwaLimaMuseum(4.5km);

Jl Sultan Babullah 50 Sungai Gateway 27 BCA ATM...... Bank Mandiri...... @sindo ...... CAF...... Barokah Bakery...... Pondok WisataListari...... Penginapan Beta...... Hotel Sahabat...... Hotel Nisma...... Hotel Mutiara...... Hotel Manise...... Hotel Amboina...... Hotel Amans...... Amans Inns...... Abdulalie Hotel...... Trikora Monument...... Pattimura Memorial...... Masjid Rayaal-Fatah...... Masjid Jami...... Maranatha Cathedral...... Francis XavierCathedral...... Benteng Victoria...... Yoh Syaranamual...... Wartel Aladin...... Warnet Worm...... Souvenir Asmat...... PT MatrassasAbadi...... Main PostOffice&InternetRoom..... Likes Tour...... BNI Bank...... BCA Bank...... oe rn oa...... D4 Hotel GrandSoya...... INFORMATION EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES 38 20

35 Batu Container

Port 39 Gajah

Ambon AC Jl AM Sangaji AM Jl Teluk

Jl Yos Sudarso 16 31 17

Jl Felly Jl Keranga Jl 10 Jl Dr Sam9 Ratulangi PULAU AMBON••KotaAmbon Market Riyadi Harbour

Jl AY Patty (AmPlaza Mall) Ambon Plaza Slamet Jl Dr Latumenten Jl Kopra 36 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

1 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Jl Ciwangi Jl 51 C3 C2 B5 D5 A5 C4 C5 C5 A6 C5 C5 C5 C3 C3 A6 B6 C4 A5 A6 C4 D6 C4 D4 A6 A5 A5 B5 C5 C4 C5 C5 8

19 Jl Pala Jl

Jl Anthony Rhebok 48

ue oLag...... D2 Buses toTulehuandMasohi Buses toLiang...... C2 Bemos toWaai...... Bemos toTantui,Galala,Passo Hotel AmansRooftopCafé...... (see22) Hidaya Minimarket...... Esteler-21 Kentucky...... Citra Supermarket...... Mandala Airways...... (see23) Lion Air...... (see25) (Seram)...... Buses toHila...... &HtBesar(forAirport)...... Rumah KopiAtoz...... Hotel AmboinaCafé...... (see23) Warungs (Lunchtime)...... Warungs (Evening)...... (see52) Rumah MakanDede'sSeafood.. Rumah MakanAi-Madura...... Restaurant Halim...... Plaza Supermarket...... Mutiara HotelRestaurant...... (see26) TRANSPORT DRINKING

Jl Diponegoro Jl Jl Cempaka Jl Jl Pantai Mardika ὈὈὈ ὈὈ

Jl PH Latumahina Jl Kambuja Jl JL Slamet Riyadi

Jl Said Perintah 37 52 Military Zone Governor’s (Closed) 13 4 0 0 Office Sports 3 Field 53 Jl Wim Reawaru Jl Imam Bonjol 5

45 Jl Dr Setia Budhi Setia Dr Jl Mardika 28 Mardika Jl Panjaitan 42 29

Pasar Jl Sultan Hairun Sultan Jl Jl K Ulupaha 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 Mardika Market 15 23 18 D2 D2 C3 C4 C5 A6 A6 B5 B4 A6 D2 C4 26 Gang Pos 49 40 22 21 Trigana Air(SuitaTravel)...... Terminal Pelita...... Slamet RiyadiPort...... Pelni Terminal...... Pelni Agency...... Merpati...... en fie...... C4 Pelni Office...... Friendship

Jl Benteng Kapaha Market

Jl WR Jl

Jl Jan Paays Jan Jl

7 Mardika Pantai Jl Jl Pattimura Jl 33 47

(Kapahaha) (750m);CommonwealthWar Sup 2

Batu Merah

43 41 25 ratman 6 Market

30 Gang Da Silva Da Gang Jl Pantai Mardika Tourist Office(4km);HotelTransit Jl Ahmad Yani (28km); PattimuraAirport(29km) 46 To TamanPahlawanIndonesia 14 Graves (900m);Galala(3km); 32

Sungai Tomu

Jl Mutiara 34

Jl Kakialy Jl Gang Vila Cenderawasih Jl Jl Tulukabessy

Jl Rijali To CaféPanorama(600m); 45 Atas (6km) To Soya Tiahahu Statue(1km) D

53 52 51 50 49 48 47 Jl Sirimau Jl Martha Christina 24 C5 B4 B4 A5 B4 C6 Office (900m) 0.3 miles

Jl Rijali To Tourist

500 m

755 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU house) section. section. house) across thestreet tothe findavacancy.Forfanroomswalk ever butroomsareexpectations OKifyou can receptionsection’s area canexaggerate your glass inthe‘hotel’panelling andstained mosquitoes. are reasonably neatalbeitwithplentiful therooms ular withlocalpettysalesmen peach paintandlinen featuring daisies or English-speaking owners, lashings of pink- 756 a s/tw withfan60,000/75,000Rp, twwithair-con110,000; tw withfan/air-confrom55,000/90,000Rp; 125,000Rp; fan/air-con from40,000/80,000Rp,withhotwater Abdulalie Hotel BUDGET Sleeping beyond are the rebels duringthe1950sand1960s.Just Malukan killedfighting sian servicemen Heroes isdedicated toIndone- Cemetery) Indonesia Pahlawan district (outboundonly).The graveyardslately maintained intheTantui Passo, twoimmacu- Waaietc)passes Stain, Any bemoheadingnortheast(boundfor NORTHERN SUBURBS prettily flower-decked little continuing fromthetopcarparkleadstoa most inspiringbayviewsandastairway upper rear terrace offers someof Ambon’s ojek considerusingan from theuppersection, the gardens’ornate gateway butasentryis gardens. AirSalobarbemosterminate near steep, lovinglytifully upthrough tended by500mofseparated road snakingbeau- twomainbuildings artefacts. Itcomprises crystal clearwaters.crystal which towatch fishermenbobbingonthe juice 10,000Rp)istheidealplacefrom office enroute. back tothecitycentre passingthetourist nearby policearsenal.Tantui bemosloop vived the riotingin2000which devastated WWII. Remarkably bothcemeteries sur- whodiedin entombing alliedservicemen bayside Penginapan Beta Penginapan Hotel Nisma Hotel About 2kmfurthersouthin ) (10,000Rp)tosave asweatyclimb.The Longterm backpacker with standby PULAU AMBON••KotaAmbon Tirta Kencana Hotel Café Hotel Kencana Tirta a ) Well runandeternally pop- ( ( % % 343246; Jl Sultan Babullah 34&22; 343246; JlSultanBabullah 352057; Jl Sultan Babullah; twwith 352057; JlSultanBabullah; Commonwealth WarGraves (Kapahaha; Indonesian ( % penginapan 353463; JlWimReawaru; Hindu TempleHindu (fresh Taman Makam Taman Makam Amahusu a (lodging ) Wood sirsak sirsak , the . the bignewGovernor’s Office. the bestof three side-by-side optionsfacing fairlybasicit’s Winnie thePooh. Though man 18;dwithfan/air-con100,000/125,000Rp; Ambon’s mostappealing centralhotel. It’s ofcurtain tropicalfoliage, thisis byfar climb up four flights ofclimb upfourflights stairs. a gooddealifyoudon’tmindthesweaty are and bylocalstandards cleanandbright and English. fast andanownerwhospeaksfluentDutch break-communal spaces,complimentary budget option.Ithascomfyrooms,airy isAmbon’smostappealingily homestay yetpeaceful,thiswelcomingfam- Central maybe afree breakfast. togetusually enough ‘discountrates’ and the Tirta Kencana). Minimalbargaining is speakEnglish (exceptat at leastsomestaff tioned, bathroomshave hotshowers and Ambon’s better hotels are allair-condi- MIDRANGE Amahusu bemo. by2km beyondtheSiwaLimaMuseum It’s 7kmsouthwestof thecentre of Ambon, best feature is the open-airwaterfront café. beds andstrongair-con (ifnoviews).The phenomenal bargain with hotwater, new local couplesbutthecottage rooms are a lent baysidehotel attractsmainlyamorous 244,000/336,000Rp; cottager/deluxe/ste 121,000/ Amahusu; 354841; JlRaya, from drabtodreadful. there are halfadozenotherhotels ranging rooms. sure toavoidhelpful. Be thehorrible‘silver’ are delightfully The English-speakingstaff and manyothertop-endtrimmings. TV showers, high-powered air-con, multi lingual bargain-priced ‘gold’roomoffers hot-water singed carpetandafew cockroaches, your uglysister.licised Foracceptingcigarette- building, thisistheHotel Amans’unpub- 150,000/180,000Rp; con 95,000-145,000; mandi60,000/70,000Rp,twwithair- with shared/private rate from228,000/288,000; Pattimura 12;discountedd/tw171,000/216,000Rp, full- Hotel Sahabat Hotel Pondok WisataListari Amans Inns Hotel Tirta Kencana Tirta Hotel Hotel Mutiara Hotel Within three blocksof Mardika market Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com ( % a a 353888; dsilver/gold/balcony130,000/ ( a ( % % ) ) Hiddenbehind the main Thissurprisinglyexcel- ) 352642; Jl Said Perintah 5;tw 352642; JlSaidPerintah 353873; fax 352171; Jl Raya 353873; fax352171; Jl Raya The cheapest rooms a Mp p753; (Map ( www.lonelyplanet.com % ) Behind adainty Behind 355596; JlWRSuprat- % 351867; fax a ) Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com show signsof wear. Rooms are butalready lesstacky slightly pratman; discountedd/twfrom336,000/384,000Rp; 0/400,000Rp; dstandard/executive/ste from250,000/305,00 Ulupaha; discount/full-rate twfrom203,000/290,000; sive roadnoise. attractive suites tend fromoppres- tosuffer are windowlesswhilethemuch more roomsprevails. moststandard However, imalist andasoothingcream colourscheme carpets ascleanwillbeachallenge. ingly cleanbathrooms.Keeping thenew are tointernational withblind- standards before weaving) andlocalfabrics.Rooms produced bydyeingtheindividualthreads framed ikat(clothinwhich thepattern is coming Europeanatmosphere spicedwith cosy, tastefully executed andhasawel- www.lonelyplanet.com Dowdy but cleanlocaleatery with excellent at Terminal Pelita (evenings). and lunchtimes) Babullah andonJlSultan mainlyGang Pos(besidethepostoffice, Merah market, onJlAhmadYani, along Cheap warungsaboundespecially near Batu Eating Transit Hotel Airport with rippedcarpets.Credit cardsaccepted. pressive rooms,manywindowlessandsome top hotel, theManise hassurprisinglyunim- considered Ambon’s Quite undeservedly adore thechintzy décorand are goodvalue. Discounted ‘deluxe rooms’at240,000Rp guess fromthetired-looking corridors. rooms which are vastlybetter thanyou’d they’ve started withtheguesttion. Sensibly Amans isundergoing major reconstruc- Ideally placedforpublictransport,the up thecash. prepared seem miss earlyflights tostump afraidto with dodgyplumbingbutthose ged hotel. overpriced TheTransit issteeply Ambon butjust1.3kmfromthisratherrag- airport isnearlyanhour’sdrive fromKota meals 6,000-12,000Rp; 354492; Jl Pantai Mardika 53A;twfrom200,000Rp; 354492; JlPantai Mardika Hotel Amboina Hotel Hotel Manise Hotel Hotel Amans Hotel Rumah Makan Ai-Madura Ai-Madura Makan Rumah GrandSoya Hotel a ( % ) Receptionisstylishlymin- ( % (Ambon Manise; (Ambon Manise; ( 315095; d275,000Rp; % h ( 354144; fax341054;JlWRSu- % PULAU AMBON••KotaAmbon 355515; fax 355723; Jl Kapitan 355515; fax355723;JlKapitan breakfast, lunch&dinner) 312095; JlCendrawasih20; (Jl Sultan Babullah 34/1; SultanBabullah (Jl faux % a 353888; fax a marble. ) Locals ) The a a ) ) h 12,000-45,000Rp, fruitjuices9000Rp,beer20,000Rp; Great valuedespite un-pricedmenus. gado-gado nasi ikan convivial informal meeting place. convivial informal meeting makecushioned settees forAmbon’smost 25,000Rp; 9pm) waterfront shack. bemos drive past. and afew Western menuoptions.Karpan café withethnicdesigns,fabulousviews meals. cooked seafood beautifully Chinese serves with old-fashioned oyster-shell lampsand favouritelong-standing remains a-tinkle sago-stem wallsandNua-uluartefacts, this h Mon-Sat, 10am-6pmSun) tucky better for halfthepriceat for fastfood,butsimilarfriedchicken tastes pavilion for miles around. occupying theonlytraditional-style house the great cheesebuns( dinner) 2500Rp; AmboinaCafé Hotel Drinking Plaza supermarket Minimarket Hidaya Citra supermarket Bakery Barokah Useful stores: Mardika Merah andBatu are vastmarkets. SELF-CATERING café Amans rooftop Sometimesopensmidday. salad. panied byfive great dips,riceand sauces, yourfish anditarrivesChoose accom- Ambon’sbest place serving unsophisticated brightly Bustling, efficient, Sultan Babullah; meals25,000Rp; Sultan Babullah; h a mains 22,000-55,000Rpplusrice; taurant Café Panorama Café Rumah Kopi Atoz KopiAtoz Rumah Rumah Makan Dede’sSeafood Makan Rumah Halim Restaurant For Western foodtrythequiet breakfast, lunch&dinner) 8am-8pm) 9am-9pm) ) Partially decorated withvarnished or thevery pleasant (Istana Gizi;JlPantai Mardika) . h CAF (meals 22,000-55,000Rp; h (rice and fish set meal)andgood (riceandfish set 8.30am-6pm Mon-Sat) (vegetables withpeanutsauce). 24hr) isAmbon’sbest-knownplace (Jl Raya Pattimura; Raya mealsfrom11,700Rp; (Jl (Jl AMSangaji; (Jl Jazz themesandsomedeep- (Jl Tulukabessy; (Jl (Ambon Plaza Mall, JlYosSudarso; (AmbonPlazaMall, ( roti keju (Jl SultanBabullah) (Jl % (meals 15,000-40,000Rp; ( % (Jl Tulukabessy; coffee from(Jl 351884; Jl CM Tiahahu; mains 351884; JlCMTiahahu; (Jl Kapitan Ulupaha; beers Ulupaha; Kapitan (Jl Open-sidedterrace ) here. 352177; JlSultanHairun; h h Hotel Mutiara Res- Mutiara Hotel h , anultrasimple h Simplecoffee 5pm-10pm Mon-Sat) h 6.30am-6pm) Try Esteler-21 Ken- Esteler-21 breakfast, lunch& dinner Mon-Sat; ikan bakar 8.30am-8.30pm ( % 356188; Jl h Hotel Hotel 7am- 757

. MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU bound Supratman; Sat &Sun) Ulupaha; boina, JlKapitan Saumlaki (Tanimbar Islands, 182,000Rp) sometimes headstoTual (233,000Rp)via (Pulau Buton;205,000Rp). The Bau 262,000Rp, 36to 48hours) andBau head forSurabaya viaMakassar (Sulawesi; Kupang (28hours). Otherwestbound boats changes. arrives at7amduetostopsandtime-zone h cancelling. before departure) and there’s nopenaltyfor till youcollectthetickets (atleastfourhours Bookings are possibleonline:youdon’tpay map on p752 ). theairfares (see hopperflights local weekly Ambon services. Ambon services. butnotyetstarted AdamAir hasproposed mally limited tooil-companyemployees. mai returning viaTernate (115,000Rp). 22 hours) viaNamlea(Buru,56,000Rp) to Bitung(northernSulawesi;172,000Rp, From YosSudarso harbour Pelni BOAT Airport) flight baggage. Their midnight flying), youcanheadtotheairportwithout their ‘Citycheck-in’ (2pmthedaybefore wildly accordingtodemand.Ifyoutrust Manado andbeyondtoTernate. Pricesvary and/orSurabayawithconnectionstosar dailytoJakartahas twoflights viaMakas- Mandala AIR &Away There Getting 758 lands; 177,000Rp). hours) andTual(Kei70,000Rp, seven Is- Papua Islands; (Banda viaBandaneira with Ambon–Ternateday) astheweekly flights day(outTuesday,backWednes- the same direct hoptoTernate. Ironicallythisleaves (Kei to Langgur Islands)andoneweekly thony Rhebok) stop at5pm).SomeEnglish isspoken. travel agency fordomestictickets (bookings Sun &publicholidays) 19; PT Matrassas Abadi PT Matrassas h 8am-7pm) PULAU AMBON••KotaAmbon Merpati and flights to Bula (Seram) are nor- toBula(Seram) flights 8am-noon & 1pm-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pmSat, 8am-noon &1pm-4.30pmMon-Fri, Bukit Siguntang ( flies toJakarta dailyviaMakassar. % h Trigana Air Trigana Bukit Siguntang offers five connections weekly isAmbon’sbest-organised Lion Air 344206; www.mandalaair.com; HotelAm- 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pmSat&Sun) 9am-5pm Mon-Fri, ( % Deraya Air who operate awholewebof 352481; fax353272;JlAhmadYani ( Dorolonda ( h % % 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 342566; Hotel Manise, JlWR 342566; HotelManise, ( 355797; SuitaTravel,JlAn- % link toSurabayavia ( % 311111; JlAY Patty; headeastto Lambelu andthewest- 323802; Pattimura from Kelimutu Jakarta heads Cire- ( opposite ). Passo, use Seram TulehuorHunimuaports Islandsandsouthern totheLease Services (adult/child 55,000/40,000Rp,ninehours). ferry departsdailytoNamlea(Buru)at5pm town (2000Rp,10minutes). to 6pm).FromGalalatake anybemointo minutes, uptofourperhour,from6am then crossbyferry toGalala (1500Rp,eight jetty inRumahTiga (20,000Rp, 15minutes) sometimes faster totake an one hour).Ifferry departures oblige itis Ambon(5000Rp, bemotoKota Ht Besar of therunwayandcontinuebyregular port gate (3000Rp,1km)totheeastend glass-faced of office arebut itstimetables The beingrevised. to Saka(forSawai). ( Slamet Riyadi) (Jl departfrom tions inSeram kets. forjustafew buses destina- However Mardika inMardika Merah andBatu mar- fromavarietyofstart points alongJlPantai Frequent bemosandmostof therare buses BUS &BEMO north of Tantui, theKMP Maluku. Fromtheferry in jetty Sanana (SulaIslands)andfarsoutheast Harbour Riyadi boatsfrom Much lesscomfortable Other boats noon) bemos ( For thecitycentre ultra-frequent LinIII BEMO luggage youcantake an (150,000Rp, 45minutes). Withminimal bemos are sometimescheaper thantaxis Ambon is30kmaroundthebay.Chartered From Pattimura AirportcentralKota TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting sports field. These include5am sports field.These Slamet RiyadiHarbour. commission). Onesuch handyagency faces of manyagencies aroundtheport(minimal again tobuytickets. Alternatively one use head down,aroundthebackthenupstairs and Jl Dr Sam Ratulangi or Jl AYand JlDr SamRatulangi Patty, from Pasar Mardika down JlPantai Mardika % 345507) isopposite thePattimura Memorial: mobils and serve north and east Seram, Seram, northandeast serve , alay-by besidethecentral Mulia Express Express Mulia ) usefully head southwest) usefully Pelni www.lonelyplanet.com ojek ( % ( ojek Danaurana % fromtheair- Terminal Pelita 348219; 341805) tothePoka Jaya Saka h Galala buses buses Slamet car 8am- , quiet ly beneaththegiant Seri ends attheforgotten littlefishing village of the increasingly bumpyroadfinallydead- alimpidbay,ing waves below.Beyond plungingtowardsthecrash- end incliffs perched atopattractive meadows which for ages through chaotic traffic jams. for ages chaotic through traffic main market where vehicles typicallyjostle getting atleast200mawayfromthe on/off Jl YosSudarso. Foranybemorideconsider and Babullah loop backagainviaJlSultan After 2kmtheyonto JlDrLatumenteri. swinging aroundtheTrikoramonument www.lonelyplanet.com Maluku Divers Divers Maluku sibilities. Professional, American-owned terrific some offers Ambon ACTIVITIES Pantai ‘SantaiBeach’Hotel idyllic pay-beach (admission2000Rp)the tor. Around3kmeast,backingalessthan with afew decibelsmore thanhiscompeti- trishaw competingtoblastitscustomers famous forits at on thesea-defences ing southwest of Amahusu.Look fortheamus- scenery isalongthevery accessibleroad Some of Ambon’smostappealingcoastal Southern Leitimur and othervillages beyond. much longer steep footpaths leadtoEma to aquietlyattractive of viewpoint.Aseries bringsyou quick scramblebesidethestatue uit’s Christianisingmissionhere in1546.A statue Francis Xavier strife of 2002.Across theroadatacky being torched duringtheintercommunal church Soya Atas Sirimau slopesofsitting wayuponthehigh AmbontakesKota youto easy An Soya Atas AROUND PULAUAMBON two attractive anonymity.Furthereastarecan maintain parkingsothatamorouscouples curtained with king-sizedbeds,comicaltoiletsand d 150,000Rp; to acrossapassfromLatuhalat road wiggles Namalatu where outriggers anddryingcloves lie Hollywood sign (950m).Theconvincinglyrebuilt ojek a , a‘resort’ of rock-poolsthat’s triptoescapefromtheheatof ) offers rooms sea-facing eight has risen fromtheashesafter has risen ( Pintu Kota % musical becaks painted in giantletters recalls theoriginalJes- 323882; www.unexploredadven PULAU AMBON••AroundPulau Ambon Eri ‘recreation parks’, Mp p753; (Map ketapang . Thereafter the Soya Atas scuba diving , each pedal- % trees. village, Gunung 323109; pos- St than 40m. ifyoucanhandledepths of moreis amarvel hyped butthe geon fish). (superb shoalsof blacksnapperandsur- brilliant lunch stop)and lands and Amahai (Seram). lands andAmahai (Seram). Is- Hurnala forbigger ferries totheLease Island) andSaparua Island.Use Tulehu- toPelauwjetty forspeedboats (Haruku to Haruku village. Use Tulehu-Momoking jetties behindTulehumarket forspeedboats eels). Spotting them supposedly augurs Spotting themsupposedly eels). of theover-busy main roadyeteasytomiss,just300m west action around Namalatu, there’s much more underwater snorkellingrooms). Although ispossibleoff albeitwithsharedvate guesthouse bath- (the companyhasaquietlystylishpri- including equipmentandaccommodation bargaining thisto$110fortwoboat-dives onetravellerever (withoutgroup)reports ongroupsofment rental, based five. How- per person isUS$120plus$30forequip- tions withthree dives. cost Thestandard butalsoofferaboard odysseys one-dayop- 2000Rp, parking 2000Rp) 2000Rp, parking tures.com) if slightly degeneratingif slightly with itsownidyllicbeach isthecomfortable ofimitations pizza. Western andlocalfoodincludingcurious Mp p753; (Map Resort is atWaitatiri busiest. Beyond The market townof Leihitu Eastern 423,000/726,000Rp; deluxe/cottage/ste 363,000/ JlRaya; gualaBayResort.com; 8000Rp, snacksfrom10,000Rp) evening. Theresort’sevening. few outsideevery right minutes tillmid- AmbonwithWaaibemospassingin Kota could make agoodalternative tostaying 17km eastof Ambon,this centralKota tage’ roomsare thebestoption.Although ditionally styledbutfullyequipped‘cot- to have adecentswimmingpool.Thetra- but it’stheonlyhotel onthewholeisland terfront palm-garden. There’s nobeach Waai Tulehu A cheaper accommodationalternative isfamous forits‘lucky’ Mp p753; (Map hasatrioof ports.Use useful the % in Namalatu specialise inlive-in Namalatuspecialise 361366; d150,000Rp; Pinta Kota Hukurila as Pulau Tiga % Natsepa pay-beach . Passo 362717; fax362716;www.Ba ) underwater archway issomewhatover- , set inalovely, set wa- serves good-value serves Waterside Café Waterside Taman Boer Lunterse isoneof Ambon’s (which makes a Tanjung SialTimur a Bulut ) . It’sonthe Baguala Bay (admission (Moray

