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C A R I B B E A N On-line C MPASS DECEMBER 2015 NO. 243 The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore

WELCOME TO THE CARIBBEAN:

TALL SMALL SHIPS ALL SHIPS! JEAN JARREAU PHOTOGRAPHY DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 2 INGA BEITZ

Happy Holidays The Caribbean’s Monthly Look at Sea & Shore to all from the entire www.caribbeancompass.com Compass Crew! DECEMBER 2015 • NUMBER 243 IMRAY IOLAIRE Six Months Out Launching a life ...... 31 LINDA LANE THORNTON DEPARTMENTS Info & Updates ...... 4 Meridian Passage ...... 42 Business Briefs ...... 8 The Caribbean Sky ...... 44 Eco-News ...... 12 Book Review ...... 46 Regatta News...... 14 Look Out For… ...... 47 East Side Story Y2A ...... 18 Calendar of Events ...... 48 Martinique’s other coast ...... 21 Destinations ...... 21 Caribbean Market Place .....49 All Ashore… ...... 34 Classified Ads ...... 53 Panama Pleasures Island Poets ...... 36 Advertisers’ Index ...... 54

The canal and the city ...... 11 DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 3

PARANG ASSOCIATION OF T&T Caribbean Compass is published monthly by Compass Publishing Ltd., P.O. Box 175 BQ, Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. Tel: (784) 457-3409, Fax: (784) 457-3410, [email protected], www.caribbeancompass.com Editor...... Sally Erdle Art, Design & Production...... Wilfred Dederer [email protected] [email protected] Assistant Editor...... Elaine Ollivierre Administration...... Shellese Craigg [email protected] [email protected] Advertising & Distribution...... Tom Hopman [email protected]

Caribbean Compass welcomes submissions of articles, news items, photos and drawings. See Writers’ Guidelines at www.caribbeancompass.com. Send submissions to [email protected]. We support free speech! But the content of advertisements, columns, articles and letters to the editor are the sole responsibility of the advertiser, writer or correspondent, and Compass Publishing Ltd. accepts no responsibility for any statements made therein. Letters and submissions may be edited for length and clarity. Holiday Events Buying Local ©2015 Compass Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved. No reproduction, copy or transmission of this publication, except short excerpts for review purposes, may be made without written permission of Compass Publishing Ltd. Special fun this month! ...... 28 Adorn yourself with seeds .....38 ISSN 1605 - 1998

On the cover, Jean Jarreau’s dramatic shot of the sail training vessel Danmark charging through the Anguilla Channel. See sail training news on page 4

Compass covers the Caribbean! From Cuba to Trinidad, from Panama to Barbuda, we’ve got the news and views that sailors can use. We’re the Caribbean’s monthly look at sea and shore. ‘When Caribbean Compass first appeared in March 1995, it was a long overdue breath of textual and pictorial fresh air. Objective, informative, well written, covering an incredibly wide range of topics, fun to read and appealing to folks of all ages and from all walks of life, not just sailors. ‘Over the past 20 years, it has not simply maintained its standards but has developed and improved to the point where it is today one of the most widely respected marine publications anywhere in the Caribbean.’ — Narendra “Seth” Sethia Barefoot Charters St. Vincent

Santa Marta

Cartagena

Click Google Map link below to fi nd the Caribbean Compass near you! http://bit.ly/1fMC2Oy DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 4 to youngsters(ages1621years)onboardtwoofitsmembervessels. sters intheCaribbean.CSTalsooffersone-weekandten-daysailtrainingvoyages Tall ShipsandsailtrainingvesselswillarriveagainsoonintheCaribbean. The non-profitassociationCaribbeanSailTraining(CST)hasannouncedthatseveral &Updates Info Maritime ExperienceDaytripsforschoolsareofferedbyCSTfreeofcoststoyoung- The TallShipsarecoming—andCaribbeanyouthcangosailingonthemagain. The TallShipsAreComing! Kaya AtomZ IBS b/v Bonaire Jolly Harbour Star Marine Antigua &Barbuda durable andtechnologicallyadvancedsailspossible. Built bysailmakersdedicatedtobuildingthefinest, most FOR 5YEARSOR50,000MILES OUR OCEANPLUSSAILSAREGUARANTEED Roseau Center Dominica Marine Dominica Kapiteinsweg #4 Zeilmakerij Harms Curacao topsail Tall Shipssuchasthethree-masted Through CST,Caribbeanyouthscansailon Kingston PJG Jamaica True BlueStGeorge Turbulence Sails Grenada Oosterschelde Panama City Regency Marine Panama 30 BldAllegre Voilerie DuMarin Martinique

