Cruising Guide to , the Faroe , and Jan Mayen

Michael Henderson & Helen Gould

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Cruising Guide to Iceland, the , Greenland and Jan Mayen

Michael Henderson and Helen Gould

Baltic Editors: Graham and Fay Cattell

Published by the Cruising Association BREXIT CA House Within this guide there are references to 1 Northey Street matters associated with Brexit. At the time Limehouse Basin of going to press many unknowns remain. London E14 8BT Please carefully check the current Tel 020 7537 2828 requirements of the country you intend to visit. E-mail: [email protected] Website: www.theca.org.uk

First Published – 2013 Revised 2014, 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019, and 2020 Current (Seventh) revision – 2021 © The Cruising Association 2021 All Rights Reserved

Disclaimer This publication contains selected information and thus is not definitive and does not include all known information on the subject in hand; this is particularly relevant to plans, which should not be used for navigation. The authors, editors and publishers believe that this selection represents a useful aid to prudent navigation, but the safety of a vessel depends ultimately on the judgement of the navigator who should assess all information, published or unpublished. No responsibility for loss occasioned to any person acting or refraining from action as a result of the material in this publication is accepted by any author, editor, or the Cruising Association.

Preface This Guide is intended to help the sailor venturing for the first time into Icelandic, Faroese and Greenland waters, including Jan Mayen. It covers the voyage from the UK via the Faroe Islands to Iceland, Greenland and around the coasts.

Front Cover photograph: Icelandic trawler in Húsavík by Mike Henderson Other photographs by Mike Henderson and Helen Gould except where noted otherwise.

THE CRUISING ASSOCIATION (CA) Founded in 1908 Worldwide membership - Worldwide representation Patron Sir Robin Knox-Johnston CBE

The CA is an association of international cruising yachtsmen with headquarters in London. There are members and local representatives in many countries of the world. Detailed cruising information and advice is provided through local area Sections, the countries covered by this Guide being looked after by the Baltic Section. There is a wealth of information available to members via the website; members benefit from discounts in many countries and have access to the local representatives, cruising information, technical and cruising forums.

New members are always welcome to join. For more detail and how to join visit www.theca.org.uk or contact [email protected].

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About the Author

The author is a retired marine engineer who spent 16 years at sea followed by many years in Japanese shipyards building container and finally a stint in charge of a Japanese refrigeration company. Since 2006 he has sailed over 45,000 miles mostly single-handed visiting Ireland, , Sweden, , Finland, Faroe Islands, Iceland and Greenland in his Moody 42 Centre Cockpit ketch, “Pangey”.

Pangey. Photo provided by Daniele and Daniel Kerfriden

CONTENTS

Page Search and Rescue services. 3. The Cruising Association. . 4. About the Author. 12. Weather, radio, Navtex. Contents. Conservation of the Environment 8. Iceland. Holding tanks. The physical conditions. 13. General waste. The wild life. Services and supplies. The people, their language and their Chandlery and repairs. education. Food and Drink. History. Money. 9. Religion. Telephone. Public holidays. Internet access. Time. 14. Post. Documents required. Medical and Dental treatment. Icelandic Maritime Traffic Service. Sailing in Icelandic waters. 10. Import of alcohol and tobacco. Currents. Flag regulations and etiquette. 15. Tides. Entry and departure by public Wind transport. Laying up. Getting around. 16. Harbour and anchorage information. 11. Publications. 17. Vestmannaeyjar. Buoyage. 18. Grindavík. Radio services. Reykjanes – headland.

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18. Stóra Sandvík – Anchorage. Vopnafjörður. 19. Garðskagi - headland. Bakkagerði/Borgarfjörður – Keflavik Anchorage. Hafnarfjörður. 49. Loðmundarfjörður - Anchorage Reykjavík. Seyðisfjörður. 21. Eiðsvik – Anchorage. 50. Mjóifjörður – Anchorage South West of Hvammsey – 51. Neskaupstaður/Norðfjörður Anchorage. 52. Hellisfjörður- Anchorage Akranes. 53. Eskifjörður 22. Arnarstapi – Anchorage/harbour. 54. Reyðarfjörður 23. Ólafsvik Storholmi – Anchorage Grundarfjörður – Anchorage. Breiðalsvík – Anchorage. 24. Grundarfjörður – Harbour Berufjörður Stykkisholmur Head of – Anchorage 25. Elliðaey – Anchorage 55. Skálavic – Anchorage Skarðstöð – Anchorage. Djúpivogur. 26. Flatey – Anchorage. 56. Höfn 27. Vatnsfjörður - Anchorage. 57. The Faroe Islands. Hafnarmuli – Anchorage. The physical conditions. Patreksfjörður. The wild life. 28. Talknafjörður – Anchorage The people, their language and their Arnarfjörður – Anchorage education. Dynjandivogur - Anchorage History. Þingeyri. 58. Religion. 29. Flateyri. Public holidays. Suðureyri Time. Norðureyri - Anchorage Documents Required. Isafjörður. Import of alcohol and tobacco. 30. Suðavik Flag regulations and etiquette. Seyðisfjörður – Anchorage. Entry and departure by public Skötufjörðdur – Anchorage. transport. Reykjanes – Anchorage 59. Getting Around. Aeðey - Anchorage Publications. Leirufjörður - Anchorage. Buoyage. 31. Hrafnsfjörður - Anchorage. 60. Radio Services. 32. Lonafjörður - Anchorage Search and Rescue Services. Langeyri – Anchorage. Fishing. Hesteyrarfjörður - Anchorage. Weather, Navtex. 33. Aðalvík/Latravik – Anchorage. Conservation of the environment. Aðalvík/Saeból - Anchorage Holding tanks. Fljotavík - Anchorage General waste. 34. Hornvík – Anchorage. 61. Services and supplies. 35. Ingolfsfjörður – Anchorage Chandlery and repairs. 36. Trékillisvík/Nordurfjord – Anchorage. Food and Drink. 37. Trékillisvík/Árnesey – Anchorage Money. 38. Siglufjörður. Telephone. 39. Heðinsfjörður – Anchorage Internet access. Ólafsfjörður. Post. Dalvik - Anchorage 62. Medical and Dental treatment. Grimsey. Sailing in Faroese waters. 40. Flatey. Currents. 41. Húsavík. Tides. 42. Kópasker 63. Unmanned Aircraft systems - Drones 43. Leirhöfn – Anchorage 64. Harbour and anchorage information. 46. Raufarhöfn. 65. Vágur Holsvik - Anchorage Tvøroyri. Þorshöfn. 66. Tjaldavik – Anchorage 47. Skoruvik - Anchorage Stóra Dimun Langanes, headland. 67. Skúvoy 48. Finnafjörður – Anchorage. Sandur 5

68. Húsavik - Anchorage Post. Medical and Dental treatment. 69. 90. Sailing in Greenland waters. Gamlaraett Firearms. 70. Miðvágur Permits. 91. Crossings 71. Selvik - Anchorage 92. Currents. Sørvágur 94. Tides. Bøur - Anchorage Ice 72. Mykines 100. Harbour and anchorage information Saksun - Anchorage 101. Area 1 73. Tjørnuvik - Anchorage Scoresby Sund Risin og Kellingin 103. Ittoqqortoormitt – Anchorage 74. Tórshavn. 104. Amdrup Havn – Anchorage 76. Nólsoy Walrus Bugt Leirvik 105. Fox Bay – Anchorage 77. Fuglafjórd. Constable Pynt - Anchorage Klaksvík. 106. Charcot Havn - Anchorage 78. Gjógv 104. Pangey’s Passage 80. Eiði. Bjørneøer (Bear Islands) 81. 101. Jyttes Havn – NE Anchorage (South) 113. Jyttes Havn – SW Anchorage Hvannasund (North) Sulugssut – Anchorage Svinoy – Anchorage. 114. Fangsthus - Anchorage 82. Syd Cap (Kangerterajiva) – Anchorage 83. Enniberg 116. Syd Cap – Anchorage 84. Greenland. Nordvestfjord The physical conditions. Nordbugten - Anchorage The wild life. 117. Øfjord – Fjord The people, their language and their 118. Rype Fjord - Anchorage education. 120. Harefjord/Ternevigerne – Anchorage History. 123. Rødefjord – Fjord 85. Religion. Ankersvigen - Anchorage Public holidays. Fønfjord – Fjord Time. 124. Denmark Ø Documents required. 125. Hekla Havn – Anchorage 86. Import of alcohol and tobacco. 126. Dougwal Bugt – Anchorage Flag regulations and etiquette. 127. Mudderbugt - Anchorage Entry and departure by public 128. Vikingabugten – Anchorage transport. 130. Area 2 Getting around. East Greenland Publications. 131. - Fjord 87. Harbour guides and pilot books Kraemer Ø, Suhaili Bugt – Anchorage Guide books 133. Uttental Sund Buoyage. 135. Purdeys Place – Anchorage Radio services. 136. North of Forbindelses Glacier – Medical advice Anchorage Maritime weather 137. Off the abandoned – 88. Search and Rescue services. Anchorage Fishing. Duck Pool - Anchorage Weather, radio, Navtex. 138. Mikis Fjord – Anchorage 89. Conservation of the Environment 139. Ryberg Fjord – Anchorage Holding tanks. 140. The Blosseville Coast General waste. 142. Wiedemann Fjord – Anchorage Services and supplies. Sokongen Bugt - Anchorage Chandlery and repairs. D’Aunay Bugt – Anchorage Food and Drink. Host Havn – Anchorage Money. Knighton Fjord – Anchorage Telephone. Kap Dalton – Anchorage Internet access. Roemer Fjord - Anchorage 6

143. Turner Sund – Anchorage 154. Area 5 144. Area 3 West Greenland South East Greenland 155. Godhavn – Anchorage Nordre Aputiteq – Anchorage Basisø Kitsissunnguit - Anchorage 145. Kangertivartikajik Fjord – Anchorage – Anchorage 146. East II – Anchorage Qernertivartivit – Anchorage 156. – Anchorage 147. Angmagssalik - Anchorage Faeringe Nordhavn – Anchorage Tasiilak Tulugaq – Anchorage 148. Area 4 South Greenland Andrea Olsens Sund – Anchorage 149. Cruncher – Anchorage Narssalik - Anchorage 157. Tasiussaq – Anchorage Bangs Havn - Anchorage Appamiutt – Anchorage Narssaq 158. Tovqussak - Anchorage Qaqortoq Fjord - Anchorage Qagssiarssuk – Erik den Roedes Ravns Støroe – Anchorage boplads - Anchorage 159. Jan Mayen Unartoq - Anchorage Kvalrossbukta - Anchorage Eggøya - Anchorage 150. Stordalens Havn - Anchorage 160. Båtvika – Anchorage Aappilattoq 161. Appendix 1 152. Niaqomaq – Anchorage 162. Appendix 2 Icelandic/English Prins Christian Sund 163. Appendix 3 Ice Chart Symbols 153. Weather Station 165. Appendix 4 Greenland - Mandatory Kangerdlutsiaq – Anchorage Reporting Systems Grydevig - Anchorage

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Iceland

The Country The physical conditions Iceland is a geologically very young land. If one takes the age of the earth as one year then Iceland was formed less than two days ago. Iceland sits on both the Icelandic hot spot and the Mid-Atlantic ridge. This location means that the island is very geologically active with many volcanoes. Located in mid-North Atlantic just South of the Arctic Circle Iceland has an area of 100,000 square kilometres stretching from approximately 66o 33’N to 63o 23’N and 13o 28’W to 24o 30’W. The climate is sub polar oceanic warmed by the North Atlantic Current. The coast remains ice free throughout the year. Temperatures in summer can vary considerably but usually hover between 5oC and 16oC. On a sunny day and sheltered from the wind the temperature can rise to over 20oC especially in late afternoon or evening. If the wind comes from the North temperatures drop dramatically to about 6oC.

The wild life On land wild mammals include Arctic Fox, mink, rats, mice, rabbits and reindeer. Polar bears have occasionally come over from Greenland on ice flows. In the sea there is an abundance of and, particularly on the North coast, whales. A wide variety of sea birds inhabit the coastal waters and cliffs. There are no reptiles or amphibians in the wild.

The people, their language and their education Approximately 360,000 people live in Iceland; of this number 93% are Icelandic. Well over half the total population live in the greater Reykjavik area. The original population was of Nordic and Gaelic origin; broadly speaking the men were from Norway and the women from Ireland. Iceland’s official language is Icelandic. This is a Germanic language descended from Old Norse. Unlike other Nordic languages Icelandic has changed very little from the Old Norse. Both English and Danish are widely used however, Danish is in decline as the younger generation is influenced to a large extent by English on the television and internet. Written Icelandic can be difficult for a foreigner to pronounce as it contains some letters not used in English. The Icelandic alphabet is a combination of the Roman alphabet, without the letters c, q and w, and a few Runic characters. The Roman characters are pronounced pretty much as in English. However, j is pronounced like y and r is rolled. The Á or á ow as in cow table below gives the pronunciation of the additional Ð or ð th as in father characters. É or é ye as in yes Í or í ee as in tree Ó or ó O as in sole All children between the ages of 6 and 16 must attend Ú or ú Oo as in moon school; compulsory education comprises primary and lower Ý or ý ee as in tree secondary. Nursery school and upper secondary school are Þ or þ th as in thin available to those who choose to attend. There are several universities in Iceland including the University of Iceland in Æ or æ i as in mine Reykjavik. Ö or ö i as in bird

History Theory suggests that the first settlers in Iceland were monks known as Papar who arrived in about 860. These monks apparently left when Norsemen systematically settled in the period 870 to 930. By 930 a form of parliament had been established and in 1000 Christianity was adopted. Gradually the control of the parliament was weakened by powerful chieftains and in 1262 a covenant was signed which brought Iceland under the Norwegian crown. About 1380 when Norway, Sweden and Denmark were united in the Kalmar Union possession of Iceland passed to Denmark. In 1402 and 1494 the Black Death decimated the population. In the mid 16th century King Christian III of 8

Denmark introduced Lutheranism which remains the dominant religion to this day. In the 17th and 18th centuries Denmark imposed severe trade restrictions on Iceland while pirates from several countries regularly raided coastal settlements. An outbreak of smallpox in the 18th century again decimated the population and the eruption of the Laki volcano in 1783 led to a famine, which further reduced the population.

After the Napoleonic wars Denmark/Norway was broken up, however, Iceland remained a Danish dependency. By 1850 a new nationalism had arisen aimed at achieving independence for Iceland. In 1874 Denmark granted Iceland a constitution and a limited degree of home rule. At the outbreak of World War II Iceland and Denmark claimed neutrality but after the German occupation of Denmark in April 1940 the Icelandic Government effectively became independent. In May 1940 British forces occupied Iceland for strategic reasons. The occupation of Iceland was passed to the Americans in 1941 to allow Britain to use its forces in other areas. Iceland formally became a republic on 17th June, 1944. In 1946 the allied occupation force left and Iceland became a member of NATO. By 1951 a defence agreement was signed with the United States and American troops remained in Iceland until September 2006. Post war growth was driven by industrialisation of the and the Marshall Plan program. The 1970s marked the most recent of many so called Wars with Britain as Iceland strove to gain full control of the seas around it’s coastline. The economy received a further boost when Iceland joined the European Economic Area in 1994 and the economy continued to grow until 2008 when the global financial crisis had a severe and lasting impact. Since 2008 many Icelanders have left Iceland with more than 5000 emigrating in 2009 alone. However, since 2010 the population has started to increase again.

Religion The Lutheran Church is the state church of Iceland although religious attendance is relatively low.

Public holidays New Year’s Day Palm Sunday Maundy Thursday Good Friday Easter Day Easter Monday First day of Summer Labour/May Day Ascension Day Whit Sunday Whit Monday National Day Commerce Day Christmas Eve Christmas Day Boxing Day New Year’s Eve.

Time Iceland uses UT (GMT) all year.

Documents Required Passport, no visa is required for British Citizens. Iceland is a signatory to the Schengen Agreement. Vessel Registration document. Radio Licence. EHIC (European Health Insurance Card) is valid in Iceland.

Icelandic Maritime Traffic Service The following is an extract from an e-mail received from the Icelandic Coastguard.

“It is important for safety reasons of a seafarer, to inform departure authorities and destination authorities about e.g. name of vessel/call sign, sailing route, departure port and destination port. Also how many persons are onboard, colour and length of vessel, and estimated sailing route. Also information about telecommunication equipment on board, VHF/HF, e-mail, satellite number, mobile telephone number, if contact is needed. Before entering port, at least with a few hours notice, the Icelandic Coast Guard/Customs requires vessels to send arrival report, with the above mentioned information, ETA destination harbour (name harbour), and a crew list and a passenger list (if passengers), stating nationality and passport numbers of the persons concerned.”

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ICELANDIC COAST GUARD Operations JRCC Iceland Maritime Traffic Service Tel: +354 5452100 Fax: +354 5452001 Email: [email protected] MMSI 002510100 INM-C: 425510519

The information can be sent several days in advance either by fax or e-mail, before embarking on the crossing to Iceland. The Coastguard will retain the message on file. When within VHF range call the Coastguard and give them your call sign, they will use this to retrieve your fax/e-mail. You can then update them with your latest destination and ETA. Please see Appendix 1 for an example of the document to be sent. Recently some vessels without AIS have been asked to report their position to the Coastguard at intervals of 6 hours and to report departure and arrival in port. Vessels with AIS have no such requirement.

Import of alcohol and tobacco The following duty free allowances apply:- 1 litre of spirits, 1 litre of wine and 200 cigarettes or 250g of other tobacco products. OR 1 litre of spirits, 6 litres of beer and 200 cigarettes or 250g of other tobacco products. OR 1.5 litres of wine, 6 litres of beer and 200 cigarettes or 250g of other tobacco products. OR 3 litres of wine and 200 cigarettes or 250g of other tobacco products.

The minimum age for bringing alcohol into Iceland is 20 years and for tobacco 18 years.

Despite the above regulations the Customs staff are relaxed and very helpful and an additional allowance may be granted to the master of the vessel. It is necessary to clear into AND out of Iceland.

Flag regulations and etiquette It is normal for yachts to fly their ensign and the Icelandic courtesy flag.

Entry and departure by public transport Flights International flights land at Keflavík, about 40km from Reykjavik. The “FlyBus” operates a regular service between Keflavík airport and Reykjavík. Icelandair www.icelandair.co.uk, BA and Easyjet fly to Keflavík from the UK. Some other airlines operate in summer.

Ferries www.smyrilline.com operates a weekly service from Hirtshals in Denmark to Seyðisfjörður via Torshavn. In the summer season this ferry is very busy and booking is essential.

Getting Around By Plane Air Iceland www.airiceland.is and Flugfélag Íslands provide a comprehensive service throughout Iceland.

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By Car A car offers great flexibility and numerous companies rent vehicles of all types. Costs vary but about ISK 4,000 will get a small car for the day. Driving is European style on the right. Many roads outside the major towns are not paved. Specific vehicles are required for areas of rough terrain. By Bus Long distance bus travel is available from various companies throughout Iceland but can be very expensive, similar too or more expensive than plane travel. Bus tours are also available to all the major tourist spots.

Publications Charts British Admiralty charts are available for the whole of the Icelandic coast and surrounding waters.

The Icelandic Hydrographic Office www.lhg.is publishes excellent charts. Icelandic charts can be obtained in the UK from Imray and the Todd Chart Agency www.toddchart.com in Bangor, N. Ireland. Harbour guides and pilot books The Arctic Pilot Volume II (NP 11) published by the British Admiralty in English covers the whole of Iceland but is somewhat out of date. Faroe Iceland Greenland by Willy Ker, this is now included in Arctic and Northern Waters by Andrew Wilkes published by RCC Pilotage Foundation/Imray www.imray.com in English. Leiðsögubók fyrir sjómenn við Ísland published in 1992 by the Icelandic Hydrographic Office www.lhg.is in Icelandic is full of photographs and plans but most are now very dated and of limited use. The lack of English is a very minor problem. Sjómanna Almanak published by Skerpla www.mbl.is in Reykjavík annually in Icelandic is full of useful information, harbour plans and aerial photographs. The Sjómanna Almanak can be purchased from chart agents in UK/Faroes or Iceland.

Guide books, maps, etc The Visit Iceland, http://www.visiticeland.com/ website has a vast amount of useful information. The Icelandic Topographical Survey publishes a series of detailed maps which can be obtained from various sources online. Iceland published by Lonely Planet Publications www.lonelyplanet.com

Buoyage There are almost no buoys in Icelandic waters except in the approaches to some harbours. Where buoys have been laid they follow the IALA Maritime Buoyage System A.

Radio services With the exception of certain deep VHF coverage is excellent. The operators are very helpful and speak fluent English.

Search and Rescue services The Icelandic Coast Guard are responsible for the Marine Rescue Co-ordination Centre and can be contacted on VHF Ch 16, DSC MMSI 0025 10100 or MF 2182kHz. Phone +354 511 3333. Email [email protected]. The MRCC has Search and Rescue helicopters available. The National Life Saving Association operates lifeboats around the coast; these will be familiar as they are all ex-RNLI lifeboats. In addition, there are many rescue huts dotted around the coast mainly in remote uninhabited areas. These huts are marked on Icelandic charts and most electronic charts, but their position is not always accurate. Strangely they do not always appear on British Admiralty charts.

Fishing Fishing in rivers and lakes is controlled by government regulations administered by local associations. It is best to contact the Tourist Information office for advice on local fishing availability. Once a river or lake fishery has been booked no further licence is required. Although commercial sea fishing is closely controlled there are no restrictions on a yacht taking a few fish. The most common catch is Cod, Haddock and Halibut. Stop in 10m and drop a line over the side, a fish will soon be hooked. Salmon fishing in salt water is forbidden. 11

Weather The Icelandic Meteorological Office provides excellent weather forecasts:- http://en.vedur.is/weather/shipping/text gives the weather in English for Icelandic areas. http://en.vedur.is gives a graphic representation of the winds around Iceland. Click on the chart “Vindaspa” and a wind chart for all of Iceland will be seen. To the left of this chart is a list of the Icelandic coastal areas, clicking on an area will give a more detailed chart of that area.

Radio There are various transmissions of the Icelandic Shipping forecast during the day. All are in Icelandic but if you listen carefully you can usually recognise the name of the sea area in which you are interested and pick up wind speeds (in m/sec). 1m/sec = approximately 2 knots. A recording device can make it easier to replay the forecast and identify each element.

Navtex Reykjavík Radio transmits regular Navtex messages in English on 518kHz. Navtex reception is generally very good in most areas. However, it is rather poor between Langanes and Djúpivogur. [R] = Saudanes, which covers North Iceland and [X] = Grindavik covering South Iceland.

Iceland shipping weather forecast areas

N Jan Mayen

70o N 1 Suðvesturmið (SW Banks) 2 Faxaflóamið (W Banks, S Part) 3 Breiðafjarðarmið (W Banks, N Part) 4 Vestfjarðamið (NW Banks) Norðurdjúp 5 Norðvesturmið (N Banks, W Part) (North Deepsea Banks) 6 Norðaustturmið (N Banks, E Part) 7 Austurmið (E Banks, N Part) 8 Austfjarðamið (E Banks, S Part) Greenlandsund 9 Suðausturmið (SE Banks) 5 4 6 7 Austurdjúp (E Deepsea Banks) 3 o Greenland Iceland 8 65 N 2 Færeyjadjúp 9

1 (Faroe Deepsea Banks)

Vesturdjúp (W Deepsea Banks) Deepsea (W

Faroe Suðvesturdjúp Suðurdjúp Suðausturdjúp Islands (SW Deepsea Banks) (S Deepsea Banks) (SE Deepsea Banks) 60o N

40o W 30o W 20o W 10o W 0Wo

Conservation of the Environment Public toilets are a rare commodity but can usually be found in supermarkets and shopping centres. Most towns have excellent swimming pools with toilets and showers at reasonable prices.

