Issue 02 KALAF EPALANGA € 15 NANSEN

agazin m e A a • b o

s u

d

t

n

m i

k

i

g

l

l

r

a a

f n t o

s THE LUSOPHONE LUMINARY

Hailing from Angola, once the jewel in the crown of the Portuguese empire, KALAF EPALANGA has made a name for himself as ’s conscience – and an unusually popular one, at that.

Words Vanessa Ellingham 12 Photography Rafael Duarte When I first meet KALAF, it’s difficult for show as a mix of Portuguese-speakers from way of saying thank you to migrant commu- room in the middle of a ghetto”. That’s also me to square the unassuming beanpole with all over the Lusosphere and “party people nities,” explains KALAF. “And not necessar- what caught the attention of English Tamil Coke-bottle glasses cutting a dash across the intent on digging their way to the southern ily just those in Buraca.” rapper M.I.A., who guested on Buraka Som lobby with the rowdy MC I’ve been watching hemisphere using only their feet. I can’t recall The five members of Buraka Som Sistema Sistema’s deliciously irritating track “Sound earlier that morning on YouTube. He’s traded a better atmosphere in half a lifetime of bass- – an almost-translation of “Buraca Sound of ” in 2008. the oversized graphic t-shirts and affected bin worshipping.” System” – have roots in former Portuguese M.I.A. says that on hearing Buraka Som swagger of his rapper days for a more Wes colonies including Angola, Mozambique and Sistema for the first time, she “felt like there Anderson-adjacent look of tailored trousers Brazil. They set out to prove that the places was some sort of universal language felt and and a neat red beanie. “We felt like they came from were capable of producing spoken amongst all third world countries.” But then of course it is precisely this knack global popular culture, too. “We felt like it “We were all coming from oppressed plac- for shapeshifting that has made KALAF a it was important was important for us to stop importing cul- es,” she remembers, “and we were happy and much-admired champion of Lisbon, reach- ture,” recalls KALAF, “to create our own cul- proud of just being in the jungle or the sun ing across its diverse communities. ture and use that to communicate as equals in a shanty town with broken buckets and We meet at Soho House Berlin, a private for us to stop with the rest of the world.” one speaker and one flip-flop for making members’ club frequented by the low-key famous and those who pay to sit near them. importing culture, As soon as we are past the receptionist and sitting down at our table, KALAF makes a to create our own point of telling me that his membership card is “the last symbol of my international jet- and use that to setter life”. It’s a credit-card sized piece of cardboard with a tiny dent in one corner, but communicate clearly it’s still working for him. KALAF is a recovering rock star, best as equals with known as a founding MC of the rambunc- tious, bone-shaking music project Buraka Som Sistema that burst out of a Lisbon night- the rest of the on a personal tour of Lisbon. of Lisbon. tour on a personal KALAF takes Team NANSEN Team takes KALAF club and onto the global stage in 2006. Buraka fused contemporary European elec- world.” tronic dance music with kuduro, a fran- tic dance beat developed in Angola when The group’s list of more official achieve- KALAF was growing up there in the 1980s. ments include an M T V Music Prize This combination produced a distinctly bois- and collaborations with M.I.A. and Diplo. terous sound, occassionally categorised as By the end of the decade, football fans around The group aimed to empower kids from music with one machine. That’s how it all “world music” by clueless record store staff. the globe were thrashing the PlayStation suburbs like Buraca and back in Angola to felt.” KALAF might not have been living in The hybrid music project, which KALAF game F I FA 10 to the menacing rhythm of take pride in their own musical styles, to hold quite so dire circumstances, but he and his describes today as “an electronic dance carni- Buraka’s “Kalemba (Wegue Wegue)”. them in the same esteem as acts from the US bandmates came from cities and neighbour- val machine”, was active from 2006 to 2016, But the group had its sights set on more or UK. “The best way to empower people,” hoods where many people were. That was the taking their multicultural musical mashup to than just the classic music career check- says KALAF, “is to show them they’re capa- reality they wanted to speak to, the people major festivals across Europe and beyond. boxes. In naming their project after a pre- ble of doing something themselves.” they aimed to connect with. Buraka provided an exhilarating concert dominantly African migrant neighbourhood One way to communicate that idea was As the group began locking down dates at experience. The Guardian’s music critic Kitty in Lisbon called Buraca, the group aimed to to use rudimentary recording tools: “cheap major European festivals like Glastonbury Empire described the crowd at one London recognise migrants of all kinds. “It was our computers and cracked software, in a tiny and Roskilde, the music blogs hurrying to