ner Martin areselected,theywillbeprovidedwithfreeairlinetickets. before Christmasforaten-dayVirginIslandstour.IfyoungsterswhohavetoflySt. 40-metre (120-foot) the headofharbour. and soundexplodeover night, rightoncue,light Then, onthestrokeofmid- abuzz withexpectation. cussed andtheislandis vantage pointsaredis- bookings thickandfast, front restaurantstake every description,water- hundreds ofboats in theGrenadinesfillswith harbour ofAdmiraltyBay approaches, thepopular the NewYear. Admiralty Baytoseein fireworks displayin to boastaspectacular donors, Bequiacontinues private andbusiness CaribbeanSailTraining.com CaribbeanSailTraining.com andontheirFacebookpage. trainees aresometimesacceptedonboardsomeofthesailtrainingvessels. minimum ageof15andbenotolderthan25yearsonmosttheships,but pate inasailingadventureonboardoneoftheships.Applicantsneedtohave youngsters andparents,arealsoencouragedtocontacttheassociationpartici- interested inplacingastudentononeofthevesselsastrainee.Privatepersons, training trips.CSTacceptsrequestsfromschools,yachtclubsandinstitutionsthatare Tall Ships,square-riggers,largeyachtsandevenraceboatstotakeyoungstersonsail astrainees.CSTselectscooperatingandmembersailtrainingvesselsincluding and otherorganizationstoprovideyoungsterswithsponsorshipboardships ly thoselivingintheCaribbean.CSTreceivesfundsfrombusinesses,privatepersons young peopleofallnationalities,cultures,religionsandsocialbackgrounds,especial- European Community.Itaimstohelpinprovidingeducationandsailtrainingfor who liveonanotherislandwillreceivefreeairlineticketstoMartiniqueandback. —Continuedonnextpage Rodney Bay Rodney BaySails St Lucia Fajardo, PuertoRico Atlantic Canvas&Sail Puerto Rico The othertripisonboardthe50-metre(150-foot)overallthree-mastedtopsailschoo- As ofthiswriting,inDecemberthereisstillspacefortwoyoungstersonboardthe As OldYear’sNight The BangGangreports:Thankstotheconsistentgenerosityofawiderange New Year’sEveFireworksinBequia To learnmoreaboutCSTvisitwww.CaribbeanSailTraining.org Youngsters interestedinsailingontheCSTmembervesselscane-mailatinfo@ Sail trainingembarkationpossibilitieswillbeannouncedontheCSTwebsitewww. Caribbean SailTrainingisanon-profitorganizationregisteredinSt.Martinandthe Oosterschelde [email protected] Tel: (284)4942569 Road Town,Tortola Road ReefMarina Doyle SailmakersBVI,Ltd British VirginIslands , out of Martinique from February 15th through 23rd, 2016. Youngsters , outofMartiniquefromFebruary15ththrough23rd,2016.Youngsters Eye oftheWind Chaguramas AMD Trinidad &Tobago Blue Lagoon Barefoot YachtCharters St. Vincent

WILFRED DEDERER , whichwillsetsailoutofMarigot,St.Martinjust [email protected] Tel: (246)4234600 St Philip Six Crossroads Doyle OffshoreSails,Ltd Barbados Christiansted Wilsons' CruzanCanvas USVI StCroix DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 5