(juice (juice 759 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU keep, though thetiledroofkeep, though isgetting alittle front forthasauniquelycomplete central anticolonial Ambon.Thefour-sided water- ofsidering itwasoriginallythepowerbase for aDutch fortissomewhatironiccon- tractive is the1649 But thenearest thingtoatouristattraction towestern Seram. service dawn speedboat Lama Hitu smoked fishtooccasionalpassing village sell sleepy stalls ited several though The northcoastispeacefulandlittlevis- Leihitu Northern mercialised Hunimua walk twoblocksinlandtofindthepond. justbeforeoff the‘Margreet Salon’signand Take toamuse. enough aWaaibemo,get matic yetsomehow it’sintriguinglyoff-beat pool. Theexperienceisnotexactlydra- lurk doublesoddlyasthevillage washing pond Theconcreteby feeding themraweggs. outofwill tempt theeels theirdarkrecesses 10,000Rp paidtoawaitinggentleman who good luck.Thecostof thisgoodfortuneis 760 (per hop 2000Rp). Liang buses are(per hop2000Rp).Liangbuses rare. route Ambon-Natsepa-Waai on theKota hours. twotothree departingevery ratu, Seram), jetty forcar-ferries toWaipirit(nearKai- LEASE ISLANDS Passo A spuroff themainLiangroadleadsto Bemos are veryBemos frequent tillmid-evening Pulau Ambon Tulehu-Momoking Tulehu-Hurnala (Jl AirWaysilaka)inwhich theeels (Jl LEASE, SERAM&BURU••Lease Islands LEASE, Speedboat Route Ferry Route Liang Waai which hassomepretty, uncom- Hila has a rather scenic setting anda has aratherscenicsetting Suli Benteng Amsterdam Benteng . ThatHilashouldberenowned beaches Tial Tulehu Hunimua Wae Riang Pombo Pulau andisthedeparture Kailolo Haruku Oma Kabauw Rohomoni inquietlyat- Pelauw Pulau Haruku Aboru Kariu ojeks Ory carp Namaa . Hulaliu the fort. yond theeye-catching Continue onfootforfive minutes be- from Tulehu-Hurnala ( five the9am daysweekly or Passo onPulauAmbon.Additionally, base. SaparuamakesKota themostconvenient ities (bringyourownequipment).Sleepy lages, lovely baysandsnorkelling possibil- a scattering of fascinatingolde-worldevil- calmislandshaveaccessible yetdelightfully ‘leh- Pronounced % ISLANDS LEASE &BURU SERAM LEASE, rare bemo(5000Rp)orby powers didthemoving. cording toalocallegend, supernatural transferred tothepresent site in1664.Ac- nearby GunungWawane,themosquewas Wapaue Mesjid outKaitetu’sseek pretty littlethatch-roofed the fort,thenacrossaschool footballfield, dilapidated. Five minutes’ walkinlandfrom same afternoon. same Itreturns the (Seram). finally WaeRae Putih (nearKulur,Saparua,13,000Rp)and 5000Rp), Pelauw (Haruku, 9000Rp),Ume visits WaeRiang(nearKabauw, Haruku, Pulau Molana Iyanaen Pantai Most access is by speedboat fromTulehu Most accessisbyspeedboat Hila isreached fromHunutbyrelatively Kulur 0931 Ume Putih Charter Only (Seram) (21km) 0 0 To WaeRae Saparua Pia Pulau Haria . Originallybuiltin1414on Booi Ihamahu a Kota Saparua Nolloth -say’, these conveniently these -say’, Mahu Tuhaha Iha Mesjid Besar Mesjid Ullath www.lonelyplanet.com Sirisori Kristen Itawaka % Sirisori Muslim ojek Layur Ouw 0911-361435) Titawai Leinitu To Namanonear Masohi (37km) (30,000Rp). carferry Sila Pulau Nusa tofind Laut Nalahia 12 miles Abubu 20 km Ameth view towards Saparua and Seram. view towardsSaparuaandSeram. beachrow, sandy withsomelovely of sweeps western end of which is lonely roadleadstothevillage of is barely Arelatively worthstoppingtosee. of theportone-wall ruinof land’s othermajor festival. About 300meast a tacky roofed mosque you’ll spotMaluku’s mostimpressive www.lonelyplanet.com Rohomoni buta whopping40,000Rp to lolo. Pelauw bemosrunbetween Rare andKai- AROUND GETTING onTuesdaysorFridays. No service via WaeRiangitdepartsataround 2.30pm. around 11am.ReturningtoTulehu-Hurnala from Pelauw toUmePutih(Kulur)departs Saparua.(3000Rp) toKota The carferry and continueby toHariaspeedboat (Saparua)for100,000Rp From Hulaliuit’srelatively easytocharter a jetty forPelauw (15,000Rp,25minutes). minutes), and fromTulehu-Momoking Haruku andOmavillages (10,000Rp, 15 afternoon) frombehindTulehumarket to leaveSpeedboats whenfull(regularly till THERE&AWAYGETTING row bike-track frombigger and relatively isolated down8kmof nar- flying-fish. Thevillage isquietlyquaint boxed(see text, p777 ) oncatching marking theendof theannualprohibition famous foritsNovember Saparua. TheChristianvillage of Ambon orinlinkingwithPulau tion sovisitsare easiestasdaytripsfrom Pulau Haruku hasnoformalaccommoda- Haruku Pulau Pelauw herself todeath.Herremains were thrownintotheseabuthermemorylingerson. shestarved wasputonashiptoJavabutgrief-stricken daddy’s execution onNusaLaut,Martha heroine ofthesamesagais Pattimura. ChristineTiahahu, whosefathersupported Martha After of MalukuandPattimura even features onIndonesia’s1000Rpbanknotes. Amuch-romanticised assymbolsofanticolonialresistance.since beenimmortalised Todaytheirstatuesdotthewhole Pattimura The rebels (‘bighearted’). were rapidlydefeated anddispatchedtothegallowsbuthave ers butspared asix-year-old Dutchboy.Forthisminor‘mercy’Matulessywaspopularlydubbed briefly managedtogaincontrolofSaparua’sBenteng Duurstede. defend- allthefortress Hekilled In 1817theDutchfacedasmallbutemotionallycharged uprisingledbyThomas Matulessy,who TIAHAHU & PATTIMURA Ojeks Cakalele monument Cakalele , PulauHaruku’s mainvillage, has fromKailolo cost5000Rp to . ojek LEASE, SERAM&BURU••Lease Islands LEASE, (5000Rp)orbemo Pantai Iyanaen celebratingtheis- Sasi Lompafestival Rohomoni New Hoornfort Hulaliu Haruku , anar- thatch- lompa where at the atthe is , 20,000Rp. Haruku. Pelauw toHulaliu unrenovated/renovated d60,000/70,000Rp; Ouw tower. this,theroaddead-endsat Beyond overshadowed church Protestant bythetall boxed pavilion;(meeting see text, p790 ) is to Kristen Sirisori war-batteredA twistinglaneleadsthrough SOUTHEAST SAPARUA urstede swimming beach backed by isapopularsandy themuseum Behind but bringatorch asthere’s inside. nolight plays modelsdepictingPattimura’s exploits, stilldis- abandonedmuseum a seemingly it openoften works!Opposite theentrance When thegate appears locked, justpushing oldcannons. form anddisplayingseveral ering grey concrete showingitsoriginal The outer wallsare renovated withmould- Pattimura boxed in1817(see text, above ). Duurstede Benteng The island’smainvillage hoststhe1676 KOTA SAPARUA SaparuaPulau Jl Belakang) isthesmallbemoterminal. Jl Belakang) building, directly behindwhich (onparallel themarket(eating houses), andaTelkom along JlMukaPasar are afew bay-view amid bougainvillea. Further seats gardenculminatinginapairofpleasant Penginapan Lease Indah LeaseIndah Penginapan but fan-lessrooms.Themore comfortable bowl on an unpowered spindledevice. nation to watch the artistbuildup atypical workshop where 5000Rpisa reasonable do- ask anylocaland you’llusuallybeledtoa ( sempe Ullath , famousforitselegantlysimple ). Noneisobviously onshow,but ( % where thetraditional-style 21099; d50,000Rp) andphotogenic , famouslybesieged by ( % with seven clean withseven 21040; Jl Muka Pasar; 21040; JlMuka Penginapan Du- Penginapan rumah makan Sirisori Muslim Sirisori ojeks a charge ) pottery hasa baileu

761 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU stay lish teacher offers ano-frills family thetwo,friendlylocalEng- Between ruin of 1654Dutch fort overgrown butreasonably wellpreserved est inMaluku (1719).Nearbyisthesmall, life is‘protected’ bya coral gardens300moffshore. Theirmarine churchtiful octagonal andsomevery fine Ameth of toasweep opalescentbay. a staircase Ameth’s brandnew to pay 100,000Rptothevillageneed p777 ) andbefore snorkelling here you’ll 18344222) via picturesque trail fromSilatoAmeth(1¾hours’ walk) has noroadsbutthere’s aneasy-to-follow ( Its attractive Sila Nusa LautPulau are much more forsightseeing. pleasant (8000Rp). very rarely toOuw(5000Rp)andKulur to Haria (5000Rp), (3000Rp)andItawaka Saparuarunoccasionally fromKota Bemos AROUND GETTING At 5amthe THERE&AWAYGETTING lage is Arguably Saparua’smostintriguingvil- NORTHEAST SAPARUA 762 around 7.30am. Masohi 35,000Rp),returning at (Seram, and toamuddybeach atNamanonear runtobothTulehu(Ambon) speedboats 5am (40,000Rp, onehour).FromItawaka, on Ambon,returning ataround9am suite bucket offshore here. There’s excellentsnorkelling supposedly 10 minutes’ walkaroundtheheadland. Penginapan Toholau Indahona beach (village head),isbuildingthefive-room Lease as Itawaka ettes dotthetown.Nollothmerges into of colourfullygaudynewChristianstatu- shaped woodenpulpit.Acuriousselection 1860 church withanextraordinarychalice- impressive traditional % village is the closest toPulauSaparua. village istheclosest 21499; Jl Pendidikan; s/d 50,000/70,000Rp) 21499; JlPendidikan; (House 15;50,000Rp; LEASE, SERAM&BURU••Pulau Seram LEASE, hasanunusualifnotespeciallybeau- , where thevillage chief, knownin leaves SaparuaforPasso Kota Nolloth raja Ojeks mandis (king)ratherthan Ebenhaezer Church Ebenhaezer auNs speedboat Satu Nusa , which retains auniquely costtwicethebemofare but Nalahia andclean squattoilets. h Penginapan Pari Musar Pari Penginapan , where youdescend sasi from 3pm) baileu Benteng Beverwyk Benteng (see boxed (see text, andafine istheold- . Nusa Laut Laut . Nusa kepala desa ( hasen % home- raja 0852 . . 75,000Rp) returning nextmorning. and SilatoPasso onAmbon(50,000Rpto ings direct headfromAmeth speedboats market. MostTuesdaysandFridaymorn- Saparua is tokeep askingaroundatKota boats are moored in Ouw.Yourbesthope andrelativelytough expensive asnosuch canbeveryful boatforthechoppy seas power- finding a suitably however, Laut, at Ameth’seasternmost end. tiny wartel boothfacingthefootballpitch justbeyondthe pinkhouse It’s thebright hahu) Thursdays. operatedays. Ambon-Wahaiflights on and extrapermits. National Park guides forwhich you’llneed masochistic trek into the remote Manusela ing themusuallyrequires apunishingly cockatoos andcolourfulparrotsbutsee- interior hasthickforeststainous alive with wild,moun- on thenortherncoast.Seram’s but thegreatest attractionisTeluk Sawai andmaintownisMasohi-Amahai,capital hunters asrecently asthe1940s. Seram’s sport red bandanaheadgear andwere head- Nua-ulu (‘upper-river’) orAlifuropeople, indigenousof minoritytribes,the Seram’s Thebestknown land’s western mountains. ambiguously located somewhere intheis- amythicalpeak sprang from‘Nunusaku’, thatalllife(Mother Island),believing Ina’Some Malukans ‘Nusa callSeram % PULAU SERAM 100,000Rp, ex-Ameth 150,000Rp). cheapest ifyouheadforOuw(ex-Silafrom from tocharter: other timesyou’llusuallyneed each way),returning aroundlunchtime. At Saparuamarketacross toKota (20,000Rp village shuttle boats fromeachLaut Nusa On WednesdayandSaturdaypublicspeed- THERE&AWAYGETTING hours) run dailyexcept Sundays at8am jet-boatshai, comfortable (75,000Rp, 2½ From Tulehu-Hurnala (Ambon)toAma- Boat From Amahai, Air THERE&AWAYGETTING 0914 flies to Ambon via Banda on Mon- fliestoAmbonviaBanda Nusa Laut that’s easy enough and that’seasyenough Laut Nusa Merpati Merpati www.lonelyplanet.com ( % 22231; Jl Martha Tia- 22231; JlMartha To Nusa Nusa www.lonelyplanet.com of connections andbureaucracy missed – day place to wait outanalmost inevitable there’sthough not much todoit’snotabad Maluku. Itswidestreets are and pleasant, ofcious purpose-built capital Central Namano & Amahai Masohi, Predominantly MuslimMasohi isthespa- northtoSakaforSawai. last service noon. By10amyou’ve the probably missed other destinationsare rare especiallyafter Masohi-Amahai orKijangsto run.Buses are hyper-frequenthub. Bemos onthe Masohi mainroad-transport isSeram’s AROUND GETTING from AmahaiandcontinueMasohi. more totake comfortable thejet-boat to/ have towaitacoupleof it’s hours. Generally Hunimua-Waipirit ferry forwhich youmight the towns.Theyuse to variousSeram durian andsweatoperate Ambon fromKota Cramped, direct perfumedwith buses Bus turning at5am(35,000Rp,1¼hours). (Saparua)ataround7.30am,re-Itawaka fromNamanocrosstoDaily speedboats Kulur, PulauSaparua)five daysweekly. toUmePutih(near hours) andWaeRae times daily(adult/child 11,500/8500Rp,1½ (near Kairatu) toHunimua(Ambon)six Masohi ferries instead. linkWaipirit Car Sundays there’s from amorningspeedboat and 4pm,returning at8amand2pm.On Kelang Pulau Manipa PULAU SERAM Pulau Ambon Pulau Boano Pulau

Tanjung Sial To Bandaneira(210km) Car Ferry Ambon Hunimua Kota Passo Teluk Piru Piru Map (p760) See LeaseIslands LEASE, SERAM&BURU••Pulau Seram LEASE, Waipirit Tulehu Lasahata Kairatu Haruku Elaputih Pulau Wae Rae Teluk Pelauw Latu Taniwel Amahai Kota Saparua Namano Liang Saleman ὈὈ ὈὈ Saparua Saka Pulau Beach Nusa Laut Ora Masohi Waipia Pulau Teluk Sawai Sawai Sepa B ANDSE Arara Gunung (3027m) Yaputih Binaya Tehoru seum anddinkyairportakilometre seum beyond. larger roadturns90degrees, passingthemu- Amahai. Here, justbefore themainport, mano village intopredominantly Christian Na- suburbs, continuingfor6kmthrough becomes JlMartha Tiahahu intheChristian nal/market/Masohi Plazashoppingmall.It headssouthwestfromthetermi- Jl Soulissa remains anobligation. Themainstreet of technically signinginwiththepolicehere ing English-speaking guidecum ing English-speaking than thebanksstrungalongJlSoulissa. are of minimal practical help. are ofminimalpractical they Some staffmembersspeakEnglish,butwhilefriendly Mon-Sat) Nearthesteep-roofed Parawisata; 10,000/10,000Rp; seum The minuscule SIGHTS Telkom SuperOjek Police HQ Office Tourist Maluku Central BRI ATM two. OnSaturdaysaskthetouristoffice. (STM letter, 20,000Rp)takes anhouror ously typingoutyourSuratTanda Melapur passport topoliceheadquarters. Labori- photocopiesof and Bring several yourvisa in Masohi before travelling around Seram. Local policestillrequire touriststoregister INFORMATION Pamale Roho Haya Wahai Kanikeh Hatumete (Jl Geser 2; Geser (Jl Solumena ( (Masohi Plazashopping mall)More convenient (Masohi % (Jl DrSiwabessy; (Jl % ( Taluti Teluk Mosso Manusela Pasahari % 22102; Soahuku; admission/photo-permit admission/photo-permit 22102; Soahuku; 21462; JlImamBonjol; Kobi h National Park 0813 43063684) Max Dopengisanoblig- 0813 43063684)Max 60miles 100km 0 0 Manusela h Bemu 8am-8pm, hours vary) Werinama Sangar Budaya Seram Mu- Sangar BudayaSeram 24hr) Besidethe h Batuasa Bupati ojek 9am-2.30pm Mon-Fri) Bula (Dinas Kebudayan & (DinasKebudayan -driver. Waru Undur office in Masohi. officeinMasohi. h Urung Bupati S ERAM isopposite 8am-2pm Parang Pulau S EA Geser Kita office. Seram