14 KALAF EPALANGA Angola – – Germany 15 explain kuduro to readers who had woken His Angolan passport, however, would take and not having a European passport kind of up the morning after wondering what it was many months to renew. summarises my life on tour,” says KALAF, they’d heard last night, kids in the streets of “We had that one summer to ‘make it’,” with an easy laugh. “I got to know embassy Luanda could be found dancing their gutsy he says. “So I decided to do the most impor- processes inside and out.” kuduro moves to Buraka Som Sistema with tant shows, the last two shows of the tour: On top of Buraka’s heavy touring sched- fresh pride, knowing that the sounds and one in Sweden and one in Norway.” KALAF ule, KALAF had signed up to pen a weekly rhythms that belonged to them were being would be travelling without a passport. column for Portugal’s Público newspaper. spread and admired around the world. Knowing that passport checks were more He wrote about his experiences as an Ango- frequent on planes than buses, KALAF de- lan in Portugal and what it was like touring BARRIERS TO ENTRY cided that rather than flying with the rest of around the world, but he also used the op- But with fame and touring came additional the group, he would hedge his bets and take portunity to draw attention to the bureau- challenges for KALAF. These days he has the bus instead, setting off from Lisbon 24 cratic struggles faced by migrants like him. both Angolan and Portuguese citizenship, hours before the rest of the group. He remembers that during one visa appoint- but back when the group was preparing to “The first show went really well,” he -re ment at the British Embassy, a staff member set out on its first European tour, he was calls. “But then before the last show, crossing apologised to him personally for a delay after a migrant without EU citizenship and his into Norway, I got stopped.” KALAF was ar- having read his most recent column lament- Angolan passport was hardly a door-opener. rested, his residence card practically useless ing their lengthy processing times. His need to acquire visas ahead of the tour without a valid passport. His back-up option, KALAF knows that the visa rigmarole he involved additional planning, with KALAF a years-ago expired passport, only served to managed to work his way through back then in some instances making extra trips ahead support the border police’s impression of him still prevents plenty of other great artists of the tour to pick up paperwork in advance. as someone who shouldn’t be there. from countries like Angola from breaking During the tour, KALAF lost his passport KALAF used his one phone call to alert his through to an international audience. Today with his Portuguese residence card inside. bandmates to his detainment and the music he tries to use his experiences to shed light Buraka Som Sistema was forced to cancel a festival’s legal team stepped in. KALAF made on these challenges in his interactions with When KALAF isn’t stopping to greet people in Lisbon’s streets, incoming calls keep him busy. number of shows so that he could return to it to the festival 45 minutes before the Buraka others in the music industry, because “when Portugal and collect a new residence card. Som Sistema set. “But somehow the arrest I tell my peers how difficult it can be, they often haven’t thought about it before”. academic and activist Joacine Katar Moreira, Writing his newspaper column became she congratulates me on nabbing KALAF for

his outlet for more complex ideas. “Whatever our magazine, calling him “the most famous I wanted to grasp intellectually, I put in my living black person in Portugal today”. column. Then I could just be a rock star with Buraka Som Sistema would perform for my colleagues and travel around the world,” the final time in 2016, proud of having se- he explains, grinning. cured a spot for kuduro on the global map

p. 90). p. What might have been an exhausting ar- and paved the way for a new generation of rangement for another touring artist was, for Portuguese-speaking artists with roots in KALAF, a useful way to expend the energy other continents ( p. 40). he apparently had left over after whooping By then, KALAF was already busy turning it up on stage. This double-whammy would his experience at the Norwegian border into in recent years ( years in recent allow him to cultivate the broad influence the first chapter of his auto-fictional novel. he enjoys in Portugal today, stretching from For KALAF, storytelling has always been young clubgoers to middle-aged newspa- at the centre of his work. In fact, the first time

Stopping at a newspaper kiosk, KALAF reflects that that reflects KALAF kiosk, newspaper a at Stopping per readers. In fact, when I later meet one we meet, he is eager to clear up what he sees a number of his favourite independent stores have closed have stores independent favourite of his number a of our contributors for this issue, feminist as his “lack of musical talent”. As we share a

