VIKING - S ETTLEMENT TO 1100 HISTORY & A RCHAEOLOGY m

u The westward expansion of the and virtually total, and that no e s th u started late in the 8 integration took place. The M

y

e century and, apart from popula - attractiveness of Orkney as a n k r tion and other pressures, was base, due to position and O made possible by technology. natural resources, must have The development of large been overwhelming, and the ocean-going , com - Pictish people, leaders, church - bined with a knowledge of sea - men and ordinary people either manship and navigation, which fled or were slaughtered. could reliably transport people, livestock and goods for long dis - There was a short but violent tances, allowed them an ascen - period of Viking migration at dancy over other coastal the end of the 8 th century. Brough of - Norse church Europeans for several centuries. Orkney and were seized from the , followed them. If they were few and fled, Orkney made an obvious base much of the far north of they took their land without fight - It also seems that the Vikings for these seafaring people, in a and . Once ing. They did, in fact, exactly had mastered several other time when there was no quick power was established there fol - what we ourselves have done in important things such as (slight - land transport. While contact lowed a further influx of settlers later centuries, in India, America, ly) improved domestic hygiene may already have been going on such that Norse culture and lan - Africa, Australia. That is the only and midwifery, as well as being for some time before the main guage totally replaced Pictish. way in which we can settle a new good blacksmiths, joiners, farm - influx, it now seems that the land-chance your luck, but always ers, shipbuilders and seamen. Norse takeover was abrupt and Historia Norwegiae This is well bring your gun.” Clearly many were also good complete. The Picts simply dis - stated in Historia Norwegiae , men-at-arms, but this was prob - appear. Existing settlements written in the 11 th or 12 th centu - Most of our knowledge of the ably only one aspect of their Whalebone plaque from boat burial, Scar, Sanday were taken over by the Vikings , ry about the Picts that they “did Vikings comes from the , power. Above all they were VIKINGS For six hundred west coast of Scotland, the Isle who may even have reused some marvels in the morning and in the which describe the feuds of great years Orkney was dominated by of Man, and Pictish pots and other house - evening, in building towns, but at families and the deeds of great the Norse, initially invaders and . today hold items. Soon the invaders mid-day they entirely lost all their men, but do not give much then settlers from Western remain proud of their Norse imposed their own farming style strength, and lurked, through fear, detail of more mundane events , who rapidly colonised heritage and, though British, and land-holding patterns, in underground houses'” It goes or conditions. There was a cli - the islands and then went on to maintain their historic links which are preserved as farm on to say “But in due course…cer - matic improvement during the build the Earldom which at its with Norway. names and parishes to this day. tain pirates…set out with a great Viking era which greatly aided peak controlled much of the fleet…and stripped these races of westward expansion, the devel - Recent excavations have sug - their ancient settlements, destroyed opment of more advanced agri - Lower guard and tang of sword Scar boat burial , Sanday gested that there may have been them wholly, and subdued the culture and population growth. Linen smoother m

u a considerable Pictish popula - islands to themselves.” Man’s comb found at Scar boat burial , Sanday - dates to AD850-925 e s u m

tion in Orkney at the time of the u M e

s

y th th u e Viking migrations in the 8 cen - The early 20 century Orcadian n M k

r y

tury and there have been sugges - historian, Storer Clouston, had e O n k tions that the Norse colonisa - no illusions about what hap - r tion may have been peaceful. pened, “Surely the common-sense O However, there is scant evidence of the matter …is evident. The supporting this idea. first ....proposed to settle in these islands, whether the exist - Very few pre-Norse placenames ing inhabitants liked it or not. and other words have survived They brought their swords, and if suggesting that the Norse politi - the inhabitants were numerous cal takeover must have been fast and offered resistance, they fought

108 109 VIKING ORKNEY - S ETTLEMENT TO 1100 HISTORY & A RCHAEOLOGY

Harald Harfargi (Fairhair), who by burning him alive in his set out West over Sea to deal house in Norway. He then with the Orkney Vikings who carved the blood eagle on kept making raids on Norway. Halfdan’s back, “Einar had his During his time it was united as ribs cut from the spine with a one kingdom (in 892AD), and sword and the lungs pulled out the lands West over Sea of through the slits in his back. He Orkney, Shetland, the Hebrides dedicated the victim to as a and Man came under his rule. victory offering”