Pulau Laut

763 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU cessible byAmahai-bound bemos. easilyac- bend beyondthepetrolstation: at thesouthernendof Masohi atthefirst Manusela 17;s/dfrom80,000/185,000Rp; Manusela con from100,000/110,000/125,000Rp; s/d/tw withfanfrom45,000/66,000/88,000Rp,air- tial’ (375,000Rp) ones. (230,000Rp) andspace-wasting ‘presiden- pointing, especially thewindowless‘deluxe’ ers. otherrooms are However, very disap- post- king-sized beds and Guns’n’Roses hi’s bestoptionswithhot-water showers, ‘executive’ rooms(265,000Rp)are Maso- Plaza. with cleannewrooms,400meastof Masohi tw from55,000Rp) lacklustre existing accommodation. willimprovethese uponthesomewhat the name,there’s nobeach). Hopefully on theirpatch of mangrove bank (despite two stiltroomsandawaterfront restaurant and limited Englishandplantoconstruct Penginapan Lelemuku Lelemuku Penginapan SLEEPING eared curator NusTamaela playthe of avisitishearingtheaged,highlight one- the bemoroute fromMasohi turnseast).The Amahai’s Ebenhaezerchurch (300mafter 764 Pronounced ‘ee-reh-neh’, the garden. facingalittleornamental cony seats ‘cottages’ (130,000Rp)attherear withbal- quiet andgoodvalue,thebestroomsare 77,000/125,000Rp; of real andartificialfoliage. facingagardenthat’scuriousblend seats are 137,000Rp) are vastlynicerwithrattan the newVIProomsbehind (twinrooms basic andsomewhatjerry-built. However, insouthernMasohifamily house appears 100,000-150,000Rp; undergoing amajor facelift. somewhat marred bylitter butiscurrently headland 1.5kmbeyondAmahaiport.It’s offers beautiful Masohi hilltopradiomast, lane,viaatall ceremonies. Mostinvolve severed heads. Indonesia abouttraditionalNua-ulu/Alifuro (bell-gamelan) ortell storiesineasyBahasa Lounusa Beach Hotel-Restaurant Isabella Hotel-Restaurant Hotel TiaraHotel Penginapan Irene Irene Penginapan An alternative Amahai- little-used For acoolingdip, LEASE, SERAM&BURU••Pulau Seram LEASE, ( % Atfirst glancethisclean,older a a bay views 22354; JlSoulissa;dwithfan/aircon ( % ) Tiara isexcellentvalue ) ( Owners speakDutch % ( 21379; mainroad,Namano;d Pantai Kuako % 21238; Jl Martha Tiahahu; Tiahahu; 21238; JlMartha 21581; Jl Martha Tiahahu; Tiahahu; 21581; JlMartha . ( % 22637; fax21542;Jl a penginapan a isapebbly ) Friendly, ) Thetwo totobuan is Tiahahu; mains15,000-30,000Rp; Tiahahu; gear). Theonlyhotel, the offshore coralgardens(bringyourown There’s sunset. great snorkelling in pear at Pulau Raja wherePulau Raja bats 5.30pm-11pm) local servery. local servery. Penginapan Lelemuku. dishes.It’sjustbeyond andseafood Chinese stilt-house villagestilt-house of Resort( Bay Ambon’s Baguala p759 ). under reconstruction: check fordetails with restaurant of where thestiltbungalowsandpavilion Beach modation but,acrossthebay,tempting human ancestors. Salemanhasnoaccom- the village, bearingthesoulsof supposedly emergeThese atduskfromacave above is famedforflocksof bat-like peaks. andrugged,forestedcally backed bycliffs Teluk Sawai is mostaccessiblescenichighlight Seram’s Seram Northern Masohi market andterminal. There are cheap several warungsaround EATING the road extension toSalemanisfinished, all five hours) bypass Sawaicompletely. Until phone). Masohi–Wahai (155,000Rp, buses are onlysoldfromWahai airfield(notele- Tickets Wahai–Ambon flight for theweekly THERE&AWAYGETTING (Ali’s Place;perperson150,000Rp) 9000Rp; tion butlittlereason tovisit. remains. There’s inexpensive accommoda- cannon-topped moundof stonesisallthat mainDutch fortbutasmall, once Seram’s dinners, assorted snacks andendlesstea. are Costsincludebrilliantfish rather salty. and showers inthebasicensuite bathrooms mat) ably somewhatdamp(bringasleeping perched over thewater, roomsare predict- and doingnothingmuch of anything. Being idyllic forwatching onthebay moonlight walls andvery dimlampsbuttheterrace is base forjunglehikesbase and Rumah Makan Sari Guri Sari Makan Rumah Further roundthebayisphotogenic Madura Warung Makan East ofEast Sawai, lethargic little has marvellous spongy,white sand hasmarvellous h Saleman Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com 7am-11pm) , abeautifulwidebaydramati- Simple but highly regarded Simplebuthighly for , itsmostpicturesque village, Ora BeachHotel Reliable,bargain-value Penginapan Lisar Bahari LisarBahari Penginapan Sawai (kelelawar/uniki) www.lonelyplanet.com has creaky bamboo (Jl Soulissa; meals5000- (Jl lape-lape ( % . It’sapossible h are currently 22809; Jl Martha 22809; JlMartha 10.30am-2pm & Lusiala birds Wahai ridesto was ap- Ora . Sawai toAmbon(235,000Rp,30hours). slowboatrunsfrom anuncomfortable week hoping you’llcharter theirlongboat.Twicea claimotherwise, might Bahari napan Lisar (20,000Rp, 40minutes), thePengi- though at 6.30am(45,000Rp)andSaka7am from Sawai’scentraljettydeparttoWahai 100,000/200,000Rp. Every morningboats costsabout from SakatoOraBeach/Sawai depart around8.30am.Chartering longboats toninehours) all Ambon (125,000Rp,seven (50,000Rp, twohours) to andtwobuses port of access toTeluk Sawaiisbyboatfromthetiny www.lonelyplanet.com impressive drop-offs are undersea vibrantly tempting travel destination.Particularly of 10picturesque islandsisMaluku’s most This tinyandhistoricallyfascinatingcluster % BANDA ISLANDS that don’toffer idealhikingconditions. banks is ratherunderwhelming,withboggy lake mysticalmountain gevity’, ofDespite and‘flowers tales gianteels of lon- ties remain somewhatsuspiciousof visitors. it asortof Indonesiananti-Siberia. Authori- home-in-exile of communistsuspects making large islandwestof Ambonbecamethe Following thepoliticalchaos of 1965,this % PULAU BURU BANDA ISLANDS Run Pulau Run 0910 0913 Neilaka Pulau Saka . Fromhere KijangstoMasohi B ANDSE BANDAISLANDS••History Pulau Ai Ambon (180km) Revenge Benteng Ai Village To Kota

Speedboat Danau Rana Danau Rana

Gunung Api Kelly Plantation Speedboat Pulau Benteng Hollandia Gunung (666m)

Api

Karaka Pulau Ferry Pelni Lonthoir Balakan entirely toyourself. Hurry–thiscan’tlast! you’ll have wonderfulislandsalmost these of theworld’stoptouristspots.Yet fornow beone more might accessible,theBandas tropical MtFuji(GunungApi).Were they turesque crescents aroundapocket-sized (thegreat nutmegisland)curlinpic- Besar andPulauBanda Bandaneira) the capital the centralmainislands,PulauNeira(with picture-postcarddeveloped beaches. And Hatta, AiandNeilakaeach have utterly un- offering superlative snorkelling. Outlying plastered withmulticoloured coralgardens ‘contract’ tokeep themquiet. Nobody took armed, some sincetheDutchHowever, were dangerously nonsense. nopoly, thenotionwaslaughable demandingatrademo- So whentheystarted trinketsand useless of mere novelty value. to trade,justknives, impracticalwoollens strange barbarianshadnofoodstuffs These in1512,thentheDutch from1599. tuguese wrong whentheEuropeansarrived, thePor- togo up todobusiness.Thingsstarted Javanese andBugismerchants whoqueued ily tradedforspiceswiththeArab,Chinese, cloth andallnecessitiesof life couldbeeas- labour wasvirtuallyunknownhere. Food, sothedrudgery ofminimal effort manual Producing nutmeg takes knowledge but boxedgreat globaldemand(see text, p749 ). plied alltheworld’squalitynutmeg,thenin Islandssup- In the15thcentury,Banda History Pantai Lautaka Banree Bandaneira Biao Walang Pantai Malole Airport Mangko Batu Tanah Rata Pulau Neira To Tual(KeiIslands,240km); School Fak (Papua,320km) Groot Walang orang kaya Spansibi 6miles 10km 0 0 Banda Besar Pulau Kumber Batu Kapal Ranang Selamon Pulau Syahrir Pantai Lanutu (Pisang) Waer Concordia Benteng (Tanjung Cengkeh) (elders) signeda Karnofol Pulau Hatta Kampung

Lama Baru

765 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU Hatta sites isphenomenal.Coralgardensoff reef life: thechoice of pristinesnorkelling and soft coralsteeming withmulticoloured shallow-water drop-offs seas, Crystal-clear SNORKELLING &DIVING Activities calm sincethen. they remain. Theislandshave entirely been where the ChristianminorityfledtoSeram the ‘last at leastfive were killedatWalangincluding of violencewhenchurches were burntand largely ignored bytheJapanese. dents, andduringWWIItheislandswere exile forbetter-behaved, anti-Dutch dissi- wasaplaceofthe 1930sBandaneira genteel have asprofitablenever asitmight By been. agement meantthatthemonopolywas years, butcorruptionandgrossmisman- andAi. Besar mostly onBanda wereNearly 70plantations established, They becameknownas exclusively forthecompanyatfixed prices. nently ontheislandsandproducespices vided withslaves, perma- buthadtosettle The odd-ball Dutch applicantswere pro- applications forlandgrantsintheBandas. wouldaccept and announcedthattheVOC to theKei Islands. escaped Just a fewnese. hundred survivors ordering thevirtualgenocide of theBanda- IndiaCompany),reactedEast in1621by new governor (Dutch general of theVOC locals. Jan Pieterszoon theruthless Coen, to enforcetheirmythicalmonopolyonthe tive unsuccessfully English,whiletryingever withthedeliberately provoca-cat andmouse selves byforce,thedominantDutch played Pulau RunandAi.Entrenching them- find theEnglishmerrilytradingnutmegin a few years later theywere back,furiousto their shipsandwere promptlyforgotten. But TheDutch disappearedit atallseriously. in 766 the Dutch word and boatman.Even infrontof right those ning andabsolutely justifychartering aboat 10,000/10,000Rp perday), MutiaraGuest- ing, rent fins/snorkels ( toguests:Vita p769 ; includingthefollow- homestays, Bandaneira village In April1999there wasabriefflare-up foralmost200This system survived returned (nowJakarta)Coen toBatavia , eastern BANDA ISLANDS••Pulau Neira&Bandaneira (onPulauAi)are magnificent. Some perkenier Banda Besar perk ’, WimdeBroeke. Mostof (‘ground’or‘garden’). and perkeniers, Run are stun- from Pulau Pulau Ai the northcoastof Neilaka of thebestplacesare white sand have anATM andwon’tchangemoney. BRI Bank piah fromAmbon. p769 ) butplayitsafe andbringampleru- dollars cash(trytheMutiaraGuesthouse, canexchangesometimes guesthouses US desk. There’s intown; onlytheBRIBank which doublesastheMerpati reservations much more fromtheRumahBudaya. costs 75,000Rpfromsomesouvenir shops, Indonesian Banda tually. Forgreat historicalbackground,read (VCD): ithopestohave internet accesseven- basic islandmapandasouvenir video-CD ers. Delfika( p769 ) gives itsguestsafree, havehouses helpfulEnglish-speakingown- There’s guest- butseveral notourist office Information jam. becak countasatraffic flower-filled streets are soquietthattwo Thesleepy, stillstanding. colonial houses charmingly friendlyplacewithmanylate- isa them downagain.TodayBandaneira Gunung Api’sbillowsof volcanicashburnt mansions –andtorebuild time themevery bours tobuildandfurnishtheirspacious lifestyle andcompetingwiththeirneigh- rupted aEuropean themselves maintaining the Dutch era, thetownsfolkvirtuallybank- das’ mainportandadministrative centre. In Little theBan- hasalwaysbeen Bandaneira PULAU NEIRA&BANDANEIRA near Besar There are beaches onthesouthcoastof Banda SWIMMING lessly to admire the gently attractive old isidealforwanderingaim- Bandaneira Sights Telkom office Dinky. Fri) Post office can impede swimming at low tide. can impedeswimmingatlowtide. dive andhasrelatively aged equipment. tion butcharges US$90toUS$110perdouble Maulana onlydivingopera- istheBandas’ Hotel Bandaneira’s Delfika 25,000/25,000Rp). and ( p769; 15,000/15,000Rp) (p769; house There are wartel includingone several (beware of currents) andespecially (Bank Raykat Indonesia; JlKujali)Itdoesn’t (Bank Raykat ( h Lonthoir (Jl Asidiqin; (Jl 8am-12.30pm Mon-Thu, 8am-11pm Hatta byWillardAHanna. It , butforsuperbstretches h though shallow coral shallowcoral though www.lonelyplanet.com 24hr) Modern. Ai , tiny Pulau Pulau Gunung Api. colourswatch changing thesunset over lovely tojustgazeatthecloudscapesand droppedcasuallyatrandom.It’s as though count upthehistoriccannonsthatstilllie villas, pondervariousmoulderingruinsand www.lonelyplanet.com Verhoeven TheDutch retaliated himself. some 40Dutch ‘negotiators’ including thattheyambushedandexecutedincensed were so violent hostilities.TheBandanese local islandleaders andtriggered aspiralof This wasagainstthemostexpress wishesof in1529. tions abandonedbythePortuguese the buildingof In 1608,Dutch AdmiralVerhoeven ordered FORTRESSES 4 1 3 2 BANDANEIRA INFORMATION otOfc...... B3 Post Office...... Wartel...... (see 35) Telkom...... BRI Bank...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES r eisHue(o ua uaaky. B1 Mrs Feni’sHouse(forRumah Budayakey).. Syahrir’s Residence...... Rumah Budaya...... Mesjid Hatta-Syahrir...... Mesjid Assidiqin...... Mangunkusumo's Residence...... Makatita Hall...... King WillemIIIBust...... Istana Mini...... Hatta’s House...... Derelict Church...... Chinese Temple...... Captain Cole’sResidence...... Benteng Nassau...... Benteng Belgica...... 20 34 29 32 Gateway

Jl Pasar AC 27

35 Arcade Benteng Nassau Benteng Pasar 1

Jl Pelabuhan (Jl Maulana) Shopping 24 28 BANDAISLANDS••Pulau Neira&Bandaneira 3 2 1 Port D1 A3 8 31 7 Jl Gereja Tua (Jl Ratu Liliselo) 21 30 18

Gateway Jl Syahrir Jl 22 Court Tennis 6 15 onfounda- 17 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 19 9 8 7 6 5 4 16 B2 B2 B2 C1 D3 C3 C3 C3 C3 B3 B2 B2 B3 B2 B 23 5 Ὀ Ὀ Kora Kora SLEEPING odkWst aaai.....A2 Pondok WisataMatahari...... Vita GuestHouse...... Rosmina...... Pondok WisataFlorida...... Pondok WisataFlamboyan...... Penginapan Gamalama...... Mutiara Guesthouse...... Laguna Inn...... Hotel Maulana...... Delfika 2...... Delfika...... 2 Airstrip (200m);Airport ὇὇὇ ὇὇὇ ὇὇὇ via Runway(700m) 4 To TopEndof

Jl Kujali for Fort Tickets Cemetery Chinese Well &Canon Benteng Belgica Belgica Benteng three years later bythemore commanding lowland positionandhadtobeaugmented population. Bandanese ress followedbythevirtualgenocide of the quartering of 44 in 1621withtheinfamousbeheadingand ment. Thus in 1796 it caused quite ascandal ment. Thusin1796itcaused signed towithstand Englishnaval bombard- armed villager-intruders, were clearlyde- the relatively of easytask keeping outlightly non-deflecting bastions,over-engineered for fort inclassicVauban style. Themassive can- Both’s native Flanders, it’safive-pointed star forGovernor Pieter Named Belgica General built atmassive onthehillabove. expense Memorial Ironically, thefortwasinanindefensible ὈὈ ὈὈ 14 36 12 9 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19

Kora ὇὇὇ ὇὇὇ ὇὇὇ Jl Dr Pehatta Dr Jl A3 A3 D2 D3 A3 B2 B1 B1 A3 B2

Jl Hatta Jl Syahrir Cemetery Christian 11 0 0 ept...... A3 Merpati...... TRANSPORT EATING Pelni Office...... Jetty forPulauRun...... Jetty forPulauBandaBesar...... Jetty forPulauAi...... Saung Kurang...... Namasawar...... (admission by‘donation’20,000Rp)

Jl Dewarnai orang kaya 10 Ὀ Ὀ 25

Jl Asidiqin

Jl Pondok Jl Jl. Pendidikan Jl. withinthefort- 26 3 D ὇὇὇ ὇὇὇ 0.1 miles 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 Cemetery Muslim To Airport C3 A3 A2 A2 B2 B2 200 m (900m) 767 13

, MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU in thelate 1930s. thatheran behind isthelittleschoolhouse modest bedstillhasitsmosquitonetsand neatly foldedsuitare inthecupboard,his appealing. Hisdistinctive and spectacles 768 1810. Thiswasjustafter they’dhandedit in mander whorecaptured Belgica Benteng lodgingsofposed theBritishMarine com- est, but ofa few mementoes onlyspecialistinter- is empty. task. Donationsaretask. appropriate. Indonesiaisuptothe suming yourBahasa stories of caretakers, theseptuagenarian as- fun of avisitishearingthefascinatinglife cess atall(knockandhope!)much of the Ifyoumanage togainac- mini-museums. buildings have restored, been afew hosting historicallysignificantDutch-eraSeveral HISTORIC HOUSES courtyard. arch ontheleftfromcentralsecond the upperramparts(great views)take the tensively restored inthe1990s.Toreach wasex- overgrown, Belgica butBenteng remains Nassau largelyinto ruin.Benteng it (albeitbriefly)withoutfiringashot. in HollandwhentheBritsmanaged toseize idence boxed(see text, below ), the key; openinghours are byarrangement. who lives about200mfurthernorth,keeps tique mini-cannonsbythedozen.Mrs Feni tos have Englishcaptionsandthere are an- of theluridpaintings,mapsandpho- Several 10,000Rp) The From the1860sbothfortresses lapsed Of three early-20th-century‘exilehouses’ Cole’sResidence Captain later becameprime minister. ernment thatemerged from itasWWIIended.Hattabecamethe nationalvicepresident. Syahrir inthepro-Japanese withSoekarno puppet regimeHatta worked andinthefirstnationalistgov- dragged themback toJavavainlyhopingforhelpinresisting theadvancingJapanese. Instead, minded youths,thusinspiringawhole generationofanticolonialfollowers. In 1942theDutch bysuchincongruities,thepairsetaboutorganising aschool forindependence- Unperturbed insizablemansions.accept agenerousstipendallowingthem tolive inconsiderablecomfort transferred tothelaid-backparadiseof BandaIslands. Stillunrepentant, theywere forcedto guished inthemalarialhellholeofPapua’s Boven Digulprison.Then theywere mysteriously Until 1936Indonesiananti-Dutchnationalist leaders Mohammed Hatta andSultan lan- Syahrir HATTA &SYAHRIR BANDA ISLANDS••Pulau Neira&Bandaneira (Jl Kujali) (Jl houses Bandaneira’s main museum. mainmuseum. Bandaneira’s houses Rumah Budaya Rumah Hatta’s House Syahrir’s Residence Syahrir’s has thegrandestporticobut (Jl Hatta) (Jl (Jl Gereja Tua) Gereja (Jl (Jl Gereja Tua; Gereja (Jl admission Mangunkusumo’s Res- Mangunkusumo’s ismuchmore (Jl Gereja Tua) Gereja (Jl isthesup- has Mini tothepublic. Closed back totheDutch having grabbeditin1796! qin cemeteries are ranged around ChristianandMuslim Chinese, Separate plenty of WWIIyarnstospin. sions. Lively caretaker Paman has Bahalwan forspecialocca- Itisstillused cial events. andwas thefocusoftables colonial-eraso- Soc’), which snooker onceboasted seven site of theformerHarmonie Club(aka‘the the side-garden. of Dutch KingWillemIIIrustsquietlyin locked. medal-spangledbust Ahaughty, Dutch governors.Bandas’ It’susuallyun- Activities Activities old exile. There’s alsoararely 300-year- used, and SyahrirontheirarrivalfromPapuan mansion thatfirst accommodated Hatta was converted intoamosquefromthe Hatta-Syahrir Mesjid themainportiseye-catching Behind RELIGIOUS BUILDINGS bungalow on Syahrir (Pisang) all Banda’s allBanda’s bungalow onSyahrir(Pisang) onAiandadormant Apart fromhomestays Sleeping north coast,anhour’sstrollfromtown. just off village, off theeastern endof the airstrip and gardens atthesouthernendof Tanah Rata best).ThereBanda’s are coral somepleasant has Bandaneira but perilouslyderelict 1852 Tua) The grand but eerily empty1820s The grandbuteerily Also emptyis intheMerdeka area. withanantiquetomb-stonedfloor. (Jl Kujali) (Jl Chinese Temple Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Pantai Malole wasalater residence forthe snorkelling Makatita Hall Makatita . Somelocalsclaimthis (Jl Pelabuhan) (Jl , abeach ontheisland’s www.lonelyplanet.com (although itisn’t (although andaquaint church (Jl Kujali) (Jl Mesjid Assidi- Mesjid (Jl Gereja Gereja (Jl on the Istana Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com enquire at Delfika. best all-roundviewpoints.Whenunstaffed, quiet roof terrace offers oneof Bandaneira’s volcano-view (bestfromroom101).The mandis quent cupsof breakfast. tea andalight bigger rooms.Pricesusuallyincludefre- 10,000Rp to20,000Rpextraforviewsor 10,000Rp,whileyoucanexpecttopay off knock popularplacesmight it.Less to use con (where available) shouldyouchoose Typically addaround40,000Rpforair and 75,000Rpforadouble(bothwithfan). at60,000Rpforasingleroom standardised priceshererooms. Homestay are roughly dozen familyhomesoffer simplebutclean a Over accommodation isinBandaneira. www.lonelyplanet.com cooking. jambu Fairly ordinaryroomsaroundacentral out acrossthewater towardsGunungApi. Three of lacklustre theslightly rooms look communal kitchen andfridge. rentals atcompetitive rates. There’s auseful owner, isvery obliging andcanarrange boat (20,000Rp).Alan,theEnglish-speaking beer admiring theconeof GunungApiover acold wonderfulwoodenjettyarea whose isidealfor roomsfaceawaterfront garden comfortable old ceramics andlamps.Guest roomshave atmospherically ageing old homeisfullof pillars. yond somegratuitous tree-effect concrete pearls. Bicyclerental is40,000Rpperday. English-speaking owner‘Abba’ alsosells of Enthusiastic museum localcollectables. aspicegardenandveritablefish-tank, an artificialwaterfall, aluridlycolourful but thecuriousmelange includesparrots, suggest nouveau riche suburbanAmerica, sically styledwoodenfurniture. Elements tiara hassuperb-value newroomsandclas- a courtyard garden. Bahri speaksEnglish. courtyard garden.Bahri cently renovated alovely off andaccessed bags of atmosphere, mostroomsare re- anold-worldsittingroomwiththrough Delfika Delfika Vita GuestHouse Vita Penginapan Gamalama Penginapan Pondok WisataFlamboyan Mutiara Guesthouse Mutiara Pondok WisataFlorida Delfika 2 Delfika Pondok WisataMatahari ) Functional,relatively large roomsbe- tree, butrenowned forgoodhome of which twohave of glimpses ( % ( % 21027; Jl Gereja Tua;21027; JlGereja 21127) ( % Fourneatroomswith BANDAISLANDS••Pulau Neira&Bandaneira ( % 21332; JlPasar; ( % ( 21344; % 21086; JlHatta) ( ( % % 21053; Jl Gereja Tua;21053; JlGereja a 21233; JlSyahrir) a 21050; JlPasar) ) TheMu- ) a Entered ) Four Four This Namasawar makan SaungKurang makan portandmarket.from Bandaneira’s taste like mildlyastringent grapes. gur Delfika Delfika shack serving decent shack serving and underlit. antique bedsteads butare somewhatbasic Vita GuestHouse Vita and better bananapancakes (7500Rp).Only icecream(7500Rp), disappointing (10,000Rp) (normally to guests only). (normally toguestsonly). luxe/ste US$50/60/75; Merpati Merpati AIR &Away There Getting genuine localsnacks. ‘antiques’, pearls,contrived artefacts and asmallvarietyofsell souvenirs, postcards, souvenir shopsonJlPelabuhanSeveral Shopping kenari vendors driednutmegfruitslicesand sell Especiallywhenshipsaresauce. inport, kenari specialitieslike with stuffed Banda eggplant ingredients). Thisisthebestwaytotaste cally 20,000Rpto30,000Rpaccording deals orcookdinnerbyarrangement (typi- offer homestays inclusive full-boardSeveral Eating 15,000Rp) tax for fundamentally similarrooms. forfundamentally tax be abletobargain themdowntoUS$25plus shares similarprosandconsbutyoumight Maulana’s cheaper annex onJlPelabuhan, show signsof rustandwear. Inn,the Laguna bathroomshot water (uniqueinBanda), be regularly there washedandalthough is vators). windowsdon’tappearto However, Top-floor suites have thebestviews(noele- palmsandshaggy between lovely veranda overlooking thewaterfront palacehotel isits this pseudo-colonial-style daneira’s cute little airporttobothAmbon ‘Bob’ speaksratherfrenetic English. yard behindhasgreat potential. Manager theunkemptsmall ifcleanrooms,though Half adozeneateries lieabone’sthrow Rosmina Hotel Maulana Hotel fruit,which looklike blackolives but -almond paste orfishinnutmeg-fruit -almond cakes. InDecembertry (Jl Gereja Tua) Gereja (Jl hasgoodfoodandthenicestdécor. ( % ( (Jl Pelabuhan; gado-gado 10,000Rp, nasi ayam 10,000Rp,nasiayam Pelabuhan; gado-gado (Jl % 21060; JlPelabuhan) 21145; JlKujali) (Jl Pasar) (Jl ( % serves seasonal fruit juices fruitjuices seasonal serves a (Jl Pasar; meals5000Rp) (Jl 21022; fax21024;standard/de- ) nasi ikan Thestrongpointof appears to serve beer beer appears toserve Rather basicwith Rather fliesfrom Ban- ketapang at lunchtime. is a basic isabasic trees. Rumah Rumah