16 KALAF EPALANGA Angola – Portugal – Germany 17 pot of ginger tea, he explains that for him, the gained independence from Portugal in 1975, music is simply one of a number of vehicles only to descend almost immediately into one for communicating his ideas about the world. of the bloodiest civil wars in recent history. “In the end it’s all about communication KALAF was born three years into the conflict. and whether you’re able to do it or not,” he Somewhat ironically, a number of key mo- says. “That’s how I measure success. If I’m ments in Angolan history have connections able to make you feel something, then mis- to the central Berlin district in which KALAF sion accomplished.” and I have met for our interview. The weekly newspaper column KALAF started writing in 2005, just before Buraka Som Sistema got cracking, was a commit- “In the end ment he kept up for more than 10 years, eventually turning a set of the columns into it’s all about a book. Unfortunately his books – there are three in total – are only available in communication Portuguese, at least for now. and whether THE WEIGHT OF HISTORY Two years ago, KALAF’s preoccupation with storytelling had the weight of history added you’re able to do to it. Years after having taken up writing, KALAF inherited his maternal grandfather’s it or not. That’s diaries. These revealed that his grandfather, who had worked as a politician in Angola, how I measure had also dreamed of becoming a writer. “My grandfather’s name was Faustino success.” Epalanga. But during colonisation and the Portuguese occupation in Angola,” explains During the 1884–1885 Berlin Conference, KALAF, “those traditional names were not European leaders carved up Africa, impos- considered European enough. One of the ing borders around Angola and deeming it policies of colonisation was to strip out peo- a Portuguese territory. These decisions were ple’s memories, people’s languages, history.” made just a short walk from where we sit eat- At that time, if Angolans wanted to secure ing our pumpkin stew and avocado on toast employment, they were forced to take on today. And later, during the Angolan Civil Portuguese names ( p. 32). Faustino War (1975–2002), which quickly became a Epalanga became Faustino Alfredo out of ne- proxy for the Cold War, East Germany made cessity. Now, two generations later, KALAF the decision from its seat here in Berlin to – who was born Kalaf Ângelo – has renamed send paratroopers to Angola to support the himself Kalaf Epalanga, symbolically reclaim- Communist side. In fact, the bulbous New ing his people’s right to their identity. Objectivity building that houses the exclu- The first seventeen years of KALAF’s life sive members’ club in which we meet today were lived under civil war. Following four was previously home to the East German centuries of slavery and colonisation, Angola governing party’s central committee.