Earl Rognvald of More was Thorfinn Skull-Splitter , said to Norse boat-burial excavation at Westness, made , but he be buried in the Howe of Hoxa Howe of Hoxa, said to be burial place of Thorfinn “Skullsplitter” passed the title to his brother, on . He craftsmen and took great pride only a few possible Pictish rem - 's the same person. He was Sigurd, The Mighty, the first became sole Earl when his in their work as is evident by the nants. The Orkneyinga and son and successor, Thorfinn, brought up in the Scottish Earl of Orkney to be recorded brothers were killed at he Battle many high quality weapons, other Norse Sagas, mostly writ - presided over the period of max - Court by his grandfather, by history. Sigurd is best known of Stainmore in 954. He was items of jewellery and, perhaps ten in the 12 th century in Iceland, imum power and extension of Malcolm II, who granted him for his death rather than his life. said to be “a mighty chief and war - most important, the advanced give a vivid account of Viking the Orkney Earldom. Thorfinn the Earldom of Caithness and During one of his forays into like” , but it is not recorded how technology of their ships and times, with many colourful char - was a close relative of Macbeth Sutherland. Scotland, about AD893, he he came by his nickname. navigation skills. acters. and the Scottish author, incurred the wrath of a man Dorothy Dunnet, has even sug - His foster father, Thorkel Fostri, called Maelbrigte Tusk . A meet - was a power - Today nearly all our placenames According to the Saga the gested that they may have been played an important part in the ing was arranged where each ful Earl, known for his prowess derive from , with Earldom was founded by King was to bring 40 men and 40 in battle, his sorcery and his m u e

s horses. However Sigurd put ability to invoke the old gods. u M

two men on each horse, with the His mother was a sorceress and y e

n result that all the Scots were made him the enchanted Raven k r

O killed and beheaded. Banner, warning “my belief is this: that it will bring victory to the man The Vikings tied the heads to it's carried before, but death to the their saddles in triumph, but one who carries it” . Maelbrigte had the last laugh as one of his protruding buck teeth Sigurd was forcibly converted to scratched Sigurd’s leg, causing a Christianity by King Olav fatal infection. He is buried near Tryggvesson at Osmondwall Oykelbridge. (Kirk Hope) in in 995, on Equal-armed brooch from the Scar boat-burial pain of the death of his son. The Osmondwall, Longhope Lead weights from the Scar boat burial, Sanday Torf Einar Sigurd was succeed - whole of Orkney was said to Norse buildings on the

m ed by another colourful charac - have embraced the faith. The u e s

u ter, his half-brother Torf Einar, son, Hvelp, died soon after. M

y who “took the earldom, and was Sigurd renounced Christianity e n k

r long earl, and was a man of great and repudiated King Olaf. O power” . He was renowned for his eyesight despite being one- He was killed in 1014 at the eyed, and is said to have shown when he him - the people how to use peat as a self took up the , fuel. The Saga recounts how he after many had fallen carrying it, found and slew Halfdan “there was no man who would Fairhair on bear the raven-standard and the for killing his father, Rognvald, earl bore it himself, and fell there.”

110 111 VIKING ORKNEY - S ETTLEMENT TO 1100 HISTORY & A RCHAEOLOGY

Bishop’s Palace at Birsay .

The Norse Earls were always in as close touch with Scottish rulers as they were with their Norse superiors, frequently marrying the daughters of other noblemen, or of the Scottish or Norwegian King. Their divided loyalties frequently caused prob - lems, but also offered opportu - nities for political or financial gain. It was the power struggle between Norway and Scotland which eventually led to the end of the Earldom. Replica longship Sea Stallion in Bay Skaill Hoard penannular brooch Skaill Hoard penannular brooch power struggle to become sole nine Earldoms from his base in In the later 10 th century Norse Skaill. In all there were 136 or as the newest was made in Earl. His main opponent was Birsay where he presided over a power in the west was at its Silver Hoards Many hoards of more objects, including 10 Baghdad in AD945. Studies Rognvald Brusison who had the lavish household. He ruled his peak, with the conquest of valuables were hidden either by brooches, 27 arm rings and 13 have shown that the Skaill silver support of the Norwegian King. earldoms peacefully for another Normandy, the discovery of locals fearing Viking attack, or neck rings as well as coins, ingots was made around AD940 and Eventually after several spectac - 18 years. |He made a pilgrimage America by and by Vikings themselves for safe - and bits of silver, a total of over the hoard around ular battles, house burnings and to Rome in 1049-50, after Norse migrations to northern keeping. Some have since been 8kg. The Crown appropriated AD977. escapades, Rognvald was cor - which the first Bishop of and eastern . found, such as those at Skaill, the finds and both silver hoards nered on Papa at Yule Orkney, Bishop Thorolf, was Burray, Burgar and Caldale. now languish to this day in It seems that most of the 1046 and killed by Thorkel. appointed. Thorfinn estab - During this time the climate was The first two are the largest ever . brooches were made by the Thorfinn was said to control lished Christ Church and a considerably better than today, found in Scotland, while the lat - same craftsman, who may have which greatly facilitated long sea ter two became lost. The most spectacular are the 10 had an Irish training or back - voyages in open boats. As a penannular brooches which are ground. Many of the coins, hack result there was close communi - Skaill Hoard In March 1858 a decorated with Mammen -style sliver and ring money pieces cation between the orkney large cache of silver objects was ornamentation. The dates of probably originate in the Middle Earldom, Norway, Iceland and discovered in sand dunes near St the coins suggest that the hoard East no doubt in payment for the Norse possessions on the Peter’s Kirk above the Bay of was buried soon after AD950, goods or services rendered. west of Scotland and in . Skaill Hoard ring money and hack silver Part of the Burray Hoard Orkney Viking tradition was exemplified by Sweyn Asleifson, gold rings found in one of the leading characters in The of Burgar in Evie was the site of a hoard of silver, now lost the . After the crops were sown a spring cruise was made, while after harvest an autumn mission followed. Raiding, trading, piracy and fighting were ensued by a winter of eating and drinking. The 21 st century definition of a cruise and celebration is slightly differ - ent from that of our ancestors!

