Back to School Studying Japanese
Filling in the gaps after JET Chrys Tappas was an ALT in Ibaraki-ken. As the season for reckoning in the JET Programme rolled around during my second year, and I began contemplating the third, I knew that it was time to move on. Having learned only bits and pieces of Japanese while in the countryside (my forté was junior high school slang), I became determined to fill the gaps in my Japanese language ability. Many people, specifically my parents, asked me why I was planning to study Japanese after JET. “Business...helping a foreign company,” I would airily answer, and rush off. Truthfully, I was not sure what I would do when I reached inevitable fluency after six months of study.
I was accepted into a Japanese language school for the fall. I bid farewell to the large application fee and packed up. October came and I found myself staring blankly at a textbook filled with black pickup sticks. Faced with the realization that it was now or possibly never again, I squeezed in some daily studying between photographing Kyoto, meeting friends for coffee and teaching to support my wild and crazy lifestyle. After six months of study, the course ended, and to my surprise I had learned quite a lot. As with anything, what you put in, you usually get back. Learning Japanese is just a matter of gumption and diligence.
It is possible to stay in a Japanese language school for a few years, as a good friend of mine had done. However, in order to justify this path I felt that I would have to commit to a future with a Japanese focus and constant interaction with the confusing Japanese communication style. The more I thought about this world, the more I knew it was not for me. I did not commit to the next Japanese course, but went home and volunteered as a canoe tour guide in Maine, USA.
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School to Back I have no plans to live in Japan again, and sometimes thoughts about this decision bring on an unexpectedly sad mood. As much as I groused about the dearth of bagels and abundance of traffic jams, thoughts about Japan will continue to enchant me wherever I am. Intensive Japanese language courses Gavin Burtonwood was an ALT in Wajima, Ishikawa-ken and was an Associate Editor for the 2000 edition of this book. So what can you expect from spending your summer holiday studying at one of the many intensive Japanese language courses offered by language schools in Japan? For a month long study, expect to spend around 100,000 yen. Add to that the cost of your accommodations, food, travel, beer money and the rest, and you can budget on spending most of your August salary.
Second, do not expect a miracle. Your Japanese ability will improve but no course comes with a guarantee of fluency. A native teacher who uses Japanese as the language of instruction generally conducts classes and this will certainly improve your listening ability. Rather than providing fluency in Japanese, many students find that intensive courses give their Japanese the kick-start that it needed.
When I started such a course, I could not communicate in Japanese. I knew the words but was embarrassed of making errors, or not understanding what the other person was saying. During the course I learned not to be embarrassed and to use the Japanese that I had to say anything I wanted. Maybe I do not know the Japanese word for giraffe but I do know how to describe it in such a way that any Japanese person would understand to what I was referring. This is a definite advance over the sign language I used to rely on.
Try to find a college that organises home-stays for its students. They provide the ideal environment to practice Japanese. Each of the home-stays I experienced was completely unique. All three families shared everything with me, from the cultural highlights of the area to magic shows and Beatles bars. With any luck you will take away some valuable memories and lasting friendships. Many intensive courses offer home-stays on a first come, first served basis and so people who apply late will be obliged to find their own accommodations. 162
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Let your workplace know well in advance that you are intending to study at a language school. If the school has a prospectus, show it to your supervisor or principal. Request educational leave: kenshuu. Your supervisor will be impressed that you are making so much effort to study Japanese and may allow you the study leave. Some ALTs find that they are allowed the time to study without taking a day of vacation time, nenkyu.
Others are compelled to take nenkyu or special leave, tokubetsunenkyu, for the entire length of the course. The following website has a listing of Japanese language schools around the country, listed by prefecture. Most do not have homepages. Some of the colleges listed hold intensive language courses during the school holidays and prior to the Japanese Language Proficiency Test: http://kbic.ardour.co.jp/~newgenji/jls/index.ht ml The Yamasa Institute (Aichi-ken) Three courses are available over the summer with discounts for JETs. It offers inexpensive accommodation, cultural activities, and some of the best Japanese language teachers in the world. http://www.yamasa.org KAI Japanese School (Shinjuku, Tokyo) Offers a three-week summer school. http://www.kaij.co.jp E-mail: [email protected] ARC Academy (Tokyo, Yokohama, Osaka) Offers intensive courses ranging from two to eight weeks. There are on average ten students per class. http://www.arc.ac.jp Academy of Language Arts (Shinjuku, Tokyo) Offers one- and two-month long intensive summer courses. http://kbic.ardour.co.jp/~newgenji/ala AMICA (Tokyo) Spring break intensive courses, golden week intensive courses, summer intensive courses, Christmas and New Year’s courses. http://www.amica.ac.jp E-mail: [email protected] Osaka YWCA Offers courses ranging from summer intensive to full time and 163
School to Back part-time morning or evening classes to JPLT prep courses, plus private lessons http://www.jca.ax.apc.org/ywca_osk Tel: 06-6361-2955 E-mail: [email protected] Kyoto Centre for Japanese Linguistic Studies, Kyoto Japanese Language School Instructors from this school participate in the linguistics/pedagogy and
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School to Back translation courses offered by CLAIR. The school has been running since 1950 and offers a range of courses including a 4-week summer intensive course. http://www.kjls.or.jp E-mail [email protected] Tel: 075-414-04
Kyoto International Centre of Languages 21 Kamihata-cho, Kitashirakawa, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto Japan 606-8252 Tel: 075-722-5066 Fax: 722-50637 Offers three-week summer intensive courses from basic to advanced. Apply well before the May 31 deadline. Longer intensive courses, group and private lessons also available SIL Bell Idaimae 1F, 291 Nishi 18 chome, Minami 2-jo, Chuo ku, Sapporo, Japan 060-0062 E-mail [email protected] http://www.spr.dpc.ne.jp/silnihon Studying Japanese and Methods for Success Michael Radich lives in Nagano-ken and speaks both Chinese and Japanese. He has passed the Level 1 of the Japanese Proficiency Test. The following are his words of wisdom. Myth #1: “Japanese is heinously difficult” Japanese is a natural language that has evolved to suit the needs of its native speakers for all kinds of practical and aesthetic communication. As such, it is no harder (or easier) than any other natural language. The kernel of truth in this myth is this: Japanese is an isolated, typologically unique language. For native speakers of Western languages, this means that there is little in what you already know that will be of help to you in learning Japanese. More to learn means it takes a longer time to learn it, and in this sense only it is justifiable to call Japanese difficult. But this entire means is it requires patience, not stunning intellectual prowess, to learn Japanese. Myth #2: “picking up the language” Having no experience, I do not know if it truly is possible to just mysteriously “pick up” European languages through mere contact, like some communicable disease. I can fairly safely say that it is not possible with Japanese. People do not leave the language lying around the place for casual foreigners to snaffle up as a souvenir. Without study, what you will “pick up,” at best, will be pidgin. 164
School to Back How to study Use a textbook At beginner and intermediate levels, at least, the structured and ordered picture of the language given by a good text is indispensable. At advanced levels, texts are still extremely useful if you can find a good one that covers the aspect of the language you are focusing on. I have not conducted an extensive survey of the ocean of available texts, but I can recommend Japanese for Busy People, which has excellent explanations and exercises. Have some sort of native speaker tuition No matter how rural your situation, you should be able to find someone willing to help you learn. Pay for a weekly lesson, or organise an exchange in return for teaching your native language, or go to free classes in one of the main centres. Do not expect the teacher to structure your learning for you; you can use a text for that, or your own initiative. When necessary, take active control of the process, and come to the lesson with specific things that you want to practice. Japanese people like talking to foreigners about the language. It is a common talking point, and it is nice for them that we are interested in their culture. Get into the habit of asking questions of people, and when you find someone who is good at answering, keep going back. Study daily The more you make study a regular habit, the less resistance you will have to it. Regular study in small doses is more effective than binging. Know your own attention span (which for intense tasks like vocabulary memorisation may be as short as fifteen minutes or half an hour) and respect it. Learn from life Combine your textbook study and lessons with learning from your everyday life. Because you have met the language in a real situation, you know it is really useful. Also, things from real life are so much easier to remember, half of the work is already done for you. Keep a notebook of the miscellany you encounter. There is no need to feel awkward about jotting down occasional words in conversations with Japanese friends.
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School to Back Memorize Your notebooks need to become part of a regular and roughly systematic process of memorizing their contents. Keep columns, one with the item to be remembered and one with a prompt (e.g., a translation in English). Go back over them and check which words you have forgotten, and actively work on remembering those you have trouble with. One system that seems pretty good is to go back three times: once a day later, once a week later, and once a month later. In keeping your notebook, you will find that on some days you encounter dozens and dozens of new words. Have a daily limit over which you just let it all go. Twenty or thirty words (or items to be memorised) a day is not unrealistic.
In the early stages, when you still need to learn words, you can label your whole house (i.e., a sticker that says “fridge” on the fridge). Also, stick up the verbs for daily actions in the place where you perform them (e.g., “brush teeth,” “wash face,” next to the basin, and “wipe bum” in the loo).
The usefulness of context and connections to other things you know is a key to being able to remember things. If you are having trouble with a word, build more context and connections for it rather than banging your head on a brick wall. You can create connections by finding examples of how a word is used, either in a situational context or in specific collocations. Looking words up in a dictionary, finding related words or words that use the same kanji, or finding opposites or other meanings for the same word are all useful methods.
Bringing the word into your own day-to-day life will help your memorizing. I often start up strange little conversations with people in my office with the sole purpose of surreptitiously slipping in a word that I am having trouble learning. Vary your study methods and situations A German friend of mine once came to my door with the Chinese for “forehead” written on his forehead, which looked ridiculous but ensured I never forgot the word naomen. If you are alone and will not be thought strange by anyone, acting out little scenarios physically, with your body and facial expressions, will also help. You can sometimes get your mouth to remember what your brain will not. (Muscle memory or something.) In any case, mutter to yourself when
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Variety is important. It will help you maintain interest, and interest helps you retain what you are trying to learn. Conduct Japanese lessons with your teacher in a café, read kids books, watch a bit of TV with the dictionary, or learn to sing a Japanese song that you like.
Finally, you also need to allow yourself to forget. In the long term I think I forget about 20-30% of the vocabulary that I try to learn. This is frustrating because memorisation is the hardest kind of study and it feels worst to perceive it wasted. You should not let this frustration, however, make you lose sight of the fact that whatever proportion you forget, you are actually remembering all the rest. Well that is about all. Do not be discouraged by the inevitable sense of frustration you will experience through the learning process. Just as cultural adjustment produces the culture-shock cycle of euphoria and disappointment, language acquisition is characterized by a cycle of emotions.
As long as you are working at learning, you will probably experience periods where you sense progress and see yourself as a brilliant raconteur in Japanese, and times where you seem like a complete idiot. It is doubtful that either is the “true” picture, but the cycle also seems to be a fact of life, and so it is best to just accept it, and keep studying away all the same. You will learn, and you will find that the rewards are worth the effort.
Study resources Japanese for College Students, Basic: Vols. 1–3,International Christian University. Text: US$24 Tapes: US$50. Japanese for Busy People, Vols. 1–3, tapes and CDs available. Association for Japanese Language Teaching. Remembering the Kanji, I and II, A Complete Course on How Not to Forget the Meaning and Writing of Japanese Characters and A Systematic Guide to Reading Japanese. James W. Heisig, Japan Publications Trading Co. US$35 and $37 respectively. Integrated Spoken Japanese Vols. I and II. Kenneth D. Butler and 167
School to Back Mizutani Osamu. Inter-University Center for Japanese Language Studies. ¥3400 each, tapes available. (American and Canadian university-approved advanced-level text.) Online resources Japanese On-line http://www.japanese-online.com A range of useful facilities including Japanese lessons and an online J-E/E-J dictionary. Jeffrey's Japanese/English Dictionary Gateway http://www.omron.co.jp/cgi-bin/j-e/. Allows you to view output in either romaji or kanji and kana. Can convert from English to Japanese and vice versa. Japanese Input Method Editor http://www.microsoft.com or http://www.netscape.com Language support packs are available for free download for use with Microsoft and Netscape web browsers. The Microsoft package allows you to type Japanese within Explorer and Outlook Express. The freeware allows you to write and receive e-mails in Japanese. Alternative Dictionary: http://www.notam.uio. no/~hcholm/altlang Insult your colleagues in their mother tongue! J-Links http://www.notam.uio.no/~hcholm/ A links bank of information about Japan in English.
**Note from the Project Manager: Having studied Japanese and Chinese together for the past four years (because I am mad!), my tips are to try a little every day, get drunk in the bar with the locals (often!) and just keep at it. For Japanese Kanji, I have used many different approaches in quickly finding a character that is annoying the hell out of you. The best book that I have found is “The Kodansha Kanji Learner’s Dictionary by Jack Halpern, ISBN4-7700-2855-5 (3,900 Yen). My electronic dictionary is now gathering dust.**
The Japanese Language Proficiency Test The Japanese Language Proficiency Test is one of the most widely known tests to evaluate and certify the language proficiency of learners of the Japanese language. Completely multiple choice and computer scored, it is held every year on the first Sunday in December, in Japan and thirty-eight countries around the world. Offered at four levels, the exam has three sections: writing and vocabulary, listening comprehension, and reading comprehension and grammar. 168
School to Back Level 1 high-level grammar, 2,000 kanji, and 10,000 words Level 2 high-level grammar, 1,000 kanji, and 6,000 words Level 3 basic grammar, 300 kanji and 1,500 words Level 4 basic grammar, 100 kanji and 800 words The passing score for levels 2-4 is 60%, but for level 1, 70%. At every level, you must pass each section in order to pass the test. Applications are available from early August to mid-September, at major bookstores. If there are no major bookstores in your area, you may request an application through the mail by calling Daigaku Tsushin at (03) 3291-3573. The application costs ¥486, and the exam costs ¥5,200. The application deadline is mid-September at the very latest. Testing locations include Sapporo, Tokyo, Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, Hiroshima, Fukuoka, and other major cities in Japan. http://www.aiej.or.jp
Taking the JLPT overseas Outside Japan, the application process and costs vary from country to country. Most JET participant countries have at least one venue for the exam. Some contact information is listed below. For more information on taking the JLPT overseas, contact a Japanese consulate in your country. Sydney (61) 2-9957-5322 http://www.jpf.org.au/slc/ Toronto (1) 416-966-1600 http://www.japanfoundationcanada.org Paris (33) 1-44-37-95-00 http://www.mcjp.asso.fr Koln (49) 221-940-5580 http://www.jki.de London (44) 207-499-4726 http://www.soas.ac.uk/Centres/Japan/ Los Angeles (1) 310-449-0027 http://www.jflalc.org New York (1) 212-489-0299 http://www.jfny.org
Preparing for the JLPT Start your preparations early in the summer before you even apply for the exam. Take a preparatory course through a language college if possible. Visit a major bookstore and purchase copies of past exams (which come complete with answers and a tape of the listening comprehension section) with which to revise.
If you stringently time yourself as you do the questions, as if you were doing the actual exam, using copies of past exams disciplines you 169
School to Back to be aware of time limits. No matter what level they are attempting, most examinees declare that they can get the correct answers—it just takes time. You will not have time during the actual exam. Get used to it.
The Japanese Language Proficiency Test—Questions and Correct Answers. Bonjinsha. ¥1200. Preparation and Strategy: Practice Questions for the JLPT. ALC Press Japanese Textbook Series. ¥1480. The Preparatory Course for the JLPT. UNICOM, ¥1980. A Dictionary of Japanese Grammar. The Japan Times, available at beginner and intermediate levels, ¥3700. Jetro Business Japanese Test The Japan External Trade Organisation, together with the support of more than 600 companies in Japan, developed this test to help you objectively assess your business language proficiency in reading, writing and speaking to work in Japan or for Japanese companies.
To be eligible to take the test, you must be a non-native speaker of Japanese. The test has two parts, the Listening and Reading Comprehension Test and the Oral Communication Test (JOCT). More than one level of the test can be taken on the same day, and the test is administered at various sites throughout the world.
The JETRO Oral Communication Test (JOCT) measures and evaluates communication skills. You must pass Level 1 of the Listening and Reading Comprehension Test before taking the JOCT. It is administered in Tokyo three months after the Listening and Reading Comprehension Test.
The listening and reading comprehension test Level 3 The candidate should have basic listening and reading skills suitable for simple circumstances and daily situations in a business and social environment. You should be able to read simple documents, messages and signs. You should partially understand the special vocabulary and expressions of business, including the use of different levels of politeness. You should partially understand Japanese business customs and practices. Fee: ¥5,500 170
School to Back Level 2 The candidate should be able to understand the main points of dialogue spoken during company and outside meetings, negotiations, and telephone calls, and should also be familiar with the basics of honorific language. You should be able to comprehend the main points of company and general business documents, as well as the main points of general and economic news on television and radio, and basic Japanese business customs. Fee: ¥5,500 Level 1 The candidate should fully understand dialogue spoken during company and outside meetings, negotiations, and telephone calls, and must be competent at using honorific language at its various levels. You should also fully comprehend company and general business documents, in addition to general and economic news on television and radio. You must have complete familiarity with Japanese business customs. Fee: ¥6,000
Registration The test is held during the first week in June. Applications are accepted from February to early April. Application forms can be requested from the JETRO Office in the city where you wish to sit the test. JETRO Tokyo Headquarters International Communication Dept. JETRO Test Secretariat 2-5 Toranomon 2-chome, Minato-ku Tokyo 105-8466 Tel: (03) 3587-1143 Fax: (03) 5563-2857 JETRO Osaka Bingo-machi Nomura Bldg., 1-8 Bingo-machi 2-chome, Chuo-ku Osaka-shi, Osaka 541-0051 Tel: (06) 6203-3603 Fax: (06) 6222-5675 JETRO Niigata Ebara Niigata Bldg., 5F 16-4 Shinko-cho Niigata-shi, Niigata 950-0965 Tel: (025) 284-6991 Fax: (025) 284-7910 JETRO Nagoya Nishiki SIS Bldg., 1F 3-10-33 Nishiki Naka-ku Nagoya-shi, Aichi-ken 460-0003 Tel: (052) 211-4517 Fax: (052) 202-0750 171
School to Back JETRO Hokkaido Sapporo MN Bldg., 5F Nishi 3-chome Kita 1-jo, Chuo-ku Sapporo-shi, Hokkaido 060-0001 Tel: (011) 261-7434 Fax: (011) 221-0973 JETRO Fukuoka El Gala Bldg., 7F 1-4-2, Tenjin, Chuo-ku Fukuoka-shi, Fukuoka 810-0001 Tel: (092) 741-8783 Fax: (092) 714-0709 Locations of test centres world-wide Test centres are located in Australia (Sydney), USA (Atlanta, Chicago, Honolulu, Los Angeles, New York, Salt Lake City), Canada (Toronto, Vancouver), the United Kingdom (Sheffield, London), Ireland (Dublin), and Germany (Bochum). For further information and addresses for these and other JETRO offices worldwide visit the JETRO website. http://www.jetro.go.jp
The test of practical Japanese (J-Test) The J-Test was introduced in 1991 as a test for conducting objective measurement of the Japanese language proficiency of non-Japanese. Unlike the pass/fail system used by the JLPT and JETRO, the J-Test gives you a numerical score out of 1000. With this test you have the benefit of knowing approximately where you stand in current proficiency level.
A computer scores the J-test. All participants are mailed a "Report Card" as certification of their Japanese proficiency, along with reference materials. The general yardsticks for test scores are 400 to 700 points for Japanese language school students, and 750 to 900 points for university students. For entrance to university the benchmark range is 700 to 800 points, and for gaining employment at Japanese companies, 850 to 900 points. Level A-D (intermediate-advanced) ¥2,100 Based on a maximum score of 1,000 points (listening comprehension 500 points, reading comprehension/writing 500 points), scores are used to rank proficiency from A through D. Because the level of difficulty is equal for each test, by repeating the test it is possible to monitor improvements in your Japanese proficiency. Those scoring 500 points or more are issued certificates of recognition. The listening comprehension section takes 45 minutes and the reading comprehension/writing section, 80 minutes. 172
School to Back • A Class (900 points): Interpreter level • Secondary A Class (850 points) • B Class (800 points) • Secondary B Class (700 points) = Level 1 of the JLPT • C Class (600 points): = Level 2 of the JLPT • D Class (500 points): Japanese used by overseas employees level
Level E-F (elementary) ¥1,500 An elementary level test is offered as a means of testing those learning or completing studies of elementary Japanese. The listening comprehension section is 25 minutes long, and the reading comprehension/writing section is 60 minutes long. Based on a maximum score of 500 points, (listening comprehension, 200 points, reading comprehension/writing, 300 points), proficiency is ranked as one of two classes. (There are no designated classes for scores of less than 300 points.) • E Class (350 points): Equivalent to Level 3 of the JLPT • F Class (300 points): Equivalent to Level 4 of the JLPT When and how to apply Tests are held publicly each year in January, April, June, September, and November. Test sites include Sapporo, Sendai, Tokyo, Niigata, Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, Fukuoka, and Okinawa, among other places. If you can find five or more people interested in taking the examination and have a school, company, or cultural centre willing to administer it for you, you can apply to write it anytime as a group. Application information and past examinations can be acquired by contacting the following location: Association for Testing Japanese / J. Test Office Tsujisawa Building, 1-57-8 Higashi-Nakano Nakano-ku, Tokyo 164-0003 Tel: (03) 3368-8106 Fax: (03) 3368-8108 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.jtest.org/jtest
Zen Buddhist Schools Josh Rhodes was a third year ALT in Izumi, Kagoshima-ken, and an Associate Editor of this book. Throw a little peace and harmony into your life and visit one of the many Buddhist temples that offer Zazen instruction. You can
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School to Back usually stay at inns located within the temple grounds and most sessions are open to anyone wishing to participate. The fees are usually comparable to a business hotel and include meals. Participation in morning and evening sessions is mandatory and help with daily cleaning is expected. Three- to four-day retreats for English speakers are also available from time to time. A comprehensive list of Zen Buddhist temples throughout the world that can be found at http:// www.dharmanet.org/infowebz.html Ida Ryogokudo Zazen Dojo 5-11-20 Minami Yawata, Ichikawa-shi, Chiba-ken 272 Tel: (0473) 79-1596 Fax: (0473) 78-6232 Email: [email protected] Website: www.windbell.com/dsangha.html Holds up to 11 people in individual rooms. The Dojo also houses a large Zazen Hall and Lecture Hall, a library, and a communal kitchen and dining room. Zazen, practice four times per day. Fees are ¥2,000 per day for the first month, and then ¥40,000 per month thereafter. Toshoji International Zen Center4-5-18 Yutaka Shinagawa-ku Tokyo 142-0042 Tel: (03) 3781-4235 Fax:(03) 3781-6168 Email: [email protected] Website: http://village.infoweb.or.jp/~fwgc8522/ Eight rooms for men and three for women. Free sutra chanting sessions daily except Sunday. Free Zen training Saturdays. Full-time Zen training ¥3,000 per day. Accommodation fees total ¥30,000 per month. Ichibata Yakushi Buddhist Temple866 Kozakai-cho, Hirata-shi, Shimane-ken 699-0074Tel: (0853) 67-0111 Fax: (0853) 67-0115 Email: [email protected] Website: http://ichibata.org Located on a 200-meter mountain in the middle of Shimane peninsula, the temple offers free sessions daily in the morning and evening. All lectures are held in Japanese, and the accommodations cost ¥5,900 per night.
TEFL Qualification
Louise Elliott was an ALT in Kanazawa, Ishikawa-ken If you are considering further work in teaching English, but have no formal qualification, get one that gives you access to any job from Borneo to Brazil. The world EFL market is in desperate need of teachers. Those with a well-known initial teaching qualification will have their choice of jobs. Make sure your teaching certificate offers 174
School to Back at least 100 hours of practical training, and teaching practice with ‘real’ students. Some institutions may insist that their own courses and qualifications are valid worldwide, and while this may be true, the most respected qualifications internationally are the RSA/Cambridge CELTA, and Cert. TESOL by Trinity College, London. They are offered in 250 centres in over 40 countries. The application process often entails you write an exam.
CELTA—Certificate in English Language Teaching to Adults. A minimum of 114 hours and may be taken part-time or full time. Full time courses are normally intensive over four weeks and part time courses vary from four or five months to a year. Usually requires applicants to hold a degree. http://www.cambridge-efl.org/teaching/celta/index.cfm
CELTYL—Certificate in English Language Teaching to Young Learners in Language Schools. Designed for candidates who wish to develop their knowledge and skills in teaching one of the following age groups: 5-10, 8-13, or 11-16. http://www.cambridge-efl.org/teaching/celtyl/index.cfm
Trinity College London 89 Albert Embankment, London SE1 7TP, UK Tel: (44) 207-820-6100 Fax: (44) 207-820-6161 Email: [email protected] http://www.trinitycollege.co.uk http://www.tlispain.com/teflcourses.htm The British Council Teaching Centre, Tokyo http://www.uknow.or.jp/bc/fs_english_e.htm E-mail [email protected]
Further Qualifications If your previous TEFL training concentrated on the practical aspects of EFL/ESL, you may prefer to study the theoretical aspects through a master’s degree. For university posts worldwide, and in North America, a master’s degree in either TESOL or Applied
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School to Back Linguistics is the standard professional qualification and is often taken as an initial training course.
There appears to be a shortage of RSA/Trinity diploma holders in the private sector in Europe, Australia and New Zealand, where it is definitely the preferred high-level qualification.
DELTA—Diploma in English Language Teaching to Adults. The diploma is intended for teachers who have a minimum of two years full-time (1200 hours) teaching experience of ELT to adults within the past five years. It can be studied full-time (approximately eight weeks), part-time (one year) or by distance learning, with the teaching component (hopefully) taking place in your own country. The exam consists of practical, oral, and written components, with exams generally held twice a year.
http://www.cambridge-efl.org/teaching/delta/index.cfm http://www.thedistancedelta.com
Applying for graduate studies
Get organized! Allison Kolody is a former ALT from Nagano-ken and a weathered veteran of J&B. She has been Project Manager and Chief Editor, as well as a contributor. When I applied to do graduate studies from this side of the Pacific Ocean, the paperwork, and international phone calls, and mailings were enough to make me wonder if higher education was really worth the hassle. If your post-JET destiny lies in graduate school and you really want a good program waiting for you as soon as you return home you had better start the application process from Japan very early. Application packages Many schools now offer online applications. If it is not possible to apply online, leave more time than you think is necessary for applications to arrive by mail. It seemingly took forever for my application packages to arrive, much longer than it ever took for
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School to Back anything from my friends and family back home to arrive. Universities are notoriously slow. Tests If your chosen school/faculty requires a standardized test, like the GRE or LSAT, you can take prep courses and write the exam in Japan at select locations. Be aware that some exams can be done at only certain times throughout the year. Others, such as the new computerized GMAT can be written at anytime. Study guides can be ordered online or can be picked up at major bookstores throughout Japan. It is even possible to register for your exam and take practice tests over the Internet. Useful links http://www.gre.org (for the GRE) http://www.lsat.org (for the LSAT) http://www.ets.org This is the website of Educational Testing Service, the organization that designs and administers standardized tests, including the GRE and GMAT. Transcripts It helps considerably to have a supply of blank cheques on hand. Order a student’s copy for yourself and make photocopies to send to the people who will be writing recommendation letters for you. Letters of recommendation Once I had decided on the professors I wanted to ask to write letters of recommendation for me, I sent emails re-introducing myself and outlining what I had been doing for the past couple years. I told them that I planned on applying to grad school and mentioned that I would be calling sometime soon to formally ask if they would write a letter for me.
The “warning email” is a good approach. When it comes time to speak to your potential referees, they will have had time to figure out who you are and whether or not they are able to help you. Email alone, however, is not enough. International calls are a bit of an expense and a hassle given time differences, but they show motivation, sincerity, and allow you to reconnect with someone you may not have been in contact with for a number of years. My statistics professors once told my class that the more information your professor has about you, your work and your life, the more personal and therefore more effective 180
School to Back your letter of recommendation will be. He recommended the following items be provided:
• Photocopy of your transcript—So he or she can see how you fared in your coursework. • Samples of work—One of my professors wanted to see some of my papers so she could re-familiarize herself with my work, as well as include in her letter that I was “articulate.” • Curriculum Vitae—A succinct way to let him or her know where you have been, what you have been doing and what skills you have acquired. • Photograph—To put a face to a name. • Anything else that may be relevant Unless you are a highly dedicated academic, old term papers were likely not among the things that you brought over to Japan with you. I was lucky in that I knew I was going to apply to grad schools. On a trip home, I dug out my papers, organized them, made photocopies, and put them in an easy-to-find location. When I needed them forwarded to someone, I had my family locate them and send them off. Of course, this may not be possible for many people. Anticipate what you will need and figure out how to deal with it. Anything is possible.
In addition to standardized tests, transcripts, and letter of recommendation, other requirements in applying to graduate schools may include portfolios, or interviews, or both. Again, anticipate what you will need and allow extra time. Remember that everything done from overseas takes twice as long as it would at home.
International Scholarships
The commonwealth scholarship This scholarship is available to international students of high intellectual promises who are citizens of Commonwealth nations, or protected British nationals, and under the age of thirty-five. Program details vary according to the country offering the award, but in general the scholarship is open for postgraduate degree programs in any area of study, and is tenable for up to three years. The award includes return airfare, a monthly stipend, university fees, a book and study apparatus allowance, and travel study finances. In some cases allowances are awarded for children or spouses. Applications are 181
School to Back made to the Commonwealth Scholarship Agency in the country where the applicant has permanent residence. For a list of Scholarship Agencies throughout the Commonwealth, consult the Association of Commonwealth Universities website http://www.acu.ac.uk
The Monbugakusho (MEXT) scholarships These are the crème de la crème of scholarships available to students who wish to pursue their studies at national universities throughout Japan. From the available scholarships those that are of potential interest to JETs include Research Scholarships at the graduate level open to candidates under the age of 35, Japanese Language and Culture Scholarships for undergrads in Japanese studies programs, open to candidates under 29 years of age and Teacher-Training Scholarships for experienced teachers under the age of 35. Applications abroad can be made in two different ways, either through Japanese diplomatic missions in your home countries (Japan currently recruits candidates in 140 countries) or through universities that have established exchange programs with Japanese national universities. The types of scholarships available differ from country to country so if you choose to apply through a diplomatic mission, consult the Monbusho Scholarship co-ordinators at the Information and Culture section in the Japanese Embassy of your country to find out which ones are open for competition.
Applications for Research scholarships are generally accepted by from March through May each year, though some regional variation does exist. Screening then occurs and by October successful applicants are recommended to the Monbugakusho. The selection results are usually announced in January and the scholars leave for Japan after April. The Research award is tenable for two years.
Applications for the Japanese Language and Culture or Teacher-training scholarships are also usually accepted from March through May each year, with screening occurring at the same time. Successful candidates are recommended to the Monbugakusho by May. The final results are announced in July and scholars leave for Japan in October. Again there is some variation to this schedule, some departures occur in April. The Teacher Trainer awards are tenable
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To be eligible to apply for the Teacher-Trainer scholarship you must hold at least a Bachelor’s degree and you must have worked for at least five years at elementary or secondary education level or at a teacher-training institute. College professors are not eligible.
If you are enrolled in a university that has an exchange program with a national university in Japan, you may be eligible to apply for the Research or Japanese Language and Culture scholarships through your university. In this process, candidates are initially screened by their university and then recommended to the Monbugakusho for a final screening.
International students enrolled in graduate degree programs in Japan, (including those admitted for the coming year), and international students in their third year of an undergraduate degree program in Japan are eligible to apply for the Research Scholarships. Candidates from among international students are chosen by the universities that they attend. The universities then recommend the candidates to the Monbugakusho.
All candidates must be mentally and physically sound, and be willing to study Japanese language. Japanese language ability is not a requirement for the Research scholarship and the areas of study for this particular award are not limited to Japanese culture or language. Military personnel and spouses of current Monbugakusho scholars are ineligible to apply for the scholarships.
In order to successfully earn a research scholarship, candidates must supply a letter of acceptance from a professor in the graduate department at a Japanese university where they would like to do their studies. The letter helps the Monbugakusho with placement of their candidates as they search for supervisors who share similar research interests to the scholarship awardees. Additionally the Japanese government would like to encourage greater communication between Japanese and foreign academics. Potential applicants are strongly encouraged to establish contacts with Japanese academics in their field well in advance of any plans to apply for the Research Scholarship.
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School to Back The Japanese government provides return airfare, school fees, an arrival allowance of ¥25,000, and usually, cheap student housing or a housing subsidy from between ¥9,000 to ¥12,000 a month. Both the Research Scholarship and Teacher-Trainer Scholarship award a monthly stipend of ¥184,000, whereas the Language and Culture scholarship awards a monthly stipend of ¥142,500. Field study allowances for the Research Scholarship may also be available.
Further information For information on national universities that accept Monbugakusho scholars, consult the catalogues available at the Information and Culture section of the Japanese Embassy. http://www.studyjapan.go.jp/en/index.html http://www.aiej.or.jp http://www.monbu.go.jp/emindex.html http://www.monbushoscholars-uk.net
UNESCO The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) through its sister organization The International Bureau of Education, publishes Study Abroad/ Etudes an L’etranger/Estudios en el Extranjero which provides information on 200,000 education related scholarships and courses worldwide.
IBE Case postale 199, 1211 Geneve 20, Suisse/Switzerland Tel: 41-22-918-7800 Email: [email protected] http://www.ibe.unesco.org
Schools & Scholarships
Australia The following is a list of postgraduate courses, currently offered at Australian tertiary institutions in the areas of Japanese, Teaching English as a Foreign/Second Language and Teaching Languages other than English. For a more comprehensive listing of universities and
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School to Back courses, visit the Australian Resource Library at the Australian Embassy and see the collection of university handbooks, which have detailed information about individual courses and programmes. The Career Resource Centres located throughout Australia also have a wide range of information on education in Australia. See http://www.detya.gov.au for a listing of Australian university homepages. Queens land Griffith University Nathan, QLD 4111 Tel: (07) 3875-6754 Fax: (07) 3875-6766 http://www.gu.edu.au Grad Certificate in Language Teaching–JP International Education Directorate, The University of Queensland St. Lucia, QLD 4072 Tel: (07) 3365-1960 Fax: (07) 3365-1794 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.uq.edu.au GC, Post Grad Diploma, MPhil in JP; Gr.Dip, MA, DLit in ED Bond University Gold Coast, QLD 4229 Tel: (07) 5595-2651 Fax: (07) 5595-2696 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.englishinaustralia.com Gr.Dipl Applied Linguistics; Gr.Dip., MA in Computer Enhanced Language Learning Queens land University of Technology Victoria Park Road, Kelvin Grove, Brisbane, QLD 4059 Tel: (07) 3864-2000 Fax: (07) 3864-3984 E-mail: [email protected] Website: http://www.qut.edu.au Gr.Dip in ED: Primary/Secondary; GC, MEd in ED (TESOL) New South Wales Australian Catholic University International Education Office, GPO Box 968, North Sydney, NSW 2059 Tel: (02) 9739-2092 Fax: (02) 9739-2001 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.acu.edu.au GC in TESOL Charles Sturt University Wagga Wagga, NSW 2678 Tel: (02) 6933-2660 Fax: (02) 6933-2799
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School to Back Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.csu.edu.au GC in Business JP; GC in TESOL, LOTE (language other than English) University of New England Armidale, NSW 2351 Tel: (02) 6773-3192 Fax: (02) 6773-3325 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.une.edu.au GC, GD in AS; GD in Multicultural Ed., ED University of New South Wales Sydney, NSW 2052 Tel: (02) 385-3078 Fax: (02) 313-7382 MA, PhD in JP; GC, GD in TESOL, JP Teacher Training
The University of NSW Institute of Languages Sydney, NSW 2052 Tel: (02) 9385-0339 Fax: (02) 9399-5420 Email: [email protected] http://www.lang.unsw.edu.au Macquaire University Sydney Department of Linguistics, NSW 2109 Tel: (02) 850-8740 Fax: (02) 850-9199 Email: [email protected] http://www.ling.mq.edu.au D, MA in Applied Linguistics (TESOL) University of Technology, Sydney PO Box 123, Broadway, NSW 2007 Tel: (02) 9514-1531 Fax: (02) 9514-1530 Email: [email protected] http://www.uts.edu.au GC, GD, MA in TESOL University of Sydney Sydney, NSW 2006 Tel: (02) 9351-4079 Fax: (02) 9351-4013 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.usyd.edu.au GD in JP, TEFL University of W. Sydney, Nepean PO Box 10, Kingswood, NSW 2747 Tel: (02) 9685-9297 Fax: (02) 9685-9298 Email: [email protected] http://www.nepean.uws.edu.au GD in Language Teaching
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School to Back Western Australia International Office, Curtin University of Technology GPO Box U 1987 Perth, WA 6845 Tel: (08) 9266-7331 Fax: (08) 9266-2605 Email: [email protected] http://www.curtin.edu.au MA, PhD in JP Murdoch International Murdoch University South St, Murdoch, WA 6150 Tel: (08) 9360-2756 Fax: (08) 9360-5090 Email: [email protected]: http://www.murdoch.edu.au MPhil, PhD in JP Edith Cowan University Pearson St., Churchlands, WA 6018 Tel: (092) 73-8499 Fax: (092) 73-8732 Website: http://www.ecu.edu.au GC, MEd, PhD in TESOL Tasmania University of Tasmania, International Admissions and Exchanges GPO Box 252-38, Hobart Tasmania, 7001 Tel: (03) 6226-2706 Fax: (03) 6226-7862 E-mail: [email protected] http://www.international.utas.edu.au GD, MA, PhD in Modern Languages Northern territory Northern Territory University Darwin, NT 0909 Tel: (08) 8946-6004 Fax: (08) 8946-6644 GD in Applied Linguistics (TESOL) Australian capital territory Australian National University Canberra City, ACT 0200 Tel: (02) 6249-5111 Fax: (02) 6249-5931 E-mail: [email protected] Website: http://www.anu.edu.au/ieo GD, MLit in EAS. Internationally regarded as one of the best East Asian Studies departments in the world. South Australia University of Adelaide North Terrace, Adelaide, SA 5005 Tel: (08) 303-4455 Fax: (08) 303-4401 http://www.adelaide.edu.au 187
School to Back GC in Language ED; GC, GD in TESOL; M.ED Victoria Deakin University Pigdons Rd., Geelong, VIC 3217 (Campuses also in Melbourne and Warrnambool) Tel: (03) 5227-1100 Fax: (03) 5227-2001 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.deakin.edu.au MA in JP; GD in Interpreting/ Translating, TESOL
Monash University 26 Sir John Monash Dr. Caulfield, VIC 3145 Tel: (03) 9903-1540 Fax: (03) 9903-1556 Email: [email protected] http://www.monash.edu.au GD in Applied Linguistics, Business Communication; GD in Lang. Acquisition Swinburne University John St., Hawthorn, VIC 3122 Tel: (03) 9214-8647 Fax: (03) 9818-3648 Email: [email protected] Website: www.swin.edu.au GD, MA in JP Exchange program options Japanese Studies Centre, Monash University, Wellington Rd., Clayton, VIC 3168 Tel: (03) 9905-2260 Fax: (03) 9905-3874 Email: [email protected] http:// www.arts.monash.edu.au/mai/jsc TEFL courses Australian TESOL Training Centre PO Box 82, Bondi Junction, NSW 2022. Tel: (02) 9389-0249 Fax: (02) 9389-7788 E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.ace.edu.au/attc RSA/Cambridge certificate courses offered monthly. Insearch Language School University of Technology Sydney PO Box K1206, NSW 2000 ten-week TEFL evening courses offered.