2016 —Continued on next page round barbados race series Arturo Tappin will be one of the headliners in Bequia When and where? In the BVIs the place to party will be Mayette’s on January 30th, to party will be Mayette’s on In the BVIs the place When and where? full itinerary. for the and www.cruisingoutpost.com Visit www.tradewindsradio.com 2016 Gay Music Fest in January Bequia Mount for all musical tastes, consistently with broad-based appeal Top quality acts and in St. Maarten we will gather at the Buccaneer on February 6th. No register- Buccaneer Bar on February we will gather at the and in St. Maarten are free! ing, and the parties from sponsors and outstanding support and presentation, excellent organization 13th anniversa- event proudly reaching its Bequia’s unique musical have all led to Mount ry. The Bequia Gay Music Fest 2016 will take place January 21st through 24th. Built around the hugely popular annual one-night- only Bequia performance of Basil Charles’ Mustique Blues Festival, showcasing the London Blues Band with stellar guest artistes, the Bequia Tourism Association’s Bequia Music Fest has been earn- ing rave reviews over the last 12 years. The event, always held over four days towards the end of January, is well established as a major fixture on the sea- son’s calendar. A loyal following of music lovers who delight in the infor- mal, up-close-and-per- sonal atmosphere and the range of music always on offer have ensured that the Bequia Mount Gay Music Fest's reputation grows with every successful year. Yachtsmen put it on their itineraries, visitors book their holidays to catch it, January to come around. and residents of Bequia and St. Vincent can’t wait for on the beach at Lower The main venue for Bequia Music Fest is at De Reef, right nights and all afternoon Bay, with performances there on the Friday and Saturday on Sunday. Mount Gay Rum Round Barbados Race www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com January 16th - 24th 2016 New Year’s Eve Fireworks in Union Island New Year’s Eve reports: Union Island, also Heather Grant in St. Vincent & the Grenadines, is anoth- in St. Vincent to be this New Year’s Eve. er great place display, Don’t miss the fabulous fireworks from starting at midnight and visible Party Clifton town and Clifton Harbour. join the all evening in Clifton and then road, danc- throngs of partygoers in the grooving ing to the music, singing, and from your to the ambiance. Or watch be truly magi- yacht in the harbour. It will cal. magazine, Islands Television and Tradewinds Radio, will be magazine, Islands Television and Tradewinds Radio, will Cruising Outpost The 80th Anniversary Mount Gay Round Barbados Race Series The 80th Anniversary Mount Gay Round Barbados Three spectacular days of coastal course racing The Mount Gay Round Barbados Race The Ocean Passage Race to Antigua Join us for Barbados’ ultimate challenge Old Win your skipper’s weight in Mount Gay Rum Extra Continued from previous page Continued from Now we’re going to see if we can top last year’s events! Cruisers’ Parties, spon- Now we’re going to see if we can top last year’s events! January and February Cruisers’ Parties January and February Cruisers’ two of the best Cruisers’ Parties we can recall were Bob Bitchin reports: Last year Flares up from yachts and packed crowds line the waterfront to watch the line the waterfront to yachts and packed crowds Flares fly up from by Erika’s Marine Services, Anchorage Yacht The fireworks display is sponsored We know not everyone can sail here. But those who can will, and those who can’t We know not everyone can sail here. But those who can sored by held one week apart. The first was in the BVIs, and the second a week later held one week apart. The first in St. Maarten. unique display. Each year seems better than the last and this year will surely be the last and this year will Each year seems better than