Holding tanks There is no specific Icelandic requirement for the fitting of holding tanks and there are no pump out facilities. Flushing toilets is illegal in harbours or close to land.

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General waste All harbours have waste disposal, usually a skip.

Services and Supplies Electricity Electricity is available in most harbours and is often free. Both the electricity supply and the sockets are compatible with European standards (AC 220 volts, 50 cycles). However, an extra long connection cable is a wise investment. Gas Butane gas is not available. Propane gas is readily available but the connections are not suitable for use with UK regulators. Icelandic standard Propane gas cylinders and regulators can be purchased in most towns at petrol stations. Fuel Petrol can only be obtained at petrol stations. Diesel pumps are available in most harbours but a special card is required to operate the pumps except in Reykjavík. To obtain diesel phone the fuel company using the number given on the fuel pump and they are very helpful but there may be a delay of several hours before someone arrives to dispense the fuel. Alternatively, for larger quantities, it is possible to get a road tanker to deliver direct into your vessel. The harbourmaster will help to arrange a fuel delivery.

Water Water is readily available and is of very good quality. Many water hoses are left running all the time to prevent freezing and some hoses are not even fitted with shut off valves.

Chandlery and repairs Some chandlery is available in Reykjavík. Elsewhere only equipment for fishing vessels will be found. Most if not all the harbours have companies which can undertake repairs in wood, steel and fibreglass as well as engine repairs and repairs to electronic equipment. There are no specialist yacht repairers and few sailmakers. However, tent and tarpaulin makers may be able to help with sail repairs.

Food and drink Eating out Outside Reykjavík and the main tourist resorts there are very few restaurants. However, a wide variety of fish and meat is now available. A vegetarian diet could be tricky to maintain in Iceland especially outside Reykjavík.

Alcohol Alcoholic drinks are very expensive, particularly in restaurants. Most supermarkets sell low strength beer. Spirits, wines and higher strength beers are available at the government-controlled outlets (ÁTVR) which are found in most towns.

Money The national currency is the Icelandic Krona (ISK). Cash is readily available from cash card machines in most harbours and credit/debit cards are widely accepted.

Telephone Iceland has an excellent telephone network. The international dial code is +354, if dialling out to, for example, Britain dial 00 44 plus the number required. Public telephones are quite rare. The GSM mobile phone system is very good. Icelandic SIM cards can be obtained from Siminn and Vodaphone. There are no roaming charges for European phones used in Iceland, however, fair use policies may apply. This can result in your service provider temporarily disconnecting your device.

Internet access Most towns have internet cafes with wifi which is usually free if buying a coffee. Both Siminn and Vodaphone can provide a dongle/MiFi to allow internet connection from your laptop. Speeds are excellent and coverage is good.

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Post Post Offices are located in about 70 towns around Iceland, they provide a full service similar to that in UK.

Medical and dental treatment Excellent medical and dental services are available in all major towns. Contact the harbourmaster for assistance. In the event of emergency call the coastguard on VHF Ch 16/ MMSI 0025 10100 or phone 112. The phone number 112 connects to police, fire and ambulance. The EHIC (European Health Insurance Card) card is valid in Iceland.

Sailing in Icelandic Waters Yachts venturing into Icelandic waters need to have a high degree of self sufficiency; there are no marinas, no yacht chandlers and few sailmakers outside Reykjavik. Engine, hull and electronic repairs can be undertaken in most harbours and sail repairs may be possible at tarpaulin makers. June, July and August are considered to be the best months for sailing in this area.

The South coast between Hornafjörður and Vestmannaejar is to be avoided, there are no harbours and no shelter for 150 miles. When choosing an arrival port bear in mind that the weather can deteriorate quickly and the visibility is often poor. Fog is an ever-present risk and can last for several days.

Iceland has more than its fair share of magnetic anomalies, these are marked on charts and can be quite strong (20 degrees) even in deep water (150m).

Many of the piers are deteriorating and may no longer have tyres. It is essential to carry plenty of good fenders and a stout fender board.

Crossings From the Faroe Islands Fuglafjórd to Djúpivogur - 250 NM. Fuglafjórd to Seyðisfjörður - 270 NM. Fuglafjórd to Vestmannaejar - 380 NM.

From Scotland Stornoway to Djúpivogur - 465 NM. Stornoway to Seyðisfjörður - 500 NM. Stornoway to Vestmannaejar - 535 NM. Stornoway to Reykjavik - 650 NM.

Currents

Two main currents affect the seas around Iceland. A warm current, part of the North Atlantic drift known as the Irminger Current, approaches Iceland from the South and flows North up the West coast and then East along the North coast. A cold current, part of the East Greenland Current, flows South West from Jan Mayen, part of the current flows down the coast of Greenland but some of the flow turns South and moves down the East coast of Iceland. Off the South coast an inshore current flows West towards Vestmannaeyjar. There is also a significant onshore current in this area.

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Jan Mayen

Greenland

East Icelandic Current

North Icelandic East Greenland Current 0.2-0.5kts 0.3-0.5kts Denmark Strait Irminger Current

Iceland

0.3-0.5kts

Irminger Current 0.2-0.5kts Faroe North Atlantic Drift Islands

Tides The tide floods round Iceland in a clockwise direction starting in the South West. The stream reaches speeds up to 3 knots in open water but in some areas off headlands and in confined channels it may be as much as 7 knots at springs. In certain locations the tide, when combined with unfavourable weather, can set up very unpleasant and dangerous seas. The tidal range varies greatly around the coast with a minimum of 1m in the east up to a maximum of nearly 5m in the west.

Wind The distribution of pressure over the North Atlantic with the Icelandic low to the South West of Iceland means that, where unobstructed by mountains and fjords, the wind direction is predominantly between North East and South East. Although West and North West winds are rare, especially in the West, they do occur on the East coast particularly round Raufarhöfn. In summer, sea breezes influence the wind direction considerably. Thunder is an extremely rare occurrence.

Laying-up Isafjord, in water and ashore. Akureyri, lift out and storage available. Reykjavik, in water or lift out. Most harbours can provide lift out in case of emergency. 15

Harbour and anchorage information

Hellisfjörður ð Neskaupstaður

Lodmundarfjörður Rey arfjörður

o

Borgarfjörður

Breiðalsvik

14W N

Berufjörður

Iceland

Langanes

o

Skoruvik

15W

Finnafjörður

Skalavik

Storholmi

Mjoifjörður

Eskifjörður

Seyðisfjörður

Höfn

Djúpivogur

Þorshöfn

Holsvik

o

Headof fjord

16W

Vopnafjörður

Raufarhöfn

o

17W

ópasker

Húsavik

K

Leirhöfn

o

Flatey

18W

Ólafsfjörður

o

19W

Dalvik

Grimsey

ð

o

Hey insfjörður

20W

Siglufjörður

o

21W

Hvammsey

Trékillisvik

Vestmannaeyjar

Eiðsvik

Ingolfsfjörður

Reykjavik

o

Leirufjörður

22W Hafnarfjörður

ó ó

Hrafnsfjörður

L nafjörður

Langeyri

Skarðstöð

Reykjanes

Grindavik

Skötufjörður

Aeðey Hornvik

Stikkish lmur

o

Akranes

Seyðisfjörður 23W

ótavik Grundarfjörður

Flj Flatey Suðavik

Elliðaey Garðskagi

Reykjanes

Keflavik

Arnarstapi

o

Isafjörður

24W

Stóra Sandvik Stóra

Vatnsfjörður

Aðalvik

Ólafsvik

Þingeyri

Suðureyri

Flateyri

Hesteyrarfjörður

Norðureyri

o

o

o

Arnarfjörður

Dynjandivogur

Hafnarmuli

66N

65N

64N Taknafjörður Patreksfjörður

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Vestmannaeyjar 63O 26’N 20O 16’W Harbourmaster/Pilot +354 893 0027 Named after the Irish slaves captured by the Norse Gaels, literally the “Westman” Islands. Berth in the Nausthamarsbryggja which is the first basin on the Port side. The pontoons are often fully occupied by local boats, but a berth can usually be found either on a pontoon or alongside a laid-up vessel. Shops, Customs (Office +354 569 1730, mobile +354 864 2825), internet café and restaurants/bars are a short walk from the pontoons. Water available; ask in harbour office for a hose to be delivered. Fuel available on pontoon; call Shell on +354 444 3181 or Harbourmaster for assistance. Dues are ISK 4,000 per stay; there is no limit to the length of stay! Take a walk to the South West of the town towards Eldfell and experience the lunar landscape left by the eruption in 1973. Take the tour boat round the island.

Vestmannaeyjar Harbour N

Ferry Berth Water Nausthamarsbryggja

Fuel

Electricity Photo

Vestmannaeyjar, Nausthamarsbryggja

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Grindavík 63O 50’N 22O 26’W An excellent port of refuge if Northerly winds mean Reykjanes should be avoided. In strong Southerly winds it may be better to avoid this harbour as the approach is somewhat exposed. Follow the leading lines up the dredged channel from the South (two flashing green lights near a red building). Once inside the breakwater turn to Starboard onto the second leading line (two orange triangles) and head for the pontoons at the East end of the harbour near the lifeboat. Beware, the South side of the harbour is rocky and shallow, proceed eastwards close to the fishing boat quays. Some shops and a restaurant a short walk from the pontoons. This is a busy fishing boat/trawler harbour. Call the harbourmaster on VHF Ch 14 BEFORE entering the approach channel; he will help with a berth. No dues charged.

The East side of Grindavík harbour, note the shallows to the right of the picture

Reykjanes - headland When rounding the headland keep less than one mile from the shore. In wind against tide conditions there will be broken water in this area. The North going flood tide is quite strong, the ebb is less so.

Reykjanes

Stóra Sandvík - Anchorage 63O 51’N 22O 42’W An excellent anchorage just North of Reykjanes. Good holding in 10m, exposed to the West. No facilities. 18

Garðskagi - headland When rounding this headland give it an offing of over one mile to avoid rocks and a tide race under certain conditions.

Keflavik 63O 59.9’N 22O 32.6’W Convenient for airport. Berth on tyre wall but beware of 3m tides. Dues 4,780 ISK for up to seven days (2017), no electricity.

Hafnarfjörður 64O 04’N 21O 58’W A busy fishing harbour with excellent facilities. Very friendly harbourmaster, call on VHF ch14 before entry, entrance channel is well buoyed. The inner harbour is very sheltered, but the Southern part is shallow. Shower, toilet and washing machine in the nearby sailing club. Buses to Reykjavik and Keflavik Airport. A very convenient arrival/departure port. No fees charged.

Harbour at Hafnarfjörður. Photo provided by Daniele and Daniel Kerfriden

Reykjavík 64O 09’N 21O 56’W Harbourmaster/Pilot, call “Pilot” on Ch12. Phone +354 552 8211, www.reykjavik.is Customs Reykjavik Officer on watch: +354 898 8493 An excellent sheltered harbour, contact harbourmaster for a berth or proceed to Brokey Yacht Club.

The Brokey Yacht Club (web: www.brokey.is email: [email protected] phone: +354 895 1551 is to Port as passing the breakwater, directly in front of the large glass concert hall. It has berths available for visitors who will be made very welcome. The main visitor space is a 40m floating pontoon, visiting boats can also use empty berths on the main pontoons beside the local boats. On arrival, contact the yacht club by calling +354 895 1551 to get access to the facilities. All berths have water and electricity. The pontoons are gated and locked. Fuel can be delivered by road tanker, to order diesel oil, call +354 5509933 between 07:00-18:00 on work days. The location is Ingólfsgarður (behind the concert hall). Diesel is also available from a pump directly across the harbour from the marina (see diagram below) but it does not accept normal credit cards. Ask the marina staff to help with this.

In 2020 the berthing charges were as follows:- 250 ISK per metre per day. Electric charge is 1,600 ISK per day.

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A shower and toilets are available in the clubhouse at no extra charge. The laundry room is on the north side of the clubhouse. There is no extra charge for use of washing machine or dryer, but users should supply their own detergent.

The clubhouse has one computer for guest use, there is also a wireless network which covers the area near the clubhouse.

To Starboard passing the breakwater are pontoon berths operated by the harbour authority which may be used if Brokey is full. Electricity is available but no water. The pontoons are gated; call “Pilot” on Ch 12 and someone from the harbour will come and unlock the gate. No fees charged. A fuel berth is close by but does not accept UK credit cards. Do not attempt to berth on the pontoons in the Austerhöfn, these berths are for tour boats only. Good supermarkets a short walk away, restaurants and bars, some chandlery. A good place to hire a car and tour the area.

Reykjavík Harbour

Supermarket N

Car Hire Fuel B erth

Grandabryggja Reykjavík Harbour Pontoons

Norðurgarður Photo

Vesturhöfn

Visiting Yachts

Reykja vík, Brokey Yacht Club Ingólfsgarður Austurhöfn Faxagarður

Thi s area for use by tour boats only

Co ncert hall Water

Fu el

Electricity

Brokey yacht club berths in front of the concert hall 20

Eiðsvik - Anchorage 64O 09’.60N 21O 48’.32W Good holding in 8.5m, black mud. No facilities. Provides a peaceful alternative to Reykjavík. There are several other anchoring possibilities in this area.

South West of Hvammsey - Anchorage 64O 22’N 21O 33’W Peaceful secluded anchorage with many anchoring options. Good holding in black mud/shell. No facilities. The current landlord has requested that his permission is asked before walking ashore.

Anchorage at Hvammsey Akranes 64O 19’N 22O 05’W Approach from the South East, the leading line can be hard to see: it is now a sectored light (red/white/green) located on a radio mast. The previous leading line consisting of two orange triangles has been demolished along with the old cement factory. An alternative approach is from the South West, this approach also now has a sectored light as well as orange triangles. Take care, the area is shoal. When abreast the entrance, turn to Port and enter the inner harbour, there is plenty of pontoon space. Note the large pontoon to Starboard is reserved. The pontoons are gated and locked; a key can be obtained from the harbourmaster who will probably come to welcome you. His office is in the blue and white building near the inner harbour. This pleasant town has supermarkets, a good baker, Vodaphone shop etc., the main shopping area is almost 1km away in the East side of the town. Electricity on pontoon. Fuel available at nearby pontoon, contact the Olis garage on +354 431 1164, water on fish dock. No fees charged.

Harbour at Akranes

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South East leading line South West leading line (Note:- the remains of the cement factory will soon be gone)

Arnarstapi – Anchorage 64O 46’.57N 23O 37’.14W A spectacular anchorage to the South of Snæfellsjökull, good holding in 14m. Protected from West and North, but rolly if wind has East in it! There is a small harbour which might be suitable for smaller yachts, limited facilities.

Anchorage at Arnarstapi with Snæfellsjökull in the background

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Harbour at Arnarstapi, photo provided by Geir Evjen

Ólafsvik 64O 54’N 23O 42’W This is a very busy fishing harbour; it may be possible to find a berth alongside a trawler with the permission of the harbourmaster, very sheltered. All facilities. No fee charged.

Harbour at Ólafsvik. Photo provided by Daniele and Daniel Kerfriden

Grundarfjörður – Anchorage 64O 55’.78N 23O 12’.94W Peaceful anchorage in South East corner of the fjord, some kelp.

Alternatively anchor in 12m off the harbour at 64O 55’.95N 23O 16’.35W. Beware, this bay shallows very suddenly at the 11m sounding at 64O 55’.94N 23O 16’.57W, the chart does not make this very clear!

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Kirkjufell off Grundarfjörður Grundarfjörður – Harbour 64O 55’N 23O 15’W The harbour is exposed to the South East and can be choppy at the entrance. A new pontoon suitable for yachts has been installed in the centre of the harbour. Most facilities available, WiFi at the nearby café, no electricity but water on the main quay, showers at the swimming pool 500 metres away.

Pontoon in Grundarfjörður, photo provided by Geir Evjen

Stykkisholmur 65O 04’.77N 22O 43’.66W A nice sheltered harbour. The pontoons are busy with local fishing boats, but the friendly harbour master can usually find space for a visiting yacht. Electricity may be available. Diesel at a nearby pontoon. Swimming pool with hot tub five minutes’ walk away, laundry at nearby campsite, good restaurants. Fees charged ISK 2,200 per day. (2015)

24

Stykkisholmur, photo provided by Geir Evjen

Sailing into Hvammsfjörður is not recommended without local knowledge. Current may reach 10 knots; entry can only be made at high water.

Elliðaey – Anchorage 65O 08’.5N 22O 48’.6W Sheltered anchorage in a submerged crater, good holding, some kelp. No facilities.

Skarðstöð – Anchorage 65O 17’.41N 22O 22’.76W The approach to this anchorage requires good visibility to discern the leading lines in the narrow channel between reefs. The following waypoints may be useful in poor visibility. 1. 65O 14’.53N 22O 37’.94W 2. 65O 15’.16N 22O 34’.51W 3. 65O 16’.03N 22O 29’.89W 4. 65O 17’.20N 22O 25’.15W 5. 65O 17’.41N 22O 22’.76W See sketch plan below:-

Skarðstöð Krokasker

15m 5m line

Liney Hrappsey

5m line

N 20m

20m

30m Skarðstöð

Anchor in 7m, good holding, some weed/kelp. There is a small harbour but there is less than 2m in the approach.

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Flatey – Anchorage 65O 22’N 22O 55’W There are several anchorages in this area, the traditional one is off the village in an old volcanic crater on the South side of Hafnarey, however, space is very limited due to moorings for local boats. The above position is for an alternative anchorage to the West of Hafnarey but it is somewhat exposed. Another possible anchorage lies off the ferry pier. Caution, this area has not been fully surveyed, charts do not cover this area in detail.

Anchorage in the old volcanic crater on Hafnarey

There is a passage North from Flatey towards Vatnsfjörður used by the ferry, but it is not charted. The South entrance to the channel is marked by Port and Starboard pillar buoys and is shallow and winding. The following waypoints give a guide to the safe route.

1. 65O 22’.46N 22O 56’.57W 2. 65O 22’.64N 22O 57’.05W 3. 65O 22’.80N 22O 57’.26W 4. 65O 22’.90N 22O 57’.48W 5. 65O 23’.15N 22O 58’.27W 6. 65O 23’.22N 22O 58’.55W 7. 65O 23’.52N 22O 59’.24W 8. 65O 24’.61N 23O 01’.29W 9. 65O 25’.69N 23O 03’.24W 10. 65O 26’.26N 23O 04’.17W 11. 65O 26’.91N 23O 04’.37W 12. 65O 27’.93N 23O 04’.77W 13. 65O 28’.88N 23O 05’.36W 14. 65O 29’.93N 23O 06’.71W

See sketch plan below:-

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Saudanes

Reykey

Boedvarsklettar Saudeyjar

Hrauneyjar

Hergilsey

N

Langey

Drapsker Kirkjusker

Hafnarey

Klofningur Flatey

Vatnsfjörður – Anchorage 65O 34’.07N 23O 09’.65W Anchor at the head of the fjord in 6m just South of the small island, good holding in mud. The fjord shoals off the river mouth to the SW of the island. In a shallow draught vessel it may be possible to anchor in 3.0m to the North of the island but swinging room is limited by a sand spit which crosses the bay effectively making two pools. The Western channel is very shallow and rock strewn and should not be attempted. However, the Eastern channel has a little over 2.0m and is clean. Keep slightly to the East shore to avoid a rocky outcrop from the NE corner of the island. Note the tidal range here is quite large, 4.0 ~ 5.0m.

Hafnarmuli - Anchorage 65O 35’.27N 24O 06’.81W A pleasant fine weather anchorage just West of Patreksfjörður. Anchor in 9m, facilities at Patreksfjörður.

Patreksfjörður 65O 36’N 24O 00’W This is a very busy fishing harbour, but a berth may be found. Take care to avoid the fish unloading area in the North East corner. Water is available on the pier and there is a fuel berth in the North West corner, but it is shallow. Good shops. No fees charged.

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If the harbour is full there is a very pleasant anchorage to the East of the harbour at 65O 35’.69N 23O 59’.60W. Anchor in 14m, mud/kelp. In 2017 there was too much kelp for safe anchoring.

Harbour at Patreksfjörður

Talknafjörður - Anchorage 65O 37’.9447N 23O 52’.1084W Anchor in the above position in 8m sand. Anchorage is also possible East of the eyri. The small harbour has limited space. Fuel at local garage, water on pontoon.

Arnarfjörður - Anchorage 65O 37’.619N 23O 28’.380W Anchor in the above position in 5m. Pool ashore fed by hot spring.

Dynjandivogur - Anchorage 65O 44’.351N 23O 13’.466W Anchor in the above position in 8.5m, good holding in sticky mud but a lot of kelp.

Þingeyri 65O 53’N 23O 30’W This used to be a busy fishing harbour used by many British trawlers. Today it is almost deserted, and you can have the whole quay to yourself. If interested in engineering visit the old foundry and workshop just up from the pier. Many a British trawler was repaired by this skilful engineer. Water on the pier, limited shops, a pleasant cafe and a restaurant in the hotel. No fees charged.

Harbour at Þingeyri 28

Flateyri 66O 02’.83N 23O 30’.592W The chart has limited detail but there appear to be no dangers in the fjord. The harbour is quite busy, but a berth can usually be found. Some supplies. No dues charged.

Suðureyri 66O 07’.60N 23O 31’.5W A small harbour close to the entrance of the fjord. The approach is shallow and strewn with rocks, but the channel is buoyed. Berth alongside against tyres, tidal range is about 3m. Water on the dock, fuel and supplies at the garage. No dues charged.

Norðureyri - Anchorage 66O 08’.2768N 23O 31’.8460W Anchor in the above position in 5m sand.

Isafjörður 66O 04’N 23O 07’W Beware of fish cages in the approaches on the West side of the fjord. This harbour offers perfect shelter and it would be possible to leave the boat here in the water or ashore for the winter. There is an outer harbour which is very busy with fishing and tour boats. It is better to use the pontoons in the inner harbour (Pollur). Follow the buoyed channel with leading lines to the South East of the town then turn North as you exit the channel. Go right to the North end of the trawler dock and turn to Starboard where there is a yacht pontoon, the old steel pile pier has been faced with timber and is now a suitable yacht berth. It is possible to anchor almost anywhere in the Pollur and the harbour authority have laid moorings North of the yacht pontoon. A facilities block is planned. All facilities, electricity and water on the pontoon, fuel in the outer harbour or ask the harbourmaster to arrange a road tanker. Excellent bakery, internet café and supermarket. Fuel call +354 894 0346, they will send someone to the fuel berth. Customs office +354 569 1715 or mobile +354 898 1688

This harbour is a good base from which to explore the surrounding fjords, they are a cruising area in their own right. Regular flights to Reykjavík. Fee is ISK 7,300 for three days including electricity (2019).

Internetcafé

Ísafjörður Harbour N Tourist Photo Information Yacht Pontoon Inner Harbour

Pollur from Buoyedfjord Channel main Harbour Master

Main Trawler Berths

Outer Harbour

Wate r

Fuel

Electricity

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Pontoon at Isafjörður

Suðavik 66O 02’.25N 22O 59’.10W A small harbour in the next fjord to the east of Isafjörður, very busy with fishing boats. The fjord is cluttered with fishing cages, and the anchorage behind the eyri in front of the abandoned station (just over a mile to the south of the harbour) is now completely obstructed with partly dismantled cages and other debris.

Seyðisfjörður - Anchorage 66O 00’.36N 22O 55’.58W Not much detail on the chart but the centre of the fjord is deep, beware of fish cages. Anchor behind the eyri on the West side of the fjord at approximately the above position in 13m. Superb views of the mountain Hestur. It is also possible to anchor at the head of the fjord at 65O 58’.1681N 22O 54’.9262W in 7m gravel. No facilities.

Skötufjörðdur - Anchorage 65O 59’.95N 22O 47’.27W This is a long deep fjord, but little detail is shown on most charts. Good anchorage can be found at the above position on the East side of the fjord in 14m. Good holding, mud. No facilities.