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School to Back Australian Centre for Languages Science House, 157-161 Gloucester Street The Rocks, Sydney, NSW 2000 Tel: (61) 2-9252-3788 Fax: (61) 2-9252-3799 Email: [email protected] http://www.acl.edu.au
Scholarships and grants Australian National University, International Education Office Subjects: unrestricted. Tenable at Australian universities and institutions. Duration: 1 year initially, 2 year extensions available Value includes living allowance, may also include airfare and some allowance for dependent children. Open to international master's degree students proficient in English. Applications by September 30th Australian Vice-Chancellors' Committee, Commonwealth Scholarship and Fellowship Plan, Australian European Awards Program GPO Box 1142, Canberra, ACT 2601 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.avcc.edu.au Subjects: unrestricted. Tenable at Australian tertiary institutions. Duration: (a) 2 to 3 years (extension possible if justified), (b) 12 months. Value: living allowance of $16,809, all compulsory fees and health insurance, plus travel to and from Australia. Open to: (a) graduate students from the UK, Canada, and New Zealand, (b) graduate students from various European countries (including France, Germany, and Ireland). Applications: (a) by June 30th for awards tenable seven months later, through the Australian Embassy in applicant's country; (b) by May 31st for awards tenable eight months later, through the Australian Embassy in applicant's country. Australian Research Council, Department of Employment, Education and Training Youth Affairs Institutional Grants Section PO Box 9880, Canberra, ACT 2601 Tel: (02) 6284-6600 Fax: (02) 6284-6601 Website: http://www.arc.edu.au Subjects: research. Tenable at Australian institutions of higher education. Duration: master's degree, 2 years; PhD, 3 years (with provision for extension). Value: tuition and health coverage. Open to: citizens of all overseas countries (excluding New Zealand). Applications to the registrar of the institution at which the applicant proposes to study.
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School to Back Australia-Japan Foundation Studies Grant This grant is for Australian citizens (or permanent residents of Australia) who have not previously received it. Publications The Directory of Postgraduate Study. Graduate House. AU$40, post paid. The Graduate Connection, PO Box 172, Balgowlah 2093 Email: coytep@deakin. edu.au The Directory of Higher Education Sources. Hobson. New Press. Available at Australian Diplomatic Missions. Canada Entrance requirements into Canadian graduate schools vary greatly from university to university and faculty to faculty. However, an honours undergraduate degree is usually required for admission to Master’s programs. While most programs do not require standardized tests, there are some notable exceptions. A few programs require a GRE no matter what school you apply to. Of course, professional programs such as law require an LSAT. Admission to MBA programs requires a GMAT.
The first semester of the school year runs from September to December and the second from January to April. Most universities offer spring and summer courses for the super-determined “I just wanna get it over and done with” type. Distance education is gaining popularity. Additionally, some schools offer cooperative education in selected programs, combining formal education with full-time work.
Not convinced that you should study in Canada? Tuition fees and the average total cost of one year of education (tuition plus living expenses) are significantly lower than in the United States, the United Kingdom, and Australia (AUCC, 1998). The Association of Universities and Colleges of Canada (AUCC) is a valuable source of information for prospective students. Their website, http://www.aucc.ca, has a particularly useful matching function. Input your chosen program, degree level, and province, and it will provide the names of schools that fit the criteria. There is also information on education in Canada, scholarships, exchange programs and links to all Canadian university web sites.
Only a small number of Canada’s universities are listed here. There are many others that may suit your interests. Visit the AUCC 190
School to Back website for links to all Canadian universities. The Canadian Embassy in Tokyo is also a good source of information. You may also contact the following organizations. The Canadian Association of Graduate Schools College of Graduate Studies & Research University of Saskatchewan Room 50, Murray Bldg., 3 Campus Dr. Saskatoon SK, S7N 5A4 Tel: (306) 966-5751 Fax: (306) 966-5756 Email: [email protected] The Canadian Asian Studies Association, University of Montreal C.P. 6128 Succursale Centre-Ville, Montreal QC, H3C 3J7 Tel: (514) 343-6569 Fax: (514) 343-7716 Email: [email protected] http://www.casa.umontreal.ca
British Columbia The University of British Columbia, The Faculty of Graduate Studies 180-6371 Crescent Road, Vancouver BC, V6T 122 Tel: (604) 822-2935 Fax: (604) 822-5802 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.ubc.ca MA, PhD in AS, Ω, ED; Intensive JP Summer Courses (Contact Directly through the Graduate Studies Office) Simon Fraser University, David-See Lam Centre for International Communication 515 West Hastings St., Vancouver BC, V6B 5K3 Tel: (604) 291-5089 Fax: (604) 291-5112 Email:[email protected] Website: www.cic.sfu.ca/index.html MA in AS Alberta The University of Alberta 252 Administration Building Edmonton AB, T6G 2M7 Tel (780) 492-3111 Website: http://www.ualberta.ca MA, Ph. D in EAS, or Japanese Lang. and Lit. B. Comm. Asian special The Institute of Asia-Pacific Studies Grant McEwan Community College, 10700 104th Ave. Edmonton AB, T5J 4S2 Tel: (780) 497-5543 Fax: (780) 497-5314 Email: [email protected]/asiapacific Website: http://www.gmcc.ab.ca 2-year Asia-Pacific Management Diploma
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School to Back Ontario International MBA (IMBA), Schulich School of Business, York University 4700 Keele St. Toronto ON, M3J 1P3 Tel: (416) 736-5942 Fax: (416) 650-3552 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.yorku.ca/imba Schulich School of Business at York University is Canada’s top business school (Canadian Business 2001). The school’s IMBA program includes an overseas study term, a work internship abroad, foreign language study (including Japanese), and specialization in Asia, Europe, or the Americas. University of Toronto, School of Graduate Studies 63 St. George St., Toronto ON, M5A 4L8 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.utoronto.ca MA, PhD in AS Ontario Institute for Studies in Education of the University of Toronto 252 Bloor St. West Toronto ON, M5S 1V6 Website: http://www.oise.utoronto.ca/ MA, MEd, PhD in ED Quebec McGill University 945 Sherbrooke St. West Montreal QC, H3A 2T5 Tel: (514) 398-4455 Web Site: http://www.mcgill.ca MA, PhD in EAS; MBA with concentration in EAS
Scholarships The Paul Sargent Memorial Linguistic Scholarship Program offers two scholarships of $12,000 tenable for two years of study to students with previous exposure to an oriental language. Eligible candidates must be Canadian with a bachelor’s degree in the language concerned. http://www.aucc/en/programs/sargent.html. Publications Awards for Study in Canada, available from the Canadian Bureau for International Education, 220 Laurier Avenue West, Suite 1100, Ottawa Ontario, K1P 5Z9, Tel: (613) 237-4820, Fax: (613) 237-1073 http://www.cbie.ca Going to Canada To Study, available from the Council of Ministers of 192
School to Back Education Canada, 252 Bloor Street West, Suite 5-200, Toronto ON, M5S 1V5, Tel: (416) 964-2551 Canadian University Distance Education Directory and The Directory of Canadian Universities, priced $45.00 in Canada, $49.00 in the USA and $59.00 elsewhere; available from Elizabeth Clarke and Associates, 392 March Road Suite 231 Box 1, Kanata Ontario, K2K 2E1, Tel: (613) 271-1095, Fax: (613) 599-7027, Email: [email protected] Internet resources Canadian Bureau for International Education http://www.cbie.ca Canadian Information Centre for International Credentials http://www.cmec.ca/cicic/indexe.htm Natural Science and Engineering Research Council http://www.nserc.ca Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council http://www.sshrc.ca Canadian Education on the Web http://www.oise.utoronto.ca/~mpress/eduweb.html Second Language Education on the Web http://www.oise.utoronto.ca/~aweinrib/sle Vancouver English Centre http://www.vec.bc.ca Alberta Distance Education and Training http://athabascau.ca/html/collab/adeta Distance Learning British Columbia http://www.learning.bc.ca/index.html Calendar of University Distance Education Courses in the Atlantic http://www.dal.ca/aau/calindex.htm Distance Education Courses in Ontario http://node.on.ca/courses Intergovernmental On-line Information Kiosk http://www.intergov.gc.ca/edu/index.html Association of Canadian Community Colleges http://www.accc.ca Republic of Ireland The Republic of Ireland has six universities, Trinity College being the most famous. There are also a host of colleges throughout Ireland, which provide a wide range of courses. Central Applications Office, Tower House, Eglington Street, Galway,
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School to Back Tel: (091) 563318, 563269, Fax: (091) 562344. This association provides information for prospective students and processes applications for entry to universities and other academic institutions. Dublin City University Dublin 9 Tel: (01) 704-5566 Fax: (01) 836-0830 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.dcu.ie MA Cultural Studies and Communication, MA International Relations, MA Translations Studies (Japanese) University College Dublin Belfield, Dublin 4 Tel: (01) 706-7777 Fax: (01) 269-4409 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.ucd.ie UCD offers courses in Cert/HDip TEFL. The HDip lasts nine months and requires two years of experience in TEFL teaching. The Cert TEFL requires no experience and lasts a year. Both courses are part-time evening courses. University of Limerick National Technological Park, Limerick Tel: (061) 333644 Fax: (061) 330316 Website: http://www.ul.ie MBA; MA in ∆, JP Trinity College Dublin 2. Tel: (01) 677-2941 Fax: (01) 677-1698 Email: [email protected] http:// www.tcd.ie MBA, MA International Peace Studies, Evening courses in Japanese. University of Cork Cork, Ireland Tel: (021) 902043 Fax: (021) 903223 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.ucc.ie Japanese can be studied as a language option in non-language courses. The university also offers TEFL courses. University of Galway University Road, Galway, Ireland Tel: (091) 524411 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.ucg.ie Offers no courses in TEFL or Japanese but contact the university at the address above for a list of other courses. If there is sufficient interest, the following colleges may offer evening courses in Japanese: St. Killian's Community School, Bray Coolmine Community School, St. Patrick's College, in Maynooth, and Cork Language Centre. 194
School to Back Scholarships International Section, Department of Education and Science Marlborough St., Dublin 1, Tel: (01) 809-5029 Fax: (01) 874-1933 Subjects: unrestricted. Tenable: at any university or higher institution in Ireland. Duration: one academic year. Value: IR£2,600 per year, IR £450 in summer school scholarships offered to Belgian, French, Italian and Spanish students. Open to: (a) students taking part in bilateral programs between the government of Ireland and the governments of Australia, Austria, Belgium, China, Denmark, Finland, Greece, Spain, and Switzerland; (b) students taking part in scholarship programs between the government of Ireland and the governments of France, Germany, Italy, and the United Kingdom; (c) students from Belgium, France, Italy, and Spain taking part in summer school scholarship exchanges. The University of Limerick Tuition fees for the first year of registration in TEFL programs are waived for students from the EC. EC students enrolled in other programs are also exempt from tuition fees for TEFL courses.
Additional contacts The Higher Education Authority, Marine House, Clannilliam Court, Dublin 2 Tel: (01) 661-2748 Fax: (01) 661-0492 Email: [email protected] http://www.hea.ie Irish Council for Overseas Students, 41 Morehampton Road, Dublin 4. http://www.sivl.ie National Council for Educational Awards, 26 Mountjoy Square, Dublin 1
Japan The following advice comes from Eric Stewart, a former JET from Ishikawa-ken who after three years on the JET Programme went through the ordeal of applying for a Monbusho award for postgraduate study in Japan. American students who are interested in obtaining a Master’s or doctorate in Japan should realize that their degree would not be given the same status that would accompany a degree from a US university. (I am unsure of how they are seen by other countries.)
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School to Back I have had several professors tell me that if one is serious about getting a graduate degree, it is best to enroll first in a degree program back home and then use a Monbusho award to do thesis research. If you do the Monbusho without being in a US university to begin with, they are unlikely to award you credit ex post facto.
Applications for graduate programs in Japan are submitted between October and December for courses beginning in April. With all the time involved in preparing application forms, as well as the time required by guarantors to make all the necessary arrangements, you should begin making your preparations six to eight months in advance.
In order to enter a Master's program in Japan, you are required to have completed 16 years of education and to have graduated from a four-year university program, or be recognized as having academic ability at this level. However, if you completed university in a country where it is possible to graduate with less than 16 years of education, you are qualified to enter graduate school in Japan provided you are 22 years old, and have been registered as a researcher, research student, etc., for at least one year.
For those thinking of going for a doctorate, you will need to have completed a master's, or to be recognized as having academic ability at this level or higher. Basic requirements In order to apply to a postgraduate program you will most likely need the following: an application form, a certificate of personal data obtained from your undergraduate university, your diploma, university transcripts, a medical certificate, a research essay and a summary from university, a letter of introduction from the head of department or lecturer from your undergraduate university, a copy of alien registration, certificate of permission to sit the entrance exam (for applicants who are in other graduate schools or working), and a photograph of yourself.
Some universities accept applicants to postgraduate studies based on submitted documents alone, but most require students to sit entrance examinations. Many programs require students to study as kenkyusei for a year before sitting the entrance exam. Kenkyusei, are usually selected based on submitted documents, but some schools 196
School to Back require applicants to contact a supervising instructor to obtain informal consent prior to admission. In this case, it is a good idea to write a letter of intent to the instructor in question.
Graduate school entrance exams usually consist of document screening, a short thesis, and oral questioning, as well as written tests in Japanese, English, and special subjects. Be prepared for a rather gruelling oral exam, where professors will take turns trying to tear your thesis to shreds. While examination dates vary depending on the school, most hold their graduate entrance exams from August to October. Some, however, hold them in February and March. Should you muck up the exam, you may want to consider other options, unless you are into going ronin for a year and then trying again.
As a rule, degrees obtained in Japan will be recognized in your home country, but it is probably a good idea to check before you enroll. University fees usually run around ¥3,000,000 to ¥6,000,000 per year. On the bright side, up to 80% of medical expenses may be reimbursed, and if you are a student you get a discount on the national railways.
For a detailed listing of majors offered at the undergraduate and postgraduate levels at universities throughout Japan, contact: The Information Centre, Association of International Education, Japan 4-5-29 Komaba, Meguro-ku, Tokyo 153-8503 Tel: (03) 5454-5216 Fax: (03) 5454-5236 Website: http://www.aiej.or.jp The AIEJ website has an English version and gives an in-depth indexing of all majors, as well as college and university numbers and addresses.
Another useful publication from the Information Centre is The Student Guide to Japan, which provides information regarding applications, entrance requirements, visas, scholarships, and resources to help you choose an appropriate institution
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Guarantors If you are changing your visa to a student visa, you will need a guarantor. In principal, guarantors must be Japanese nationals. However, foreigners who have lived in Japan for more than 10 years are also acceptable. In either case, your guarantor must have a steady income, and in most cases must show proof of this upon application. Working Officially, a student visa entitles you to work a maximum of four hours a day. You may work eight hours a day during summer holidays (usually July 1st to August 31st). Information Services, The Student Exchange Division, Science and International Affairs Bureau, Monbugakusho - 3-2-2 Kasumigaseki, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-6090 Sources of funding There are many useful reference publications available for those wishing to obtain scholarships to study in Japan. The most helpful is AIEJ 1997 Scholarship Guide for International Students in Japan. This document lists about 200 private and city-sponsored scholarships for foreign students. It is a gold mine of information.
Another useful document is the Outline of the Student Exchange System in Japan, a Monbusho publication with lots of graphs and statistics, but also containing some useful information. Get it from the Student Exchange Division of Monbusho in Tokyo, 3-2-2 Kasumigaseki, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100, Tel: (03) 3581-4211 ext. 2625, Fax: (03) 3592-1305.
A good source of reference for scholarships in Japan and around the world is Study Abroad, published by UNESCO (see their address under “international scholarships” in the TEFL qualification section). This book, for ¥4,000, provides in-depth information regarding the various financial awards and scholarships available to foreign students in Japan. Most scholarships, however, will only cover a portion of your expenses, with the average monthly stipend being ¥71,000.
Further scholarships can be obtained through local governments, with aid covering not only tuition, but in many cases accommodation, national health insurance, and transportation. Additionally, 196 Back to School to Back “Honours” scholarships for excellent academic achievement are available, as well as “Peace and Friendship” scholarships. For these, you should apply to your department once you have been granted admission to the university.
Japanese private foundation scholarships, solicited from particular countries or regions where the enterprise or foundation has an interest, as well as educational institution scholarships provided by the university itself, provide even more possibilities for those in need of financial support. Fee waiving, usually of at least 30%, also helps ease the burden somewhat. The Matsumae International Foundation Room No. 6-002 New Marunouchi Bldg.1-5-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0005 Fax: (03) 3214-7613 Email: [email protected] http://www.mars.dti.ne.jp/~mif/ Twenty International Foundation Fellowships are awarded every year, with priority given to applicants in the fields of engineering, medicine, and the natural sciences. The fellowship is tenable at any institution in Japan and is open to all nationalities (Japanese excluded) who have obtained a doctorate degree and who have over two years of research experience or who are deemed to possess equivalent qualifications by the screening board. Fellowships are available for up to 12 months, with recipients receiving a monthly allowance of ¥150,000, plus health insurance. Applications due by July 31st, 2002; fellowships begin in April 2003. Language Those who wish to pursue preparatory courses in Japanese prior to entering a graduate program should look into one of the following options • Week long courses are provided by Gaimusho (Ministry of Foreign Affairs) for members of JETAA currently teaching or currently pursuing certification to teach Japanese in the future. The courses are offered in the summer (for members from the US, Canada, Ireland, and the UK) and winter (for members from Australia, NZ, China, Korea, Germany, and France). These courses are completely free and competition is fierce. They require ni-kyu (second) level of the Japanese Language Proficiency Test, or equivalent. Ms. Yabuki or Ms. Sueoka of the Second Cultural Affairs Division at the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Tel: (03) 3580-3532, Fax: (03) 3592-0156 197 Back to School to Back • Sophia University: Summer of Asian Studies program. There are twelve courses, including introductory Japanese. The tuition and registration fee is ¥150,000 for two courses (3 credits each). Sophia University, Ichigaya Campus, 4 Yonbancho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102-0081, Tel: (03) 3238-4090, Fax: (03) 3238-4091, Email: [email protected] Website: 133.12.40.67 • Japanese Language School of the International Student's Institute. The Japanese Language School of the International Student's Institute, 3-22-7 Kitashinjuku, Shinjuku, Tokyo 169-0074 • Some universities offer language courses for their foreign students; so check with the university directly. Also, be sure to read the beginning of this section, for more information on summer Japanese language courses.
Other institutions The International University of Japan The Office of Student Recruitment, Yamato-machi, Niigata-ken 949-7277 Tel: (0257) 79-1105 Fax: (0257) 79-1188 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.iuj.ac.jp Consists of two graduate schools offering an MBA program and MA programs in International Development and Asia Pacific International Relations. All courses are taught entirely in English. It is now possible to apply on-line.
McGill University, McGill MBA Japan Room 327, Building 11, Sophia University, 7-1 Kioi-Cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102-8554 Tel/Fax: (03) 5215-1383 Email: [email protected] http://www.management.mcgill.ca/programs/mbajapan Through Sophia University, McGill University offers a 2-year MBA program in International Business Management. The program is structured to allow students to maintain full-time employment as they study.
Other useful addresses National Association of Special Training Schools of Japan Shigaku Kaikan Bekkan, 4-2-25 Kudan-kita, Chiyoda-ku,
198 Back to School to Back Tokyo 164-0073 Tel: (03) 3230-4814 Japan Society for the Promotion of Science 5-3-1 Kojimachi, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 102-0083 Tel: (03) 3263-1732 Association for the Promotion of Japanese Language Education 2F Korin Bldg., 1-13-19 Kita-shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 169-0074 Tel: (03) 5386-0080 Japan International Training Cooperation Organization (JITCO) 3-11 Kanda, Surugadai, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 101-0062 Tel: (03) 5562-3525 Provides technical training. Publications Japanese Colleges and Universities, Maruzen Co. Available for reference at all Japanese embassies and consulates. ABCs of Study in Japan and Student Guide to Japan, AIEJ. The Guide to Japanese Career and Vocational Schools, Sampo Ltd. Shihi Gaikokujin Ryugakusei no tame no Daigaku Nyugaku Annai, Daigaku Tsushin Co. Provides information in Japanese on entrance examinations. Japanese Language Institutes in Japan, the Association for the Promotion of Japanese Language Education. Provides a brief introduction to various institutes. Available for reference at all Japanese embassies and consulates. New Zealand The New Zealand academic year runs from January through November, with university courses beginning in March. Pre-enrolment for regular university courses takes place from mid-December. Correspondence courses are also available at certain institutions (Massey University among others), and those interested in enrolling usually apply by mid-January. Specific information regarding courses and dates of registration may be obtained from any New Zealand Embassy.
For anyone interested at studying at one of New Zealand's seven universities, homepage listings can be found at the following University of Otago-run site: http://cirdan.otago.ac.nz/web.nzlib.html.
199 Back to School to Back Information about costs, the academic year, possible funding, etc., can be found at http://www.nzeil.co.nz/
Massey University Private Bag 11-222,Palmerston, North Auckland, NZ Tel: (06) 350-6148 Fax: (06) 350-5698 Website: http://www.massey.ac.nz MA in JP; MEd Canterbury University Private Bag 4800, Christchurch, NZ Tel: (03) 364-2966 Fax: (03) 364-2999 Website: http://www.canterbury.ac.nz MA in JP University of Auckland Private Bag 92019 Auckland, NZ Tel: (09) 373-7999 Fax: (09) 373-7405 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.auckland.ac.nz Dip in JP, Asian Studies; GDip in Lang. Teaching Waikato University Private Bag 3105, Hamilton,NZ Tel: (07) 838-4439 Fax: (07) 838-4269 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.waikato.ac.nz/international MA in JP Linguistics Victoria University PO Box 600, Wellington, NZ Tel: (04) 463-5233 x 8013 Fax: (04) 463-5427 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.vuw.ac.nz MA, PhD in JP; Dip, MA in TESOL University of Otago PO Box 56, Dunedin, NZ Tel: (03) 479-8247 Fax: (03) 479-7377 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.otago.ac.nz MA, MLit, PhD in JP TEFL Auckland Language Centre PO Box 105-035, Auckland, New Zealand Tel: (64) 9-303-1962, Fax: (64) 9-307-9219 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.geosalc.co.nz
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Technical institutions Application deadlines for technical institutions are in September.
Auckland Institute of Technology Private Bag 92-006, Auckland, NZ Tel: (09) 307-9909 Fax: (09) 307-9860 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.ait.ac.nz 2-year diploma/BA course in JP Christchurch Polytechnic PO Box 22-095, Christchurch, NZ Tel: (03) 364-9651 Fax: (03) 379-1435 Website: http://www.chch.ac.nz Two-year tourism course; intensive JP; BA in JP Unitec Institute of Technology PO Box 92-025, Auckland, NZ Tel: (09) 815-4302 Fax: (09) 815-4301 Email:[email protected] Website: http://www.unitec.ac.nz Scholarships See information on the Commonwealth Scholarship Additional contacts Ministry of Education PO Box 1666, Wellington, NZ. Email: [email protected] http://www.teachnz.govt.nz New Zealand Vice-Chancellors Committee Ann Rutledge, International Manager PO Box 11-915 Wellington, NZ Direct Dial: (04) 801 8528 Phone: (04) 381-8508 Fax: (04) 381-8501 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.nzvcc.ac.nz Brochure on studying in NZ New Zealand University Students Association Rowena Tun, Office Administrator PO Box 10-191 Wellington, NZ Tel. (04) 498-2500 Fax: (04) 473-2391 http://www.students.org.nz
201 Back to School to Back New Zealand Education Trust, Education New Zealand PO Box 10-500, Wellington, NZ Tel: (04) 472-0788 Fax: (04) 471-2828 Email: [email protected] http://www.nzeil.co.nz/nzei.html Publications Education New Zealand 1991, and Handbook of Courses and Costs. New Zealand Education International. New Zealand Embassies and Consulates. The United Kingdom: Higher Education in Britain Tim Morey was a CIR in Aomori-shi The joy of doing postgraduate work in Britain is threefold. First, many British universities are top class research institutes, and have been so for more than 600 years. Second, entry to a British university is relatively easy—no standardised tests, no expensive exams.
You will need a good upper-second class in your undergraduate degree (though occasionally a lower-second class degree is acceptable). [For North American undergraduate degree holders, an upper-second is basically a 3.0 GPA on a four-point scale.] Some universities insist on an interview before awarding a place though an exception is usually made for people living abroad. Non-native English speakers have to reach the UCLES CPE standard of English proficiency for many courses, although this varies according to the course and institution.
Third, Britain is relatively cheap for foreign students. Tuition for a humanities research degree is between £6,500 and £7,000 for students outside the EC.A research science degree costs about £8,200 the average yearly living cost is about £5,800. Only Canada is cheaper for Western countries.
There are three basic types of courses. A Postgraduate Diploma is usually a nine-month taught course in subjects such as journalism or languages. Master’s degrees are offered in most subjects as taught courses. Taught master’s degrees (MA, MSc etc.) usually consist of twelve months full-time study with a research thesis to be completed within the year. MPhil and MLitt degrees are usually research degrees and usually take about two years to complete though MPhil are occasionally awarded for taught courses. A doctorate, normally a 202 Back to School to Back PhD or DPhil, is awarded after original research, and usually takes three years (full-time) or five years (part- time) to complete.
Opportunities for making money as a student do exist in Britain, though work visas are hard to come by. Aside from working in bars, etc., on the sly, many departments offer undergraduate tutorial teaching. Four hours a week of this would cover your rent and food.
It is also possible to do a joint PhD program in your home country and the UK. This is quite easy to do if your home university has a relationship with one in Britain.
The University of Wolverhampton runs an active map of British university homepages. Simply click on the icon for the city and college of your choice and it will take you to that homepage. This is useful if you want to study in a certain geographical area. The website also has useful links to sponsorship: http:// www.scit.wlv.acuk/ukinfo/uk.map.html.
Choosing your graduate program Most academics “study up and work down,” so get the best program at the best university that you can. You will need a research topic in mind before you begin looking into the current research and publications in your chosen field. It is very important not only to choose a graduate department that conducts quality research in your field, but also one that houses a professor who will be able to supervise your work. Ask previous instructors with similar research interests for information on the best departments, people, and publications. On the web you can check the ratings for universities in the UK at The Times Good University Guide http://www.the-times.co.uk/gug, or visit the Research Assessment Exercise.
The RAE gives official rankings for the quality of research being conducted at each institution by subject. http://www.hefce.ac.uk/Research/assessment/default.htm
The British Council http://www.educationuk.org. Also has The Current Research in Britain database available as a resource on individual professors’ research interests.
203 Back to School to Back All university web sites in Britain can be found through the Council’s web page. Check the graduate departments that you are interested in for information on: current research activities and publications; the size and profiles of the staff; facilities and academic resources; the department’s links to other institutions and bodies; application procedures and deadlines; entrance qualifications; cost and length of the programs; and possibilities for funding - especially research assistantships.
It is advisable to apply to several universities. After you have looked over the web pages, contact the universities directly for prospectuses, brochures and further information on research. Go over all the information you receive thoroughly and read the publications from the department staff who you anticipate working with. Check The Times Higher Education Supplement, http://www.thesis.co.uk to find out if any of the professors you want to work under are offering research assistantships.
Finally, prepare your research proposal. It should briefly summarise what you intend to do, and it should be based on the current research in your field. Make sure to leave yourself plenty of time to apply long before any deadlines. Competition for funding is fierce and it is often “the early bird who catches the worm.”
General information The academic year in Britain begins in September with closing dates for applications varying with each institution but generally at least four months prior to the start of the course. For further information on British postgraduate programs, get in touch with the British Council Education Service at one of the following two locations: British Council Kyoto, Education Counselling Service Kitashirakawa, Nishimachi 77, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto 606-8267 Tel: (075) 791-7151 Fax: (075) 791-7154 Inquiries M–F 10:00–18:00 http://www.britcoun.org The British Council Kagurazaka, 1-2 Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, 162-0825 Tel: (03) 3235-8031/8042 Fax: (03) 3235- 5477 Inquiries, M–F 13:00–17:00 Library Hours 10:00–21:00 Email: [email protected] 204 Back to School to Back Web Site: http://www.uknow.or.jp and http://www.educationuk.org and, http://www.britishcouncil.org/where/index.htm Internet resources British Academy http://wwwbritac.ac.uk Economic and Social Research Council http://www.esrc.ac.uk Natural Environment Research Council http://www.nerc.ac.uk The Royal Society (London) http://www.royalsoc.ac.uk The Royal Society of Edinburgh http://www.royalsoced.org.uk Scottish Education and Training http://www.educationukscotland.org Higher Education and Research Opportunities in the UK (HERO) http://www.hero.ac.uk Biotechnology and Biological Sciences Research Council http://www.bbsrc.ac.uk Recommended universities The universities listed below are known for their excellence in either education or Asian studies. The letters ‘R’ and ‘T’ stand for “research course” and “taught course”, respectively.
Birmingham University Edgebaston, Birmingham B15 2TT, Tel: (0121) 414-3344 Fax: (0121) 414-3971 http://www.bham.ac.uk MPhil, PhD in AS (R); MA in AS (T); MA International Studies (Contemporary Pacific Asia); MA Translation Studies The Centre for English Language Studies at the University of Birmingham, the home of COBUILD research, is widely regarded as the leading postgraduate centre for English language teaching in Europe. The department offers both campus-based and distance learning Postgraduate Cert/Dip/MA in TEFL/TESL starting in October and April each year. The distance learning courses can all be done from your home in Japan except for one-week for the summer seminar in Hiroshima during the certificate course. The certificate takes a year to complete while the diploma takes two years. The MA is awarded after completing the diploma and a dissertation. University of Bristol Senate House, Tyndal Avenue, Bristol, BS8 1TH, Tel: (0117) 928-7048 Fax: (0117) 929-3296 Email: [email protected] http://www.bris.ac.uk MEd in TEFL (T) PT Japanese courses available
205 Back to School to Back University of Cambridge Japan Research Centre, Faculty of Oriental Studies, Sidgwick Avenue, Cambridge, CB3 9DA Tel: (01223) 335100/335106 Fax: (01223) 335110 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.cam.ac.uk PhD in Oriental Studies (R); MPhil in Oriental Studies (T) Cardiff University Postgraduate Liaison Office, PO Box 921, Cardiff, CF1 3XQ Tel: (029) 2087-4587 Fax: (029) 2087-4627 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.cf.ac.uk MPhil, PhD in JS (R); MA in Applied Ling.; D, MA in Journalism (T) Durham University Old Shire Hall, Durham, DH1 3H, Tel: (0191) 374-2925 Fax: (0191) 374-3740Email: [email protected] http://www.dur.ac.uk MA, MLitt, PhD in Chinese/JP (R); Post Grad.Dipl. in JP (T)
University of Edinburgh, Centre for Japanese Studies 8 Buccleuch Place, Edinburgh, EH8 9LW, Tel: (0131) 650-4227 Fax: (0131) 651-1258 Email: [email protected] http://www.ed.ac.uk PhD in JS (R); MSc in JP. Evening classes in Japanese are available for about £100 a term or £253 a year. Telephone (0131) 650-4227
Essex University, Contemporary Japan Centre Colchester, C04 3SQ Tel: (01206) 87-3051 Fax: (01206) 87-3410 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.essex.ac.uk MA, PhD in JS (R); MA in JS (T); Dip/ Cert in TEFL Essex offers a variety of courses on the sociology, politics, and languages of East Asia. Taught courses include MA Sociology and Government of Japan, MA Study of Contemporary Japan, MA Study of Pacific Rim and Japan, and MA International Relations. Highly recommended. University of Leeds, Department of East Asian Studies Leeds, LS2 9JT Tel: (0113) 233-3460 Fax: (0113) 233-6741 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.leeds.ac.uk MA, DPhil, PhD in Chinese/JP (R), MA Asia Pacific Studies, Applied Translation Studies
206 Back to School to Back Jayne Moon, School of Education, University of Leeds, Leeds, LS2 9JT Tel: (0113) 233-4577 Fax: (0113) 233-4541 Email: [email protected] http://education.leeds.ac.uk/~edu/home.html University of Leicester Higher Degrees Office, University Road Leicester, LEI 7RH Tel: (0116) 252-2293/2298 Fax: (0116) 252-2447 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.le.ac.uk GC in TESOL; MA in Applied Ling. and (T)
University of London, School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS) Thornhaugh St., Russell Square, London, WC1H 0XG Tel: (020) 7637-2388 Fax: (020) 7436-3844 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.soas.ac.uk MPhil, PhD in EAS (R), MA in JP Applied Linguistics, Adult Lang, Ed. TESOL (T) in conjunction with the London School of Economics SOAS offers many different programs in Asian and African Area Studies, as well as Japanese linguistics, and Japanese Religions. The worlds leading centre for Asia and Africa studies.
University of Manchester, Greater Manchester Centre for Japanese Studies University of Manchester, Manchester, M13 9QQ Tel: (0161) 275-3255 Fax: (0161) 275-3354 Email: [email protected] http://www.man.ac.uk/MAN/JapanCentre/ D, MA in Applied Ling., International Relations (T); MEd, TESOL (T) Centre for International Studies in Education, University of Newcastle upon Tyne Newcastle upon Tyne, NEI 7RU, Tel: (0191) 222-6377 Fax: (0191) 222-5691 E-mail: [email protected] http://www.ncl.ac.uk/~nciseedu/ MEd in TESOL; MA Linguistics for TESL, International Cultural Exchange, International Studies; LLM International Trade The University of Nottingham, School of Education Nottingham, NG8 1BB Tel: (0115) 951-4543 Fax: (0115) 846-6600 Email: [email protected] http://www.nottingham.ac.uk/education/ MA in ELT, ED (T) 207 Back to School to Back Oxford University, Oriental Institute Pusey Lane. Oxford, OX1 2LE Tel: (0186) 527-8200 Fax: (0186) 527-8190 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.orinst.ox.ac.uk MLitt, DPhil in Oriental Studies (R) Centre for Applied Language Studies, University of Reading Whiteknights, PO Box 241, Reading, RG6 6WB Tel: (0118) 931-8511 Fax: (0118) 975-6506 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.rdg.ac.uk MA in TEFL (also by distance), D in TEFL Sheffield University Taught Graduate Admissions Office, 14 Favell Road, Sheffield, S10 2TN Tel: (0114) 22-24178 Email: [email protected] http://www.shef.ac.uk/~eas
The School of East Asian is the most prestigious faculty of its kind in Europe. Distance Learning courses include Postgraduate C/D/MA in Japanese Language and Society, and MA in Advanced Japanese Studies. These courses are also offered full-time on campus. The certificate and Diploma courses require no previous Japanese language ability. Students with Level 3 of the Japanese Proficiency Test can enrol in the master’s. For the MA in Advanced Japanese Studies, students are required to have passed Level 2 of the proficiency test. Also available on campus: MSc in East Asian Business. Stirling University, Scottish Centre for Japanese Studies Stirling, Scotland, FK9 4LA Tel: (01786) 46-6080 Fax: (01786) 46-6088 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.stir.ac.uk/japanese/ MLitt, PhD in JS. Currently not offering any taught Japanese programmes, though there is opportunity for research. Sussex University Postgraduate Admissions, Sussex House, Falmer, Brighton Sussex, BN1 9RH Tel: (01273) 67-8412 Fax: (01273) 67-8335 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.susx.ac.uk MLitt, PhD in JP; MPhil/DPhil in AS (R); MA in International Relations 208 Back to School to Back Warwick University Coventry, CV4 7AL Tel: (01203) 52-4585 Fax: (01203) 46-1606 Email: [email protected] http://www.warwick.ac.uk MA, MPhil, PhD. in ELT (R); D, MA in TESOL and Administration (T) The University of York The EFL Secretary, Language Teaching Centre University of York, York, YO10 5DD, Tel: (01904) 432480 Fax: (01904) 432481 Email: [email protected] Distance learning, MA teaching English to young learners. Japanese studies-other The Japan Foundation Nihongo Centre 27 Knightsbridge, London, SW1X 7QT Tel: (0207) 838-9955 Fax: (020) 7838-9966 Email: [email protected] http://www.nihongocentre.org.uk This is a support centre for teachers of Japanese throughout the UK. It has an inset training programme, annual language-related grant programmes, an advisory service, library, and resource centre. It also offers school visits and summer refresher courses for secondary school teachers. Information on adult education courses and private tutors is also available. The Japan Language Centre 27 Knightsbridge, London, W1X 7QT Tel: (0207) 838-9955 Publishes a list of Japanese language courses throughout Britain. The Japanese Local Government Centre, London Free Japanese classes at all levels for former JETs. Classes are held in the CLAIR office at Whitehall. Space, however, is limited. For more information, contact the centre directly at: (0207) 839-8500. The School of Oriental and African Studies, University of London Offers evening classes in Japanese and other Asian and African languages. Classes generally have less than 12 people and are usually 6:30–8:30pm on weekday evenings and 10:00am–12:30pm on Saturday. Fees are from £195 a term (one class a week for three months). Contact the School of Oriental and African Studies (SOAS), University of London, Thornhaugh St., Russell Square, London, WC1H 0XG Website: http://www.soas.ac.uk 209 Back to School to Back MBA in Europe European Masters in Management (EAP), A three-year course in management studies with each year spent in a different country. In addition, you will undertake three in-company placements lasting approximately 3 months in each country. Those interested must take the European Admission Test (EMAT) and go through a series of interviews. Test dates vary from country to country. http://www.eap.net EAP Paris -6 Avenue de la Porte de Champerret, 75838, Paris, CEDEX 17 Tel: (33) 1-44-09-33-00 Email: [email protected] ESCP-EAP Graduate School of Management Oxford 12 Merton St. Oxford, OX1 4JH, UK Tel: (44) 1865-263205 Fax: (44) 1865-251960 Email: [email protected] EAP Berlin -Europa Centre, Breitscheidplatz, 1000 Berlin 30, Germany Tel: (49) 30-245-80-20 Fax: (49) 30-245-80-231 EAP Madrid- Arroyofresno 1, 28035 Madrid, Spain Tel: (33) 1-386-25-11 Fax: (33) 1-373-92-29 Scholarships University of London Subjects: Humanities and Social Sciences for taught master's degrees Duration: 1 year. Value: £6,000 per year. Open to: candidates of all nationalities with a first degree. Applications: by May 1st to the Registrar Marshall Aid Commemorative Commission, Association of Commonwealth Universities 36 Gordon Square London, WC1H OPF Tel: (020) 7380-6700 Email: [email protected] http://www.acu.ac.uk/marshall
Subjects: any leading to the award of a British degree. Tenable: by American graduates at British universities. Duration: 2 academic years.Value: approximately £16,500 per year. Applications: by October 15th in the year preceding the award. Applications and information are available at British Embassies and Consulates across the United States. Electronic application forms are available on the website.