112 113 VIKING ORKNEY - S ETTLEMENT SITES HISTORY & A RCHAEOLOGY

the Mull Head. It has a chapel which dates from the 10 th cen - VIKING TIMELINE 1 tury. Outlines of up to 30 SETTLEMENT to 1100 buildings are visible. Several of these have been investigated by Cambridge University c.600 Development of sailing ocean going longships late 700s Norse settlement in Three Norse style houses have Orkney, Picts overwhelmed been excavated. They have 794 Viking attacks on islands drystone footings and had turf (Irish Annals) Major Viking attacks on upper walls. The finds suggest Britain 800 Norse presence well Norse house at Quoygrew, (Lower Trenaby), that they had fallen into dis - Norse settlement excavation on the Brough of use by the early 12 th century. established in Orkney VIKING SETTLEMENTS Quoygrew was a long mound Midden material into which 841 founded have until recently not been above the shore of Rackwick 849, 852 Large fleets of Viking the houses were built, dates extensively studied in Orkney. on Westray. A large mound ships attacking Britain from Pictish times. c.880 King of In recent year several excava - turned out to be a domestic Norway expedition to west tions have transformed this midden overlying structures Rognvald of More Earl Mound of Snusgar On the situation. Norse longhouses dating from the 9 th to the 17 th c.890 Rognvald s brother, Sigurd northeast side of the Bay of the Mighty, Earl of Orkney at Quoygrew on Westray, the century. Excavation revealed a Skaill there are a number on c983 Earl Sigurd dies Brough of Deerness and near complex series of buildings large mounds, the largest of Torf Einar, youngest son of the Bay of Skaill in Sandwick and a large number of arte - Rognvald of More earl which is the Mound of are currently being investigat - facts. The buildings on view 954 Earl Thorfinn Skullsplitter killed Snusgar. Recent excavations 937-954 Orkney used as base by ed. All date from about are 11 th or 12 th century. by Oxford University have King Erik Blood- 1000AD. Further informa - c.950 Skaill hoard buried revealed Viking Age walls and (found 1858) tion on each site is included in Brough of Deerness This Brooches were worn by Viking women to fasten their hangerock or an apron skirt. middens. The building fully c.991 Sigurd the Stout earl the relevant Gazetteer sec - Viking period settlement is on revealed in 2010 is about 26m benches along the side walls, Three stones with incised 986-989 Sigurd gains domination tions. top of a large stack south of which curve outwards in the scratches were found on the in the west marries daughter long. The oldest part has of Malcolm II of Scotland centre. internal walls but have so far Norse longhouse excavation at the Bay of Skaill 995 King Olav Tryggvesson e

i not been explained. converts Sigurd Kirk Hope r

w c.1000 Discovery of Vinland o The stone walls are up to 1m T (America) by Erik the Red d r in height with good quality EARLY NORSE SITES u Burray hoard buried found g i th S masonry especially on the TO VISIT 19 century interior sides. Most likely the 1014 Battle of Clontarf Kirkwall Old St Olaf’s Kirk upper sections were turf. Post Sigurd killed Birsay Brough of Birsay Thorfinn the Mighty earl holes for roof supports were The Palace area maximum power period found as well as several Sandwick Bay of Skaill c.1035 Caldale hoard hidden Evie (found 1774, now lost) hearths. Metalworking was Burgar Broch carried out in smaller hearths. by 1042 In control of west again Steatite fishing weights Deerness Dingeshowe 1046 Earl Rognvald Brusison Slag, charcoal and iron were Skaill area killed on Steatite bowl all found. Brough of Deerness Thorfinn sole earl S Ronaldsay Howe of Hoxa c.1065 Death of Thorfinn the Rousay Westness Mighty, Joint Earls Paul I The east end of the building monastery & Erlend II was the byre, with a central Westray Quoygrew 1066 King Tuquoy killed at Stamford Bridge paved drain. There are further buildings to the south of the 1098 King Magnus Barelegs Sanday Scar expedition to west, Pool byre. A large assemblage of Deaths of Paul & Erlend finds includes iron, steatite, Papa Stronsay Church S Ronaldsay Howe of Hoxa glass and pottery objects. Kirk Hope