Reykjanes - Anchorage 65O 56’.027N 22O 25’.568W This anchorage is only possible in settled weather. Anchor in the above position in 7m. Spring fed hot pool at hotel.

Aeðey - Anchorage 66O 06’N 22O 39’.5W There is little detail on the chart, however anchorage can be found to the West of the island at 66O 06’.1166N 22O 40’.1359W in 10m. If entering the pool to the East of the island, care is required. From the South beware of a rock awash 200m South East of the lighthouse. From the North West head for 66O 06’.7559N 22O 39’.3593W then head for 66O 06’.6330N 22O 38’.7532W. This route is best taken around high water by a yacht with less than 2m draught. Anchorage is possible at 66O 06’.3207N 22O 36’.2876W in 4m mud or 66O 06’.3060N 22O 38’.9387W in 4.6m.

Leirufjörður - Anchorage 66O 14’.15N 22O 35’.13W Access to this fjord is something of a challenge as there is a rocky bar across the entrance. As a guide the following may be useful; approach up the main fjord from the East and head for the 30

position 66O 15’.00N 22O 34’.75W, turn South and sound your way in heading for 66O 14’.47N 22O 34’.97W. This track should have 4m at the shallowest part. Anchor in 12m at the above position on the West side of the fjord. There is an alternative anchorage at the head of the fjord at 66O 13’.3241N 22O 33’.8841W in 10m hard mud. The reward for your efforts is a fabulous view of Drangajokull glacier. No facilities.

Hrafnsfjörður - Anchorage 66O 16’.15N 22O 22’.68W This fjord has not been charted. The following waypoints will lead safely to the head of the fjord. 1. 66O 15’.56N 22O 33’.15W Depth 16.0m 2. 66O 15’.47N 22O 32’.00W Depth 12.0m 3. 66O 15’.44N 22O 31’.31W Depth 12.0m 4. 66O 15’.51N 22O 29’.46W Depth 31.0m 5. 66O 15’.64N 22O 27’.67W Depth 28.2m 6. 66O 15’.88N 22O 25’.84W Depth 32.0m 7. 66O 16’.02N 22O 24’.94W Depth 13.5m 8. 66O 16’.05N 22O 24’.30W Depth 11.0m 9. 66O 16’.02N 22O 23’.56W Depth 6.0m 10. 66O 16’.12N 22O 23’.12W Depth 6.8m 11. 66O 16’.15N 22O 22’.68W Depth 5.5m See sketch plan below:-

Lónafjörður

Large boulders 25m

70m

24m 40m 6m Hrafnsfjörður

3.5m

N Leirufjörður

Good holding in 5m, mud, kelp. The head of the fjord is strewn with very large boulders, DO NOT GO East of 22O 22’.57W. No facilities. Whilst the pilotage into this fjord is testing the views make it all worthwhile, see below.

Anchorage at Hrafnsfjörður, note the boulders in the water. Photo provided by David Kubal

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Anchorage at Hrafnsfjörður, note the boulders in the water. The red building is a rescue hut

Lonafjörður – Anchorage 66O 16’.8N 22O 34’.5W There is very little detail on the chart, but the fjord appears clean. Good anchorage can be had at the following locations:- 66O 18’.5092N 22O 27’.8507W in 5m, some kelp. 66O 19’.5399N 22O 30’.0382W in 7.5m.

Langeyri – Anchorage 66O 21’.10N 22O 39’.80W Secluded anchorage in 6.5m behind the Langeyri spit. The fjord is shallow near the spit but deepens and appears clean. There is an alternative anchorage at the head of the fjord at 66O 21’.5734N 22O 36’.5544W in 11m. No facilities.

Anchorage at Langeyri

Hesteyrarfjörður – Anchorage 66O 21’.73N 22O 47’.20W Anchor at the head of the fjord in 12m, good holding in thick mud. Beautiful scenery, abundant birdlife and tranquillity! There is an alternative anchorage near the entrance to the fjord at 66O 19’.9387N 22O 51’.9398W in 5m sand. No facilities.

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Anchorage at Hesteyrarfjörður

Aðalvík/Latravík - Anchorage 66O 23’.12N 23O 02’.22W Anchor in the above position in 9m. No facilities. Exposed to the West/South West.

Aðalvík/Saeból - Anchorage 66O 20’.8045N 23O 05’.0666W Anchor in the above position in 8m. No facilities. Exposed to the North West.

Anchorage at Aðalvík/Saeból

Fljótavík - Anchorage 66O 27’.2603N 22O 56’.1582W The chart has limited detail, but the fjord appears clean and shelves gently to the beach. Anchor in the above position in 7m. No facilities.

Anchorage at Fljótavík

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Hornvík - Anchorage 66O 25’.69N 22O 29’.06W Anchor in the above position in 5m, sand. Take care on approach, just to the North of this position is a reef which is not shown in detail on the charts. However, the reef does provide some additional shelter from the North once anchored. In 2018 there was a mooring buoy in this position but there is still room to anchor. It is possible to anchor on the East side of the fjord, however the bottom appears foul with boulders in places.

Anchorage at Hornvík

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22o 29.4’W 22o 29.0’W 22o 28.6’W

66o 26.0’N

N

10m Hornvik

10m

5m

66o 25.5’N

Ingolfsfjörður – Anchorage 66O 01’.3468N 21O 38’.2521W There is very little detail of this fjord on the chart. However, the rocks running NNW off Munaðarnes are clearly shown. Give them a wide berth and head for 66O 05’.63N 21O 39’.06W, from here steer due South for 66O 02’.47N 21O 37’.05W. This route takes you safely into the fjord in deep water and in clear conditions two leading marks consisting of yellow painted stones above a rocky outcrop on the hill in front of you. Stay roughly in the centre of the fjord as it curves round to the right and identify the old factory. Head towards the East shore a little South of the factory and anchor in the above position in 13m. Do not approach the shore North of the factory as a gravel spit protrudes into the fjord. If going ashore in the dinghy beware of the old pier by the factory, it is in ruins and there are many projections underwater. The factory is now home to arctic terns and they will defend their nests with vigour! This is a very sheltered anchorage full of wildlife. There is a small harbour in the South West corner of the fjord where smaller yachts may find a berth. No facilities.

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Leading marks, photo provided by Helen Gould

The anchorage at Ingolfsfjörður

Trékillisvík/Nordurfjord – Anchorage 66O 02’.93N 21O 33’.43W An attractive and well-sheltered anchorage. Anchor in the above position in 6.5m, good holding in mud. No facilities. The nearby fishing boat harbour may have room for a yacht, but it is shallow, and space is limited. The pier has about 6m alongside and would be a reasonable berth in good conditions.

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Small fishing harbour is shallow and busy, limited space

Pier

Trékillisvík/Árnesey – Anchorage 66O 01’.2151N 21O 29’.9128W This is a fair weather anchorage to the South West of Árnesey island. A beautiful location, abundant seals and birds, but great care is needed as there is little detail on the charts and the area is strewn with reefs. From the north head for 66O 01’.629N 21O 30’.381W then turn towards 66O 01’.2151N 21O 29’.9128W and anchor in 9m at this point. Bottom is mud/sand with some kelp, exposed to the North/North East.

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21o 30.5’W 21o 30.0’W 21o 29.5’W

N

o Arnesey 66 01.3’N Trekilsvik

7m

7m

7m

66o 01.0’N

2m 2m

o 66 00.9’N

Siglufjörður 66O 09’N 18O 54’W Take great care in the approach as the area is liable to sudden very strong gusts off the mountains. A busy fishing harbour but a berth can usually be found. The small boat harbour is crowded, there is usually a gap on the East side, but it is very shallow. Water on the pier, fuel and good shops. Fee is ISK 3,000 per night including electricity (2015). The pontoon by the new hotel is reputedly very expensive. It is possible to anchor in 5m at 66O 08.758’N 18O 53.862’W.

Harbour at Siglufjörður. Photo provided by Daniele and Daniel Kerfriden 38

Heðinsfjörður - Anchorage 66O 08’.1186N 18O 47’.0303W Anchor in the above position in 9m. Exposed to the North, no facilities. A beautiful spot but can be rolly.

Ólafsfjörður 66O 05’N 18O 39’W A small and quiet fishing town at the head of the fjord. Beware of shallow areas inside the harbour, berth alongside the tyre wall in North East corner of the outer harbour in 6m. The inner harbour is busy with small fishing boats. Limited shops, bank. 3,000 ISK per night including electricity (2018).

Harbour at Ólafsfjörður Dalvik - Anchorage 65O 58’.8678N 18O 31’.1608W Anchor in the above position in 8m. This position is just North of Dalvik harbour breakwater.

Grímsey 66O 32’N 18O 02’W A busy fishing harbour, there is usually space in the outer harbour, but it is subject to swell and wash from passing boats. Try to find a spot in the inner harbour. Water on the quay and diesel is available, contact the . There is a small but well stocked shop on the hill above the harbour. Dues 3,000 ISK per night including electricity (2017).

Harbour at Grímsey

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Flatey 66O 09’N 17O 51’W A small island 14 miles North West of Húsavík. It is possible to anchor off in settled weather in approximate position 66O 09’.43N 17O 51’.34W see plan below. Using the plan the small harbour may be entered following the leading line. Tie up on the North side of the floating pontoon. Most of the houses are for summer use only, there are no facilities, but the people are very friendly. If walking ashore hold a stick above your head to fend of the birds!

Photo provided by Daniel Kerfriden

Flatey Island Sketch plan provided by Daniel Kerfriden Photo Tie up here N 1.8/2.0m at low water

Leading marks

1m Floating pontoon 1.8m

20m Mud 1.7m 3m 2.5m 1m Sandy beach Quay

4m Shallow

2m 4m Pier, no ladder and no tyres. 3m

Anchorage 5m 4m, kelp/sand 5m

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Pontoon in Flatey. Photo provided by Daniel Kerfriden

Pier in Flatey. Photo provided by Philippe Pellerin

Húsavík 66O 03’N 17O 21’W This harbour is busy with fishing boats and whale watching vessels. There are several pontoons in the inner harbour, but these are usually fully occupied by fishing boats and the whale watching vessels. The South quay underwent major reconstruction in 2013 and it is now the best berth for a yacht. Keep to the West of the two cranes used for unloading the fishing boats. Water and electricity on the quay. Diesel is available, contact the harbourmaster or oil company (Olis 464 1040). Good shopping, restaurants and a sailmaker, this is a major tourist destination. In 2019 dues were being charged at 2,000 ISK per night.

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Húsavík. Photo provided by Daniel Kerfriden

Harbour at Húsavík

Kópasker 66O 18’N 16O 27’W The approach to the harbour is not shown in detail on most charts. A shallow area projects south of the breakwater for about 100m, the south east edge of this area is marked by a red buoy (66O 17’.7844N 16O 26’.6478W). In poor visibility approach on about 260 O M heading for 66O 17’.7095N 16O 26’.7443’W. There are three sets of leading lines; the first is two stone beacons with red lights, one on the shore, the other some distance inland. (068 O) The inland beacon is partially obscured by a white farm building with a curved roof, the beacon is just to the left of this building. The second is two white triangles with green lights located beside a large yellow building with a blue roof. (006 O) The third is two red triangles with red lights located on the grey building north of the main pier. (331 O) Most yachts will berth on the main pier which has about 4m at the south end. The small boat harbour has limited space but seems deep enough (2m?). Water on the pier, small shop with liquor store, bank, post office. When visited in 2018 the harbour was almost deserted! No dues charged.

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Kópasker main pier

Kópasker small boat harbour

Leirhöfn – Anchorage 66O 25’.08N 16O 30’.75W This approach is not for the faint hearted and should only be undertaken in clement weather with good visibility! High Water equals HW Húsavík + 20 minutes. Approach from the West at about 66O 27’.20N and identify a large yellow fuel tank/beacon on the shore just North of Kilsnes. Follow this line towards the shore until about 16O 33’.36W and alter course onto 144O. The first set of large stone beacons should now be seen on the shore in front of you. Keep steering 144O to about 66O 26’.040N 16O 31’.203W, you will be very near the beach at this point! Identify the second set of markers (posts with white triangles) to Port and alter course onto 212O (back bearing 032O). At this point there is only about two metres at low water. Hold this course for a short time to about 66O 25’.833N 16O 31’.552W and identify the third set of markers on the South shore of the bay (posts with red triangles) these marks can be hard to see, they are just to the right of a white house with a red roof, alter course onto 156O. Anchor in about 3m in the South end of the bay.

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The large yellow fuel tank/beacon

The first set of stone beacons

The second set of markers

The third set of markers in the south end of the bay

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16o 31.5’W 16o 31.0’W

N 144o

Leirhofn 66o 26.1’N

2.5m

3.5m

2.5m

66o 26.0’N

2.4m

212o 2.4m

66o 25.94’N

The approach to Leirhöfn provided by Andrew and Janice Fennymore-White 45

Raufarhöfn 66O 27’N 15O 56’W Follow the buoyed channel/leading lines past the main berths and into the small boat harbour in the North corner. The old pontoon which used to run East/West has been moved to the East side of the harbour, this area is a little shallow but some of the pontoons may be vacant and suitable for a yacht. Note that the southern breakwater has also been extended to the north. The best berth is now on the wooden quay below the church and East of the lifeboat. If there is no room in the small boat harbour then berth alongside the second pier on the port side on entering, it has good tyres and is rarely used. Water on quay, small shop, limited facilities, excellent restaurant in the hotel. No fees charged.

Small boat harbour at Raufarhöfn – looking North

Small boat harbour at Raufarhöfn – looking South. Photo provided by Frank and Karla Bahren

Holsvik - Anchorage 66O 25’.1N 15O 54’.2W This anchorage should only be contemplated in settled conditions. Anchor in the above position in 5m sand, some kelp.

Þorshöfn 66O 12’N 15O 20’W A very friendly but busy fishing harbour, berth alongside tyre wall as directed by harbourmaster. There is a pontoon in the North of the harbour which has about 3m at the outer end, but it is likely

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to be full of fishing boats. Small supermarket, restaurant/bar and swimming pool, good walks. Water and diesel available on the dock. No fees charged. It is possible to anchor off in settled weather in position 66O 11’.32N 15O 20’.54W in 10m, exposed to the NNW.

Harbour at Þorshöfn

Skoruvik - Anchorage 66O 21.96’N 14O 45.62’W A fair weather anchorage with some shelter from the South. Anchor in the above position in about 8m. Good holding in sand/ash. Bird cliffs to the west.

Langanes - headland 66O 23’N 14O 32’W Langanes is the North Eastern tip of Iceland and has a poor reputation due to fog and the Röst which can extend far out to sea. It is best rounded at slack water close to the cliffs. Following the 10m contour takes you round at about ¼ mile off the shore. Slack water equates to Húsavík + approximately 45 minutes.

Langanes, the North Eastern tip of Iceland

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Finnafjörður/Gunnolfsvik - Anchorage 66O 07’.74N 15O 08’.62W Situated 22 miles South West of Langanes, this anchorage provides good holding in 14m. No facilities, exposed to the SE.

Vopnafjörður 65O 45’N 14O 49’W Excellent shelter, pick up the leading line then follow the buoyed channel. Continue North in the channel past all the main fish berths and round the East end of the quay running almost East /West. Turn West towards the lifeboat there is usually space to lie on the pontoon across from the lifeboat or on the wooden pier. There is a small boat harbour in the North West corner, but this is very full. Fuel, water and electricity on pontoon, supermarket, bank, café with wifi. Fees payable 9,000 ISK per week including electricity (2015). However, in 2017, 2018 and 2019 no fees were requested! Excellent walks in the hills above the harbour.

Pontoon at Vopnafjörður

Bakkagerði/Borgarfjörður - Anchorage 65O 32’N 13O 48’W A small harbour with limited space and exposed to the North. But good shelter reported on South side of concrete pier. There is about 6m at low water on the outer end of the pier, no tyres!

The old pier at Bakkagerði 48

There is reasonable anchorage East of the harbour in 8m at 65O 31’.53N 13O 46’.47W. Holding is excellent and well sheltered from South, some swell when wind is from north or east.

View from the anchorage in Borgarfjörður

There is a new fishing boat harbour at 65O 32’.46N 13O 45’.34W. This is a small harbour behind a rocky promontory. Good shelter but limited space, leading line to the entrance is two white triangles. Recent reports (2018) suggest that the harbourmaster does not like yachts in the harbour!

The new harbour in Borgarfjörður (Hafnarholmi)

Loðmundarfjörður - Anchorage 65O 21’.66N 13O 49’.89W Anchor in the above position in 9m, sand. Exposed to the east.

Seyðisfjörður 65O 16’N 14O 00’W This is a major port and ferry terminal. The best berths are on the first old wooden pier near the head of the fjord on the East side, but its condition is deteriorating. Please note the second old pier, beyond the slipway, is private. There is a small boat harbour in the South East corner, but it is very small, shallow and crowded. Water on pier, fuel is available from a fuel berth North of the wooden piers, contact the harbourmaster, it is necessary to pay him cash. Good supermarket and some restaurants. Fees payable 2,000 ISK per day (2015).

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Note:- There are often thick globules of oil present in this harbour, it is leaking slowly from the World War Two wreck (El Grillo) further out in the fjord.

Seyðisfjörður Harbour

N

Harbour masters office Yacht Berths on wooden quay

Slipway and old shipyard

Photo Private

Water RoRo Berth Small Boat Possible Yacht Berth Ferry Harbour Fuel Terminal Supermarket Electricity

Wooden piers in Seyðisfjörður

Mjóifjörður 65O 12’N 13O 51’W This fjord was home to a large fish farm however, the farm has now gone. There is a small pier at Brekka on the north shore where a yacht may lie in settled conditions. To the west of the pier is a small boat harbour but it is crowded and shallow. The fjord is steep too and provides little opportunity for anchoring.

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Neskaupstaður/Norðfjörður 65O 08’.80N 13O 41’.24W This position refers to the old harbour which consists of a large steel/concrete pier and an old wooden pier which has recently been refurbished. The wooden pier is the best to lie alongside but is exposed and uncomfortable in easterly winds. The tyres on the large pier are in poor condition but the most sheltered berth is on the west side of this pier. A good fender board is essential! Electricity on both piers, good supermarket, fuel at the petrol station which has a small wooden jetty. Take care going alongside the jetty as it appears to have only about 2m at high water.

The old harbour at Neskaupstaður/Norðfjörður

The wooden pier at Neskaupstaður/Norðfjörður 65O 08’.29N 13O 44’.05W The new harbour is at the head of the fjord about 1.5 miles to the west. This harbour is built for large fishing vessels and is not really suitable for yachts, however, the harbourmaster can usually find a berth in poor weather (+354 477 1333). The main harbour is subject to swell entering from the fjord, the small boat harbour is on the left on entering the main harbour and is very sheltered. It is busy and shallow in places but a berth may be found.

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The new harbour at Neskaupstaður/Norðfjörður

The small boat harbour inside the new harbour at Neskaupstaður/Norðfjörður

The small boat harbour

Hellisfjörður - Anchorage 65O 06.56’N 13O 41.28’W Anchor in the above position in 7m, good holding in mud, some kelp. Better shelter than the chart suggests behind the spit.

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Eskifjörður 65O 04’.50N 14O 01’.55W A berth can ussually be found in the basin at the head of the fjord. The best spot is close to the outer end on the right on entering (see photo). Here the tyres are double and there is little risk of being trapped under them. However, in certain conditions with wind coming up the fjord the swell enters this basin and bounces off the walls giving a very uncomfortable motion. Further down the fjord two or three old wooden piers are being restored and a yacht may lie alongside them in suitable conditions. The first pier on the right on entering (65O 03’.88N 14O 00’.13W) is fully restored with wooden facing right down to the low water mark and 5m alongside at low water. There is a grey metal clad guesthouse immediately behind it. This pier belongs to the local boat club. The small boat harbour is too shallow for most yachts. Limited facilities, good supermarket, Customs office +354 569 1710 or mobile +354 892 0610, email:[email protected] Water on pier, fuel by arrangement with harbourmaster. No harbour dues.

Eskifjörður basin

Restored wooden pier in Eskifjörður

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Reyðarfjörður Beware of fish farms, there are two on the Starboard side going up the fjord and one just west of Grima light. All are well marked by yellow can buoys.

Stórhólmi – Anchorage 65O 02’.29N 14O 02’.12W Anchor in the above position in 10m, good holding in mud. A beautiful spot in a nature reserve only slightly spoilt by the proximity of the new aluminium smelter. It is also possible to anchor east of the islands depending upon conditions, the chart has little detail to the east.

Stórhólmi – Anchorage Breiðalsvík – Anchorage 64O 47’.30N 13O 59’.54W There is a small harbour, there is room for two yachts on the outside of the inner wooden pier, but the tyres are in a very poor state. There is good anchorage in 11m at the above position.

Berufjörður Beware two fish farms on south west side of fjord above Djúpivogur.

Head of Fjord – Anchorage 64O 46’.98N 14O 28’.48W Anchor in the above position in 12.5m, good shelter. Beautiful spot with many toy like farms.

Head of Fjord – Anchorage 54

Skálavic – Anchorage 64O 45’.05N 14O 23’.03W Anchor at the above position in 16m, exposed to the south. Note:- In 2017 there was a small unlit fish farm in the middle of the entrance.

Skálavic – Anchorage

Anchorage can also be found at 64O 42’.1797N 14O 18’.8556W in 7m sand and 64O 40’.1278N 14O 18’.7676W in 6m sand.

Djúpivogur 64O 40’N 14O 17’W Follow the buoyed channel into the harbour. The main pier is to Starboard, and a berth may be found on it, otherwise try the new wooden pier or the pontoons beyond. All facilities. If Customs are required call their Eskifjörður office on +354 569 1710 or mobile +354 892 0610. Fees payable €10 per day (2017).

Djupivogur Harbour

N

6m

Fuel Pontoon

Leading Line

Harbourmaster

5m

Tires

Toilet Pontoon

3m Restaurant Wooden pier

3m Police/ Fishing boat Customs pontoons

Water

Electricity Supermarket Restaurant

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Pontoons in Djúpivogur

Höfn 64O 15’N 15O 12’W This is not a port of refuge in poor weather conditions. A good engine is essential. The entrance is tortuous with tight turns, shifting sands and tide up to 10 knots. In suitable weather approach at slack water, use HW/LW Reykjavik, follow the marked channel into the harbour. For detailed information on local conditions contact the harbourmaster on VHF Ch 12 or +354 895 2042.

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The Faroe Islands

The Country The physical conditions The Faroe Islands consist of 18 major islands located about 400 miles West of Norway between the Norwegian Sea and the North Atlantic Ocean. Located roughly halfway between Norway and Iceland the islands have a total area of 1,400 square kilometres stretching from approximately 66o 23’.5N to 61o 20’N and 06o 14’W to 07o 41’W. The islands are rugged and the coastline mostly cliffs. The highest peak is 882m above sea level.

The climate is sub polar oceanic warmed by the North Atlantic Current. The coast remains ice free throughout the year. Temperatures in summer are cool, 9.5oC to 10.5oC and in Winter the average is 3.0oC to 4.0oC. The islands are windy, cloudy and cool throughout the year with about 260 days of rain per year, they lie in the path of depressions moving Northeast so strong winds and rain can occur at any time. Fog is also a regular feature.

The wild life The Faroes have a large bird population, mainly sea birds and those attracted to open heathland. Many species have developed sub-species unique to the Faroe Islands. There are no native “wild animals” on land but hares, rats and mice thrive. In the sea there are Grey Seals and several species of cetacean.

The people, their language and their education Approximately 50,000 people live in the Faroe Islands, of this number 92% are Faroese. The original population was of Nordic and Gaelic origin; broadly speaking the men were from Norway and the women from Ireland/Scotland.

Faroese and Danish are the official languages of the Faroe Islands. Faroese is a Germanic language descended from Old Norse and in written form is similar to Icelandic. However, spoken Faroese is very different from Icelandic and bears more resemblance to the dialects found on the West coast of Norway. English is also widely spoken.