210 Back to School to Back The Japan Foundation 17 Old Park Lane, London W1Y 3LG, Tel: 020-7499 4726 Japan Foundation Grant Programmes include a fellowship programme for doctoral candidates. Additional contacts Arts and Humanities Research Board 10 Carlton House, London, SW1Y 5AH Tel: (020) 7969-5256 Fax: (020) 7969-5413 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.ahrb.ac.uk The National Union of Students 461 Holloway Rd., London, N7 6LJ Tel: (0207) 272-8900 Fax: (0207) 263-5713 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.nus.org.uk The British Academy, Postgraduate Studentship Office, 10 Carlton House Terrace, London, SW1Y 5AH, Tel: (0207) 969-5200, Fax: (0171) 969-5300 Email: [email protected] Association of Commonwealth Universities John Foster House, 36 Gordon Square, London, WC1H OPF Tel: (0207) 387-8572 Fax: (0207) 387-2655, Email: [email protected] Provides a series of short papers for students considering study abroad in Australia, Canada, New Zealand, South Africa, and the United Kingdom. There is also an awards series, which includes Awards for Postgraduate Study at Commonwealth Universities (1997-99 ed.), and Awards for University Teachers and Research Workers.
Publications Higher Education in the United Kingdom, Longman Group Ltd. Studying and Living in Britain: the British Council's Guide For Overseas Students and Visitors, Northcote House. British Universities' Guide to Graduate Studies, and Awards for Postgraduate Study at Commonwealth Universities, and The Guide to Postgraduate Studentships in the Humanities. Department for Education and Employment, Publications Centre, PO Box 6927, London E3 3NZ
211 Back to School to Back The United States of America The academic year usually runs from September through May, and is divided into two semesters. However, this may vary. Expect to pay outrageous sums of money to study at most Ivy League schools. Scholarships are available, but if you are an international student studying in America, expect to pay a high price regardless of where you go. Search engine programs, which select schools according to your profile, can be found at the following web sites: • http://www.usnews.com/usnews/edu/beyond/bcrank/htm Provides rankings of graduate’s schools in all fields of study. • http://www.apply.embark.com Allows you to apply to most top universities (in and outside of the U.S.) online. • www.globalcomputing.com/universy.html This is an active map and archive of higher education institution web-sites. A Step Beyond JET is a good source for information on graduate programs with an Asian, Japanese or TEFL focus. The book is a publication of the American Nationality Group (part of AJET), and costs ¥1000 plus ¥310 postage (slightly more for non-AJET members). To get a copy, contact your local AJET representative.
Japan-US Educational Commission Sanno Grand Bldg. 206, 2-14-2 Nagata-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo 100-0014 Tel: (03) 3580-3231 Fax: (03) 3580-1217 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.jusec.go.jp The Japan-US Educational Commission is a highly recommended source of information on American graduate schools. NAFSA: Association of International Educators 1860 19th St. NW Washington DC 20009
Testing Those interested in applying to pursue a master's degree in the United States should be sure to sit the necessary exams: GRE, GMAT, LSAT, TOEFL, etc. These tests may be taken at centres throughout Japan, and courses are offered in Tokyo among other places.
212 Back to School to Back The GRE and GMAT For general information on the GRE, contact Graduate Record Examinations (GRE), Educational Testing Service, PO Box 6000, Princeton, NJ 08541-6000, Fax: (609) 771-7906, Website: http://www.gre.org
For general information on the GMAT, contact Graduate Management Admission Test (GMAT), Educational Testing Service, PO Box 6103, Princeton, NJ 08541-6103, Tel: 1-800-GMAT-NOW, Fax: (609) 883-4339, Website: http://www.gmat.org
For information on GRE and GMAT preparatory courses offered in Japan contact Princeton Review in Tokyo at (03) 3376-4669. The Council of International Education Exchange also provides a pre-recorded telephone message in English providing information on both the GMAT and the GRE at (03) 5467-5520. To obtain an application form, send a self-addressed stamped envelope (22X28cm) to the address below. The return postage required for the GMAT exam is ¥190 for one copy, and ¥270 for two copies. The GRE exam requires postage of ¥270 for one copy and ¥390 for two copies. Send to Council's TOEFL Division, Cosmos Aoyama B1, 5-53-67 Jingumae Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150. The LSAT For those interested in pursing a master's degree in law, contact the Japan-United States Commission at (03) 3580-3231. To receive an application for the LSAT exam post a self-addressed stamped A4 envelope, including postage of ¥390 to the Japan-United States Commission, Sanno Grand Bldg. 206, 2-14-2 Nagatacho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, 100-0014. Vist their website at http://www.jusec.org. http://www.lsat.org TEFL International House Teacher Training, Centre for English Studies 330 Seventh Avenue New York, NY 10001, USA Tel: (1) 212-629-7300 Fax: (1) 212-736-7950 Email: [email protected]
213 Back to School to Back Programs of interest The Japanese Forum Held annually in Tokyo for prospective MBA students. The Japan MBA Forum Office, Institute for International Business Communication, Sanno Grand Bldg. 9th Fl., 2-14-2 Nagatacho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Tel: (03) 5521-5874, Fax: (03) 5521-5928. The School for International Training A popular venue for former JETs wishing to further their studies. Admissions Office, PO Box 676 Kipling Rd. Brattleborough, VT 05302-0676. Tel: 1-800-336-1616 Fax: 1-802-258-3500 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.sit.edu
Scholarships and Grants Rotary Foundation 1560 Sherman Ave. Evanston IL, 60201 Tel: (847) 866-3000 Fax: (847) 328-8554 Website: http://www.rotary.org
Scholarships in international studies: (a) 1 Year Ambassadorial, (b) 2 or 3 Multi-year Ambassadorial, (c) 6 month Cultural Ambassadorial. Eligibility: Open to citizens of any country where there is a Rotary Club regardless of age. Applicants should have completed at least two years of university coursework or equivalent professional experience prior to beginning scholarship studies. Rotarians and their kin are not eligible. The program favours students from developing countries. Maximum possible award: (a) up to $23,000, (b) $11,000 per year, (c) up to $10,000/up to $17,000. Academic Year and Cultural scholarships cover funding for specific expenses only. Deadlines vary, from March–July at least one year in advance, through your local Rotary Club George Washington University, Elliot School of International Affairs Stuart Hall 101, Washington DC, 20052 A one-year student exchange program with Kansai University in Osaka, Japan, that includes a scholarship Subjects: Japanese, history, economics, and political science. Value: tuition of $16,400 airfare and living expenses of $800 per month. Applications: by March 1st of the preceding year.
214 Back to School to Back Institute of International Education, USIA Fulbright Awards and Scholarships IIE, USIA Fulbright Student Program809 United Nations Plaza New York NY, 10017-3580Tel: (212) 984-5330 Email: [email protected] Website: http://www.iie.org
Subjects: all fields of study in the United States, graduate studies. Open to: candidates preferably under the age of 35. Foreign students should apply to the Bi-national Educational Commission or Foundation in their home country, or to the Cultural Affairs Office in the United States Embassy. IIE offices in the United States cannot accept direct applications from foreign applicants. American students should apply to their campus Fulbright Program Advisors by October 31st. IIE also has offices in Hong Kong, Mexico, and Thailand. Check with the nearest American Embassy. Monterey Institute of International Studies, JET Alumni Scholarships 425 Van Buren St. Monterey CA, 93940 Tel: (831) 647-4123 Fax: (831) 647-6405 Email: [email protected] http://www.miis.edu Subjects: International Policy Studies, International Business (MBA), International Public Administration, International Environ-mental Policy, TESL (MA), Teaching Foreign Languages (MA), Translation and Interpretation (MA), Commercial Diplomacy (MA). All programs except for TESL require the study of a second language. Duration: half tuition for 2 years. Applications: by March 1st for students entering the following summer or by October 1st for students wishing to begin in the spring. Women's Research and Education Institute, Congressional Fellowships on Women and Public Policy, Fellowship Program Director 1700 18th St. NW, DC 20009 For those interested in pursuing public policy/women's studies at the graduate level, this award is tenable in Washington, DC. Fellows are required to work for credit as legislative aids in congressional offices and as committee staff. International Fellowships for full-time graduate or postgraduate study or research in the United States are awarded to women who are not US citizens or permanent residents. Applicants must hold the equivalent of a US bachelor's degree on or before December 31st, 2002. Stipend: US$16,000. Applications requested August 1st to November 15th.
215 Back to School to Back Alpha Delta Kappa, International Teacher Education Scholarship 1615 W. 92nd St., Kansas City, MO 64114, Tel: (816) 363-5525 Fax: (816) 363-4010E-mail: [email protected] http://www.alphadeltakappa.org Open to: Women aged 20 to 35 with no dependants, who are non-U.S. citizens residing outside of the U.S. during the application and selection period. Applications: by January 1st American Association of University Women Educational International Fellowships, 2201 N. Dodge St., Dept. 89 Iowa City, IA 52243-4030 Web site: http://www.aauw.org Promotes education and equity for all women. Many fellowships and grants are awarded each year. Visit their web site to learn more. University of Hawaii & The Japan-America Institute of Management Science 6660 Hawaii Kai Drive Honolulu, HI 96825-1108 Tel: (808) 395-2314 Fax: (808) 396-7112 Email: [email protected] http://www.jaims.org 15-month Japan-focused MBA. At least one JET scholarship of ¥500,000 is available per year. For information call (03) 3730-3116. The application deadline is February 1st for US citizens, and January 13th for other countries. National Women's Studies Association 7100 Baltimore Ave., Suite 301 College Park, MD 20740, Tel: (301) 403-0524/0525 Fax: (301) 403-4137 Email: [email protected] Graduate scholarships for general, lesbian and Jewish women's studies. Sallie Mae's CASHE Database (http://www.salliemae.com) Receive a list of private scholarships, grants, fellowships and work-study programs based on your electronic profile: Financial Aid http://www.finaid.com Association of Graduate Students http://www.nagps.org
Publications A Guide to Scholarships, Fellowships and Grants: a Selected Bibliography. Institute of International Education.
216 Back to School to Back Travel Advice
Travelling, for many of us, is an integral part of our JET experience. The chance to get out and explore other countries—or just to take it easy on a beach somewhere—is too good to miss. This chapter provides information to help you get the most out of your vacation time and money. It also contains practical advice on a range of travel issues, from visas and health to insurance, transport and more. The accompanying travelogues, all of which were written by JETs, and cover more than sixty countries, are intended to provide snapshots of great locations. Although the travelogues are subjective, I hope they are also interesting and informative.
A big “thank you” to all the past and present JETs who have contributed their time, talent, ideas, and effort into this section of Jet & Beyond.
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General Travel Advice
Read your travel guide THOROUGHLY before you set off, especially sections detailing warnings/scams etc. Remember that most people travel safely without a hitch but prior knowledge will help you to deal with any difficult situations should they arise. Also, careful planning can make a budget stretch much further.
Visit your local travel or health clinic and update your immunisations. Some inoculations need to be administered over a period of weeks, so inquire early. Label the bottles and carry a copy of the prescription for any medications you carry. If possible, try to get your immunisations done before you leave home. Inquire early to find out if you need a visa for where you're going. When arriving in a new country make sure to register with police, if required, or to get any necessary internal travel permits.
Never offer a bribe. If that is what is obviously required, ask whether there is a “service fee applicable” or, better still, get a local resident to inquire on your behalf. Watch out for customs officials at small, remote countries border posts. They might cause you problems just because they are bored. Even if you are examined with exasperating thoroughness, handle yourself in a patient and civil manner. Do not joke around, display irritation, take pictures, write notes in a diary, or do any other apparently innocent act that could be twisted into charges of espionage. It has happened to JETs before!
It is a good idea to bring at least one set of light but reasonably presentable clothes in the event that you need to make an emergency trip to an embassy or government office.
Choose someone at home that you can trust to be your contact person. Make a rough itinerary for them, including countries, approximate dates, addresses etc. If you're going somewhere remote take the additional precaution of registering with the nearest embassy or consulate. If you want to receive mail you can use AMEX, or Poste Restante offices worldwide. Better still, get an email address that you can use internationally, so it is possible to look up and send emails all over the world.
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Travel books get heavy, so consider bringing only copies of essential pages. Carry only a copy of your address book to save a lot of frustration if it gets lost or stolen.
Overall, remember travelling takes patience, especially in many parts of Africa and Asia. A simple lunch at a restaurant can take up to two hours. There is little point in stressing yourself out because you are not going to change a society during your visit. Making your own travel agenda Before you head to the airport, it is important to put some thought and research into where you are going. What are your expectations? Do you want to see the famous sights, or go off the beaten trail? Do you want to travel in style with several friends, or go alone and play it one day at a time?
Choosing travel partners and setting budgets basically comes with practice. Many friendships have been put to the test by the stresses of travel: negotiating accommodation /eating arrangements/ whether to stay or move on, etc. Try to agree on basic itineraries before you depart and remember to remain flexible. As for making an agenda, it is a good idea to consult with travel agents and talk with friends who have taken similar trips.
The information that you can get from those who have gone before you will be invaluable. When it comes to researching your travel destination, remember that there is a vast amount of travel literature out there, be it in printed form or on the Internet. The chances are that, no matter where you want to go or what you want to do, there will be a website/book for you to reference.
Travel magazines and newsletters Transitions Abroad Published every two months, this magazine has been running for more than twenty years. Each issue deals with a different topic of interest to independent travellers for details write to PO Box 1300, Amherst, MA 01004-1300, U.S. (fax: 413 256 0373) or www.Transitionsabroad.com
The Globe
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A somewhat idiosyncratic magazine produced by the London based Globetrotters' Club. It is free if you join the Globetrotters’ Club (BCM Roving, London, WC1N 3XX, UK). The club aims to help travellers network information http://www.globetrotters.co.uk
Planet Talk Free quarterly newsletter put out by Lonely Planet. It's full of tips from travellers, authors, and the owner/founders of Lonely Planet, Tony and Maureen Wheeler. Simply ask to be put on the mailing list. See http://www.lonelyplanet.com or write to Lonely Planet, 10 Barley Mow Passage, London, W4 4PH, UK; or at Embarcadero West, 155 Filbert St., Suite 251, Oakland CA 94607 USA
National Geographic Traveller Manages to be both glossy and informative and is a monthly publication there's an online edition at http://www.nationalgeographic.com/traveler. A one-year subscription for the print edition costs $25.50. Full details can be found on the same website.
The South American Explorer. This magazine is produced by the South American Explorers, a non-profit organisation founded in 1977. It contains articles on everything from history and archaeology to practical advice for the do-it-yourself traveller. A subscription costs $22 per year, plus an extra $10 for subscribers outside the U.S. [email protected] 126 Indian Creek Rd., Ithaca, NY, 14850, USA, Tel/Fax: (607) 277-0488. http://www.saexplorers.org.
ABROAD It is a Japanese monthly publication found in most bookstores but is easily deciphered. Tour packages are listed for all over the world. ¥450
Farang (meaning “foreigner” in Thai) French language newsletters are clear, concise reports and an excellent source for recent information on Southeast Asia. Write to Jose Bernard, La Rue 8, B.A. 261, Braives, Belgium.Tel: (019) 69 9823. Send a donation for a sample copy.
Globetrotters Magazine, along with Cocktail 220
For French speakers who join ABM (Aventure du Bout du Monde, 11 bis rue Maison Diue, 75014 Paris, France, Tel: (1) 43-35-08-95) Travel books The Alternative Travel Directory - The Complete Guide to Travelling, Studying & Living Overseas. A gold-mine of information with address-packed sections on topics including special interest vacations, responsible travel programs and independent travel resources. Published by the editors of the Transitions Abroad magazine, it costs $19.95 plus postage. For information contact Transitions Abroad.
The Travellers Handbook (Melissa Shales, The Globe Pequot Press, USA, 1988). Another nifty little reference book packed with addresses and annotated bibliographies, vaccine tables and so on.
OAG Worldwide (Church St., Dunstable, Beds, LU5 4HB, UK, Fax: 44(0) 1582-695230) A series of quarterly updated travel reference books, their Guide to International Travel has up-to-date information on airport facilities, visa regulations, customs etc, for 215 countries worldwide. The OAG Cruise and Ferry Guide lists most of the world’s accessible shipping services, with timetables, cruise ship itineraries and passenger-carrying freighters.
The OAG Air Travel Atlas shows all possible world air routings pictorially, while the OAG World Airways Guide is the travel agents’ bible of all world flight details. In Japan, call OAG Worldwide office. Tel: (03) 3573-3191, Fax: (03) 3573-3199.
The Thomas Cook European Timetable This is extremely useful for anyone travelling on a Eurail pass. It lists almost 50,000 passenger rail service schedules together with passenger shipping schedules for every European country. Thomas Cook also publishes an Overseas Timetable, which provides information on railway, road and shipping services for America, Africa, Asia and Australasia. Both books are available in the major bookstores in Japan at a cost of ¥2750. Or order direct from the Forsyth Travel Library at www.forsyth.com, E-mail: [email protected] each book costs $32.90 including postage and packing. The European Timetable is published in the UK on the first day of each month; the Overseas Timetable is published six times per year: January, March, 221
May, July, September and November.
Alternative travel guides Moon Travel Handbooks (Moon Publications). Include cultural, historical and political information. Written by experienced travellers this series is particularly good on Asia, Latin America and the South Pacific (the single volume South Pacific Handbook is particularly recommended). www.moon.com
Rick Steves' Country Guides (John Muir) deal with Europe and contain good information on transport, accommodation and food for those on a budget. Updated annually. http://www.ricksteves.com.
Ulysses Travel Guides (Ulysses Travel Publications). This is for the up-market traveller. They provide cultural, historical, and artistic information. www.ulyssesguides.com
Nelles Guides (Seven Hills Books). They are a relatively new addition to the travel guide market. Good photographs and, in addition to the standard material, there are essays on native cooking, art and festivals.
Bradt Guides (Globe Pequot Press). Focuses on some of the less travelled parts of the world (Rwanda, for example). Good maps and well-written sections on local culture and natural history. http://www.bradt-travelguides.com/system/index.html
Recommended on-line travel sites http://www.frommers.com Encyclopaedia of Travel. http://www.fodors.com Fodders Travel. http://www.roughguides.com Rough Guides http://www.budgettravel.com Budget Travel. http://www.got.com Global Online Travel http://www.vtourist.com Virtual Tourist http://www.cnn.com/TRAVEL CNN Travel http://www.travlang.com/languages Languages for travel 222 http://www.iagora.com Networking service for travellers http://www.ricksteves.com European travel info, good on rail http://www.worldtravelguide.net Comprehensive travel info http://www.railserve.com Worldwide rail travel information http://www.netcafeguide.com Internet cafes around the world http://www.artoftravel.com European and World Backpacking http://travel.epicurious.com Conde Nast budget travel info http://www.towd.com World-wide Directory, tourism offices http://www.city.net European info, city and subway maps http://www.iyhf.org Database of hostels in 75 countries
Getting There
Air travel The airline industry has been particularly affected by the September 2001 terrorist attacks on New York and Washington, D.C. The whole industry is in a state of flux. In the US and throughout the world, heightened airport security, earlier check-in times (in many cases, four hours instead of two) and greater restrictions on carry-on baggage have been just some of the immediate changes. As new legislation takes effect and new security equipment is installed in airports, the security measures that surround flying are likely to intensify. Now, more than ever, it is necessary to be aware of your airline's security arrangements well in advance of your flight date. Regardless of when you are flying, here are some general points to bear in mind. Ensure that you understand how the ticket you intend to buy actually works. Discounted air tickets tend to very inflexible—if you cancel or change a discounted ticket you will almost certainly incur a financial penalty. There are also often restrictions on the minimum and maximum amount of time you must be away.
Many countries will not let you in unless you already have an onward ticket out of the country. If you don't know what your plans are at that time, either buy the cheapest ticket to somewhere nearby or buy a flexible ticket that can be altered if necessary.
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Do not forget to re-confirm tickets at least 72 hours prior to departure, or else you could lose your seat. In many countries where the infrastructure is less than modern, you can save yourself a potential headache by reconfirming your departure immediately upon arrival. On the day of your flight, check-in with plenty of time to spare in order to avoid being “bumped” (losing one’s place). In the US, if you are bumped because of overbooking and the airline fails to get you to your destination within four hours of your original scheduled arrival time, you are entitled to compensation of $400 or double the one-way fare, whichever is greater. Note that if you are bumped because of a change of aircraft or weather you won't be entitled to compensation. Also, the level of compensation varies from country to country. On certain airlines, notably in Western countries, cancellation of flights, delays, and bumping can be to the advantage of unhurried passengers. In such cases, volunteering to be bumped can get you vouchers for free tickets, though before you volunteer make sure that you are guaranteed a seat on a later flight and not just put on standby.
This system is not applicable in most of Asia. Indeed, in many countries one should almost expect a delay of a day or two. Sometimes, there is a blackboard rather than computers at check-in, so it is first come, first serve. Bumping in China occurs when there happens to be more boarding passes than seats. There is no compensation, so check in early.
If you have no ticket, you can still sometimes get on. You may even gain a discount by turning up at the airport and queuing for a standby (issued when there are unfilled seats or cancellations). This is popular even where no discount exists, e.g. in China, where booking is difficult.
Treat your ticket as if it was cash. If your ticket is lost or stolen contact both the airline and the police at once. Although airlines are not legally obliged to replace your ticket, most will do so after making some inquiries. A police report is likely to speed up the replacement process. Before your journey begins, photocopy your tickets and keep them in a safe place. If you feel you are being treated unfairly by an airline you can ask to see their Conditions of Carriage. You have a right to see it. This document is essentially the contract you make with the airline when you buy your ticket (many, but not all, of the conditions can be found on the ticket). 224
Knowledge of your rights will help you should you run into any difficulties. Terry Trippler, an expert on air travel, has compiled 'Rules of the Air', consumer-oriented catalos of airlines rules and regulations. See http://www.OneTravel.com. Similarly detailed information is also available, on an airline-by airline basis, from the US Air Transportation Association at http://www.air-transport.org (1301 Pennsylvania Ave., Suite 1100, Washington, DC 20004.) Round the world tickets 'Round the World' tickets are a popular option for many travellers. Although more expensive than a basic return flight, RTW tickets allow you to do just what their name suggests. You can go anywhere the carrying airlines go as long as you don't backtrack. When buying your ticket you decide the number of stopovers you wish to make and, in most cases, you must complete your journey in a year.
As the popularity of RTW tickets has grown in recent years, the number of travel agents specialising in this field has increased. This is another area of the travel business where it definitely pays to shop around. Seven Seas Travel of Yokohama offers a round the world deals with a maximum of 15 stopovers. The itinerary should include one Pacific and one Atlantic crossing. The ticket is valid for one year and there is no charge to change the dates of your flights. The price depends on the mileage of your itinerary, for example, 29000 miles costs from $1400. E-mail: [email protected] if you visit http://www.airtreks.com you can create an itinerary for round the world trips.
Avia Travel in San Francisco sells double back tickets. The ticket might be something like Japan>SE Asia>Japan>US. This works out as a great deal, and gives you the “free holiday” in Asia instead of your home country. Avia Travel also offers some good deals on "Going Home the Long Way". You can choose to go home via Asia or the South Pacific or via Europe/India/Africa. Indeed there are so many possible itineraries that you should contact them direct with your preferred dates and countries. http://www.aviatravel.com or email at [email protected]
If you are departing from Japan but live outside the major cities then you may want to check out the local airports for international flights. For example, from Toyama, there are four scheduled flights 225 to Seoul as well as one a week to East Siberia. Korean Air or Asiana connects many regional airports to Seoul.
You can use this as a springboard to worldwide destinations. Although the prices may seem a little more expensive initially, you might save both time and money by departing from Japan. Air hitch There is now a special company that specializes in finding a cheap place on a flight somewhere near your destination within a five-day period that you specify (unfortunately this service is not available from Japan). Register this period ahead of time, and then call back near the date to find where and when you will be flying. For example, you may ask for Brussels, and be given a ticket to Amsterdam. Apparently 90% of customers get their requested destination or within reasonable ‘commuting distance’. Obviously, this system works best for the busy trans-Atlantic routes, where cities tend to be close together. Fixed price on US (east coast) to Europe is $169 one-way. Contact Air hitch at 2790 Broadway, Suite 100, NY, NY 10025 USA. http://www.airhitch.org
Air courier tickets Sending urgent packages by express airmail will take a minimum of three days. This is just not fast enough for some business documents, so a niche has arisen for “air couriers,” who are normal travellers prepared to travel light. The courier company uses the traveller’s baggage allowance for their urgent material. All you have to do is 1) not be late, and 2) hand over the baggage to a representative at the other end. In return, you can save up to 85% off the regular airline ticket price. Unlike normal tickets, the price gets cheaper the later you book, if a place is available. Occasionally you can even get free tickets if you call at the last moment and do not mind where you go.
Courier flights will only operate on major commercial routings. The most common ones are the trans-Atlantic and trans-Pacific routes. There are also various routes out of Hong Kong and Singapore. The majority of flights are sold on a fixed period return basis, anywhere from one week to six months depending on the location. The companies are not travel agents, but booking ahead is suggested if you have a specific destination and travel date in mind. Air Courier Travel http://www.courier.org 226
Suggested reading Air Courier Bargains: How to Travel Around the World for Next to Nothing. Kelly Monaghan. (1995, 5th Ed.) The Intrepid Traveller. 240 pages of clearly written advice, anecdotes and practical details. It costs $14.95 plus p&p. PO Box 531, Branford, Connecticut 06405. Tel: (203) 4885341. http://www.theintrepidtraveler.com Freighter Travel Contrary to popular belief, it is possible to go home by cargo ship. However, you really have to want to do so, as the costs are steep (usually between US$80-$175 per day of passage plus between $10-$210 in port taxes and insurance). Even from Japan, flying is usually cheaper.
There is no deck passage, just cabins with private shower and bath. The number of freight lines accepting passengers is limited. Despite high prices and unreliable itineraries (the ship will miss a port if there is nothing to pick up), most cabins are filled six months ahead of departure and are often sold on a round-trip cruise basis, rather than as port-to-port hops. There are several agencies that specialize in freighter travel, but all tend to offer the same handful of routes. Carolyn’s Cruises 32 Garner Drive, Novato, CA 94947, USA. Tel: (415) 897-4039. Fax: (415) 898-0455 Freighter World Cruises, Inc. 180 So. Lake #335S, Pasadena, CA 91101, USA, Tel: (818) 449-3106 produces a bi-weekly Freighter Space Advisory pamphlet that lists a range of companies. Assumes a US starting point in most cases, even for the Japan-Ecuador service. Publications Freighter Travel News. Freighter Travel Club of America, 3524 Harts Lake Rd, Roy, WA 98580, USA Ford's Travel Guides: Freighter Travel. Updated twice a year.
English speaking discount travel agents
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Companies with outlets throughout Japan A ‘cross travel http://www.across-travel.com No.1 Travel http://www.no1-travel.com STA Travel http://www.statravel.co.jp Kyoto Milky Way. Phone: (075) 256 2652 Fax: (075) 255 5754. [email protected] Nagasaki NTA Nippon Travel. Phone: (0958) 24 5416. Fax: (0958) 25 8552. [email protected] Okinawa Air Okinawa. Phone: (098) 867 0166. Fax: (098) 866 7662. [email protected] Osaka GS Travel. Phone: (06) 6281 1230. Fax: (06) 6281 1255. [email protected] Time Travel. Phone: (06) 6271 7121. Fax: (06) 6271 7174. [email protected] Sapporo H.I.S. Phone: (01) 1222 3810. Fax: (01) 1222 3819. [email protected] Northern Travel. Phone: (01) 1232 5400. Fax: (01) 1232 5402. [email protected] Tokyo Air Net Travel. Phone: (03) 5456 5677. Fax: (03) 5456 5678. [email protected] Can Tour. Phone: (03) 3352 5200. Fax: (03) 3352 5225. [email protected] Flex International. Phone: (03) 3233 8861. Fax: (03) 3233 0228. [email protected] GM Travel. Phone: (03) 3358 5126. Fax: (03) 5269 7699. [email protected] Hit Travel. Phone: (03) 3473 9040. Fax: (03) 3473 9041. [email protected] J-Booker. Phone: (03) 5330 1282. Fax: (03) 5330 0048. [email protected] Just Travel. Phone: (03) 3362 3441. Fax: (03) 3362 3933. K & K Travel. Phone: (03) 3590 6711. Fax: (03) 3590 6713. Starlight Travel. Phone: (03) 3446 1775. Fax: (03) 3446 1973. [email protected] 228
Sweet Travel. Phone: (03) 3377 7200. [email protected] Travel Hero Corporation. Phone (03) 3555 5888. Fax: (03) 3551 3100 [email protected] Yokohama Seven Seas Travel. Phone: (045) 451 3221. Fax: (045) 451 3229. [email protected]
The Essentials
Visas Before travelling, make sure you understand all the visa requirements. Being turned back at passport control because you lack the correct documents is not much fun. Contact the embassy to check what you need and how long the processing will take (see the Visa and Embassies section in this book for details about contacting specific embassies).
Many embassies refuse to accept applications by mail, as they do not want to be responsible for lost passports. This means that if you cannot go in person to the consulates on a weekday morning (and, in some cases, hang around for a couple of days to collect it), you will need to get a travel agent to do it for you. Each country has a different procedure, but you will need: • Passport photos • Official application form(s) • Your passport • Copies of your ARC (gaijin card) • A fee • Flight numbers/copies of tickets. Onward or return tickets are commonly required. Longer visas may require you to prove “sufficient funds.” Other important documents Keep a second and third copy of your address book and send the original home. Losing your one and only address book can be a heartbreaking experience. Also, make two photocopies of the important parts of your passport: the front few pages, plus your Japanese visa, extensions and re-entry permit if you are coming back. Your passport must remain valid until well after your trip.
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Some countries stipulate a certain minimum period. Leave one copy with a friend and carry the other separate from your passport. If you lose your passport, this may help speed the re-issue process. Copies of your birth certificate, credit cards, airline tickets, travel documents, etc. may also prove useful in tricky situations. Bring your alien registration card with you when leaving Japan.
An international driver’s license is always useful. You can get one from your home country’s motoring organization(s). ISIC Student Cards can save you a lot of money in certain countries and get you substantial discounts on international flights. They can be bought through STA for $22 or you can order via the Internet at http://www.counciltravel.com.
Valuables The biggest travel worry is always where to keep your passport and money. Do not keep them in a backpack or waist bag as these are too visible and easily removed. If you are in higher-risk areas, and feel vulnerable, wear a money belt beneath your clothes. This should contain some of your traveller’s checks, and other important but replaceable documents such as student cards, driver’s license and a copy of your address book. Carry a certain amount of cash in pockets but keep your real valuables (passport, credit cards, high value traveller’s checks) in the deep pockets of a pair of underclothes. The money belt will hopefully be protection enough, but keeping real valuables hidden could prove indispensable should you be harried by a determined, threatening attacker who is unsatisfied with just the cash in your pockets.
Take care when putting valuables in a hotel safe. Make a list of what you have and, when it is returned, check that it is all there. One JET reported, “A Malaysian hostel returned my bundle of traveller’s checks, but three or four were missing from the middle of the stack. By the time I checked, I was in Thailand.” American Express TCs are refundable if you get a police report and take it to an Amex office. Be more careful about cash and credit cards (used, but not stolen) in such situations.
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Money Carrying traveller’s checks (TCs) is undoubtedly the safest option. American Express, Thomas Cook and Visa are the most recognized, and usually offer instant replacement in the case of loss or theft. (Remember to make a record of the serial numbers of your TCs.) However, in remote areas, border crossings and in places where there is a dual economy or strong black market, bringing a certain amount of hard currency can be essential.
Changing TCs into cash may be very expensive or impossible in such areas. Watch carefully and always talk to other travellers first to check rates, scams, etc. If you get stuck with no local currency, and the banks decide to shut for a five-day festival, you can always find an entrepreneur who will exchange your dollars.
For Europe, Thailand, Korea, and Australia/New Zealand, you might as well get your TCs in Yen, rather than US$, thus saving extra conversion charges. However, in North America, and particularly in Micronesia, there is an expectation that you will bring dollars. Trying to change any other currency can be expensive, if not impossible. Credit cards are a very useful backup, though the extent of their acceptance varies considerably. Be aware of hefty surcharges and changes in exchange rates. Eventual costs could be greater than anticipated. Insurance CLAIR has provided us with accident insurance that covers our JET vacations (except for periods of more than 30 days spent in our own home country). For non-renewers, coverage includes 30 days after leaving the program. Claim through Yasuda Fire and Marine Insurance Co., English hotline Tel: (0120) 08-1572 (toll free) in Japan, or if you are abroad, call collect (reverse charge): +81 (3) 3593-1572. The Yasuda policy deals only with health matters, so for current and non-renewing JETs alike, an additional travel insurance policy covering theft and loss is a sensible move.
Travel agents issue all-encompassing insurance, but as a rule, insurance bought in Japan is not applicable unless you are returning to the country. So, if you are not returning and want travel insurance, you will either need to 1) get it through your home country, or 2) have a Japanese friend apply on your behalf as your “contractor.” 231
The added disadvantage with the latter is that any “fly-me-home” clause would of course bring you to Japan. The International Student Travel Association (STA) is good value, covers most eventualities and student status is not a requirement. The American Automobile Association also provides insurance for American travellers.
In Asia and Africa, health insurance is worth only peace of mind, but it is a good idea for Europe and North America, where there is a higher statistical chance of injury, better medical facilities and more expensive hospital costs. As with any type of insurance, you file in the country where the insurance was purchased. Before they will accept a claim, insurance companies require evidence that you have paid medical expenses, or in the case of theft, a copy of a police report. The police report usually must be filed within 48 hours of the incident.
Travel insurance often EXCLUDES skiing, scuba diving, motoring accidents in rented cars and trip cancellation or interruption when your airline or tour company suddenly leaves you stranded. Be sure to read the fine print to see that you have adequate coverage.
Credit card insurance protects your credit cards against fraudulent use and can save you a considerable amount of money. This is especially important in Thailand, where some 90% of the developing world’s credit card fraud occurs. Many people wrongly assume that their cards are protected. So that you are prepared for all eventualities, always carry your policy numbers and proof of insurance with you when travelling.
Scuba insurance For scuba divers, accidents are not usually covered by normal insurance policies. Consider a supplemental policy from Diver’s Alert Network (DAN). These policies are not expensive, but provide essential care in the event of a diving accident. Peace of mind is probably worth 5,500 a year. DAN (JAPAN) Japan Marine Recreation Assoc. 3-8 Mejiro, 1-Chome Toshima-ku, Tokyo 171 Tel: (03) 3590-6501 Fax: (03) 3590-8325
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Safety For up-to-date information on politically unstable regions and destinations to avoid, see the homepage of your own country's foreign affairs department.
Australia: http;//at.gov.au/travel/index.html Canada: http://voyage.dfait~maeci.gc.ca/destinations/menu.e.html Ireland: http://gov.ie/iveagh/ New Zealand: http://www.mfat.govt.nz/travel/ United Kingdom: http://www.fco.gov.uk/travel United States: http://travel.state.gov/travel_warnings.html Packing tips A sturdy backpack with a small daypack is undoubtedly the best combination. You might want to buy a backpack cover too. These are cheap and fit easily over the bulk of the rucksack, making any tempting looking zips or clasps less accessible to the would-be-thief. Put name/ address labels both outside and INSIDE your pack. Travel as lightly as possible and choose clothes that are versatile. Bring extra passport photos for unexpected visas, permits, etc. Carry a small flashlight, a padlock for hostel doors (cheap places often use the padlock system, but their locks are insecure), a penknife, and a lockable chain to fasten your bag to the tops of buses and train luggage racks. Bring some laundry soap, as laundrette’s may be non-existent.
Health News
Please note that the information below constitutes a personal, practical view compiled by recreational travellers, rather than professional advice. Before departing, check with the relevant embassies or consulates about necessary inoculations and specific health precautions.
While health deserves serious consideration, there is no need to become paranoid when travelling. Before rushing out and getting prophylactic inoculations, malaria pills, and water purifiers, check that you really need them for where you are going and what you are doing. The number one piece of advice is to carry a small, 233 straightforward medical kit, even during short day trips. In developing countries, be sure to check the expiry date on medicines. Vaccinations Before travelling, make sure you have the necessary vaccinations. Most large hospitals in Japan administer standard Hepatitis A and B, Cholera and Tetanus shots. However for Polio, Yellow Fever, Typhoid and Diphtheria, you may have to travel to one of the two clinics listed below (Table 5.1). Check with your local doctor first.
Yellow fever inoculation certificates (valid 10 years) are required by certain African and South American countries and are checked at the airport on arrival. Vaccinations for Hepatitis A, a liver-debilitating disease commonly contracted by travellers in developing countries, are recommended for many areas of the world. It is not life threatening, but recovery will take months of rest and alcoholic abstinence. Hepatitis A can be warded off with gamma globulin/immune globulin shots.
These are recommended, but are only effective for relatively short time periods. If planning to be away for three months or more, there is a ten-year vaccine available. This has to be given in a series of injections over a six-month period, so plan in advance. Polio and typhoid inoculations are also sensible precautions. The cholera vaccination is largely ineffective and is only recommended if you are visiting a country at the time of an epidemic. Also, check that your tetanus inoculation is up to date, as you need boosters every ten years.
It is a good idea to include a disposable syringe in your medical kit in case you are faced with the need to get a gamma globulin booster or hospital treatment. One JET recounts in horror travelling to Singapore and being given an inoculation by an attendant without gloves using an unclean needle.
