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Sunday Times Travel 47 TOTAL GUIDE JAPAN JAPAN The ToTal guide From geishas to sushi, cherry trees to Mount Fuji – 25 pages of ‘only in Japan’ moments Answered! Your top 31 questions about Japan. Among them… Where do I start? (Page 48) With these easy city-and-scenery itineraries How are the loos? (Page 54) Bafing, but clinically clean Can you bathe with monkeys? (Page 58) Yes Is it pricey? (Page 60) Not any more Can I meet a geisha? (Page 63) Yes, with our insider tips Will I be sleeping on the foor? (Page 70) Depends how you get when you drink sake (Page 64) GETTY : h P a R og T ho P 54 October 2013 Sunday Times Travel 47 TOTAL GUIDE JAPAN Mind-boggling moments are endless in Where do I start… 2 …with a spa on the side? 3 …for a full-on Citybreak? 4 …for zany mixed with Zen? Japan. What’s that control panel by the loo Tokyo – Kyoto – Hakone Tokyo – Kyoto – Osaka Tokyo – Kyoto – Mount Koya why 1 …for a flying first visit? A visit to an onsen hot-springs resort (see After you’ve spent several days in Tokyo Zen up in the temples scattered among the for (page 54)? Why do cherries cost more Tokyo – Kyoto page 58) is a very special experience in Japan, and Kyoto, take the train (only 30 minutes eight peaks of Mount Koya, two-and-a-half If you have time for only a few days in Japan, and breaks up a hectic Tokyo-Kyoto itinerary from Kyoto) to Japan’s third-largest city, hours by train from Kyoto. Of the 120 here, you visit than vintage Champagne (page 67)? And spend them in the current and former capitals. beautifully. For real relaxation – and a few walks Osaka, the country’s capital of hedonism. might start at Kongobu-ji, a Shingon Buddhist Japan? those moments are unforgettable, too Touch down among the neon blaze of Tokyo, and boat trips on the lakes – you’ll want three You’ll need two or three nights to do it religious retreat founded 1,200 years ago on the country’s largest city, where rumbling nights in Hakone, but you’ll get a taste with even justice, especially if you want to absorb its a slope amid thick cedars; then sleep at one – you’ll always remember first seeing a expressways weave between concrete a one-night detour. In 90 minutes on the train raucous street life, delicious (and cheap) of the 50 temples that allow overnight guests. high-rises, and streets are chaotic with cars, from Tokyo, you can be in Fuji-Hakone-Izu cuisine and affordable-yet-quirky fashions You’ll pray, meditate, practise arts such as kimono-clad geisha (page 63), eating a multi-course kaiseki meal commuters and multi-storey shops. Spend at National Park, an area home to majestic Mount (see page 53). Between meals (Osaka is calligraphy with the monks, and eat blissful least two nights here – for the museums, sumo- Fuji, the symbol of the nation. Admire its snow- famed for its food), get a city overview vegetarian Buddhist-monk cuisine, known (page 51) or belting out karaoke in a booth, Lost in Translation- wrestling, department stores, fish market and dusted profile from the cable cars, ropeways from the 112m-high Tempozan ferris as shojin ryori. Temple-hop for a few days, style (page 71). But for all the big hitters, it’s the unexpected nightlife. Then glide off to the hushed grandeur and funicular railways that wind through the wheel (senyo.co.jp/tempozan/index.html; perhaps stopping in the intricately decorated of Kyoto, just over two hours away by bullet park, then soak away vestiges of Tokyo-mania £4.60), situated by the harbour. Take in the temple of Kongosanmai, followed by the huge that truly astounds: the curious island revamped as a living work train, for its (1,600) temples, geisha girls, with a dip in an onsen. The first was built here main sights (see page 66), then shop for Okunoin Cemetery, which has 200,000 stone teahouses, gardens and shrines. Aim to spend in 1590 for battle-weary soldiers, and now 12 bargain souvenirs at Japan’s largest outlet stupas and a hall of lanterns where thousands of art (page 72), say, or the vending machine dispensing ‘marital at least three nights, preferably in a traditional bubbling hot springs serve hundreds of public mall, the ATC (atc-mare.com). Wendy Wu of oil lamps burn permanently. JTB (020 8237 ryokan or minshuku (see page 70). Abercrombie baths scattered in the mountains. Inside Japan Tours (0844 288 5396, wendywutours.co.uk) 1605, japanspecialist.co.uk) has a nine-night aids’ (page 70). From the slopes of Mount Fuji (page 68) to the & Kent (0845 485 1142, abercrombiekent.co.uk) (0117 370 9751, insidejapantours.com) has a has an eight-night trip, spending three in guided tour visiting Kyoto, Mount Koya, Tokyo, beaches of Okinawa (page 62), one thing’s for sure: Japan is has an eight-night Tokyo and Kyoto trip from nine-night trip to Tokyo, Hakone and Kyoto Tokyo (B&B), three in Kyoto (B&B), and two Nikko, Mount Fuji and Hakone, from £2,255pp, £2,895pp, B&B, including two nights at a ryokan from £1,990pp, B&B, with flights from in Osaka (room only), from £2,690pp, room only, including flights from Heathrow, like no place you’ve ever been to before. in Kyoto (half board) and flights. Heathrow to Tokyo and transfers. including flights from Heathrow to Tokyo. transfers, and some meals.