114 115 NORSE ORKNEY - 1100 TO 1468 HISTORY & A RCHAEOLOGY

About 1152 a group of Vikings trated estates on behalf of the returning from the Crusades left king. More seriously Shetland a spectacular collection of runic was from now administered graffiti in , thus great - directly from Norway, while the ly adding to the interest of the Earl, Harald Maddadson had to monument for today’s visitor. In give an oath of fealty to King addition to , they carved a Sverre. Thus Orkney, and even dragon (claimed by some to be a more Shetland, became much lion, but most people think it is a more strongly under the control dragon) and other carvings of Norway. which have provided much inspiration to 20 th century The situation was further com - artists. plicated when the Scottish King, William the Lion, took advan - Viking Age ends With the tage of the situation by invading death of the Ultimate Viking , Caithness. The result was that Sweyn Asleifson , at Dublin on a the Earldom lost its Scottish St Magnus Kirk on dates from the 11 th century raid in 1171, the independent lands but had at the same time NORSE ORKNEY The 12 th , com - power of the Earldom of to submit to the King of Scots. century the martyrdom of menced in 1137 by Earl Orkney was coming to a close. On the death of Harald Earl Magnus , followed by a pil - Rognvald, in memory of his In 1193 a fleet manned by the Maddadson, himself three- grimage to the Holy Land by his martyred uncle Magnus, is Island Beardies, many of the quarters Scottish, in 1206, leading men from Orkney and Norse power was starting to cousin, Earl Haakon Paulson, much the most spectacular The “ Maeshowe Dragon ” was carved about 1152 by returning Crusaders the instigator of his death. On Norse structure in Orkney. Shetland, invaded Norway with wane . The first Scottish Earl, Norse power in the west of mish, now called by the Scots his return Haakon built the St There are many other remains, the support of the Earl. They albeit with strong Norse con - Scotland and the Hebrides. The the Battle of . The main Nicholas Round Church in such as parts of the Bishop’s were roundly defeated at the nections, was Magnus II, who fleet mustered at Elwick Bay in culprit was the arrival of a sud - , beside the Earl’s Bu Palace in Kirkwall, and the Battle of Florvag in 1194 near was appointed in c.1233. before heading out den severe gale during which the with its famous drinking hall. Norse secular buildings and by King Sverre into the Pentland Firth from St fleet was scattered and some ves - He was succeeded by his son church at the Brough of Birsay . Sigurdsson. In 1262 Margaret’s Hope bound for the sels damaged. Haakon retreated Paul in 1123, who in turn was Of the several other 12 th century Norway annexed Iceland and Clyde. It stopped at several to Orkney to regroup, but took succeeded in 1135 by Earl churches, the ruins at Westness The estates of those involved . Late in the next late places along the way including at ill and died in the Bishop’s Palace Rognvald Kolson , nephew of in Rousay and Eynhallow were confiscated by the summer, King Haakon Kyleakin on Skye, which is at Yule. He was temporarily Magnus during whose time Monastery are particularly Norwegian Crown, and a Royal Haakonson arrived in Orkney named after him. buried in St Magnus Cathedral Orkney continued to flourish. evocative. Sysselman appointed to collect with a large fleet of over 100 taxes and administer the seques - ships intent on reasserting before being returned to Bergen There was an indecisive skir - in 1264.

St Magnus cenotaph, Egilsay The Orphir Round Kirk was built by Earl Haakon about 1122 Crusader’s cross in Maeshowe Up Helly Aa Jarl’s Squad at Langskaill, , home of Sweyn Asleifson