Lastly, remember to plan ahead! Some immunizations cannot be given at the same time (e.g. Hepatitis A inoculations cannot be received within six weeks of any Polio or Yellow Fever vaccination). Others take time to become effective.
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Delhi belly, Montezuma’s revenge Whatever it is called, it is bound to happen at some time or another! There is no need to rush to the pharmacy and take antibiotics. Instead, avoid eating until it completely passes through your system (usually around 36 hours), drink lots of liquids to prevent dehydration and get plenty of rest. Make sure you have some anti-diarrhoea tablets as these normally relieve symptoms quickly and effectively.
If the problem persists or gets bloody, then seek medical advice, quickly. The best way to avoid problems is to take care with food and water. Peel fruit, beware of salads, ice and ice cream and ensure that meat is thoroughly cooked. If you buy mineral water, check that bottles are sealed; you may be buying tap water. Also remember to check food packages for best by dates. Food more than one year old has been found on some South East Asian supermarket shelves! You have been warned!
Do not drink tap water unless you know it is safe. Boil or filter water as necessary. Carry a container that will hold boiling water. If you want to purify, a recommended method is one or two drops of water-based iodine solution (not medical tincture) per litre. Remember, though, that it is unhealthy to drink iodised water continuously for two or three months. One of the problems with purifying water is that your stomach does not get used to the bugs. Worse still, many water-purifying agents actually kill “good bugs” in your stomach, making you more vulnerable to getting sick. So if you purify once, you must continue to do so.
Perhaps if you are going to be in a rural area for an extended amount of time, it may be better to suffer a bit until your body gets used to the conditions. Also note that in many parts of Asia, like China and Vietnam, boiled or boiling water/tea is provided by even the cheapest of guesthouses, so there is little reason to worry. Problems arise more when trekking, especially in India, Bangladesh, and Pakistan. A classic technique is to carry gifts of lemon grass, cinnamon sticks, and herb teas. Instruct your host that the tea needs to be boiled for five to ten minutes, and most nasty parasites will die.
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Malaria Malaria is a problem throughout the tropics. The most effective prevention is to take good precautions against insect bites. Use repellent that contains DEET (diethyltoluamide) with a concentration of 32-35% (higher might irritate your skin, lower is not effective).
Malaria is somewhat seasonal and worse at the end of wet seasons. The mosquitoes that transmit the disease do not survive well at high altitudes and do not like bursts of low temperature. Also, they only bite between dusk and dawn, which is why using mosquito coils at night and a net wherever possible, is so important. So remember to maintain a good supply of effective repellent, dress in bright colours (honest), keep your arms and legs covered after sunset and sleep in properly screened rooms.
Anti-malarial drugs do not prevent the disease, but they do suppress its symptoms. Consider taking the pills if going for a short trip to a high-risk area. There are two main malarial prophylactics on the market: mefloquin and chloroquine. Southeast Asia malarial strains are resistant to chloroquine, so mefloquin is the only alternative. This drug is only available at one pharmacy in Tokyo, (Akadama Yakkyyoku, Tel: (03) 3492-5706). They will mail medicine to your home. Alternatively, your local doctor can order it in a week or so. The pills cost 1200 Yen each, which is actually a competitive price. Insurance will not cover the cost. If you decide to take malaria pills, do not forget that you must start taking them a week before entering the malarial area, and continue for four weeks afterwards. Mefloquin is also readily available in Singapore, Hong Kong, Bangkok, and Kuala Lumpur.
Remember that malaria is a very serious and potentially fatal disease. Symptoms of malaria include headaches, fever, chills and sweating. Embassies and consulates can usually recommend English-speaking doctors.
Also, five star hotels can recommend someone, though, as the Lonely Planet notes, they will probably recommend doctors with five star prices. For more information call the CDC Malaria Hotline. Tel: (404) 332-4555 (USA), or the International Clinic in Tokyo at: (03) 3582-2646.
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Other precautions Something as simple as sunburn can ruin a vacation. Make sure to bring sunscreen (UV) lotion when travelling in hot regions such as the tropics of Southeast Asia. Sunglasses and a hat are also a must. Due to the extreme heat, you are a target for heat exhaustion. When sweating profusely, you lose a lot of salt that can cause fatigue and muscle cramps. An easy measure is to increase your salt intake and drink as much water as possible.
Humidity and heat can also cause skin problems such as jock itch, athlete’s foot, dermatitis (caused by jewellery and watches rubbing your skin), and prickly heat (caused by excessive sweating). Make sure to bathe often and thoroughly dry yourself before dressing. Bring anti-fungal ointments and powder such as Desenex, Tinactin and Mycota. Wear light cotton clothing and underwear and opt for open sandals.
Further information For a more comprehensive and medically cautious view, the following information resources are recommended: The US Centre for Disease Control and Prevention http://www.cdc.gov carries general travel health information and news about specific disease outbreaks. They also publish Health Information for Travellers. To purchase, call (202) 512-1800, US$20. 1600 Clifton Rd. NE, Atlanta GA 30333, USA, Fax: (888) 232-3299. The International Association for Medical Assistance to Travellers, 417 Centre St., Lewiston, New York, NY 14092, USA. Tel: (716) 754-4883. http://www.sentex.net/~iamat or e-mail at [email protected] Membership includes a directory of English speaking doctors in developing countries, brochures on immunization requirements, tropical diseases, climate and sanitation. Membership is free, but donations are appreciated. The Travellers’ Medical Service of Washington, Handles health matters for the Peace Corps and issues a ten-page handout that is used by US university student travel advisors. Write to 2141 K Street NW, Suite 408, Washington, DC 20037, USA. MASTA Has a free excellent advisory service including latest information on 237 vaccinations, safety and political stability of all countries. http://www.masta.org Tel: (0891) 224 100.
Tips for Women Travellers Solo—a woman travelling alone Johanna Raines was an ALT in Yamaguchi ken. I was sitting in a small café, sharing coffee and conversation with a dear friend, who was ardently talking about her upcoming journey. It would be her first time to travel alone, and she wanted to know if there was anything in particular she should be aware of. My first impulse was to say that basic common sense should do the trick. And then, my head began to spin with various shady situations that could very well have been avoided had I chatted with other women who had experienced travelling solo prior to my first solo exodus. For starters, I might not have left that cantina in Southern Mexico at the midnight hour, without an escort, for my simple ten-minute walk home. Packs of angry young men (common knowledge amongst the locals) spend their time skulking safe looking streets during those moon lit hours, look for people to plunder. Had I known that lone women were prime targets for such bandits, I might have found an escort or taken a taxi. I would have avoided the terror of being chased for some five blocks down the deserted streets and getting lost in the creepy process. The gods must have been on my side that night, for a car finally did make an appearance, and I was able to hail the driver by standing in the middle of the road. I climbed inside, and told him, in my broken Spanish, to drive on (while clutching onto the handle of the door, in case I needed a quick escape). Meanwhile, my assailant just stood there on the curb with his arms crossed, looking furious, and watched us drive away. My luck continued, in that the stranger in the car did not attack me. I vowed to myself that I would never again scoff at the prospect of taking a five- minute taxi ride.
If you are a goddess with a touch of wanderlust, I urge you to go forth. The experience of travelling solo is simply one that cannot be surpassed. However, before you venture, do give some consideration as to how you will be perceived by others on the path. Basically, this starts in owning to the fact (as silly as it may be) that the majority of 238 people in foreign lands are quick to react to us as just that: a foreign woman alone, in a foreign land. This oftentimes is tantamount to being a sparkly, shiny, object spotted by a crow in flight. With an insatiable interest in all things shiny, crows are highly disposed to going in for a swoop.
Basically, as long as you are actively aware of some of the responsible etiquette that goes along with being such a sparkly entity, you will not only avoid the clutches of the crow, but will also acquire many more reasons to shine. And so, with that said, I offer the following suggestions that I hope will help secure a ‘mangle-free’ journey. Try to arrive at new destinations during daylight hours and with a clear head, because already, you will be vulnerable from being disorientated, carrying a heavy bag and not being able to speak the language. If you must arrive at night, make a reservation at a hotel or hostel and splurge on a taxi to get you there. You can always find a cheaper place in the morning when you learn the layout of the area.
To start, avoid venturing out alone in the evening hours! No matter how peaceful or pretty a place seems to be, never assume safety. The world is littered with idyllic towns run by people who go to great lengths at keeping crime reports out of the media, especially when foreigners are involved. If you do have an overwhelming desire to wander, walk like you know your way around.
As soon as possible, learn how to say things like: “go away”, “help me”, and “no thanks.” Do not be shy about appealing to strangers for assistance if you are feeling uncomfortable. Some of my best friends are couples I met after asking if I could join them to avoid the clutches of some potential maniac who was lingering a little too long.
Make an effort to learn as much about the societies you plan to visit beforehand! I cannot stress the importance of this, for this is how you will develop ideas on how the women of whatever country you will be visiting are treated by their kin. Without question, the natives will invariably have differing reactions and expectations to the travelling foreigner, but alas, certain fixed attitudes will prevail, and it helps to know what types of mentalities you will be confronting. Anthropologists have been quite prolific in their vivid accounts of societies, including the manners in which women are esteemed and treated. There is a wealth of literature accessible on every single culture of the world. Take advantage of it! A few hours spent in the 239 library prior to your journey will engender you a powerful sense of what types of behaviour might be expected of you.
The issue of apparel is of supreme importance. Something as trivial as wearing a pair of shorts in certain communities could result in you being ostracized by women who might otherwise have made an effort to be your friend. You could also be the recipient of an entourage of “cat calls” and other annoying (some downright frightening) unwanted attention, all from showing a little skin. Viewpoints and attitudes of disparate societies on issues such as dress, gender, and the body, are governed by such a myriad of influences, from religion to the media.
Oftentimes, we might not be quick to understand or agree with some of these beliefs or opinions, but I suppose the honour lies in our attempt to do our best at respecting them as differences. If you want to fight archaic, misogynist attitudes, laws and beliefs, do it from your home country with the power of an organisation behind you. Do not endanger yourself abroad just because you, as a Westerner, have the right to dress as you please. Watch the women. Pay attention to how they dress, and do your best to emulate them. I recommend that you pack a few “conservative” items of clothing. Remember, many places such as churches, temples and museums, require women to cover their shoulders and/or legs before entering. Keep a low profile! Be careful to not advertise your alone status. If you happen to be on a date, or even just chatting with someone, it is always a good idea to casually make it known that you are “with other people” and are “expected back.” Exercise caution when giving out information such as where you are staying, or where you are going. The adage holds, “we are better safe than sorry.”
Some handy items your bag of tricks might include: a whistle (in case you need to call for help), a vial of mace or chilli spray, condoms (in case), a wedding ring (real or fake), photos of your “husband” and “children”, literature (even if you do not feel like reading. This is a great “I’m busy” signal at a coffee shop), lastly, (but far from being the least): an alias. It is always a good idea to have several different names and origins for your self at easy recall. You never know when you might not want to be known!
A woman travelling solo will also be the recipient of a plethora of wonderful things such as countless acts of generosity from strangers 240 who assume that she is lonely. Enjoy these when they come, and be careful to not indulge feelings of ‘obligation’ to anyone. Appreciation is always sufficient reciprocation! And remember, your travels are your very own magical story in the making, and may pave, or close the road for other adventurous vixens. Choose your words and chapters carefully. Now get busy! The world is waiting. Further information http://www.journeywoman.com http://www.lonelyplanet.com (Look under Thorntree) http://www.backpackeurope.com/womentravelers.html http://www.tips4trips.com A Journey of One’s Own: Uncommon Advice for the Independent Woman Traveller. Thalia Zepatos. The Bad Girl’s Guide to the Open Road. Cameron Tuttle. It is funny and even has a basic car repair guide. Traveller’s Tales: A Woman’s World. Mary-beth Bond & Larry Habegger.
Volunteer Programs
Mongolia: land of the blue sky Lisa Poston, a third year ALT in Saitama-ken, is treasurer for the Habitat for Humanity SIG. Since coming to Japan she has worked on Habitat projects in a number of countries, the most recent of which was in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. Here she discusses the work of Habitat and talks about her time in Mongolia. What is Habitat for Humanity? Habitat for Humanity International (HFHI) is a non-profit, Christian housing ministry, which seeks to eliminate poverty housing and homelessness and to make decent shelter a matter of conscience and action. Habitat has built more than 100,000 houses around the world, providing more than 500,000 people in 79 countries with safe, decent, affordable shelter.
Through volunteer labour and donations of money and materials, Habitat builds and rehabilitates simple, decent houses with the help of the homeowner (partner) families. Habitat houses are sold to partner families at no profit, financed with affordable, no-interest 241 loans. The homeowners' monthly mortgage payments are used to build still more Habitat houses. Habitat invites people of all backgrounds, races and religions to build houses together in partnership with families in need.
In recent years JETs have become involved in Global Village projects, travelling to countries in Asia and the Pacific as volunteers. During 2000 and 2001, 30 JET teams travelled to the Philippines, Fiji, Papua New Guinea, and Nepal, among other countries. The teams fundraised money, collected school and clothing supplies, and taught their Japanese students about Habitat work on return to Japan. If you would to learn more about the Habitat SIG, please contact the National Coordinator at [email protected]. For general information about Habitat for Humanity International, visit http://www.habitat.org What attracted you to being a HFHI Global Village team member in Mongolia? As soon as I learned that a team was scheduled for a project in Mongolia, I knew I had to be a part of it. Having lived in Japan for more than two years and been immersed in Asian culture, Mongolia seemed like it would be a fascinating travel destination. Having no summer plans, I thought a trip to Mongolia would not only be another opportunity for me to participate in a HFHI GV project, but also a great chance to experience life in a country that is virtually unknown to the western world. What did you gain during your experience? In addition to sharing new experiences with the Habitat team, I also gained a great deal of knowledge about Mongolian life from communicating with the affiliate staff members, homeowners, and on-site workers themselves. They shared stories about their lives and told us of the daily struggles they have to endure. Although it is never easy to share the stories of one's hardships, I truly felt these people appreciated my attention and interest in their lives. How does Global Village allow volunteers to contribute? The difference between participating in a Habitat project and a GV (short-term mission) project is that, with the latter, volunteers have the opportunity to contribute the funds they have raised for a particular affiliate and then, travel to that affiliate in another country and experience a way of life that is different from their own. At the 242 end of these short-term missions volunteers usually have the chance to spend a few extra days of rest & relaxation in the country before returning home. Can you explain a typical day on the work site? A typical day went something like this: team members woke up at around 7am and then made their way to the common kitchen area in the adjoining hotel room for a light breakfast consisting of cereal, toast, muffins, fruit, juice, coffee and tea. After filling our water bottles from the purified water tank, we made our way to the work site at around 8:30am. We had a snack break at 11, lunch at 1, and another snack at 3. Several ladies with homes already in the Habitat community prepared our daily snacks and lunches on the site.
We normally worked until 5pm. The on-site Mongolian workers were used to a working day that started at around 10.30am and finished between 9 and 10pm. For our project, they adjusted their schedule to coincide with ours. On the land designated for the Habitat community, there were already five houses built from the previous year. The team worked on four houses during this project. The foundations for two of the houses were already completed when we arrived. The houses were built with wood and concrete. To make the concrete, we retrieved buckets of water from a nearby river. The other materials were purchased from hardware and lumber stores around the city.
The Host Coordinator would announce job duties. Either the team members themselves would volunteer or our Team Leader would delegate job duties for the day. There were plenty of duties for everyone including, but not limited to: sawing wood, hammering nails into boards, cutting and laying strips of insulation, mixing cement, fetching water from the river, picking and shovelling dirt, moving debris from the site, or just being another worker's helper by passing around tools and other items when needed. When team members were tired of their particular job task, they were free to switch with other members throughout the day.
After returning to our old Russian apartment complex made into a hotel, the team members got showered and changed for dinner. Basically, the time after the workday was our own. The Team Leader would give us taxi and dinner money and then we were able to go anywhere in the city on our own. Usually, the team would break up 243 into smaller groups. On occasion, though, we would get together for dinner at a nice restaurant. Did you learn about the need for decent housing in Mongolia? How? While in Mongolia, I had many opportunities to witness the despair of Mongolians living in Ulaanbaatar, Erdenet, and in the countryside of northern Mongolia.
At the beginning of my trip, another team member gave me an article to read about Mongolians who had to live in manholes under the city streets. I found this hard to imagine until one day when I saw some children coming and going out of a manhole with food for their families. Throughout my trip, I would stumble upon many uncovered manholes with traces of people living within them. That site always brought tears to my eyes.
Mongolia was controlled by the Russians for many years but was abandoned only a decade ago. Its economy was left in ruins. With no financial infrastructure, Mongolian banks are not set up to offer loans to prospective homeowners. Thus, Mongols (even the middle class) are left either having to pay for a home in full, rent from the numerous old and run down Russian apartment buildings, or be forced to live in any number of ger (traditional felt tent) districts. Whether they are living in a home, apartment, or ger, most Mongols live with their families comprising up to ten members or more. During the cold winter months, the temperature will easily drop to -40 degrees F. This makes living conditions unbearable for those without heating, with children and the elderly population particularly at risk.
In addition to walking through several ger districts, I also had the opportunity to visit an orphanage located in Ulaanbaatar. Most of the children there were from the streets or had parents who were in prison. Others were left at the orphanage because their families were unable to feed another child. Although most of the children were half their normal body size due to malnutrition and other medical problems, the facility itself did look surprisingly clean and appeared well organized. What was the best part of the project for you? All aspects of the project were rewarding for me, whether I was interacting with the team members, affiliate staff members, 244 homeowners, on-site workers, children at the orphanage or people in the community. I also enjoyed getting the chance to travel in Mongolia and to witness a part of the Mongolian lifestyle that has remained the same for hundreds, if not thousands of years. Having the opportunity to stay in a ger camp for several days and experience a part of nomadic life was incredible. Waking up to the sight of wild horses galloping through the steppes, watching the herds of yaks, sheep, goats and cows grazing on the mountainsides, seeing nomadic women milking cows, hand washing their laundry, and making traditional steam buns in their large cooking pots was a very enriching experience. Any other thoughts or suggestions First of all, if you are transiting through Beijing, China on the way to/from Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia by plane, you will still need to obtain a Chinese transit visa. If not, you can be detained by the immigration officials and be issued a fine. This happened to three of our team members. A fourth member was able to purchase a transit visa at the airport in Beijing.
My suggestion to everyone is to transit on the way to/from Seoul, Korea. Remember that there are only two flights a week from Seoul to Ulaanbaatar, so you may have to stay one night in Seoul for an early departure the following morning.
Second, effective from July 18, 2001, American citizens do not need a visa to enter Mongolia. Please contact the Mongolian Embassy for details on extensions and requirements for other citizens.
Finally, if you have any questions regarding my HFHI GV project to Mongolia, please contact me at [email protected]. Travel with a purpose Angie Peltzer is an ALT in Nagano-ken. She set up a new volunteer organization, Go Make a Difference, in May 2000. During your time on the JET Programme you have probably had plenty of time to travel around Asia, relax on beautiful beaches, explore ancient ruins, and eat local delicacies. But how well did you get to know the local people and experience the real culture of the region? Did you feel like you were just an observer and never had
245 the opportunity to give something back to the countries in which you ventured?
When I came to Japan as a participant in the JET Programme, I knew that teaching was not going to be a life-long career for me. I came to Japan to not only experience the culture of this beautiful country, but to explore the surrounding region. As someone who was interested in a future career in International Development, I knew that my future travels would give me a better glimpse into life in the developing world.
I eagerly anticipated and planned my first trip to Thailand where I had successfully found two children's homes that were in need of help. I was to spend a week at each home providing whatever services I could. Five visits and a year and a half later I could never have predicted the impact these children would have on my life. It is because of these children that I started a web-based international volunteer organization called Go M.A.D. (Go Make A Difference) http://www.go-mad.org.
I started Go M.A.D. with the hope of aiding small social service projects (especially the children's homes I had just visited) that are in need of volunteers and funding, but are unable to communicate their needs. At the same time, I wanted to work with people who would like to volunteer abroad, especially in South East Asia, but was unsure of where they could go and how they could help. I was aware that many volunteer organizations required large fees from participants. But what percentage of such fees went towards administration costs and what went to the actual projects was unknown to me. I designed Go M.A.D. so that projects receive all of the donations, and none is lost to administration; Go M.A.D. donates its time for this purpose.
In a year and half, Go M.A.D. has grown considerably and is now proud to work with over 25 projects in: Thailand, Gambia, Cambodia, Democratic Republic of Congo, Philippines, Indonesia, Laos, China, Nepal, India, Venezuela, Ecuador, Ghana, Kenya, Kyrgystan, and South Africa. Volunteer stays can range from 3 days to one year, depending on the project. Some projects require a donation to the project that is essential for their survival, while others do not.
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Volunteer duties range from teaching English, to medical services, to carpentry, to farming.
If you are interested in learning more about Go M.A.D., please visit our website http://www.go-mad.org. If you are interested in volunteering, you can apply to any of our networked projects via the website and begin your adventure. Please keep in mind that while Go M.A.D. continues to expand, it is me that primarily runs it, and in my spare time. Please be patient with our services, as we try to do our best! While our address will change once I leave Japan, we will do our best not to only maintain Go M.A.D., but also to turn it into something better so that it can help even more people.
A Christmas in Vietnam Keri Damen, Nagasaki-ken Last Christmas, instead of the usual time spent with my family drinking eggnog and stuffing myself with food, Christmas morning I found myself under a scorching sun in Vietnam playing with 60 orphans in a Catholic-nun run orphanage. 35 JETs from Japan who participated in the 8th Annual Children’s Education Project were there to hand out donations of used clothing and toys, school supplies, candy, and Christmas Cards from Japanese students. Many JETs on the project had worked to raise funds for the donations they took over. Many had also worked to raise awareness of the problems in Vietnam’s schools, but in truth, after playing games with the children, and holding so many lovely babies in our arms, it was us who received the true gifts in Vietnam that Christmas. The formal project runs tentatively from December 20th to January 1st every year, (there is a $750 U.S. fee to cover meals accommodation and in-country transportation.). Starting in 2002, there is also a Charity and Education Project scheduled for Vietnam and Cambodia from August 12th to August-25th.
When people say that one person cannot change the world, they have not met Gia Hoa Ryan yet. A Vietnamese-American who lived through the terrors of the American war in Vietnam and had her own brother sent to a re-education camp for fighting on the ‘wrong’ side of the war, Gia Hoa moved to the U.S. but never forgot Vietnam. Years later she created and became the Executive Director of the Friendship Foundation of American-Vietnamese whose goal is “to build bridges of 247 friendship” between other countries and Vietnam. Along with the Vice-Director Joseph Meissner, a Harvard-educated lawyer who is a veteran of the war, Gia Hoa makes a difference in the lives of many Vietnamese through many projects in both the US and Vietnam. In fact, in 2001, their 8th Annual Children’s and Education Project alone touched an estimated 6000 lives.
With diverse goals aimed at helping the many groups of people who need it, the Project participants and organisers visit many places: orphanages, hospitals, rural villages (where they host health fairs with volunteer Vietnamese doctors), a school to distribute scholarships, and homes and hospitals for the elderly, war-wounded and disabled. The Project also visits a Leprosy village and the Montagnard Hill Tribe people. School supplies, food, medicine, clothes and toys from both Japan and America are distributed throughout the project.
The Project gives participants a firsthand experience with the realities of life in Vietnam and a chance to meet many Vietnamese people through volunteer work. However, the Project also allots time to visit cultural and historical sites in southern Vietnam including the Presidential Palace in Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon), the Saigon Water Puppet Theatre, the Military Museum, and a visit to the fascinating Cu Chi Tunnels and War Memorial.
After the Project, many participants opt to continue travelling in Vietnam or nearby Cambodia and in the past the organisers have helped participants with advice or with making arrangements for further travel. Friendship Foundation of American-Vietnamese Hoi Ban Huu Hoa Ky –Viet Nam 2206 West 85th Street, Cleveland, Ohio, USA 44102 Tel: (216) 651-6748 E-mail: [email protected]
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Volunteer organisations
Abbreviations Time of Contract (TC): Short (S) Mid (M) Long (L) Religion (R) Protestant (P) Lutheran (Lu) Mennonite (M) Jewish (J) Baptist (B) Quaker (Q) Catholic (CA) Christian(C) Location (L0) Worldwide (W) S. America (SA) N. America (NA) Lat. America (LA) Europe (E) Africa (AF) Asia (A) Australia (AU) Oceania (O) Nature of Service (NS) Agriculture (Ag) Cultural (Cul) Restoration (Res) Archaeology (Ar) Disabled (Dis) Sanitation (San) Business (Bu) Education Ed) Social (Soc) Children (Ch) Elderly (Eld) Technical (Tec) Construction (Con) Environment (En) Women (Wn) Conservation (Csv) Health Care (H)
Association of Episcopal Colleges 815 Second Avenue, NY, NY 10017-4594 USA Tel: (212) 986-0989 Fax: (212) 986-5039 Web Site: http://www.cuac.org TC: S-M-L; LO: NA, LA, E, A; R: C; NS: Ch, Ed, Dis, H Australian Trust for Conservation Volunteers PO Box 423, Ballarat Victoria 3353 Australia Tel: (3) 5333-1483, Fax: (3) 5333-2290 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.atcv.com.au TC: S; LO: AU; NS: En Bharat Sevak Samaj-Nehru Seva Kendra Gugoan Bye Pass Rd, Mehrauli, New Delhi 30, India, Tel: (91) 11-485-2215. TC: S; LO: A (India); NS: Con, San, Res 249
British Executive Service Overseas (BESO) 164 Vauxhall Bridge Rd., London, SWIV 2RB UK. Tel: (0207) 630-0644. TC: M-L; LO: W; NS: Bu Canadian Federation of Student Volunteer Abroad Programs 5F 243 College St, Toronto, ON M5T 2YI, Tel: (416) 977-3703 Fax: (416) 977-4796. TC: S; LO: NA (Canada) Catholic Network of Volunteer Service 4121 Harewood Rd. NE, Washington, DC 20017, USA Tel: (202) 529-1100 Fax: (202) 526-1094 E-mail: [email protected] Web: http://www.cnvs.org TC: M-L; LO: W; R: CA. Accepts members of different faiths. Christian Foundation for Children and Aging One Elmwood Ave. Kansas City, MS 66103-3798 Tel: (913) 384-6500. TC: M-L; LO: W (Philippines/India); R: C; NS: Ch, Con, Ed, H Concern America PO Box 1790, Santa Ana, CA 92702,USA Tel: (714) 953-8575. E-mail:[email protected] Web: http://www.concernamerica.org TC: M-L; LO: W; NS: Ag, Ed, H, San Council on International Educational Exchange International Voluntary Service Dept, 205 East 42nd St., New York, NY 10017-5706, USA Tel: (212) 822-2695 Fax: (212) 822-2689 Web Site: http://www.ciee.org TC: S; LO: W; NS: Ch, Con, Cul, Eld, En, Res, Soc Global Mission Volunteers of ELCA 8765 West Higgins Rd. Chicago, IL 60631-4192, USA
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Tel: (773) 380-2414 Fax: (773) 380-2410 E-mail:(Deb Myers):[email protected] Web: http://www.elca.org/dgm/mispos.html TC: S-M-L; R: Lu, P; LO: W; NS: Ed, H EIL Cultural and Educational Travel 287 Worcester Road, Malvern, Worcs.WR14 1AB, UK Tel: (1684) 56-2577 Fax: (1684) 56-2212 E-mail: [email protected] Web: http://www.eiluk.org LO: W; NS; Cul EARTHWATCH Headquarters 3 Clock Tower Place, Suite 100 Box 75, Maynard, MA 301754, USA. Tel: (978) 461-8182 Fax: (978) 461-2332 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: http://www.earthwatch.org
Food for the Hungry 7729 East Greenway Rd. Scottsdale, AZ 85260 USA Tel: (602) 998-3100 Fax: (602) 998 9448 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: http://www.fh.org TC: M-L; LO: W; NS: Con, Ed, En, H
Gender Tourism and Travel - Yerebatan Caddesi 1513, 34410 Sultanahment, Istanbul, Turkey Tel: (212) 520-52-74 Fax: (212) 519-08-64 E-mail: [email protected] TC: S; LO: A (Turkey); NS: Con Never Ending International Work Camps Exchange (NICE) 2-4-2-701 Shinjuku Shinkjuku - ku, Tokyo, 160-0022 Tel: (03) 3358-7140 Fax: (03) 3358-7149 E-mail: [email protected] 250
Web Site: http://www.jah.ne.jp/^nice-do TC: S; LO: A (Turkey); NS: Ag, Con, Csv, Cul, En, Res Global Volunteers 375 East Little Canada Rd.Saint Paul, MN 55117 USA Tel: (651) 482-0295 Fax: (651) 482 0915 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: http://www.globalvolunteers.org TC: S; LO: W (Indonesia, Vietnam, China) NS: Bu, Con, Ed, H Insight Nepal PO Box 489, Zero K.M., Pokhara, Kaski, Nepal Tel: (977 61) 30266 Email: [email protected] TC: M-L; LO: A (Nepal); NS: Ed International Study and Service Exchange Vakil House, 11 Floor, Sprott Rd. Ballard Pier, Bombay 400 038, India Tel: (91-22) 2614359. TC: S (Workcamp) ML; LO: A (India); NS: Csv, En, H International Voluntary Service 122 Great Victoria St., Belfast, BT2 7BG Northern Ireland, UK Tel: (01232) 238147 Fax: (01232) 244356 E-mail: [email protected] TC: S; LO: W; NS: Soc, Con, Csv, En Interns for Peace Rehove Geula 35, Tel Aviv, 63304 Israel Tel: (972-3) 517-6525 Fax: (972-3)517-7995. TC: L; LO: A (Israel); NS: Bu, Ch, Ed, H, Soc Interserve 325 Kenningtion Rd., London, SE11 4QH, UK Tel: (0207) 735-8227 Fax: (0207) 587-5362.
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TC: M-L; LO: A (Pakistan, India, Nepal); R: C; NS: Bu, Ed, H International Partnership for Service Learning 815 Second Ave., Suite 315 NY, NY 10017 USA Tel: (212) 986-0989 Fax: (212) 986-5039 E-mail: [email protected] Web: http:// www.studyabroad.com TC: M-L; LO: W (12 including; India, Israel, Philippines); NS: Cul, Sol Involvement Volunteers Association Inc. PO Box 218 Port Melbourne, VIC 3207, Australia Tel: (61-3) 9646-9392 Fax: (61-3) 9646-5504 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: http://www.volunteering.org.au TC: S-M-L; LO: W; NS: Ch, Con, Dis, Ed, Eld, En, Soc Israel Antiques Authority c/o Israel Foreign Ministry Website: www.Israel-mfa.gov.il/archdigs.html Japan Overseas Cooperation Volunteers (JOVC) Hiroo 4-2-24, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150 Tel: (03) 3400-7261 TC: S-M; LO: W Joint Assistance Centre, Inc. PO Box 6082, San Pablo, CA 94806-0082 USA, (501) 464-1100, Web Site: http://hometown.aol.com/jacusa/index.htm TC: M-L; LO: A (India & Nepal); NS: Ag, Ed, En, Wn, H Kibbutz Aliya Desk 4F 110 East 59th St., NY, NY 10022 USA Tel: (212) 318-6130 Fax: (212) 318-6134. TC: M-L; LO: A (Israel); R: J; NS: Ar, Ag, Soc Kibbutz Program Centre Volunteer Department Takam, Artzi 18 Frishman St./cr. Ben Yehuda
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Tel-Aviv, 61030 Israel Tel: (972) 3-527-8874 Fax: (972) 3-523-9966 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: http://www.kibbutz.org.il TC: S-M; LO: A (Israel); R: J; NS: Ar, Ag, Soc
The Lisle Fellowship 433 West Sterns Rd. Temperance, MI 48182-9568, USA Tel: (313) 847-7126 Fax: (419) 530-7719 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: http://www.lisle.utoledo.edu TC: S; LO: A, Af, NA; NS: Cul Little Children of the World 361 County Rd. 475, Etowah, TN 37331, USA Tel/Fax: (423) 263-2303 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: http://lcw.ourfamily.com TC: S-M-L; LO: A (Philippines); R: C; NS: Ed, Ag, H Mahobohdi International Meditation Centre P.O. Box 22, Devachan Leh-Ladakh, 194101, India Tel: (91-80) 225-0684 Fax: (91-80) 226-4438. NS: Ed Mennonite Central Committee 21 S. 12th St., PO Box 500 Akron, PA 17501-0500, USA Tel: (717) 859-1151 Fax: (717) 859-2171 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: http://www.mennonitecc.ca/mcc TC: L; LO: W; R: C; NS: Ag, Ed, H, Soc Moshav Volunteers Centre 28 Bailik St., PO Box 4938 Tel Aviv, 61048, Israel Tel: (972) 03-650-919.
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LO: A (Israel); NS: Cul, Soc Mother Teresa’s Missionaries of Charity 54a Acharya, Jagadish, Chandra Bose Road Calcutta 700-016, India Tel: (091) 033-245-2277 Service Civil International International Voluntary Service, 814 NE 40th St., Seattle, WA, 98105, Tel/Fax: (206) 54-56-585 E-mail: [email protected] TC: S-M; LO: E, A, AF, NA; NS: Ch, Con, San, En View Foundation 13 Hazelton Ave., Toronto, ON, M5R 2E1, Canada Tel: (800) 387-1387 TC: S; LO: W (Nepal); NS: Bu, En, Ed, Soc Volunteers for Israel 330 W. 42nd St., NY, NY 10036 USA Tel: (212) 643-4848 Fax: (212) 643-4855. TC: S; LO: A (Israel) R: J (but all faiths welcome); NS: Ag, Ar, En, H Volunteers for Peace 1043 Tiffany Rd., Belmont, VT 05730, USA Tel: (802) 259-2759, Fax: (802) 259-2922 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: http://www.vfp.org TC: S; LO: W; NS: Ag, Ar, Csv, En, Soc, Res Wildlands Studies 3 Mosswood Circle, Cazadero, CA 95421, USA Tel/Fax: (707) 632-5665 E-mail:[email protected] Web Site: http://www.wildlandsstudies.com/ws TC: S; LO: NA, A (Thailand, Nepal), O (New Zealand), E; NS: En
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Youth Charitable Organization 20-14 Urban Bank St. Yellamanchili - 531 055, Visakhapatnam District Andhra Pradesh, India Tel: (0091) 8931-31122 Fax: (0091) 8931-31231 E-mail: [email protected] TC: S-M-L: LO: A (India); NS: Ag, Ch, Con, Csv, En Publications Adventure Vacations Stephanie Ocko, 1995. Citadel Press, Carol Publishing Group, 600 Madison Av, NY, NY 10022, USA, Tel: (800) 866 1966. Web Site: http://www.citadelpublishing.com US$14.95 + postage. Environmental Vacations: Volunteer Projects to Save the Planet Stephanie Ocko, 1992. John Muir Publications, PO Box 613, Santa Fe, NM 87504, USA, Tel: (800) 888-7504 US$16.96. Alternatives to the Peace Corps: A Directory of Third World and U.S. Volunteer Opportunities, 8th ed., 1998, Food First Books, 398 60th St., Oakland, CA 94618, USA, Tel: (510) 654- 4400. US$9.95 + postage. The Center for International Educational Exchange & International Work Camp Directory Updated annually. CIEE’s work camp placements. US$12.00 + postage. Directory of Volunteer Opportunities Kerry L. Mahoney, 1992. Volunteer Directory, Career Resource Center, University of Waterloo, Waterloo, ON, CN N2L 3G1. CN $10.70. Fax: (519) 746-1309. E-mail: [email protected] Going Places: A Catalog of Domestic and International Internship, Volunteer, Travel and Career Opportunities in the Fields of Hunger, Housing, Homelessness, and Grassroots Development 255
Joanne Woods, 1991. National Student Campaign Against Hunger and Homelessness, 29 Temple Place, Boston MA 02111-9907, USA, Tel: (617) 292-4823. US$6.25 + postage. The International Directory of Voluntary Work David Woodworth, 1993. Petersons Guides, Inc., 202 Carnegie Center, Princeton, NJ 08543-2123 USA, Tel: (609) 243-9150, International Volunteer Program Guide, Service Civil International Updated annually. Route 2, Box 506, Crozet, VA 22932 USA, Tel: (804) 823-1826 Fax: (804) 823-5027, E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: http://wworks.com/sciivs. US$5.00 + postage. International Workcamp Directory, (VFP) Updated annually. International Workcamps, 1034 Tiffany Rd., Belmont, VT 05730, USA, Tel: (802) 259-2759 Fax: (802) 259 2922. E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: www.vfp.org Describes 1500 placements available through VFP. US$15.00 + postage. Invest Yourself: The Catalogue of Volunteer Opportunities Susan Angus, 1996. Available from the Commission on Voluntary Service in Action (CVSA), PO Box 117, NY, NY 10009 USA, 1-800-356-9315 or direct: (718) 638-8487. Lists 200 non-government volunteer opportunities overseas and in the US. US$8 + postage ($5 overseas). Transitions Abroad Fact Sheet No. 36 - “Are you Ready to Volunteer?” Four pages of advice followed by details, dates, contact addresses, etc. of over 100 programs that you might consider. At the U.S. Consulate. Volunteer! The Comprehensive Guide to Voluntary Service in the U.S. and Abroad Richard Christiano, ed. 1995. Available from CIEE. Describes over 200
256 volunteer opportunities. US$8.95 + postage
International Exchange Programs
Friendship clubs
Besides organizations such as Lions and Rotary, which are community-based organizations with vast international networks, there are others that act like an international “Tatami Timeshare”. SERVAS Perhaps the foremost is SERVAS; meaning, “to serve” in that non-language, Esperanto. SERVAS is a “family of peace builders” run by volunteers to foster international understanding. There are over nine thousand host addresses in about a hundred countries. Open door hosts accept SERVAS travellers for two days/nights. Day hosts, while not offering accommodation, help with local information. You can join SERVAS whether or not you wish to host others. The application process takes some time, and generally involves an interview some three months after you apply. However, requests for speedy approval will be considered. No one can be approved as a traveller in SERVAS without an interview. The purpose of SERVAS is furthering international understanding, not getting free accommodation! Apparently a few JETs have applied in past years without appreciating this and have caused some bad feelings.