> 48 Sunday Times Travel October 2013 October 2013 Sunday Times Travel 49 TOTAL GUIDE JAPAN Rice and easy: ordering sushi is simple (it’s the multi-course kaiseki meals that need to are complicated…) know!! 6 Is there anything to eat besides sushi? 5 How am I going ot a fan of uncooked fish? You’re Expect rice, fluffy Japanese omelette strips, to get by in in luck. Japanese cuisine is hugely grilled tofu or fish, pickled veg and other Japanese? varied, from the famous ramen accompaniments, from crispy seaweed True, few people (noodle soup) to kaiseki (elaborate, to slimy natto, a soybean concoction not speak English here, Nmulti-course Japanese haute cuisine). Seafood dissimilar to mucus. In Tokyo, the one especially outside is popular, but it’s usually cooked, and you’ll unmissable breakfast is sushi at Tsukiji fish Tokyo. But if you look also find pork (tonkatsu – fried cutlets), chicken market (go between 5.25am and 6.15am lost or confused, (yakitori – grilled skewers) and beef (Wagyu for the tuna auction), best taken on someone will come to – massaged cattle). And don’t rule out tofu a stool at Daiwa (5-2-1 Tsukiji). your aid, and a simple – even die-hard haters tend to like it in Japan, ‘sumimasen’ (excuse where it’s made fresh and served grilled, fried, Midday munchies: The Japanese eat ramen me) while pointing smothered in sauce, chilled and more. day and night, but this gut-busting bowl of at a map is enough noodle soup comes into its own at lunch. to get directions (and The raw truth: ‘Sushi’ actually refers to the Fukuoka is home to one of the most famous plenty of enthusiastic rice, seasoned with rice vinegar, sugar and salt, types of ramen in Japan, hakata, a pork broth, gesturing). There not raw fish. Sushi has any number of toppings: and here you’ll find the original restaurant of are also some good veg, raw or cooked fish and seafood. Sashimi – the well-known Ichiran ramen chain (2-2-10 translation apps. raw fish served in thin slices – is justly famous. Nanokawa Minami-ku; 00 81 92 523 8606, Try iTunes’ Learn ichiran.co.jp/english; mains around £7). Each Japanese (free) or The meal deal: You’ve just arrived in Japan, diner sits in their own booth and fills in a form, Image it (69p), which and you have no idea where to start – enter the specifying everything from the tenderness of uses line drawings izakayas, Japanese gastropubs. These are the the noodles to the amount of spice. At most to help get your everyday joints for drinking, snacking and ramen restaurants, however, you buy a ticket message across. socialising, and unlike most restaurants, which from a vending machine by the door and hand Tokyo’s subway is often specialise in one type of cuisine, izakayas it to the chef once you sit at the counter. If in a doddle. It’s colour- offer a wide choice of options, from sushi to doubt, go for the top left button – it’s usually coded, and station tempura (lightly battered vegetables or the restaurant’s best-seller. names appear in seafood). If you’re brave, sample the more Western script. It also challenging Japanese drinking snacks – Make a meal of it: In Kyoto, a kaiseki meal at a identifies the line fermented squid entrails, for instance. ryotei (a trad high-class restaurant) isn’t cheap, by a letter, but worth the splurge. As you sit on tatami while each Mind your elbows: The Japanese eat early, mats in a private rice-paper-walled room, you’ll station has with lunch at noon and dinner from 6pm. When be served by a kimono-clad waitress, who will a number. dining with a companion, always refill their bring dish after dish of seasonal delicacies. Many glass, but never your own. The main chopstick Try Shiokoji Rakusui (00 81 75 344 8888, places to no-nos are leaving them sticking up out of your granviakyoto.com; nine-course kaiseki from eat display rice, and using them to pass food to someone £66).
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