ang- 769 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU 770 orange sea squirts.Good forsnorkellingorange sea coral gardens, hometolurid purple-and- necessary. pany hikers: reassuring, notstrictly though (from 50,000Rp)are prepared toaccom- possibility of poisonousgasvents. Guides ier routes existbutare duetothe ‘closed’ somehalfwayforyour return.stashing Eas- drinking water thanyouexpecttoneed, scree. loose frighteningly Take much more ingly arduousandinvolves ascrambleup route (around90minutes up)issurpris- views,butthe‘recommended’some sunrise ing intruders. to bespookilyaccurate omensof approach- Api’s historicaleruptionshave often proved filled theskywithashfordays.Gunung people, destroyedover and 300houses Its mostrecent eruptionin1988killedthree anyone attempting tofarmitsfertile slopes. athreatbeen Lonthoirand toBandaneira, little 666m volcanohasalways This devilish PULAU GUNUNGAPI The islandiswalkablysmallbut Around Getting three every roughly weeks. Seram inconvenient Mini. locationnearIstana Pelni’s BOAT cancelled. aware sometimesgets thattheflight you. Be tobookfor ahead oraskyourguesthouse isinawartel. office Bookwell Bandaneira onMondays.The and Amahai(Seram) Mon-Sat) Surabaya, missing Bau Bau andMakassar. Bau Surabaya, missingBau then loopssouthviaKupang(Timor) to return toAmbonbutthe hours) andPapua. Onthewaybackboth continue toTual(Kei Islands; 96,000Rp,11 hours). Both and Ambon(70,000Rp,seven (Sulawesi) Bau 268,000Rp, 47hours) viaBau rive fromMakassar atBandaneira (from pick-ups. rent offer free bicyclesandseveral airport ( Beach 5000Rp totheairportor15,000RpMalole and becakssave sweatat2000Rpperhop, Around Gunung Api are attractive several The volcanocanbeclimbedforawe- crosstosoutheastern Perintis cargo ships The BANDA ISLANDS••Pulau GunungApi occupiesapicturesque ifbizarrely Pelni office ojek Ciremai only).Acoupleof guesthouses and ( % 21122; JlKujali; Bukit Siguntang Bukit Siguntang h 8am-1pm ojeks ar- over thenutmeggrove. tressed Plantation Kelly ridge-top pasta1884Dutch grave towards boats. Alternatively continuewestalongthe baydotted sandy withfishinga pleasant to a newlyconcreted pathdescendssteeply masholah here you’llpassadinkygreen-and-white hilltop. Walkingwestalongtheridge from ing 1743earthquake, itcovered mostof the in theIndies.Untilshattered byadevastat- was onceoneof thebiggest Dutch fortresses is from views,themostidyllic beautiful glimpsed lushtropicalfoliage. top through Ofseveral steeply layered fromwaterfront toridge- mainvillage.the island’ssleepy Lonthoiris climbing footpaths leadswiftlyto to petcassowary)to acomicalifscraggy Ojeks duringthe1999troubles. murderous attack a nutmeg-drying barnsare allthatsurvived enier short-day charter withvariousstops. shouldcostfrom50,000Rpper Bandaneira chief of outrigger beach. from Amotorised and areas littlePulauKaraka’s off handker- are thesubmerged north-coastlava flows Groot Waling east of thejetty,deBroeke family’s ellers herstudents.Around1km tomeet English teacher iskeen trav- forvolunteer 15 minutes) where theschool’s friendly Walang Boats shuttleregularly to fromBandaneira Walang, BiaoandLonthoir bitas charming.every of nutmeg. It’smore hillythanNeiraand historicalsource was themostimportant The largest islandof thegroup, Besar Banda pop 6000 PULAU BANDABESAR is fronted by Bandaneira. by boat.Charters are often cheapest from lamon. Pointsbeyond are onlyaccessible path atKumber andpeters outafter Se- The Biao–Walangroadbecomes a narrow BandaBesar Eastern Banree Pantai Balakan plantation house. However, itsold However, house. plantation (5000Rp)runvia (tocharter 3000Rp,or15,000Rp, kenari Benteng Hollandia Benteng (mosque),hiddenbehindwhich . Fromhere andridge- coastal estate was the last intact wasthelastintact estate Waer trees stilltowerprotectively . Here centuries-old,but- Benteng Concordia Benteng village on theeastcoast, (aka Laerkoey Beach), Beach), (akaLaerkoey www.lonelyplanet.com . Builtin1624,this Biao village (home , anunre- Lonthoir perk- , Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com tact. tact. with three of itsfourcornerbastionsin- constructed butimpressive fortress star www.lonelyplanet.com 300,000/600,000Rp). Smaller boatsare too boat perdayfrom (diesel/petrol Bandaneira chartering covered a stable, craft from toshareanyone else thecost, it’sworth village. Eventiny Lama ifyoucan’t find cal drop-offs anywhere sits mere metres off the mosteye-boggling, coral-crusted verti- beaches liningitsnortherncoast.Oneof coral holesandutterly splendidwhite-sand da’s clearest waters andrichest reefs, with no facilitieswhatever. Yet Hatta hasBan- Today there are with twosmallsettlements aflagmerelyraised toenrage theDutch. Courthope where eccentric EnglishCaptain historical relevance wasacomicalepisode lated islandhadnonutmeg.Thusitsonly Formerly knownasRozengain,thisiso- pop 800 PULAU HATTA disease. formations lookmore like aKlingonskin tle overexciting. Someof itspurple‘coral’ heavy currents make divingarounditalit- look alittlelike ashipwrecked hulk,but Nearby ards thankstoextensive anchor scarring. stand- elevated unexceptional byBanda’s the snorkelling here which, whilegood,is views towardsGunungApiare better than bay onthesouthwestern coast.Thesunset undercut‘walls’andasinglesandy sheer, This chunk of uplifted limestonehasalmost pop 40 PULAU SYAHRIR (PISANG) notworthaspecialjourney. ing, though beach stopshouldyoubepass- is apleasant wards theisland’sdiveable northeastern tip poorer thanatHatta orAi. thevisibilityissomewhatsharks, though snorkellers very life, rich includingreef sea list foramultistopdayof snorkelling. ontoyourwish iseasytotack stop inPisang from 100,000Rp(40minutes), a though guesthouse. arrangement forlonger Ask stays. atyour beprepareddormant butmight toopenby a magicaldo-nothinggetaway. It’scurrently lea-draped cottage complexthatcouldoffer Homestay Mailena A chartered costs fromBandaneira boat Karnofol Batu Kapal (akaTanjung offers Cengkeh) (‘ship rock’) does indeed indeed (‘shiprock’)does isasimple,bougainvil- BANDA ISLANDS •• Pulau Syahrir (Pisang) BANDAISLANDS••Pulau Syahrir Pantai Lanutu to- turn right, pastthe turn right, route, including Pisang andKarnofol.route, includingPisang Charters stopsen willusuallyallowseveral ofslow orvulnerable incase badweather. the their humiliatingdefeat theprevious year. thirsty Dutch conquerors in‘revenge’ for tured in1616 andrenamed bytheblood- Originally builtbytheEnglish,itwascap- four-pointed fortress star December forthe a pairof champion has no springs and all needs arehas nosprings andallneeds provided beveryPlease careful Ai notto waste water: prices are perperson including three meals. None of have thesixhomestays signs.All Sleeping &Eating underwhelming 1875 50m uptoJlPelabuhan. the Turnlefttosee From themainjettyaconcrete pathleads Sights &Activities lated theislandwithslaves andprisoners. massacred orhadfled.TheDutch repopu- turned almostalltheAiislanders hadbeen Whentheyre- toSeram. Brits slopedoff bribed,theduplicitous Pulau Run.Suitably andsovereigntynominal tradingrights in After alittlechat theDutch offered theBrits invited his Dutch opponent foracupof tea. lish commanderchanged Instead he tactics. after afew volleysof cannonfire theEng- prepared todefend theirAicomrades.But appearedfleet inthenickof timeapparently to make arevenge AsmallBritish attack. year later thehumiliated Dutch prepared inflictingsome200casualties.Aattack, tonished Dutch withanunexpected counter- TheislandersDutch attack. stunnedtheas- agents trainedlocalfighters toresist a1615 Itwashererustic homestays. thatEnglish a flipper’sflapfromattractive beaches and with pristinecoralandgreat drop-offs just Accessible Ai (‘Ay’)hasbrilliant snorkelling pop 1000 PULAU AI perken graveyard Alittleinlandisaruinous in Banda. point offers someof thebestsnorkelling about 50moffshore opposite this roughly the island.Astepped underwater drop-off, Just beyondare afew remnant wallsof Welvaren plantationhouse Welvaren oncecovered almost one-thirdof . Pertandingan kora boats Mesjid NurAy Mesjid Matalenco Gateway Matalenco Benteng Revenge Benteng , whose nutmeg , whose , tofindthe races.Or used each used Dutch and 771

. MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU speaking young owner and excellent food. speaking youngownerandexcellentfood. withanenthusiasticEnglish- a newhouse, above onebed. covered yard.Toyplaneandmachine gun withsharedlow house squattoiletinthe sibly snorkelling thedeeper-water drop-off The mainattraction here isdiving orpos- pop 1000 PULAU RUN(RHUN) boat 200,000/300,000Rp,90/50minutes). daneira you’llhave tocharter (diesel/petrol 1pm. Ifyouwanttodoadaytrip 10.30amand between turn fromBandaneira 6amand 7am.Theyre-departing between one hour)leave Aidaily when full,generally Two orthree passengerlongboats(10,000Rp, &Away There Getting 1 Revenge Pondok WisataWelvaren restaurants here. neira whensuppliesrunout.There are no watertransporting purchased fromBanda- by collectingrainwater, orbylaboriously 772 functioning wartel window. wartel functioning Pondok WisataWeltvreden family atmosphere of somehomestays. has aprivate rainwater-shower. the Lacks clean, tiledfloors andoneroomthateven optionwith ginally Ai’smostcomfortable 1 2 AI VILLAGE Penginapan Dahalia Penginapan Pondok WisataArdy Revenge 2 Revenge Other options: 6 Graveyard BANDA ISLANDS •• Pulau Run (Rhun) BANDA ISLANDS••Pulau Run(Rhun) Dutch 5 SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Revenge 2...... Revenge 1...... Pondok WisataWelvaren...... Pondok WisataWeltvreden...... Penginapan Dahalia...... Walls ofFormerWelvarenPlantationHouse..... Metalenco Gateway...... Mesjid NurAy...... Benteng Revenge...... odkWst ry...... B1 Pondok WisataArdy...... B1 Kora Boats...... ὆὆ (75,000Rp)Creaky. 9 A

(Jl Pelabuhan; 75,000Rp) (Jl Jl Tengah Jl 11 Pelabuhan Jl 10 1 0 0 Homestay House (Jl Patalima; 100,000Rp) (Jl 3 (75,000Rp) Unfinished (75,000Rp)Behindtherarely 8 (75,000Rp)Nearthejetty. Jetty Pinkandyel-

Two rooms in Tworoomsin

4 Jl Patalima Jl B 7 from 0.1 miles 11 10 Shop 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 2 A1 A1 A1 B1 A1 A1 B1 A1 A1 200 m Mar- Ban- tan –notabaddeal,asitturnedout. tan American island.ThatislandwasManhat- North land in1667forathenequallyuseless land, which theyfinallyswappedwithHol- lish withaneconomicallyworthlessscrapof systematically destroyed.ThatlefttheEng- during which allof Run’snutmegtrees were after even the1621Dutchtained atrocities, Somehow Britishsovereignty wasmain- themostreasonableeven offers toleave. a preposterously refusing futilelaststand, (now Hatta), puthonourabove deathin theDutchwho hadtaunted onRozengain Courthope, eccentricCaptain The same where theybecameincreasingly besieged. fort onthetiny,waterless isletof Neilaka, ing postonRunandbuiltan‘impregnable’ English initiallyrushedtodefend theirtrad- picture-perfect isletof Neilaka. ternatively beach yourself brieflyonthe northwestern coast(accessbyboat).Al- which theisland’s runs 70mto150moff reach NeilakaandRun’sbestdrop-offs. aboatanywayto You’llneed Bandaneira. from Ai(from250,000Rpperday)oreven in Runyou’re better offchartering aboat sincethere’sHowever, noaccommodation returningto Bandaneira, aroundnoon. (15,000Rp, twohours) runningfromRun Most morningsthere’s asinglepublicboat THERE&AWAYGETTING currents there are treacherous. kelling isbetter thenorthern point,but off safest from theeastern shore, whilesnor- thicket intheislet’s centre. Swimming is coral pebbleshidden withinapandanus left of theEnglishfortare afew scattered arounditin10minutes.saunter Allthat’s picturesque Some of encircles finestwhite sand Banda’s Neilaka Pulau muddy scramble). Rumalatur asthesteps degenerate intoa the topof JlEldorado(which becomesJl treestamarind ataprobablecastlesite at but there are the niceviews frombetween No identifiablehistoricbuildingsremain backed byvine-drapedlimestonecliffs. network of steps andfloralconcrete paths Today Run village isanappealinglittle Run Village After the1616Dutch ravaging of Ai,the Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Neilaka , anislesosmallyoucan www.lonelyplanet.com a singleunit.Accommodationisavailable respectively), they’re linked byabridge into islands (PulauKei Kecil andPulauDullah Pelni they’re port).Although onseparate gur (withtheairport)andTual thetwintownsofAccess isthrough Lang- ism, theyremain thetouristradar. wayoff andcompletepitality lackof commercial- whoadorethose theislands’genuine hos- most under-rated gems. Fortunately for make the Kei Islandsoneof Indonesia’s dinary ifmostlyinvisibleculturaltraditions beachesStunning white-sand andextraor- % KEI ISLANDS&BEYOND www.lonelyplanet.com To AruIslands(80km); Ambon (275km) Papua (240km); Banda Islands(170km); KEI ISLANDS

0916

Wadiun Tanjung

Tayando Islands Ngur Bloat Panjang Ohoiderdusun Pasir Ohoidertawun Ngur Bloat Ohoililar Cottages Tanimbar Kei Losmen Coaster B AND Pulau Ta Pulau Kus S EA Petroglyphs 0 0 Pulau Ut KEIISLANDS&BEYOND••Tual &Langgur Pulau Ur Cottages Pulau Savana Ut Pulau Utir Ohoider Dunuwahan Atas Loon Pasir Panjang Bukit Masbait Kelanit Pulau Manir Ngur Bloat Ohoidertawun Letman Ohoililar Kolser Pulau Pulau Fa-ir Ugur Selayar See Enlargement Ohoidertutu Namar Langgur Airport Tetoat Ohoidertom Pulau Duroa Fa-ir Ngilngof Ngadi Dullah Laut Causeway Half–Built Debut Ohoinol 6 miles Dian 10 km Letvuan Taar Evu Kei Kecil Tual Ngadi Leebetawi Dullah Yatvav Pulau Danar Disuk Langgur means (very) beautiful. language that localscallNuhuYut.IntheuniqueKei a bigger, more attractively rugged island inElatonPulauKei could alsostay Besar, in either,plusonacoupleof beaches. You minaret balancedonapileof dishes.Tual’s pointlookslikeat Tual’shighest awhite across toPulauFa-ir. The and asmallraised island withnarrowlanes,somestilthouses atmospheric quarter is neither hasanyreal Tual’smost sights. enough, Islands facilities.Whilepleasant TUAL &LANGGUR twintownsholdalmostalltheKeiThese Satehan Tual Ibra Serbat Pantai Samawi Wain Baru Tamadan Ohoitel Abeean Revav Dullah Pulau Difur 0 0 Feer bokbok Nerong Selat Pantai Daftel S ERAM Lerehoilin Tamngil Pulau Kelapa Wetuar Kilwat Karkarit meansgood. Weduar Ohoiwait Wer Fravav Ngurdu Bombay Soinrat graveyard Watsin Waur Elat Kyonbawa Yamtel Un Tower Ohoiwirin Fako Kei Besar Hanarun (li) withviews Pulau Hollat Reyahru Banda Eli Yamtimur (notUN) , asemi- Kilwair 30 km Wair 20 miles