Angola – Portugal – Germany 19 The Angolan Civil War dragged on until a rotation of visiting cousins, where the family life, or that I haven’t enjoyed the outcome.” and I don’t think that was the best scenario or final ceasefire in 2002. By then, at least one spent most of its time outside on the shady But the loss is enormous and ever-present. situation in which to build our relationship. million people had been killed and 10 million patio, the kids alternating between climbing “Travelling through Africa today,” says I felt like we were somehow forced on him. landmines concealed in the soil, many thou- the mango tree and the coconut tree. Every KALAF, “you can feel that we haven’t start- And that’s what he made me feel, too.” sands of which still threaten Angolan lives to evening, when children’s television program- ed the healing process yet. We had the slave KALAF spent his time shopping for books this day. Landmine clearance, promoted by ming ended for the night, a teenage KALAF trade, we had colonisation, we had civil wars and records, “because I felt like, when you’re Princess Diana during a 1997 visit to Angola, would wander down the street and flirt with triggered by the Cold War. Then there’s the in Europe, that’s what you do: you buy books remains an ongoing operation. his crushes over their fences. economic side, because Africa is still exploit- and records to take back home,” hoping that But the war was still somehow present. ed to this day. And you say, ‘man, how do you the war would soon be over, allowing him Benguela became a refuge to those displaced position yourself? Do I forget that, do I erase to return to Angola. “As soon as the country “We had the by the conflict and, inside the family home, that from my mind?’ I have cousins who were gets stabilised,” he told himself, “I’m out.” KALAF was raised on war rations, the spec- child soldiers. How do you heal that person?” After two years, it was KALAF’s father slave trade, we tre of compulsory military service creeping Another area in which KALAF is reckon- who decided to return to Angola, offering ever closer. “You grew up knowing that time ing with Angolan history is language. The him the option to do the same. But by then, had colonisation, was approaching,” remembers KALAF. “You dream of an indigenous cultural resurgence KALAF was beginning to find a place for know you’re going to serve in the army and following Angola’s 1975 independence from himself in Lisbon, the city he has called “the we had civil that shit can happen once you get there.” Portugal was quickly thwarted by Angolans most African of European capitals”. He says as children, he and his brother “sub- taking up arms against other Angolans. This consciously knew about the glass ceiling, meant that KALAF didn’t have the chance wars triggered the limitations. When you’re at war, sure, to learn his native Umbundu and was raised you aspire to better things and hope that speaking Portuguese. by the Cold War. you’re going to have peace. But then 10 years “It’s very common in my generation to find pass, 20 years pass, 30 years pass, and it’s people who don’t speak our native language,” Then there’s the everything you know.” he explains. “But now the younger generation It was only in 2002 that KALAF, aged 24, has started learning it, so my nephews are economic side of was able to travel through Angola by car for starting to learn that in school, thank God. the first time. “That’s really when we started I’m even thinking about spending a year in it, because Africa discovering our country, to be honest.” Angola, taking my kids and putting them in What KALAF saw of his country by car school just so they can learn the native lan- was “amazing. To the point that I’m really re- guage.” Reclaiming the Epalanga name is just is still exploited sentful of our leaders,” he says. “I think their one step in KALAF’s plan for reconciliation. selfishness and their lack of vision blocked to this day. How generations of Angolans from being able to AN UNWILLING MIGRANT experience their own country. Because we When KALAF was 17, his parents decided do you position have everything in Angola: the sea, forest, he and his brother would move to Lisbon desert, and when you’re in the middle of that to complete their education away from the yourself?” you understand so many more things about civil war. Sent to live with his father in the yourself, like your history, your name, your Portuguese capital, KALAF spent the first Raised in the coastal city of Benguela, for- culture, what holds you, your ground.” year refusing to unpack his bag. merly a major slave trade post, KALAF didn’t “To this day I’m still processing it,” he “I didn’t want to stay,” he says, “I hated it. see conflict with his own eyes until 1992. adds. “It’s not something I’ve come to terms Not so much Portugal, not so much Lisbon, KALAF remembers his childhood home as with yet, that my life could have been dif- but I hated the fact that I didn’t get along KALAF reads a magazine in the a “paradise”, a house filled with an unending ferent. I’m not saying I haven’t enjoyed my with my father and I didn’t want to force it, Louie Louie record store.