To join in Japan, contact your regional coordinator with an 80-yen stamp. If you are going to leave Japan soon, you may be better off to join in your home country (although Japanese membership can be 257 transferred). To find your home country branch, contact the general secretary, or one of the following addresses: SERVAS Japan National Secretary Kouzo Ikeyama 、1-4-10 Hiyoshi-dai Otsu-shi, Shiga-ken 520-0112 Tel/Fax: (077) 579-2253 Website: http://www/o.big.or.jp/servas SERVAS International Sec.General Mr Kevin Newham P.O. Box 1086, Airlie Beach, QSL 4802 Australia Tel: (61) 79-465605 Fax: (61) 79-465688 E-mail: [email protected] SERVAS Europe Coordinator: Margaret Klaser Kirchstrasse 11 D-55124 Mainz, Germany Tel/Fax: (49) 6131-466683 E-mail: [email protected] US SERVAS Inc 11 John St., Suite 407, New York, NY 10038-4009, USA Tel: (212) 267-0252 Fax: (212) 267-0292 E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: http://www.servas.org
Other friendship and travel clubs Ligue d’Amitie Internationale (French section of the International Friendship League - IFL), c/o Madame Charnier, Les Champs Fleuris, 14 Rue Maurice, Boyau, F. 91220 Bretigny-sur-orge, France ( 01-60-85-34-07) Pen-friend service, assistance to visitors to France, newsletter three times a year, International Congress held every year in Europe. Annual membership is 90FF, 160FF for couples, 40FF for under 16s. Globetrotters Club BCM/Roving, London, WCIN 3XX, UK members contact each other for information and hosting. Fee for a listing of members is £2 per continent.
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Universal Esperanto-Asocio Has worldwide member home-stays for Esperanto speakers 777 U.N. Plaza, Suite #1, NY NY 10017, USA (212-687-7041) Japan Esperanto Instituto, Waseda-machi, Shinjuku-ku 162 Tokyo Tel: (03) 3203-4581 Fax: (03) 3203-4582 E-mail: [email protected]. The World for Free c/o Seidboard World Enterprises, PO Box 137, Prince St. Station, NY, NY 10012, USA, Tel: (212) 674 7018, E-mail: [email protected] www.freeyellow.com/members2/seidboard/twfhome.html. 40 countries: $25. It’s an informal system. You get a members listing and can accept or reject people who come looking for hospitality. Advanced notification of hosts is required. Please write for an application before sending any money.
Home and hospitality exchanges
There are a great number of other programmes which arrange house/apartment holiday swaps, and allow for paid or reciprocal hosting, such as: Worldwide Home Exchange Club UK: 18-20 London Rd. Tunbridge Wells, Kent. TN1 1DA, UK Tel: (01892) 819300 Fax: (01892) 619311
USA: PO Box 21379 Washington, DC 20009-1379, USA Tel: (202) 588-5057. E-mail: [email protected] Web Site: http://www.wwhec.com Approx. 500 listings in 32 countries (1998). You pay £50 with a photograph. You receive a directory of registered homes that may be for rent, exchange, or hospitality exchange (home stays).
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Teacher Swap PO Box 454, Oakdale, NY 11769, USA Tel/Fax: (516) 244-2845, E-mail: [email protected]. A holiday home-swap idea specifically for active or retired teachers. You pay US$50 to be listed and receive three home catalogues from which to find a suitable swap. The Invented City, The International Home Exchange Association 41 Sutter St., Suite 1090 San Francisco, CA 94104, USA Tel: (415) 252-1141 Fax: (415) 252-1171.
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Paid home-stays If you do not want to join one of the above clubs, or simply do not want to plan things, you can do a paid home stay. This is particularly useful in countries like Russia, where pre-arranged home stays facilitate the offering of visas.
Many developed countries operate home-stay and/or “meet the people” (short home visit) programs. You can find details through national tourist offices, in the Alternative Travel Directory, or you can check addresses in the very useful listings book, Directory of Low Cost Vacations. J. Crawford. Pilot Books, US$5.95
• Home and Host International have home stay opportunities in many countries. The Citizen Exchange Council, (12 W 31st St., NY, NY 1000, USA) arranges exchange visits with Eastern Europe and Russia, but only for US citizens.
• The EIL has home stays in various countries. Remember to leave plenty of time to get the arrangements made. 287 Worcester Rd, Malvern, Worcs, WR14 1AB, UK. Tel: 01684 562577 Fax: 01684 562212 E-mail: [email protected]
• American Host PO Box 803 Garden Grove, CA 92842, USA Tel: (800) 525-9866 Fax: (714) 537-5798 E-mail: [email protected]. US home stays for Europeans, New Zealanders, and Australians.
• Meet the Aussies PO Box 442 Woolahara, Sydney NSW 2025, Australia. Three night home stays
• Meet the Canadians at Home (via provincial tourist offices) 261
• NSTS Student and Youth Travel 220 St. Paul St.,Valetta, Malta Tel: (356) 244983 Fax: (356) 230330 E-mail: [email protected] Home-stays in Malta
Travel Information by Region
This section covers travel in more than sixty countries. The travelogues, all of which were written by JETs, are intended to provide snapshots of great locations. Although the travelogues are subjective, I hope they are also interesting and informative. A big thank you goes out to all past and present JETs who have contributed to this section.
The Trans-Siberian Railway
By Damian Hayes
If your sense of the epic is to go overland on one of the longest routes there is, then this is for you. Doing the Trans-Siberian, “The Big Red Train Ride,” “Riding the Iron Rooster,” whatever you want to call it, is a fantastic, albeit at times, tortuous trial. It is a journey in itself to work out the best way of getting on the thing, and then it takes another mile or two to get through the convoluted literature.
Here is how I spent about US$ 2000 over a two-month period, travelling from Nagano – Osaka – Shanghai – Guilin – Yangshou – Kunming - Dali- Lijiang – Leshan – Xian – Beijing – Irkutsk – Moscow - St.Petersburg – Warsaw – Krakow - Prague and London. The travel costs are about the same as your flight home, plus accommodation. It will take at least six weeks to make it worth your 262 while. There are a great variety of possible routes. The best travel information is naturally gleaned from a number of books and the Internet. But, your first stop might be the Monkey Business website http//www.monkeyshrine.com
I hate to dive right in to a travel agent, but their information really is the most comprehensive and accurate of those that I have seen. They are better for JETs because they operate our way round, from China to Europe only. It is possible to book with them through STA Japan, but it costs more.
Monkey Business / Moonsky Star Ltd Chung King Mansion E-block, 4th floor, Flat 6, Nathan Road 36-44 Kowloon, Hong Kong Tel: (852) 2723-1376 Fax: (852) 2723-6653 E-mail: [email protected] Monkey Business Info-centre Capital Forbidden City Hotel, 48 Guang An Men South Street South Building, 3/Xuan Wu District, 100054 Beijing, China. Tel: (+8610) 6356-2126 Fax: (+8610) 6356-2127
By boat from Japan, there are three main ways of hooking up with the end of the train line. You can take a boat from Niigata to Vladivostok, from Osaka or Kobe to China, or from Kyushu to Korea. The Niigata boat is very expensive and at Vladivostok you will have to get straight on the train. It is also much more expensive to buy a train ticket in Russia or for the Russian end of the train. Korea does have boats that link with China, but you cannot go through North Korea so it is not really a direct route.
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All this means that the boat to China from Osaka or Kobe is the easiest route to take. This arrives in Shanghai and is fantastic. You will leave Japan from a large spectacular port with a band playing (a recorded one) and sobbing Chinese waving you off. The ‘Suzhou’ takes about 500 people once a week from either Kobe or Osaka.
It costs around ¥20,000 for a tatami space in a large room of people. The food is cheap and not too bad, but you could take all your own and have great picnics. You will arrive two mornings later in the very centre of Shanghai, less than five minutes walk from the major backpackers’ hotel. The visa for China is perhaps more complicated than getting there. Monkey Business can arrange your Chinese visa for you, but I would recommend getting STA to do it for you by post. Shanghai really is the perfect gateway to China because it has the best English language rail ticket centre, located in the posh hotel to the left of the main railway station. Do not miss the city’s markets and one of the best cultural museums in China.
Just to soften myself up for the train, I did a big loop of the principal sights of China. The closer to Beijing, the better the trains get. There are several rather descriptive classes: hard seat, soft seat, hard sleeper and soft sleeper. Hard sleeper is the budget traveller’s way to go, cheap and comfortable. Hard seat is not the way to go. All trains have a samovar, a supply of boiling water. You must have a good big metal cup, a spoon and a supply of things like pot ramen, porridge, dried milk, tea, coffee, and so on. All these are available in China, none of them in Russia.
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From Beijing you can go to Moscow through China or Mongolia, or wiggle your way along the Silk Route. The Monkey Business site suggests the ins and outs of it all. Basically, the cheapest way is to go straight though China to Russia. As soon as you get off the train the prices rocket—Russia can be very expensive indeed. Moreover, Russian visas are not easy to get in Japan and very tough in China.
You will want to get off at some point as the ride is six days long and you really do not see that much from the train. However, getting off is not easy at all. If you want to get off, my serious budget advice is to go with a package, preferably through Monkey Business. They do everything for you: book by e-mail or fax from Japan, turn up in Beijing to get your ticket, and they will look after you.
The main options are Irkutsk and Mongolia or both. Both are good, but not quite as good as you might imagine. From Irkutsk, we spent a few days at Lake Baikal, which was really refreshing—fantastic food and a really good home-stay with very rural Russian families. The same goes for the Irkutsk home-stay: you get an excellent flavour of a different kind of Russian life.
Seeing how Russian cities are for Russians is not that pleasant. In a family, away from a cocooned hotel, the food is not as good and there is not much to do. Irkutsk tells a lot about life in Russia. You are soon glad to be getting back on the train to whiz by the problems.
It is possible to book a direct ticket relatively easily from Beijing to Moscow through China Travel Service in Shanghai or in Beijing. It
265 is a third or so cheaper than through the travel agents. However, you cannot leave the train. Most people who did this saved about $100 but regretted it. For the train you definitely should have: cup or bowl, spoon, knife, spare cup, lots of vodka, mixers, tea, coffee, hot chocolate, porridge, biscuits, sugar, pot ramen (lots and lots), bread, jam, NASA food, hell, just about anything that expands into something edible when you add boiling water from the samovar. Essentials like bread, water and fruit can be bought on platforms during stops. Whole baked chicken and baked potatoes are available too, but make sure the chicken is scalding and steaming hot when it comes out of the pot. Into Eastern Europe
Moscow is fantastic. You must allow a couple of days there, and then take the night train to St Petersburg. Again, visa arrangements need to be made in advance, because you cannot change them once you are there. Be very careful. An International Student Identification Card is useful because both cities are expensive.
St. Petersburg though, has good, cheap places to eat; you can locate these in the English language newspaper available in the Youth Hostel. Going to St Petersburg however, limits your way out of Russia because of the nasty visa regimes of Belarussia and Ukraine. You must go straight to Warsaw with a compartment full of motherly vodka-filled Russian businesswomen.
From Poland, you are free to go where you want. The cheapest way to London is by coach. You can get one from Warsaw, but that is a bit far. Prague is an easy overnight train and the coach from there is easy to get, regular, cheap and takes 18 hours. You might also 266 consider Euro rail passes, which you can buy from STA in Japan. I strongly recommend Euro bus if you have more time to get to London. It is still very cheap (about $200 for a month) and you can buy it from STA in Japan. It is a kind of fixed-route; unlimited-time Euro rail for buses and it will get you from Poland to London via everywhere else.
Advice for Trans-Siberian rail users
• The best time to make the journey is between May and September when Siberia enjoys fine weather. • Luggage space is very limited so pack lightly. • If you are travelling alone use a four-berth, rather than a two-berth compartment, to reduce the risk of being robbed. • People wanting to deposit their luggage in your compartment may be trying to smuggle. • It is not unknown for Russian customs officials to board the train and check compartments. • At stations and stops, close and lock your windows. • Not all carriages have shower facilities, and the only hot water available is the scalding water for tea. • Do not change too much money in Mongolia, as there is not much to buy. • A deck of cards and a chess set are good ways of meeting the locals. Further information
Trans-Siberian timetable information: http://www.inyos.its.rmit.edu.au/~tbmlc/travel/places/siberia http://www.tiglion.com Tiglion Travel in Hong Kong for info on China [email protected] Photos and firsthand info The Trans-Siberian Rail Guide, Robert Strauss. Covers the history of the Tranzip. Is available from Moonsky Star Ltd. The Big Red Train Ride, Eric Newby The Longest Mile, Harold Elvin 267
The Great Railway Bazaar, Paul Theroux. Includes a section on the Trans-Siberian railway.
Eastern Europe
Prague, The Czech Republic
By Andy Thomas and Henrietta Preiss
Like Venice or Florence, Prague is in many ways a victim of its own success and is fast losing its charm to mass tourism. Still, there is a lot to see and do, and the highlight for us was the castle in Hradcany, which crowns the city. The architecture is a fascinating mix of styles, with the medieval castle walls housing narrow streets and an imposing, rather forbidding cathedral. A popular attraction in the castle district is the house where Franz Kafka once lived. This is in a little street behind the castle known as the Golden Lane, which has multicoloured miniature houses.
From the castle, we walked down to the River Vltava, crossing Charles Bridge, into the old city of Staré Mesto and its main square, Staromestske Namesti. Amidst the many cafés, the famous clock draws crowds every hour to watch the elaborate clock mechanism chime. There is a lot of street art and general tourist knick-knackery in the Staré Mesto and on Charles Bridge, but some traditional exquisite Czech artefacts can be found cheaply, especially Bohemian crystal. The old Jewish quarter of town (Josefov) is definitely worth a visit. There is a moving and inspiring display of children’s art from Theresienstadt, the concentration camp in the Czech Republic.
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Good, cheap cafés and restaurants abound and in the evening there is a wide choice of both chic and traditional bars to drink in, with good Czech beer to be had. Similarly, there are numerous nightclubs. Cheap opera, concert and theatre tickets are easy to find. Ask at the tourist information centre just off Wenceslas Square in the new town (Nové Mesto)
In summer, the hostels and guesthouses fill up quickly and local schools are turned into makeshift dormitories. For this reason, many travellers lodge with locals. It is best to arrange this in advance if possible, but there are lots of people waiting at the station to meet you and offer you accommodation. It can be a cheap and different way to see Czech life. Although most of them are legitimate, you should still exercise caution. Prague is pretty safe, but be sure you know where you are being taken and if you have any doubts, walk away. Be careful of pickpockets on the subway.
Budapest, Hungary
By Henrietta Preiss
Romantic, elegant Buda and its soviet-style, commercial partner, Pest, straddle the Danube fusing to make Budapest. At first glance, Budapest appears to be a dreadful Soviet hangover. The drab landscape is littered with grey concrete buildings. However, once you reach the centre of Pest, the administrative and business heart of Hungary, you will find a refreshingly chic, modern shopping district that has many cafes, bars and restaurants.
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The atmosphere is one of relaxed contentment. On the banks of the Danube is the imposing, gothic parliament building. Across the river sits hilly Buda, looking down on her partner as if to say, “I’m the king of the castle,” and indeed, she would be right. For Buda is the old part of town and is similar to Prague, minus the tourists. Cobbled streets, fine architecture, museums and fantastic views make for a very historical feel.
The oriental-looking Fisherman’s Bastion and Matthias Church perch majestically on top of Castle Hill (Várhegy) and keep watch over the whole of the city. Immediately south is the Royal Palace and the National Gallery. Waters from the Buda hills serve Budapest’s many natural spas. These thermal baths are the best way to relax after a hard day’s sightseeing. The crème de la crème of these spas is Hotel Gellert, situated on the Buda banks of the Danube next to the chain bridge. The mosaic-tiled interior, pillars and archways are all reminiscent of Roman times, and the experience is quite different to a Japanese bath.
Budapest is still a bargain travel destination not yet choked by tourism. There are many hostels near the station, but some are in disrepair. Food and drink are excellent, and the city has a lively nightlife. Like Prague, however, keep an eye on your valuables.
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Krakow, Poland
By Henrietta Preiss This elegant city is surrounded by the picturesque Tatra Mountains—where you can ski in winter—and just oozes culture. Small cobbled streets lead you away from the vast central market square, Rynek Glówny.
The cloth hall Sukiennice, now a lively market, is fringed around the outside with terrace cafes and enchanting pre-war coffee houses and restaurants, illuminated only by candles and dimmed wall lights. The atmosphere is something from another era, and you will almost expect to see officers in uniform escorting lavishly gowned maidens to their tables. Kraków’s nightlife is not something to be sniffed at either. Polish popular culture is well on its way to catching up with its western counterpart.
Visit the old Jewish quarter, a sobering part of Kraków, where Schindler’s List was filmed. Auschwitz is also nearby and should not be missed. Kraków is a refreshing escape from the grey cities of Eastern Europe and a chance to see real Polish country life up close.
Moscow and St. Petersburg, Russia
By Ken Januszewski
Walk around the Kremlin or near tourist areas and teenage boys will be around hawking T-shirts, postcards, old Soviet Army hats and just about anything that is not nailed down. The youngest of the
271 salesmen are elementary school age boys and they are relegated to selling the apparently not very profitable postcards.
Getting to the subway trains themselves reveals a little of Soviet thinking. The tracks are all really deep below ground. The subways double as air raid shelters. The older subway stations were crafted very beautifully. Some have marble pillars, vaulted ceilings and intricate chandeliers. The newer ones, however, are just poured concrete. The train lines on the map are uniquely colour-coded. All are white. The trains are old and thoroughly USSR grade “functional,” meaning that it is surprising that they function at all!
At the Kremlin, I paid a guide to talk to me about the life, politics and history of contemporary Russia, which was fascinating. We talked for hours about our two different cultures. At the youth hostel in Moscow, I arranged to do a home-stay with a woman in St. Petersburg. The whole home-stay experience was very pleasant, something I could not have hoped to duplicate in a hotel. The lady was very friendly and her humble home was a real insight into Russian life.
I took the overnight train to St. Petersburg, costing about $20. On my first day in there I went to the Hermitage Museum. It is an awe-inspiring museum, beautifully constructed and decorated, and containing art works from across the world. In addition, from almost every window in the museum there was a wonderful view of some part of the city.
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When I walked around St. Petersburg, I felt the scale was impressive. The city was made out of marshes and islands at the mouth of the Neva River, built to withstand the rigors of time and use, whilst remaining elegant. Recently the carefully crafted buildings have by and large been neglected, and up close it shows. But walking through the streets with canals separating opposing lanes of traffic, the grandeur is still there.
The main street, Nevsky Prospect (prospect means avenue) is non-stop bustle. People sell roses, dolls, ice cream, and young men hold dollar signs, ready to trade roubles to dollars. I found it important to check the rates before buying, though. The best rate I got in St. Petersburg was at the foreign currency window of the Astor Hotel, not on the street, as you would think. Whenever I changed money in Russia, it had to be a crisp clean bill. Rat-eared, old-as-the-hills notes are like not carrying dollars at all. No one will accept them in exchange for roubles or goods.
Further information
Ecology camps in the Urals. Invitations for independent travel in Russia from £84; home-stay accommodation in Moscow (US$39 per day) all organised by: Findhorn (Liza Hollinghead) , The Park Forres, Morayshire, IV36 OTZ, Scotland, UK Tel / Fax: (44) 1309-690-995 Host Families Association (HOFA), St. Petersburg E-mail:[email protected] Russian Youth Hostels (California based) E-mail: [email protected]
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Western Europe
Innsbruck, Austria
By Gayle Thomson
Located in the south Tyrol region of Austria is Innsbruck. A town surrounded by mountains, Innsbruck is perfect for an outdoor short break or as a launching pad for Italy, Germany and Switzerland. Visit in any season for days of fun exercise in gorgeous valleys and nights of solid beer and inner glow! Not to mention the inexhaustible café opportunities for you and your favourite books.
Make your first stop the train station to buy an “Innsbruck card.” This can be valid from 24 hours to a week and it provides access to all Innsbruck's attractions plus cable car rides. It is a great money saver and itinerary planner. Separate tram and bus passes are also available. I found the transport system to be good value and efficient. Accommodation in Innsbruck is well priced. The Youth Hostel, which is opposite the train station, is clean and well managed.
Attractions not to miss include the bell museum, which is surprisingly interesting, and the Alpen zoo (bears, wolves, and all the other Alpen animals). Innsbruck's main theatre has some excellent musicals and it also puts on Shakespeare; concerts are held regularly in local churches and the cathedral; and there is a tiny arts cinema that shows films in English. A tram ride takes you to the main entertainment dome for bowling, cinema, pubs and fast food. Mainstream films are shown in English on Wednesdays. 274
Innsbruck's real charm is its natural beauty. A great way to get a panoramic view of the town is to take a tram or cable car to one of the many vantage points that the surrounding mountains provide. The vistas are simply stunning. If you want to ski you can jump on a complimentary bus that leaves major hotels for a free ride to the slope. If skiing is not your thing you can still go to the slope and get a hike pass. You can take full advantage of skiing in season and there are excellent hiking opportunities in summer. Café culture blooms in the old town (alt stadt). There are some lovely cafés in the town square facing the famous golden roof.
Check out the speciality teahouse, Café Suchere, where you are served as they were in the nineteenth century. Further into the high street Café Vienna has superb food and pastries plus amazingly designed toilets!
Austrian food is simple and wholesome. Specialities include cold sausages, pretzels, a potato ball and of course pickled cabbage. Steaks are expensive, as is wine, but restaurants are in abundance here. If you want to take a step back into hunting parties of the past you can go to a stag restaurant opposite the golden roof. There you can eat surrounded by animal prizes of the past! The revolving restaurant on top of the West Mountains serves excellent food and is great for a romantic evening. In any food outlets you will pay your waiter at the table. Do tip, as tips of even small amounts will be remembered.
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Pubs are also in plentiful supply. There is an excellent Irish pub opposite the Innsbruck bank (inside the bank there is free email - just get a bank member to admit you). A personal favourite was "Hoftgarden", a club pub in the main park on the south side of the river. Another must see pub is the "Sky Lounge." Take a lift behind the Innsbruck Bank and have cocktails on the top floor overlooking the city.
France
By Henrietta Preiss
L’Hexagone is made up of a variety of different regions and is a very popular, inexpensive country for travellers. Do not fall into the trap of visiting only Paris; the country has so much more to offer.
The French Alps are possibly the best winter sports region in Europe. Haute Savoie plays host to millions of tourists in both summer and winter. In the summer in Tignes, you can ski on the glacier in a bikini if you so choose. Unfortunately, many of the tiny alpine villages have been turned into monstrous resort towns, and much of their original charm has been lost. Hiking, rafting, climbing, paragliding and climbing are all offered in this region during the summer.
On the hedonistic south coast, Cannes and Nice are a stark contrast with the surrounding Province and Camargue regions. The south coast is intensely hot and dusty in summer and alive with exotic
276 flora and fauna. The Loire valley and the wine producing regions of the west are great camping and biking areas.
Near Poitiers is Futuroscope, a cinematic theme park with quite astonishing futuristic architecture and hands-on cinematic attractions. Northern France is very developed in places but Brittany has many beautiful little ports and seaside towns, splendid seafood and its own distinct culture. Breton is still spoken there, and the link with England is still noticeable. Alsace retains much of its Germanic flavour due to its periods of occupation in the past.
Paris
You will either love it or hate it, but Paris can be what you make it. With such a wealth of monuments and famous places, real, everyday Paris can seem quite impenetrable. The hustle and bustle of daily life in the narrow, cobbled back streets of Montmartre, where Parisians sit chatting over a coffee, shows the more human side to this great city.
Some museums are closed on Mondays or Tuesdays (the Louvre is not open on Tuesdays). In the summer months the city is really overrun with tourists. Queuing for hours to get a glimpse of the tiny Mona Lisa can take all the magic out of the experience. The best way to enjoy Paris’ glorious, romantic atmosphere is just to stroll around at your leisure, especially in the evening when the Eiffel Tower, the Champs Elysées and Notre Dame are all floodlit and the crowds have dispersed.
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Germany Frankfurt
By Laura Mowbray
Boring Bankfurt and Mainhattan—lifeless business town. So goes the reputation. Consequently, most people pass straight through and miss out on a city with a rich cultural scene, a vibrant nightlife and excellent restaurants. Admittedly, Frankfurt is not pretty. The town centre was 90% destroyed in the 1944 air raids, so the key to loving Frankfurt is by knowing where to look.
Around about the Römer there are remains of the 15th century town hall, the façade of which miraculously survived the bombing when all around was reduced to rubble. From the Römer it is impossible to miss the towering red sandstone steeple of Frankfurt cathedral, where the Holy Roman Emperors used to be crowned. Climb the steeple on a clear day for a great view of Frankfurt. Head south of the Römer and you come to the banks of the Main, where boats depart regularly during the summer months on trips through Frankfurt or places further a field, such as Mainz, Koblenz or even Cologne. Going west of the city centre along the south bank of the Main, there is the Museum Embankment (Museumsufer), which is home to many of Germany’s national museums and art galleries (including the world famous Städel Art Institute).
The municipal theatre, opera and ballet are very reasonably priced with a 50% discount for holders of a student ID. The old opera house is worth a visit for its beautiful architecture alone. Left a
278 burned-out shell after WWII, it narrowly escaped demolition by the city council in the 1970s, and is now fronted by a beautiful square with a fountain and the gardens of the Taunusanlage leading off it. Frankfurt takes immense pride in its favourite son, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe and his birthplace has become a museum. The Opernplatz is packed in the summer with people roller-blading, break-dancing, or simply relaxing in front of the fountain with an ice cream.
If you ditch culture for something a bit more modern, the Zeil is Frankfurt’s main shopping street, packed with department stores and designer boutiques. The main attraction is the Zeil Galerie mall, which seems to keep going up and up with floor after floor of shops. There is an outdoor viewing gallery, an indoor IMAX theatre on the rooftop and restaurants where you can eat overlooking the whole city.
The best cafés are in the student area along Leipziger Strasse in Bockenheim. For a night out of pubbing and clubbing, try the Berger Strasse in Bornheim—great for lazy summer evenings spent outside on the street with a cool beer. Or head south of the river to Alt-Sachsenhausen with its labyrinth of cobbled lanes laden with pubs and discos. Frankfurt is a city of jazz. The Jazzkeller in the Kleine Bockenheimer Strasse has been attracting famous jazz musicians from around the globe for more than 30 years. Other well-known venues include Mampf, Blues & Beyond and the Dreikönigskeller. Try Frankfurt’s traditional drink, Apfelwein—like flat cider—with excellent German food in the Sachsenhausen area of town. From May
279 to September, various quarters of Frankfurt buzz with street festivals. Wine, food and beer tents keep the punters happy well in to the night.
Wiesbaden, Mainz, Darmstadt, Hanau and the beautiful university town of Heidelberg are all less than an hour away from Frankfurt by rail, so day trips and further exploration of the surrounding area are very easy to organise. Alternatively, a trip into the countryside to the Taunus hills north west of the city can be a way of escaping the smog and getting back to nature. The pretty villages of Königstein and Kronberg nestle in the hills and are a perfect starting point for a country walk. They also offer a number of beer gardens as a tempting finishing point. A little further a field is the spa town of Bad Homburg. It has a 17th century castle and a large park containing many natural mineral water sources.
Further information
The main youth hostel in Frankfurt is on the river in Sachsenhausen, but there is plenty of other cheap accommodation available.
The Frankfurt public transport system is excellent. A day ticket (Tageskarte) for DM10 covers all train and subway routes, and trams and buses within the city.
Berlin
By Henrietta Preiss
Once a divided city, vast Berlin is one of Europe’s most vibrant and modern capitals. Sitting on the River Spree, this city of 3.5 million people is a historian’s dream.
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The central Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtnis Kirche, which was bombed by the British in 1943, and the adjacent Salt and Pepper pot churches in Berlin’s main street, the Kurfürstendamm, are testament to Berlin’s wartime destruction. Similarly, the grim, grey, Soviet-style Alexanderplatz Platz and its TV Tower are central reminders of East Berlin’s enforced isolation. However, many of the finest museums are to be found in former East Berlin in what is known as the Museumsinsel. The most notable of these is the enormous Pergamon Museum, which houses the Walls of Babylon and the Egyptian Museum. In the former East quarter, there is the Hackschen Höfe, a new venue for the performing arts and exhibitions. In the centre of the town is the glorious old palace of Charlottenburg, which survived the bombs.
Despite reunification, the physical differences and social problems between the former west and east sections remain visible. That said, with the return of the parliament to its former home in the Reichstag, the announcement of the so-called Berlin Republic, and Germany’s role in Europe growing increasingly stronger, Berlin has a lot to offer.
German youth culture rivals that of any Western country. Wander around the centre of the city during the day or sample it for yourself during the evening. The Berlin Film Festival is held in February, and the Love Parade turns the city upside-down in July. There is plenty of culture—alternative, classical and popular—to be had. Pick up a copy of the English language Checkpoint magazine for entertainment listings.
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Kreuzberg is no longer the trendy, alternative favourite it once was. Since reunification, the underground music and art scene, trendy cafés and alternative hangouts have relocated to Prenzlauer Berg. For shop-aholics, do not miss the wonderful KDW department store, whose food department puts even Harrods to shame.
Around the Brandenburg Gate, hawkers will try to sell you pieces of the wall (which are usually fake), old East German military knick-knackery, and lots of tourist rubbish. The real Wall is gone but reminders of Berlin’s recent past still linger on. To the west of the Checkpoint Charlie Museum, you can see chunks of the graffiti-adorned wall and the former No Man’s Land. The museum pays tribute to those who lost their lives trying to escape East Germany. The various methods of both escape and its prevention made for a fascinating display.
Italy
By Gayle Thomson
The contrasting cities of Rome and Florence offer the best views of Italy. The urban nature of Rome and the rural quality of Florence combine with beautiful wine for an unforgettable experience.
Rome Arriving in Rome you will be faced with a bustling, gorgeous city full of people and fantastic buildings. This is history and shopping heaven! Finding your way from the train station is easy. Although it is reputed to be the most dangerous station in Europe it is clearly laid 282 out. Taking the main exit north, this leads onto the main road. This is the location for cheap self-catering apartments and the youth hostel. The south exit leads onto the bus station and subway entrance. Note that buses run later and are better value than the subway, which stops at 11pm.
Rome is packed with must-see attractions. St. Peter's is the historical centre of Rome and is a great first stop. It is well worth the money to climb the dome. You can even buy, write, and send a postcard from the post office at the first level rooftop. From there the view of the Vatican gardens is superb. The Coliseum is impressive from the outside, especially with the mock gladiator guards. Behind the Coliseum is the Forum. Here you will find some of Rome's most famous ruins. Other relics and ruins can be found throughout the city. The Spanish Steps area is the shopping centre of Rome. There's a beautiful fountain at the bottom of the steps. The actual steps are worth sitting on, if only to watch the street entertainers and the people going by. At the top of the steps are many artists and caricaturists. The Trevi Fountain is usually crowded but it is a must. By tossing in a coin you will be assured to return to Rome. While there are always more "must-see" sites to visit in Rome (there is an almost endless number of churches, monuments, statues, ruins and so on) it is lovely just to meander round the inner-city streets.
There are so many secluded squares with fountains, markets, and bars to browse wine, though it will be a far cry from the wine you are probably used to at home. Two Irish and relax in. The water, the air, the atmosphere of being in Rome should not be missed. The little
283 churches and cafés that you stumble across will be a pleasant surprise. Food does not have to be expensive here. Look out for deals and set menus of pasta and ice cream. However the cheap bars are near Piazza Navona. There is one near the Spanish Steps that has excellent lunch deals. It is worth carrying water in bottles, as refreshments are extortionate near the main sites.
Florence Florence is only two hours by train from Rome. A fabulous way to start the day in Florence is by ascending the tower of the city's most famous basilica, the Doumo. Beautiful views of red-tile rooftops, the river, and gorgeous mountains await you at the top.
The art galleries in Florence (Uffizi, Accademia, etc.) are very famous and very busy. But you can avoid ticket queues by booking in advance on the Internet. That great tourist favourite, Michelangelo's David, can be found at the Accademia.
Again, while there are many tourist attractions to see, Florence is also about strolling. If you take a bus to the Piazzale Michelangelo, you will be awarded with a spectacular view of the city. This main viewpoint is a popular spot for wedding photos. It also has great outdoor cafés. Near here is the youth hostel, a beautiful Tuscan villa.
Florence's infamous Ponte Veccio Bridge, one of only two in the world to be covered in shops, is worth a browse. Inevitably, food and drink is pricier here. Regardless of where you are eating, it is a good 284 idea to hit the restaurants at around 8pm. That way you can get tables that were reserved but have been cancelled. As the sun sets, feel the heat and passion of Italian music, food, architecture and life.
Spain Lazy days and nights in Madrid
By Jim Frank
Transport in the capital of Spain is cheap and reliable. I took the metro (subway) everywhere, because it is easy to use. In the six months that I rode it, the pickpockets tried to get me only once—supposedly I was lucky. When spring comes, the Spanish, like most Mediterranean people, can be found sitting outside in a café, bar or park talking animatedly to one another.
It took me some time to gain a sense of direction in the often-winding streets of the city, but my efforts were rewarded by the discovery of many unique places. One I distinctly remember is near the Plaza Major, and is reputed to have been a hangout of Ernest Hemmingway. It has a sign outside that says, “We don’t speak English, but we won’t laugh at your Spanish.” That bar is in the neighbourhood of some of the funkiest old taverns Madrid has to offer: the mesones. They are all located on the outside wall of the Plaza Major, down the steps. There are all types of mesones: mushroom, pork, snail, and so on. Each specialises in one entrée served with sangria. My friends and I liked the champiñones (mushroom) meson best. The old man at the keyboard played like there was no tomorrow
285 and the sangria washed the mushrooms down well. Saturday afternoons were often spent at the art museums because it is the only day that there is no entrance fee. The vast collections on display at the Prado, Reina Sophia and Thyssen museums are all within walking distance of each other and the metro stop.
There are many day trip possibilities from Madrid as well. Toledo is the home of Spanish sword makers, and Salamanaca has one of the oldest universities in the world. Quenca and Avila are also nearby. The most enjoyable festival in the region was Las Fayas in Valencia. This is a weeklong celebration at the beginning of April, culminating in the torching of enormous floats. For months preceding the festival, various neighbourhoods spend millions of pesetas to build these floats out of papiér maché, balsa wood and wax, only to have their creations set aflame. My only caution is that you make your stay in Spain short enough so that you do not fall in love with the place and never want to leave.
Granada
By Stacey Kerns I tricked my friends and dragged them through Spain for this single city. It is off the beaten path from the highly travelled Madrid to Barcelona backpacker route. Situated on a main agricultural plain in the south, it is not anywhere near the ocean. Even so, if I could live anywhere, I would live here. Granada is a fabulous place to visit. It is a large city in the provinces, so it feels more Spanish than Madrid. Though it lacks the nightlife of Barcelona, it is a rest from the Gaudi inspired architecture of that city.
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The main attraction of Granada is La Alhambra. La Alhambra is an old fortification and palace that sits on a hill over-looking the city. Everything was built by the Moors—the palace, the battlements (La Alcazaba), and the gardens (Generalife). It served as the seat of Arabian culture throughout the Middle Ages. As a palace, La Alhambra is an architectural delight that is based upon the elements of light, space, air and water. Artisans and masters carved marble and alabaster so that they appear to have no weight at all. Fountains and reflecting pools are incorporated into the design of every part of the building.
Specifically, the Court of the Lions is amazing in the symmetry of its arches and columns, but my personal favourite is the Patio de los Arrayanes. When I walked into the open courtyard, I felt as if a bat had hit me. Was it the tapas I had for lunch? Was it perhaps a past life resurfacing? No. It was simply that beautiful.
Alcazaba is more prosaic, with its practical defences of turrets and battlements, but the Generalife picks up the theme of space and water again with reflecting pools nestled in manicured gardens. Granada isn’t only La Alhambra. It has a beautiful cathedral that is near La Longa, an ancient open-air market that has traded the fine silks and exotic Moorish delights for souvenirs, but still a sight to be seen. Outside of town are the Caves of Sacromonte, where gypsies used to make their homes. Now the caves have been converted into stores and club venues, where you can see flamenco performances.
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Granada also has a bull-fighting arena, for the more bloodthirsty traveller.
Nightlife centres on the tapas bars where you can find great eats for cheap. There are, of course, plenty of restaurants too, with the priciest being closest to La Alhambra. There are regular trains to Granada from Madrid and Barcelona, including a night train from Madrid. It is a good bet for the traveller who has a Eurail pass, or for anyone who does not have the time or money to spend on a hotel.
In Granada itself, there is not much in the way of bus transportation and driving on the narrow streets in inadvisable. However, the city is small enough to walk, so transport should not be a major problem. The hapless friends that I dragged along later told me that Granada was one of the best places they had been. I recommend Granada for any traveller who wishes to experience a bit of ‘real’ Spain without leaving behind the comforts and entertainment of a larger city.
A great English web site for information on La Alhambra is at http://www.alhambra.org. It explains how to obtain tickets and when it is open, and also has pictures of the palace. It also has a link to the Granada city homepage.
Seville
By Ariën Koorn Once the primary port of embarkation for ships bound for the New World during Spain’s Golden Age, this city has seen a colourful
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(if blood-stained) array of explorers, conquistadors, and legends set sail and then return with the plunder of the Americas’ gold. The lighthouse in the harbour, the Tower of Gold, takes its name from the fact that it was once completely gilded and shone brighter in the daylight than at night.
The Giralda, a Moorish bell-tower, still stands above the city, affording a bird’s-eye view of the Alcazar and its lush gardens, the sweeping, modern bridges built to commemorate the World Fair in 1992, and the powerful gothic cathedral that dominates the centre of the town. The Cathedral is the second largest in the world and houses the elaborate black marble tomb of Christopher Columbus.
I was there during Holy Week, when groups of robed and hooded penitents walk barefoot through the cobbled streets. They bear figures, heavy with silver and gold, of the Virgin Mary or the Macarena (the patron saint of the city, not the dance). For this event, the streets are lined with hordes of people, although I had the good fortune to be inside the Cathedral itself to see the beginning of one of the many processions. The sound of shuffling feet, candles barely piercing the gloom under the massive arches, smoke from the incense burners wreathing the spectre-like hoods and robes of the marchers, the stillness shattered by trumpets heralding the opening of the doors—some memories defy description.
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Switzerland
By Henrietta Preiss
A healthy, wealthy, and wise country sandwiched in the middle of Europe’s big boys, little Switzerland has much to offer the outdoors-enthusiast. It is stunningly beautiful and conveniently located for exploring the rest of Western Europe.
Hiking, climbing and water sports are the order of the day in summer, and in winter Switzerland is one of the safest places to learn to ski or snowboard. Being mostly alpine, the country has many ski areas to choose from. Klosters and St. Moritz are the most famous.