118 119 NORSE ORKNEY - 1100 TO 1468 HISTORY & A RCHAEOLOGY

Henry was not only expected to LATE NORSE defend Orkney and Shetland TIMELINE 1100 to 1468 from attack, but was also expect - 1102 Bishop William installed ed to provide ships and men to c.1104 Earls Haakon & Magnus the Norwegian King on c.1105 Magnus marries Ingarth, a Scottish noble woman demand. Increasing Scots influ - 1116/1117 Martyrdom of Magnus ence and a steady influx of low - c.1120 Haakon to Rome & Jerusalem land Scots during the 15 th centu - c.1122 St Nicholas Round Church 1123 Death of Haakon, Earl Paul II ry gradually eroded the Orkney 1135 Earl Rognvald takes over and , 1137 St Magnus Cathedral started the last known official Norse c.1140 First document being dated 1425. 1151 Consecration of St Magnus 1150/51 Maeshowe runes carved Cubbie Roo’s Castle on Wyre Christmas tree lighting ceremony, the tree is donated annually by Hordaland c.1151/3 Rognvald at Crusades & Impignoration With the Rome By the Treaty become Queen of Scotland was takeover of Norway by 1158 Death of Rognvald, Harald of Perth in 1266 Norway a severe setback, compounded Denmark, the Norse interest in Maddadson sole Earl resigned all of the Hebrides and by the death soon after of the 1171 Death of Sweyn Asleifson the further 1192 Rognvald canonised the , but only on con - mother. Eventually the success reduced, particularly as the con - 1194 Battle of Florvag dition that Norway retained of Robert the Bruce and the nection had always been with 1195 Florvag settlement 1190s Orkney and Shetland. The marriage of his sister, Isabella, to Threats from Scottish crown Western Norway, rather than against Caithness agreement was that the Scots King Erik were to greatly settle with Denmark. When the 1206 Earl Harald, succeeded by sons would purchase the Hebrides relations for some time. daughter of the Danish King John & David Strong for 4,000 merks plus an annual was to marry the Scottish King c.1231 Murder of John last Norse Earl payment thereafter in perpetu - The Scottish Earls continued to 1232 Loss at sea of heads of some of in 1468, the had no com - Orkney’s leading families ity of 100 merks. This Annual of have very strong ties with punction about using Orkney, c.1233 First Scottish Earl Magnus II Norway was to be handed over Norway, but their twin loyalties which had been Norway’s clos - 1248 King of Isle of Man drowned at Sumburgh Röst with bride in St Magnus Cathedra . often caused them problems. est colony, as a guarantee for the A Tog is held every year in Kirkwall on Norwegian National Day(17 May) th 1256 Magnus III During the 14 century they dowry, which has never been Sadly so far only a small selec - particularly preserved in com - 1263 Annexation of Iceland and Norwegian-Scottish connec - gradually lost power and influ - paid. Thus ended ignominious - tion of the recently excavated mon usage. Many forms of Greenland by Norway tions were strengthened by the ence as the nation states of ly over 600 years of Norse rule artefacts are on display in the speech have carried over from 1263 Battle of Largs marriage of Alexander III’s Norway and Scotland grew. 1266 Treaty of Perth of the islands. Orkney Museum, but these do the Norn into English. The 1290 Margaret dies (Maid of daughter to King Erik of However, in about 1379 the include impressive finds from combined influence of mass Norway), daughter of King Erik Norway, but the accidental very colourful Henry Sinclair Norse sites Until recently rela - the Scar boat burial.. A increas - media, schools and incomers is 1292 King Erik remarries to death of the former and the sad became Earl and is reputed to Isabella sister of Robert the Bruce tively few excavations have been ing number of these sites are on fast eroding these usages. 1321 Angus line of Earls ends death of their daughter, the have held a remarkably affluent made at Viking sites in Orkney. display to visitors, especially c.1336 First Sinclair Earl Malise Maid of Norway, on her way to court at Kirkwall Castle . during the summer excavation 1349 Plague in Norway & Orkney LATE NORSE SITES 1379 Earl Henry Sinclair I the last Memorial to King Haakon in St Rognvald’s Chapel season. Much earlier work was The Earl’s Bu in Orphir , near the Round Kirk TO VISIT Viking Earl poorly recorded and has never 1398 Expedition to America ?? been reported on. Many arte - Kirkwall St Magnus 1400 Earl Henry II first Scottish Bishop’s Palace facts simply disappeared, or are nobleman Earl Firth 1425 Complaint of the People of of unknown provenance. Orphir Round Kirk & Bu Orkney against David Menzies Stenness Maeshowe 1420 Thomas Tulloch Bishop & Despite this lack of tangible evi - Sandwick Bay of Skaill Scottish commissioner runs Earldom Tingwall dence, the wealth of Old Norse 1425 Last Norse official document St Thomas’s Kirk 1433 Earliest Scottish charter language in the placenames and Rousay Westness 1434 Earl William Sinclair in the words still in current Wyre Cubbie Roo’s Castle 1461 Raid by Scottish & Irish on Egilsay St Magnus Church usage by Orcadians is a constant Orkney much damage Westray Quoygrew 1468 Impignoration reminder of our Norse heritage. Papay St Boniface Kirk 1470 James III buys earldom from Local bird and plant names are Gairsay Langskaill Earl William end of Norse Earldom

120 121 NORSE ORKNEY - C HURCHES HISTORY & A RCHAEOLOGY

are in turn built on top of much more ancient chapels. Other churches have been rebuilt, often several times, and contain the foundations or some of the walls of much more ancient structures.