Compulsory education begins at seven years of age and lasts for 9 years. Primary school grades 1-7 and lower secondary school grades 8-10. Upper secondary school is available in the islands but many students travel to Denmark for higher education and university. There is a university in Tórshavn which works closely with those in Denmark.

History The Faroes were first settled in the 6th century by monks from Ireland, later in about 850 Norsemen settled the islands. At the beginning of the 11th century Sigmundur Brestirson arrived from Norway to take possession of the islands for Olaf Tryggvason the King of Norway. Sigmundur introduced Christianity and Norwegian taxation. Norway ruled the Faroes until 1380 when Norway entered the Kalmar Union with Denmark, which eventually resulted in control of the islands passing to Denmark. The reformation reached the Faroes in 1538. When the union between Denmark and Norway was dissolved after the Treaty of Kiel in 1814, Denmark retained possession of the Faroes. In 1856 the trade monopoly in the Faroe Islands ended leading the development of the islands as a modern fishing nation. Moves towards a national identity started in 1888 and by 1906 Faroese political parties had been formed. In April 1940 British troops occupied the islands with the objective of securing British control of the North Atlantic after the occupation of Denmark by German forces. At the end of the war control of the islands reverted to Denmark but by 1948 home rule was introduced bringing a degree of local autonomy. The Faroe Islands did not follow Denmark into European Community in 1973, by 1990 the

57 fishing industry was in severe decline and efforts were made to diversify the economy. Today support for the Republican Party is growing with the objective of achieving full independence from Denmark. The Faroe Islands are a dependency of Denmark, they are not part of the European Union and they are not in Schengen.

Religion The Faroese People’s Church, a form of Lutheranism, is the state church of the Faroe Islands and about 85% of the population are members.

Public Holidays New Year’s Day Maundy Thursday Good Friday Easter Sunday Easter Monday Flag Day Prayer Day Ascension Day Whit Sunday Whit Monday Constitution Day St. Olav’s Day St Olav’s Day – The National Festival Christmas Eve Christmas Day Boxing Day New Year’s Eve.

Time The Faroe Islands use UT (GMT) in Winter and UT (GMT) +1 in Summer. Summer-time is from the last Sunday in March to the last Saturday in October.

Documents Required Passport Vessel Registration document Radio Licence EHIC (European Health Insurance Card) is valid in the Faroes.

Import of alcohol and tobacco The following duty free allowances apply:-

1 litre of spirits (maximum 60% alcohol) AND 1 litre of fortified wine or other beverage (maximum 22% alcohol by volume) or 2 litres of table wine AND 2 litres of beer (maximum of 5,8% alcohol) AND 100 cigarettes OR 100 cigarillos OR 50 cigars OR 250 grams of tobacco.

It is also permitted to import:- perfume up to 50 gr. aftershave 25 cl. chocolate/sweets 3 kg. fizzy drinks 10 litres.

The minimum age for bringing alcohol and tobacco into the Faroe Islands is 18 years.

Despite the above regulations the Customs staff are very relaxed and very helpful and an additional allowance may be granted to the master of the vessel.

Flag regulations and etiquette It is normal for yachts to fly their ensign and the Faroese courtesy flag.

Entry and departure by public transport Flights , the national airline, flies several times daily to the Faroe Islands. For more information, see www.atlantic.fo/en. There is also a service from Scandinavian Airlines, see www.flysas.com/us-en/. There is a direct bus service between the airport and Tórshavn in connection with arrival and departure times.

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Ferries The Faroese shipping company Smyril Line, operates an all year cruise and car ferry service with regular sailings to the Faroe Islands from Iceland and Denmark. Contact the head office for more information about timetables, brochures and international sales agents or visit www.smyrilline.com

Getting Around A well-developed, national system of roadways and ferries connects most towns and in the Faroes and is operated by .

By Car Car rental is available in some towns. Driving is European style on the right. Note that many tunnels have Tolls.

By Bus The inter-town bus system (Bygdaleiðir) operates daily to most areas. The buses are blue in colour. A comprehensive schedule (Ferðaætlan), listing the various timetables for the inter-town buses and ferries can be obtained from the tourist office, at www.ssl.fo as well as the central bus station near the harbour in Tórshavn. Tórshavn has an efficient local bus service (Bussleiðin) with four routes that reach most areas of the town. The red-coloured buses operate every half-hour during the day and hourly in the evening and Saturday mornings. , Hvítanes, and Kollafjørður are also included in the local bus service. Route maps and schedules can be obtained on the buses, at Kiosk Steinatún in the centre of town, or at Kunningarstovan. It is free to travel on the red town buses.

By Helicopter Atlantic Airways offers a helicopter service to selected towns and villages throughout the Faroes. Contact Atlantic Airways directly on phone no. 341060. Booking is required

Publications Charts British Admiralty charts are available for the Faroe Islands. Danish charts are also available and at a slightly larger scale, they can be purchased in UK from Imray www.imray.com, they are also available from Jacobsen’s bookshop in Tórshavn.

Harbour guides and pilot books The North Coast of Scotland Pilot (NP52) published by the British Admiralty in English includes the Faroes. Faroe Iceland Greenland by Willy Ker, this is now included in Arctic and Northern Waters by Andrew Wilkes published by RCC Pilotage Foundation/Imray www.imray.com in English.

Streymkort fyri Føroyar (Tidal Stream Atlas for Faroe) edited by Fischer Heinesen. The Almanakki is a comprehensive local almanac with a wide range of useful information and is an essential companion to the Tidal Stream Atlas. Both the Tidal Stream Atlas and the Almanakki can be obtained from H. N. Jacobsens Bókahandil, Vaglid, Box 55, FO 100 Tórshavn, Faroe Islands. Phone:- +298 311 036, e-mail:- [email protected]. Web:- www.hnj.fo or www.bokhandil.fo.

Guide books, maps, etc., The Faroe Islands tourist guide, www.faroeislands.com website has a vast amount of useful information. Iceland published by Lonely Planet Publications www.lonelyplanet.com has one chapter which partly covers the Faroe Islands.

Buoyage There are almost no navigation buoys in the Faroe Islands except in the approaches to some harbours.

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Radio Services There is good VHF coverage throughout the islands. Call “Tórshavn Radio” preferably on the appropriate working channel (see below) stating the channel used or on 16.

VHF Working channels:- South - Suðuroy - VHF Channel 23 Northeast - - VHF Channel 24 West - Mykines - VHF Channel 25 Central - Tórshavn - VHF Channel 26

Search and Rescue services The Faroese Government is responsible for the SAR service in Faroese waters. The Marine Rescue Co-ordination Centre (MRCC) in Tórshavn operates under the authority of the Ministry of and Maritime Affairs and can be contacted on VHF Ch 16. Phone +298 35 13 00. Web www.MRCC.fo. It is responsible for providing marine rescue service in Faroese waters. Normal operations cover an area of 200 miles from the coastline.

The Faroese Inspection and Rescue Service (V&B) has two coast guard vessels and patrol boats. The ships are fully equipped with modern navigational equipment and are especially equipped for rescue and service operations, such as fire, towage and diving. V&B also has helicopters at its disposal.

MRCC Tórshavn co-operates with Search and Rescue Centres in Norway, Denmark, the United Kingdom, Iceland and in Greenland. Tórshavn Radio provides 24 hour monitoring with responsibility for distress, urgency and safety in Faroese Territorial waters.

Fishing Fishing permits are required for certain lochs. Regulations for fishing in the lochs are printed on the permit. The fishing season in rivers and streams is from 1st May to 31st August. You can purchase permits in most of the tourist information offices. Coastal fishing is generally permitted, check with harbourmaster for local exceptions.

Weather The Danish Meteorological Office provides weather forecasts for the Faroes on www.dmi.dk/dmi/index/faroerne.htm, unfortunately they are only in Danish. However, with a little patience all the information required can be found. Another useful site is the Norwegian Meteorological Institute some of which is in English www.yr.no/place/Faroe_Islands/ , click on the island and then the town to obtain a forecast including wind speed and direction for the next three days.

Navtex Tórshavn Radio [D] transmits Navtex messages in English at 0030z - 0430z - 0830z - 1230z - 1630z - 2030z, on 518kHz. Reception is generally very good. The forecast is supplied for four areas around the islands:-

Outer-Banks (Ytri) - West/South West Munk Grounds - South/South East Fugloy Bank - East/North East Iceland Ridge - North/North West

Conservation of the environment Public toilets are a rare commodity but can usually be found in supermarkets and shopping centres.

Holding tanks There is no specific Faroese requirement for the fitting of holding tanks and there are limited pump out facilities. There is a pump out station in Argir just south of Tórshavn.

General waste All harbours have waste disposal, usually a skip.

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Services and supplies Electricity Electricity is available in most harbours, but a special card is sometimes required for the meter, the harbourmaster will advise. Both the electricity supply and the sockets are compatible with European standards (AC 220 volts, 50 cycles). However, an extra long connection cable is a wise investment.

Gas Butane gas is not available. Propane gas is readily available, but the connections are not suitable for use with UK regulators. Faroese standard Propane gas cylinders and regulators can be purchased in some towns. Fuel Petrol can only be obtained at petrol stations. Diesel pumps are available in most harbours, but a special card is required to operate the pumps except in Tórshavn and Klaksvík. To obtain diesel phone the fuel company using the number given on the fuel pump and they are very helpful but there may be a delay of several hours before someone arrives to dispense the fuel. Water Water is readily available and of good quality.

Chandlery and repairs Some limited chandlery is available in Tórshavn. Elsewhere only equipment for fishing vessels will be found. Some of the harbours have companies which can undertake repairs in wood, steel and fibreglass as well as engine repairs and repairs to electronic equipment. There are no specialist yacht repairers, however, there is a sailmaker in Klaksvík.

Food and drink Eating out With the exception of Tórshavn there are very few restaurants. Some smaller restaurants have a set menu with no choice. Once again vegetarians are not well catered for. However, there is good variety in the supermarkets.

Alcohol Alcoholic drinks are expensive, particularly in restaurants. The local beers come in various strengths and are very good. Most supermarkets sell low strength beer. Spirits, wines and higher strength beers are available at the official liquor stores “Rúsdrekkasølan” in the main towns.

Money The national currency is the Faroe Króna which is completely interchangeable with the Danish Krone. Notes of both types are in circulation, but coins are all Danish. Cash is readily available from cash card machines in most harbours and credit/debit cards are widely accepted.

Telephone Føroya Tele (Faroese Telecom) has coin and credit card telephones located in some public places. When calling from abroad, the Faroese national code is + 298. If dialling out first dial 00, then the national code and the telephone number.

The GSM system is the most commonly used mobile phone system in the Faroes and can be used throughout the islands. Føroya Tele (Faroese Telecom) and Vodafone have roaming agreements with UK companies and can provide SIM cards.

Internet access Internet cafés can be found in the Tourist Information Offices in Tórshavn, and Runavík and in some other locations. Føroya Tele (Faroese Telecom) and Vodaphone can provide a dongle to allow internet connection from your laptop. Speeds are excellent and coverage is good.

Post There are 15 post offices on the Faroe Islands located in larger towns and villages. Postcards, stamps and envelopes can be bought in most towns and villages, post boxes are also widely available. The main post office is situated in Tórshavn, at Óðinhædd 2. It is open weekdays from 0900 to 1700. 61

Medical and Dental treatment Dial 112 for any type of emergency assistance anywhere in the country. First aid is provided at the hospitals in Tórshavn, Klaksvík and Tvøroyri. General Practitioners are also available for non- emergency consultations over the telephone, usually between 0800 and 0900 in the morning. Emergency medical treatment can be obtained in Tórshavn between 1600 and 2000 by telephoning to the emergency medical service tel. 1870. Pharmacies in Tórshavn, Runavík, Klaksvík and Tvøroyri provide after hours assistance as well. Emergency dental service (tel. 314544) is also available in Tórshavn. The emergency dental clinic is open Saturdays and Sundays and bank holidays from 1000 to 1100. The EHIC (European Health Insurance Card) is valid in the Faroe Islands.

Sailing in Faroese waters Yachts venturing into Faroese waters need to have a high degree of self-sufficiency, there are no marinas and no yacht chandlers. Engine, hull and electronic repairs can be undertaken in some harbours and there is a sailmaker in Klaksvík. June, July and August are considered the best months for sailing in this area. It is essential to have detailed information on tides.

Crossings From Scotland Stornoway to Tvøroyri - 215 NM. Stornoway to Vágur - 210NM. Stromness to Tvøroyri - 192 NM. Scalloway to Tvøroyri - 185 NM.

Currents Between Scotland and the Faroe Islands the North Atlantic Drift flows Northeast at between 0.2 kts and 0.7kts. To the West of the Faroe Islands part of the East Icelandic Current flows roughly South. To the East of the Islands the same current flows Southeast. These currents, in conjunction with the banks around the islands can give rise to confused seas.

Tides The tidal streams in the vicinity of the islands are very strong and demand great respect. There are numerous severe and very severe races which should not be entered in anything but calm weather. These races, combined with bad visibility can make approaching land difficult. To understand the tides two books are needed:- 1. Streymkort fyri Føroyar (Tidal Stream Atlas for Faroe) edited by Fischer Heinesen. This excellent 24 page booklet shows tides and races at hourly intervals. In order to put times to the pages it is necessary to know either the time of slack water in Suðuroyarfjørður or the moon’s meridian passage, both are available in the Almanakki (see below). 2. The Almanakki is a comprehensive local almanac with a wide range of useful information and is an almost essential companion to the Tidal Stream Atlas.

Both of the above publications can be obtained from H. N. Jacobsens Bókahandil, Vaglid, Box 55, FO 100 Tórshavn, Faroe Islands. Phone:- +298 311 036, e-mail:- [email protected]. Web:- www.hnj.fo or www.bokhandil.fo.

Tide tables for the Faroes can be downloaded at:- www.dmi.dk/en/faeroeerne/hav/tidal-tables/.

Note:- High water at Trongisvágur almost coincides with slack water after West going tide (Vestfallskyrrindi) in Suðuroyarfjørður. This is Kort 0 in the Streymkort fyri Føroyar.

In 2017 an App for the tides in the Faroe Islands became available; the App is called RÁK and can be downloaded from your App store. The App is in the , but it is very user friendly. Once downloaded the App can be used without an internet connection (for examples see below).

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RÁK App wide view RÁK App partially zoomed in

Within the app it is possible to zoom in and out on different areas. Switch the App to calendar mode on the controls page to change the date and time and step through time in 15 minute intervals. When searching for the RÁK app please ensure that the acute is put on top of the “A”!

Unmanned Aircraft systems – Drones

In general, flying drones in the Faroe Islands is permitted, provided ALL the following conditions are met: • Drones MUST NOT be flown within 150 metres of a village, town or city or within 150 metres of main roads that connect villages • Drones MUST NOT be flown within a 5-kilometre radius of Vágar Airport • Drones MUST NOT be flown above summerhouses or camping areas, or in places where many people are gathered, e.g. at festivals • Drones MUST NOT be flown above 100 metres from the ground • Drones MUST be insured Illegal flying of drones in the Faroe Islands can result in a fine of DKK 5000. Aviation rules and regulations in the Faroe Islands are overseen by the Danish Transport and Construction Agency. Source: Faroe Islands police

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Harbour and anchorage information

Enniberg 06o W Viðoy Gjógv Kunoy Fugloy Eiði Hvannasund Tjørnuvik Borðoy Svinoy Saksun Fuglafjord Klaksvik EysturoyLeirvik Vestmanna

Bøur Mykines Vágar Sørvá gur Selvik Miðvágur Tórshavn o Nólsoy 62 N

Koltur Gamlaraet Hestur

Sandoy

Sandur Húsavik

Skúvoy

Suðuroyarfj rður Stóra Dimun ø

Litla Dimun

N Suðuroy Tvøroyri Tjaldavik

Vágur Faroe Islands

Akranes

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Vágur 61O 28’.23N 06O 47’.72W Beware of the cages in the approach. This is an excellent harbour located behind a substantial breakwater which extends nearly across the fjord. A berth may be found in the trawler harbour on the North side of the fjord. Good shelter. Water on the quay, limited shops, customs. Fees charged, DKK 70 per 24 hours (2015) pay at harbour masters office. VHF 12/16. +298 373 033 or +298 215 033 Anchoring is possible but holding is reported as poor and the gusts off the hills can be strong.

Trawler harbour Vágur, looking East

Tvøroyri 61O 33’N 06O 48’W This was an excellent first port of call and is still good. However, most of the old trawler harbour has been filled in to make a new freight terminal for the fish-processing factory. A berth may be found but is likely to be noisy. There is a small boat harbour, but space is limited, and the gate is locked. There is additional berthing on a wooden pier further up the fjord. It is also possible to anchor in several locations in the fjord either further up from the wooden pier where holding is excellent or near the entrance behind Tjaldavíkshólmer. There is a ferry berth on the South West side of the fjord opposite the trawler harbour. Water and diesel may be available on the quay, good shops, restaurant/café/pub near the quay, customs. Showers and laundry are available at the harbourmaster’s office, a donation is requested. No fees charged.

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Wooden Photo Tvøroyri Harbour Pier N

Anchorage Pub/ Small Boat Café Harbour

Old Trawler Harbour mostly filled in 2014

Water Fish unloading Fuel Pier, new in 2012 Electricity

Wooden pier, Tvøroyri

Tjaldavik - Anchorage 61O 31’.87N 06O 46’.77W A reasonably sheltered anchorage in 9.0m, mud/kelp. Not comfortable in winds from the NW. Beware of salmon farm equipment.

Stóra Dimun 61O 41’.0968N 06O 45’.9361W In fair conditions landing can be made by dinghy near the above position. A small natural harbour between the rocks allows shelter from the swell. Follow the somewhat tortuous path over the rocks to the south round the headland then up a steep gully to the tiny village.

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Landing place on Stóra Dimun, the gap in the rocks is to the right of the picture

Skúvoy 61O 46’N 06O 48’W It is possible to anchor off the village in suitable conditions. The harbour is too tight for most yachts and there is a strong tidal surge across the entrance. However, the island is well worth a visit. The grave of Sigmundur Brestisson can be found in the cemetery to the south of the village. He is credited with bringing Christianity to the Faroes in 1000 AD but was murdered for his trouble!

Harbour at Skúvoy - entrance is to the left of the picture

Sandur 61O 50’N 06O 48’W A well-sheltered harbour used by some fishing boats and the ferry to Skúvoy. Enter with the long breakwater to Port. To Starboard is the inner harbour but it is usually full of fishing boats, continue straight ahead into the main harbour and moor to the North wall in 7.0m. The plant is now closed. Very friendly people, water on the quay, some shops, excellent walks. A peaceful place to spend a few days exploring.

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Harbour at Sandur, entrance is to the right of the picture

Húsavik - Anchorage 61O 48’.53N 06O 39’.98W A pleasant anchorage in suitable conditions, exposed from NE through E to SE. The small harbour is not suitable for yachts. Anchor in 11m in above position, good holding in sand. Can be rolly.

Hestur 61O 57’.47N 06O 52’.9W Small sheltered harbour beware of strong tides across the entrance. Berth on pontoon to the North of the ferry berth. Good walks. The South harbour is shallow and too small for most yachts. Take the time to sail up the West coast of Hestur, it is clean close in and offers spectacular caves (take the dinghy into them!) and bird cliffs.

Hestur, the entrance is above the yacht, ferry berth to the right

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Cliffs on West coast of Hestur

Koltur 61O 59’N 06O 57W No harbour but it is possible to anchor off the beach and dinghy ashore. There may be a mooring available off the landing stage. Do not obstruct the front of the landing stage, there is room for a dinghy on the inside. The island is virtually uninhabited, the old village has been partially restored and guided tours are possible.

Landing stage on Koltur, beach is to the left

Gamlaraett 62O 09’N 06O 49W Really only a ferry harbour but a temporary berth can be found on the pontoon. Expect to be disturbed by ferry wash as it enters and leaves.

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Harbour at Gamlaraett

Miðvágur 62O 03’N 07O 11’W A long breakwater almost closes off the head of the fjord and gives reasonable shelter although there is still some fetch in the harbour. There are two inner harbours for small boats, but these are generally full and are quite shallow. The Northern side of the harbour is occupied by large trawlers, the best berth for yachts is on the first pier after the breakwater on the South side of the harbour just before the small boat harbours. Good shops, good walks.

Harbour at Miðvágur

Vestmanna 62O 09’N 07O 10’W A pleasant quiet harbour at the head of a deep sheltered bay. Berth on the new pontoon in the main harbour in the North West side of the bay. Beware, the anchor mooring ropes on the outer end of the pontoon are very near the surface. The small boat harbour in the North East corner is not suitable for yachts. It is possible to anchor off the beach just outside the small boat harbour. Water on the pontoon, supermarket, bar/restaurant. Beware of fish farms in the approach to the harbour. Tides at the entrance to the bay can be very strong. 70

Harbour at Vestmanna Selvik - Anchorage 62O 04’.36N 07O 21’.54W Space limited by fish farm, shelves steeply.

Sørvágur 62O 04’N 07O 19’W Plenty of space on main harbour wall but tyres are high, and a yacht can be caught underneath. Best berth is in front of the old fish processing plant (White building) between the main harbour wall and the small boat harbour, however, this berth is also used by fish farm boats and the ferry to Mykines. The small boat harbour is narrow and not suitable for yachts. It is possible to anchor in 17m at 62O 04’.42N 07O 19’.32W. Beware, the head of the fjord shoals steeply. Good place for a crew change as the airport is nearby.

Sørvágur, white building is the old fish processing plant

Bøur - Anchorage 62O 05’.05N 07O 22’.26W Very pretty village, anchor south of the stone pier.

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Bøur - Anchorage

Mykines 62O 06’N 07O 38’W Take the time to sail round this island, spectacular cliffs full of birds. There is a small quay used by the ferry in the above position. Entry might be possible in settled weather.

Mykines - quay

Saksun - Anchorage 62O 14’.78N 07O 12’.98W A pleasant secluded anchorage in suitable weather, the fjord appears clean, keep mid channel and anchor off the beach in 8m. Exposed to the West.

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Saksun - Anchorage

Tjørnuvik – Anchorage 62O 17’.59N 07O 08’.73W Anchor in 10m off the stone jetty on the West side of the fjord. Exposed to the North and can be rolly.

Risin og Kellingin

The Giant and the Hag, they were trying to tow the Faroe Islands to Iceland when the morning sun caught them and turned them to stone

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Tórshavn 62O 00’N 06O 45’W

Yacht pontoons are located in the North West corner of the Vestaravág. Water and electricity on the pontoons. Diesel is available at a pump on the Port hand on entering the main harbour, it accepts UK credit cards. Very good shops but the best supermarket is nearly one kilometre away up the hill. Customs/Immigration.

The pontoons are very close to several restaurants and can be a bit noisy. Showers, washing machines and WiFi available from the yacht club overlooking the pontoons. Fees payable at the payment booth on the dock near the pontoons (see photo) DKK 150 for each of the first 4 days, then DKK 300 per day thereafter (2020).

Call “Tórshavn Harbour” on VHF 12/16 prior to entering the harbour (+298 311 762, mobile +298 211 762). Customs +298 352 600, Immigration +298 357 979.

Excellent repairs available at the shipyard. The harbour is currently being extended with completion due in 2020. Inevitably this means care is required when making an approach particularly from the North. Most charts do not yet show the revised layout. Please see the plan below.

Yacht pontoons, Tórshavn

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Tórshavn Harbour Yacht Berths Yacht club N

Cu stoms Tinganes

Vestaravág Photo Harbour master Eystaravág (Entrance) Faroe Shipping

Shipyard

Chandlery & Volvo Penta

Container Terminal Area under construction

62o 00’03N 006o 45’.27W

Water

Fuel

Electricity 61o 59’92N 006o 45’.69W

Payment booth for payment of harbour dues and purchase of electricity cards.