773 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU by apairof 30,000Rp) Jl Pattimura. quiet drearyer thanseveral alternatives on pies. It’snotespecially friendlybutis office besidePasar Ohoijang. Notownmapsasyet. passingly informativebrochures fromasweatygovernment Vicky(male)dispenses glossy, English-speaking Friendly, Sudirman; Losmen Amelia TUAL See p777 forbeachside options. Sleeping Wartel office Tourist Telkom Computer Ronevan Post office BRI Bank BNI Bank Information Soekarno-Hatta) (Jl Agung bustling centre isthearea aroundthe modern to atraditionaldesign,whilethesimilarly bell towershapedlike aspaceship. den awayinasteeplydescendingbackalley. 11,000Rp; currency exchange;24-hourATM. h 774 h gles grabbingbog-eyedfish. Mon-Sat) of BandaEli. one another at times of shortage. Howeverone anotherattimesofshortage. marriagebetween much more awkwardfor origin. somebelieve Infact, that and highlyexpensive ceremonial minicannon.These are supposedlyof16th-centuryPortuguese numbers are relatively tiny. price. This agroommustpayin toincest. akin castes andtherule’snosweatformajoritywhobelongtomiddle islandersshouldmarrywithintheircaste. ratherawkward.Kei life There partner are onlythree cultureKei isvibrantanddistinctive (see‘SasiSavvy’boxed text, p777 findinga), butcanmake KEI CULTURE &MARRIAGE 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) Goodratesandtheonlyreliable 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) ATM8am-3pm Mon-Fri) butnoexchange. KEI ISLANDS&BEYOND••Tual &Langgur As withotherMalukuislands,a Not surprisinglythere are quite afew frustrated bachelors. Once a potential partner has been found, the next hurdleisthethornyquestionofbride- hasbeenfound,thenext Once apotential partner (Jl HotelLanggur)Internetduetoopensoon. (Jl (Jl Pattimura) (Jl (Jl Cempaka; Cempaka; (Jl Cleanestof therock-bottom chea- h h (Bank Raykat Indonesia; Jl Jenderal Sudirman; Indonesia;JlJenderal (BankRaykat (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Jenderal Sudirman; (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlJenderal Anugerah Church Anugerah (Jl Pahlawan Revolusi; Revolusi; Pahlawan (Jl 8am-10pm Mon-Sat)Internetaccess;hid- 7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat, 7.30am-noon Fri) 7.30am-2.30pm Mon-Sat,7.30am-noonFri) (DinasParawisata; Lusiap monuments isastylishnewmosquebuilt . Tidy Langgur isbracketed. Tidy Langgur ( h ( % % 24hr) 21387; JlFidnang Armau; s 21371; JlDrLeimana; perhr (Jl Soekarno-Hatta) (Jl melmel % h Mesjid Muharjirin Muharjirin Mesjid 24063; Jl Jenderal 24063; JlJenderal : concrete ea- 7am-2pm (topcaste) or lela lela pela are beingquietlyandprofitablyproducedbythesmithies ( system links pairs of villages into a virtual familytohelp system linkspairsofvillagesintoavirtual Mesjid Mesjid zad-zad hasa ). A iri (who were traditionally their servants) whose (whowere traditionallytheirservants) from 100,000Rp; great beds,ifmismatched sheets. air-con. Deluxe rooms(137,000Rp)have Rooms at93,500Rphave older,lessefficient ers ontothefloorof spraystraight thetoilet. show- good valueandsparklingcleanthough air-con 100,000/80,000Rp; mon balcony. There’s aharbourviewfromtherear, com- spring mattresses andprivate mini- fresh forthepricerange withcomfortable Somewhat crampedbutunusually clean and Losmen Bahtera LANGGUR tresses lessso. Floors areseed. cleanbutwallsandmat- tohaveveranda, to butseems goneslightly ting stillhasarockingchair onitsupper inaquietsuburbanset- grown homestay 137,500Rp; with fan55,000Rp;tw&dshower,toiletair-con93,500- ting roomupstairs. are kingsize. There’s andsit- apooltable VCD playerandgoodair-con. Somebeds toilet/ rapidly expandinghotel. Theattached ring colours addlife tothedécorof this with fan/air-con93,500Rp/165,000; and theatmosphere morose. is eerily has horror-movie splotches of living damp thehigh-ceilingedHowever, uppercorridor able withtoilet, lela Penginapan Asnolia Asnolia Penginapan Penginapan LindaMas Penginapan Rosemgem Charly Penginapan isn’tasumofmoneybutdistinctive mandi Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com a pela ) This smartly well-kept place is Thissmartlywell-kept placeis issmallbuteach roomhasa ( a % familiesisatabooconsidered ( % ) mandi 21775; Jl Merdeka 50;dwith/without 21775; JlMerdeka Vibrantifsometimesjar- 21973; Jl Kayu Hitam; d55,000Rp) Hitam; 21973; JlKayu ( a % ( % andgoodnewbeds. ( ) 22106; Jl Mayor Abdullah; tw tw Abdullah; 22106; JlMayor www.lonelyplanet.com % Roomsare accept- 21923; JlYosSudarso;d renren 21271; Jl A Rhebok; tw 21271; JlARhebok; a group.It’s ) This over- mandis . www.lonelyplanet.com Panjang (12km) To Pasir Pasir Panjang(11km) Ohoidertawun (10km); To BukitMasbait(6km); 4 6 1 3 2 5 TUAL &LANGGUR Airport Pulau Fa-ir

Langgur Jl. Soekarno-Hatta Jl. Stadium

To Debut(11km)

AC Jl Hotel Langgur Hotel Jl 7 27 New Church Langgur Pasar 8 Hospital KEIISLANDS&BEYOND••Tual &Langgur

Jl Telaver 14 To Sateham(8km)

Jl Jenderal Sudirman 11 13 Jl Telaver 1 21 33 Village Boat Port 32 Fa-ir Small 5 Bank Maluku Jl Cempaka Mesjid Kyonbawa B 6 Jl Pahlawan Revolusi Mesjid Agung Ohoijang Ὀ Ὀ 29 Pasar 30 Kyonbawa

2 Armau

3 Tower Clock Jl Jenderal Fidnang Jl 20 15 Masrun Pasar Surdiman 10 26 Bridge Project 31 Unfinished ὇ ὇

9 22 Jl Pattimura Jl 25

28 17

16 34 Sudarso Yos Jl

Jl Dr Laimena 23 Jl Mayor Abdullah 18 Jl Ahmad Yani Village Taar 4

Jl Balubun 0 0 Tual Residence Bupati

12 Jl A Rhebok A Jl Communication Tower Clock Watdek Jetty/BoatstoPulau Kei B1 Rare MobilstoNgurBloat/Pasir Rahmat Jayamatra(Merpati Agent).. ASDP FerryPortforAru& TRANSPORT SHOPPING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Besar...... Trigana Air...... Panjang...... Port Office...... Pelni Port...... Pelni Office...... Mobils toSouthernKeiKecil...... Mitra Jaya(PelniAgent)...... Bemos toDullah...... TanimbarIslands...... Cendrawasih Souvenirs...... Padang Saiyo...... Jimbaran Seafood...... Rosemgem...... Penginapan LindaMas...... Penginapan Charly...... Penginapan Asnolia...... Losmen Bahtera...... Losmen Amelia...... Hotel Vilia...... Hotel Dragon...... Un Tower...... Mesjid Muharjirin...... Lusiap Monuments...... Graveyard...... Anugerah Church...... Wartel...... Tourist Office...... Telkom...... Ronevan Computer...... Post Office...... BRI Bank...... BNI Bank...... Tower To Pelangi(2km); Difur (17km)

19 Jl Gajah Mada Gajah Jl Bupati Office D 0.5 miles 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

1 km

775 C3 B3 B4 B1 B1 C2 A6 B3 B1 B1 C2 B3 B3 B3 D2 C1 C1 B3 B2 A6 B4 C2 B3 B3 B2 A3 A6 B4 B3 C1 B3 B3 B4 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU a mandi/shower/hot shower150,000/200,000/250,000Rp; 16,000-22,000Rp, beer16,000Rp; 10pm) ordering an live musicfromaround 9pm. Considerpre- andlocalmenuoptions plus pseudo-Thai on theDullahroad.There are Chinese, what shouldbeapond3kmnorth of Tual sided barnof aplacesitonstiltsabove Tual’s bestrestaurant, thiscuriousopen- 176,000/171,000-198,000Rp; bathroom148,000- 110,000/122,000Rp, withprivate deral Sudirman154;s/twwithshared bathroom almost aroundtheclock. spicedprecookedhighly dishesavailable mains 15,000-20,000Rp; restaurants. Amir Tamher) of localpearls. purveyors ‘souvenir’ shopsareSeveral predominantly Shopping mainstay their diningareas are uninspired. Thelocal in-roomas foodbutthisisbestserved nese Hotels ViliaandDragoncookgoodChi- appearnearthemainbridge stalls atnight. huddle nearTual’sPasar Masrun andfood JlJenderal Sudirman,morealong Langgur’s unremarkable warungsareSeveral strung Eating breakfast. include cially infront-facing rooms.Rates sleepers, espe- disturblight might noise others feeble sothey’re worthtesting. Road have air-con units:someare powerfulbut no toiletpaperortopsheet). Allrooms wardrobe, towels,soapandshampoo(but are spacious andwellequippedwithdesk, super-clean andfaultlesslyobliging.Rooms the Dragon is with English-speakingstaff, but lesspersonable. the topfloor. It’squieter thantheDragon grove viewsare fromtheshared balconyon 776 27,000Rp; atmosphere. décorlacks thesimple,bright order though Jimbaran Seafood Jimbaran Seafood Dragon Hotel Padang Saiyo Cendrawasih Souvenirs Cendrawasih Hotel Vilia Hotel Pelangi ) Cleanandairy,thishotel’s bestman- Good Chinese-style foodcooked GoodChinese-style to KEI ISLANDS&BEYOND••Tual &Langgur h enbal One such shop;run byadelight- ( % 7am-midnight) ojek ( % 22802; mains17,500-37,500Rp,beer (cassava) rarely appears in ( toget homeatnight. % 21878; JlTelaver 1;dortwwith ( % h ( % 21951; Jl Jenderal Sudirman;21951; JlJenderal 21812; fax22082;JlJen- 8am-5am) a Often considered 22620; Jl Cempaka; mains 22620; JlCempaka; ( % ) h Theonlyhotel 22608; JlMohammad 10am-3pm &4.30- Tempting but cargo- shippingroutes askatthe Saumlaki (Tanimbar Islands). Fridays toDobo(Aru)andMondays departs frombehind Pasar Masrun on Langgur, PelniLanggur, agencies include both continuetoFak-Fak inPapua. In neira (128,000Rp,10hours). Eastbound Ambon (177,000Rp,18hours) viaBanda- Bukit Siguntang ( Pelni BOAT beyond Satehan. anewairportisplanned12kmsouth ever with quite extraordinaryfrequency. How- along which bemosshuttletoTual(2000Rp) mainstreet, JlJenderalLanggur’s Sudirman, The airportisamere 300mstrollfrom AIR &Away There Getting Jenderal Sudirman toTual,many wind- they form avirtualconveyer belt alongJl (2000Rpperhop)are socommon Bemos Around Getting there’s apick-uppointfor PasarMasrun. Ohoijang AtLanggur’s only) leave fromnearTual’s clogged Pasar (Sunday fairly frequent) andDifurBeach forDullah(3000Rp, Disuk (5000Rp).Bemos Destin ations includeDebut(3000Rp)and erate nearPasar fromastation Langgur. ( Bemos BEMO (MOBIL)&OJEK ( gage limitisjust10kg. Makassar, returning onWednesdays.Bag- Ternate, Manado, Luwukandultimately continuestoTuesday theAmbonflight views of Tayando enroute. andBanda On (875,000Rp, 1½hours) offering beautiful toAmbon ings includingfive weekly flights Jayamatra; paka; paka; word of English. ful gentleman fromAruwhospeakstheodd weekly toAmbonandDobo (Aru). weekly an impractically rare. totake It’smuch wiser Bloat (forPasir Panjang) butdepartures are % % For details ofFor details the complex Perintis An uncomfortable overnightAn uncomfortable car-ferry ojek 22392; Jl Jenderal Sudirman; 22392; JlJenderal 22475) h ( % Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com (15,000Rp,25minutes). 8am-4pm Mon-Sat) mobils % . 22520; JlPattimura; 21376; JlFidnang Armau) ) forsouthernKei Kecil op- and Trigana Air Trigana has several localrout- hasseveral Ciremai www.lonelyplanet.com Merpati h h mobils 8am-4pm Mon-Sat) ( 8am-2pm) % linkTualto fliesthrice (Agent Rahmat (Agent Rahmat 22780; JlCem- Mitra Jaya Mitra port office port toNgur liners . for similarrates. www.lonelyplanet.com path continues to a stairway that leadsup path continues toastairway mended four-room traveller retreat. The Savana recom- Cottages, ahighly passes thebeachfrontthrough coconutgrove harmoniously.Afootpath mosque coexist adzes. AnelfinElimChurch andpyr amidal with outcanoes in thepalmshade carving flatatlowtide.white Craftsmensit sand alovelysurveys baythat becomesavast The charming village of OHOIDERTAWUN man justbeyondKelanit village. from anunmarked toLet- passontheroad centurion. Accessupsteps takes 10minutes the strikinglyAsian features of theRoman various scenesfromthecrucifixion.Notice topping aglobeandtower,surroundedby dominated byanopen-armedChriststatue grimage It’s site especiallyforCatholics. pil- Easter pointisanimportant highest With great viewsover theisland’s Langgur, BUKIT MASBAIT Kecil Kei Northern PULAU KEIKECIL&DULLAH the Anugerah church. rumnas’ bemosdivert tothearea around Vilia andterminate atPasar Langgur. ‘Pe- bemospassHotel from Tual,‘Langgur’ ing aroundviatheUnTower. Southbound Dragon can organise self-drive Dragon canorganise self-drive is remarkably goodvalue. FolksatHotel per hour(15,000Rp)orday(50,000Rp) Ojeks voodoo-esque beliefs, beautifullydescribedinLyallWatson’sbook voodoo-esque Call knowledge’,Malukuexperiencesmanyhiddenundercurrents it‘magic’ ofalmost or‘earth SASI SAVVY become auniqueversion oftheprotection racket. to thegovernment The 21st-century couldn’tgettowork. officessoworkers authorities paidfora walk across. The result wasabonanzaforboatmen.This sillysituationlasted monthstillthe bridge, theonlyroadlinkbetweentwotowns. Allbemotrafficstopped.Nobodydared to weapon. Duringlate 2003,traditionallandownersdecidedtoputa breeding season.However, recently Islandershave Kei beenusing veryworked welltoprevent thetheftofcoconutsortoensure thatfisharen’t caughtduringthe superstition. rich inpowerful the groupwithitsthreeKei castes, itsgun-for-dowry customsanditsholytrees isparticularly would dare tobreak a andpreventprotect property trespass. Physically theonlybarrierisa There’s beliefintheideaof widespread Malukan cost5000Rpperhopbutrenting KEI ISLANDS & BEYOND •• Pulau Kei Kecil &Pulau Dullah Kecil KEIISLANDS&BEYOND••Pulau Kei sasi sasi removal madea ceremony. jokers Other forfear ofunknown‘effects’. Forcountlessgenerations Ohoidertawun ojek -bikes their origin baffles archaeologists. their originbaffles designs looknew,manyare antiqueand some Although painted on thecliff-faces. offind aseries red andorange bones. Andafter around25minutes you’ll human somecontaining limestone cliffs, streams youpasssmallcaves cutinthe the bottomof thesteps. Splashingthrough can strike frombeside outacrossthesand village.to OhoiderAtas Butatlowtideyou 43083856; d100,000Rp) Sleeping on request. of Kei social life. Mosquito netsavailable planations tosome of thebizarre intricacies a varietyof interesting excursions and ex- land, English-speaking ownerGerson offers (dinner 25,000Rp).Whennotaway inHol- four-table caféwithtinklingwind-chimes the shared bathrooms.There’s little asweet balconychairswith rattan andtowelsfor double-bedded cottage-style roomscome this wonderfulplace’ssimplecharms. Airy guests whoare frequently by mesmerised magicon toworkanintangible it seems to enforcepeaceorbindrelationships. And beside theSavana Cottages hasthepower thataparticularholytreeLocals believe casuarinas. sighing the hammockbetween orswingingfrom sipping anice-coldbeer the tideretreating while inthemoonlight moods of nature, theswoopingcurlewsand beat Savana Cottages. Watch thechanging ity, few budgetinIndonesiacan guesthouses Savana Cottages sasi as a ‘prohibition’ – a kind of‘spell’to asa‘prohibition’–kind Gifts ofUnexpectedThings sasi sasi janur Forpure narcoticseren- sasi asacunningeconomic acrosstheaccessroute ontheTual-Langgur palm frond.Butfew ( % sasi seemstohave SMS only0813 sasi petroglyphs have . And

777 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU spot thanks toitsartificial splashingpool an unexpectedly popular weekend picnic Evu and lotsof butterflies. Theroadendsat a pairof cave pools withice-blue water right leadsdownstepsright to anunmarkedand Letvuan, tracktothe impressive roadcontinuestothe from which arough From Kecil Southern Kei (tw/apt 75,000/200,000Rp) oke shacks,twooffering accommodation. village) are ahandfulof kara- Saturday-night 400m northof NgurBloat (akaPasir Panjang except atweekends. Amidthepalmsaround beauty, thebeach isalmostentirely deserted Yetdelectation. despite thebrochure-cover across itobliginglyforyourphotographic dery itfeels like flour. Coconutpalmscurve is The Kei Islands’mostfamoustouristdraw PASIR PANJANG 778 through the through modation you’llhave toarrange abed 2,000,000Rp!) andwithnoformal accom- next morning(unlessyoucharter ataround of alltheislands.There’s nowaybacktill imbar Kei cross to Debut, dailyspeedboats rooms (150,000Rp). sometimes rent outoneof theirdishevelled the owners willcookforyouonrequest and 25,000Rp) beyond Ohoililarvillage. beach’s reputedly haunted northend,700m main junctioninNgurBloatvillage. Evlyn isnearthe Dresubun house whose rickety terrace. Keys are available from thewavescan hearbutnotsee fromthe have here). mosquito nets(essential You There are private aged mattresses. bigger butoff-puttingly Two have narrownewbeds,theotherhave scalloped double bed,bigsittingroomandcurious with new apartmentinaswish newhouse ing roomswithalovely porch plusabrand yond, theunmarked Pedro inOhoililarvillage. Letsoin Justbe- Bloat Pasir Panjang About 4kmsouthof Dian Debutbetween The basicbutmore reputable There’s niceraccommodationatthe , sourceof Kei Kecil’s fresh water and KEI ISLANDS & BEYOND •• Pulau Kei Besar KEI ISLANDS&BEYOND••Pulau Kei (d inclbreakfast 60,000Rp) Debut isasyetlittlemore but thanahouse , themosttraditionalandisolated mandi outrigger ferries crosstoTetoat Ohoidertutu Beach Ohoidertutu kepala desa , 3kmof white sopow- sand . Keys are available from mandis has two slightly age- hastwoslightly Wisata Café . hasfourrooms. andsomebeds Gua LianHawan Coaster Cottages Coaster . Alsofrom Losmen Ngur (meals 12,000- ua Tan- Pulau – and Kilwatrespectively, sodaytrips boats return Eli nextmorningfromBandar the 10.30amferry from Langgur. Thelong- around 1.30pm,awaitingpassengers off departdailyfrom Yamtelboats. These bytwomultistop are served outer villages.traffic-less bikes andfoodvendors onSundays. butover-runweekdays bystrollers, motor- ing white visit sand watersquoise towardsKei Besar. Forblind- attractive viewsacrosslimpidtur- distant behind amonumentdisplaying the craft are uncovered. and rain protection are as also important rock-poolstotheboats.Sunscreenthrough (hugely expensive). Take forwading sandals Yamtel are impossibleunless youcharter find an Elat istheonlyplacethatyoucanreliably ramshackle Dutch-era chapel. two cannon). InEvu’s uppervillage, theolderof rection, of passinga series leave at10.30amand2.30pmineitherdi- andElat(15,000Rp,2½hours) (Langgur) Watdek boatsbetween Two dailypassenger THERE&AWAYGETTING (dictionary) asnobodyspeaksEnglish. ity fromlocalsandtake yourbest picturesque curios- villages. intense Expect swimming) andsomeof Maluku’s most perfect beaches (better forphotosthan picture-steep hillsdotted withseveral Scenic Kei isalongridge of lush, Besar PULAU KEIBESAR beachless headlandcalled A potholedkilometre beyondTamadan isa since 1998butwere slated torestart in2006. kora October pointfor Dullah isfamousasthestarting Dullah Pulau is by Mobil AROUND GETTING same times. same sionally doubletheroutes, departingatthe (25,000Rp,80minutes)speedboats occa- fasterplatforms). Whendemandishigh, Roadless settlements ontheeast coastRoadless settlements rowingboats.Theraceshaven’t run St Antoniuschurches are very rare; mostroadtransport ojek Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com ojek Belang Races . Be sure tobookareturn. Be ride; andit’seasytoget strandedin Difur usingtraditional isaphotogenically www.lonelyplanet.com which isidyllicon Pantai Serbat bagang Johnson lela (fishing (mini- kamus long- kora- with from Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com person 20,000Rp) 40,000Rp) back towardstheport. key findMrs Sanohi attheshopthree doors floors above theBRIbankoffice. Toget the on thewalls.Thelocationisodd–two aged mattresses andsomedamppatches of islets.Tempting attractively onabayfacinghandful set Kei mainvillage andportisElat, Besar’s Elat &Around www.lonelyplanet.com cient graves. Themain accesspointis be- mosque faces atidalisland toppedwithan- 1.8km to from Elat)atminuscule wherestarts theroad reaches thecoast(6km Pantai Daftel palmfronds andbougainvillea.through withlovelyhospital bayviewsglimpsed passes Southwest of Elatasteep, super-narrow road Pantai Daftel Both have shared toiletsand Neither of placeshave these signsorfans. Elat hasKei onlyaccommodation. Besar’s SLEEPING &EATING towards Yamtel. uphillfromthemarkethouse onthe road at thenorthernendof thetiny park,one white-colonnaded bungalowwithred trim rooms.It’sthe cleanly tiledifratherstuffy tiny evening shops. tiny evening eat earlyorsnackonbiscuitsfromthefew fish village of descent towardsElatfromthepicturesque There’s onthemountain-road afine vista beach just10minutes awaybymotor-canoe. named (3km fromElat), areand rockyterraces. Mostnotable bayviews,stonestairways island glimpses, of Elatare charming villages several with of forest. mountain exotic birdsongtoarelatively stand intact ally dry)riverbed cacophonously through but adventurous hikers could followa(usu- tractive. At are settlements newerandlessat- Beyond, Penginapan Sederhana Penginapan Penginapan Sanohi Penginapan Elat hasamarket andthree rice-and- An easy rumah makan St Josef’s Thisistheneater optionwith Bombay Yamtel Lerehoilin ojek Wer Fravav , asuperbwhite-sand beach Sanohi has new sheets onvery Sanohi hasnewsheets -ride upthewestcoastnorth , an unusual half-timbered , anunusualhalf-timbered (7km)and . , where atinywaterside Soinrat Pulau Kelapa . All close bydusk,so . Allclose KEI ISLANDS & BEYOND •• Pulau Kei Besar KEIISLANDS&BEYOND••Pulau Kei ( % (12km) theroadends, 23013; JlPelabuhan; rper Karkarit (4km),curiously (Jl Uver;s/tw30,000/ (Jl Watsin mandis has a sandy hasasandy . Itstretches (8km). . Ngurdu arched Walk five minutes furthertofindthetriple- hisprivateis happytoshowoff turtlepool. stalls opentocaterstalls tolocalpicnickers. exceptonSundayswhensnack to yourself for swimming.You’llprobablyhave itall thewaterthough isgenerally tooshallow The waving palmsare superblyphotogenic beach behindarustyDalek-shapedmosque. there’s ahandfulof picnicshelters onthe twohamletsatDaftel where these tween the beach from Some10minutes’the mountain! walkalong that somehowbecamepetrifiedandranup shipwreck you thiswasonceaPortuguese (stone boat).Straight-faced localswillassure forestshigh ishiddenamysterious wair (21kmaway)via Elat ittakes atleastanhourtoreach Kil- Indonesia. From guage ratherthanBahasa traditions andtend tospeakthelocalKei lan- paratively isolated, steeped insuperstitious rock-pools butnobeaches. Villages are com- The eastern coastlinehasattractive tidal East Coast beyond, a HatiKudusJesus Gereja Waur’s oversized woodenchurch, the1927 style Madonna lurksinagrottobehind as far it’sworthventuring of atleast glimpses sea, as far the island’scentralspineandisasphalted The mainroadsouthroller-coasters down South ofElat which awomanturnedintoKuelfish. home to many Bandanese. These are These the home tomanyBandanese. boxed(see text, below ). church’s frontdoorfrombesidethe Ojeks Well beyondtheroad’send, modern Many tious peopledropcoinsforgoodluck. woma, byanopen-airshrineknownasamarked The spiritualcentre ofevery villageis Kei WOMA lished five-legged stonealtar.lished five-legged rare original oneintheformofanunembel- monstrosities. ButinWauryou canfinda Kuel Rock ask20,000Rpreturn fromElat. intowhoseoffering dishsupersti- Waur woma VOC cannon Ohoiwait (6kmfromElat).ALourdes- are tackily painted are concrete tackily , site of in localfairytales Kilwair . Though there. Though are few pointscuriouslyatthe . Twohundred metres Reyahru , Anderius Uwaubun , AnderiusUwaubun , within whose , withinwhose Banda Eli batu kapal woma