unique display. no exception! the Union Island Tourist Board. Club, Palm Island Resort and — held at Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI on January 30th and at Kimsha Beach, St. held at Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI on January 30th Maarten on February 6th. care if you just swim in! — why not fly in, or maybe charter? Sail in, fly in, we don’t Just be there to help us celebrate the cruising lifestyle. DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 6 tion at1:00 Belmont, BequiaonSunday,February7th.Viewingstartsat12:00noonandtheauc- source ofincomefortheschool—andahugefunallwhoattend. needs. Theannual“Sailors’andLandlubbers’Auction”hasbecomeasignificant for thefullfinalline-up. www.begos.com/bequiamusicfest orwww.facebook.com/bequiamusicfest very specialweekendofgreatmusic,performancesandvibes! be anotherwinningformula,witholdandnewfriendscomingtogethertocreatea Saturday nightshow,youcanbesurethatBequia’s13thanniversaryMusicFestwill Bequia BeachHotelinFriendshipBay. Thursday andaSaturday-afternoon“MusicJamLime”bythebeachat including openingnightwithasteelpanorchestraattheFrangipaniHotelon — hotels closetothefestival—closestbeingOualieBeachResortandMountNevis pull yourdinghyuponthebeach.Or,ifyoufancysleepingashore,thereareseveral ness. It’slikebeinginanopen-airmusicclub. Tamarind Lounge.Onethingthatmarksoutthisfestivalisitsintimacyandfriendli- (Caribbean andinternational),orsplashoutforaVIPexperienceinthe canopy oftamarindtrees,takeyourpickavarietyfooddishes up andmusicfloatsacrossthebay.Youcanenjoyadrinkunderilluminated lays claimtothetag“BluesinParadise”.Assunsets,stagelightsgo soul androck. has inspiredgenerationsofbands,singersandguitaristsacrossjazz,pop, As thefestivalnamesuggests,musichasitsrootsinever-popularblues,which array ofinternationalartists,drawnmostlyfromtheUKandUSA. with theClassics.Forthissecondeditionorganizerspromiseanevenbigger of thisbeachsidemusicfestivalmadeabigimpactandin2016willagaincoincide taining stop-offattheNevisBluesFestival(17°11’57.53”N,62°36’39.80”W).Thedebut you justcan’tresist! Port Elizabeth)orbyattendingtheauctionitselfandbiddingforthatraregem Wallace &Co.ChandleryandFishingSuppliesnexttothePortholeRestaurantin items (donationscanbedroppedoffattheschoolduringregularhours,or handicrafts, unwantedgifts,householdgoods,jewelryandotherneworgentlyused directly totheschool. The 2016auctionwillbeheldattheGingerbreadRestaurantonwaterfrontin The BequiaSunshineSchoolisanon-profitorganizationforchildrenwithspecial Bequia Sailors’andLandlubbers’Auction For moreinformationseeadonpage14andcheck With theCaribbean’slegendarysaxophonistArturoTappinheadlining2016 Other venuesshowcaseartistesonamoreintimatescalethroughouttheweekend, Mooring inthebayyouwillbejust100to200metresfromfestivalsite.Simply Situated justfeetfromthewater’sedgeinOualieBay,NevisBluesFestival Yachts headingeasttoAntiguaforthe2015ClassicYachtRegattafoundanenter- The secondNevisBluesFestivalwillrunApril14ththrough16th,2016. Blues inParadise:Nevis Visit www.bequiasunshineschool.orgformoreinformation. Lend yoursupportbydonatingitemsfortheauctionsuchasboatgear,artand Continued frompreviouspage PM sharp.Donatedfoodanddrinkwillbeonsale,withallproceedsgoing DLJ5FU&XVU-&XVQ &ODVVLF &UXLVLQJ - 5DFHU&UXLVHU 5DFLQJ  ZZZJUHQDGDVDLOLQJZHHNFRP festival drawsclose. whose parentscamefromNevis.Moreartisteswillbeannouncedasthe porary bluesman;andUK-basedgospel/souldivaDeniseGordon, Ireland’s blues-rockrisingstarSimonMcBride;IanSiegal,theUK’sleadingcontem- — butnoneoftheisland‘shotelsorinnsismorethan20minutesawaybytaxi. pages 49through51. and BlueDiamondConciergeServiceofSt.Lucia,intheMarketPlacesection, tems ofFinland,onpage23;RainmandesalinationsystemsAustralia,22; In thisissueof Welcome Aboard! Visit www.nevisbluesfestival.comformoreinformation. Already confirmedfor2016areLosAngeles-basedguitaristKirkFletcher; Good tohaveyouwithus! Compass