One of the best things about Switzerland is its blend of cultures due to its four different languages. Tourism is big business. For this reason and due to environmental concerns, motorized vehicles are not allowed in many of the alpine villages. So despite often being über-kitsch tourist traps, these villages retain some of their simple, traditional charm.
The Jungfrau, Eiger and Mönch mountain range near Interlaken in west Switzerland is magnificent in any season. Take a train up the highest railway in Europe (no cars allowed) to Wengen and Kleiner Scheidegg for skiing in the winter and hiking in the summer and then on to the summit at 3454m. The ice sculptures inside the Jungfrau itself are quite astonishing.
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Bern and Geneva are very exclusive up-market towns, but Geneva, sitting gently on the shores of Lac Léman, is a very calm and friendly place. A short walk from the serenity of the lake with its famous jet d’eau is the UN building, which you can tour. Whilst in Switzerland, make sure you try the local cuisine. Fondues and raclette. Both made from Swiss cheeses, they are unique and delicious.
The Americas
The Americas by bike
By Jo Macgregor (Canada and the US - Peru - Chile - Argentina - Brazil - New Orleans) Planning It is important to take into consideration seasonal weather patterns when planning your route. Sorting out the red tape is also time consuming. I advise writing to embassies about visa requirements. This is especially important if you are cycling, as you often do not meet the "onward or return ticket" requirement. In South American countries, make sure you get your passport stamped on entry and exit, or you could face a fine. As far as money is concerned, I always had an emergency supply of U.S. dollars and traveller’s checks. Mostly though, I relied on my bankcards (Cirrus, Plus, and Visa). I found it very useful to have cards covering both networks, as some countries seemed to have only one or the other. Any large city in South America will have Tam’s, where you can withdraw US dollars or local currency. Make sure you get enough out to last you until you reach the next big city.
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I needed a battery of immunizations before this trip. Make sure you allow plenty of time, as many need booster shots up to 6 months later. The World Health Organisation (http://www.who.int) publishes an up-to-date list of requirements for all countries, or you can check with your doctor. For South America, and because I was cycling, I got additional shots of rabies and yellow fever. Bear in mind that yellow fever shots are usually only available in a few locations in any country.
In terms of physical preparation, make sure you have a vague idea of your limitations, and the effect that different terrain and weather conditions will have on your daily mileage. Then there is the issue of gear. This is a list of what I had after cycling through North and South America:
Mountain Bike: I prefer cromoly steel frames, which can be welded anywhere. These frames usually have a good mix of strength and lightness and are great for any terrain. Good gears and good brakes are a must—pay the extra for a decent brand. A really strong steel rack is essential. I found Nitto to be the best make. Semi-slick tires are good for the USA and Canada, while knobblies are best for most of Central and South America.
Baggage: 2 rear panniers (waterproof); handlebar bag; canoeist waterproof wet bag (bungied on top of rear rack); camelback for water.
Camping Gear: Tent (free standing, two person); sleeping bag (a warm one!); Thermorest, pot, cutlery, penknife, MSR stove and fuel
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(you can use varied types of fuel with this stove); headlight; food (a lot!); camp towel.
Clothes: Obviously clothes to cover any possible weather variation. Raingear (I had a Goretex jacket, pants, socks and gloves), warm hat, additional socks and gloves, sunglasses and hot weather cycling gloves, fleece and many layers of thermals. Cycling shorts and tops, spare civilian clothes, swimsuit, sandals and sneakers.
Bits and Pieces: High-factor sunscreen, maps, guide book, toiletries, toilet paper, camera, insect repellent, journal, money belt, first aid kit, bike bag.
Tools and Spares: Pump, lock, spare tire and tubes, puncture repair kit, spare cables, brake pads, spokes, nuts and bolts, oil, grease, rags, allen keys, spanners screw drivers, spoke tool, chain breaker, pliers, multitool.
Maps for developing countries are best bought from a developed country, and even then should be taken with a pinch of salt!
The Cycle Touring Club, Cotterell House, 69 Meadrow, Godalming, Surrey, GU7 3HS, UK, has a lot of valuable cycle touring information from all over the world.
North America After getting used to American-sized food portions, exploring Haight-Ashbury and riding the streetcars, I cycled out of San Francisco over the Golden Gate Bridge. I got completely lost riding up 293 and down steep inclines toward what I thought was Golden Gate Bridge but actually turned out to be the Berkeley Bridge. Realising my mistake, I turned around and took on San Francisco’s rush hour traffic towards the Golden Gate Bridge. When I eventually found the long and winding road up the mountain to the campground it was already getting dark.
Everything got easier after that inauspicious start. My planned route was to cycle north to Jasper, Canada and zigzag down through the Rocky Mountains. Heading north from San Francisco along State Highway One, I met many cycle tourists going in the opposite direction, as it is a common cycle thoroughfare along beautiful coastline.
There is a good discount system in US State Parks, where people without motorized transport pay only $1-$3 for a "hiker/biker" camping spot. They are always in wonderful locations and are great places to meet other travellers. Northern California encompasses a range of scenery, from the coast to the towering redwood forest. People everywhere in the western US were easy-going, friendly and welcoming. Crater Lake National Park in Oregon was breathtaking. The national parks have entry fees of between $5 and $10. I cycled through the beautiful scenery of the Cascade Mountains, around Mt. St. Helens and Mt. Rainier and up to Seattle in an unrelenting heat wave.
Canada is an outdoor lover’s paradise: there are numerous national parks for hiking and biking. The West Coast Trail in BC
294 and the Chilikoot Trail in the Yukon are two of the most renowned hikes, both taking five to seven days. The skiing season usually begins at the end of November and lasts through April. BC’s Whistler, Blackcomb, Seymour, Grouse and Washington resorts and Alberta’s Banff, Kananaskis and Jasper are reputedly the best.
There is one main domestic airline, Air Canada. However a regional airline called WestJet often has better prices. Sometimes Air Canada has discounts for advance booking and under-25s. Greyhound buses are a cheaper but limited option. The VIA Rail Canadian crosses country from Vancouver to the Maritimes. Website: www.viarail.ca
From Seattle, I took a ferry to Victoria on Vancouver Island and saw perhaps the most beautiful scenery I would see during my eight months on the road. There are snow-capped forested peaks wherever you look on a ride that takes you from seaside to toy-town-fantasyland-ski-resort. Heading north into the wilderness, the gradients increased to 15% and bear warnings became prolific. Needless to say, I bought the standard issue pressurized bear spray in the next town. This made me feel much better. I never saw a single bear, but the spray did come in useful for the packs of hungry dogs that attacked me in Mexico.
The Icefields Parkway between Jasper and Banff is cycle central, where you get to meet cyclists from all over the world. There are a couple of passes along the way, as well as glaciers, mountains, lakes and assorted wildlife. It has to be said that the whole area is
295 absolutely stunning. Banff is an outdoors playground where you can try anything—for a price. There are a few campgrounds on the peripheries of town with public transport connecting them to the centre if you cannot be bothered to cycle.
For the next month I zigzagged through the Rocky Mountains, through the thermal wonderland of Yellowstone, the mountainous grandeur of Grand Teton National Park, and all of Utah and Colorado. There are campgrounds, national and state parks, and glorious free camping spots all along the way. Whenever I went off-road, though, I ran the risk of trudging through the clay-like mud that clung to our bikes. Colorado is beautiful. The first stop was Mesa Verde, "Green Hill," National Park in the southwestern corner of Colorado. It is a wonderful mix of forest and Native American caves—a special place. From there, I went through an Indian reservation in northern Arizona. It felt like a different country.
I headed west to see the Grand Canyon. Dawn and dusk are the best times to see the canyon. It is very scary when viewed from the rim, albeit glowing with the most beautiful pastel shades under the sun. I headed south to the Sonoran Desert that straddles Arizona and Mexico. It is known as the living desert, possibly because of the large variety of desert plant life it supports, or possibly because of all the snakes and tarantulas waiting ominously by the side of the road. The American Southwest is full of thorns, which cause punctures like there is no tomorrow. I had six in one day. Luckily the local bike shops all have "thorn resistant tubes." It is a bit complicated to get
296 them fitted and they are heavier than normal tires, but it was the best investment I made on this trip, as I didn't have another puncture.
After the Sonoran desert, I hit the coast of Mexico and wound my way down through idyllic seaside villages with gorgeous beaches. The laid-back attitude to life is infectious. Mexico City is a fun place and the people are wonderful. On the outskirts are the ancient ruins of Teotihuacan, including the pyramids of the sun and moon, which are certainly worth a day trip.
Peru The Gold Museum in Lima is certainly worth a look, but overall the city has a desperate, dismal feel to it. I headed straight up into the Andes. The road goes from sea level to the 4818m Ticlio mountain pass in about 140km. Although the road was paved, I was trying to adjust to the increasing altitude so I spent the first night at 2400m in Matucana. I met another cyclist there and the next day we rode to the top of the mountain. It was not very far, but the altitude slowed us down a lot. It took nearly all day to reach the top, feeling every pedal stroke and gasping at every breath. We zoomed 1500m down the other side to La Oroya. The landscape at the top was amazing with lunar-like glaciers and frozen lakes. The next day we followed the dirty river to Huancayo, which marked the end of the paved roads and the beginning of a myriad of trails to Ayacucho. We went up and up.
Some of the roads I can only describe as steep, dried up riverbeds. At many of the villages we were told to take shortcuts, which invariably resulted in beautiful scenery and tiny indigenous villages, despite even worse roads! Sometimes kids on claptrap old 297 bikes would ride with us for a while. People were always so helpful to us, pointing us in the right direction and giving us shelter from the rain that sometimes turned the roads into mudslides. Ayacucho is a colourful university town with great markets. From there I continued solo to Cuzco. The road went up and down between 2000m and 4300m six times on more dubious surfaces. This area of Peru is very poor. It also has a lot of passport control stops because of the Shining Path group that originated here.
I got sick once while riding, and found myself sitting in the middle of a town square, doubled over in pain. Within two seconds, the whole village was looking after me. They found me a bed, brought me food and gave me lots of herbal tea. I think I got well just on their good will. Cuzco is the former seat of the Incan Empire. Set aside two days for wandering around the old, windy streets. Cuzco is the tourist town in Peru. It is in close proximity to many famous ruins, beautiful hiking trails and bustling markets, and you can organise any kind of adventure tourism you wish. It is an oasis for travellers in Peru.
After saying a sad farewell to Cuzco and climbing one last high pass, I hit the altiplano, a flat, treeless plain at 3800m. The main inconvenience of this terrain was the lack of hiding places in which to relieve one self. It was the first time I had truly appreciated the wisdom and practicality of the grand voluminous skirts the local women wear!
Chile I wandered around Santiago awe-struck for the first few days—everything seemed so clean and in working order. There were 298 things to buy in the shops and hot showers at my disposal. I got my bike fixed and headed south.
Chile is a delightful place to bike. Everywhere I went, there were orchards and willow trees and vineyards, an abundance of fresh fruit by the roadsides, perfectly symmetrical snow-capped volcanoes, lakes, forests, rivers and cyclists galore. Mostly we free-camped, took some smaller dirt roads around the lakes district and met still more generous Chileans who gave us honey, berries and all matter of food and drink on a daily basis. All of it the best we had ever tasted.
Argentina Crossing the border into Argentina was spectacular. Argentine skies are so blue they almost make your eyes water. Up in the Andes, the wind in Patagonia is ferocious. I was blown off the road more than a few times as well as, on one occasion, being blown to a standstill pedalling downhill. Away from the shelter of the Andes, I met some Argentine cyclists going in the opposite direction. They were heading south on a mission to plant Argentine flags on parts of Chile they felt belonged to them.
I kept following a series of rivers and dams northeast through Patagonia. I came across the odd tiny town, and one place that held the largest dinosaur bones in the world. I stopped for their wonderful ice cream shops (heladeria), where I was always taken in, fed, introduced to their friends, interviewed by the local media, given e-mail access and made to feel as though I could never leave. I encountered this kind of hospitality all over Argentina.
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The Pampas was never-ending flatness, insects, sunflower fields and more skin-sizzling sun. Buenos Aires is a fabulous city. The atmosphere is a mélange of European, Latin American and New World influences, where art in all its forms is very much alive and kicking. Riding north, the wildlife by the side of the road grew more exotic—anteaters, strange insects, snakes and butterflies of every conceivable colour and design. Do not miss the mammoth Iguacu waterfalls. See the Argentine side first, as the Brazilian side defies description.
Brazil Rio is another fantastic city. I did not feel unsafe at all, although I heard lots of bad stories. I stayed at the Copacabana Praia Youth Hostel, owned by the jovial Carlos. Sugar Loaf and the Cocovado have amazing views of the city, and there is a plethora of famous beaches, great nightlife, and the joie de vivre of the people is infectious. I do not think it is possible to go to Rio and not fall in love with it.
Back to the states: New Orleans I flew from Rio to New Orleans via New Jersey. I really enjoyed New Orleans. It is a total party town. Bourbon Street comes alive every night and the whole city has a wonderful atmosphere. There is music inside, music outside, music wherever you go. There are loads of tourist things too: swamp tours, food tours, plantation house tours and Mississippi River tours - it is endless! My overall impression of the cycling I did in North and South America is how wonderful the people were everywhere. The scenery was sublime, and the freedom you experience on a bicycle is unparalleled.
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Further information http://www.ibike.org/travel.htm International Bicycle Fund Journey Latin America: [email protected] http://www.latinworld.com/countries links to the Latin world
Bolivia
By Jeff Carpenter
A possible base for Lake Titicaca is Copacabana in Bolivia. It is a four-hour bus ride south of Puno, just on the other side of the Peru/Bolivian border. This might be a wise choice for the budget traveller as Bolivia is much cheaper than Peru. Half the population is of indigenous descent and most speak Quechua or Aymara. There is an interesting mix of Catholicism and traditional religious beliefs, including devil worship. Clothing is very colourful, but it is a poor country and many people eke out an existence on the land with their llamas. La Paz is the highest capital in the world and should not be missed. http://www.planeta.com
Canada In the heart of Quebec province
By Katia Theriault
I have spent most of my life in this beautiful Canadian province, and each time I visit a different region, I find new places to admire and new people with which to share things. Of all the interesting places I’ve been to, Montreal remains the jewel of all cities.
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Montreal is an eclectic, cosmopolitan city with a population of about 3 million people. It is well known as a bilingual city, which means you can speak either French or English. Within the city there are many cultural “villages” or areas that are marked with the essence of different countries and cultures.
You can enjoy a little piece of Greece, Brazil, Portugal, Chile, Haiti, Morocco, Tunisia, Vietnam or China without having to leave the city limits. Montreal’s nightlife is amazing. There are many places to go, and it’s easy to get around, thanks to the close proximity of all entertainment areas and the excellent all-night subway, bus, and taxi services. It is possible for anyone to spend the evening at 4 or 5 different places. You should start with areas such as St. Laurent, St. Denis, Ontario, St. Catherine, and Crescent. Whether kind of music you like you will find a venue with the company and atmosphere to suit your taste. However, not all places can be found in these streets and if you have time you might like to explore the depths of Montreal with a few friends to find the greatest lounge hidden between two skyscrapers.
Visitors to Montreal are usually incredibly surprised about how safe they feel both during the day and at night. It is true that Montreal doesn’t have a past history of heavy violence and crime, but neither is it the city of angels. It is very safe for women, but like anywhere else you do not want to put yourself in a situation of danger. You can be wise and still party hard until 4 or 5 am.
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If you desire some peace and tranquillity, Montreal can provide that too. Behind a busy street of shops, cafes and restaurants, you can always find a quiet park where young people are having a picnic, older couples are taking a walk, and the laughter of children fills the air. Parc du Mont-Royal, for example, is only a few minutes walk from the lively St. Denis Street and is located on a hill overlooking the city. Here, on Sundays during the summer, you can listen to open-air drum and tablas performances by professionals and amateurs alike.
Using your own instrument, you can join in if you feel like it. The atmosphere will remind you of the 60’s and the scents floating in the air will make you wonder whether you are truly in Montreal or somewhere in Amsterdam. After a day of intense drumming you can climb up the hill to get a night view of the beautifully illuminated city.
Low budget travellers will be delighted to know that living and travelling in Montreal can be quite cheap. It has plenty of budget hotels, B&Bs, youth hostels, YMCAs, and low-budget restaurants and cafés.
The best time to visit Montreal is in the summer. The majority of the city's special events are scheduled between June and July. No matter how long you visit, there is bound to be at least one festival in progress. The most popular ones are: the Jazz Festival; Just for Laughs Festival; The International Beer Festival; Benson and Hedges Fireworks competition; the African Festival; and Francophiles. The best thing is that most of these festivals offer free, open-air
303 entertainment. If you have some money and time left, do not miss the Botanical Garden, Bio-dome, Insectariums or La Ronde attraction park.
Montreal has rhythm and variety. At any time of the day or night you can find something interesting to do or experience. It is true that from a distance it looks like any typical North American city, but after a closer look you will realise that it is tinted with a touch of exoticism and artistic delirium.
Colombia
By Jeff Carpenter.
Cartagena de Los Indios
Cartagena de los Indios has some of the best colonial Spanish architecture in South America, surrounded by 15 feet-wide walls that served as a defence against Caribbean pirates. During the day, the colonial district bustles with commerce, the people seemingly energized by the brightly painted, multicoloured buildings. At night, a new mood takes over as soft lighting illuminates the walls and buildings. It is quite sublime to walk along the top of the massive walls, with a warm breeze rolling in off the Caribbean Sea on one side and the majestically lit buildings on the other. Strains of music from the salsa clubs, which throw their windows open to the Caribbean and pump out a mesmerizing mix of Latin American rhythms, are just perceptible in the distance.
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Southern Colombia
The south of Colombia provides an opportunity to recuperate from the Cartagena debaucheries, up in the Andes. Lucky people will find their arrival in Popayan coincides with Holy Week, during which the nightly processions are highly religious. No one will be drunk or wearing loincloths and shouting “Washoi!”
Fully uniformed and gun-toting military bands provide all the music in an interesting combination of South America’s two strongest institutions, the Catholic Church and the military. Popayan is interesting by day, with too many art galleries and churches to keep track of. To the east of Popayan are two impressive archaeological sites, Tierradentro and San Augustin. Expect a lengthy ten hours for the 200-km ride from San Augustin to Popayan on the local bus. I got to stand on the back bumper, holding on to a metal rail.
It might be more feasible, although more expensive, to hire a jeep with some others. San Augustin overflows with pre-Incan monolithic stone statues. The well preserved, elaborately arranged stones make Stonehenge look quite dull. Tierradentro is a series of underground tombs, featuring elaborately carved pillars and painted ceilings. From Popayan, luxurious buses will whisk you south to Impales on the Ecuadorian border.
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Ecuador
By Jeff Carpenter
Ecuador is hard to beat, combining variety and safety at a very affordable price. Coming from the south of Colombia the first Andean town of note will be Otavalo. This town’s world-class, hypnotic music and multi-coloured weaving can be found other places, but nowhere as reasonably priced as in Otavalo.
An hour south of Otavalo lies another of South America’s gems, Quito. Surrounded by 19,000 foot-high volcanoes and home to both a quaint colonial district and energetic new town, Quito has something for everyone.
A four day tour to Cuyabeno (organised by any travel agent in Quito for approx. US$300 per person) could include fishing for piranhas, eating lemon ants, seeing fresh water dolphins, crocodiles, snakes, a mind-boggling assortment of plant-life, trees sagging under the weight of hundreds of monkeys…it is a jungle. Do not miss the hot springs at Papallacta, near the pass over the Andes.
The Galapagos
By Jeff Carpenter Two kinds of tours go to the Galapagos. The typical, more luxurious tour booked from outside Ecuador through a travel agency, is a boat tour. Prices for a five to six day tour begin at about US$1100. The second option is a land tour. A six or seven day-tour costs starts 306 at US$700. Both include Quito/Guayaquil-Galapagos return airfare. Book in Ecuador. From the Galapagos, take a bus from Guayaquil to the Peruvian border. Mexico The Yucatan peninsula By Nicola Hopkins The classic Maya lowlands and neighbouring Chiapas states are extremely rich in ruins of various periods. It is more rewarding to select a couple of sites like Chichén Itzá and Palenque, which despite both being Mayan sites, are quite different. Explore them fully rather than trying to see each and every pyramid in the area.
Sites on the Yucatan Peninsula range from Tulum, overlooking the turquoise Caribbean, to the astounding Toltec-influenced Maya ceremonial site of Chichén Itzá, an easily accessible day trip from Cancun and Merida. Highlights of Chichén Itzá are the principal ball court and the main pyramid, known as both El Castillo (The Castle) and as El Templo de Kukulcán (Temple of Queztalcóatl, the plumed serpent). There is little shade or wind at Chichén so take a midday siesta and visit the site early in the morning or in the late afternoon. The Chichén Itzá Archaeological Zone is open from 8am to 5pm. In general, it is not well sign-posted. Rumour has it that this is to better support the guides working inside the zone.
Another principal Mayan site is Palenque in Chiapas state. In complete contrast to Chichén, Palenque is a physically challenging, site full of streams, waterfalls and rich tropical forests. Despite its great importance to the local Mayan tribes, Palenque remained hidden from European explorers until the latter half of the 18th century. Due to the huge scale of the site and its jungle setting, reclaiming the temples and structures has been a tremendous mission. Many of the less central structures remain partially excavated, some with ancient trees growing through them.
If ruins of ancient civilisations are where your interests lie, this region of Mexico is definitely for you.
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Africa
Morocco
By Brett Hetherington
Morocco is a mixture of several cultures. There is a lingering French influence, the bustle of the Arab world, the historical remnants of the Moors, a sprinkling of indigenous Berbers, and the exoticism of Islam.
This country is one of the more broadly progressive, and even somewhat cosmopolitan, Moslem nations (although free speech continues to be repressed). Travellers are unlikely to be harassed by the police, though the attentions of strangers can be a bit much at times (do not be surprised if someone invites you to stay in their home). Most travel books tend to recommend that you hire a guide but in the towns and cities at least, my partner and I did not find it necessary. The language barrier is only significant if you don't understand any French at all. Even if that is the case, there are plenty of English-speaking guides and sometimes they will magically appear once the locals see that you might be interested in spending some money.
In small towns the guides might never mention the thorny issue of cash but instead take you around various shops where you are expected to purchase a few items (like expensive carpets, they hope). In return, the guide gets a financial "kickback" from the owner. In Morocco the "souqs" or "medina" markets are fantastic places to shop 308 or simply people watch and they provide a refreshing change from the sanitized indoor malls we've all become used to. It can often be difficult to find your way around in them. However, getting lost can be half the fun. You can always stop someone and ask him or her to take you to a known landmark (after agreeing a small fee for services rendered, of course. Ballpoint pens seemed to be a welcome reward for school children). The desert
We made our way from Marrakesh to the transport hub of Ouazazte. It is a wonderful journey. Travelling by bus you gradually climb, then plunge down the sharp hairpin bends of the spectacular Atlas Mountains, which are often tipped with snow. Then you suddenly find that you are travelling across flat, dry plains as you approach Ouazazate.
To get from Ouazazate to the most stunning deserts it is necessary to go to the town of Zagora. You can hitch or hire some wheels; fortunately, there are plenty of places to do just that. The five-hour drive to Zagora is never dull: the scenery is gorgeously stark and truly unique. Zagora is the place to hire a guide. When you get to the desert you will definitely need one, given the extreme temperatures that can occur and the potential for getting into difficulties. The local Twareg Berbers—known as the "bluemen" because of their distinctively coloured jelaba gowns—are often the best. Many still live a semi-nomadic lifestyle and they have an excellent understanding of the conditions. As with everything else in Morocco, it is in your interests to haggle with them over the price for their services. 309
We travelled south from Zagora to the tiny village of M'Hamid, close to the desert. This stretch is best done during the late afternoon when the heat is fading and you can take in the amazing “moonscapes” of rubble stones and monolithic mountains of rock, which the locals classify as "hammada" desert. The general absence of people is another startling aspect of this part of the country. You might pass a camel train making its way across the Sahara, or as we did, pass the gory sight of an overturned truck that had flung its cargo of half-dead sheep by the roadside.
The only other reminder of civilisation is the occasional army fort surveying the valleys below from a rocky hill (Algeria is only a few kilometres away and the two countries are currently involved in a border dispute).
From M'Hamid we started with our guides on a three-hour camel trek towards the bigger, more graceful sand dunes. As we rode into the desert we noticed the gradual disappearance of even the scrubbiest bushes. Later, as the evening spread itself against the widest of pink horizons, our shadows grew longer and longer with the dying sun. The stillness of the setting was beautiful; the only sound being that of the camel's hooves shuffling in the sand. Once we reached the Twareg's camp it was already dark and a feast of mutton and vegetable "tajine" stew with couscous (rice-sized semolina pasta) awaited us. Just like any other time of the day or night, mint tea was served. Our hosts also provided us with some live music around the fire. We slept in a tent with our guide and one of the pet dogs. In the
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Sahara you feel like you are surrounded by nothing at all. The purest silence, the barren seas of sand, the stark, clear nights with the stars seeming to be within physical reach: these and other things create the allure of a timeless landscape.
Egypt
Egypt is still a budget traveller’s paradise but make sure you have a good supply of US dollars or Egyptian pounds at border crossings. You can use traveller’s checks and credit cards at banks and big hotels. Cairo has an International airport, but it is also possible to do border crossings by land from Israel, or arrive by ferry from Jordan or Europe. By far the best way to get around Egypt is by train, but buy your tickets in advance.
Summer temperatures can be unbearably hot in the south, and it is very dry. Winters are cooler and provide more favourable conditions for travel, although it is also high season for tourists. Beware of travelling during Ramadan (Feb/March) when many shops, restaurants and government services are closed, or open only in the early morning, or late evening. There is a wealth of history and culture in this ancient nation. Here is an overview of the principal sights: Cairo
Mosque of Muhammak Ali, City of the Dead, Egyptian Museum (do not miss the Tutankhamen Collection), the Pyramids at Ginza and Saqqara. Some old and stepped pyramids outside Saqqara have been re-opened to the public, including the famous “bent pyramid.”
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Alexandria
Cooler and more relaxed than Cairo, remnants of the colonial past are still evident. Very little remains of its ancient ruins, though a visit to the catacombs of Komesh-Shoqafa is recommended. The beaches are very crowded. Luxor
The temples here and at Karnak are well worth visiting. Most people make Luxor their base for visiting the West Bank sites, namely the Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, the Colossi of Memnon, Temple of Hatsheput and the Ramassuem. You can also rent a motorbike, donkey or horse. Aswan
This beautiful, laid-back city, located just in front of the largest dam in Africa, is a good base from which to visit the Temple of Abu Simbel (getting a group and hiring a taxi is the cheapest way). It is also a good starting point for felucca, Egyptian sailing boat trips down the Nile. Do not try this mode of transport if you are in a hurry. The feluccas take six to eight people, so first find a group and do the rounds with the captains to try to get the best deal. Hurghada
The coral reefs here make it popular with scuba divers. Suspect diving centres proliferate, so be careful whom you choose to patronise. Sinai
The Red Sea coast is excellent for snorkelling and scuba diving, and Sinai is much cheaper than nearby Eilat in Israel. Dive shops and courses are concentrated in Sharm-esh-Sheikh and Dahab. Dahab has many camps run by Bedouin villagers catering to tourist’s basic needs. 312
It is also a good point from which to climb Mt. Sinai and visit St. Catherine’s Monastery.
Further information http://touregypt.net Egyptian State Tourist Authority: 630 5th Ave. 1706, New York, NY 10111. E-mail: [email protected]
Ethiopia
By Dominic James
Thinking of its infinite expanses of semi-arid desert, or an emaciated population living hand to mouth? The needless famine of 1985 and its subsequent negative media coverage have a lot to answer for, because the Ethiopia I encountered confounded a lot of my expectations.
Ethiopia has a rich history and a fascinating culture. The Ethiopian calendar is currently eight years behind the western one, and daily time begins at 6 in the morning instead of midnight. The national language, Amharic, is spoken nowhere else. The national dance involves a bizarre shoulder-jerking movement accompanied by what can only be described as a sexual gasping. One of the first things I learned after arriving in Ethiopia was how a war can really inconvenience your travel plans.
Big hopes of visiting the majestic Blue Nile Falls (Bahar Dar), the impressive subterranean rock-hewn churches of Lalibela and the allegedly great buildings of the ancient capital, Gondar, were all
313 scuppered with the sudden flaring up of hostilities on the Eritrean border, and subsequent cancellation of all domestic flights north of the capital, Addis Ababa. There were no trains either, and with a positively asthmatic 30 km/hr-bone-shaking ride, you would not want to bus it. Ethiopia is a big country! I flew one-hour south from Addis Ababa to the small town of Tum in search of some of the rural tribal life. As I went further south, I saw scenic hills and forests resplendent in green livery, occasionally dotted with the circular tepee-style thatched roof of a basic hut. On arrival, I took off with a local guide to see the Majinga Tribespeople. It was a truly fascinating experience, as one fear that tribal Africa may soon die out.
Apart from the historical tour, that I was thwarted from taking in the north, there really is no fixed pattern for seeing Ethiopia. Tourist information is extremely limited, even if you do want to follow the distinctly small sightseeing crowd. If you are a traveller who enjoys just making it up as you go along, Ethiopia is definitely the place for you!
Kenya
By Dominic James
The busy streets of Nairobi are visually compelling. Customised matatus (about-town minibuses) pull suddenly out of side streets, spewing black smoke and loud rap music into the city air. Middle-aged women sit on pavements vending small pyramids of ripe passion fruit. Teenage street kids walk with a dazed look in their eyes from sniffing too much glue. Smartly dressed businessmen cut a sharp contrast 314 with their neatly pressed suits. Nairobi life is exciting, organised chaos, and I love it.
Variety beckons outside Nairobi too. Take a week-long safari trip to the Masai Mara National Park and Lakes Baringo and Nakuru for a wonderfully preserved “Jurassic Park” feel of wildlife as it used to be. Enjoy ripe tropical fruit, freshly caught seafood, and cold Tusker beer on Mombasa’s sun-drenched coast, and accost your ears with the cacophony of sounds of the virginal Kakamega Rainforest.
Yet it is the people who will stay in your memory. There was the impoverished hospital worker who insisted on buying me (the rich westerner, capable of spending the equivalent of a month’s nurse’s wage in a day) a beer. Or, the former Mau Maus, who had fought for freedom in the 1950s against my country’s colonial rule, welcomed me into their pool tournament. The immense kindness and friendliness of these people—giving so much of what little they had—never ceased to amaze me. Safari
Kenya thrives on the safari market. Indeed, a safari is one of the best ways to see the landscape, animals and people of the countryside. Touts line the streets of most cities and will offer you “African price” (the price the locals pay) because of a “friend” or “relative” inside the company. Most of these are simply small deals that do not qualify as a con because they are selling actual safaris with actual companies. Nearly all of the safari operators—except Abercrombie and Kent, the most expensive in town—use touts, and it is an acceptable means of getting business. There is a huge range of tour operators, not all of 315 who are extortionate, so shop around. One of the most eco-friendly but expensive ways of seeing all the game is by balloon.
Further information
Balloon Safaris, Adventures Aloft. Eagle House, Kimathi St., PO Box 40683, Nairobi. Tel: (2) 220-592 Cave Exploration Group of East Africa, PO Box 47583, Nairobi.
South Africa
By Neil Mcdonough
To appreciate just why Cape Town is considered one of the most beautiful cities in the world, venture up Table Mountain that dominates the city’s skyline. Then rappel back down with Abseil Africa for 2000 Rand. It is the longest commercial abseil in the world and provides an even better view when dangling at 120m. Cape Town also offers meat-lovers a veritable cornucopia of delights, in large size portions. Mama Africa in Long Street is particularly popular.
You can take a coach with Translux to Pretoria via Johannesburg. It takes 18 hours (350 Rand). Pretoria has a very different atmosphere from multicultural Cape Town. It is hard to imagine the previous apartheid troubles in Cape Town; however, for safety’s sake, taxis are recommended for late night travel in Pretoria. A cheap backpacker’s dorm costs around 35 Rand. A safari in Kruger Park with Bundu Bus costs around ･20,000 for four days and three nights including guide, transport, accommodation (2 nights in tents, 1 in the
316 private game reserve), and all the food you can eat. You can book tours from hostels in Cape Town.
In Southern Africa the famous “Big Five” (the lion, leopard, buffalo, rhino and elephant—renowned as the hardest to kill) are difficult to find given their declining numbers and superb camouflage. However, with patience and luck you can see the Big Five, species of antelope, warthogs, honey badgers, jackals and the entire cast of the Lion King. Remember, all prices are fixed and non-negotiable http://www.mg.co.za/mg
Southeast Asia
Cambodia
By Jenn Smith
It is only in the past few years that Cambodia has become a viable destination for travellers. Even now, there are only certain areas that are safe to visit, as there is a real threat from landmines all over the country. It is a difficult country to travel in but Cambodia is well worth the trouble.
Cambodia’s charms are its friendly people, wealth of both ancient and modern historical sites, and its beautiful natural setting. All of these were scarred by the violent events of the latter half of the 20th century. Relative peace has descended on the country since the death of Pol Pot in 1998, and the old scars are slowly healing. Cambodia is still fragile and, as with any destination, you should
317 check with your country’s embassy before travelling there for up-to-date information. The two places you must see on your visit to Cambodia are Angkor Wat and Phnom Penh. Phnom Penh is the capital and has a mix of classical Khmer architecture, as seen in the Royal Palace and Silver Pagoda, and more recent French colonial architecture. The Silver Pagoda has tonnes of silver, and features two 17th-century Buddhas. One is made of Baccarat crystal; the other is made of gold and almost 10,000 diamonds. The city is located at the meeting point of three rivers, the Mekong, Tonle Sap and Bassac. If you can find a reliable and knowledgeable guide, going up the Mekong is a beautiful and unforgettable experience.
Near Phnom Penh are two of the most horrific sites in history. One cannot experience the beauty of Cambodia without going to Tuol Sleng and Cheoung Ek, in an attempt to understand the horrors suffered by the Cambodian people. Tuol Sleng is the Genocide museum, which was built as a schoolhouse but soon became a prison and torture area. Cheoung Ek is better known to the west as the Killing Fields.
Angkor Wat, built in the 12th century, is located to the north of Phnom Penh. It is an ancient complex, and was thought to be mythical until a French naturalist stumbled upon it in 1861. It is the largest religious monument ever constructed, and consists of 5 towers and a moat. Also in the area is the ancient capital of Angkor Thom, which features a Buddhist temple called Bayon that exhibits many aspects of Hindu architecture.
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You will almost certainly meet numerous monks while you are here, but women should be careful to stay at least one foot away at all times. The nearest modern city, Siem Reap, has some excellent accommodation as well as beautiful views of the Great Lake, Tonle Sap. Fly to Siem Reap, or take the hydrofoil, as regular boats are too dangerous. Also watch out if you are off the beaten track around here, as this was a very popular place to plant landmines.
Further information http://www.cambodia-web.net Cambodian government website. http://www.cambodia.org Cambodian Information Center http://www.embassy.org/cambodia Embassy in Washington D.C.
Indonesia
By Henrietta Preiss, Neil Mcdonough and Peter Greenburger. This archipelago, made up of over 13,700 islands is home to many indigenous tribes, near-extinct wildlife, primary rainforests and a wealth of different languages and cultures. There is something for everyone. Indonesia’s geography comprises white, sandy beaches, lush jungle, active volcanoes, mountains and, of course, towns and resorts.
You need months to explore Indonesia fully. Most travellers only have time to visit the islands of Sumatra, Java and Bali. Each and every island has its own distinct character, and there are still vast areas of Indonesia that lie unexplored. Remember that malaria is rife in most of Indonesia, especially on Iran Jaya in the East. With the exception of the tourist-ridden streets of Kuta in Bali, the most noticeable thing about Indonesia is the people’s kindness and hospitality.
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Bali Bali, long billed as a tropical paradise, has been largely ruined by mass-tourism in the past decade. Kuta is the main traveller’s hole, but be warned: the beach and streets are filthy, the atmosphere is decidedly unfriendly, and crime and violence are common. If you are a labels-addict or a party animal, you will love it. There is a lively, “beery” nightlife and an abundance of designer surf gear shops. If you are into surfing, however, avoid Kuta; the sea is cleaner and the surf is better at Nusa Dua, just down the road. In the centre of Bali is the little town of Ubud—a quiet escape from hedonistic Kuta. It is the cultural heart of Bali, where everyone is friendly and the general atmosphere is more relaxed. Take a day or two to wander around the markets and the quaint shops selling all kinds of local and traditional Balinese artefacts.
There are nightly Balinese dance performances, which are worth watching. By far, the most rewarding way to see the island is by renting a car with some friends. It is very cheap and you can bargain it down. You can get to places previously untouched by the tourist trail and get to know the real Bali, meeting and spending time with the locals. Bali is diverse and beautiful. You can drive from Lovina’s black volcanic beaches in the north (from where you can take a boat at dawn to see the dolphins) to Tirtagangga. From here, follow the coastal road, taking in the rugged seascapes and gradually heading inland, as the road snakes its way through valleys of lush, luminous, green terraced rice paddies. Tirtagangga, in the middle of wide-open paddies stretching down to the sea, is probably the most tranquil place you will find on Bali. Lombok “This is how Bali used to be,” said a local on Senggigi Beach. Lombok is heaven compared to its neighbour. It is about four hours by ferry from Padangbai on Bali to Mataram on Lombok. The island is quieter and less tourist-trampled. The beaches, notably (and coincidentally) Kuta Beach, are the kind you have dreamed of—endless stretches of hot white sand teased by the gentle turquoise waves of the Indian Ocean.
Many climbers go to Lombok to hike up Gunung Rinjani to see its large green lake and various hot springs. Take a little boat from Senggigi out to the Gili Islands, off Lombok’s northwest coast, for a real touch of desert island life. Gili Trawangan is the most developed 320 of this trio of tiny, almost unspoiled islands, where transport is by horse-drawn buggy, bike or foot. Gili Meno and Gili Air are sparsely populated but have some accommodation.
Diving and snorkelling to see turtles are the order of the day here. The islands are changing fast and hotels are on their way, so go soon to savour their laid-back tranquility. Be careful of the buggy drivers. We were scammed and almost attacked.