20 KALAF EPALANGA Angola – Portugal – Germany 21

“I was downtown grabbing everything,” KALAF’S POSTCOLONIAL VISION identity, available not only to those from for- he recalls. “Art, culture, everything I could get As well as the lingual and cultural ease of liv- mer colonies but to the descendants of those my hands on, I was getting into it.” ing in Lisbon, KALAF felt like it was a place who oppressed them, as well. KALAF canned his studies to focus on an in which he could make an impact. “I’m also trying to forge my identity be- increasingly rich cultural life as a flâneur, “I feel that the contributions that we as yond the fact that I speak Portuguese,” he working in a pizzeria to pay his rent and Angolans can make in the land of the colo- adds, “beyond the fact that the majority of performing at poetry slam events. Just like niser, let’s say, are far more important than my country was conquered and colonised by his grandfather, KALAF dreamed of becom- just being in our own country. I feel like my a European nation. I want to live beyond the ing a writer, but the writers in his crowd presence demands that people acknowledge idea that black African identity is moulded warned him about how tough it could be history in a different way,” he says. “And I feel on top of the Atlantic slave trade,” KALAF to earn a living that way. One thing KALAF the importance of, and carry the weight of, em- explains, his voice creeping higher. “So I’m had going for him was his deep voice, which powering the African community in Portugal.” working on myself, but I’m also working on commanded the attention of musicians and It’s a weight I see KALAF carrying with other people, because I know that we as a producers who invited him to collaborate. grace, as my inbox dings with a two-page people are much better than this.” “I saw that as an opportunity to keep on writ- list of contributors he’s emailed me, peo- ing and get to say my stuff.” ple from within that community he’d like to see us work with in this issue of NANSEN “If the Magazine. On a lunch break during our pho- “I feel like toshoot in Lisbon, KALAF praises our young opportunity photographer Rafael Duarte, who has roots in Cape Verde, telling him just how much a presented my presence recent music video he’d shot had moved him. KALAF pauses at the edge Actions like these form the daily grind of of the Tagus River. demands KALAF’s sweeping vision for Portugal and itself, would its former territories, of a Lusophone identity that people Eventually KALAF solved his chicken-egg ( p. 86) that extends far beyond the likes we repeat dilemma by employing himself. Having es- of Ferdinand Magellan and Vasco da Gama, acknowledge tablished a strong network in Lisbon’s music those explorers memorialised in statues all what they did scene through his poetry slam work, KALAF over the former Portuguese empire and other history in a started a record label with his future Buraka outposts they claimed as their own. to us?” Som Sistema bandmate Branco. “I see Portugal beyond the role of those As KALAF’s music career began to ramp men and I would like this nation to make As a writer, KALAF sees his role as being different way.” up, other European cities became attrac- them accountable,” says KALAF, hitting his present to observe, document and interro- tive potential homes. London, Madrid and rhetorical stride. “I would like to see this na- gate the relationship between Portugal and Having left his studies behind, KALAF Barcelona all beckoned, but Lisbon remained tion believe that their sense of identity is Angola. For example, during Portugal’s eco- now faced the tricky visa dance so many of an active choice. “The proximity to Angolan far more important than discovering Brazil nomic crisis, which began in 2009, a num- us sit up late trying to figure out. His student reality, I didn’t want to lose that,” he says. – because they didn’t discover anything – ber of wealthy Angolans began buying up visa had lapsed and he had no way of secur- “I considered moving to Spain, because it beyond colonising Brazil, colonising Angola, property in Lisbon, a move many referred to ing another one. “I went into that grey zone was so much fun. But then they didn’t have or even finding their way to India.” He wants as an act of “reverse colonialism”, some with of illegal immigration,” he explains. “You that many African people there and I needed to see Portugal take pride in more than just anguish, others with glee. have to get your papers in order if you want that closeness. And Lisbon represents that,” “discovering” other people’s lands. This perceived role reversal, between col- to get a job,” but you can only obtain those he adds. “I can bump into my high school KALAF has an ambitious and quite gor- oniser and colonised, was one chapter in the papers if you already have a job. friends there and I couldn’t replace that.” geous view for a new kind of postcolonial centuries-long relationship that KALAF was

24 KALAF EPALANGA Angola – Portugal – Germany 25 on the doorstep of a nation that previously is now experiencing a new iteration of the

exerted significant power over his homeland. migrant experience: figuring out how to raise Having obtained his Portuguese citizen- your kids in a place that you are only just ship, KALAF was now able to live in any of starting to call home ( p. 72). the other European Union member states “Yes, parenting is a lot of work,” he says. he wished. It’s a privilege available to all EU “But that’s one of the things Berlin can pro- citizens; currently, about 3.1 percent of them vide, or Germany in general. The maternity live in an EU country other than the one they leave my wife can get here is great, while in were born in ( p. 84). Portugal you have just four or five months, and then you need to go back to work. In Germany it’s different,” he explains. “We can If anyone take a year off, or one-and-a-half years, and plenty of time wandering its streets. its wandering plenty of time that makes a whole world of difference.” can sell a new On top of parenting, KALAF writes a col- Being able to distil Lisbon in his work means spending distil spending Lisbon to means in work able his Being umn for the magazine GQ Portugal every vision for the month and is working on his next book. “For now I’m calling it How to raise a black present to bear witness to. He would go on But these opportunities – to get rich on child in Prenzlauer Berg”, after the affluent, to publish a collection of essays provoca- property in Lisbon, or join the expat class Portuguese- tively titled, The Angolan who bought Lisbon in Angola – were only ever accessible to the (at half the price), where he argued for a high- privileged, educated few. Today, about 36 speaking world, er-minded process of decolonisation, based percent of Angolans still live below the pov- on mutual respect rather than a quick, greedy erty line – hardly a win for the former colony. it’s him. dash for profit. “I would prefer this ‘reverse colonialism’ “What the ‘reverse colonialism’ represent- was based on something far more produc- KALAF’s wife had already moved to Berlin ed,” says KALAF, “was that we were no better tive than just profit,” says KALAF. “Like the in 2009, right at the apex of Buraka Som than the so-called colonisers we now want- empowerment of our societies, sharing on an Sistema’s heaviest period of touring. At that ed to conquer. And that’s the tricky part,” equal basis.” If humans invented colonialism time, KALAF was pretty tied up with mak- he explains. “If the opportunity presented and statues of heroes and public holidays, ing music, touring and writing his weekly itself, would we repeat what they did to us? he reckons, “then we can invent something column, and she was drawn to pursuing her Or would we be a little bit better than that else, too.” Something even better. own challenges in a new city where she also and engage in something far more produc- KALAF’s ability to speak directly to such has connections, as a Portuguese-German. tive and far more equal?” a broad range of audiences – from rowdy The pair has kept a home in Lisbon, and As wealthy Angolans descended on Lisbon music fans to literary critics, loyal newspa- still travel back and forth quite a bit. But ready to splurge, middle-class Portuguese per readers to style blog followers – means two years ago, as Buraka Som Sistema an- workers were jumping on the same planes that if anyone can sell a new vision for the nounced its hiatus, the couple decided it was headed back to Luanda, where well-paid jobs Portuguese-speaking world, it’s him. time to start a family, moving themselves awaited them thanks to Angola’s oil boom. more officially to Berlin. KALAF says that In a re-routing of traditional migration pat- A NEW VANTAGE POINT for him, making the move “official” was more terns between former colonies and their col- For the past decade, KALAF has been living about changing where and in what language onisers, by 2011, 100,000 Portuguese people between Lisbon and Berlin. But two years he submits his tax returns than anything else. were living in Angola, almost five times the ago, he made a more permanent move to the Today the couple has two kids, aged two KALAF locates an intricate example of Lisbon’s number of Angolans in Portugal. German capital, finding himself once again and “five months tomorrow!”, and KALAF world-renowned tiles.