wewelcomenewadvertisersOceanvoltelectricmotorsys- SCENEKITTS Blues Festival last year’sNevis Justin Merrickat DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 7 DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 8 as thebaseforinternationalyachting thesouthernCaribbean. Le Marin.Overthepastsixyearshehasspearheaded effortstopositionMartinique experienced managerofyacht-support activities throughhissuperyachtagencyin sentative andportagentforSevenstarYacht Transportintheregion.Douglasisan Yacht TransportwelcomesitsnewCaribbean representative. With thedemandforyachttransportrapidly expandingintheCaribbean,Sevenstar Rapier AppointedSevenstarRepresentative For moreinformationonIslandWaterWorldseeadpages9,11,35and56. to pickupasaUSBkeyversioninourstores,rightnexttheprintedcopy. and readyfordownload.Asinpreviousyears,itwillalsobeavailablecustomers able onlineatwww.islandwaterworld.com/index.htmasasearchablePDFversion pages, fullyloadedwithnewandexistingproducts.Itisnowincirculationavail- The newIslandWaterWorldchandlerycatalogueisbiggerthanever—with536 New IslandWaterWorldCatalogue For moreinformationonBudgetMarineseeadpage2. thing inbetween. cater tothesmallboatcruiser,raceboats,superyachts,sportfishermenandevery- Budget MarinehasgrowntobecometheleadingchandleryinCaribbean.They Caribbean. Withover30yearsofexperienceand13locationsCaribbeanwide, Budget Marineisthelargestretailerofboatingsuppliesandaccessoriesin ing thatpieceofequipment All theseexpansionsandadditionshaveonethinginmind:thegratificationofhav- the-art mixingforstate-of-the-artcoating. installation ofanAwlgrip-authorizedAwlmixColorMixingBanktoprovidestate-of- vice withtheadditionofarangepowerfulSuzukioutboardenginesaswell the The BudgetMarineTrinidadstorehasalsobeenindevelopment,expandingitsser- the currentretailspacetoexpandonrangesandintroducenewproducts. Grenada storeinitslocationatSpiceIslandMarineServices,leavingextraroom will strictlyhouseallboatbuildingmaterials,beingacorepartoftheBudgetMarine the newsectionlookveryattractiveandarereadyforseason.”Thearea expansion wecanmatchtheincreaseddemands.Wehavebeeneagertomake are seeingafewmarine-relateddevelopmentshereonislandandwithourcurrent warehousing. NicholasGeorge,managerofBudgetMarineGrenadareports,“We its currentretailspace(seephoto),aswellroughly400squarefeetofadditional play catch-upwithitsfast-growingmarket.Thestorehasadded1,200squarefeetto The BudgetMarineGrenadastorehasbeennextonthelistastheyalwayshadto and KayaNeerlandiainBonaire. move oftwoBudgetMarinechandleriestonewbuildings,inNannyCayMarina,BVI Budget MarineoutletintheNorthSoundServicesboatyard,Antiguaand ing itsofferingonfiveislands.Thelastmonthshaveseentheopeningofanew to meetthediverseandincreasingdemandsofboatingcommunitybyexpand- have beenburstingattheseamsandBudgetMarineisgettingreadyforseason Budget MarineChandleriesisallaboutthesemonths.Manyoftheirexistingstores Adding newoutlets,movingintobuildingsandexpandinginsizearewhat Budget MarineGrowsinEasternCaribbean For moreinformationonIslandWaterWorldseeadpages9,11,35and56. Reserve now—don’tmissout! and bathrooms,apicnicareatorelax. stocked chandlery,aserviceyard,nighttimesecurityguard,freeWiFi,showers pounds displacement.IWW’sSt.Maartenmarinaoffersthecomfortofawell- Island WaterWorldhasnewboatliftsavailableinSt.Maartenforboatsupto13,000 Island WaterWorldHasNewBoatLifts BUSINESS BRIEFS Douglas Rapier,basedinLeMarin,Martinique, willoperateascommercialrepre- today thatwillkeepyourboatrunningsmoothly. —Continued onnextpage DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 9 —Continued on next page Continued from previous page Continued from “Suzuki Marine outboards are perfect gifts for boaters who are looking to re-power “Suzuki Marine outboards are perfect gifts for boaters Burn Control system, which These outboards feature the world-leading Suzuki Lean the upcoming “It’s the perfect time of the year to start gearing up for our Facebook page Visit www.suzukipr.com to find a dealer near you. Visit 24. For more information on Suzuki Marine see ad on page Parts & Power Marine Air-Con Special Power is offering a 30-per- Cool out with this big discount from Parts & Power! Parts & or visit For more information on this special offer contact [email protected] 8. For more information on Parts & Power see ad on page IGY Marinas’ Community Service Initiative is rolling out a new IGY Marinas, the world’s largest international marina network, to our marinas to enjoy Chief Executive Officer Tom Mukamal says, “Boaters come The program’s objective is to identify a need area at each marina destination and Visit