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€ 15 Issue 02 KALAF EPALANGA a Magazine B U T Igra Nts of Al K Issue 02 KALAF EPALANGA € 15 NANSEN agazin m e A a • b o s u d t n m i k i g l l r a a f n t o s THE LUSOPHONE LUMINARY Hailing from Angola, once the jewel in the crown of the Portuguese empire, KALAF EPALANGA has made a name for himself as Lisbon’s conscience – and an unusually popular one, at that. Words Vanessa Ellingham 12 Photography Rafael Duarte When I first meet KALAF, it’s difficult for show as a mix of Portuguese-speakers from way of saying thank you to migrant commu- room in the middle of a ghetto”. That’s also me to square the unassuming beanpole with all over the Lusosphere and “party people nities,” explains KALAF. “And not necessar- what caught the attention of English Tamil Coke-bottle glasses cutting a dash across the intent on digging their way to the southern ily just those in Buraca.” rapper M.I.A., who guested on Buraka Som lobby with the rowdy MC I’ve been watching hemisphere using only their feet. I can’t recall The five members of Buraka Som Sistema Sistema’s deliciously irritating track “Sound earlier that morning on YouTube. He’s traded a better atmosphere in half a lifetime of bass- – an almost-translation of “Buraca Sound of Kuduro” in 2008. the oversized graphic t-shirts and affected bin worshipping.” System” – have roots in former Portuguese M.I.A. says that on hearing Buraka Som swagger of his rapper days for a more Wes colonies including Angola, Mozambique and Sistema for the first time, she “felt like there Anderson-adjacent look of tailored trousers Brazil. They set out to prove that the places was some sort of universal language felt and and a neat red beanie. “We felt like they came from were capable of producing spoken amongst all third world countries.” But then of course it is precisely this knack global popular culture, too. “We felt like it “We were all coming from oppressed plac- for shapeshifting that has made KALAF a it was important was important for us to stop importing cul- es,” she remembers, “and we were happy and much-admired champion of Lisbon, reach- ture,” recalls KALAF, “to create our own cul- proud of just being in the jungle or the sun ing across its diverse communities. ture and use that to communicate as equals in a shanty town with broken buckets and We meet at Soho House Berlin, a private for us to stop with the rest of the world.” one speaker and one flip-flop for making members’ club frequented by the low-key famous and those who pay to sit near them. importing culture, As soon as we are past the receptionist and sitting down at our table, KALAF makes a to create our own point of telling me that his membership card is “the last symbol of my international jet- and use that to setter life”. It’s a credit-card sized piece of cardboard with a tiny dent in one corner, but communicate clearly it’s still working for him. KALAF is a recovering rock star, best as equals with known as a founding MC of the rambunc- tious, bone-shaking music project Buraka Som Sistema that burst out of a Lisbon night- the rest of the on a personal tour of Lisbon. of Lisbon. tour on a personal KALAF takes Team NANSEN Team takes KALAF club and onto the global stage in 2006. Buraka fused contemporary European elec- world.” tronic dance music with kuduro, a fran- tic dance beat developed in Angola when The group’s list of more official achieve- KALAF was growing up there in the 1980s. ments include an M T V Europe Music Prize This combination produced a distinctly bois- and collaborations with M.I.A. and Diplo. terous sound, occassionally categorised as By the end of the decade, football fans around The group aimed to empower kids from music with one machine. That’s how it all “world music” by clueless record store staff. the globe were thrashing the PlayStation suburbs like Buraca and back in Angola to felt.” KALAF might not have been living in The hybrid music project, which KALAF game F I FA 10 to the menacing rhythm of take pride in their own musical styles, to hold quite so dire circumstances, but he and his describes today as “an electronic dance carni- Buraka’s “Kalemba (Wegue Wegue)”. them in the same esteem as acts from the US bandmates came from cities and neighbour- val machine”, was active from 2006 to 2016, But the group had its sights set on more or UK. “The best way to empower people,” hoods where many people were. That was the taking their multicultural musical mashup to than just the classic music career check- says KALAF, “is to show them they’re capa- reality they wanted to