779

is MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU in the Spaniards. Both sultans found theirin theSpaniards. Bothsultans then ruler quicklyresponded byinviting inTernate.Europeans tosettle Tidore’s Sulawesi andPapua. fluence thatspread asfarafieldAmbon, could claim nominalin- times bothsultans eachtheir wealthfighting other. Atcertain Indies,wastingmuchers of inthemedieval becamethe mostpowerfulrul- their sultans of product(cloves), agloballyimportant valry. As theworld’s onlymajor producers sultanates withalonghistoryof bitter ri- significant. Bothislandsare ancientIslamic populous, visuallydramaticandhistorically and itsneighbour PulauTidore are themost Pulau Halmahera. PulauTernate Ofthese, thewesternlurk off coastof crazy-Kshaped A stringof perfect volcanicconeislands % PULAU TERNATE are the land groups,perhapsthemostinteresting Of manyvery isolated islandMaluku is- SOUTHERN MALUKU for goldsmithing. spoken here andthepeopleare renowned Islands,isstill now extinctintheBanda 1621 (see p765 language, ). TheBandanese Islands duringtheDutch-led massacres of thatfledtheBanda descendants of survivors 780 56km tothesouth. Timor, transportlinkstoEast develop just structure on infra- ment announcedplanstodevelop airport. Inearly2006theMaluku govern- tourist attractionisat Known forwildorchids, theironereal Aru boat-shaped stoneplatform.Themostlyflat 18m-long the beach toanintricately carved Here leadsupfrom staircase a30m-high hours1½ uncomfortable from Saumlaki. cargo little boats,though most are accessible onlybyrare Perintis interest togeologists thantotouristsand towards Timor. are These of much more of southernislandsswingsback around ferries fromTual.Acomparatively aridarc car- andbyweekly fromLanggur by flights arefamed foritspearls.Bothcapitals served In 1511 the Portuguese wereIn 1511thePortuguese thefirst island group (Dobo is the capital) is islandgroup(Dobo isthecapital) 0921 PULAU TERNATE Tanimbars ua Wetar Pulau (Saumlaki is the capital). (Saumlakiisthecapital). Sangliat Dol, hopingonedayto ua Kisar Pulau around hasan ὄ ship interest inbuyingcloves. Infact,Drake’s dis- tounded hishostbyalmost total DrakeAfter anamicablemeeting, as- English pirate-adventurer FrancisDrake. palace. Five years later heentertained the new Ternatean tookitover sultan ashis held outintheircastletill1575whenthe in February 1570.Thebesieged Portuguese executed andhisheadexhibited onapike rebel Hairun whenSultan was (Khairun) and heavy-handed ‘justice’,were driven to fended bytheEuropean’simported pigs Ternate’s Muslimpopulation,already of- the spicemarket andpreach Christianity. peans triedtodominate theislands,corner rapidlyexhausted astheEuro- hospitality monopoly. TheDutch prevailed eventually, one another forcontrolof anelusive clove againstTidoreoff aswell asconfronting and Machiavellian, theyplayed Ternate that isasfascinating asitiscomplicated to make themselves unpopular. Inahistory couldn’t carryanycloves. Spanish-American gold thathesimply PULAU TERNATE Vehicle Ferry Karaoke (Sulawesi) to Bitung (200km) Bobani Jouburiki Bamadehe Danau Tolire The SpaniardsandDutch were thenext Kecil Dorari Isa Oil Terminal Kastela Golden Hind Rua Pertamina Togafo Taduma Dorpedu Loto Obi Islands(250km) Nosra Senora To Makian(40km) Ambon (440km);Sorong(600km); Sulamadaha del Rosario ὄὄὄ ὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ Bacan (200km); Takome Danau Tolire To Bitung&Manado(200km); Benteng Pulau Hiri Fuhudu Jambula Ternate Besar Pulau Gunung Api Sanana (SuluIslands) M ALUK Gamalama Togolobe (1721m) Sasa Tobololo S EA Laguna Danau Santo Pedro Gambesi Benteng Batu Angus i Paulo wassofullof stolen Air Tege Fitu Marikuruba Bacalepo Ngade Bula www.lonelyplanet.com Kalamata Benteng Dodinga Maitara Kulaba Teluk Pulau Bastiong Dufa-Dufa Kota Baru 0 0 Tarau ὄ ὄ Ternate Kota Sango (Halmahera) (Halmahera) To Sofifi Rum Cobo To Jailolo (30km) (Halmahera) To Sidangoli Tidore Pulau 3 km 2 miles (20km) Taman Cobo lapsed signboardatthesite.lapsed power cuts,butasyetthere’s onlyacol- Rua shouldonedayendtheisland’sregular Kastela between thermal powerstation and geo- struction programmes.Aproposed but isnowrebounding withmajor con- main well-respected institutionstoday. interrupted formost of theperiodandre- thesultanatescontinuedalmostun- though www.lonelyplanet.com Warung Internet Anteronet Warung Internet h Warnet Gamalama.net C@feNet Muara Chamber Internet ACCESS INTERNET Information Bastiong. JlRaya andeventually Esa JlMerdeka,Khairun, JlMononutu,Hasan different namesatdifferent points:JlSultan hasThe mainnorth–souththrough-road for afternoon snacking. strollsandevening ‘Swering’, aneternally popularpromenade known atitssouthernendas wan Revolusi, mercial centre isonandaroundJlPahla- port.Thecom- airport tobeyondBastiong sprawl stretching around10kmfromthe but inreality, Ternate Kota isonelong Areas withinthecityare stillcalled‘villages’ Orientation under construction. finenewmosquesareyears. already Several totransformthecityover set seems coming reclamation andbuildingprogramme gutted amassive in1999.However land- suburbs byoccasionalruinsof churches and haphazard,spicedpainfullyinsome most otherarchitecture looksratherdrab stored forts andapalacetovisit.Fornow Maluku. There are acoupleof partlyre- forexploringNorth asabase mainly useful ofglimpses neighbouring islandsbutis Gamalama, TernateKota offers somelovely Clinging tothevolcanicconeof dramatic KOTA TERNATE per hr10,000Rp; Sporadic openinghours. the NirwanaElshHotel. Hotellobby,upstairsabove mosquitoes. It’sintheMuara topowercutsand and agreat centrallocationbutsubject per hr6000Rp) Sporadicopeninghours. backup and OK connection. Within theTelkom andOKconnection. backup Building. Ternate someviolencein1999–2000, saw 24hr; a ) Comfychairs,air-con, power-supply h ( % (Jl HasanEsa;perhr10,000Rp) (Jl 8am-midnight) Decent connection 8am-midnight) Decentconnection 328412; Jl Pahlawan Revolusi; Revolusi; 328412; JlPahlawan PULAU TERNATE ••KotaTernate (Jl Pattimura; perhr8,000Rp; (Jl (Jl Sultan Khairun 125; SultanKhairun (Jl and allowswithdrawalsupto1,500,000Rponmostcards. guide to climb Gamalama. Possibly. guide toclimbGamalama. 7; $100 exchange. to changemoney:onlyUS-dollarcashwithaminimum h home. there However isa Palacestyle, theSultan’s isstillafamily Built in1796andrestored insemi-colonial KERATON (ISTANA KESULTAN) Sights Ternate Office CityTourist Office Tourist Maluku North accurate map of Ternate City. muster themtheycan’teven an Between purpose. little useful toserve seem offices andreasonable spoken Englishthese staff Despite ampleranksof under-employed TOURIST INFORMATION Telkom tion incomingyears. rationalisa- digits.Expect five, sixorseven Strangely Ternate phonenumbers canhave TELEPHONE Danamon Bank BNI Bank Bank Mandiri MONEY a branchonJlMononutu. withdrawalsofupto1,250,000Rp.There’s also MasterCard; the store-room key. the store-room offwith brochures are availableifthebosshasn’twalked 14; in avisitissigningatthe wide viewstowardsHalmahera. First step dating backto1257.Theairyveranda offers the genealogy of theTernatean royalfamily bilia fromthereigns of Notice pastsultans. various swordsandarmour,plusmemora- lection of andDutch helmets, Portuguese nation) h your outlook (and good fortune). your outlook (andgoodfortune). feelings ofbeingpestered, dependingon result indelightfulfriendshipsorinfuriating practice. They popupeverywhere. This can to helptouristsinreturn forconversation English-languagestudents desperatekeen Few placesinIndonesiahave somany ultra HELLO MISTER h 7.30am-3pm Mon-Thu, Theonlybank 7.30-noonFri) 8am-2pm Mon-Fri) Friendly staffcanhelpyoufinda Friendly 8am-2pm Mon-Fri) containing asmallbutinteresting containing col- 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Somepassinglyinformative 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) (Jl Pattimura Revolusi; &JlPahlawan (Jl (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Pahlawan Revolusi; Revolusi; (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlPahlawan (Jl Nukila) ATM Nukila) (Jl forVisaandDeltabutnot (Jl Pahlawan Revolusi) ATM Revolusi) Pahlawan (Jl is24-hour ( % ( % museum section 22760; Jl Kamaluddin 22760; JlKamaluddin Sekretariat kiosk Sekretariat 327396; Jl Kamboja 327396; JlKamboja h 24hr)

781 (do- MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU 782 To AirTege 45 To Marikuruba 4 6 1 3 2 5 KOTA TERNATE Floridas (4km); Teratai (4km) To BentengKalamata(1km); Tubo Taman Ria(1.5km); PULAU TERNATE ••KotaTernate University Jl Kampus 19 Ὀ ὈὈ Perumnas AC Babullah Airport Ubo Moya Mosque Gang Giant Clove

Jl Tolellu Mosque &

Jl Bola 58 Hotel Ayu

Kasturian Lestari Angus Batu Jl

34 Jl Jeruk Jl 31

Jl Teripang Keraton 18

See Enlargement Jl Cempaka Oskar Dufa Tinggi Tanah 62 3 Jl Pasar Bastiong Pasar Jl Jl Jati ὇

26 Sulamadaha (7km)

Jl Lumba Lumba Jl Feri Jl Jambu Jl (2.5km); Batu

Jl Jati I 14 53 Angus (3km); To Bacalepo Jl Raya Bastiong Kalumpong

Jl Matiara 7 10 Ὀ Ὀ

Jl Seruni Jl Kamaluddin

Jl Julung Jl

Jl Salak Jl Jl Sultan Babullah Sultan Jl

49 Jl Sultan Khairun Sultan Jl Police Jetty New Bastiong

46 Jl Stadion Jl 51 Toboko 47

Gates Jl Hasan Esa Merdeka Jl B Kampung Makasar

Centre Jl Nuku Jl

Jl Kamboja Jl Jl Z A Syah augItre neoe .C4 Warung InternetAnteronet.. SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Site forSuryaPagi...... Site forNewHotel...... Site forJatiPlaza...... Penginapan Sejahtera...... Penginapan Sabrina...... Penginapan Purnama...... Penginapan KembarEmas... Nirwana ElshHotel...... Neraca GoldenHotel...... Losmen Kita...... Hotel PuriAzzali...... Hotel Indah...... Hotel Archie...... Bukit PelangiHotel...... Barokah GuestHouse...... Sultan's Mosque...... Keraton SekretariatKiosk.... Keraton (IstanaKesultan)..... Benteng Tolukko...... Benteng Oranye...... Warung Gamalama.net...... Ternate CityTouristOffice... Post Office&Telkom...... North MalukuTouristOffice.. Muara C@feNet...... (see25) Istana FM...... Danamon Bank...... Chamber Internet...... BNI Bank...... Bastiong Sub-PostOffice...... Bank Mandiri...... Bank Mandiri......

Kota Baru Ὀ Ὀ 15 Mosque Indonesia Cemetary

Bank of Jl Tanah Mesjid Tanah Jl

Kalumpong Semangka Chinese

Jl Cengeh Afo Jl

0 0 Jl Jambu Jl ὇ ὇ 16 Tinggi Tanah Jl Air Sentosa

Jl Tanah Tinggi Jl Rambutan Jl Kakatua Jl Jl Cendrawasih Kampung Makasar

Kantor Walikuta Jl Jeruk

Jl Pattimura Jl Bangau 17

Kie Rahu Babullah Sultan Jl 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10

Stadium

Jl Seruni II 11 (City Hall) Salak Jl 12 Gamsungi Yasin Jl

Jl Seruni 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Ὀ ὈὈ Jl Maleo Ὀ 55 Jl Sultan Khairun Sultan Jl C5 A5 D5 D5 C6 D5 B6 D5 D5 C6 D6 D5 D6 A6 A2 C4 C4 C4 B2 C5 C5 B3 D5 D6 B6 D5 D6 D5 A6 D5 D6

Jl Hajar Dewantara

('School Road') Jl Nuri Area Reclaimation Land Jl Pipit Mesjid Anar Trigana (ArchieTravel)...... Manado&Sanana...... Pelni...... Nearest BemoTerminustoAirport.. Mesjid Baru/JatiMalljetty...... Merpati ...... Travel)...... Kota BaruJetty...... Ferry Tickets...... Express Air...... Dufa-Dufa Jetty...... Central BemoTerminal...... Boat TicketsforBacan&Obi...... Bela Travel...... Bastiong 'First'Port...... Bastiong FerryPort...... Airport...... Ahmad YaniPort...... Warungs...... Sriwijaya SwalayaMinimarket...... Rumah MakanJailolo...... Pondok Katu...... Night Warungs...... Muara Minimarket...... (see25) Kafe CitraRasa...... Hitam Putih...... Family Bakery...... California ...... Barokah...... (see 18) Wisma MegahTernate...... Ternate CityHotel...... TRANSPORT EATING wrn/eta rmnd et. D5 Ticket OfficesforBoatto Swering/Central PromenadeJetty.. Lion Air/WingsAir(AlmasMega

Effendi Jl Branjangan

Jl Sali Jl Nukila

Jl Stadion Jl Church Jl Ketilang Jl 13 40 52 28

Jl Hasan 32

0 0 23 35 Police Merdeka Jl Jl Ketilang

Jl Mononutu Jl 22 Senang Jl 2 Market 36

Main IslandRoad To Bastiong; Jl Nasution

Centre Senen

Jl Hasan Esa www.lonelyplanet.com

Entrance Jl Ahmad Jl 5

Jl Nuku 8 29 21

42 Jl Mawar Jl 50 56

Market Jl Kamboja Jl 9 Fish

Jl Z A Syah 48 Yani Jl Salim Fabanyo 27 37 4 33 Jl Viyaya Kusuma 20 D 38 6 1 mile 25 24 30

Jl Anggrek New Mosque 0.3 miles 59 500 m Baru Kota 43

Promenade 39

Swering 57 54 Jl Pahlawan Revolusi 41 60 Site 61 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 44 2 km A6 D6 A6 D6 D6 A1 D5 D5 C5 D6 B6 C6 B2 D4 B6 D5 B6 B6 A1 D6 D5 D5 D6 C5 D5 D5 D5 D5 D5 Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com ( www.lonelyplanet.com about 1km southof Onceknown Bastiong. small, heavy-handedly renovated fortis At thesouthernmost endof town,this BENTENG KALAMATA centre). for Dufa-Dufa(2000Rp,3kmfrom town 1996 renovations. Take anybemobound in andshowyouphotosof theextensive lady livingbesidetheentrancecan letyou onTernate.stronghold Foradonation the Hollandia)wasthefirst European Benteng little ‘womb-shaped’fort(alsoknownas stored by theDutch in1610,thisdinky in1512andre-Built bythePortuguese BENTENG TOLUKKO in Ternate. came theresidence of theDutch governors (Jakarta) inaround1619.Thefortlater be- operationbefore itmovedVOC toBatavia that washeadquarters of theentire Dutch That’s allthatremains amassive 1607 walls andfourcannon-toppedbastions. at thecentre of townare three re-concreted Almost hiddeninthemarket-melee right BENTENG ORANYE procession. of flamingtorches welcomestheSultan’s whenamass ofthe 27thevening Ramadan the focusof are bigexpansionplans.Themosqueis interior timberworkisimpressive. There thecorrugated red roofBeneath theheavy has atraditionalmulti-tiered pyramidform. Just southof thepalace,royalmosque SULTAN’S MOSQUE square thattheKeraton overlooks. ability tostopGamalamafromerupting. ting. Someclaimithasthemore impressive periodiccut- growing ‘hair’,which needs hasmagicalpowers including supposedly feathers, it’swornonlyatcoronationsand (royal crown).Toppedwithcassowary the (arranged wellahead)maysee ing life sagas. fluent English)of theroyalfamily’s amaz- chanting (in sister IbuRini,andheartales be granted en- anaudiencewiththesultan’s is available. Ifyou’re even luckyyoumight % All northbound bemospassthegrassy permission Only groupswiththeSultan’s 21166; h 6am-6pm) Laila Tulqadr PULAU TERNATE ••KotaTernate tofindwhenaguide celebrationson mahkota fort development. front Jati Plaza,partof thebignewmall tion inUboandthethree-star water- whatlooksamajor Stadion), construc- (Jl including thealmost-finished SuryaPagi looking newhotels are underconstruction, atleastfivedysfunction. However great- Sasa orJambulaSasa bemo(2000Rp). great views acrosstoTidore. Take aRua, uptoitsangledwallsandthereright are rebuilt bytheDutch in1610.Waves lap and it wasbuiltin1540bythePortuguese, Kayu Merahas Benteng (RedWoodFort), with fan65,000/90,000Rp, dwithair-con 150,000Rp; There are afew exceptions. AhmadYanibetween PortandJlKamboja. is plentifulbutvery often abysmal,notably Budget accommodationunder150,000Rp BUDGET damp patches, aslimy ing placesoften have paint, alittlepeeling sauna-like humidity.Even thenicestexist- conditioner given theoppressive heatand You’ll probablyvalueapowerfulnewair Sleeping help locate guides. prayers enroute. can Thetouristoffices requisite orfailedtosay elevation) a certain they broke (egnoturinatingabove taboos the attempt; someclaimthiswasbecause two foreign visitors have disappeared in five hours andrequires aguide. Atleast often cloud-shroudedsummittakes around strenuous andhazardous.Reaching the and climbingabove thetree lineisboth transmitter tower).Thegoingisvery steep hikes fromAirTege Tege village (nearthe lage. There are short,clove-grove pleasant, keeps careful watch fromMarikuruba vil- imminently dangerous. Avolcanologyunit 1980, 1983and1994itisnotconsidered asrecentlyit hasblownitsfierynose as ontheisland.Although house most every volcano Gamalama erupted in1840,destroyingal- 1721m This GUNUNG APIGAMALAMA Tidore. Others are high-ceilinged boxes. (8A) isnewandvery withviewsof pleasant Kalamata, thebestroom beyond Benteng a waterfront garden4kmsouthof thecentre Taman Ria Penginapan Sabrina Penginapan ( % 22124; d75,000-100,000Rp) ( % mandi is 25896; JlSali Effendi; s/d Pulau Ternate. andahintof Set in Set 783 a

) MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU eternally popular. lusi; tw/ste115,000-170,000/275,000Rp; showers 150,000/200,000Rp; 198,000/242,000Rp; s/d 1;standards/d143,000/187,000Rp,superior Nuku above restaurant. theeccentricBarokah player and hot-water showerare ranged VCD-air-con roomswithminibar, TV, there’s electricity (there isn’tagenerator). 170,000Rp youget hotwater, atleastwhen renovated andreasonable value. From is especiallycharming, they’re recently all-air-conceptable none rooms.Though central, thisisaramblingwarren of ac- con &hotwater137,500/154,000; 66,000/77,000Rp, withair-con93,500/110,000Rp,air- a lowwall.Clientelemostlymale. from behind value, cleancheapiefacingBastiongferry port Bastiong; s/d50,000/60,000Rp,dwithfan70,000Rp)Good Barokah GuestHouse Barokah MIDRANGE Sejahtera Penginapan Purnama Penginapan lusi; s/twfrom99,000/126,500Rp; in aquietbackstreet. Friendly, relatively cleanfamilyhomestay Penginapan Kembar Emas Kembar Penginapan climb. lar butwithhotwater andfewer stairs to signs of wear. Superiorroomsare simi- somearethough windowlessandshowing conditioned andmostare reasonably bright but comparativelycleanandrepainted. 298; s/dfrom38,000/70,000Rp)Tiny, verybasicbox-rooms Chinese porcelain. bathroom inaslightlygrubbyfamilyhomewith lotsofold roomswithoutfanor per person30,000Rp)Foursurvivable 175,000-220,000/220,000Rp; rooms. bed-factoryrise withnearly50clean,bland 784 erator. Supercentral. thanks totheNeraca’searth-shakinggen- citypower-cuts coolduringinevitable stay acrucial plusisthatair-conever rooms bucket the 165,000Rp juniorsuitesand even have is lookingpretty worn.Roomsare dreary ered Ternate’s besthotel, todaytheNeraca Nirwana ElshHotel Neraca GoldenHotel Hotel Indah Hotel If money-saving isallthatmatters: Ternate CityHotel Losmen Kita PULAU TERNATE ••KotaTernate mandis ( ( andnon-flushing loos.How- % % a 21950; JlStadion;twwithcold/hot 21334; Jl Bosoiri 3;s/twwithfan 21334; JlBosoiri ( ) ( ( % Allroomsare air- ( % ( % % % ( a a % ( 24297; Mohajarin Falajawa;24297; Mohajarin 21139; JlSalimFabanyo % 23257; Jl Pahlawan Revo- 23257; JlPahlawan 23120; Gang Oskar; d/tw Oskar; 23120; Gang 21668; Jl Pahlawan Revo- 21668; JlPahlawan a ) ) 22555; fax22630;Jl Rambling low- Rambling a 3110750; JlFeri, Well-appointed ) Onceconsid- ) a Modestbut ) Perfectly ing tiger-striped linen. Gamalama. Somenewdoubleshave amus- Bridge-balconies have decentviewsof 357,500Rp; 286,000, twfrom286,000-313,500,d286,000- 7.30pm-11pm) 6,600-11,000Rp, fresh juices 7700Rp; 338;executive dfrom330,000Rp; Jati Selatan but the atmosphere isoriented towards anddinkylanterns. There’stanks karaoke taverna withfish lent juicesinahoedown particularly disappointing. areoptions under300,000Rpbutthose choosing. There are acoupleof cheaper sickly pastel before colours: lookatseveral cally avery mixed bag.Mostare painted in clock. Roomsare butstylisti- comfortable sittingroomwithgrandfather big, sparse are aterrace witha wonderfulviewandthe abovepalace high Itsbestfeatures Bastiong. Bukit Pelangi like rises aminorcolonial meals 6,000-10,000Rp; Ngade (see p786 ). eateries are outsidethecityinTerau and Pahlawan (Jl Revolusi). markets andonthe‘Swering’promenade number of aroundthe warungs,notably For cheap eatsthere’s analmostlimitless Eating Ternate atthetimeof research. the bedroomswere themostagreeable in rooms don’thave hotwater, butotherwise Strangely, given thepricing,smallbath- pointed withorchids andframedfabrics. ishly minimalistmini-hotel tastefully ap- rice-and-fish meals. able placeforinexpensive point-and-pick terrace. views frombamboochairs onthe3rd-floor Contemplatesuburban house. lovely wide inanouveau-riche beds andsatellite TV coloured new air-con roomshave good 385,000, ste440,000-495,000Rp; tween theatricalcolumns. tween better roomshave bathtubsentered be- partlyinEnglish. Some attentive service, Bastiong Dusun;s/d150,000/250,000Rp; Wisma Megah Ternate Wisma Megah oe Archie Hotel Rumah Makan Jailolo Makan Rumah The island’smostappealingupmarket Hitam Putih Hitam Bukit Pelangi Hotel Pelangi Bukit Hotel Puri Azzali Puri Hotel Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com a Decent light snacksandexcel- Decentlight ) Modern,floralroomsand ( ( % % 327423; Jl Hasan Senen; snackmeals 327423; JlHasanSenen; 3110555; Jl Nuku 6;sfrom258,000- 3110555; JlNuku h ( % 10am-10pm) ( 21959; JlMononutu275;d % www.lonelyplanet.com (Jl Pahlawan Revolusi 7; Revolusi Pahlawan (Jl a ( 22180; fax327077;Jl % h ) Bright, styl- Bright, 327989; Jl Raya 327989; JlRaya a Bright, reli- Bright, 7.30am-6pm & ) Creamy- a ) The mains 8500-13,000Rp; tiong; greasy. Thelive musicisrelatively mellow. and localdishesthatare ifsomewhat tasty Japanese, European goblin gladeserving 25,000-37,000Rp; unpriced menus. despitewith couplesandvery affordable in theswayingwicker Popular lamplight. it’sfairlycharmingby daybutatnight Boeing 747, taking onlyfive 747,taking hours.Boeing Jakarta viaMakassar usingarelatively fast markets. girl placesaroundtown. couples andfamilies,unlike manybuy-a- www.lonelyplanet.com Pattimura; Lion Air/WingsAir AIR &Away There Getting protection andafan. afternoon games bringplentyof water, sun For stadium. overfull, unshadedKieRahu league footballteam whoplayattheoften out tocheer forPersiter, Ternate’s major- couple of dayspermonthyoucouldturn around diningorkaraoke. Alternatively a In Ternate revolves mostentertainment Entertainment ofhas aselection fresh bread andpastries. Bosoiri) (Jl food. good Chinese lunches and ings andispopularforseafood air-conditioned oasishashigh-beamed ceil- 66,000Rp; burgers andKentucky-style drumsticks. ‘chicken steaks’ (9700Rp)aswellbird- iantly withpowercutstoproducevery tasty nate’s chicken val- fastfoodpalacestruggles book ahead. and Surabaya. Pricesare so load-weighted nado withconnectionstoMakassar, Jakarta to Makassar viaManado andLuwuk. returning Tuesdays) andhopsonce weekly Ternate–Ambon–Tual link(outWednesdays, 10,200Rp, mealsfrom16,000Rp; Fri, 8am-2pmSat&Sun) Fri, California Barokah Trigana Air Trigana Kafe CitraRasa Kafe For self-catering trythe For self-catering Pondok Katu Express Air Express h h or h 8am-5pm Mon-Sat) Family Bakery Family Bakery breakfast, lunch&dinner) 8am-8pm) ( ( % ( % Muara % h (Archie Travel; ( 23120; Gang Oskar; mains14,300- Oskar; 23120; Gang % 328484; JlStadion; 311 0076; Jl Hasan Senen; burgers 311 0076;JlHasanSenen; 10am-10pm) (Almas Mega Travel; (Almas Mega ( h % flies three to timesweekly 327332; JlBranjangan28;mains (Jl Pahlawan Revolusi) Pahlawan (Jl flies twicedailytoMa- PULAU TERNATE ••KotaTernate 9am-10pm) 328420; Jl Pahlawan Revolusi; Revolusi; 328420; JlPahlawan (Jl Nukila; Nukila; (Jl provides auseful % h Thisrefreshingly Sriwijaya Swalaya Sriwijaya 328484; Jl Raya Bas- 328484; JlRaya 10am-10pm) h Looks dowdy An artificial 8am-6pm Mon- h % 8am-7pm) 55555; Jl mini- Ter- Sat, 9am-noonSun) Bastiong ferryport days) onTuesdays/Thursdays. Sanana (SulaIslands,210,000Rp,uptotwo 21 hours) onSaturdays/Thursdays andto Teratai eastbound only. (115,000Rp, 19hours) viaNamlea(Buru) Wednesdays and5pmSaturdays). Sulawesi,66,000Rp,10am and overnighttoBitung(North 14,900Rp,8am) 3800Rp, 7am)andSidangoli(Halmahera; boat services to Makian, Bacan(80,000Rp,8pm)andObi. toMakian, boat services noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-3pmSat) noon &2-5pmMon-Fri, ous onward flights exManadoous onwardflights orJakarta. (Halmahera). tions (2000Rp) butwithin thecentre, continue fromhere inalldirec-Bemos cost 2000Rptothe centralbemoterminal. versity from where very frequent bemos Alternatively walk 10minutes totheuni- cept 15,000Rpfromjustbeyond the gate. centre of town.Sometimes Airportintothe 6km hopfromBabullah Taxis wantanoutrageous 35,000Rpforthe Around Getting jetty Promenade Swering/Central jetty Baru/JatiMall Mesjid jetty Kota Baru Dufa-Dufa jetty Bastiong ‘first’port liners. Theirregular harbour for Maluku. AhmadYani portisthepassenger Ternate istheshippinghubforNorth BOAT hera) fromwhere 30,000Rp, 10am). 10,000Rp,4pm)andto Sofifi (Halmahera, to Goto(Tidore, p752. themaponMaluku destinations.See small planesbuzzingtoawealthof North viaMakassar.yakarta Italsooperates two to Manado andthree toYog- timesweekly to Jakarta viaMakassar, fourtimesweekly The hours). (northern Sulawesi,97,500Rp,seven 137,500Rp, 14to16hours) andBitung stop atTernate Sorong(Papua; between Halmahera. Other jetties: Non-Pelni slowboats Merpati Bela Travel Lambelu both sail toManado bothsail (145,000Rp, ( % Pelni ( Nggapulu Nggapulu % mobils Twice dailyspeedboatstoSofifi(Halma- linksTernate withAmbon Speedboats toJailolo(Halmahera). 21651; Jl Bosoiri; 21651; JlBosoiri; fliesdailyexceptMondays 25470; fax 25364; Jl Bosoiri; 25470; fax25364;JlBosoiri; Vehicle ferries daily to Rum (Tidore, Vehicle dailytoRum(Tidore, ferries ( Speedboats to Rum (Tidore), andall Speedboats toRum(Tidore), % connect toWeda. connect 21434; Sangiang Sangiang and Speedboats toSidangoli RM Theodora h h Sinabung can bookvari- 8am-4pm Mon-Sat) ojeks Daily speedboats loops round 8am-4pm Mon- willac- h / both Intim ojeks

9am- 785 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU 16,500; the village of 300-year-old lava flow,notatypeof steak. offshore volcanicconeof boats (3000Rpperperson) buzzacrosstothe cove some800meast,occasionalpubliclong- in Sulamadaha–askRikoat andtherestandards are plansforadive-shop kelling offHiriisrelatively goodbyTernate of Music last step of family’s1945 theSultan’s calepo Ternate. fromKota anticlockwise areThe placesinthissection covered AROUND PULAUTERNATE convenient. (3000Rp pershort hop)are much more 786 from thesouthernedge of return on foot). ices shouldyouwanttodescend(1½hours crater lake. Localchildren offer guideserv- green, crocodile-infested waters of thisdeep plummetdowntothelugubriously cliffs rim of a paved side-lane(2000Rpfee) climbstothe Tolire Kecil. thanakilometre Less further, to thecoastbesidesmall,muddyDanau beyond, style andastepped waterfront terrace. Just most appealingcafés,withahintof Balinese 4450304) esque black-sand beaches areesque black-sand foundat crownedin1257.Moresupposedly pictur- spot where Ternate’s very first was sultan Hotel Pantai Indah Hotel beach justbeyondthesimplebutacceptable black-sand a popularifsomewhatscruffy ish attack. ish attack. main line of defence against a 1606Span- SantoPedro iPauloteng five years later. Hairun in1570thengottheircomeuppance murdered you thatthePortuguese Sultan a concrete monumentgraphicallyreminds it,toppedwithagiantclove,tions. Beside received someham-fisted partial renova- del Rosario Senora fortoffor the1522Portuguese and at Beyond some nutmeg plantations and somenutmegplantations Beyond At thetopof theisland, Facing the crashing waves inTerau, Jouburiki At Ngadethestubby fortremnant of PULAU TERNATE ••AroundPulau Ternate ( h % near Bastiong ‘First’ nearBastiong port. Kastela Danau Tolire Besar Danau Tolire –style escapefromTernate. Snor- Batu Angus 10am-midnight) 21724; mains25,000-90,000Rp,juices13,800- beach, reached byafootpath Takome . Thelatter village isnamed , whose ruinshave, whose recently (d withfan50,000Rp) (BurntRock)isaspiky , themainroadreturns is oneof Ternate’s wasonceTernate’s . Startlingly sheer. Startlingly Pulau Hiri Dorpedu Istana FM Sulamadaha etn Nosra Benteng . Hiri was . Hiriwas . Froma , wasthe ( % Sound Sound has has Ben- 0812 0812 Rua Ba- guest rooms lovely viewsshared bytwocomfortable start. where the longest south-route bemos windy2kmwalktoTaduma,a pleasantly as farTogafo(4000Rp).Fromthere it’s around, somenorth-route vehicles drive right nosinglebemogoes Although wise). andKastelaanticlockwise) (2000Rpclock- frequent asfarSulamadaha(3000Rp te’s centralterminal. Theyare remarkably Terna- bypublicbemosfromKota served Most of thepaved round-islandroadis Around Getting banana leaf). nari quite outstanding They serve conesofsuperimposed Tidore andMaitara. with splendidviewsacrossthebayto the fort,Floridasisaterraced restaurant 11pm) h nate againnear last green spacebefore reaching Ter- Kota lake withalushlyforested perimeter isthe but suffers more fromkaraoke noise. morehas slightly atmosphere thanFloridas’ hour, negotiable). for theafternoon (around30,000Rpper

A better alternative istocharter an Teratai Danau Laguna SADDAM &OSAMA help thepoor’. replied: to ‘He’safriendlyArab who likes consulting withsome friendsshefinally wearer. She giggled embarrassedly. After onebinLadenshirt on yourchest?’Iasked ary communism.‘SowhoisthisOsama chap involvementimply actual withrevolution- wall: atrendy to imagethat’shighlyunlikely Che Guevaraposter onaBritishstudent’s deep-seated a radicalIslam.It’sratherlike Butdon’tassumethat thisimpliesshirts. And Osamafeatures widelyonpopularT- Laden. There are plentymore these. like public benchseatalongwithOsamabin faceco-decorates athe oldIraqidictator’s bashing signboardinTernate. InSidangoli ‘Saddam isherooftheWorld’saysaBush- breakfast, lunch&dinner) Floridas Floridas NearFloridas,Teratai hassimilarly (fish in hot almond sauce roasted ina (fish inhotalmondsauce ( % (d 250,000Rp, 327445; mains16,500-300,000; ( % , a pleasant, spring-fed, apleasant, bowl- Benteng Kalamata Benteng 24430; mains11,000-250,000; Acrosstheroadfrom a MarkElliott www.lonelyplanet.com ) . Teratai’s terrace ikan wokuke- . h ojek 8am- Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Gurabunga–Lada-Ake roadsonTidore. of Ternate are fromtheMaftutu–Rum and inTernate,Bastiong whilethefinestviews canic profile looksmagnificentviewedfrom reinstated in1999.Theisland’sproudvol- era. was The36thsultan in theSoekarno from1109untilabolished Islamic sultanate a great spiceproducer,wasanindependent and implacablehistoricalenemy.Tidore, also trast tothebustleof Ternate, itsneighbour Charming Tidore makes arefreshing con- % TIDORE PULAU www.lonelyplanet.com spittoons, plustheroyalcrown toppedwith chair sedan and giant playing the sultan’s Museum Sultan’s Memorial Sonyine Malige Justbeyond isthe thenight. you don’tstay the idyllicrear waterfront terrace if even worth having agrittycoffee (2000Rp)on flower-decked Penginapan Saroja where it’s way. Barely aminute’s walknorthisthe sit onalowridge reached byanew stair- remnants of this17th-centurySpanishfort looked by at thesouthernmostedge of Soasio,over- Tidore’s very modesthistoricalheartis SOASIO Soasio–Maftutu–Rum run. butappealing and asimilarfee fortherough turn fromSoasiotoLada-Ake viaGurabunga market mornings. except forbusyTuesday,FridayandSunday to Gurabunga (8500Rp) leave infrequently beyond Maftutu fromSoasio/Goto. Bemos utes). On thenorthernroadnobemogoes (4000Rp) andsometoRum(7500Rp,30min- minutes), withmostcontinuingtoTomalou market terminal tooldSoasio(2000Rp,10 shuttlevery frequentlyBemos fromGoto Around Getting Ternate’sKota ‘Swering’jettyat7am. and onedirect fromGototo speedboat carferrya Bastiong–Rum (3800Rp, 7am), utes) viathesouthcoastroad.There’s also Tidore’s Soasio(7500Rp,30min- capital arrive atRumfromwhere bemosrunto minutes). These until dusk(6000Rp,seven ‘First’ portinTernate departvery frequently Twelve-seater fromBastiong speedboats &Away There Getting 0921 Benteng Tohula Benteng Ojeks PULAU TIDORE••Soasio want50,000Rpre- . Theovergrown ὄὄ ὄὄ , dis- din; s/tw75,000/150,000Rp day berathergrand. shapehereslowly taking one which might anewblue-roofedHowever, palace-villa is overgrown whitewashed-base bastions. are Sultan) (Istana thesturdyifcitadel that remains of theoriginal ways keen tobargain. geous fees (upto100,000Rp!)andisn’tal- knowntodemandratheroutra- has been his homeintheGamatufgange area. Umar dan Kebudayan building,2kmnorth.Ortry intheDinasPendidikanthe DIKNASoffice morningstry can beanamusingpalaver: curator,UmarMuhammad, the museum’s Opening hours are byarrangement; finding ered asmagical astheTernate equivalent. cassowary feathers. Thecrownisconsid- lish speakers. most picturesque accommodation option, Penginapan Seroja Penginapan Sleeping &Eating ( % PULAU TIDORE M ALUK Helpful Englishteacher all One blockinlandfromthemuseum, Ternate Maitara Pulau 0813 56027457) Pulau S EA ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ Bastiong Api Kiematubu (1730m) Gunung Marieku Tidore Pulau Kota Ternate Ome is ultra keen to meet Eng- isultrakeen tomeet Rum Benteng Tohula Cobo Lada-Ake Pulau Tomalou Mare

( Afa Afa Afa % Gurabunga Kraton 61456; JlSultanHassanud- a Taman Cobo Gunung Maitara

Maftutu Jaya Charter BoatsOnly Mare Kofo ) Byfar Soasio’s Seli Maregam 2miles 3km 0 0 Kalaodi Dowora Old Soasio kraton Muhlis Sehe Muhlis Dodinga Soasio Teluk Goto Akasahu Pantai royal