Due to violence against Christians, travel to Lombok is pretty risky at the moment. Check with your country’s embassy for the most recent warnings. Flores
Flores is one of the most beautiful of the Indonesian islands. It was a Portuguese colony before being sold to the Dutch; about 95% of the population is Catholic and the island is dotted with churches. The Komodo dragons and the three multicoloured volcanic lakes of Mount Keli Mutu tempt many travellers to make the long journey by boat over to Komodo and Flores. Komodo is a dry and desolate island close to Flores. Banu Nggulung is the best place to see the 4metre long lizards. Sumatra
Sumatra is many traveller’s favourite Indonesian island, because it is so diverse in its blend of cultures and astonishing array of flora and fauna.I went to Bukit Lawang, a great place deep in the jungle of North Sumatra. It is an orang-utan sanctuary and is surrounded by jungle. It is really hot and really wet, so be prepared with some light, cotton, easy-to-dry clothes. Waterproofs will just make you sweat.
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All the hostels are on the banks of a fast running river that you can go down in rubber inner tubes that you can hire for very little. Do a hike if you can—the terrain is mountainous in places, and it can be hard work trekking through some very thick, hot rainforest.
I then went to Lake Toba, created by a volcanic crater. It is the largest such thing in the world, so big that the island created in the middle of the lake by the last eruption is the size of Singapore. Java
The most populated and developed island, Java is an island of contrasts, comprising big cities and the squalor that comes with them, but at the same time, live volcanoes, lots of history and beautiful scenery. Yogyakarta
I did not know until I touched down that Yogyakarta is a historical and cultural treasure. It has two important historic temples, Prambanan and Borobudur—the latter is often compared to Angkor Wat in Cambodia. There are two narrow parallel alleyways filled with guesthouses, food and travel shops. Jakarta
I was told by many not to go to Jakarta, rumoured to be boring, noisy, dirty and dangerous. However, I thought Jakarta was great fun. It was not as dangerous as people suggested. Jalan Sabang, littered with satay vendors, is reputed to be the best in the world. I cannot disagree. I saw the gross but majestic monuments erected by Suharto and the ships in the old harbour. I also went to Chinatown, where I
322 saw some burned-out buildings from riots. Indonesia is an amazing place and I urge all to take their time there.
Laos
By Antony Giblin
In Luang Prabang, there is the aroma of freshly brewed ground coffee, the taste of just-baked baguettes and the rustic ambience of decaying provincial buildings. Further along the street, exquisite gold-roofed temples, palm fringed courtyards and saffron-robed novice monks can be seen sauntering down the dusty road under the musky warmth of a late afternoon Asian sun. Luang Prabang, ancient capital of Laos, rests idyllically on the banks of the Mekong River surrounded by mountains and is arguably the finest example of the exotic colonial and Asian mélange that once existed throughout this intriguing corner of the world. For this reason, it remains one of the highlights of any trip to Southeast Asia.
Yet the great thing about Laos as a travel destination is that many of the traits that make Luang Prabang so special—a French colonial atmosphere, wonderful people, and a picturesque setting—can be found throughout the entire country. From the laid-back dilapidated capital, Vientianne, to the eerie ambience of the Champasak Angkor-era temple ruins, the mysterious “Plain of Jars,” the wonder of the Mekong, and colourfully clad tribal peoples, Laos offers a diversity of travel and sightseeing experiences unmatched in the region. It is also one of the cheapest countries in the world to 323 travel, and has not, as yet, suffered the effects of mass tourism so acutely felt by its neighbours, Thailand and Vietnam.
A suggested itinerary for those with around three weeks to spend in Laos might begin with a border crossing at Huay Xai, from Northeast Thailand and a detour to the Chinese border to see indigenous hill-tribes, before taking an over-night, slow-boat trip down the Mekong to Luang Prabang. After a week exploring Luang Prabang, river caves and the Plain of Jars, many people choose to take the Route 13 bus to Vientianne and then wind their way down the tail of the country to the spectacular Don Khong Mekong River archipelago and the Champasak temple ruins. Re-entry into Thailand is possible at Chong Mek.
Travel in Laos is by bus, riverboat (if waters are high enough), or, for the truly adventurous, by the state owned Lao Aviation. As Laos is still emerging from decades of relative international isolation, its infrastructure for handling tourism is still developing. If you are thinking of going to this wonderful country, you will need lots of patience, a tolerance for cold showers, highly developed sign-language skills and the latest edition of the Lonely Planet!
Malaysia
By Rainer Mehl
Malaysia consists of the peninsula south of Thailand, and Sabah and Sarawak, two states on the island of Borneo. The latter offer many opportunities for jungle treks and visits to long house cultures
324 that have recently given up their nomadic lifestyle, due to accelerated logging. The Peninsula has a lot of colonial history and a rich racial mixture. Like the people, the food comes from all parts of the world with Indian and ‘straits’ Chinese being the largest non-Malay influence.
Georgetown or Penang is an island on the north west coast; it has great colonial-era architecture and is a true melting pot of cultures. It's one of my favourite cities in Asia. There is great street vendor food to be had and also many banana-leaf curry restaurants, where US$2 will buy you an all-you-can-eat vegetarian curry served on a large leaf. In the centre of town you can find places of worship for more than five religions. Overlooking the town there is a high plateau reached by funicular railway. Here it is always 5 to 10 degrees cooler than the rest of the city and it's a good place to go for a walk or enjoy a scenic lunch.
The capital, Kuala Lumpur, has become a high-tech city. It has some massive buildings, including the Petronas Towers, the world's tallest building. Yet it also has a lot of buildings of historical interest and many of these can be found around the Merdeka Square area.
In the south, Melaka has had Portuguese, Dutch and English colonial masters, and you can see these influences in this small city's architecture. The most interesting parts of Melaka are near the town hall (built under the Dutch) and around the river. Melaka has many museums and nice relaxed shopping too (especially during the week
325 when people from neighbouring Singapore are not clogging up the malls).
The east coast has nice beaches, but is also the most conservatively Muslim area, with many ‘dry’ towns, and the nearest beer days away. In the centre of the country are great hill stations like the Cameron Highlands, and there are many opportunities for good treks and visits to tea plantations and butterfly farms. If you have a longing to pet a scorpion, this is the place for you! Taman Negara National Park has 4343sq km of jungle, where you can go trekking and there are Hides and Salt Licks where you can spend the night and look for wildlife such as tapir, tigers and rhinoceros.
If you go to a hide be careful about transportation; I got stuck on a dock for several hours because my “ride” did not come. There is also a canopy walkway, high up in the trees, with some great views (and monkeys if you are lucky). One of my favourite activities was spending four hours drifting down the river in an inner tube, watching out for monkeys and lizards on the shore.
Practicalities English is spoken widely in Malaysia, and transport and accommodation can be easily arranged. Malaysia is a bit more expensive than some other countries in the region, such as Thailand and Indonesia, but you can still live for under US$20 a day. Small restaurants pop up at sundown, often taking over whole stretches of street, and they are usually some of the best and most affordable places to eat. How to get around Bus service on the Peninsula is good, modern and reliable, there is some train service, but it is not nearly as convenient. Another
326 popular mode of transport is long distance/shared taxis that have various rates based on size of group, type of car, and time of day you are travelling. This is where a good guidebook will help in negotiating prices. In cities local buses are cheap and frequent, and both motorcycle and standard taxis are common. If you don’t see a meter, negotiate a price first and be ready to bargain. To get to Taman Nagara, you can take longboats up the river, which are also a popular form of transport in Sabah and Sarawak (on Borneo). To move between Borneo and the mainland, you have a choice of boat or plane. Scams and other problems Malaysia overall is quite safe, with relatively strict penalties for crime. None the less, in Taman Negara, have someone take care of your things if you go into the jungle overnight, and be aware of boat pick up-times, as it is easy to be stranded on some boat dock at the edge of the jungle. Another thing to look out for is a private individual posing as a taxi driver. At times this can work out well and be much cheaper than taking an official taxi, but at others you might find yourself—as we did—helping to push the taxi up a hill in the middle of the night, with your belongings on board ... let me tell you, it makes you think twice about the “bargain” price you negotiated. The only other hassle is that people are likely to tell you what you want to hear, as long as they can make a sale. Double check information, as the truth is liberally applied to such things as arrival points and times of buses and boats, leaving you stranded in the most unlikely places! Visa requirements Visitors will receive at least a 30-day visa upon entry, but actual length depends on your nationality. Israeli Nationals need Diplomatic approval—check before you go! Sabah and Sarawak have special permits, but follow much of the same rules. http://www.takara.bc.ca/pages/IT.html Photos
Myanmar (Burma)
By Jenn Smith
In Myanmar, human rights abuses are widespread, and the BBC has called it “one vast labour camp.” Tourist dollars are actively courted, but they go into the hands of an oppressive government. One of the world’s modern heroes, pro-democracy activist Aung San 327
Suu Kyi, head of Myanmar’s major opposition party, is still under house arrest in Yangon.
She has asked travellers to refrain from visiting until a legitimate government is in power. But, if you do decide to go, start in Yangon (Rangoon), the capital. The Shwedagaon Pagoda as the best-known tourist site in Myanmar deserves its reputation. On your way north to the Royal Palace in Mandalay stop at Bagan. Bagan is an 11th century city containing two thousand pagodas that rival Angkor Wat in Cambodia.
You will be required to change $300 US into the local currency, but you are forbidden to remove any Burmese currency. Spend your money on the people of Myanmar, not on their oppressors. So, you could go on a government-approved tour, and stay at luxury hotels that put money into the government’s coffers. Or, you could try to help the people by staying in family-run guesthouses, using local transportation, and buying only from the locals. Sometimes journalists and activists disappear, or find some of Myanmar’s opium in their luggage. Tourists complain about being harassed by government bureaucrats. It may be the government you have most to fear. Check the latest warnings before you arrive.
Further information
Burma Action Group, Collins Studios, Collins Yard, Islington Green London N1 2XU Tel (71) 359-7679 Open Society Institute, 400 W. 59th Street, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10019 Tel: (212) 548-0632 Website: http://www.soros.org/burma
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The Philippines By Jenn Smith The Philippines, with over 7000 islands to choose from, offers something for everyone. You can volunteer, sunbathe, party, hike, shop, scuba dive, take in the amazing blend of Spanish, Chinese and Indigenous cultures; and just about anything else one might like to do on vacation. Almost everyone speaks English, and almost all signs are in English too.
As a starting point, Manila is a must. The main international airport is here; so most travellers from Japan will land in Manila. Two budget hotels with great reputations are Adriatic Arms and Malate Pension. You will probably stay in the Malate area, which is where most of the hotels, restaurants and money exchanges congregate. While you are in the area, check out Hobbit House. This is a fantastic restaurant with good food (mostly American style), great service and perhaps the best live gigs in Southeast Asia. Also in the area is Robinson’s Place. For those of you who have been in Japan’s inaka for quite some time, this will give you reverse culture shock. It is the spitting image of a North American suburban mall, right down to the mall rats. Malate is only a jeepney ride away from Intramuros, the old walled city of Manila, dating back to the time of Spanish conquest.
Jeepneys are one of the most interesting things in the Philippines. For approximately 3 pesos a kilometre, you can squeeze into the back of a colourful, intricately decorated converted jeep with the dashboard covered in Catholic trappings (rosaries, statues of the Virgin Mary and Jesus, passages from the Bible, etc.). Check the destination on the window of the jeepney, hop on, pass your money up to the driver through the other passengers, and hold on for dear life.
From Manila, decide which direction to take. If you are going north on Luzon Island, head to Baguio city. From there you can take a bus to any destination on Luzon. The famous Banaue Rice Terraces, reputed to be the eighth wonder of the world, are about 8 hours away by bus from Baguio. Near Banaue is the small town of Sagada, whose two claims to fame are its caves and hanging coffins. It is quite a hike, but an adventure not to be missed!
Surfers take note: San Fernando in La Union province (not to be confused with all the other San Fernandos) is earning a reputation for excellent surfing. The best place to start is at La Union Surf Resort, just a few minutes from San Fernando city by jeepney. Also, La Union Surf Resort offers some of the best-guided hiking tours in Southeast Asia. They have a great website. http://www.sflu.com/surf 329
If you are headed west from Manila, to Palawan or Boracay, you will need to take a plane or ferry. Boracay was once home to some of the most beautiful beaches in the Philippines, but it is quickly becoming commercialised. Palawan is still as close to unspoilt paradise as most people can get. The capital, Puerto Princessa, is where the best lodging is to be found, but explore the rural areas for stunning tropical flora and fauna.
South from Manila, via bus and ferry, is Mindoro Island. Puerto Galera, at the northern tip of Mindoro, is a scuba diver’s paradise. One of the most inexpensive places to get your PADI certification is in the Philippines, and Puerto Galera is a favourite spot of many JETs. Asian Divers on Small La Laguna Beach has first-rate instructors who speak a variety of languages and come highly recommended. You can e-mail them at http://[email protected].
The nightlife in Puerto Galera does not get any better than The Point Shooter Bar, located just above Asia Divers. Their motto is “Your body is an evil thing. It needs to be punished, so get to The Point!” They have many drinks that will punish your body, but you will have such a good time you won’t realise you are being punished until the next morning. The food in the Philippines is a treat to the senses, and there are plenty of Filipino restaurants in the Puerto Galera area to keep your strength up for diving.
There are literally hundreds of other destinations in the Philippines. Keep in mind that there have been problems lately with
330 tourists being kidnapped by rebels in the south. Check your country’s embassy for travel warnings before you go, and keep away from trouble spots.
Singapore
By Iain Drummond
Singapore is an ideal destination for a long-weekend break from Japan. It is a nice, compact place to walk around. It is possible to see just about all the sights in a four or five day period. In Singapore, ultra-modern skyscrapers tower above immaculate colonial era buildings and mosques rub shoulders with Hindu and Buddhist temples. There are also massive shopping malls, loads of restaurants, and a good mix of other attractions.
The most famous building in Singapore is the Raffles Hotel, named after Sir Stamford Raffles, the British founder of Singapore. As well as being the place where the Singapore Sling was invented, the hotel was name-checked in the work of a number of writers (and former guests) such as Somerset Maugham. Raffles is an incredibly expensive place to stay but non-guests can still sample a Singapore Sling in one of the hotel's bars. I had my Singapore Sling in the Long Bar, where there is no dress code.
Although the drink was overpriced at S$20, the surroundings (and the Singapore Sling) were nice. Elsewhere in Singapore, two statues have been erected in honour of Sir Stamford Raffles. One stands in the Padang area—home to the best of the country's
331 colonial-era buildings—while the other can be found next to the Singapore River, marking the site where Raffles first arrived in Singapore. Another well-known Singapore statue is the Merlion beside the Anderson Bridge. Water shoots out of the mouth of this white half-lion/half-fish.
One of the reasons why Singapore is an interesting place is because it has a diverse population. The population is a mixture of Chinese (the majority at around 75%), Indian, Malay and, well, various others from across the globe. When Singapore was first settled the different races were allocated their own areas. Two of the must-see areas—though it would be hard to miss them—are Chinatown and Little India.
A great deal of restoration work has gone on in Chinatown in recent years. I enjoyed just strolling around its streets. Chinatown's two-story buildings with their colourfully painted shutters made a pleasant change from the ubiquitous skyscrapers. The area, in addition to containing shops, restaurants, and a number of Buddhist temples, also has a 150 year-old Hindu temple, the Sri Mariammam. The tower above the temple's entrance has exquisitely carved and painted Hindu figures and is an amazing sight. The renovators and restorers have also been at work in Little India. There are temples, markets, and narrow lanes selling all things Indian. For both Chinatown and Little India I followed the Lonely Planet's suggested walking routes and found them to be very good. Singapore's most popular tourist attraction is Sentosa. To enjoy all that it has to offer you really need to spend a whole day there.
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Sentosa tends to be described as a “fun park” but I thought that that was a slight misnomer because many of its attractions—such as the Images of Singapore museum and Fort Siloso—are rather cerebral. That said, it does also have a water park, a man-made beach, an aquarium, and “spectacular” light show (which began to pall pretty quickly). You can get to and from Sentosa by bus, ferry, or cable car. The cable car offers great views, particularly at night.
If you're interested in history you might enjoy a visit to Changi prison museum. Changi was where the Japanese interred allied prisoners of war during World War Two. The museum tells how the war impacted upon Singapore and of the appalling treatment of the POWs and of ordinary Singaporeans. The story was told in an interesting way, using many first-hand oral sources and prisoners' letters. It takes about 45 minutes by bus to get to the museum, located almost next door to modern-day Changi prison.
Singapore seems to have earned a good reputation as a place for shopping and eating. Yet while there were certainly lots of gigantic malls and all the shops you could ever want, the prices did not seem to be that much cheaper than Japan. I can have no complaints about the food though. You can get all the different types of Chinese food (Hunanese, Hainanese and so on), Indian, Malay, and everything else besides. I tried eating at the Hawker centres—open-air food courts—and found them to be cheap and delicious.
As for getting around, that is fairly easy in Singapore. The subway (MRT - Mass Transit System) is spotlessly clean and efficient;
333 buses are regular and cheap and they go everywhere. There is also a Singapore Airlines bus that does a circuit of all the tourist spots. If you are flying with Singapore Airlines the bus costs S$3; if not, it is S$6. Happily, it doesn't matter when you visit Singapore because the weather stays much the same throughout the year (hot and humid but tolerable). It may not be the cheapest or the most naturally beautiful country in Asia but this often overlooked destination still has a lot to offer.
Thailand
By Rainer Mehl
Thailand is a favourite among JETs, this is no wonder considering the many islands, great diving, good food and other activities. I headed to northern Thailand to Chiang Mai, from where you can do treks into the mountains to visit hill tribes in the “Golden Triangle.” On my trek, I rode an elephant, took a bamboo raft down a river, stayed with a local family in the jungle and ate great food prepared by our guide.
This is quite standard fare and you can do everything from an easy one or two days to several weeks of trekking. Bangkok is the best party town anywhere to some, a cesspool to others, but the cheap shopping and sheer number of sights make it an easy place to stay for while. The main backpacker's street is legendary and you can find everything from fleabag rooms and transport scams to great travel bargains and fabulous food. You can also buy any type of copied product you can imagine.
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To the south are many beaches and islands, some of which are famous for their raves and parties (Pha Ngan, for example), some for their “sun, sand and sin” (Phuket) others for their high class, yet affordable restaurants and hotels (Samui) and others again for their diving (Tao). I loved Tao, even if the dive boats are getting more numerous every year. The diving is still good and the relaxed atmosphere and good restaurants make the island a great place to stay. There are a great many destinations within Thailand and much depends on your reason for going and the time of year you decide to travel, as weather patterns change from coast to coast. Food is outstanding, spicy and generally very fresh and inexpensive. There is a seedy underbelly to the country with paedophilic tourism, prostitution and AIDS all major problems. The recent financial crisis has not helped matters either, with more and more people desperate to make a living any way they can. Thailand remains a place where you can travel cheaply, but also can get good value for your money if you spend a bit more. Here more than any other place I have been you get what you pay for. In Bangkok it is possible to get a “room” for US$2 a night, but this might only have a thin sheet of plywood as a wall and a cold shower down the hall. Down the same street there will be air con rooms with hot showers for US$10. Street vendors make some of the cheapest and best food, but again nice restaurants also abound. How to get around
Good state-run buses go almost everywhere, are affordable, have air-con and many night services. Domestic flights are not too expensive, and the train is also an option, though at times it requires reservations. The tourist services leaving Kao San Road area of 335
Bangkok are often not too reliable, and at times leave you stranded, though this situation seems to be improving. In town there are tuk-tuks, mopeds with sidecars, where you should negotiate a price before getting inside. Motorcycle taxis are also popular in Bangkok, as traffic is a nightmare. Many boat services operate between the islands, and there are agents in all the ports, who will also have mini-bus service to many destinations. Scams and other problems
Do not buy gems to make profit, or enter into a deal to “lose” your traveller’s cheques. In Bangkok, beware of the theft that occurs in the ill-secured rooms of many hotels, and on crowded buses look out for pickpockets. As mentioned above, some bus services from the Kao San Road area will leave you stranded, or a “free room” that was promised will cost you a “cleaning” charge. We once took a bus, were dropped off at 4am in the middle of nowhere and then had to fend of taxi drivers who tried to tell us that we had been stranded, when in fact the “connection” we had been promised came around at 7am. Finally, drugs are available quite freely, especially in the mountains and at parties, but there is still a death penalty for possession of larger amounts, and even a shorter stay in a Thai prison is not something you would want to endure. Suggested trips
In one week you can either head to Chiang Mai for trekking, or to one of the many islands for some rest and relaxation. In two weeks you can either try to do both, or do one or the other more intensely. In three weeks it is possible to see a fair bit of the country, but I have
336 met people who have gone to one or another of the islands for a 3 day stay and were still there two years later. Visa requirements
Most nationalities will receive a visa upon entry, and this can be extended or renewed by re-entry at any border. http:// www.takara.bc.ca/pages/IT.html photos
Vietnam
By Rainer Mehl
In the last few years Vietnam has seen a great increase in tourism, and for good reason. From Hanoi in the north to Ho Chi Minh (Saigon) in the south, there is much to see.
In the north, the centre for discovering the hill tribes is Sapa, close to the Chinese Border. I loved the little old ladies who will bargain you into the ground over every piece of fabric they sell you. Also in this region—and within easy reach of Hanoi—is HaLongBay. After a bus trip to the coast you take a ship into a vast area of amazing limestone cliffs that jut out of the ocean. I saw jellyfish the size of small lifeboats!
You can take cheap tours around here lasting a few days and luxury cruises are also available. South of Hanoi is the Perfume Pagoda, a grotto at the top of a large hill, which is reached after a boat ride and hike. The boat is a paddleboat and with eight people on board you float serenely through the countryside. When I did the hike I was lucky as I saw some dancing being performed at a temple at the base of the hill. 337
In Hanoi, you can visit the mausoleum of Ho Chi Minh. He looks like he passed away just a few days ago. You have to leave your camera at a checkpoint, walk in a group (at least you are not expected to parade march like the locals), and maintain a solemn appearance. In the mausoleum you are not allowed to stand still. In the centre of the country there is old DMZ and all the war sites, but also the former capital, Hue, which has many UNESCO protected sites, including the Graves of the Vietnamese Emperors.
A bit further south is HoiAn, an old trade centre that has rediscovered itself as a place for tourists to have custom tailored clothes made cheap. It also offers beaches and easy access to old Khmer sites related to Ankor Wat in Cambodia. Closer to Saigon is Dalat, the old French hill station and Vietnamese honeymoon capital. If you thought Japan was cheesy in places wait till you see this! It takes kitsch to a whole new level.
The Mekong River Delta is south from here and you can explore it by bus and boat tours from Saigon. Whenever I come here, I cannot stop taking pictures of the floating houses and markets, fish farms, minority villages and enthusiastic kids who live here and wave at every boatload of tourists. Saigon itself is a bit Tokyo, a bit old Paris and a whole lot Asia, an interesting mix.
Food is also a mix of Asian and European, with both mini baguettes (Banh Mi) and noodle soup (Pho) available from street vendors everywhere. People are extremely industrious and quite open
338 to tourists, and there appeared to be no lingering hard feelings over the war. Due to the overall low cost and mix of Asian, European and American culture, Saigon has plenty of restaurants. The standard of food was often excellent and prices were very reasonable. It is possible to live on US$10 a day or less in Vietnam, with guesthouses offering beds from $3. If you spend a bit more you can quickly get air-con and satellite TV. (I have stayed for $10 and had all the modern conditions and breakfast as well ... but I had to walk up 5 flights of stairs.)
Transport is quite cheap, though foreigners pay up to seven times the price of locals, as the government mandates this. The tourist bus that connects Saigon to Hanoi cost $25 for the whole trip, and you can interrupt as often as you like! Domestic Flights are also well priced. How to get around
Much travel is done by tour or at least by tourist bus. Hotels, cafés and restaurants are often also tour operators and travel agents. This makes travelling easy, as they can also arrange for train and bus tickets. Favourites are the bus from Saigon to Hanoi, and mini tours by bus, boat, jeep, and train or combination thereof, lasting from 1 to 5 days and going to almost all sights in the country. Tours often include hotel as well as all transport, and a 3-day tour will cost about $45. Local transport is either by cyclo, the romantic but slow bicycle rickshaws, or by moped taxi, where you sit behind the driver and hang on for dear life. In the larger towns metered taxis are starting to replace the older modes of transport, and you can also hire your own moped for about $7 a day.
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Scams and other problems
When taking cyclos or mopeds, negotiate a price before you get in/on and stick to it, even if the driver pulls over and wants more. Also, hang on to your bags as traffic is tight and bags get snatched. Robbery and theft are not a real danger, though they are not unheard of. The most common practice is for “guides” to take you to shops, restaurants and hotels of their own choosing, where they will get a commission for doing so. Suggested trips
If you only have one week you should make a choice between the south and the north, and explore the areas outside of the respective capitals. In two weeks you could do both ends of the country, by flying between Hanoi and Saigon. In three weeks you can travel the length of the country, and make short stops along the way. My personal favourites are HoiAn and the Mekong Delta. Visa requirements
A visa is required, and a 30-day tourist version costs about US$100 for most nationalities. It has to be applied for in advance. http://www.takara.bc.ca/pages/IT.html
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Eastern Asia
China From the empire of the sun to the middle kingdom
By Will Jasprizza Getting there
After my three-year tour of duty on JET, I set off to visit the Middle Kingdom. I entered China via Hong Kong where I arranged my flight and obtained a 3-month visa. I used Four Seasons Travel (Room 102-103 Commercial House, 35 Queen's Road, Central, Hong Kong TEL 25239147, 28680622 FAX 25265401). First impressions
There were people everywhere day and night. After 3 years in a small town in Ehime, I was confronted by a mass of life. During the day people bustled to school and work, street vendors plied their trade and bicycles zipped between all manner of vehicles, ancient and modern. Come evening and the streets were filled with people playing cards, walking, kicking balls, drinking at cafes or just shooting the breeze. No one bows. I was still in Japan-mode and often did the involuntary nod but it was never returned. There was no overt politeness, not that people were not polite. The best thing was that I no longer felt like a gaijin.
The smell of capitalism hung in the air. China has changed enormously, particularly in the last few years, and it seemed to be anything but communist. People sold goods on blankets in the streets
341 and the latest bootleg DVD's and CD's were hustled on every corner and even in supermarkets. Foreigners no longer have to use a special currency (FEC - Currency); you use renminbi (people’s money) just like the rest of the country. I used an ATM at the plush Swiss hotel to draw on funds on my Australian account, and changed yen with few problems. Accommodation
I was lucky that whilst in Beijing I stayed in a flat—a real Chinese flat—courtesy of a Chinese friend. I was told that technically this was not allowed but that a blind eye was turned to the practice, as so many foreigners inhabited Beijing. Three rooms and a toilet/shower that really was a toilet/shower: the squat toilet was in the middle of the shower floor. No TV, no phone but thankfully an air conditioner. Not as humid as Japan, but still damn hot. In the mornings people practised tai chi in the communal garden, and in the evenings, played endless games of majong. Food
Prepare to feast! Food was ridiculously cheap and plentiful, but only at the local restaurants. At Starbucks, a coffee would set you back 25 yuan when for the same price in a local shop you could get a plate of rice, a meat dish and a huge plate of vegetables. Those who became alcoholic whilst in Japan will like China—a bottle of Tsing Tao beer from a shop costs only 3 yuan.
The varieties of food overwhelmed me. I got the impression that after the rigours of the Great Leap Forward everyone was making the most of actually having food. And did they have food! Sichuan
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(Szechuan) hotpot, Peking duck, boiled gyoza, fried gyoza, whole fish 40cm long on a plate dripping with sour sauce ... I could go on.
A Chinese friend asked me what I wanted for lunch one day and I said "Gee, how about some dog!" 30 minutes later I opened the plastic takeaway container and saw what looked like beef. "What's this?" I asked. "Dog". Pushing thoughts of childhood labradors aside I tried a bit but the gamy flesh had too powerful an aftertaste. Half the fun of eating in China is not knowing what is on the menu. I visited the shopping district of Wan Fujing and found a friendly insect vendor. Grasshoppers, ants, what looked to be cockroaches, and scorpions! The scorpions were crispy and delicious. Just once in their lifetime, everyone should try and eat an insect.
One of my Chinese friends said to me "Do you know that if an alien landed in the US it would be put on Oprah or Jerry Springer; if it landed in Japan it would be studied and researched; but if it landed in China it would be eaten!" Language
Chinese is not hard. Think about all those movies where the Chinese characters speak in a Pidgin English: "You go job" or "You eat beef" without any care for indefinite/definite articles, conjugations of verbs and so on. That is because in Chinese, it is that simple. In a restaurant, "I'll have the dumplings please" becomes "wo chi jioazi" (literally: I eat dumpling). "I want to go to Tiananmen"—Wo yao chu Tiananmen (I want go Tiananmen). Where is the toilet? Cesuo zai nar (toilet is where?). Yes, there are 5 tones, but even if you get the tone
343 wrong, context usually ensures that everyone understands when you say horse instead of mother.
Even so, on my first visit to a restaurant I had a bit of "newly arrived in Japan" dejavu, except that there were no plastic dishes in the window. Two possible solutions: (1) have a friend teach you the name of a couple of dishes and order the same dishes at a few restaurants for practice. I have eaten gong bao ji ding (spicy chicken!) all over Beijing. This is insurance against starving. (2) carry the Lonely Planet phrasebook. Even if you mangle the tones it is not too hard to spit out the words for fish (yu) beef or pork (niu). La mien is noodles (say la mien and what Japanese “Chinese” food springs to mind?) Gyoza is jioazi. And you can always point at the kanji in the book, or even better, at the food the people at the next table are eating. Travel
I spent most of my time in Beijing, but I did make a few side trips to the Great Wall, the Summer Palace, Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, and Beidahe. Getting around is much simpler than in the bad old days when everyone had to be escorted by special guides. Booking trains and such is a breeze. Just grab a nearby university student to translate if you have any hassles!
Ten years ago foreigners could only stay in designated hotels. These days in Beijing you can stay at most places without a problem, but take care outside the big city. In Beidahe I went with Chinese friends to check in at the hotel only to be told that the hotel had no licence for foreigners. I tried two more hotels nearby before finding 344 one that would take me. Beidahe is a beach resort, and the bigwigs of the Chinese government apparently go there for their holidays. It has yellow sand and warm Pacific swell. It also has some really cool concrete animals (including killer whales and penguins), though the dilapidated buildings near the beach do not provide the best of backdrops.
Everybody should see the Great Wall. You can get there by bus but they go to the over crowded tourist section of the wall, and you are limited somewhat by the bus schedule (a very early departure). If you have three friends then sharing a taxi will give you greater flexibility for about the same price as the bus. Haggle. I had to ask four drivers before I found one who would take my friends and I (and bring us back) for 300 Yuan. A 2-3 hour drive gets you there and then it is time for sturdy footwear. Fight off the hawkers with "bu yao!" and walk about a kilometre to the Wall. If you have any sense of adventure you will climb the impossibly steep steps and not only catch the amazing views from the wall turrets but improve your resting heart rate at the same time.
The Summer Palace is amazing; a huge expanse of gardens and waterways which takes hours to walk around. It is crammed with sightseers, but still a welcome change from the traffic filled streets of central Beijing. You are likely to be asked to jump in a few people's photos. A friend and I wound up surrounded by schoolchildren, each wanting a photo with the waigoren (Chinese for gaijin). The biggest difference—10-year old kids would come up and say with flawless pronunciation, "May I have a photo with you?"
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Beijing has a collection of ancient back alleys known as hutongs. Explore these on bike and feel as if you have slipped back a few hundred years ... at least until you round the corner and hit a KFC. The houses, which back on to the hutongs, possess high stonewalls and gorgeous courtyards, perfect for an evening sitting under the stars and sipping the local brew. I recommend befriending someone who lives in a hutong!
Tiananmen Square is huge and very busy. It is hard to push from one's mind the scenes of the tanks rolling in during the pro-democracy demonstrations. The square is so wide that it can fit tens of thousands of people. Students may come up to you and ask you to visit a gallery, but they are not pushy—just after a free English lesson. The Forbidden City is both awe-inspiring and disappointing. It is huge, magnificent and humbling. Scenes from The Last Emperor flashed though my mind, but the grandeur has been lost to the ravages of the Cultural Revolution. Cheap, shoddy paint jobs and garish reconstructions abound, and one has the sense of incredible loss of history, art and culture. Still, I walked around gaping at the sheer size of the place.
I flew down to Shanghai for $100 US one-way. It has old sandstone buildings, elegant streets, gorgeous evening cityscapes, and fun people, A beautiful city where the locals have been playing the capitalist game for a lot longer than Beijingers.
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Going out
Beijing plays a good host to innumerable foreigners and its nightlife centres around San Li Tun (also referred to as the bar street). A cross between Khao San Road and Roppongi, one end of San Li Tun is full of bars, restaurants and cafés while the other end is the haunt of ladies of the night. Beers are pricier in San Li Tun, 25 yuan for a Tsing Tao.
Fancy some Thai or Indian food? Go to San Li Tun. They even have a cool Japanese restaurant, too. Lots of the bars have live music. Hit The Den to boogie until dawn, or Havana for open-air beers and salsa dancing until 3am. Chinese friends
China is more fun if you hang out with the locals. The value of English in obtaining a coveted job with a multinational has resulted in a super-abundance of excellent language learners. And do not think you will be limited to talking about what sports you play or whether you can use chopsticks—a meaty discussion about the events surrounding the Tiananmen massacre is quite possible. I discovered, however, that there tends to be a clear division between those who follow the government line and those who, often through personal experience, know what actually happened.
I spent 3 months in China. I picked up enough Chinese to get around and stay fed. I learned a lot about history, people, culture and menus. Most of all I made a lot of friends. If you want to lie on a beach go to Thailand. If you want to add some unforgettable experiences to your life, go to China. 347
Hong Kong
By Richard Scarth and Tao Robinson
“City of Life” is how the Tourist Association describes Hong Kong! Hong Kong is like an undeveloped country with a developed country’s wealth. There you might find some wealthy local family living in a shoebox with two children, a maid, a grandma...and of course, a Mercedes. Then you will understand how six million people fit into a 1000 square kilometre area! Once you have landed, you will find yourself surrounded by contrasts: photographing dilapidated buildings next to hi-tech skyscrapers, watching stressed people on their way to the office whilst others slow down for morning tai-chi practice.
Being a former British colony, most people are able to speak a little English, so getting around is not too difficult, especially with cheap and efficient public transport. However, you do have to know which bus to take. There are literally so many things to discover and to keep you busy—from all types of sports to clubs to cultural events. Hong Kong has, however, remained very traditional. The Star Ferry, the Peak Tram, the Lantern Festival, magnificent firework shows, Dragon Boat races, the Hungry Ghost month and Feng Shui are just some of what makes it special.
Even after the hand-over in July 1997, the small expatriate community has kept a cosmopolitan feel to the city with plenty of western style bars and many great restaurants. Eating is a major part
348 of Chinese culture, so you are spoiled with a wide choice of cuisine (dim sum is a must!). Then “shop ‘til you drop” for designer labels, electronics or the latest gadgets. Hong Kong is hectic but a fun and energetic place to live or visit. Visitors should try to avoid the horrid humidity in the summer.
South Korea South Korea takes off its mask
By Stephen Savage
Late September is a good time to visit South Korea. From Japan the flights can cost as little as \40,000. It can lead to an Asian experience that is similar to Japan in some instances, yet its own distinct culture at the same time.
Spend a day or two in Seoul. Travelling from the airport is easy using the subway. Visit the National Museum, National Palace and Gallery and gain some perspective on the manner in which Japan occupied Korea during the war. After pigging out in such western restaurants as Pizza Hut or TGI Fridays, experience the spicy Korean delights of Kimchi and Bulgogee, or the wonderful variety of vegetarian foods on offer at Sanch’on off Insadonggil (Tel: 735-0312). Next, make your way to Andong and find the real Korea, the historical Korea and indeed the international Korea at the Andong Mask Dance Festival.
Andong is situated about half way down the length of South Korea. Travel by bus, train or, if you prefer, by plane to Yechon and then by bus to Andong. Andong, now with a population of 200,000, is 349 said to be the cradle of Korean culture, in particular Confucian and Buddhist culture. There are a number of splendid old temples, stone pagodas and noblemen’s houses, as well as abundant cultural assets that have been preserved more carefully here than anywhere else in Korea.
One of the more enriching cultural displays is that of the Andong Mask Dance Festival, which started in 1998. As they say in the advertisement literature, “If you have never watched a mask dance, you cannot get into heaven!” A short distance from Andong is the Hahoe Folk Village. It is an ancient Yangban (aristocratic farmers) village surrounded by beautiful countryside and renowned as a model of national folk culture and tradition.
The Hahoe Puoishingut Talnori, a dance consisting of nine acts combining shaman rituals with popular entertainment, and the centrepiece of the Mask Dance Festival, is still performed there in all its vivid detail. The Hahoe Dance, with its vaguely Shakespearean overtones, tells the stories of nine of the twelve masked characters (three have been lost). They include Kakshi (bride), Yangban (aristocrat), Sonbi (scholar), Pune (flirtatious young woman), Choraengi (servant of Yang ban), Paekchong (butcher), Halmi (old widow), Chung (depraved Buddhist monk), and Imae (foolish person). The theatre is open air and the crowd is encouraged to participate. This two hour-long dance starts off the festivities, which last for four days in late September. Dancers come from many different countries, including the United States, Japan, China and Indonesia, to join their Korean counterparts in this extravaganza.
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Performances also take place in the Village of Hahoe, as well as a fireworks display and a lantern display. The village itself is worth a visit, if only to appreciate its age, contribution to Korean culture and the unique houses that face outwards in all four directions from the centre. This area of Korea is most definitely worth a visit. The festival was thoroughly enjoyable and the people were cheerful, helpful and friendly.
Mongolia
By Stuart Malcolm
Gone are the days of unswerving emulation of all things Soviet. Mongolia has realised that tourism represents a major foreign exchange generator and has embraced it with gusto. Visas are now easily available at borders, backpacker guesthouses are springing up and it is even possible to send e-mail from Ulaan Baatar. Ulaan Baatar itself is an ugly Soviet city best avoided. However, it is the hub of all transport and is home to the only edible food in the country, so it is hard to bypass.
Once out of Ulaan Baatar, roads in any sense of the word disappear, and there is nothing but wild grassland and desert. For Europeans used to a sardine-style life, the wide-open empty expanses are one of the major attractions of Mongolia. The night sky is truly entrancing—clear enough to see orbiting satellites and bright enough to read by moonlight.