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Nólsoy 62O 00’.45N 06O 40’.59W A nice quiet harbour, limited facilities but information and good food can be obtained from the café at the end of the pier. Pass through the breakwater and turn to the north after the pier. Berth on the inside of the pier or find a vacant pontoon. Electricity and water available on the pontoons. The ferry from Tórshavn uses the berth in the south east of the harbour; it enters at speed and causes a considerable surge in the harbour.

Nólsoy looking west to Tórshavn

Leirvik 62O 13’N 06O 42’W This harbour was used by the ferry to Klaksvík, a tunnel has replaced the ferry. Considerable work has been done in the small boat harbour making it suitable for yachts. The southern inner harbour is home to a fish factory and busy with large trawlers. Yachts should find a berth in the northern part of the harbour but beware, it is shallow in places. Good shops and a Føroyar Bjór store.

Leirvik, small boat harbour 76

Fuglafjórd 62O 14’N 06O 48’W The small boat harbour at the head of the fjord has been refurbished but space is still limited, however a berth may be found for smaller vessels. The best berth is now in the main harbour on the visitor’s pontoon or alongside a fishing boat. Alternatively, there is good anchorage off the beach at the head of the fjord in 12m, some kelp. Water on the quay. The fuel berth has moved to the visitor’s pontoon. Good shops. Customs can be arranged, phone +298 447 305, they will come over from Klaksvík or Runavik, the harbourmaster can arrange this. No fees charged.

Fuglafjórd main harbour visitor pontoon with the small boat harbour to the left

Fuglafjórd small boat harbour

Klaksvík 62O 14’N 06O 35’W This is the second largest town in the islands and has an excellent sheltered harbour. There are many quays along both sides of the fjord. The best mooring is on one of the pontoons in the Southeast of the fjord, however, this area can be busy, and it may be better to seek a berth alongside a trawler that is laid up. Good shops and facilities including supermarket, a sailmaker and electronics specialist. Contact harbour on VHF Ch12, phone +298 455 081 or +298 455 101. Fuel is available at a pump near the FK supermarket in the Southeast of the harbour, this pump accepts credit and debit cards.

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Klaksvik Harbour

N

FK Fuel Supermarket

Fuel station in Klaksvík

Gjógv 62O 20’N 06O 56’W The approach requires care as there are various rocks. Approach should be slightly from north of the entrance as there are rocks to the south. There is a rock at the narrow entrance, but it can be avoided by staying really close to the on the Port side going in. Berthing is on an old concrete quay; a fender board is essential. Beware of old iron bolts sticking out of the concrete! There is 1.6m on the extreme outer end of the quay at low water. This scenic harbour should only be visited by small yachts in very settled conditions.

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Rocks off the entrance to Gjógv

Rocks in the entrance to Gjógv

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Gjógv, photo provided by Per Eriksson

Eiði 62O 18’N 07O 05’W This is the most Northerly secure harbour in the islands. Protected by two large breakwaters there is berthing for trawlers in the in the Northwest corner, but the quays are exposed to the South. In the Southern portion of this large harbour are pontoon berths for smaller fishing vessels and a more sheltered berth may be available here. All the facilities of a small town.

Eiði, pontoon berths at lower left

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Kunoy 62O 17’.5N 06O 40’.3W A small pier, berth either side depending on prevailing weather conditions. Only tenable in settled weather.

Pier at Kunoy

Hvannasund (South) 62O 17’.75N 06O 31’.34W A berth may be available in the harbour, but it is busy with fish farm boats. Good anchorage can be found off the stone pier South East of the church in 9m at 62O 17’.4093N 06O 31’.0934W.

Hvannasaund South Hvannasund (North) 62O 17’.98N 06O 31’.47W The harbour jetty is occupied by fish farm boats, pontoons are in poor shape and too small for most yachts. Anchorage can be found in 17m at 62O 18’.3588N 06O 31’.8128W exposed to the North.

Svinoy – Anchorage 62O 16’.51N 06O 20’.13W The harbour is very small but there is good anchorage off the harbour in 9m in the above position. The anchorage can be rolly even in light winds.

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Harbour at Svinoy taken from the anchorage

Kirkja 62O 19’.13N 06O 19’.31W This tiny remote harbour is not suitable for yachts. Strong tidal streams between Fugloy and Svinoy and a rocky seabed make anchoring off impossible. Sail past with a fair tide, the views are worth it!

The harbour at Kirkja

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Enniberg The mighty northern tip of the Faroe Islands rises 750m out of the sea, perhaps the highest shear headland in the world.

Enniberg

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Greenland

The Country The physical conditions Greenland is the world’s largest island (Australia is a continent!) with a total area of 2,166,086 square kilometres, stretching from 59o 46’N to about 83o 30’N and 13o W to 73o W, only about 410,449 square kilometres are ice free. Greenland has one of the most extensive and complex systems of fjords found on any coast.

Greenland has an Arctic climate with average temperatures that do not exceed 10° C even in the warmest summer months. The air quality is amongst the best in the world due to the country's geographical position. In the southern part of the country and the innermost parts of the long fjords, the temperature can rise to over 20° C in June, July or August, and due to the fine air quality and low levels of moisture in the air, the visibility is exceptional making distant mountains look near. The wildlife Despite its climate Greenland has a diverse wildlife including polar bears, musk oxen, caribou, arctic foxes, hares, eagles, ptarmigan, lemmings and the rare Arctic wolf. On the west coast and in large parts of the east coast there are also herds of reindeer. The interface between land and sea is the home of the polar bear where it hunts seals and birds. During the summer it may go ashore to consume vegetation. The bird population of Greenland is also varied. From small buntings, siskins and sparrows to guillemots, puffins, auks, terns, kittiwakes, gulls, ravens, owls, great northern divers, fulmar, cormorant, geese, eider duck, merganser, sandpiper, sand runs, turnstone and the Arctic skua among many others. The seas contain Humpback whales, killer whales, narwhals, minke whales, beluga whales, blue whales, sperm whales, fin whales and the Greenland whale. There are a number of seal species of which the harbour seal, the hooded seal, the bearded seal, the Greenland seal, and the ringed seal, are the most common. Walrus may be sighted; they can weigh up to one ton. A wide variety of fish and shellfish include cod, shrimp, crab, halibut, redfish, lumpfish, salmon and Arctic char. The people, their language and their education Approximately 57,000 people live in Greenland; of this number about 88% are Inuit. The capital, Nuuk has a population of about 17,000. Greenlandic or Kalaallisut (meaning the Greenlanders’ language) is the official language and is an Inuit language. Danish and English are widely spoken.

History Little is known about Greenland until the Medieval Warm Period (c950 to 1250). The Sagas tell us that Eric the Red landed on the South West coast about 982 and named the land Greenland to encourage settlers from Iceland. Some years later he brought a large number of farmers and their families to the southern tip of Greenland and another group landed further North on the West coast. The colonies flourished and in about 1000 Leif Eriksson arrived with a and orders from King Olaf Tryggvason of Norway to introduce Christianity. At this time Greenland was an independent democracy with its own Althing (Parliament). In 1261 Greenland became a dependency of Norway. As the Medieval Warm Period came to an end life became harder in the colonies and the settlements died out. There are theories that as the weather grew colder, ancestors of today’s Inuit moved south from the North West and massacred the remaining Vikings. Whatever happened only the Inuit survived in the icy world of the Little Ice Age.

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In 1380 Norway entered the Kalmar Union with Denmark and for some considerable time Denmark- Norway believed that the Viking settlements still existed and continued to claim sovereignty over the island despite the lack of any contact. In 1721 Denmark-Norway had colonial aspirations and sent a missionary expedition to Greenland to reinforce Christianity. When the missionaries found no descendants of the Vikings, they baptized the Inuit Greenlanders they found living there instead. Denmark-Norway then developed trading colonies along the coast and imposed a trade monopoly and other colonial privileges on the area. When the union between Denmark and Norway was dissolved after the treaty of Kiel in 1814 Denmark retained possession of Greenland. During World War II, when Germany invaded Denmark, Greenlanders became socially and economically less connected to Denmark and more connected to the United States and Canada. After the war, Denmark resumed control of Greenland and in 1953, converted its status from colony to overseas amt (county). Although Greenland is still a part of the Kingdom of Denmark, it has enjoyed home rule since 1979. In a 1982 referendum the island voted to leave the European Union, which it had joined as a part of Denmark in 1973. They retained a special association with the EU.

Religion Lutheran.

Public Holidays New Year's Day Epiphany Maundy Thursday Good Friday Easter Monday Prayer Day Ascension Day Whit Monday Ullortuneq (National Day) Christmas Eve Christmas Day 2nd Day of Christmas New Year's Eve

Time Greenland has four time zones as follows:- • Danmarkshavn and use UT (GMT) in Winter and Summer. • East Greenland () uses UT (GMT) – 0 in Winter and UT (GMT) – 1 in Summer • West Greenland (Most of the country) uses UT (GMT) – 2 in Winter and UT (GMT) – 3 in Summer • (The far eastern part) uses UT (GMT) – 4 in Winter and UT (GMT) – 3 in Summer. Summertime is from the last Sunday in March to the last Sunday in October.

Documents Required Passport Vessel Registration document Radio Licence

Immigration matters In most cases immigration matters are handled by the police and are very relaxed. However, for yachts overwintering in Greenland with their crews, things get more complicated. Greenland is independent however Denmark still administers immigration from Copenhagen. UK citizens do not require a visa to visit Greenland, they are permitted to stay for a maximum of 90 days in 180 days. There is a little-known caveat: any days spent in any Scandic country (both Schengen & European) are counted. Therefore, any time spent in Iceland, Norway, Faroes, Denmark, Finland, Sweden, is taken from the 90 days available to stay in Greenland. There is no legal way to extend this for example if wishing to over-winter with your boat in Greenland; the boat may stay but not the crew, unless you are Scandinavian. Force Majeure is not a reason as the ice comes every year. The penalty for overstaying is 3 to 5 years ban from entry to any Danish dependency, plus the cost of being expelled from Greenland.

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Import of alcohol and tobacco The following duty free allowances apply:-

• Cigarettes 200 pcs. or Cigarillos 100 pcs. or Cigars 50 pcs. or rolling tobacco 250 grams • Cigarettes paper or cigarette tubes 200 pcs. • 1 litre of spirits (over 22%) or 2 litres of dessert wine (under 22%) • 2.25 litres of table wine (under 15%) • 2 litres of beer • 2 litres of soft drinks (sodas) • Perfume 50 ml. • Eau de toilette 250 ml. • In addition, cosmetics and other toiletries up to a maximum value of DKK 1.000 • Chocolate or confectionary 4 kilos in total • Coffee or tea 4 kilos • Meat, meat products or poultry 5 kilos in total

Flag regulations and etiquette It is normal for yachts to fly their ensign and the Greenland courtesy flag. Entry and departure by public transport Flights , the national airline, operates a variety of routes as does Air Iceland. Schedules are subject to change and are influenced by season. Greenland has 18 runways.

Getting Around There are no roads between settlements, only in and around them so helicopter is the main form of transport. There are only 150km of roads in the whole country and only 60km of that is paved.

By Car Car rental is available in some larger towns eg. Nuuk but they are expensive, £100/day including snow tyres. Driving is European style on the right. It should be noted that there are almost no roads between settlements.

By Bus In the absence of roads, bus transport is limited.

By Helicopter Helicopter services are a lifeline in Greenland. Several companies operate including Air Greenland.

Publications Charts Danish charts are available; they can be purchased in UK from Imray www.imray.com. Attention is drawn to the following document “Precautions in using navigational charts in Greenland waters” which can be found on the internet.

The paper charts available for West Greenland waters are produced in the geographical datum "Qornoq 1927". On each paper chart a note has been inserted giving the correction to be used if positions are obtained from a satellite navigation system, such as GPS, which refers to WGS 84 datum. This could state, e.g., Positions obtained from satellite navigation systems refer to WGS 84 datum; they should be moved 0.08 minutes northward and 0.25 minutes westward to agree with the chart. For paper charts covering Northern and Eastern Greenland waters, the source material for chart datum may be unknown. Some electronic charts have been produced using the paper charts as a base. It is not possible to navigate safely using either paper or electronic charts and GPS as significant errors will be present. However, safe navigation can be achieved using the charts and radar (bearing and distance). Charts using WGS 84 are slowly becoming available. It should be noted that the chart offsets can lead to confusion if AIS is used for anti-collision purposes. 86

Harbour guides and pilot books British Admiralty Pilot NP11 and NP12 Arctic and Northern waters, RCC Pilotage Foundation Greenland Pilot – General Information about Greenland. Greenland Pilot – Sailing Directions for East Greenland. Greenland Pilot – Sailing Directions for West Greenland. The above Greenland pilots are published by the Danish Geodata Agency in English and can be downloaded from their website free of charge. They are excellent useful publications. https://eng.gst.dk/danish-hydrographic-office/nautical-publications/.

Guide books, maps, etc., Viking Polar Cruise series Lonely Planet Publications Saga maps from Nanu Travel in Ittoqqortoormiit or www.themapshop.co.uk/World/rest/Greenland.htm

Buoyage Due to the ice there are almost no navigation buoys in Greenland except in the approaches to some harbours.

Radio Services Tele Greenland operates the Coast Radio Station service. It is provided from Aasiaat Radio. Aasiaat Radio does not operate DSC on VHF.

Medical advice In an emergency where medical advice is required call Aasiaat Radio. Callers will be connected to a doctor free of charge.

Maritime weather forecast and ice information For information on maritime weather and ice conditions forecast contact Aasiaat Radio.

Frequency list for Aasiaat Radio:- East Coast VHF Channel Location 25 Pingels Fjeld 26 27 Kap Tycho Brahe West Coast VHF Channel Location VHF Channel Location 01 Ikerasassuaq 03 Top 775 04 Nanortalik 28 Tretopfjeld 02 – 25 Qaqortoq 24 23 26 27 Ø 23 Paamiut 28 Kangaarsuk 03 Qingaaq 26 Telegraføen 25 Maniitsoq 24 26 Dye One 01 Sisimiut 28 Rifkol 27 Aasiaat 23 Lyngmarksfjeld 25 24 Pingo 02 Niaqornaq 03 63 Uviq 04 Sandersons Hope 60 Tinu

MF Transmitting Location East Coast Frequency 2250 kHz

West Coast 2265 kHz Ikerasassuaq 2129 kHz Qaqortoq 2225 kHz Paamiut 2116 kHz Nuuk 87

2400 kHz Maniitsoq 3125 kHz Sisimiut 2304 kHz 3280 kHz Uummannaq 3276 kHz

Aasiaat Radio can also be contacted on E-mail: [email protected] Phone: +299 130 000, Phone: +299 386 993, Fax: +299 892 777.

Search and Rescue services Search and Rescue services in Greenland are divided between Joint Arctic Command (JACMD), the Air Rescue Coordination Center and the Commissioner of Police in Greenland. JACMD administers JRCC Greenland which is responsible for the maritime rescue service. The Flight Information Centre (FIC) Sondrestrom, is responsible for search and rescue by aircraft. The Commissioner of Police in Greenland is responsible for the local rescue service, meaning search and rescue operations in coastal sea areas, as well as ashore.

Contact (24 hours a day):- JRCC GREENLAND FIC Sonderstrom Commissioner of Police in Greenland Tel:- +299 36 40 10 Tel:- +299 36 33 18 Tel:- +299 70 14 48, extension 200 Fax:- +299 36 40 99 Fax:- +299 36 33 19 Fax:- +299 32 41 94 Inmarsat C:- 433 116 710 Email:- [email protected] Email:- [email protected] Email:- [email protected]

Attention is drawn to the Greenland Mandatory Ship Reporting System, see appendix 4.

Fishing is done with hooks without barbs, anglers may only take the fish they can eat on the trip. All river fishing requires a valid licence, and this costs DKK 75, for a 24 hour period and DKK 200, for a week.

Weather The Danish Meteorological Office provides weather forecasts for Greenland on http://www.dmi.dk/en/groenland/hav/sea-areas-forecast/

Navtex Safety notices are broadcast via Navtex on 518 kHz. Below are details of NAVTEX transmitters in the waters around Greenland:-

NAVTEX station Identification Transmission times UTC letter Bodø radio, Svalbard A 0000, 0400, 0800, 1200, 1600, 2000 Eqaluit radio T 0310, 0710, 1110, 1510, 1910, 2310 Kook Island, Nuuk W 0340, 0740, 1140, 1540, 1940, 2340 Labrador X 0350, 0750, 1150, 1550, 1950, 2350 Reykjavik Radio, Saudanes R 0250, 0650, 1050, 1450, 1850, 2250 Reykjavik Radio, Grindavik X 0350, 0750, 1150, 1550, 1950, 2350 Simiutaq, Qaqortoq M 0200, 0600, 1000, 1400, 1800, 2200 Upernavik I 0120, 0520, 0920, 1320, 1720, 2120

There is little or no Navtex reception in Scoresby Sund.

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Conservation of the environment Public toilets are a very rare commodity.

Holding tanks There is no specific requirement in Greenland for the fitting of holding tanks and there are no pump-out facilities.

General waste All harbours have waste disposal facilities, but it is prudent to be able to store waste on board for long periods.

Services and supplies Electricity Electricity might be available in most harbours but getting alongside can be difficult.

Gas Propane gas works best in low temperatures.

Fuel Diesel (Gasolie) is widely available and cheap but sometimes only in drums.

Water Water supplies can be problematical, some harbours have hoses, but water quality is questionable. Better to find a clear running stream.

Chandlery and repairs Chandlery is very limited, but most harbours have basic repair facilities. It is essential that yachts carry a comprehensive supply of spares and tools.

Food and drink Eating out Options are limited but the larger settlements do have good restaurants. Prices can be very high.

Alcohol Alcoholic drinks are expensive.

Money The national currency is the Danish Krone (DKK). Cash is readily available from cash card machines in most harbours and credit/debit cards are widely accepted. It is prudent to carry some cash to allow purchase of fish and meat from hunters etc.

Telephone The mobile phone system in Greenland is GSM and covers nearly all inhabited areas of Greenland except for one or two settlements. Tele Greenland has a list of countries and phone companies that have roaming agreements. A sim card for the pay-as-you-go plan can be bought at Tele. www.tele.gl

Internet access Hotspots have been established in most major hotels, and more and more hotels are offering connections from their rooms. There are Internet cafés in bigger towns. It is also possible to check emails in some tourist offices.

Post Post offices are located in all major towns.

Medical and Dental treatment There is a hospital in all towns, and usually a nursing clinic in settlements. In the event of acute illness, treatment is free of charge in Greenland. No vaccinations are required. In an emergency medical advice is available free of charge, call Aasiaat Radio. Callers will be connected to the primary hospital of Greenland. 89

Sailing in Greenland waters Yachts venturing into these waters must be very well prepared and self-sufficient. It may not be possible to obtain insurance for the vessel. Attention is drawn to the Greenland Mandatory Ship Reporting System, see appendix 4. In addition to the normal list of yacht equipment consideration should be given to the following:- • Heating; at least one good heater, preferably two is required. A vessel with good thermal insulation will help control condensation in the cabin. • Comprehensive medical kit and at least one person trained to use it. • Ice Poles (Tuk) at least 3m in length with a steel point on one end. • Satellite phone (Iridium) and/or long range radio. • Firearms, a shotgun capable of firing heavy rounds or a rifle. Polar bears are a serious threat and crew should be trained and ready to use firearms. • Adequate fuel supply. • Provisions. • Warm bedding/sleeping bags. • Mosquito repellent. • Mast steps or a camera on the mast to scout routes through ice.

Crew must also be prepared for the cold climate with good quality thermals, oilskins, head cover, socks, boots and gloves. Consideration should be given to drying clothes when they get wet. Immersion suits/dry suits are a useful addition to safety.

Firearms It is generally accepted that a gun should be carried for safety when outside the settlements. The threat is from polar bears and also musk ox. These are both large animals and need a heavy weapon to stop them. Guns and ammunition can be purchased or hired in most of the settlements. If you are not confident in the use of weapons it would be wise to take a course prior to visiting Greenland otherwise the gun could be more dangerous to you than the polar bears! Make sure you know how to handle the gun safely before you need to use it.

Permits The Government of Greenland operates a permit system for access to certain remote areas. In 2020 it costs DKK 4,000 to obtain a permit. The full executive order and application forms can be obtained at:- https://naalakkersuisut.gl//en/About-government-of-greenland/Travel-activities-in- remote-parts-of-Greenland

Here is an excerpt:- “Travelling on the inland ice and in the National Park in North and East Greenland, etc.

1. With certain exceptions, travelling without a permit is prohibited:

1) on the inland ice in Greenland and glaciers issuing therefrom; 2) in the National Park in North and East Greenland and the adjoining sea territory; 3) in the rest of East Greenland from the National Park to a line east/west of the Lindenow Fjord; and 4) in the rest of North Greenland from the National Park to latitude 78º N.

2. No permit is required for travelling:

1) in the area near Qaanaaq between latitudes 78º N and 79º N and west of longitude 66º W; 2) in Ittoqqortoormit in the area extending from the town and up to the National Park, towards the west to longitude 29º W and towards the south to latitude 70º N; and 3) in the area extending up to 150 km from the centre of Tasiilaq.

3. (1) No permit is required under this Order for travels of less than 24 hours’ duration in the land areas listed in section 1 of this Order. (2) A permit is required for sailing in the areas listed in section 1 of this Order regardless of duration.” 90

Crossings From UK West coast Scotland to Paamiut - 1550 NM (Paamiut may not be accessible due to ice) West coast Scotland to Nuuk - 1700 NM Stornoway to Vestmannaejar - 535 NM Stornoway to Reykjavik - 650 NM Falmouth to Paamiut - 1755 NM Falmouth to Nuuk - 1900 NM From Iceland Húsavík to Ittoqqortoormitt - 295 NM Isafjörður to Ittoqqortoormitt - 275 NM Vestmannaejar to Paamiut - 1055 NM Vestmannaejar to Nuuk - 1210 NM Reykjavik to Paamiut - 1025 NM Reykjavik to Nuuk - 1180 NM

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Currents Kap Morris Jesup N

Ellesmere Island o (Canada) 80 N Kennedy Channel Nares Strait Kane Greenland Basin

Smith Sound Qaanaaq

Thule o 0 W

o 75 N 70o W

Baffin Bay

10o W Scoresby Sund Ittoqqortoormiito 70 N

Nansen Fjord

West Greenland Current 0.2-0.8kts

Sisimiut Denmark Strait

Davis Strait Davis Arctic Circle 60o W Iceland 0.2-0.5kts

0.1-0.2kts Irminger Current

Nuuk East Greenland Current0.2-0.5kts

20o W Paamiut

o Kap Desolation 60 N

Cap Farvel

0.2-0.8kts

North Atlantic0.2-1.0kts Drift 50o W 40o W 30o W

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The Gulf Stream This warm current flows with a speed of up to 3 knots from the American East coast (Cape Hatteras) towards the European coast (Norway). The majority of this current flows West of the British Isles, past the Faroes and North along the Norwegian coast. However, part of the Gulf Stream turns West off Iceland and flows towards the East coast of Greenland becoming the Irminger Current. The warm Irminger Current joins the cold polar water flowing South from the basin North of Svalbard and continues down the coast of East Greenland. This is called the East Greenland Current.

Currents in Arctic Ocean Most of the water flowing into the Arctic Ocean comes from the Atlantic, but some flows in through the Bering Strait between Russia and Alaska. Freshwater flows into the Arctic Ocean from the major rivers in Siberia and Arctic Canada. Water also flows from the Arctic Ocean through the Nares Strait into Baffin Bay and through the straits of the Canadian Archipelago into both Baffin Bay and the Davis Strait.