26 KALAF EPALANGA Angola – Portugal – Germany 27 predominantly white district of Berlin where for people to feel like they’re helping a little he lives with his wife and children. without actively participating in the societies KALAF is also developing the concept for in which they live. a TV show about an Angolan woman who KALAF believes that isn’t enough, not if migrated to Portugal at the turn of the 20th we’re going to be living up to his post-colonial century. He still dabbles in music from time vision, let alone the human rights principles to time, mostly writing or producing music that Europe claims to have founded. for other artists. And all of this work is fed “I tend to hold Europe in higher regard by his new vantage point in Berlin, a conven- because it’s the dominant culture,” he says. ient spot from which to continue observing “If you model the world on yourself, then you Europe as both an insider and an outsider. should set the example.” “You think ‘oh, every four years I vote and then I’m done’. No, it doesn’t work that way. “If you model Our neutrality oppresses. I feel like we all need to participate. We all need to be ac- the world on countable. That’s why I feel like European identity is a work in progress.” KALAF says he would like to encourage yourself, then Europeans to commit to “everyday solidarity”. “If you meet your neighbour and you don’t you should say ‘good morning’ to them, or ‘goodnight’ when you come home, that creates a bad set the feeling. It creates friction.” Perhaps not at first, he reasons. But then after a year, if you example.” are still not greeting your neighbour when you see them in the street, then “when you KALAF believes that European identity need them, they will turn their back on you. today is “in crisis. And it’s in crisis because And for me that’s part of identity: solidarity, they haven’t given themselves an opportuni- empathy. I think Europe has it,” he explains, ty to really face their ghosts yet.” “but it’s more intermittent. And we need to Having an outside perspective allows him make it constant.” to see both the privileges of living in Europe Having finished our interview, KALAF and today – “social democracy, these models of I head back downstairs and into the Soho education, healthcare” – and the challenges, House Berlin lobby, passing a receptionist like who is free to move within the EU and wearing a blue hooded sweatshirt. In the cen- who is not. “That mobility, it’s fantastic,” he tre of her chest, the ring of EU stars is broken says. “But who has access to that mobility?” by the absence of a single star, a commentary, “Even the ones who are more enlightened no doubt, on the ongoing Brexit negotiations. and aware are living in denial,” he believes. It’s an unusually political choice for a mem- “Living in denial of their choices and the ber of hospitality staff, but then Berliners consequences of their choices.” For KALAF, aren’t shy about their eagerness to discuss making small donations to the Red Cross or politics. It feels like just the kind of place supporting petitions on Facebook are ways that can cope with an additional conscience.

28 KALAF EPALANGA Angola – Portugal – Germany 29