In many cases churches have been rebuilt several times on the same site, so that little now remains of the Norse or earli - er buildings. However a Apse of Orphir Round Kirk Chapel on the Brough of Birsay remarkable number of churches remain substantially tombstone from here is now intact. To date only St in the Orkney Museum . Boniface on Papay has been renovated fully. Orphir St Nicholas Round Church was built by Earl Kirkwall St Magnus Hakon Paulson on his return Cathedral , is of course, much from Jerusalem about 1122, the most spectacular of all the probably next to his skali , or Orkney Norse churches. drinking hall, at the Bu in However to get a fuller picture Orphir . The apse is all that of Late Norse Orkney it is now remains of the only sur - really necessary to visit some viving round church from this The choir is the oldest part of St Magnus Cathedral of the earlier sites. St Olaf’s time in Scotland. Possible foundations of Christ Church under modern St Magnus Church Papa Names The Papa Whichever is true, the many was the first Viking church in the vicinity of the present St Deerness A tomb - names may attest to the pres - Pictish symbol stones and Kirkwall, and was probably Birsay was the main seat of Magnus Church and later stone dating from the 11 th or ence of Christian sites in ancient chapel sites suggest built by Earl Rognvald the Earldom and Bishopric, at Earl’s Palace. The discovery of 12 th century, which was found Orkney when the Norsemen that Christianity was well Brusison about 1035. All least during the time of very substantial red sandstone in the graveyard is now kept first arrived. Alternatively established here before the that remains today is an arch - Thorfinn the Mighty (999- foundations under this inside the Skaill Church This they may date from the 11 th or Viking takeover. way in St Olaf’s Wynd and an 1064). Much of the extensive church, as well as the “Mons is one of five so far discovered 12 th century, when pre-Norse aumbry in new St Olaf’s on ruins on the Brough of Birsay Bellus” stone are very sugges - in Orkney sites may have been reused. However the invading Norse Dundas Crescent A hogback probably date from this time. tive of this. had no respect for these insti - They include a charming little Aumbry from Old St Olaf’s Kirk tutions and probably took Watergate arch, Bishop’s Palace chapel and a complex of build - over their farms without pay - ings, some probably secular ing much heed to the Papae, and others ecclesiastic. their religious artefacts or spe - cial buildings. Around 995, The Bishop’s Palace and Church were most likely in Christianity did reassert itself, Hogback tombstone from Skaill, Deerness perhaps initially by force, but later by the will of the com - “Mons Bellus” stone from St Magnus Church, Birsay - now part of two lintels mon people.

There are several surviving Norse churches, in varying states of ruin. Some of these

122 123 NORSE ORKNEY - C HURCHES HISTORY & A RCHAEOLOGY

including a Pictish symbol Hruga, who lived at the Bu stone as a lintel. The latter is nearby and also built Cubbie on what may be the oldest Roo’s Castle . It has interesting chapel site in Orkney and has narrow slit windows. an enigmatic footprint stone inside. Eynhallow The 12 th century church on Eynhallow has Rousay St Mary’s Kirk at extensive surrounding build - Swandro dates from the 12 th ings. There was probably a century and, though much monastery here in Norse repaired, parts of the now times and the present ruins dilapidated structure are very may well overly an earlier, Pictish religious site. Later St Boniface Kirk on Papay was restored in the 1990s St Mary’s Chapel on Wyre may have been built by Kolbein Hruga the site was used as a farm. The Brough of Deerness , unusual sculpted sandstone old. It was the main church on the eponymous loch built consisted of a small chapel north of , has the door jambs and lintels and for the Westside until the 19 th Westray has evidence of con - on top of a broch. with several surrounding cells. ruins of a Norse chapel and may be on the site of a much century clearances. siderable Norse settlement. Papa Stronsay St Nicholas Stronsay There are several th several small houses. The earlier chapel dedicated to the There was a large cemetery in Chapel dates from the 11 and chapel sites on Stronsay , but th th chapel is built on top of an 7 century cleric known as the Egilsay St Magnus Kirk was the dunes at Pierowall . Lady 12 centuries. When excavat - only St Peter’s, in the grave - older structure, which may be Apostle of the Picts . built about 1136 on the site of Kirk, on the shore nearby, was ed and was shown to be built yard west of Whitehall still th th a Pictish chapel. A rampart an earlier chapel where rebuilt in the 1600s on top of on top of a small 7 or 8 cen - has substantial ruins visible. protects the entrance to this South Ronaldsay St Peter’s Magnus is reputed to have a 13 th century Norse church. tury Pictish monastery, which There was probably a church precipitous headland. and Old St Mary’s Churches prayed before his murder. Its The Cross Kirk, on the shore are both built on much older distinctive type of round near Tuquoy, has a largely EARLY CHRISTIAN Burray St Laurence Kirk has foundations, the former tower is the only one remain - intact apse and dates from the SITES TO VISIT ing in Orkney today, but in the 12 th century. Kirkwall Old St Olaf’s past churches at Deerness and St Magnus Cathedral Stenness had similar tall tow - Papay . St Boniface Church is Bishop’s Palace ers. Now roofless, this church originally 12 th century, but Orphir St Nicholas Round was formerly clad with large much altered over the years. Stenness Stenness Kirk St Michael's Kirk th flagstone slates. There is a 12 century hog - Birsay St Magnus back tombstone in the grave - Broch of Birsay Wyre St Mary’s Chapel is yard and two Pictish cross “Mons Bellus” stones th Holm St Mary’s also from the 12 century and slabs were also found here. St Andrew’s was probably built by Kolbein The small chapel of St Deerness Skaill - hogback Tredwells is on a small island Brough of Deerness The monastery on Eynhallow probably dates from Norse times or earlier St Magnus Kirk, Egilsay Burray St Laurence S Ronaldsay St Peter’s Kirk St Laurence Kirk, Burray St Mary’s Kirk, Burwick, South Ronaldsay Cross Kirk at Tuquoy, Westray was largely demolished in the 18 th century Old St Mary’s Kirk Hoy Osmondwall Rousay St Mary’s, Swandro Egilsay St Magnus Kirk Wyre St Mary’s Chapel Eynhallow Monastery Westray Cross Kirk, Tuquoy St Mary’s, Pierowall St Peter’s, Rapness Papay St Boniface St Tredwell’s Stronsay St Peter’s, Whitehall Kildinguie Papa Stronsay St Nicholas Shapinsay St Catherine’s, Linton