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Outside of Ulaan Bataar, all accommodation is in some kind of tent—either one that you bring yourself or in a local's ger. Private gers are much cheaper (about $5 per person) than tourist gers, but obviously more basic. $5 a night would appear to be a fair price but when you get several people in one ger for a couple of nights, the family ends up getting a small fortune. As tourism is still in its infancy, the locals have not seen enough tourists to become greedy, but it will come, and it will inevitably bring disturbing changes to Mongolia's delicate eco-balance. Another problem to be aware of is that guides are keen on buying sweets to hand out to kids. Not only do they ruin the kids' teeth, but also the wrappers just get thrown away. A much better alternative is to buy a box of apples in Ulaan Baatar and give them out. Many kids have never seen apples before.
Wherever you stay, the food is utterly atrocious—boiled mutton, mare’s milk, and rock hard cheese. And then there is the vodka. Therefore, it is essential to stock up on vitamins from home and fruit and vegetables from the market in Ulaan Baatar. Most people hire vans in Ulaan Baatar and explore the countryside in small groups, so it is possible to survive as a vegetarian with a little advance planning. In 1998, there were two guesthouses in Ulaan Baatar, Gana's and Bold's. They are not easy to find, but touts meet the incoming trains. Gana's, situated near Gandan monastery, offers ger accommodation and ice cold beers but an unreliable water supply. Bold's, situated near the circus, offers beds in flat and reliable water.
Both charge $5 a night. Gana's has a well-used notice board where travellers advertise for companions for hinterland trips. It is
352 fairly easy to put together a group of people, a truck or van, a driver, and a guide to go to places like Hövsgöl lake and the Gobi. Drivers charge a flat rate per kilometre, irrespective of the type of vehicle. Travel around the country is very slow and tough (reckon on 20km/h). A trip to Hövsgöl via Mörön and back via the monastery at Karakorim and the Mongol Els sand dunes can be done in 12-15 days.
Wherever you go, the highlight will be the nomadic lifestyle of the locals. Most people still wear traditional clothes: a long del tied with a sash, riding boots and some kind of incongruous hat like a trilby or a Stetson. This looks even more bizarre when seen on a motorbike with a sheep strapped to the back. Herds of sheep, yaks, camels and horses can be seen all over the country. Eagles and marmots are everywhere. In mid-July, the Nadam festival takes place in Ulaan Baatar. Thousands of people descend on the city for several days of archery, wrestling and bareback riding. It is an amazing spectacle.
Nepal
By Elizabeth Sharpe
Nepal has so much to offer off the beaten track as well as on. By far the most popular activity in Nepal is trekking in the Sagarmatha (Everest), Annapurna, or Langtang regions. Even if you only have a week, it is well worth it. In addition, there are white-water rafting, rock climbing, and jungle safari expeditions. The Kathmandu Valley has plenty of sites for those with limited time. There are Hindu and Buddhist historical sites in Kathmandu: Swambu, Pushputinath, and Buddinath. Outside Kathmandu is Bhakthapur, a well-preserved Newari village. Nuwakot has short day-treks and outstanding views
353 of the Langtang range at sunrise. Try a weekend or weeklong retreat at Kopan Monastery, a Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Kathmandu.
There are plenty of sights I would recommend outside of the Kathmandu valley: Pokhara is the start of most Annapurna treks. Tansen, a small Newari town nestled in the hills, is famous for Dhaka cloth and gleaming brassware. Janakpur is a Tarai town lit up by Janaki temple at night. It is also the home of the Maithali artists, world-renowned for their artwork. Lumbini, south of Butwal, is the birthplace of Buddha. In Royal Chitwan National Park, you can ride an elephant or go on a safari walk through the jungle to view tigers, wild elephants, rhinoceros, birds, and monkeys.
Getting Around
You can either go through one of the numerous travel agencies found in Thamel, Kathmandu, or go on your own. Buses that run from Kathmandu are frequent but slow. Outside of the Kathmandu valley, flag down the local bus, and it will stop for you. Flights to Pokhara, Butwal, and Lukla are also available from Kathmandu. If you are trekking, it is not necessary to go with porters and guides. Just get a hold of a trekking guidebook, available in the numerous new and used bookstores in Thamel.
When to Go
October through January affords the best possible views of the mountains. This is the best time to go trekking, though it's also the busiest tourist season. Going later avoids heavy traffic on the trails, but in winter, the passes and some lodges may be closed. April is a beautiful month to trek in the Annapurnas; the rhododendrons are
354 blooming. Late June through the end of August is the monsoon season. A popular trek during the monsoon is to Muktinath, in the Annapurnas, because it is in the rain shadow. Costs: Nepal is incredibly affordable compared to Japan. Guesthouses in Kathmandu cost about $4 or $5 a night. No need to reserve in advance. Food is just as inexpensive. Kathmandu, Pokhara, and trekking routes have a wide-range of food catering to western tastes: pizza, spaghetti, eggs and toast. Huge bottles of Nepali beer cost just $1. Try the local alcoholic brews: tungba—a barley drink famous in eastern Nepal, or roksi—made from rice and is brewed best by the Magars in western Nepal.
Well worth trying is the national dish: dal bhat, a delicious combination of rice, lentils, curried vegetables and pickles. Do not miss out on the tea. It is over a cup of tea that you will get to know your hosts. Life in Nepal happens while sipping tea. Also, dress conservatively: you will be more respected and less conspicuous. Bring a good, comfortable backpack, one you don’t mind carrying for hours at a time. There is very little space on the bus. So pack whatever you can fit on your lap. Less is best. You can rent trekking equipment in Kathmandu. If you are trekking and you do not want to rent one, bring a 20-degree sleeping bag, or a warmer one if you’re going in the winter. There is no heat where you will be sleeping and the guesthouses in the mountains do not have bedding. Bring toilet paper, but do not put it in the toilet unless it is a pit latrine. On the trail, there is enough litter, so bring out whatever you bring in, bury well, or burn trash.
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While in Nepal you will undoubtedly be accosted by the children who beg for 5 rupees or something equivalent. Do not give. It is better to donate your money to the charities in Nepal or support the activities of the Peace Corps, Volunteer Service Overseas, Japanese Overseas Service Volunteers, or the NGOs that are working in Nepal.
Travelling to and from Nepal
Royal Nepal Airlines is the international and domestic airline. There are flights to China, India, Thailand and Japan. Visas for India can be obtained from the embassy in Kathmandu. The travel agency tours for Tibet handle the group visa for overland tours. Visas for Nepal can be obtained on arrival at the airport. $15 for a 15-day visa, $25 for a 30-day visa, $40 for a 30-day double-entry visa or $60 for a 60-day multiple-entry visa (The political situation in Nepal is changeable. You should contact your country's foreign affairs department to find out their latest advice for travellers.)
Tibet
By Stuart Malcolm
Without a shadow of a doubt, Tibet is the most amazing place in the world. Forget your Taj Mahals, Eiffel Towers, Niagara Falls, Machu Picchus and Ayers Rocks; the Potala is far and away the most majestic sight you are ever likely to see.
However, and this is a big reservation, Tibet is essentially an occupied country being steadily ethnically cleansed by the authorities
356 in Beijing. Most people are aware of the plight of the Dalai Lama and the Tibetan government in exile but this is only scratching the surface. For example, in 1999 the World Bank gave China a massive loan to relocate thousands of Chinese farmers to the Tibetan plateau in an attempt to further dilute the Tibetan population. By going to Tibet you are giving a serious amount of money to the Chinese government in the way of various "permits" and fees. There are therefore a number of options for travel to Tibet:
• Do not go. Campaign for freedom by joining an organisation like the Free Tibet Campaign (9 Islington Green, London N1 2XH, [email protected]). • Avoid giving money to the government by travelling rough (extremely rough) and being evasive, e.g. entering by truck at night under a pile of yak skins and avoiding the guards at all the tourist attractions. • Pay for your permit (this does not include any entrance fees, meals or accommodation) but you should be very aware and always think about where your money is going. Actively choose Tibetan hotels, shops, restaurants and tour operators. Do your research before you go and learn as much as possible while there. The Dalai Lama's autobiography, Freedom in Exile and Dragon in the Land of Snows by Tsering Shakya are excellent starting points. • Inform as many people as possible on your return.
Rhetoric aside, there are four land routes and two air routes to Lhasa. The easiest and most normal routes are Golmud to Lhasa by bus, Lhasa to Kathmandu by landcruiser or plane and Chengdu to Lhasa by plane. The other two routes are more difficult and time-consuming. It is possible to hitch from Kashgar to Lhasa via Mount Kailash, once you have paid your ･500 fine in Ali.
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The eastern routes from Lhasa to Chengdu and Yunan overland are extremely difficult, and travelling in the opposite direction is all but impossible unless you happen to look Chinese or Tibetan and go in disguise. The last two routes involve several weeks of tough, high altitude travel.
On any overland trip it is essential to stock up on warm clothing and plenty of food and water. No one wants to be stuck at the top of a 5000m pass with a broken bus, half a packet of hobnobs and the latest in designer beachwear. Be aware of altitude sickness. Flying into Lhasa (3800m) or entering Tibet from Nepal (1000m to 5000m in one day) presents the most serious problems. Coming from Golmud (2800m), the ascent is more gradual but even with acclimatization it is best to take things easy on the first few days.
Regulations on visas and permits change on a regular basis but generally speaking, it is easier to get from China proper to Tibet than from Nepal to Tibet—once in China it is simply a matter of picking up your permit (or pile of yak skins) in Golmud or Chengdu. The Friendship Highway from Lhasa to Kathmandu is generally unpaved but regularly scraped, which makes one wonder how serious they are about their friendship. Now that travel to Tibet is becoming easier, Lhasa is on its way to being the new Kathmandu; Internet cafés are springing up and all self-respecting restaurants have banana pancakes on their menus. However, outside the main tourist season (September to October), there are very few travellers. Indeed, in winter the city is packed to overflowing with circumambulating
358 pilgrims from the countryside with prayer wheels visiting the holy sites.
Lhasa and its environs are home to the most impressive monasteries. The reconstructed Ganden monastery is particularly stunning. There is a wide selection of Tibetan guesthouses, the Pentoc being the newest and best appointed. Mr. Tundru is very reliable and can organise land cruiser trips to the Nepalese border. Outside of Lhasa the main sights are the Tashilumpho Monastery at Shigatse (home of the Panchen Lama), the Kafkaesque fortress at Gyantse and the concrete toilet block at Everest Base Camp (5200m).
Central Asia
Ex-soviet & Central Asian Republics
By Stuart Malcolm
For the purposes of this article, Central Asia is taken to mean the ex-Soviet republics of Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan and Tajikistan. The republics have been independent since 1991, but they are taking their time in shaking off the shackles of Soviet bureaucracy. This, together with the chaos resulting from the collapse of their economies, means that they are not the easiest of countries to visit. However, if you do decide to go, you will find several outstanding sights, amazing bazaars and warm hospitality. Despite their language Russian is still the lingua franca. Very few people speak English so a little Russian will help to smooth over official hurdles.
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Visas
Visas are likely to be the single biggest hassle associated with any trip to this area. Regulations change by the minute, and border guards answer to no one, so getting up to date information is crucial. Some guards and police officers feign ignorance of visa regulations and try to "fine" travellers. Police hassle is an everyday occurrence in Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan, especially in bus and train stations. Do not put up with this—stand your ground and they will give up. Stalin gerrymandered the borders in the twenties. As a result, roads criss-cross borders and there are enclaves of one country in another. In the old days this was not an issue, but now there are border posts at every crisscross, making for a fun time for Mr. Visa Checker. A highly entertaining account of a recent trip to the region can be found in Giles Whittel's Extreme Continental.
Kazakhstan This is the largest and emptiest of the republics—ideal for nuclear testing and rocket launches. Almaty, the former capital, is the only place with anything approaching character, but it is Russian character, down to the onion dome church in Panfilov Park. Despite groaning stalls in the market, the restaurant situation is dire—a lot of the places have shut down and the remaining few serve up overpriced slop. Shaggies is notable only for the name. Perfectly acceptable accommodation can be found at KIMEP, the management institute; basic rooms are available in the bus station. Reckon on $30 a day.
Uzbekistan Architecturally, Uzbekistan has the most to offer. The legendary Silk Road cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva are magnificent if
360 a little sanitised. A thriving black market in Uzbekistan makes everything ridiculously cheap—$15 a day should cover the average traveller. Private guesthouses are starting to appear. Notable in this department is Mubinjohn's place in Bukhara, a traditional Uzbek house in the middle of the old town with a slightly cranky owner. A day or five spent drinking tea, eating kebabs and watching the wizened elders playing chess and backgammon by the Lab-i-Hauz pool is the perfect way to relax. Tashkent has a handful of vaguely interesting museums but is mainly a transit point. The Ferghana Valley offers the itinerant traveller very little in the way of sights. One hidden (in fact, non-existent) attraction is the Aral Sea. A trip to Moynak reveals the folly of Soviet attempts to conquer nature. Once a thriving fishing port, it now lays some 40km from the sea as a result of the gigantic irrigation schemes used to feed the region's cotton fields. Rusting ships lie stranded in the sand, while dust storms play havoc with the health of the inhabitants.
Kyrgyzstan At the junction of the Pamirs and the Tien Shan, Kyrgyzstan is a veritable playground for lovers of the outdoors. Trekking, rafting, skiing, hot springs and camping are all possible. The best place to base your self is Karakol at the eastern end of Lake Issyk-kul. There are many companies offering their services but one that stands out is Yak Tours, based in their little guesthouse on Ulitsa Gagarin. Vegetarians, or anyone of a squeamish disposition for that matter, should be on the lookout for the sheep's eyeballs that are sometimes served up. The grizzly Valentin knows everyone and can organise anything.
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On the other side of the country Osh bazaar is an amazing experience. Covering a massive area, thousands of people barge past selling everything from melons to medicine. Internal transport is very cheap and, as with the other countries in the region, it is easy to get around by shared taxi. Internal flights are also dirt-cheap—Osh to Bishkek is about $20 although a $15 tax for foreigners was payable in some places.
Turkmenistan Over 90% desert with little in the way of sights, Turkmenistan sees far fewer tourists than Uzbekistan or Kyrgyzstan. However, what it lacks in sights it more than makes up for with posters of President Turkmenbashi. Responsible for a cult of personality outstripping even North Korea, the man is using the country's Caspian oil and gas income to fund a massive program of construction and glorification. The revolving Turkmenbashi statue atop a three-legged spaceship in the centre of Ashgabad is particularly memorable. Turkmenistan is famous for its carpets, but the carpet museum in Ashgabad is disappointing. Like the Aral Sea, Merv is a classic non-sight.
Apart from a couple of crumbling buildings there is nothing to see of the ancient city. However, this is missing the point—the ruins are a stunning testament to the destructive power of the Mongols. This city of one million was wiped off the map by an army of Mongol warriors with orders to behead 300 men, women and children each.
Tajikistan Linguistically, this is the odd one out of the republics. Tajik is a Persian language as opposed to the Turkic languages used in the 362 other countries. There is a long running civil war raging, and information on the situation is difficult to come by. A 5000m-border crossing branching off the Pamir highway from Khorog to Osh is apparently being built to connect Tajikistan with China. If the war ever settles down this would be an alternative to the Torugart pass from Kashgar in western China to Bishkek in Kyrgyzstan.
India
By Claire Mortimer
The best-laid plans will inevitably go wrong in India. Be flexible. This noisy, exotic, dirty, exhilarating place is truly an experience you will never forget. Before arriving in Delhi, it is advisable to book accommodation and get the guesthouse to send a taxi, price pre-determined, especially if your plane arrives at night. We met countless people who fell for the classic taxi scams; for instance, they were told their guesthouses had closed down or were full and so were taken to the driver’s choice of place to stay.
Walking through the main bazaar in Old Delhi, we were accosted at every step, being so obviously new to the place. Be careful of travel shop touts who will try anything to entice you into their shops. Sometimes it is best to simply ignore them. Rude as it might seem, it works better than confrontation. To be sure of reliability and reasonable prices, use the official government travel and information centre at Connaught Place. For all the usual reasons, and as in most other Asian cities, it pays to be cautious when considering a rickshaw ride. Before you get in, agree on a price and insist on no detours.
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Our first stop was Agra for the Taj Mahal, where we had some of the most peaceful and serene moments of our time in India. It really is a must, especially at sunrise and sunset, despite all the crowds, the intense heat and hassling locals. In the Hindu Holy City of Pushkar, we joined in the mad fun of the Camel Fair (beginning of November). It is best to arrive a few days before the main festival to ensure accommodation and witness most of the camel racing and trading. The festival is fascinating. Thousands of people arrive from nearby towns and villages. There were amazing brightly coloured saris everywhere, thousands of camels, street stalls, snake charmers, scary fair rides, and people having their teeth pulled out in the streets! Although no alcohol is allowed, I recommend a “special yoghurty drink” full of “herbs” called Bang Lassi—enjoy!
Remember that in India, buses and trains are painfully slow and unreliable, so if you are going to the airport, allow yourself plenty of time for the journey. India is not for the fainthearted. You will be shocked by the extreme misery and poverty, outraged at the caste system and face many difficult situations. However, you will meet fantastic people, see beautiful places and have an unforgettable time.
Rajahstan
By Ana Gaston
My first stop in Rajahstan was Jodhpur, more romantically known as the Blue City. Jodhpur is located on the Eastern edge of the Thar Desert that stretches across a large part of Rajashstan. The
364 first thing I noticed was the wealth and healthy faces of the people, a far cry from the destitution I had witnessed in Delhi. The main feature of the town is a gigantic fort that rises up on a sandstone plateau high above the town.
The local people paint their houses blue to help keep the soaring temperatures tolerable in summer. The people are a strong and artistic group. The women wear incredibly bright saris, such as pink and canary yellow or bright lime and sapphire blue with orange patterns! With their dark skin, these colours seem to radiate an impressive beauty and many wear heavy gold jewellery to complement them. The men are also stunning in their large, sweeping turbans of red, pink or orange. They usually sport carefully manicured moustaches preened upwards at the tips. They wear dhotis (a cloth wrapped around the waist), and perhaps a waistcoat.
The Rajputs (Rajasthanis) had a huge fort erected to defend themselves from the aggressive Muslim Mughal invasions. I spent a whole day wandering around the palace within the fort admiring its glitzy rooms covered in coloured glass, mirrors and mosaic. At sunset I visited the small temple at the western tip of the fort plateau and took in the view of the town below. From Jodhpur I travelled across the Thar Desert to the small city of Jaisalmer on the western border, which is now an important military outpost due to its proximity to Pakistan.
Unfortunately, tourism in Rajasthan is so developed that it detracts from some of the pleasures. I spent four days relaxing and
365 wandering the fort walls before setting forth into the Thar Desert for a camel trek. These treks are a popular option with travellers and it's an experience I would recommend to others. Inside and outside the fort, hoteliers and trekking companies compete with each other, but I went with Desert Boys Hotel’s who organised a three-day/ two-night trek. I was driven one hour into the desert to meet the camels and their owners. The camels finished grazing in the bushes and were loaded up before I climbed on. Everyone in our small group had a camel and steered it with a rope that was attached to a metal rod that went through the camel’s nose.
The Thar Desert, diverse in its shades of colour, was enchanting. We climbed over dunes and reddish/mauve gravel. We rode for three hours and stopped in a tree grove for lunch. While the camels grazed we helped the drivers prepare our food. Every meal was delicious and plentiful: usually porridge for breakfast, curry and fruit for lunch, biscuits and tea at sunset and noodles, chappati and dahl for dinner.
The temperatures were hot in the day (even though it was winter) and we all wore hats and scarves wrapped around our faces to protect us from the powerful rays. In the evening the weather was cool and during the night and early morning quite chilly. Both nights we slept on sand dunes under the stars with just a blanket beneath our sleeping bags. The evenings were relaxing and enjoyable; our group gelled really well and we were entertained by one of our camel guides who sang us traditional songs.
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Further information
An Indrail Pass is not the best value for money, but it is a great way to avoid the constant queues for tickets. You can buy them in advance from JTB. Tel: 03-1284-7391.
Oceania
Australia
By Claire Mortimer
It may not seem like much of a cultural discovery at times, but Australia should not just be dismissed as “The UK in the sun.” There is a lot to see and do and travelling around Australia could not be easier. It is, however, so vast that several months are needed to do it any justice.
January and February are perfect months to arrive and explore the south, then work your way up north by June to enjoy winter in the tropics. Cheap and popular travel is by bus (the main companies are Greyhound and McCaferty’s or The Oz Experience for a more Club 18-30 style trip!). Trains can be expensive, as are flights, but check your ticket, as you may be eligible for cheap domestic flights. A cheaper option is to drive a relocation car or camper van. The roads are easy to drive on and it can be refreshing to be off the tourist bus. Be careful when buying a car from other travellers, who will undoubtedly have hammered it into the ground on long journeys, as have others before them. Remember that you must register your car and that you need a certificate declaring that it is road-worthy. If you 367 plan to go into the bush then it is vital that you join the RAC; you never know when you will need their recovery service. The RAC can also do a check on your car for a small fee. We flew into Brisbane and made our way down the east coast, passing through Surfers Paradise, a developed and commercial resort mostly for package holidaymakers. Byron Bay meanwhile is more of a backpacker’s area, a smaller, quieter place with great beaches, surf, good diving and a chilled hippie hangout.
It is easy to stay a while in Byron Bay, but we moved on to Coff’s Harbour and then Sydney to do the usual sights and witness the excellent gay and lesbian Mardi Gras at the end of February. An evening of glam, gorgeous gyrating bodies and some great post-parade club nights (tickets in advance) showed Sydney at its finest. Sydney is a fantastic city with great beaches—such as Manly, a popular destination that can be reached by taking a short ferry ride from Circular Quay—and a brilliant nightlife. Sydney Harbour Bridge and the famous Opera House are spectacular sights, particularly on a sunny day or at night when both are lit up. (You can get cheap tickets for the Opera House by turning up half an hour before a performance is due to begin. Unsold tickets can be bought at cut-price.) Close by the Bridge/Opera House area is the Rocks, a lovely part of Sydney. Despite its proximity to these sights, the Rocks is a calm, quiet area most of the time. It has old-fashioned pubs and colonial architecture.
An un-missable day trip from Sydney is the Blue Mountains, which can be reached by public transport. Canberra is six hours down the road and although many people dismiss this city, you can visit the
368 new Parliament building, there is an excellent free war memorial museum and it is pleasant to chill in the street cafes and enjoy life in this squeaky clean, picturesque city. You can ski in the nearby Great Dividing Range between June and July.
Five hours on is Melbourne, probably my favourite Australian city. You can get anywhere on the old trams. Visit the gaol to see what the “Poms” did to the convicts and then drop by Chinatown for delicious Chinese and Vietnamese food. Around Melbourne, there are a few places to escape the backpackers for a while and get a taste of real Australian life. Bendigo, an old mining town, and the Yarra Valley, with its wineries (with free tasting!) were good stops. From Mildura through Swanhill, Echuca, and Yarrauong, we spent a few lazy days enjoying water sports in the sun. The Goldfields Tourist Route tracks the major gold rush centres of the last century, in particular Ballarat and Bendigo. We spent a week in Shepparton, a small rural town, where we did some fruit picking (January to April, Tel: 058-320300) and got involved in small town Aussie life with herds of emus grazing at the roadside—not a Pom in sight; it was excellent!
Along the magnificent Great Ocean Road, over 300km to Torquay and Warnambool, we took in the spectacular coastal scenery; great beaches, national parks and the famous 12 Apostles rock formations. There were good, cheap camping and caravan sites all along the route. They are even cheaper by mid-March, as the weather starts to get chilly. We travelled onward, through the hills to Adelaide with brief stops at the spooky blue lake of Mount Gambier and Kingston. Adelaide still has an English colonial feel to it and is another popular
369 base for travellers looking for work. We moved on to the delights of Barossa Valley in the lovely rolling hills, where there are over 50 wineries to visit. If you go to the Gawler Information Centre, the old man behind the counter will give you a great itinerary for an off the beaten track scenic drive between Angaston and Tanunda. Short straw for the driver, though, as the unlimited wine tasting goes down a treat!
We geared up the car with water, camping and emergency provisions and headed up the road to the red centre to experience the Australian Outback. This, for me, was the real Australia. The road from Adelaide to Alice Springs and Darwin is tarmac and very straight so it makes the driving easy. Fill up at every gas station so you will never get stuck. Do not drive at night, as the kangaroos are a very real danger and if you go off road, you must have 4WD or you will get nowhere. Taking the Stuart Highway north of Adelaide, it soon gets very hot in the barren desert, but it is remarkably peaceful and the sense of space (especially after Japan) was awesome. Coober Pedy gets bad press, but I liked this barren, arid and seemingly inhospitable mining town where Mad Max 3 was filmed. It is famous for its Opals and the Old Timers Mine is also worth a visit. You can also visit the dugout homes. These are houses cut from the rock to try and stay cool in the 50-degree centigrade summers.
Further north is the Northern Territory and the red centre. It is the least populated state but has millions of sheep, cattle and flies. Guaranteed you will buy one of those daft Aussie hats with a net or corks. You will look really stupid but will not care. In the Northern
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Territory, you can do various Aboriginal activities and learn about their customs, art and way of life. You can also learn about the white settler’s history. Remember that to enter Aboriginal land you need a permit, which is not easy to get. There are tours, mainly up north near Kakadu. This may be the closest you will get to a real insight into an Aboriginal community.
It is then a seven-hour drive to Uluru (otherwise known as Ayers Rock). The purpose-built service village at Yulara tries to accommodate all budgets but it is expensive even to camp there. You have no other choice except being ripped-off. The village, however, has prevented the rock from being spoiled by huge commercial enterprise. It really is breathtaking and awe inspiring to watch the sun rise or set on the rock in this magical place. The various walks around the base of the rock were very interesting and there is a lot of Aboriginal art to see and legends to learn. Abide by the rule and do not climb on the rock, so as not to offend Aboriginal spiritual beliefs.
From Uluru we went to Kings Canyon. If you’ve got a 4WD it is worth taking the alternative Uluru-Kings Canyon route via the Henbury meteorite craters. The canyon was spectacular with huge cliffs, lush gorges, amazing views, easy trails and bathing in the lovely oasis. Just before Tennant Creek, you will hit the Devil’s Marbles conservation reserves, hundreds of spherical boulders scattered randomly in the bare desert. At Tennant Creek, you have to decide whether to go north to the famous Kakadu National Park or east back to Queens land. After checking the weather, we did not go north due to a bad and prolonged wet season that made many roads impassable.
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Near Charters Towers, we were lucky enough to stay at a friend’s cattle station. The closest thing you can do to this is a farm-stay. I'd recommend it as we had a brilliant time herding cattle in by helicopter, and helping to brand and vaccinate them. We did, however, opt out of the ball-chopping and de-horning! Those red-hot days at the cattle station—staying with salt of the earth Aussies, working hard, enjoying a cold stubby and a barbecue in the evening—really made my Australian experience memorable. We went up to Cairns, stopping en route at quiet Mission Beach to relax and do some scuba diving. Cairns, in the subtropical north, is a good base for activities like diving, rainforest trips, bungee jumps, horse riding, sea kayaking, rafting, ballooning, skydiving and so on. There is also, inevitably, the beery nightlife.
What better way to cure a Saturday morning hangover than to jump out of a plane at 14,000 feet? Skydiving was one of the highlights of my trip and I used Paul’s Parachuting on McLeod Street. You can jump from 8000, 10,000, 12,000 or 14,000 feet. I watched all the others jump out and there I was, all alone, climbing even higher! The views over the rainforest and the reef were stunning, although it was not the view I was concentrating on as I wobbled precariously, hunched on all fours at the open door of the plane!
Becoming an adrenaline junkie, I then tried a bungee jump, set in the rainforest overlooking the reef. The 45m-high A.J. Hacket platforms did not seem that high or scary after skydiving. A popular excursion from Cairns is Cape Tribulation in the Daintree National
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Park. You can go on a jungle trek, and see crocodiles, huge spiders, bats and lots more besides. There is also good accommodation: the tranquil Crocodilus, right in the rainforest, or PKs where the rainforest meets the reef. Daintree is a world heritage sight and the oldest, continuing rainforest in the world.
Further information http://www.yha.org.au Australia Youth Hostel information http://www.travelaus.com.au/farmhost Australian Farmhost Holidays Pty.Ltd P.O.Box41 Walla Walla, NSW 2659 Australia. Tel: 02-6029-8621 Fax: 02-6029-8770 E-mail: [email protected] Host Farms and Home stays At Home Down Under, PO Box 98, Cremore Junction. NSW 2090, Australia. http://www.wwoof-australia.com.au WWOOFING (Australia-wide volunteer work on organic farms)
Fiji
By Chris Gadgie
If you want to seek out the conventional idea of paradise, you could do no worse than head for Fiji. You can reach Fiji on a nine-hour direct flight from Nagoya for less than US$900. Unlike some South Pacific Islands, Fiji is well geared towards tourism. Beware of the swarms of people trying to gain your favour on arrival at the airport in Nadi. There is an independent tourist information office at the airport that can suggest agents for particular places, although it helps to know what you want beforehand.
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Getting around Fiji is easy, as long as you know where you are going. The minibuses are a convenient way to travel. They wait until they get a full load and head off at breakneck speed, faster than the normal buses for the same price. The capital city Suva, with its Fiji Museum, is an interesting deviation away from the beaches. Fiji has many day trips, ranging from mountain biking, hiking, four wheels driving, canoeing, surfing and diving, to simply relaxing on a beach. Different travel agencies tend to specialise in particular types of trips. The Fijian village tour offers the opportunity to see some traditional island life.
As for beaches, there are too many to mention, but the Blue Lagoon area, on the island of Tavewa in the Yasawas group, is renowned for the filming of the Brooke Shields movie. Even without her there, it remains attractive with Fijian “bure” huts on the shore of beautiful sandy beaches, gorgeous coral, tropical fish and other marine life, including turtles, mantas and sharks. Accommodation varies from budget to more luxury huts.
New Zealand
By Nichola Hopkins, Jo McGregor and Kim McFarlane
New Zealand is a microcosm of the world's delights. It is home to everything from indigenous Maori culture, native plant and bird life, a host of thrill seeking adventure opportunities to three million very friendly people and 60 million sheep. It is an easy country to bike or hitch around; although bear in mind that climatic conditions vary from sub-tropical to near Antarctic.
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Many people hire cars or motor homes, which are good options, as public transport does not venture off the beaten track. Another popular choice is the Kiwi Experience—buses that do a tourist circuit so you can hop on and off when you please. Auckland is a vibrant city situated on a narrow isthmus between the Waitemata and Manukau Harbours. Known as the City of Sails, yachting and other water sports are incredibly popular. Auckland is a good base for exploring the west coast black sand surf beaches Piha and Muriwai, the location for The Piano, the vineyards of North Auckland and the islands of the Hauraki Gulf. Auckland has some excellent restaurants and cafés. Try the Bronze Goat on Ponsonby Road for innovative New Zealand cuisine and the Middle Eastern Café on Wellesley Street for a quick, cheap and oh-so-good lunch treat.
Both Vulcan Lane in the city centre and the suburb of Ponsonby are dotted with cafés and have arty atmospheres. Ponsonby is also famous for the Hero Parade held every year at the end of a weeklong gay pride celebration. Devonport is Auckland's oldest suburb and it can be reached by taking a short ferry ride across the harbour. Full of beautifully maintained wooden villas, calm beaches facing Mt Rangitoto, seafront restaurants and some of New Zealand’s best second hand bookstores, Devonport is the place to spend a relaxing afternoon. If you feel up to it you can trek through the tunnels of North Head, built during WWII (in case of invasion).
At Cape Reinga on the northernmost point of the North Island, you can see the meeting of the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea. The
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Bay of Islands, situated on the east coast of the North Island is, as the name suggests, a bay full of islands! It is a beautiful area and great place for boat trips. Coromandel and the Bay of Plenty have beaches galore. Take a boat trip through the world famous glowworm caves at Waitomo, or if you are feeling more adventurous go black-water rafting. See traditional Maori dances, partake in a hangi, bathe in hot springs, and see boiling mud and geysers in Rotorua. Take a trip out to some of the surrounding emerald lakes with natural hot springs, but be warned: it smells!
On the shores of Lake Taupo, the largest lake in New Zealand, there are many boating, fishing, hunting and rafting opportunities. This area is also just a small step away from Tongariro National Park. The Park is set amid the volcanic wonderland of Mt. Tongariro, Mt. Nguaruhoe and Mt Ruapehu. You can go hiking, climbing, skiing, and crater lake viewing, and there is even bungee jumping nearby. The capital city, Wellington, has a beautiful harbour surrounded by hills.
There are innovative theatres and thriving café scenes; take the cable car up to the botanical gardens, wander along Oriental Parade, and take in the view from Mt. Victoria. Also worth a look is the relatively new museum of New Zealand, Te Papa. Built on the waterfront, it offers something for everyone from interactive hands-on exhibits to virtual reality “rides” (and you said you would never bungee jump!). No visit is complete without a stop at the earthquake house (it really shakes), the Maori maraes, and the Golden Years exhibit that looks at “Kiwi-ana,” those things that make New Zealand like no other country.
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The South Island is home to many of New Zealand’s adventure sports, including bungee jumping, rafting and jet boating. There is also a plethora of hiking tracks and ski fields. Do not forget the Coast-to-Coast Iron man race or the City to Surf run!! The Cook Strait Ferry runs between Wellington on the North Island and Picton on the South Island through the beautiful Marlborough Sounds. You will find mountains, sea, native bush, pottery and art in the Nelson and Abel Tasman National Park. The Abel Tasman coastal track is one of the most popular and easiest hikes in New Zealand. You can sea-canoe the same area and land on beautiful golden sand beaches. Similarly, Nelson Lakes National Park and Arthur’s Pass National Park are both glorious places.
The west coast of the South Island is one of the least populated places in New Zealand and has one of the highest rates of rainfall in the world. Here you can see and walk on the Franz Josef and Fox glaciers surrounded by rain forest. Lake Matheson is definitely worth a look, too. It is only a small lake, but it gives a perfect reflection of Mt. Cook (the highest mountain in New Zealand). From Kaikoura you can go whale watching by boat or by plane. The plane is actually cheaper as you do not get so close, but there is the added bonus that the pilot might take you for a spin up into the Kaikoura Ranges.
Situated at the edge of the Canterbury Plains facing the Pacific, Christchurch is New Zealand’s third biggest city. It is the cultural centre of the South Island and is known for its magnificently maintained colonial buildings. A prime example of Christchurch’s
377 colonial architecture is the Christchurch Art Centre, at the old Canterbury University grounds. It now hosts weekend markets, art and craft shops, art-house cinemas and a whole host of cafés and restaurants. On the Historic Tram route and across the street from the Canterbury Museum and the Christchurch Botanical Gardens, the Art Centre is a perfect place to while away a hot Canterbury day. Christchurch’s nightlife is centred on Cashel Mall, Oxford Terrace and Lichfield Street.
Lake Tekapo and Lake Pukaki are indescribably coloured crystal lakes with wonderful views of The Southern Alps and access to Mt Cook. Moeraki Boulders, north of Dunedin, are famous for their perfectly round boulders coming out of the sea. New Zealand's tourist mecca is Queens land, from where you do the highest bungee jump in the world, go jet boating, water skiing, wind surfing, skiing, snowboarding, heli-skiing, rafting or take part in any other death-defying activity. The Fiordland National Park is the biggest National Park in New Zealand, hosting a glorious wilderness containing the Milford Track, perhaps the best known of New Zealand's trails. There are many more National and Forest Parks offering great scenery and wonderful hiking. Check at the Department of Conservation offices around the country for maps and information.
Further information http:// www.nz-travel.co.nz http:// www.backpack.co.n
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Appendix
Phone numbers of diplomatic missions in Japan
Algeria 3408-2101 3499-4461 Haiti 3711-2661 Chile Ethiopia 3486-7070 Argentina 3452-7561 3718-1003 Honduras 5420-7101 China Fiji 3409-1151 Australia 3403-3380 3587-2038 Hungary 5232-4102 Colombia Finland 3798-8801 Austria 3440-6451 3442-2231 Iceland 3451-8281 Costa Rica France 5493-8776 Bangladesh 3486-1812 5420-8800 India 5704-0216 Cuba Gabon 3262-2391 Belgium 5570-3182 3448-9540 Indonesia 3262-0191 Gambia 3441-4201 Belize Czech 3444-7806 Iran 3443-0388 Republic Germany 3446-8011 Bolivia 3400-8122 3473-0151 Iraq 3499-5441 Denmark Ghana 3423-1727 Brazil 3496-3001 5706-3201 Ireland 3404-5211 Dominican Greece 3263-0695 Brunei Republic 3403-0871 Israel 3447-7997 3499-6020 Guatemala 3264-0911 Bulgaria Ecuador 3400-1830 Italy 3465-1021 3499-2800 Guinea 3453-5291 Cambodia Egypt 3770-4640 Ivory Coast 3264-6420 3770-8021 Guyana 5454-1401 Canada El Salvador 5706-3201 Jamaica 338 5721-4114 3469-2088 Paraguay Islands Jordan Morocco 5485-3101 5275-0515 3580-5856 3478-3271 Peru South Africa Kazakhstan Myanmar 3406-4243 3265-3366 3791-5273 3441-9291 Philippines Spain Kenya Nepal 3496-2731 3583-8582 3723-4006 3705-5558 Poland Sri Lanka Korea South Netherlands 3280-2881 3440-6911 3452-7611 5401-0411 Portugal Sudan Kuwait New Zealand 3400-7907 3476-0811 3455-0361 3467-2271 Romania Sweden Laos Nicaragua 3479-0311 5562-5050 5411-2291 3499-0400 Russia Switzerland Lebanon Niger 3583-4224 3473-0121 3580-1227 5721-6371 Rwanda Syria Libya Nigeria 3486-7800 3586-8977 3477-0701 5721-5391 San Marino Taiwan Luxembourg Norway 3498-8427 3280-7811 3265-9621 3440-2611 Saudi Arabia Tanzania Madagascar Oman 3589-4241 3425-4531 3446-7252 3402-0877 Senegal Thailand Malaysia Pakistan 3463-8451 3441-7352 3476-3840 3454-4861 Singapore Tunisia Mexico Panama 3586-9111 3353-4111 3581-1131 3499-3741 Slovak Turkey Monaco Papua New Republic 3470-5131 3211-4994 Guinea 3400-8122 Uganda Mongolia 3454-7801 Solomon 3486-7800
339 Ukraine United States 3409-1501 3211-7604 3445-9229 3224-5000 Vietnam Yemen United Uruguay 3466-3311 3499-7151 Kingdom 3486-1888 Western Zaire 3265-5511 Venezuela Samoa 3423-3981
*For a complete listing of addresses for diplomatic missions from participating JET countries in Japan, check the JET Pages at the back of the General Information Handbook given to you by CLAIR.
*The JET Pages also include a listing for addresses of Japanese diplomatic missions in JET countries.
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