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Black Sea Coast & the Kaçkar Mountains

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Black Sea Coast & the Kaçkar Mountains © Lonely Planet Publications 535 Black Sea Coast & the Kaçkar Mountains Admit it – you forgot Turkey has a northern coast. Fair enough, the might of the Med often overshadows the simpler pleasures of the less-popular Black Sea, and if it’s just sun, sea and sand you want, you couldn’t be blamed for heading south rather than trying to hit the all- too-brief swimming season here. Luckily, there’s far more to the Karadeniz (Black Sea) than a tourist industry, and discerning travellers can explore a wealth of sights without a sniff of the crowds that plague the real resort regions. Of course, the defining feature of this coast is still the sea, but Black Sea dwellers enjoy it in an altogether civilised manner, seeking out the best spots to dig into a catch-fresh fish dinner or sup a cup of local tea amid the crumbing remnants of a past every bit as colourful as central Anatolia’s. Fragments of castles and fortifications litter the coastline – legacies of the kings of Pontus, or the Genoese, or the Ottomans, or whoever got hold of them last. Recent history, too, has marked the region, which acted willingly as the flashpoint for Atatürk’s republican revolution. At the far eastern end of the coast, just before you have to turn round or dive into Georgia, lies the Black Sea’s other trump card, the scenic Kaçkar Mountains. The trekking season’s even shorter than the beach period, but you still have a four-month window around sum- mer to explore isolated mountain villages, field-test hearty mountain food and experience some fading mountain cultures. And trust us, once you’ve done all that, there’s no risk you’ll forget Turkey’s north coast again. HIGHLIGHTS Admire Byzantine frescoes in an impossible cliff-face setting at the Sumela Monastery ( p554 ) Trek the peaks to sample local dishes and village hospitality in the Kaçkar Mountains ( p558 ) Kaçkar Mountains; Sinop Çamlîhemšin Road-test the first wave of mountain Amasra BLACK SEA COAST & THE eco-tourism in Çamlıhemşin ( p560) Trabzon KAÇKAR MOUNTAINS Sumela Monastery Twist and turn scenically on the long and winding coast road between attractive Amasra and seductive Sinop ( p539 ) Hustle, bustle, taste, test, shop, drop and sightsee in busy-busy Trabzon ( p548 ) 536 BLACK SEA COAST & THE KAÇKAR MOUNTAINS •• Amasra lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com BLACK SEA COAST & THE KAÇKAR MOUNTAINS •• Amasra 537 0 100 km BLACK SEA COAST & THE KAÇKAR MOUNTAINS 0 60 miles when this small commercial port was known as Sesamos Amastris. Most of the area inside the citadel is now residential; most of the original walls survive BLACK SEA and there are a few old relics such as the 15th- (KARADENÎZ) century Eski Chapel (Old Chapel), now a cultural centre. Make your way to the northeastern outcrop to sip tea and soak up sunset views of Doÿanyurt Abana Çatalzeytin a noisy seagull colony on an offshore islet. Cide Ayancîk Sinop Kurucašile Özlüce Înebolu The Amasra Museum (Amasra Müzesi; %315 1006; Amasra Erfelek Gerze Azdavay Bafra Burnu Dereoğlu Sokak 4; admission €1.10; h9am-5.30pm Tue- Bartîn Seydiler Pînarbašî Bafra Sun), overlooking Küçük Liman, contains a Încir Burnu Boyabat Hopa standard collection of Roman, Byzantine and Daday Arhavi KASTAMONU Safranbolu SAMSUN Findiki Hellenistic odds and ends, including some Îÿdir Çaltî Burnu Pazar Altînkaya Terme Ilgaz Daÿî Kargî Barajî Çamlîhemšin impressive statues from the 2nd century. KARABÜK Çaršamba Bešikdüzü Rize Šenyuva Milli Parkî Kavak Fatsa Peršembe TRABZON Tosya Ünye Tirebolu Yomra Yusufeli Amasra’s magnificent location is best ad- Ilgaz Ordu Ayder Eskipazar E80 Ayvacîk Bolaman Giresun Of Mt Kuršunlu Merzifon Çat Kaçkar mired from the sea. In season, several op- Osmancîk Destek Espiye Maçka Ulubey Uzunisa To Erzurum Çaykara (3937m) Çerkeš To Ankara (180km) E97 Çamlîkaya erators in Büyük Liman offer boat trips in the Atkaracala To Amasya Tašova Sumela (115km) (5km) Akkuš Gölköy Kürtün Monastery Uzungöl harbour and along the coastline. Expect to pay about €3 for a short tour (45 minutes) and €15 History Allied occupation authorities, Turkish inhabit- Genoese as a trading station from 1270 until for a longer tour (six hours). The coast was colonised in the 8th century ants were persecuted by ethnic Greek guerrilla 1460, when Mehmet the Conqueror walked in BC by Milesians and Arcadians, who founded bands who had been allowed to keep their without a fight. Under Ottoman rule, Amasra Sleeping towns at Sinop, Samsun and Trabzon. Later arms. In these circumstances, the Turks proved lost its commercial importance to other Black Rates in Amasra can rise by 10% to 40% on it became the Kingdom of Pontus. The most very responsive to calls