124 125 EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC MYTHS , L EGENDS AND REALITY

Herring and Cod as the wary of foreigners. southern part of the became overfished. By 1430 over 100 fishing Hanseatic merchants traded boats and at least 10 mer - from their bases in the Baltic chant ships were sailing to with ports including Bergen, Iceland every year from East Shetland and Orkney among Anglia and other east coast others. ports. Many of these ships put into Orkney for waters The main export from and stores before heading Orkney was considerable north. Many of the English quantities of grain which was fishing boats were wellboats, traded for Norwegian timber with holds open to the sea so and small boats. The main that they could deliver their trade was in Stockfish, Cod last catches fresh to their The Pizzigano chart is said to date from 1367 which has been salted and home ports. EXPLORATION The was bound to be current dried outside. This was in The vessels used were large Vikings roamed far and wide among Norse seafarers, and great demand in Europe due with substantial crews. They over the North Sea, Baltic, especially in Orkney with its to the Catholic demand to eat were well suited for carrying Mediterranean and acress the strong Norse connections. fish on Friday. It keeps well cargoes the 1,500 miles or so Part of the Portuguese Cantino map from 1502 North . They and is easy to transport com - between Iceland and south - cheaper to build and lighter accurate navigation, and sur - discovered Iceland in the 9 th After Iceland and Greenland pared to fresh fish. east England. However they th than built hulls. With veying. Longitude determina - century and by the 10 had were annexed by Norway in were slow and could not beat a displacement of up to 150 tion was to remain a serious th th settled in Greenland. Around 1262 trading interest in the Around the start of the 15 well into the wind. In the 15 tons, length of 20-20m and a problem until the develop - 1000AD they explored the latter fell away. Norse power century, English ships started century the Portuguese devel - beam of about 6m, these ships ment of accurate sea going east coast of North America at in the west was loosened fur - to arrive in Iceland to trade oped the , probably could manage with a crew of chronometers. least as far as . ther after the disastrous cam - and to fish. Although the first influenced by small Arab fish - 20 or less men, and were thus paign of 1263 and Treaty of recorded in Iceland was in ing boats called qaribs . well suited for long distance The Pizzigano chart dates They may have ventured as far Perth in 1266, but the Norse- 1412 they may have been ear - sea journeys. from 1424 and shows islands as Virginia. Despite failing to Scottish outlook of Orkney lier. The island suffered from The main innovation in the North Atlantic. These establish a settlement these was to last another 200 years. a plague epidemic in 1402- was the use of two or more The development of reliable include the Azores which exploits were well known in 1404, which killed about 60% masts. Triangular sails magnetic compasses, were first discovered in the Iceland and were recorded in Dutch and later, English start - of the population, which facilitated beating far closer to ephemeris tables and astro - 1340s. The Canaries and their Sagas. This knowledge ed to fish on a large scale for doubtless made the survivors the wind. The use of a com - labes allowed for much more Madeira had been known bination of multiple masts Replica “Aileach” in on its way to the Faeroes Caravel with square and lateen sails from the Pizzigano map with combinations of sails were developed by the Portuguese in the late 15 th century allowed faster and more con - trollable tacking, with far less risk of a miss stay. Downwind, square sails are most efficient.