The West Greenland Current This current flows westwards South of Kap Farvel and turns North along Greenland’s West coast, it is a continuation of the cold East Greenland Current and the warmer Irminger Current which flow down the East coast of Greenland. Variations in the two currents, both individually and relative to each other, are continued in the West Greenland Current as changes in the current’s speed, width, water temperature and direction. The largest variations in the direction of the current seem to be in the outer parts of the current belt. Speed tends to decrease away from the land. The current is strongest in its southerly part as far as Kap Desolation. The speed then decreases somewhat towards Nuuk. Between Nuuk and Sisimiut the main part of the West Greenland Current turns West along the South slope of the ridge between Baffin Island and Greenland. North of Sisimiut there is only a weak current northwards along the coast. The West Greenland Current appears to be weakest in October. In summer, melt water from the land in conjunction with coastal waters warmed by the sun, increase the flow of the coastal current. Around Disko Bay, in early summer the current seems to pass without entering the bay. In mid- summer the increasing coastal current turns East along the South side of Disko Bay and eventually in late summer continues all the way round Disko Island.

The East Greenland Current This is a very cold current with a speed of 0.2~0.8 knots. It flows South from the Arctic Ocean down the coast of East Greenland, through the Denmark Strait towards Kap Farvel. The speed of the current along the coast is greatest close to the 200m contour, it decreases towards the coast. Along the Blosseville Coast and North beyond Scoresby Sund to about 75O N, the current sometimes turns into or away from the bays and fjords. The flow of the current away from the coast seems to occur in June and July and may be due to cold water from the snow and glaciers and to the North West wind. When the outgoing current ceases, the current flows in the opposite direction, and this current tends to block the fjords and bays with ice. Within the area of the continental shelf there are large variations in depth leading to distortion of the current flow. Recently a large underwater cataract has been found off Nansen Fjord: cold dense water cascades over 3,500m down to the seabed. The combined effects of the above mean that there are significant eddies within the main current. The East Greenland Current fills most of Denmark Strait, but a branch of the warm Irminger Current flows northwards along the West coast of Iceland then East along the North coast, the outer boundary of this current is located close to the 200m contour. Thus, there is a dividing line between the warm current flowing North and the cold current flowing South. Between Scoresby Sund and the Denmark Strait the outer part of the East Greenland current turns South East and East and then continues clockwise around Iceland as part of the East Iceland Current.

The Irminger Current In the area around 58º00’N and 015º00’W to 022°00’W, a branch of the warm Gulf Stream, turns North towards the South coast of Iceland. Close South West of Iceland it divides from the main current flowing West to join the East Greenland Current South of the Denmark Strait, while a 93 smaller branch flows North along the West coast of Iceland and continues East along the North coast of Iceland before tuning South.

Tides Tide tables for Greenland can be found at:- https://www.dmi.dk/hav-og-is/temaforside-tidevand/tidevandstabeller-for-groenland/?L=

The tidal wave in the Atlantic does not comply with the theoretical East to West flow, instead the wave flows from South to North. This wave is the result of tide in the Indian Ocean: when this Indian Ocean wave passes the Cape of Good Hope some of it turns North into the Atlantic. The wave, which can be up to 5m high, moves North in the Atlantic completely free of influence from local lunar tide. Every 12.5 hours (half a lunar day) a new wave heads North, thus when one wave is rounding the Cape of Good Hope the preceding wave is approximately at 32o North and the wave prior to that is level with the English Channel (50o N).

West Greenland Along the West coast of Greenland from Kap Farvel to the Kennedy Channel (between North East Greenland and Ellesmere Island), the tide is very strong and the range is considerable especially in the stretch from Nuuk to Sisimiut and in Smith Sund in the North. The largest range of tide on Greenland’s West and North West coasts occurs in Nuuk where it can reach 5.1m. The range decreases significantly North of Kane Basin, and tidal movement is insignificant on Greenland’s North coast.

East Greenland In the Denmark Strait the tide is strongest off headlands and in waters narrowed by islands and reefs. Its speed in such places can be 5~7 knots at spring tide. Away from these areas, the speed decreases to 2~3 knots and in open water its maximum speed is about 3 knots. The largest tidal range on the East coast of Greenland occurs in the south and is approximately 3.5m reducing to 1.0m at Scoresby Sund. At Kap Morris Jesup, it is only about 0.4m.

Ice

The diagram below gives a concept of the ice conditions likely to be encountered in the month of June. Conditions vary significantly from year to year. Excellent ice charts are available from http://www.dmi.dk/en/groenland/hav/ice-charts/ and satellite imagery is available from http://ocean.dmi.dk/arctic/satimg.uk.php.

Anyone venturing into these waters must study the ice conditions very carefully. For more detailed information on navigating in ice see the Greenland Pilot – General information.

Sailing in ice requires careful study of the direction in which the ice is moving. The forces acting on the ice, wind and current, mean that the direction of travel can change very quickly.

Bergs can be driven by wind or current or a combination of both. Smaller bergs and sea ice may move due to surface currents whilst larger bergs may be driven by a deeper current. Surface and deep water currents often flow in opposite directions.

When passing a berg it is best to pass to windward/in front of the berg as the leeward side is likely to have bergy bits and brash ice. Some bergs have long protruding toes below water, give them a wide berth to avoid running aground. If a berg looks unstable or is rolling, keep away as it may capsize causing a tidal wave. A disintegrating berg can create a small mountain of ice which will spread out in all directions very quickly.

Grounded bergs can give a good indication of water depth but can be very dangerous. Parts of the underwater area of a grounded berg may fracture and shoot to the surface with great force causing a significant tidal wave.

94

N

o 80 N Greenland

0o W

70o W

10o W Ittoqqortoormiito 70 N Scoresby Sund

Disko

Denmark Strait

Arctic Circle

60o W Iceland

Nuuk

20o W Paamiut Approximate Ice limits in June

Minimum Ice limit o 60 N Average Ice limit Cap Farvel Maximum Ice limit

Average maximum Iceberg limit 50o W 40o W 30o W

95

Ice field off the end of a glacier

It would not be wise to enter this concentration of ice!

96

Even the small bits could do damage

This iceberg has many cracks and could disintegrate at any time

Very beautiful but it is dangerous to go too close

97

Sea Ice with a berg and brash ice. Photo provided by Helen Gould

Close up of sea ice, about 300mm thick. Photo provided by Helen Gould

A Tuk (Ice pole) in action. Photo provided by Helen Gould

The following six photos (provided by Helen Gould) show a medium sized iceberg disintegrating. A loud bang drew our attention to the berg as one side slid off into the water. The whole berg started to roll first one way then the next shedding vast quantities of ice with every roll. Soon the surrounding area was strewn with bergy bits as can be seen in the final photo.

98

99

Harbour and anchorage information

N

o 80 N Greenland

0o W

70o W

10o W

o Ittoqqortoormiito 60 W 70 N Scoresby Sund

70o N Disko

Aasiaat Blosseville Coast Kangerlussuaq Sisimiut Fjord Denmark Strait

Andrea Arctic Circle Olsens Sund Iceland Tasiussaq 60o W Appamiutt Tasiilaq Maniitsoq Tovqussaq Nuuk

20o W Paamiut Narssaq

o Qaqortoq 60 N Prins Christian Sund Nanortalik Augpilagtoq Cap Farvel

50o W 40o W 30o W

100

Area 1

Scoresby Sund

Scoresby Sund is the largest fjord system in the world, it was named after William Scoresby senior, a British whaling captain.

It should be noted that most of the land north of Scoresby Sund is a national park and entry is not allowed without a permit.

Access to the sound is limited to late July and August due to ice. Average temperatures in July rarely exceed 5 OC, however much higher temperatures were seen in 2018. In recent years several yachts have managed to circumnavigate this large system of fjords. It is best to leave by September when sea ice is starting to form, and poor weather can be expected. By the beginning of October drift ice starts to arrive driven by the East Greenland Current. This ice can quickly block the entrance to Scoresby Sund, and it will remain blocked for 9 months. Although 80% of Greenland is permanently covered with ice, the rocks in Scoresby Sund are exposed providing a dramatic geological vista spanning over 3 billion years.

Warmer winds funnel down from the northern fjords, so the winter ice tends to clear earlier to the north of Milne Land than further south. South of Milne Land the channels are narrow, the ice tends to form more thickly in winter and does not break up and clear as fast as north Milne Land. It makes sense to head north in the early part of the season.

Although there is a significant current in Scoresby Sund, it appears to act only near the surface as deeper draught bergs are not affected by it.

In this area it is prudent to carry sufficient provisions for the entire trip as supermarkets have limited stocks and do not have regular deliveries. Leave the food on the shelves for the locals.

101

o o o

72N 71N 70N

N

Vejlefjord

Lillefjord

Scoresby Sund Scoresby

Amdrup Havn Amdrup

FoxBay

Storefjord

Kap Tobin Kap Kap Brewster Kap

Liverpool Land Liverpool Walrus Bugt

Carlsberg Fjord Carlsberg Hurry Fjord Hurry

Davy Sund

toqrtoormitt Ittoqqor

Fleming Fjord Fleming

Constable Pynt (Airport)

Jameson Land

o 24W

Volquart Boons Kyst

S h a ll o w

Stauning Alper Stauning Scoresby Sund

Syd Cap Syd

Hall Bredning Vikingbukten

Brede Glacier Brede

Bear Islands Bear Mudder Bugt Mudder

Pangey’s Passage

Jyttes Havn Jyttes

Kap Stevenson Kap

DougwalBugt HeklaHavn

Charcot Havn Charcot

Ø

Grundvigskirche 1977m

Nordvestfjord

fjord

Ø

Denmark

Milne Land Milne

Renland

Snesund

Fønfjord

Rypefjord

Leicester Leicester Bugt Gasefjord

o

28W Rødefjord

Harefjord

Eielson Glacier

Ternevigerne

Ankersvigen

Rolige Rolige Glacier Brae Vestfjord

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Ittoqqortoormitt - Anchorage 70O 28’.97N 21O 57’.90W From the south head for 70O 25’.388N 22O 01’.891W then turn towards 70O 28’.288N 21O 58’.067W this gives clear passage into the anchorage Anchor in 10~15m, mediocre holding, some kelp, maximum tidal range ~1m. The small pier is too shallow for most yachts. In 2019 there was a wooden pontoon off the pier, and this is a good place to leave a dinghy. Fuel and water available in cans. Note, this is the only source of fuel in Scoresby Sund. Fuel is available from a pump by the oil tanks on the west side of the village. Pay by credit card at the machine on the side of the nearby kiosk. If you require more than 400 litres a road tanker will come to the pier. Anchor off the pier and take a stern line ashore, then use your dinghy to bring the long fuel hose out to your boat. The kiosk is open from 0800-1600 if you wish to speak to someone. A blue pipe running through the village is the main water supply. Water can be obtained from taps along the pipe, such as outside the Tourist Information or the Supermarket. Supermarket, , has a wide range of goods at reasonable prices. Excellent community centre opposite the supermarket, with showers (DKK15 cash only) and laundry (3 washing machines and 3 driers). Visit the police who are very friendly and will stamp your passport. Tourist information, contact Mette at Nanu Travel phone +299 991 280, fax +299 991 070, email [email protected]. She is a local who speaks excellent English and is a mine of information. Nanu Travel sells meat from Musk Ox, Polar bear, Arctic Char and Geese. Nanu also sells the excellent Saga maps which show Scoresby Sund in considerable detail, including anchorages. There is a Met station on the hill to the east of the village, they may provide the latest ice reports. They are very helpful wishing sailors a safe passage, however it is a privilege and not a routine service. A doctor is normally in residence at the small medical centre. Guns and ammunition can be bought at the supermarket but are expensive. Guns can be hired from Nanu Travel, but pre-booking is advised. Guns must be carried once outside the town. Money, most cards are accepted. Visa is cheaper than others. There is surcharge for foreign cards. Recommend bringing some Danish Kroner for showers and laundry. Alternatively, a small amount of DKK can be obtained as cashback when buying something from the supermarket. This anchorage can be uncomfortable due to swell in which case it may be better to move to Amdrup Havn, one mile east or to Walrus Bugt, one mile to the West.

2158.5’No 2158’No 2157.5’No

N

7029’No Pier Ittoqqorto ormitt

10m line

Rocky Area

7028.9’No

103

Ittoqqortoormitt, photo provided by Simon Currin

Wooden pontoon (2019)

Ittoqqortoormitt, photo provided by Andrew Marsh

Amdrup Havn 70O 28’.00N 21O 55’.00W Anchor in 10m off the south shore about 600m from entrance. Kelp, katabatic winds. May contain bergy bits. The bottom is mainly rock and holding reportedly poor.

Walrus Bugt 70O 29’.7727N 21O 58’.8869W Anchor in 20m at the above location, good holding in sand, exposed to the south.

104

Walrus Bugt

Fox Bay – Anchorage 70O 27N 21O 56W Sheltered bay between Kap Tobin and Ittoqqortoormitt. A rock marked on the chart lies off the north side of the entrance and there are shallows near the south. Use channel just north of the centre with not less than 6m. Excellent holding in mud. Beware of polar bears.

Fox Bay, photo provided by Simon Currin

Constable Pynt Airport 70O 44’.619N 25O 39’.00W This airport makes crew changes possible in Scoresby Sund. A helicopter service connects Ittoqqortoormitt with Constable Pynt. There are regular flights to other airports in Greenland and Akureyri and Reykjavik in Iceland (Iceland Air). It is possible to land near the airport on a small stone pier at 70O 43’.753N 22O 38’.783W.

105

220 39’W 220 38’W 220 37’W 220 36’W 700 44.7’N

Airport N Terminal Buildings

Runway Constable Pynt

Mud flats 700 44’N

Beware, shallow

Stone pier

700 43.7’N

Charcot Havn - Anchorage 70O 46’.835N 25O 27’.8749W Large glacier bay situated on the East side of Milne Land. The glacier has receded up the valley leaving extensive mud banks and a heavy burden of silt in the bay. The beach appears to shelve steeply, anchor at the above point in 24m, See sketch plan. Give the moraine spit to the north east of the anchorage a wide berth.

It is possible to anchor off the South East side of the bay but shifting sands make it difficult to give a specific position.

106

25o 28’ W 25o 27’ W 25o 26’ W

N

70o 47.2’N

Charcot Havn 70o 47.1’N

70o 47’N

70o 46.9’N

70o 46.8’N

10m lin e 70o 46.7’N

70o 46.6’N

70o 46.5’N

Charcot Havn, photo provided by Andrew Marsh 107

The beach inshore of above anchorage point

Pangey’s Passage This channel east of Milne Land/west of Bear Islands (Bjørneøer) appears to be clean. The following waypoints give clear passage in the middle; from the south, 71O 01’.890N 25O 39’.422W to 71O 04’.064N 25O 39’.818W. Note, the next passage to the east is obstructed by rocks.

Bjørneøer (Bear Islands) These islands represent a cruising area in their own right, it would be easy to spend two weeks just exploring. However, great care is needed as there is little useful data on the charts.

108

25o42’ W 25o40’ W 25o 38’ W 25o36’ W 25o34’ W 25o32’ W 25o30’ W 25o28’ W 25o26’ W 25o24’ W 25o22’ W 25o20’ W 25o18’ W 25o16’ W 25o14’ W

N 71o 1 2’N

Bear Islands 71o 11’N

Renland 71o 1 0’N

71o 0 9’N

71o 0 8’N

71o 0 7’N

Fangsthus Øfjord 71o 0 6’N North West/East route

71o 0 5’N

Danger area East/West route 71o 0 4’N Sulugssut

Jyttes Havn 71o 0 3’N

71o 0 2’N Pangey’s Passage

71o 0 1’N Minne Minne Land

71o 0 0’N

70o 5 9’N

East to West route through Bjørneøer:-

71O 04’.5516N 25O 20’.6429W 71O 04’.7159N 25O 21’.1347W 71O 04’.7070N 25O 21’.9597W 71O 04’.7529N 25O 22’.6144W 10m 71O 04’.7543N 25O 22’.6853W beautiful old volcanic crater, anchorage possible but deep! 71O 04’.8407N 25O 23’.3449W

109

71O 05’.0222N 25O 24’.1539W 71O 04’.9689N 25O 24’.7723W 71O 05’.0799N 25O 25’.5528W 71O 05’.2071N 25O 25’.8746W 71O 05’.1516N 25O 26’.1233W 71O 05’.2937N 25O 27’.4423W 71O 05’.2937N 25O 27’.9557W 71O 05’.1487N 25O 29’.3264W 71O 04’.9786N 25O 29’.9437W 71O 05’.1598N 25O 31’.3449W This is off the main route but possible anchorage in 20m. 71O 04’.4480N 25O 31’.2354W 71O 04’.4355N 25O 31’.6634W 71O 04’.5450N 25O 33’.1329W Extreme care required, only 6.5m see detail below! 71O 04’.6708N 25O 33’.4913W 71O 05’.0319N 25O 35’.7699W

o 2 5 3 3o ’ W 2 5 3 2 . 8 ’ W

N 6m 7 1 0 4o . 6 5 ’ N

Detail of narrows in East/West route

7 1 0 4o . 6 ’ N

Rocky area 10m

6m 7 1 0 4o . 5 5 ’ N 10m

6m

Photo of rocky area in above diagram 110

Close up of rocky area

Northern West to East route through Bjørneøer:-

71O 07’.5672N 25O 32’.5287W 71O 07’.4639N 25O 32’.0332W 71O 07’.3264N 25O 31’.7547W 71O 07’.2185N 25O 31’.5994W 71O 06’.9658N 25O 31’.2410W Narrow, 7~10m deep. 71O 06’.7072N 25O 30’.8643W Between above and this point, anchorage is possible in 8m. 71O 06’.6747N 25O 30’.5629W 71O 06’.7116N 25O 30’.2204W 71O 06’.8491N 25O 29’.6405W 71O 06’.7101N 25O 28’.3255W 71O 06’.3316N 25O 26’.8825W 71O 06’.1793N 25O 26’.3300W 71O 05’.5058N 25O 25’.5788W 71O 05’.6942N 25O 24’.6838W 71O 05’.8302N 25O 21’.3207W

Jyttes Havn – NE Anchorage 71O 04’.183N 25O 37’.210W Stunning anchorage, good holding in 17m about 100m west of a large rock and 80m from shore. Approach from the north taking the most easterly inlets as various skerries guard the entrance. Charts not accurate but waypoint 71O 05’.046N 25O 39’.152W gave 20m into the anchorage. Astonishing views of the Cathedral Ranges and large grounded bergs just 200m from the anchorage.

111

2 5o 3 8 ’ W 25o 3 7’ W

7104.2’No N

Jyttes Havn o 7104.1’N

7104.’No

7103.9’No

7103.8’No

7103.7’No

10m line 7103.6’No

7103.5’No

7103.4’No

112

Jyttes Havn - North East anchorage

The rock viewed from above anchorage point (North East anchorage)

Jyttes Havn – SW Anchorage 71O 03’.6588N 25O 37’.7351W Anchor in 22m off the bay, yachts with shallow draught will find excellent shelter in the bay.

Sulugssut - Anchorage 71O 04’.4072N 25O 25’.3094W Charts show this bay as a channel! Enter from the South; waypoint 71O 03’.3240N 25O 22’.9160W gives a clear route into the anchorage. Anchor in 24m off the head of the bay.

113

Sulugssut Fangsthus - Anchorage 71O 06’.4712N 25O 20’.4862W A stunning small rocky cove, anchor at the above point in 30m, limited swinging room, lines ashore will be needed.

Fangsthus

Syd Cap (Kangerterajiva) - Anchorage 71O 18’.4134N 25O 04’.7562W This anchorage is in the small fjord just north of Syd Cap. Anchor in 15m in the South east corner of the fjord. Beware of boulders inshore of the anchor point. Swinging room is limited and the holding is poor.

25o 09’W 25o 08’W 25o 07’W 25o 06’W 25o 05’W

N o 71 18.6’N

71o 18.5’N Kangerterajiva

10m Line 71o 18.4’N

Boulders

71o 18.3’N

71o 18.2’N

71o 18.1’N

o 71 18.’N 114

25o 05’W 25o 04.5’W

71o 18.45’N

10m Line

71o 18.4’N

Boulders

N

Kangerterajiva

71o 18.35’N

Kangerterajiva

Rocks near the anchorage in Kangerterajiva

115

Syd Cap - Anchorage 71O 18’.3679N 24O 57’.1896W There is an anchorage inside the island but poor holding and insufficient swinging room. Anchoring off the huts at Syd Cap itself is not possible as the bottom shelves steeply. The best anchorage is at the above point in 20m, good holding and plenty of swinging room. Anchorage can be had anywhere in this area, but it is a bit exposed.

Syd Cap, note:- the anchorage position is somewhat East of where this photo was taken

Syd Kap restricted area. Entry is not allowed into the area south of a line from 71O 17’.87N 25O 02’.08W to 71O 18’.09N 25O 08’.27W. This area contains the remains of a 20th century station and several Thule Culture sites. If you wish to enter this area you must engage a guide.

Nordvestfjord The glaciers in this area produce very large icebergs 2-3km wide and over 400m deep. These icebergs can ground on rocks north of Bjørneøer (Bear Islands), when this happens there is a tendency for large pieces to break off and shoot to the surface. This can be very dangerous.

One of many very large bergs in the Nordvestfjord

Nordbugten - Anchorage 71O 37’.3020N 26O 28’.4230W This anchorage is inside the National Park and requires a permit for entry. Anchor off the river at the above point in 22m. A beautiful spot with stunning views, musk ox and seals. There is an alternative anchorage at 71O 35’.6298N 26O 29’.7483W, however it is deep close to the shore. It might be possible to anchor with a line ashore.

116

Nordbugten, note the sandbanks

Øfjord This stunning fjord runs east/west and is about 50 miles long. The mountains are 1 billion years old and formed of gneiss. The spectacular pink granite peak of Grundvigskirche towers 1977m above the fjord. The fjord is deep and is usually dotted with many large bergs. Beware of very strong katabatics in the afternoon from Rypefjord and Harefjord.

The spectacular peak of Grundvigskirche

117

Spectacular rock formations in Øfjord

Rype Fjord - Anchorage 71O 04’.7454N 27O 43’.7220W The fjord extends 14m NNW from the entrance. Anchor at the above point in 15m. The beach shelves steeply and the bottom is soft mud. A beautiful spot with views of the Eielson glacier. The glacier is not very productive and there are rarely many icebergs in the fjord.

The Eielson glacier at the top of Rype Fjord

118

270 45’W 270 44’W 270 43’W 270 42’W 270 41’W 710 06’N

N

Rype Fjord

Dries 710 05’N

710 04’N

Close up of the Eielson glacier – photo provided by Andrew Marsh 119

Mud banks inshore from the anchorage at low water

Aerial view of the mud banks – photo provided by Andrew Marsh

Harefjord/Ternevigene - Anchorage 70O 57’.462N 28O 03’.865W Waypoint of 70O 56’.973N 28O 05’.686W leads safely into the anchorage area. A beautiful place surrounded by red mountains and icebergs galore. A walk ashore to the hill overlooking the calving glacier at the head of the fjord gives a perfect panorama. Plenty of Musk Ox around, Great Northern Divers and seals. Anchor at the above point in 12m or go slightly further West into a beautiful sheltered pool, 70O 57’.3389N 28O 07’.1407W in 7m.

There is another bay further to the west with a river running into it and a small island on the West side of the entrance. Unfortunately, it is deep and then shelves steeply to the shore and does not provide good anchorage.

120

28o10’ W 28o00’ W

N 70o58’ N

Harefjord Ternevigerne

70o57’ N

Ha r e f j o r d

o 70 56’ N

28o 07.6’ W 28o 07.4’ W 28o 07.2’ W 28o 07’ W 28o 06.8’ W 28o 06.6’ W

N

70o 5 7.6’N

Ternevigerne

o 70 5 7.5’N

70o 5 7.4’N 6m line

10m line

70o 5 7.3’N

70o 5 7.2’N

121

Harefjord, photo provided by Simon Currin

Harefjord East anchorage

Harefjord West anchorage

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Rødefjord This fjord runs roughly north/south between Fønfjord and Øfjord and is about 20 miles long. The characteristic red colour of the mountains is Permian red sandstone with high levels of the iron mineral, haematite and many fossils. The middle of the fjord is deep with many large bergs. There are reports of a good anchorage off the North West point of Sorteø.