787 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU frills pottery. to you couldattempt tocharter aboatacross like Ternate orTidore proper canoffer. kelling andswimming,better thananything Pulau Maitara three-minute hopfromRumis speedboat A butpoorlymaintained. anticlockwise) two tall radio-masts. two tall negotiation. It’sunmarked besidethe right to notice itsnaturalhot-water pool.Fromhere popular ifunderwhelmingandalittlegrubby: of beach. have several though smallribbons standing, island coastroad.Noneof are these out- strips of homesoneithersideof theround- hotel under construction. popular littleparkwithatwo-roomhut- Maftutu andCobowhere from theapproach road. viewsofGlimpsed Ternate are inspiring only 150,000Rp terminal. delicacies atthemainmarket besideGoto looking cafébutopensonlysporadically. cious’ and dofu itional Tidorean language inwhich lush surroundingforest. thetrad- Localsuse (conical back-baskets) whenforaginginthe traditional ens andmanywomenuse guwige Curious onmossydry-stonebases. set traditional homesmadeof splitbamboo road,thevillageingly steep retains afew tiny The mostpicturesque village inTidore is AROUND TIDORE hard andthe Rooms are cleanandvery basic,bedsare sitting roomonstiltsabove theclearwaters. and anidyllicwaterfront terrace withjetty- hasalovelythe Seroja little orchid garden 788 board costsdouble. butthetwin-roomshavetoes, air-con. Full din) In Pondok Eky Most otherTidorean villages are simply viewsareThe nicestcoastal between There’s of alsoaselection curiouslocal Penginapan Sibu Penginapan Rum Incredibly basicbare-board roomscost Pulau Mare Mesjid Darussalam Mesjid means‘thankyou’, OTHER ISLANDS OF NORTH MALUKUOTHER ISLANDSOFNORTH ••Pulau Halmahera Lada-Ake Tomalou the road is quiet and beautiful (best theroadisquietandbeautiful(best basket-poles offer neststochick- Pantai Akasahu sterek , withclearbluewaters for snor- ( % , justbeyondthe bluehouse- , famed for itsattractive, no- . Set high upadisconcert- high . Set mandis 61168; JlTana-apa) ( per month lau ( % , there isajettywhere ) means‘(very) good’. have afew mosqui- 62413; JlSultanHassanud- northof Dowarais saki . Dailyrates by Taman Cobo Anappealing- means‘deli- sukur isa saloi ὄ ὄ areas of themore northernpen- developed are Christianmajority villages inseveral is predominantly there Muslim,although cursions onTernate. Religiously,theisland loyalists regrouping toresist Europeanin- (or sometimesTidore) royalfamily,orby orrenegadedeposed branch of theTernate generallyindependent sultanate, ruledbya Jailolo wouldoccasionallybreak awayasan toTernate, usuallysubservient Although overby events intinybutdominantTernate. largelyaround, itshistoryhasbeen shaped populatedislands. Sparsely andhardtoget anddozensof volcanoes offshoreseveral peninsulas, shaped withfourmountainous Maluku’s biggest islandiseccentrically PULAU HALMAHERA thing of anadventure. tourism sovisitswillbeoften prove some- None of islandshasanyreal these historyof MALUKU NORTH OTHER ISLANDSOF PULAU HALMAHERA Pulau Moti Islands Bacan Kasiruta Map (p780) Ternate See Pulau 0 0 Mandioli Pulau Pulau Makian Susupu Jailolo Map (p787) Lolori Tidore See Pulau Pulau Pulau Kayoa Sahu Merambati Gamtala See Enlargement Taboso Jailolo 6 miles 10 km Labuha Akelamo Porniti Akediri ὈὈ ὈὈ Bacan Pulau Sawadai Sidangoli Galela Goal Obi (40km) Ibu Payahe Mamuya Sofifi To Pulau Babang Kusu Patinti Tobelo Selat

Malifut

Danau Galela Wayabula Daru Saketa 0 0 To Manado(360km) Halmahera Weda Kao Kobe Daruba Mafa Dehegila Pulau Pulau www.lonelyplanet.com Rau Maba Bobale Pulau Teluk Weda Selat Obi Lemolemo Subaim Lolabata

Buli Wawama Trans Dua Gani H ALMAER Aketajawe Lolobata Labi Sangowo National Park Mira Morotai Berebere Pulau S EA 60 miles Patani 100 km a in Ternate (27,000Rp, onehour). arrivemorning speedboats fromDufa utes’ walkfromthelongjetty where regular Both are justbeyondthemarket, five min- santara dis d 60,000-87,500Rp) known locallyas birdof Wallace’s standard-wing paradise, hopeof rareslight spottingthe exceedingly NationalPark,Lolobata which offers a betheremoteplace might newAketajawe foreigner tovisitingenerations. Onesuch areasseveral where youcouldbethe first various boatlinks,meansthere are now newairroutes andalong withseveral building programmecurrently underway, dangoli. Halmahera hasfew roadsbuta remain visibleespeciallyinGalelaandSi- peaceful, manyshockinglyruinedchurches now in1999–2002andalthough fighting insula. Halmahera suffered severely from www.lonelyplanet.com ing area. some traditionalvillages inthesurround- Jailolo forexploring isapossiblebase hotels, withtwosimplebutacceptable ever ton astoneremainseven of Jailolo’s former the wholeislandof Halmahera. Today,not theterm Jailoloused (Gilolo)torefer to beaware historians though thatmedieval nate, Jailolo was anindependentsultanate, cone. beingincorporated Before byTer- mangroves of atthebase alushvolcanic little Jailolo portsteams gently amidthe Famed for itsfragrantdurians,attractive % Jailolo Goto inTidore (25,000Rp,twicedaily). to Sofifi Ternate fromeitherKota orfrom to Sidangoli.ForWedatake aspeedboat Tobelo, Galelaandtheeastcrossinitially the northwestern coastheadforJailolo. For fromTernate.access isbyspeedboat For Manado boat.Butbyfarthemostpopular (Sulawesi). There’s Tobelo– alsoaweekly twice amonthfromTernate and/orBitung Sangiang viaGalela. Pelni’svia WedaandMorotai thegold-miningtownofBacan, Buli,Gebe Merpati hasairlinkstoKao (forTobelo), THERE&AWAYGETTING . Therecently renovated ) 0922 (palace),abandonedinthe1730s.How- has private bathroomsinsome rooms. ( % loopsaroundHalmahera onceor Penginapan Camar Camar Penginapan 21305; dwithfan/air-con82,500/137,500Rp; iscleanwithshared burung bidadari OTHER ISLANDS OF NORTH MALUKU OTHER ISLANDSOFNORTH ••Pulau Halmahera ( % Penginapan Nu- Penginapan 21100; JlGufasa; . man- kra- different road. reached viaAkelamo onalonger, entirely a picturesque volcano-backed village that’s Penginapan SidangoliIndah Penginapan In theopposite direction, thebearable friendly, 300mnorthwestof the terminal. and apeacefulifviewlessterrace. Tobelo is majority Christian, soyoucan port. Incontrast tomost of NorthMaluku, Haven) which leadsquicklytothemain market/terminal byJlPelabuhan (aka Jl justnorthof bisected That’s roughly the Kemakmuran,(Jl alsocalledJlHSimange). more thantheonemainKao–Galela road Halmahera’s it’slittle only‘town’,although ofby ajigsaw islands,Tobeloisnorthern Surrounded bycoconutpalmsandfronted % Tobelo s/d withfan&mandi70,000/80,000Rp) ( to Ternate unsafe, water makesrough back passage speedboat ined church infive minutes. if However, turesque anddramaticallyru- stilt houses have finallydeparted by11.30am. be first toleave isvery hitandmiss.Most no queuingsystem, guessingwhich carwill with walk awayfromthejetty.However, full froma‘terminal’ justthree minutes’ three departwhen(nearly) hours). These to theirTobelo-bound Kijangs(75,000Rp, ters andtransporttoutstryingtolure you 11am) are of metbyacomicalmelee por- (15,000Rp, 40minutes, frequent before pullinginfromTernateSpeedboats % Sidangoli northern endof Merambati beach ing hall(see p790 ). Atthecalmer,far- traditionally thatched Lolori churches andthefloralvillages of beach. Enroute are somedistinctive takes youto An easybutvery pleasant Around Jailolo hour by coaster roadtoSidangoli(50,000Rp,one beside thenarrow,partlypotholedroller- has anothertraditional % You can see Sidangoli’sfew vaguelypic- You cansee Just 3.5kmeastof Jailolo, 0924 0921 328 471;JlCendani;d60,000Rp) and ojek Gamtala ). Merambati . Each maintains its maintains . Each Penginapan HandayaniPenginapan , alongblack-sand rumah adat rumah adat ( % hastiledfloors ojek isquietand Porniti 0813 40344905; excursion Susupu village meet- Taboso . It’s 789 is

, MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU meals 7500-12,500Rp; with air-con150,000Rp; camp. areare comically andthestaff ratherrough garden;cheap rooms den inanoff-road no fan/fan/air-cond55,000/66,000/110,000Rp theatrical the petrol station. the petrolstation. of thecentre, byatrackfromnear accessed is1.5kmsouthwest setting ful, semi-rural screamingly gaudypinksheets. Thepeace- are excellent andbrandnew,albeitwith 95,000/165,000Rp; Regina friendlier thanthenextdoor around anarrowpond.Clean,fresh and from thevery over-rated Hotel President. lo’s topoption.Thebuildingis50minland of aresection thisfamilyhomestay Tobe- s/tw withfan40,000/65,000Rp) Jaya Asean Penginapan SLEEPING &EATING BNI Bank INFORMATION it inpublic. (Muslim monthof fasting).Just don’tdrink get duringRamadan lunch, beer, andeven 790 no currency exchange. h 150,000-200,000Rp; 135,000Rp d&twwithfan66,000,air-con110,000- angkara; speaking owner. well kept English- byAnis,thedelightful Penginapan Meraksi Flower Meraksi Penginapan Rumah Makan Orion Makan Rumah Wisma Slasabila Villa HermosaII Villa Penginapan AlfaMas Penginapan Segera community. Tucked awayintothepalm-woven beamsyoumayspota than crudeinnuendo,theirintended symbolismisasthe‘feet’ (representing stability)ofthe dating fromthevillages’foundation(1910atLolori).Inthisarea, each ofJailolo,manyfinethatchedexamplesstillstand,someHowever, intheChristianvillagesnorth TV. Many have disappeared, perhapsburntinthe1999–2002troublesortastelessly modernised. tures doublingasvillagemeetingplacesandgeneralhang-outs. Someeven have acommunal come tohavinga‘traditional’building. The mostattractive are airyopen-sidedthatchedstruc- of Known asa RUMAH ADAT 7.30am-2pm) Opposite the market; 24-hourATM7.30am-2pm) Oppositethemarket; but OTHER ISLANDS OF NORTH MALUKUOTHER ISLANDSOFNORTH ••Pulau Halmahera sasadu, ( % (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Kemakmuran; (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlKemakmuran; (distilledpalmwine)isquaffed fromthesecups,but onlyonspecialoccasions. a kangkung 21149; Jl Kemakmuran; dwithfan/air-con 21149; JlKemakmuran; hairyballshungfrompalmpennantsattheendofanelongated apexbeam.Rather ) The bestroomsinthenew baileu a a ) h . ) Lemon-and-lime rooms Lemon-and-lime ( a ( in theLease Islands,a % % hotplate (10,000Rp) 9.30am-10pm Mon-Sat) ( ( ) % % 22389; Jl Kemakmuran; d 22389; JlKemakmuran; Half of therooms 21887; Jl Parahyangan; d21887; JlParahyangan; ( Basic butneatand Basic % 21520; Jl Kemakmuran; 21520; JlKemakmuran; 21543; Jl Kemakmuran; 21543; JlKemakmuran; 21051; JlPelabuhan; ( % 22449; JlBhay- Penginapan a ) Hid- Its rumah adat diagonally opposite theHotel President. ofhas subtletangs garlicandginger. It’s fax 22322; Jl Kemakmuran; fax 22322;JlKemakmuran; Tobelo hasnoairportbut THERE&AWAYGETTING steal thecoconuts! Sandy yourowndrinkingwater.you’ll need Don’t own. Mosthave beaches, but golden sandy inhabited coral-fringed islandallof your a chartered boatyoucan headforanun- outrigger (2000Rp)fromTobelo port.With Pulau Kumo Picturesque andwith snorkelling potential, Islands Tobelo’s Offshore turning Mondays.Pelni’s (265,000Rp, 21hours) onWednesdays,re- to/from Tobelo(35,000Rp,70minutes). Manado toKao, linked withroadtransfers three frombothTernate timesweekly and accessed from accessed hour) butrelatively rare toKao. are fairlyfrequent toGalela(15,000Rp,one they’ll pickyouupatyourhotel. Bemos 3.30amand4am.Bookahead between (75,000Rp, three hours) leave antisocially gan, 6kmnorthof Tobelo. fromPelabuhan Morotai Penyeban-serves Inerie On MondayandWednesdaymorningsthe (30,000Rp, twohours) fromthemainport. Bitung 91,000Rp. costs62,000Rp,Tobelo– Tobelo–Bacan verse. Theschedule issomewhatvariable. inre-Tobelo–Bitung route, orthesame on aTernate–Babang (Bacan)–Gebe–Buli– round Halmahera fromBitung(Sulawesi) is the nearest a Malukan village is likely to villageislikely isthenearest aMalukan The Virtually allKijangstoSidangoli thereFor Morotai are dailyspeedboats ferry (15,000Rp,fourhours) also KM Elisabet II isjusta10-minute ridebyshared Daru rumah adat sie-sie , isreputed tohave great h (bamboo pipe-cup). (bamboopipe-cup). www.lonelyplanet.com 8am-4pm Mon-Sat) sails toManado sails ua BobaleIsland Pulau Merpati displaysapair Sangiang ( % loops 21167; flies , wards thelake. the mainroadwhere itswingsinlandto- unmarked incentralSoasio,just off house field. TheMerpati ladylives inatotally Ternate (113,800Rp)fromGalala’sair- (50,000Rp)and toMorotai day flights in centralSoasio,where race looksdirectly outover thelake. domed IgobulMosque. Itsnarrowrear ter- Dua Putera 150meastof theoddlybulbous behindtheWartel room familyhomestay Galela Area Area Galela only toguests. IIlendssnorkelsmosa withoutcharge, but snorkelling anddiving.Tobelo’sVillaHer- www.lonelyplanet.com Morotai’s crumpled mountain hinterland crumpled mountain Morotai’s the Japanese defenders that retreated to pledge toretake thePhilippines. Among ment of MacArthur’s General ‘Iwillreturn’ to bombManila fulfil- tobits–the sad when itwascaptured bytheAlliesandused duringWWII.Itleapttoimportance base populated islandbecameaminorJapanese Halmahera’sOff northerntip,thissparsely % PULAU MOROTAI ( ( rafts, bullock cartsandfishermen onbamboo With alushvolcanicbackdrop,plentyof % means ‘thankyou’and daloha shop. ber Baru the unmarked opposite Sum- pinkhouse On thesouthbank, the 4kmof north-bank roadnearest Soasio. around thelake butthebestviewsare along A 16kmloopof right asphaltroad goes ruins of burntoutchurches andmosques. growing tropicalfoliage hassoftened the road blockshave mostlygoneandquick- ing the1999–2002troubles,buttoday The Galeladistrictsuffered especiallydur- 1.5km beyondSoasio(akaGalelatown). Galela area. It’s25kmnorthof Tobelo, main attractionof thegently attractive eternal question,‘Where are yougoing?’. than % % There’s accommodation alsoacceptable Galela hasitsownlanguage inwhich Merpati 0923 0924 611349; Jl Raya Soakonora;d100,000Rp) 611349; JlRaya 611221; twfan/air-con100,000/150,000; jalan Danau Galela means‘good’, ( % 611008) istheidealanswerto (DanauDuma)isthe Penginapan TalagaPenginapan Maloha OTHER ISLANDS OF NORTH MALUKU OTHER ISLANDSOFNORTH ••Pulau Morotai hasbargain Wednes- to-tagi tagi to-tagi sukur dala Penginapan Daloha Penginapan isathree- rather a ) is the nextmorning. in Ternate (45,000Rp,twohours), returning leavetration. Speedboats dailytoBastiong proportionately powerfulintheadminis- Ternate, where they’re reckoned tobedis- many Makian islanders remain inKota kian hasnoformalaccommodationand nowresettled,1988. Although PulauMa- in 1760 andcausingafull-scaleevacuation rare but deadly,killingover 2000peoplein the cone’snorthernflank.Itseruptionsare volcano withaphotogenically huge gashin ists are very rare. six sometimes-open from Tobeloare sporadic. but there’s noroadfromDarubaandboats gram from50,000Rp),hassurfingpotential the oddWWIIbullet. and islittered withgiantclamshells and spongy,white sand Ithasdelightful base. MacArthur’s temporary WWIIcommand Sum fishing smackscantake youto Daruba lies hiddeninacoconutplantation. a rustingUSamphibiouslander from Morotai’s village from Morotai’s capital Trans Dua ible atovergrown WWII battlesites near over. Bunkers are andrustybullet-cases vis- in 1973didhediscover thatthewarwas was thefamousPrivate Nakamura:only for exploring. abula but roadstoMiraandWay- along therough Twice aday,overloaded stagger minibuses four hours) departTuesdayandThursday. from Tobelo. Ferries toTobelo(12,500Rp, accessisbyferry Otherwise orspeedboat Ternatebetween andDarubaviaGalela. small islet of Maluku’s best snorkelling, the off notably itreportedlyHowever hassomeof North is notespecially impressive above water. The low-slung,reptilian ridge of &PULAUGURAICIPULAU KAYOA topped Moored Halmahera’s off westcoast,spiky- PULAU MAKIAN Merpati &Away There Getting Daruba hastwosimple Berebere , a beautiful desert islandthatwas, abeautifuldesert Pulau Makian . That’s35muddyminutes by ( % ojeks , famousforitslobsters (per kilo- 21063, Daruba) Pulau Guraici are much more comfortable isanimpressive, 1357m rumah makan operates flights where the penginapan Daruba Pulau Kayoa Pulau Sum (amfibi) . Tour- where kepala

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ojek 791 MALUKU MALUKU MALUKU with bathroom50,000/100,000Rp; has an orchid garden and staff soobliging has anorchid gardenandstaff ha’s centralmarket, place thisclean,bright lows off shal- by volcanicbubbling.Thesite isinsea patch of ferric-orange pebbles discoloured Penginapan Borero Indah Borero Penginapan Sleeping &Eating Localsreckonbemo fromLabuha. picturesque best placeforaswimisthepebblebeach off It’s 15minutes by ful bayof fishingboatsand swayingpalms. offer togowandering. excuses moat. a stagnant Barnevald Benteng geratedly fort, fortified Portuguese-Dutch andfeaturesest guesthouses asmall,exag- from Ternate. of Ithasaselection mod- languid west-facing getaway bay,isasleepy Labuha Pleasant % PULAU BACAN visitors showup. in case desa 792 exciting aswatching your viewing thissmall‘waterfall’ever isabout as (Dutch Water) isa touristattraction.How- The island’s sights areThe island’ssights fairlypitiful,but 0927 reputedly twobasiccottages maintains OTHER ISLANDS OF NORTH MALUKUOTHER ISLANDSOFNORTH ••Pulau Bacan curlsalmostimperceptiblyarounda Kupal Pulau Bacan Sawadai village, inanachingly beauti- , lyingovergrown behind , whose laid-back , whose capital village, 35minutes by ojek from Labuha. The fromLabuha. ( % mandi a 21024; JlPasar 2; s/d ) NearLabu- Air Panas overflow. Air Belanda isa doubles have air-con. Someof the they compete tobringyoutea. backtracking toTernate. lar onwardconnectiontoAmbonwithout ObiIslands)there isnoregu-(near Laiwui, boatscontinuetoJikotamu await. Although antisocially early(around4am)butbemos arrivebang, 16kmeastof These Labuha. (Ternate)run dailyfromBastiong toBa- hours) boats(80,000Rp,eight Overnight serve simplerice-and-fish dinners. serve more dingy. ifslightly family home,thisisalsopleasant, Southwest of Islands,the theBacan SULA ISLANDS pati airportis4kmeastofLabuha’s town. &Away There Getting fan 55,000/77,000Rp;dwithair-con100,000Rp; populated. Islands is infamousfortreacherous whirlpools. are boatsveryseas rough, slowandthearea way tolinknorthandcentralMaluku. But Sanana–Ambon boatasanadventurous to Sananacouldbecombinedwiththeslow orboatsfromTernate flights Twice-weekly and adecrepit Dutch fortneartheport. Pondok Indah Half adozen miniature ( % are remote, forested andsparsely 21603) Sanana has weekly flights toTernate. flights hasweekly ( % hasabasic 21048; Jl Oesman Syah; s/dwith Syah; 21048; JlOesman www.lonelyplanet.com rumah makan penginapan penginapan a ) Ina Mer- Sula www.lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright theterms and conditionsonoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasier foryoutouse,accessthischapterisnotdigitally Tomake © LonelyPlanetPublications 793