Caravels were built for speed and agility rather than maxi - mum carrying capacity, and proved highly versatile. They were carvel built on frames, which allowed sawn planks to be used. The ships were

126 127 EXPLORATION OF THE NORTH ATLANTIC HENRY ST CLAIR AND THE ZENO NARRATIVE

Zeno Story In 1365 Henry St have gone to Greenland with the The Zeno Narrative describes a Clair and other knights assembled Orkney Bishop, during which landscape that could be Cape in Venice to go on a crusade to time he surveyed much of the Breton Island, where an ancient Egypt, during which Alexandria southern coast. On returning cannon was said to be discovered was occupied. He also went to with the Bishop from Gardar, he in 1849. This gun is like a 14 th Jerusalem and was called Henry died, but his brother stayed. century Venetian cannon now in the Holy on his return to Scotland. the Naval Museum at the He was left his father's estate at In the 1360s King Edward III of Arsenale in Venice. The implica - Rosslyn, near Edinburgh and in England sent geographer, tion is that it could only have been 1379 became Earl of Orkney. Nicholas of Lynne along with an made by Venetians, as no one else Thus Henry came into wealth, Oxford friar on several explorato - made guns like that. However its power and contact with Venice. ry trips to the northwest. One provenance is unsubstantiated. He also had the usual divided loy - result was a book Inventio alties to Norway, Orkney, Fortunatae , now lost, which clearly Henry, Antonio and some of his Scotland and England. stated that Greenland was inhab - men are said to have returned in ited, and later, perhaps a new map 1400, having repaired their ships He appears to have been well of the Atlantic, produced in and built a new one locally. The respected by Norse and Scots, and Parma in 1367 someone called Micmac Indians have a legend by 1390 had a small fleet of vessels Pizzigano. about Glooskap , who is said to at his disposal to look after his have sailed away home to the earldom. He is said to have had a At about this time trade between country of the east. The real decked longship for battle, two England and Iceland was increas - Henry, however, did not survive to Chart of the North Atlantic and Scandinavia by Olaus Magnus, 1539 open galleys perhaps like the ing, with much export of dried develop his putative fledgling Birlinn illustrated here, and up to fish and import of a wide range of colony as he was killed during an since at least the first century includes the Caribbean, a large and Hudson (1609). They 10 small decked barks which were goods. English trade with English raid on Orkney shortly BC by the Romans. Thee is part of Brazil, Florida, did not succeed in finding a small cargo ships well-suited for Greenland was also developing. after his claimed return. the indication of lands further Newfoundland, Labrador and sea route, but did discover a northern waters. This encouraged pirates, who not to the west. The north of Greenland. In 1497 the huge population of whales. only stole goods, but also traded in What is clear is that knowledge of Britain is included, but noth - English king, Henry VII, John Of course the Norse and the According to a largely discredited slaves, to operate in the area. the Atlantic and North America ing to the northwest. Cabot in search of the Inuit had known about them interpretation of papers belonging was far more widespread among Northwest Passage. for centuries already. to the Zeno family of Venice, a The story goes that some seamen in the 14 th century than By 1502 the Cantino World Venetian arrived in Orkney Greenland fishermen, fishing on has previously been realised by map was able to show the Others followed, including Whaling in the northwest with Nicolo Zeno. Later his the Grand Banks, were caught in a historians. Portuguese, Venetian, whole of Africa and Asia as far Martin Frobisher (1576), Atlantic commenced in the brother, Antonio, joined him. storm and driven far south., They Basque, Breton and English fish - as China and Korea. It also Humphrey Gilbert (1583) early 1500s, at first by the They could supply expertise that were captured by Indians, to ermen, traders and pirates were all Basques alone. By 1611 the Whaling was a dangerous occupation, not only for the whales Henry lacked, such as how to whom they taught the use of nets. interested in anything which English and Dutch were start - forge the new cannon for ship - Eventually one of the fishermen could make money. It is not sur - ing whaling around board use, as well as the latest nav - escaped and told his story. prising that they did not tell the Spitsbergen. In the early igational theories, instruments world much! 1700s intensive fishing and cartographic skills. The Acting on this and other informa - around Greenland was under - Zenos were a prominent family tion he set out on for an expedi - Whether or not the tale has any way, especially in the Davis involved in trading, including per - tion west in 1598, but received a truth in, it is quite clear that by the Straight. Orkney played a sig - haps piracy and slave trading. frosty reception from the 1390s fishermen did know about nificant part in this fishery as who refused to supply the Grand Banks and that the many whalers stopped at Henry is said to have made trips water and provisions. Ten days Orkney Earldom was quite capa - enroute to take on to Shetland and the Faeroes on after departure from Iceland land ble of mounting just such an water, stores and crew. behalf of the Norwegian crown to was reached, possibly Nova expedition. Whether Henry ever collect rent. In 1393 Nicolo may Scotia. did so is open to speculation.

128 129