Permian red sandstone in Rødefjord

Ankersvigen- Anchorage 70O 21’.2801N 28O 08’.4867W There are a few hunters’ cabins here and sometimes campers. The shore shelves quite steeply and there are some running moorings with buoys. Anchor in 22m, good holding, very few bergy bits enter the anchorage.

Ankersvigen

Fønfjord This fjord runs in an east/west direction, it is about 35 miles long, and quite narrow with steep mountains either side. The mountains consist of gneiss covered by basalt. The fjord appears clean with depths of 300m or more. In 2018 the ice was slow to clear from this fjord.

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Denmark Ø

o o o o o o o o o o o o

70 33.0’N 70 32.0’N 70 31.0’N 70 30.0’N 70 28.0’N 70 27.0’N 70 34.0’N

70 29.0’N 70 26.0’N

o o

25 90.0’ W 25 90.0’

Ø

o o

25 95.0’ W 25 95.0’

N

Denmark

o o

26 00.0’ W 26 00.0’

Milne Land Milne

o o

shallow rocky shallow

26 05.0’ W 26 05.0’

Danger, 2m! than Depth area. less

o o

26 10.0’ W 26 10.0’

Ø

Dougwal Dougwal Bugt

o o

Hekla Havn

26 15.0’ W 26 15.0’

Denmark Denmark

o o

26 W 20.0’

o o

26 25.0’ W 26 25.0’ Milne Land

124

Hekla Havn - Anchorage 70O 26’.881N 26O 14’.619W A pleasant sheltered lagoon protected by a shallow entrance which prevents larger icebergs from drifting in. If approaching from the East, beware of a 2m patch at approximately 70O 26’.994N 26O 09’.085W, keep well offshore of this point. See chartlet on previous page. Head for 70O 26’.520N 26O 14’.679W then turn North to 70O 26’.756N 26O 14’.600W. This route takes you safely into the lagoon. Anchor at the above point in 12m, good holding in mud, maximum tidal range ~1m. There is a cairn to the East of the entrance. Local hunters use this area and have several fuel dumps on the rocks around the shore and cabin above the beach. In 1891 Lt Ryder of the Danish Royal Navy overwintered here in the Hekla. This is one of the best anchorages in Scoresby Sund.

26o 15’ W 26o 14’ W

70o 27.1’N N

Hunters’ Cabin

Hekla Havn

70o 27’N

10m l in e 70o 26.9’N

70o 26.8’N

Beehive Cairn

70o 26.7’N

70o 26.6’N

125

The entrance to Hekla Havn, the cairn is on the headland to the right (see below)

Cairn to the East of the entrance to Hekla Havn

Dougwal Bugt – Anchorage 70O 30’.4692N 26O 09’.7849W Anchorage is also possible in the fjord which runs south east from the Rensund. Approach from the west and use the following waypoints:-

70O 32’.8814N 26O 20’.7485W 70O 32’.3823N 26O 17’.2044W 70O 31’.8160N 26O 15’.8705W 70O 31’.4566N 26O 12’.9102W 70O 30’.6704N 26O 09’.4475W 70O 30’.4692N 26O 09’.7849W – Anchorage.

Anchor in 8m, soft mud and some kelp, do not go any closer to the shore as it shelves steeply and there are boulders. Climb the hill to the east of the anchorage and take in the stunning view. There are several other possible anchorages in this fjord.

126

26o 10’ W 26o 09.5’ W

70o 30.48’ N

1 0m li ne

N

Dougwal Bugt

70o 30.4’ N

Dougwal Bugt

It is reported that the channel to the East of Denmark Ø can be transited with care. There is a small island on the East side of the channel and just North of it a dangerous rock.

Mudderbugt – Anchorage 70O 35’.123N 25O 47’.447W This is a wide-open bay with several streams running into it and many bergs aground. There are several sandbanks and it shallows suddenly in many areas. It is difficult to find an anchorage spot which is shallow enough to keep the bergs out but deep enough to swing.

127

Mudderbugt

Vikingebugt - Anchorage 70O 20’.9512N 25O 03’.5096W The ice in this anchorage did not clear until late in the season in 2018. However, in 2019 it was open in early August. A polar bear and two cubs were seen on the east slopes near the anchorage. Enter past tall basalt columns similar to those on Staffa and the Giant’s Causeway. Beware of a shoal patch in approximately 70O 22’.057N 25O 02’.131W, the rest of the approach is deep then shelves steeply towards the shore. The anchorage is near the shore east of the small island. The following waypoints may be used:- Head for 70O 22’.1340N 25O 02’.7404W, then alter towards 70O 21’.6920N 25O 03’.8916W thence to the anchor position given above. The head of the bay dries out a long way and there are many boulders, take care! The anchorage given is in 8m with good holding in clay. Larger bergy bits cannot get into this area.

25o 04’W 25o 03.3’W

7021’No

N

7020.9’No

Viking Bugt

128

Vikingebugt, still blocked by ice in early August 2018

Vikingebugt, open in early August 2019

129

Area 2

East Greenland

o

o

o

22W

70N

69 N

Turner Su nd Turner

o

24W

Cap Dalton Cap

Knighton FjordKnighton

Roemer Fjord Roemer

HøstHavn

D’AunayBugt

o

26W

KapTupinier

Kap SavaryKap

~1 Knot current Knot ~1

Sokongen Bugt Sokongen Kap Vedel Kap

Blosseville Coast Blosseville o

28W

o

68 N

Kap Nansen Kap Wiedemann Fjord Wiedemann

o Nansen Fjord

30 W

Ryberg Fjord Ryberg

Suhaili Bugt Suhaili

Mikis Fjord Mikis

Uttental Sound Uttental

Watkins Fjord Watkins

N

o

KapDeichmann

32W East Greenland East

Kangerlussuak

Amdrup Fjord Kraemer Kraemer Ø 130

Kangerlussuaq – Fjord 68O 04’N 31O 50’W This is a large fjord, about 40 miles long with several small offshoots. Many large active glaciers feed into the fjord and it is always congested with bergs. Navigation can be a challenge, but the result is spectacular views of the mountains and glaciers.

Kraemer Ø, Suhaili Bugt – Anchorage 68O 10’.5965N 31O 44’.2520W Anchor in 7~10m in the north east corner of the bay, good holding in mud. Lines can be taken ashore. Entrance is from the west. North of Mellem Ø are three islets, leave the first two to starboard and the third to port. The entrance can be hard to identify due to the presence of icebergs and there is little detail on the chart. The following waypoints should be used:-

1 68O 06’.4973N 31O 45’.2151W 2 68O 07’.8320N 31O 47’.4834W 3 68O 08’.4194N 31O 47’.6511W 4 68O 09’.0814N 31O 47’.6176W 5 68O 09’.9616N 31O 46’.8123W 6 68O 10’.1819N 31O 46’.2166W 7 68O 10’.2245N 31O 45’.8660W 8 68O 10’.2431N 31O 45’.3688W 9 68O 10’.3395N 31O 45’.0349W 10 68O 10’.4099N 31O 44’.7013W 11 68O 10’.5343N 31O 44’.6479W 12 68O 10’.5965N 31O 44’.2520W Anchorage.

The above anchorage position is shallow enough to prevent larger growlers from being a problem.

There is an alternative entrance from Uttental sound. This route is marked as foul in some sailing directions, however, the author has surveyed this route and used it on several occasions. Use the following waypoints:-

68O 09.6835’N 31O 46.1625’W 68O 09.7866’N 31O 45.8087’W 68O 09.8085’N 31O 45.5241’W 68O 09.8491’N 31O 45.3477’W 68O 10.1521’N 31O 45.0202’W Thence towards the anchorage.

It is also possible to pass from Suhaili Bugt into Uttental Sound round the South East corner of Kraemer Ø. Tides run strongly in this area especially on the ebb. Use the following waypoints:-

68O 10.2534’N 31O 44.6076’W 68O 10.1278’N 31O 44.3851’W 68O 10.1356’N 31O 44.2843’W

The anchorage in Suhaili Bugt

131

31o 46’W 31o 45’W 31o 44’W 68o 11’N

N

Kangerlugssuaq Depths are in metres and are reduced to Chart Datum which is 3.0m below a mark on a South facing vertical Suhaili Bugt rock face at 68oo 10.65’N 31 44.37’W

62 1 2 4 Surveyed in August 1991 by: 7 4 3 Kraemer Ø 3 7 4 P. J. Z. Crickmere 9 Datum 73 J. T. Burdett 84 mark 7 of the yacht Suhaili 6 6 94 18 11 Master Sir R. Knox-Johnston 7 11 6 8 3 11 5 4 274 15 9 2 14 14 6 9 5 27 19 16 1 8 4 2 8 6 107 7 35 4 9 155 15 11 15 6 7 16 9 8 25 13 90 274 259 39 24

125

88 79

274

72 274 Suhaili Bugt 274 27 4

274 274 36 27 29 4 27 4

52 274 22 5 6 1 3 49 7 10 4 128 137 27 67 14 9 119 55 52 158 225 82 22 11 9 94 73 64 104 1 67 11 3 8 79 274 121 7 27 4 9 4 3 27 43 8 98 52 107 37 61 79 274 189 34 55 171 24 125 274 3 06 27 52 4 207 12 Mellem Ø 06 24 61

Lille 9 Mellem Ø Uttental Sund o 13 68 10’N 31o 46’W 31o 45’W 31o 44’W

The original chart from which the above chartlet is derived was kindly provided by Sir R. Knox- Johnston

132

The datum mark used by the crew of Suhaili when making the above chartlet

Uttental Sund 68O 10’N 31O 47’W There is an abandoned Inuit settlement in the south east part of the sound. The Forbindelse glacier flows into the sound on the east side but it is not very active. Just North of the glacier the sound is quite shallow, keep to the West shore. The north entrance to the sound is reputed to be partially blocked by a reef which almost dries at low water and prevents bergs from Watkins Fjord from entering. However, these bergs break up in the shallows and send bergy bits south in Uttental Sound. The flood tide flows North in the sound.

133

31o 48 ’W 31o 47’W 31o 46’W 31o 45’W 31o 44’W 31o 43’W 31o 42 ’W 31o 41’W

Watkins Fjord

Shallow

36 Shallow o 13 6813’N

25 3 N Purdey’s Place

55 Uttental Sound

o 70 6813’N

40 13

40

18 Sha llow Uttental Sound 13 13 5 21 o 25 6812’N

50

80 Kraemer Ø

35 6811’No Forbindelses Glacier

100 Suhaili Bugt

15 20 6.0 6810’No 17 12 20 14 6.0 2.0

45 Duck Pool 15

6809’No

134

Purdeys Place – Anchorage 68O 13.5558’N 31O 46.6711’W Anchor in 13m off the stream. Beautiful spot with views north to the mountains and glaciers in Watkins Fjord. It may be necessary to fend off bergy bits.

31o 46.9’W 31o 46.6’W

68o 13.6’N

10m Line

N

Purdey’s Place

68o 13.5’N

Purdeys Place anchorage with the stream behind 135

Anchorage with the peaks of Watkins Fjord beyond

North of Forbindelses Glacier – Anchorage 68O 10.934’N 31O 41.894’W Approach from the middle of the fjord as there is a reef just south of the above position. Anchor in 17m.

Anchorage with receding Forbindelses glacier beyond

Reef just South of anchorage

136

Off the abandoned Inuit village – Anchorage 68O 09.5988’N 31O 44.4642’W Anchor in 10m. This anchorage must be approached from the South, the North entrance is foul with rocks. A strong tide sets through the anchorage. There is no detail on the chart, use the following waypoints in the approach:-

68O 09.3335’N 31O 45.7929’W 68O 09.2898’N 31O 45.4653’W 68O 09.3335’N 31O 45.0452’W 68O 09.5679’N 31O 44.6170’W 68O 09.6024’N 31O 44.4660’W - Anchorage Beware of rocks close inshore from the anchorage.

Rocks off the abandoned village

View of the abandoned village

Duck Pool – Anchorage 68O 09.7120’N 31O 43.3805’W Very secluded spot, the pool is completely enclosed and almost no ice comes in. Anchor in 10m at the head of the pool in the above position off the stream. It is also possible to anchor slightly further out in 20m. There is no detail on the chart; from the abandoned Inuit village head North to 68O 09.7159’N 31O 44.3390’W then turn into the pool heading for 68O 09.7237’N 31O 43.9527’W. Good water from the stream.

137

3 1o 4 5 ’ W 31o 4 4 ’ W 3 1o 4 3 ’ W

Uttental Sound N 6809.9’No Danger Shallow

Duck Pool 6809.8’No

10m Line o Danger Shallo w 6809.7’N

o Abandoned 6809.6’N Inuit Settlement

6809.5’No

Duck Pool anchorage

Miki Fjord - Anchorage 68O 09’.9842N 31O 20’.0880.0W Easy to enter, mid fjord is deep. Bergs come into the fjord with the flood tide and run aground. There are two possible anchorages. The first is off a river in the North West corner of the fjord, however, this anchorage is shoal close in and is subject to swell. Better anchorage may be had at the North East corner of the fjord. When approaching this anchorage at the head of the fjord great care must be exercised as the fjord dries out a long way and the bottom comes up very steeply. Anchor in the above position in 20m, thick mud, good holding.

The following waypoints should be used:-

1 68O 03’.7865N 31O 24’.1428W 2 68O 05’.9380N 31O 25’.4390W 3 68O 06’.8313N 31O 26’.7570W 4 68O 08’.1894N 31O 30’.2602W 5 68O 09’.2621N 31O 29’.7746W 138

6 68O 09’.5979N 31O 26’.8610W 7 68O 09’.6108N 31O 23’.3925W 8 68O 09’.9293N 31O 20’.5917W 9 68O 09’.9842N 31O 20’.0880W Anchorage

View of the shoal area to the North of the Miki Fjord anchorage

Bergs aground West of the Miki Fjord anchorage

Ryberg Fjord - Anchorage 68O 06’.0086N 30O 30’.9451W This anchorage is in a 1 mile long bay on the port hand when entering Ryberg Fjord. Anchor at the above position, good holding in 10~20m. Little ice comes into the anchorage and fresh water is available from the glacier. The entrance to the fjord is at approximately 68O 06’.5N 30O 26’.0W, the chart is a long way out here! The entrance is often congested with bergs which are aground, and it is necessary to manoeuvre round them.

139

Bergs aground at the entrance to the Ryberg Fjord anchorage

Bay in Ryberg Fjord, photo provided by Mikko Oksanen

The Blosseville Coast

Sailing along this coast can be a challenge due to the prevalence of ice and strong currents/tides. Navigation can be very difficult due to the presence of ice fields, particularly in the South West of the region. It is probable that large bergs run aground in relatively shallow water and drift ice piles up behind these bergs. The ice then curves out away from the land in a wide arc turning South and South West. These areas of drift ice do not show up well on radar. The radar may indicate that there is no ice only ¼ of a mile away. However, in reality the ice may stretch for many miles. These ice fields are moving quickly with the current and a vessel can easily become trapped. If the ice is becoming a problem, head out away from the coast. If you do become trapped, stop and wait for a lead of open water to appear. This usually happens quite quickly but you may have to wait for the tide to turn. The East Greenland current flows South West along the Blosseville coast and the flood tide runs North East. Hence, when the tide is flooding it may lead to a northerly overall flow of the current. During the ebb the tide adds to the flow making the current stronger. 140

The above photo shows the ice field stretching away from the land

Soon the density of the ice can be seen clearly

This radar picture shows our track as a red line, the dots are the ice field. You can see that we were on an approximately northerly track but we have had to turn through 180 degrees to get out of the ice.

141

Wiedemann Fjord – Anchorage 69O 00’.0N 25O 23’.0W Not visited by author. Anchor on the East side in 15m off river.

Søkongen Bugt – Anchorage 68O 40’.0N 25O 26’.31W Not visited by author. Anchor on the East side in 16m.

D’Aunay Bugt – Anchorage 69O 00’.0N 25O 23’.0W Anchorage can be found towards the head of the main arm in either the NW or NE bays.

Host Havn – Anchorage 69O 15’.0N 24O 50’.0W Anchor in 15m at the head of the bay.

Knighton Fjord – Anchorage 69O 22’.43N 24O 30’.57W Anchor in 5m at the entrance to the north east bay. There is a rocky reef which gives shelter, this can be seen on Google Earth.

Cap Dalton – Anchorage 69O 25’.64N 24O 07’.4W Anchor in 5m, a nice anchorage with lots of driftwood. Polar bears have been seen in this area. The entrance to the anchorage is at 69O 25’.9N 24O 07’.3W.

Cap Dalton, photo provided by Mikko Oksanen

Roemer Fjord – Anchorage 69O 43’.7N 23O 41’.55W Anchor in 10m, a well-sheltered anchorage to the west of Turner Ø with little swell. There is a hot spring with water at 40 OC. A current flows through the anchorage, be prepared to fend off bergs. There is a hunter's hut with "Qualaativaaje Ittua" written on the roof. A lot of hunting goes on here with whale and seal bones ashore as well as spent ammunition. Wonderful flora (flowering sedum) around the hot pools and elsewhere. Arid volcanic mountains with a basalt headland protecting the inner fjord from swell.

142

Roemer fjord, photo provided by Simon Currin

Hot spring in Roemer Fjord, photo provided by Mikko Oksanen

Turner Sund – Anchorage 69O 45’.7N 23O 27’.45W Anchor in 7m. When entering from the west keep about 0.5 cable off the low stony cape on the port side with depth of about 7m. Some guides say this west entrance is too shallow, but it has been used regularly. The approach from the east is easier, aim for the middle of the entrance. Useful positions near the above mentioned stony cape are 69O 45’.08N 23O 27’.35W and 69O 45’.08N 23O 27’.40W.

143

Area 3 South East Greenland

34o W 33o W 32o W

68o N

N Nordre Aputiteq

Greenland o o o South East 38o W 37o W 36 W 35 W 67 N

39 oW

66o N 40 oW Kangertivartikajik Fjord

Bluie East II

Kap Dan Qernertivartivit Tasiilaq

Angmagssalik

65o N

64o N

Kap Mosting

63o N

43o W 42o W 41o W

Nordre Aputiteq - Anchorage 67°46’.8402N 032°15’.696W Small natural harbour (~ 200m x 80m) within SW bay of Nordre Aputiteq Island. The bay is deep and allows large bergs in from W-SW.

144

Approach harbour from NW. A reef protecting the entrance is awash at low tide, keep to east side of entrance. Depth is 4~6m throughout the entrance bottom is sand, no ice within harbour. Negligible swinging room but many options for lines ashore. Southern entrance untried, but shallow with rocks awash. Abandoned research/meteorological station on the island, NW of anchorage. Freshwater pools within granite basin to south of anchorage. Bear bones found ashore.

The yacht Teddy at anchor, viewed from North. Note reef(s) to right of entrance

Kangertivartikajik Fjord - Anchorage 65°58’.1117N 036°19’.0186W Small bay (150m across) on south side of western-leading fjord arm. Open to ice from north/east good holding in 4~10m, silt/mud. Very protected from wind and sea; potential for katabatics/williwaws off surrounding hills.

Yacht Teddy at anchor, viewed from west

145

Bluie East II - Anchorage 65°56’.6493N 036°39’.4729W This is an unprotected anchorage and should only be used in fair weather. Anchor in 6m off wharf and abandoned US WWII site, take care, there are some rocks to avoid. Stern anchor required to hold vessel parallel to shore. By anchoring in shallow water you are clear of large bergs. Trout and char in lake beside airfield.

Yacht Teddy anchored to right of photo; trout and char from lake

Qernertivartivit - Anchorage 65°42’.7105N 037°16’.8518W Small bowl (100m across) between 3 islets to south of Qernertivartivit settlement. Approach through narrow (50m) channel from north in 5 – 8m. Anchor in 6m sand with shore line to north, plenty of options for shore lines. Protected from all angles from sea/wind and ice.

Yacht Teddy at anchor, viewed from the south. Northern entrance channel behind

146

Angmagssalik Island - Anchorage 65°46’.8600N 037°27’.5216W Deep anchorage close to shallow shoal directly offshore of small stream on western side of fjord. Anchor about 150m from shore in 12 – 16m mud. Beware shoals steeply about 100m from shore. Protected from south by islets and shoals within fjord. Open to wind and katabatics (potentially). Copious mussels ashore.

The information and photos for the above five anchorages was provided by Nicholas Kats and the crew of the yacht Teddy. Josh Scarrow, Diego Lopez and Darren.

Tasiilaq 65°37’.0N 037°30’.00W The approach requires caution; there are dangerous rocks off Cap Dan which should be given a wide berth. The harbour is busy but a berth may be found. Alternatively, it is possible to anchor outside the harbour in 3~6m, beware, the shore shelves steeply! Good supermarkets, fuel available alongside and water of reportedly dubious quality.

147

Area 4

South Greenland

o

o

60N

61N

o

62N

o

42W

Grydevig

Prins Christian Christian Prins Sund

Niaqomaq

Weather Station Weather

o

Lindenow Fjord Lindenow

43W

Kangerdlutsiaq

o

Cap Farvel Cap

44W

Aappilattoq

Qaqortoq Fjord Qaqortoq

o

Qagssiarssuk Roedes denboplads Eric

45W

o

Nanortalik

Stordalens Stordalens Havn

Unartoq

46W

Qaqortoq

o

47W

Narssaq

o

48W

o

Bangs Havn Bangs

49W

o

50W

Narssalik

N

Paamiut

South

Greenland

148

Paamiut 62°00’.00N 049°40’.00W The approach is often made difficult by ice brought by the east Greenland current and it can be difficult to identify the entrance. A berth can normally be found on one of the quays. There is a supermarket and helpful tourist information office. Fuel and water are available.

Narssalik - Anchorage 61°39’.41N 049°18’.86W A small village with small boat jetty, there can be a lot of ice in the sound. The entrance to the marked anchorage is very shallow. An alternative anchorage is in the main bay in 10m, however, ice enters this anchorage. There is a significant offset between chart and GPS position here. When in mid channel the GPS fix on Navionics charts shows you firmly aground and in the village to the south!

Bangs Havn - Anchorage 60°49’.56N 047°56’.41W Enter in mid channel, 100m from either shore. Anchor in 12m in the western arm, good holding and stream ashore with good water.

Narssaq 60°54’.45N 046°02’.66W A pretty town with a dramatic approach including ice and bergy bits from nearby glaciers. Anchoring is possible but rather exposed, good holding reported. Berth inside the L shaped pier in 4m, excellent shelter. There are supermarkets, fuel is available at a floating dock. Internet is available at the tourist information centre.

Qaqortoq 60°43’.05N 046°02’.13W This is an attractive town, the largest in southern Greenland and the fourth largest in Greenland. The harbour is exposed to the south, southerly winds are not common but when they do occur it may be necessary to leave and seek alternative shelter. Anchoring is not possible and the harbour is crowded but a berth can normally be found. There are several supermarkets and a very convenient floating fuel dock.

Qaqortoq Fjord - Anchorage 60°49’.3N 045°44’.8W Good anchorage, some current. Do not go further into the fjord as there is an uncharted overhead cable.

Qagssiarssuk – Erik den Roedes boplads - Anchorage 61°09’.2N 045°30’.5W

Unartoq - Anchorage 60°30’.6N 045°19’.1W Delightful anchorage with a hot spring. Anchor in 14m on the west side of the isthmus, excellent holding. Large, grounded icebergs present in both east and west anchorages. There is a wooden jetty and floating pontoon for tenders in the southern part of the western bay. A path leads from the dock to the pool which has a couple of changing rooms. The hot pool is large with lush vegetation around it and a spectacular backdrop of mountains. Great place but obviously has many visitors.