for revolution. Using Sea ports, and today it’s simply a perfect spot busy summer weekends; prices quoted here famous Pontic king, Mithridates VI Eupator, a bureaucratic ruse, Mustafa Kemal ( Atatürk) to relax and enjoy some summer waterlife. are for midweek. If you’re planning to visit waged a war against the Romans in 88 to 84 escaped the sultan’s control in İstanbul and out of season, be warned that many places BC and conquered Cappadocia and other landed at Samsun on 19 May 1919. He soon Orientation close at the end of October and don’t open Anatolian kingdoms, but was later forced to moved inland to Amasya and began to organ- As you come into Amasra, you’ll pass the mu- again until May at the earliest. agree a peace based on pre-war borders. ise Turkey’s battle for independence. seum in an old stone building on the left, and Amasra is also a good spot for ev pansiyons From 74 to 64 BC he was at it again, this a couple of pensions. Most of the buses stop at (pensions in private homes), which are worth- time encouraging his son-in-law, Tigranes Climate an intersection right by the PTT. Follow the while options for budget travellers. You’ll find I of Armenia, to grab Cappadocia from the The Black Sea coast receives the heaviest sign to ‘Şehir Merkezi’ (north) for the Küçük some along the seafront and a handful within Romans. The Roman response was to conquer rainfall in Turkey. The damp climate of this Liman (Small Harbour) with restaurants, pen- the castle walls; look out for the signposts or Pontus, whereupon Mithridates was forced to long stretch of land is characterised by warm, sions and the belediye (town hall), or walk ‘Pansiyon’ notices in individual windows. flee; he later committed suicide. The Romans showery summers and mild, rainy and foggy straight (east) until you hit the sandy strip of Kale Pansiyon (%315 1251; Topyanı Sokak; d €17) A left a small kingdom of Pontus at the far winters with moderate temperatures. Spring the Büyük Liman (Large Harbour). good home pension in the citadel area, deniz eastern end of the coast, based in Trebizond and autumn bring generally changeable con- The entrance to the citadel lurks amid the manzaralı (with sea view) and boasting a (Trabzon). ditions. In the Kaçkars winters are long, harsh souvenir shops in the Küçük Liman. shady terrace. Plain rooms come with poky The coast was subsequently ruled by Byzan- and snowy. Be prepared for unpredictable private bathrooms. tium, and Alexius Comnenus, son of Emperor weather because of the altitude. Information Balkaya Pansiyon (%315 1434; İskele Caddesi 35; s/d Manuel I, proclaimed himself emperor of Amasra Turizm (%315 1978; www.amasraturizm.com; €10/20) The cheapest formal pension in town, Pontus when the crusaders sacked Constan- AMASRA Cumhuriyet Caddesi 13) Hotel bookings, car hire and local offering small, basic rooms on a side street tinople and drove him out in AD 1204. His %0378 / pop 6400 tourist services. between the harbours. descendants ruled this small empire until Coming from the west, Amasra is the first Café S (Özdemirhan Sokak; per hr €0.75; h9am- Kuşna Pansiyon (%315 1033; Kurşuna Sokak 36; d €24) 1461, when it was captured by the Ottomans town of any real note along the Black Sea midnight) Internet access and phone services. Run by the same people as the Karadeniz Aile BLACK SEA COAST & THE under Mehmet the Conqueror. coast, and has a good claim to be one of the Tourist information (%315 1219; Atatürk Kültür Pide Salonu (see p538 ), this castle option is KAÇKAR MOUNTAINS While Alexius remained in Trabzon, Sam- prettiest, squeezed neatly between two har- Parkı; h11am-7pm) Erratic opening hours, no English that bit nicer than your average ev pansiyonu, sun was under Seljuk rule and the Genoese bours and a sandy beach and overlooked by spoken. with six bright, colourful rooms surrounded had trading privileges. But when the Otto- a thick-walled citadel. It’s a popular tourist by a verdant garden. Breakfast not included. mans came, the Genoese burned Samsun to centre for this region, but has still been spared Sights & Activities Şahil Otel (%315 2211; Turgut Işık Caddesi 82; s/d the ground and sailed away. the kind of overdevelopment it might have North of the two harbours, three massive €17/34) Opposite the local sailing club on the After WWI the Ottoman Greek citizens of suffered were it on the Aegean. gateways lead to the kale ( citadel), Amas- Büyük Liman, this is a small but smart mod- this region attempted to form a new Pontic The Byzantines held Amasra as part of the ra’s most striking feature. It encompasses ern option with sea-facing balconies offering KAÇKAR MOUNTAINS KAÇKAR MOUNTAINS state with Allied support. Disarmed by the Pontic kingdom, but rented the port to the the promontory fortified by the Byzantines some perfect beach views.
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