speak to, the people major festivals across Europe and beyond. boxes. In naming their project after a pre- ble of doing something themselves.” they aimed to connect with. Buraka provided an exhilarating concert dominantly African migrant neighbourhood One way to communicate that idea was As the group began locking down dates at experience. The Guardian’s music critic Kitty in Lisbon called Buraca, the group aimed to to use rudimentary recording tools: “cheap major European festivals like Glastonbury Empire described the crowd at one London recognise migrants of all kinds. “It was our computers and cracked software, in a tiny and Roskilde, the music blogs hurrying to 14 KALAF EPALANGA Angola – Portugal – Germany 15 explain kuduro to readers who had woken His Angolan passport, however, would take and not having a European passport kind of up the morning after wondering what it was many months to renew. summarises my life on tour,” says KALAF, they’d heard last night, kids in the streets of “We had that one summer to ‘make it’,” with an easy laugh. “I got to know embassy Luanda could be found dancing their gutsy he says. “So I decided to do the most impor- processes inside and out.” kuduro moves to Buraka Som Sistema with tant shows, the last two shows of the tour: On top of Buraka’s heavy touring sched- fresh pride, knowing that the sounds and one in Sweden and one in Norway.” KALAF ule, KALAF had signed up to pen a weekly rhythms that belonged to them were being would be travelling without a passport. column for Portugal’s Público newspaper. spread and admired around the world. Knowing that passport checks were more He wrote about his experiences as an Ango- frequent on planes than buses, KALAF de- lan in Portugal and what it was like touring BARRIERS TO ENTRY cided that rather than flying with the rest of around the world, but he also used the op- But with fame and touring came additional the group, he would hedge his bets and take portunity to draw attention to the bureau- challenges for KALAF. These days he has the bus instead, setting off from Lisbon 24 cratic struggles faced by migrants like him. both Angolan and Portuguese citizenship, hours before the rest of the group. He remembers that during one visa appoint- but back when the group was preparing to “The first show went really well,” he -re ment at the British Embassy, a staff member set out on its first European tour, he was calls. “But then before the last show, crossing apologised to him personally for a delay after a migrant without EU citizenship and his into Norway, I got stopped.” KALAF was ar- having read his most recent column lament- Angolan passport was hardly a door-opener. rested, his residence card practically useless ing their lengthy processing times. His need to acquire visas ahead of the tour without a valid passport. His back-up option, KALAF knows that the visa rigmarole he involved additional planning, with KALAF a years-ago expired passport, only served to managed to work his way through back then in some instances making extra trips ahead support the border police’s impression of him still prevents plenty of other great artists of the tour to pick up paperwork in advance. as someone who shouldn’t be there. from countries like Angola from breaking During the tour, KALAF lost his passport KALAF used his one phone call to alert his through to an international audience. Today with his Portuguese residence card inside. bandmates to his detainment and the music he tries to use his experiences to shed light Buraka Som Sistema was forced to cancel a festival’s legal team stepped in. KALAF made on these challenges in his interactions with When KALAF isn’t stopping to greet people in Lisbon’s streets, incoming calls keep him busy. number of shows so that he could return to it to the festival 45 minutes before the Buraka others in the music industry, because “when Portugal and collect a new residence card. Som Sistema set. “But somehow the arrest I tell my peers how difficult it can be, they often haven’t thought about it before”. academic and activist Joacine Katar Moreira, Writing his newspaper column became she congratulates me on nabbing KALAF for his outlet for more complex ideas. “Whatever our magazine, calling him “the most famous I wanted to grasp intellectually, I put in my living black person in Portugal today”. column. Then I could just be a rock star with Buraka Som Sistema would perform for my colleagues and travel around the world,” the final time in 2016, proud of having se- he explains, grinning.
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