Nanortalik 60°08’.0N 045°14’.0W This is the last large settlement on the west coast before Prins Christian Sund. It is surrounded by mountains and subject to severe squalls. The harbour is exposed to the south east and can be blocked by ice up to late July particularly in southerly winds. Anchoring space is limited but a berth can probably be found alongside. There is a floating fuel dock and a well stocked supermarket. Water is available from taps but own containers are necessary. Showers are available at the local hotel. 149

There is also an excellent tourist information centre. If the harbour is busy there is good anchorage in 5~10m in the bay just north of the town. The approach requires care. The local museum should not be missed, excellent guides.

Nanortalik harbour, photo provided by Anne-Brit and Rune

Nanortalik harbour, photo provided by Anne-Brit and Rune

Stordalens Havn - Anchorage 60°09’.7N 044°27’.4W The fjord shelves steeply from 40m to 10m and the above position is quite shallow.

Aappilattoq 60°09’.00N 044°17’.10W A small fishing village inside a snug natural harbour, a temporary berth may be found alongside on the east side of the quay. Anchoring is possible at approximately 60°08’.941N 044°17’.249W, some 150

kelp makes holding a little difficult however not a big problem. A shore line can be used when anchoring close to the fish pier. The entrance to the harbour is narrow. It can get blocked if large icebergs are present. Quite good grocery supplies, diesel and petrol are available, bring own cans (contact the grocery store.) Internet is available in the “office building” (some locals also have connection). People are very friendly and helpful.

Aappilattoq harbour, photo provided by Daniel Johansson and Will Barnes

Aappilattoq harbour, photo provided by Daniel Johansson and Will Barnes

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Aappilattoq harbour, photo provided by Anne-Brit and Rune

Niaqomaq – Anchorage 60°09’.87N 044°06’.56W Anchor in 12m, good holding in mud, some kelp.

Prins Christian Sund This sound normally remains blocked by ice until late July and is subject to strong winds and currents. However, it is deep, narrow, spectacular and not to be missed. Check the ice situation carefully before attempting to transit.

Prins Christian Sund, photo provided by Anne-Brit and Rune

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Prins Christian Sund Weather Station 60°03’.47N 043°10’.52W The station has been unmanned since 2016. It may not be possible to go alongside the dock due to ice however, it is possible to anchor in 14m just North of the leading lines, some kelp but otherwise good holding.

The weather station Prins Christian Sund, photo provided by Simon Currin

Kangerdlutsiaq - Anchorage 59°59’.3N 043°51’.6W

Grydevig - Anchorage 60°35’.41N 042°56’.94W This anchorage lies in a bay, formed by a hanging valley some 2 miles up a narrow, deep fjord. The fjord runs east to west and you enter the concealed bay on the north shore over a 6m bar. The bottom comes up very steeply mid channel. There can be a lot of ice both in the fjord and in the anchorage. The bar keeps the large icebergs out, however smaller icebergs enter via the bar or through a shallow gap between an islet and the land in the south west. The pool itself is very deep and swinging room is limited. Anchorage is possible, preferably off the waterfall on the north side in 16m. There is some kelp and holding is not great.

Grydevig, photo provided by Simon Currin

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Area 5 West Greenland

N

West Greenland

60o W

50o W

70o N Godhavn Disko

Qasigiannguit Basisø Kitissunguit 69o N Aasiaat

Kangaatsiaq Faeringe Nordhaven 68o N Tulugaq

Sisimiut o Andrea 67 N Olsens Sund

Cruncher Island

o o Tasiussaq 66 N 60 W Appamiutt

Maniitsoq 65o N

Tovqussaq

Nuuk 64o N

63o N

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Godhavn - Anchorage 69°14’.795N 055°33’.087W Considerable ice in the approach from the south west. The anchorage itself is clear of ice but obstructed by many moorings. Very sheltered and good holding, the bottom is said to be foul but was found to be clean on a recent visit (2018). Fuel available in small boat harbour, good supermarket.

Basisø Kitsissunnguit - Anchorage 68°50’.119N 051°58’.196W

Qasigiannguit - Anchorage 68°48’.482N 051°11’.353W Anchor in mid channel before the small boat moorings, 5m mud. Good supermarket, hospital, post office and police. Fuel alongside near container berth.

Aasiaat 68°42’.43N 052°52’.64W This is a large settlement with an excellent harbour. Disco Bay freezes completely in winter and even in late August one can expect to encounter ice. The harbour itself is usually ice free by June and remains so until November. The harbour is very busy, it may be possible to go alongside the main dock. Alternatively, anchor off. There is a large reasonably priced supermarket, DIY store, chandlery in shipyard and a hospital. The fuel station also has some basic chandlery. Guns and ammunition are on sale everywhere. The fuel dock has limited draught and no water. Propane bottles can be exchanged at Polar Oil - the blue building behind the Fisherman's Mission. Dive cylinders can be filled at the fire station.

The Fisherman's Mission is a hotel which was being modernised in 2017. A double room cost £150 with breakfast in 2017. Wifi 60DKK/hour, cafe, showers and laundry. There are ferry connections from here to Sisimiut, Disko and Illulisat and flights by fixed wing aircraft to Kangerlussuaq and Ilullisat.

It is possible to layup for the winter in Aasiaat either on a mooring, not recommended as the harbour freezes and there are reports of vessels sustaining damage, or ashore. Haul out can be arranged with the local shipyard, contact:- Shariar Bordbar, Sisak Teknik, Aasiaat Postbox 213 3950 Aasiaat. Email [email protected] phone +299 89 20 91

Vessels awaiting haul out can go alongside shipyard's pontoon which is, in fact, a rusting barge tucked in behind a wrecked fishing boat. There is electricity on the pontoon but no water. The pontoon is adjacent to the slip and has a depth of 2.5m alongside. The slipway can accommodate vessels up to 100 tonnes and 4m draught.

Haul out is quite expensive but the shipyard staff appear to be very careful. If overwintering, expect temperatures down to -35°C with up to 2m ice in the harbour during January and February. Climate is said to be dry.

If you have been using Aasiaat Radio, please take the time to go and meet them. They are very welcoming and love to meet crew from visiting yachts.

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Aasiaat, photo provided by Simon Currin

Kangaatsiaq - Anchorage 68°18’.33N 053°??’.00W Anchor just outside the mole off the small quay, good holding.

Faeringe Nordhavn - Anchorage 67°39’.228N 053°38’.178W Anchor in the above position in 6m sand, very good holding.

Tulugaq - Anchorage 67°00’.40N 053°45’.432W Anchor in the above position, 9m mud, well-protected and good swinging room. The bottom is reported as foul with old fishing gear.

Sisimiut 66°56’.31N 053°40’.06W A very busy harbour popular with cruise liners, a new quay is under construction. There are sheltered deep water berths along the eastern quay, but they are often occupied by speed boats. It is usually possible to raft against a fishing boat. Electricity on the dock, no fees charged. Internet and showers are available in the Soemandhjemmet Hotel. There is a good bistro restaurant at the Sisimiut Hotel 15 minutes walk up the hill from the dock. Anchorage is possible near the shore to the West of the harbour. The bottom is thin sand with kelp and shelves steeply. Not good in Southerly winds.

Andrea Olsens Sund - Anchorage 66°28’.39N 053°39’.11W Holding reported as poor. Depths are as charted on the eastern side of the island, but it shelves dramatically at the southern end of the surveyed area.

Cruncher Island 66°01’.00N 053°34’.00W A spectacular anchorage, beware of drying rock at eastern entrance. Anchor in 7m, mud. 156

Tasiussaq - Anchorage 65°52’.35N 052°48’.75W Anchor to the SE of the 26m sounding in about 14m, good holding. Spectacular views of the glaciers and mountains

Appamiutt - Anchorage 65°39’.68N 053°09’.19W This is possibly one of the best anchorages in Greenland with stunning views of Hamborgerland to the south. It is possible to go all the way in behind the middle island in the eastern anchorage with about 4 or 5m depth. Further out there is good holding in 8m.

Appamiutt, photo provided by Simon Currin

Maniitsoq 65°24’.78N 052°53’.81W A long, rather flimsy pontoon provides convenient berthing. There are no services on the pontoon and a key is required for access ashore. The pontoon is managed by the Hotel Maniitsoq (conspicuous blue building on top of the cliff). They charge 125 DKK / night with an additional DKK 500 deposit for the key! Fuel and water are available alongside until 13:00 most days There are several supermarkets an airport and a hospital.

Maniitsoq, photo provided by Simon Currin

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Tovqussaq - Anchorage 64°52’.56N 052°11’.66W Anchoring is difficult due to extensive kelp. Anchorage has been achieved in the SE part of the bay. Many abandoned buildings ashore as this was a fishing station.

Nuuk 64°10’.13N 051°43’.47W Nuuk is the capital of Greenland with a population of approximately 17,000. The harbourmaster’s office is very helpful and can give advice on local conditions. There are two approaches. From the South there is the Narssaq Løb; this wide route is sheltered and reasonably free from dangers including ice. From the West is the Nordløb; this is the main shipping route. It is deep but quite narrow and always has some small icebergs. The harbour is now undergoing considerable development including a new container terminal to be completed in 2017. This has somewhat changed the chart as three islands have been joined by causeways to create the new terminal. Visitors berths are very limited, but yachts normally berth in the Kutterkaj in the South West corner of the harbour, if in doubt request a berth from the harbourmaster. In 2017 a berth for 4 days (minimum) cost 70 DKK This is a very busy harbour with customs (Telepost), water, fuel, chandlery(Vonin), supermarkets and repair facilities available. The port is run by a company called Sikuki who are very helpful, particularly Johan whose email is [email protected] It is possible to hire a crane (100 ton) for a lift out but there is no secure storage ashore. There is a weekly supply ship from Denmark. Showers, wifi and Laundry are available at the Somandshuemmet which is effectively a 3 star hotel. Reasonably priced accommodation and food.

Ravns Støroe - Anchorage 62°42’.75N 050°23’.61W Easy approach from the south using leading lines. Anchor in the south harbour in 14m, excellent holding 100m from the shore. Ashore there are the ruins of an old Faroese fishing station. It is fascinating to meander round the old sheds, rowing boats and the other paraphernalia of this abandoned fishing community. Wonderful carpet of lichens and mosses.

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JAN MAYEN (NORWAY)

Jan Mayen is a really interesting island dominated by the mighty Beerenberg volcano, but the chances are high that you may be unable to get ashore. There are no facilities and no harbour. The station is military, but the Loran C station is no longer active. Nevertheless, there are about 25 people stationed there, most of them civilian. The VHF is not always manned but you can call the station initially on channel 16 before proceeding to a working channel. The station manager can grant a 24 hour permit to visit the Island. If planning a longer stay it is necessary to apply to “Fylkesmannen” in Bodø (Norway); [email protected] The whole island except Kvalrossbukta and the area around the station is a protected zone with restricted access. The official Norwegian Pilot Book, Den Norske Los 7 (Chapter 10) has excellent information on all aspects of Jan Mayen and is essential reading before visiting the Island. Den Norske Los 7 (in English) can be downloaded free at http://www.kartverket.no/Kart/Nautiske- hjelpemidler/Den-norske-los/

N

Jan Mayen

70o N

Kvalrossbukta Eggøya

Båtvika

o 9o W 8 W

Kvalrossbukta – Anchorage 70°58’.0N 08°41’.5W This is the best anchorage at Jan Mayen. The bay is well protected in winds from NE to S but useless if the wind is from west. Anchor in 16m, sand. The only road on the Island goes from Kvalrossbukta to Olonkinbyen where the station is located. 70°55’.4N 08°43’.7W

Eggøya (Egg island) – Anchorage 70°58’.0N 08°24’.9W Reasonable shelter from NW winds, anchor in 12m, excellent holding in volcanic sand.

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Eggøya, photo provided by Geir Evjen

Båtvika – Anchorage 70°55’.0N 08°45’.0W The bay is rather narrow and only recommended in favourable conditions, the bay is also subject to swell and underwater currents, anchor in 8 metres, good holding.

An alternative anchorage is available outside the bay in 70°55’.7N 08°41’.7W. Anchor in 20m, excellent holding. Due to the proximity of the mountains this area is prone to wind shifts, swell can also be a problem.

Båtvika, photo provided by Geir Evjen

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------Appendix 1 Icelandic Traffic Monitoring Service

Vessel Information report.

Name of vessel:- Pangey Call sign:------MMSI:------Persons onboard:- 1 Name:------Nationality:- British Passport Number:------Type of vessel:- Yacht, Centre Cockpit Ketch Hull colour:- White with blue line, white sails. Length of vessel:- 12.64m Sail number:- VHF:- Yes – VSMD9 e-mail:------Mobile telephone number:------Satphone number:------

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Appendix 2

ICELANDIC English J A jokulsa...... glacial river a...... river, stream all ...... narrow deep channel jokull...... glacier austur...... east K B kaupstadhur...... town baer...... farm kirkja ...... church bakki...... bank of a river klettur...... rock, cliff bard (bord) ...... verge, brink kollur...... summit bjarg ...... rock, cliff L bodhi (bodhar)...... rock, awash or submerged laxa...... salmon river borg (borgir)...... town, rocky hill leir ...... mud, clay botn ...... head of a fjord lending ...... landing place breidhur ...... broad, wide litli...... little breki ...... breaker lon ...... inlet, lagoon brekka...... hillside, slope M bugur ...... bay, bight muli...... headland D myri...... swamp dalur ...... valley N djup ...... deep nef, nes...... point drangur (drangar) ...... isolated rock or cliff nordhur...... north E nupur...... peak ey (eyjar) ...... island nyrdhri ...... northerly eidhi ...... isthmus O eyri ...... gravel or sand spit oddi ...... tongue of land eystri...... eastern os...... river mouth F pollur...... pool fell, fjall (fjoll) ...... mountain or hill R fjara ...... low tide, beach reykur...... smoke fjordhur (firdhir)...... fjord rif...... reef fljot...... large river S floi ...... large bay sandur...... sand flat foss ...... waterfall skagi ...... large peninsula G skeidh ...... flat land gardhurinn...... mole sker...... reef, skerry gerdhi ...... fence sljetta ...... plain gill ...... ravine, gulley standhur...... place, parsonage gja...... fissure, rift steinn ...... stone grunn ...... shoal bank stor ...... great H strond ...... beach, shore hals ...... isthmus, long hill sudhur...... south hamar ...... precipice sydhri ...... southerly heidhi ...... heath T hlidh ...... slope, mountain-side tangi ...... narrow point hnjukur ...... peak tindur ...... peak hofdhi ...... headland V hofn (hafnir) ...... vardha ...... beacon holmi, holmur...... islet vatn ...... lake hop ...... landlocked inlet vestri ...... western hraun ...... lava field vestur ...... west hvammur...... hollow vik ...... bay, cove hvoll ...... hill viti...... lighthouse hyrggur...... ridge vogur...... bay, inlet hyrna ...... peak vollur (vellir)...... fields I Y innri...... inner ytri...... outer

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Appendix 3

ICE CHART SYMBOLS

The World Meteorology Organization (WMO) system for sea ice symbols is more frequently referred to as the "Egg Code" due to the oval shape of the symbol.

Ct - Total concentration of ice in area, reported in tenths. May be expressed as a single number or as a range, not to exceed two tenths (3-5, 5-7 etc.)

Ca Cb Cc - Partial concentration (Ca, Cb, Cc) are reported in tenths, as a single digit. These are reported in order of decreasing thickness. Ca is the concentration of the thickest ice and Cc is the concentration of the thinnest ice.

Sa Sb Sc - Stages of development (Sa, Sb, Sc) are listed using the code shown in Table 1 below, in decreasing order of thickness. (NOTE: If there is a dot (.), all stages of development codes to the left of the dot (.) are assumed to carry the dot (.)) These codes So Sd correspond directly with the partial concentrations above. Ca is the concentration of stage Sa, Cb is the concentration of stage Sb, and Cc is the concentration of Sc.

So Sd - Development stage (age) of remaining ice types. So if reported is a trace of ice type thicker/older than Sa. Sd is a thinner ice type which is reported when there are four or more ice thickness types.

Fa Fb Fc - Predominant form of ice (floe size) corresponding to Sa, Sb and Sc respectively. Table 2 below shows the codes used to express this information.

Table 1. Egg Codes for Stages of Ice Development (Sx Codes) Stage of Development Code Stage of Development for Sea Ice Figure for Fresh Water Ice New Ice-Frazil, Grease, Slush, Shuga (0-10 cm) 1 New Ice (0 - 5 cm) Nilas, Ice Rind (0 - 10 cm) 2 Young (10 - 30 cm) 3 Gray (10 - 15 cm) 4 Thin Ice (5 - 15 cm) Gray - White (15 - 30 cm) 5 Medium Ice (15 - 30 cm) First Year (30 - 200 cm) 6 First Year Thin (30 - 70 cm) 7 Thick Ice (30 - 70 cm) First Year Thin - First Stage (30 - 70 cm) 8 First Stage Thick Ice (30 - 50 cm) First Year Thin - Second Stage (30 - 70 cm) 9 Second Stage Thick Ice (50 - 70 cm) Medium First Year (70 - 120 cm) 1. Very Thick Ice (70 - 120 cm) Thick First Year (>120 cm) 4. Old - Survived at least one season's melt (>2 m) 7. Second Year (>2 m) 8. Multi-Year (>2 m) 9.

Ice of Land Origin

Table 2. Egg Codes for Forms of Ice (Fx Codes) Code Forms of Sea Ice Forms of Fresh Water Ice Figure Belts and Strips symbol ~F followed by ice concentration New Ice (0-10 cm) X Pancake Ice (30 cm - 3 m) 0 Brash Ice (< 2m) 1 Ice Cake (3 - 20 m) 2 Small Ice Floe (20 - 100 m) 3 Medium Ice Floe (100 - 500 m) 4 Big Ice Floe (500 m - 2 km) 5 Vast Ice Floe (2 - 10 km) 6 Giant Ice Floe (> 10 km) 7 Fast Ice 8 Fast Ice Ice of Land Origin 9 Undetermined or Unknown / (Iceberg, Growlers, Bergy Bits)

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Appendix 4

Greenland - Mandatory Ship Reporting Systems

The complete IMO circular on the GREENPOS/COASTAL CONTROL (IMO SN/Circ. 221 of 29 May 2002) may be found here:- http://www.imo.org/blast/blastDataHelper.asp?data_id=5395&filename=221.pdf and at https://www.dma.dk/SikkerhedTilSoes/Arktis/SejladsGroenland/Documents/4- Mandatory_Ship_Reporting_Systems_in_Greenland.pdf

Further details and the latest Notices to Mariners may be found at:- https://eng.navigation.gl/rescue-service/ or https://www.dma.dk/SikkerhedTilSoes/Arktis/SejladsGroenland/Sider/default.aspx

This site has a vast amount of useful information for navigating in Arctic waters. In order to be able to fulfil your obligations according to this mandatory ship reporting system, it is recommended that ship owners make sure, that the ships are equipped with adequate communication facilities when navigating north of latitude 76°N, for example a satellite telephone that has reliable coverage north of 76°N. In reality this means an Iridium phone.

There are two mandatory ship control systems in Greenland. One is the GREENPOS system monitored by JRCC GREENLAND. The second is the COASTAL CONTROL system monitored by the Greenland coast radio stations. As of December 1st. 2002 the systems became mandatory. The latest information is contained in Notice to Mariners A24 2018 and is reproduced below.

It should be noted that a vessel which fails to report on time, may be charged for the ensuing search and rescue operation!

The GREENPOS system applies to all ships on voyage to and from Greenlandic waters and inside the Greenlandic continental shelf or exclusive economic zone. The ships are to report their position, course, speed and actual weather information every 6th hour.

When joining the GREENPOS system, the ship must send a sailing plan (SP) with the following information:-

GREENPOS – SP A. SHIP NAME/CALL SIGN B. DATE AND TIME (e.g. 151632UTC) C. PRESENT POSITION E. COURSE F. SPEED I. DESTINATION AND ESTIMATED TIME OF ARRIVAL L. ROUTE S. ACTUAL WEATHER AND ICE INFORMATION X. PERSONS ONBOARD (POB XX)

After joining the system the ship must send a position report (PR) every 6th hour (at 0000, 0600, 1200, 1800 UTC). The PR includes the following information:-

GREENPOS – PR A. SHIP NAME/CALL SIGN B. DATE AND TIME C. PRESENT POSITION E. COURSE F. SPEED S. ACTUAL WEATHER AND ICE INFORMATION

When the ship leaves the reporting area (Greenland EEZ) or upon arrival at the Greenlandic destination the ship must send a final report (FR) including the following information:- 165

GREENPOS – FR A. SHIPS NAME/CALL SIGN B. DATE AND TIME GROUP C. PRESENT POSITION S. ACTUAL WEATHER AND ICE INFORMATIONS

If the ship changes destination or alters its route, the ship must send a deviation report (DR) including the following information:-

GREENPOS – DR A. SHIPS NAME/CALL SIGN B. DATE AND TIME C. PRESENT POSITION L. SHORT DESCRIPTION OF NEW ROUTE.

As the system is a part of the search and rescue assistance system it is important that the ship reports in accordance with the above. If the ship is more than 30 minutes overdue with its report, JRCC GREENLAND is obliged to investigate the ships missing report. If JRCC GREENLAND is unable to establish contact with the ship, they will initiate a search and rescue mission.

All reports are to be sent directly to JRCC GREENLAND or via Aasiaat radio MRCC Nuuk Inmarsat c: 433 116 710 E-mail:- [email protected] Phone:-+299 364 023 Fax:- +299 364 099

AASIAAT RADIO Via radio VHF, MF, HF MMSI:- 003313000 E-mail:- [email protected] Phone:-+299 130 000 and +299 893 126 Fax:- +299 892 777

------

The COASTAL CONTROL system applies to all ships greater than 20GRT on voyage to and from Greenland ports and places of call. (This is unlikely to apply to many yachts). The ships are to report their position, course, speed and persons onboard at least every 24th hour. When joining the system, the ship must send a sailing plan (SP) with the following information:-

TO: COASTAL CONTROL - SP A. SHIPS NAME AND CALL SIGN B. DATE AND TIME GROUP UTC (e.g. 151630Z) D. PRESENT POSITION OR PORT I. DESTINATION AND DATE AND TIME OF ARRIVAL L. ROUTE X. NUMBER OF PERSONS ON BOARD.

After joining the system, the ship must send position reports (PR) every 24th hour. The position report includes the following information:-

TO: COASTAL CONTROL - PR A. SHIPS NAME AND CALL SIGN B. DATE AND TIME GROUP UTC D. POSITION INDICATED AS GEOGRAFICAL NAME OR PLACE E. COURSE F. SPEED

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A deviation report must be sent if there are changes to information given in sailing plan (SP). A deviation report shall also be sent if the previous given time of arrival is overdue by more than one hour:-

TO: COASTAL CONTROL - DR A. SHIPS NAME AND CALL SIGN B. DATE AND TIME GROUP UTC C. POSITION INDICATED AS GEOGRAFICAL NAME OR PLACE L. INTENTIONS OR CAUSE OF DEVIATION

Final reports (FR) must be sent immediately upon arrival:-

TO: COASTAL CONTROL FR A. SHIPS NAME AND CALL SIGN B. DATE AND TIME GROUP UTC D. POSITION INDICATED AS GEOGRAFICAL NAME OR PLACE

As the system is part of the search and rescue assistance system it is important that the ship reports in accordance with the above. If the ship is more than 1 hour overdue with its report, the coastal radio station is obliged to report to the police. The police will decide whether to initiate a search and rescue mission. All reports in the coastal control system are to be sent directly to AASIAAT RADIO.

AASIAAT RADIO Via radio VHF, MF, HF MMSI:- 003313000 E-mail:- [email protected] Phone:-+299 130 000 and +299 893 126 Fax:- +299 892 777

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