www.igymarinas.com/igy-community-service for more information. For more information on IGY’s Marina Santa Marta see ad on page 26. For more information on IGY’s Simpson Bay Marina see ad on page 40. New Pool Suites at Blue Lagoon Marina Danesha Deane reports: Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina on the south coast of St. Guests also have the choice of three places to eat on site: Café Soleil, Calm For more information on Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina see ad on page 39. ATL Fuel Bladders — Cruising the World ATL Fuel Bladders has tens of thousands of satisfied customers all over the globe, Suzuki Holiday Gifts for the Whole Family Suzuki Holiday Christmas gift for boaters is a Suzuki Marine out- Efrain Rivera reports: The perfect or want to upgrade their vessels with the best in power and technology,” says Erving or want to upgrade their vessels with the best in power “Whether it is the porta- Rosario, sales and marketing manager of Suzuki Del Caribe. between, a Suzuki outboard ble DF 2.5, an exciting DF 300AP or any other model in will be the perfect addition to your .” cutting fuel consumption. provides the highest performance and efficiency while battery-less Electronic Fuel Portable motors 9.9 to 30 horsepower feature the unique offer the Suzuki Precision Injection and Easy Start System while larger motors also outboards with 60 horse- Control, a state-of-the-art electronic system. Additionally, Black Metallic and new Cool power and up are now available in traditional Shadow look. White shades, which allows you to customize your boat’s season,” Erving added. “like” button for www.facebook.com/SuzukiCaribbeanMarine and hit the the latest information. marine air conditioning systems. cent discount on specially ordered Cruisair or Marine Air www.partsandpower.com/products_store_specials.php You”. The project will community service initiative in 2016: “Inspire Giving through operates its marinas. focus on community-based initiatives where the company always included communi- the destinations, local cultures and attractions. We have a plan to embark on our 2016 ty service in our business practices, and now we have destinations in which we live Community Outreach Project to give back to the local for the marina industry and and work. We hope this call to action serves as a model an inspiration to others.” partner with a nonprofit organization; to coordinate a community-focused event where IGY associates, customers and partners can make a difference; and to give back to each community. With opportunities ranging from animal adoption to improvements for youth and elderly organizations, “Inspire Giving Through You” aims to be a catalyst, encouraging ongoing social responsibility. On February 20, 2016, community outreach events will directly benefit Caribbean and Latin American communities. Vincent will soon add seven new rooms to their property. These pool suites feature a view of the hotel’s pool, which is nestled in our naturally beautiful garden, steps away from the beach. These luxurious suites offer king-sized or queen-sized beds and balconies. The rooms will be ready for the start of the New Year, making our total number of rooms 27. Now, guests will have three choices of views at Blue Lagoon Hotel & Marina: ocean view, marina view, and pool-and-garden view. Waters Restaurant and Flowt beach bar. We also have a supermarket, gym, two boutiques, Customs and Immigration, a dive shop and boat charter companies. Our front desk is equipped with information and has contracted tour guides and taxi drivers ready to take our guests on tours, but with so much to do on site you might never wish to leave the compound! reaping the benefits of their fully collapsible range-extension fuel bladder tanks. ATL’s bladder tanks help put the minds of captains and their crews at ease by ensur- ing that they have enough fuel to reach their destination. board. These engines feature cutting-edge technologies that enhance fuel efficien- board. These engines feature Powered by a Suzuki outboard, your boat cy and provide maximum performance. family can enjoy. will be a present the whole — “The islands Richard Klabbers, says, Transport’s Managing Director, Sevenstar Yacht in the world, cruising destinations are among the most popular of the Caribbean an important transportation location and them an excellent yacht and this makes a specialist to with Douglas to have found company. We are pleased region for our our presence.” further establish [email protected]. at (596 696) 45 89 75 or Contact Douglas 30. Transport see ad on page on Sevenstar Yacht For more information DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 10 Lift, a.k.a.TheHulk,liftedhiswidest-beamedboattodate,thecatamaran ed outandstapledtoyourchart,keeping itcompletelyuptodate. and aB32updateforSt.George’s,Grenada. Theseblockcorrectionscanbeprint- de France,Martinique,showingthenew yachtharboreastofthecontainerport, the southcoast,whichisagoodanchorage aslongthewindiseastornorthofeast. entrance toGrandBayatKendeacePoint. TheyalsoexploredGreatBretecheBayon narrow channel.Theyalsocorrectedsoundings inWateringBayandthesouth to-date soundingsinthechannelbySt.Hilaire Pointandtransitstopassthroughthis David Goldhill,whohaslivedontheeastcoast ofCarriacousince1984,producedup- coast ofCarriacou,Kristian,withtheaid localfishermanAlburn“Rex”Patriceand naval officer,onPetitTabacandtheeastsouthcoastsofCarriacou.On Curtain ontheeastcoastofCanouan,andbyKristianNygard,aretiredNorwegian Carriacou. ThisisaresultofexplorationsinFebruary2015byDonStreetandGeoff soundings, newanchoragesandblow-upinsetsoftheeastsouthcoasts The MarketPlaceGrenada. home orsimplyadmire. national artistsareondisplayandthechangingfloralarrangements,yourstotake racksatyourleisure,enjoythesmallgallerywherepaintingsbylocalandinter- stuffed withcandyandtoysmakeyourgiftlistmuchlighter. free, withaselectionofdeliandcheesetrays?Christmashampersstockings occasion. WithChristmasjustaroundthecorner,whynotplantoentertainhassle- neys, pluscheeses,,fresh-bakedbaguettesandlocalorganicproduce. nated cutsofmeatreadyforthegrillorvacuum-packedfrozenpieceslongjour- Louis Marina,Grenada.Thisfamily-rundeliaimstoprovidemarinerswithfresh,mari- aboard” experience.Waterandelectricitycomingup! and readytobeusedbyclientsonthehard,significantlyenhancing“living arrangement intheCaribbean. placement oneachlift.Additalltogetherandthishastobethebestlifting mum liftingloadstoeachblockasthevesselslowlycomesoutofwater. and adjusttheactualloadperblockpairmeansthatwecanslowlyapplyopti- length ofthevessel,optimumliftingpointscanbereached.” three strapsperblock.Withthecentertwoblocksbeingabletomovealong is enhancedthesmallerboat.TheHulkhasfourliftingblockseachsidewith The compressiveloadsdecreaseasthevessel’sbeamdecreases,sothisadvantage hulls bytheslingsaresignificantlylessthanthoseappliedtonarrowerlifts. Manager, NielsLund,“isthatthelateralcompressiveloadsareappliedto — noproblem! Privilege 65withabeamof35feet,draftsixfeetanddisplacementtons season andhopetoseeyou. or wecanchecktheweatherforecastforyou.Welcomeall!Wewishyouawindy like, youcanpartakeinoneofLovelyLinda’syogasessions,suitableforalllevels. a coupleofdaysonshore,takeyoudailykiteexcursions,andfixyourkite.If you willalsofindboardshorts,bikinis,Lycras,T-shirtsandmuch,muchmore. worry: thejewelryisstaying,ofcourse!InadditiontoandCaribbeanartwork, Turquoise atthetownsquareinClifton.ForallfansofAnnieFrance’sartwork,don’t ners toadvanced. and landlubbers.Weareteachingaspiringkitesurfersofalllevelsages,begin- the firstkitesurfersonUnionIsland,wearereadytoshareourpassionwithallsailors or tollfree(800)526-5330. bilities, contactanATLSalesEngineerbycalling(201)825-1400 boatbladders.com. ForadditionalquestionsortoinquireaboutATL’scustomcapa- ders, alongwithahostofaccessories,areavailableforpurchaseontheirwebsite, just completed. crossing oftheIndianOceanthatthey quer featssuchasthe3,023-nautical-mile tional fuelallowstheHamiltonstocon- and arecompactlystowed.Theaddi- not inuse,thebladderseasilyfoldup within James supplied,whichfitsconveniently bladder, basedonthedimensionsthat bladders, ATLalsobuiltacustomfuel of standard300-gallonATLFueLocker® eling fardistances.Inadditiontoapair safely extendtheirfuelrangewhentrav- duo oftenrelyonATLFuelBladdersto in hermaintanks,thehusbandandwife Although — globe intheirNordhavn52, Washington, arecurrentlycruisingthe James Hamilton,whoresideinSeattle, ing shortofextraordinary.Jenniferand ular ATLcustomerwhosetravelsarenoth- community. However,thereisonepartic- lasting relationshipswithintheyachting Also gotowww.imray.comcorrections findablockcorrectionchartA30forFort Don Streetreports:ImrayIolairehasissuedanupdatedchartB31,correctedwithnew Imray IolaireChartB31Updated For moreinformationonPortLouisMarinaseeadpage20. For [email protected] at Whether you’repickingupaquickcupofgreenjasmineteatogo,orbrowsingthe Stop inforaquickbasketfullofgoodies,ortoplaceanorderyourspecial A newdelicatessen,wineshopandgrocerywillopenonDecember15thatPort The MarketPlaceatPortLouisMarina Visit www.clarkescourtmarina.comformoreinformation. What elseishappeningatClarkesCourt?Anewwashroomfacilitycompleted We alsohavetwodiversinthewatertocheckforobstructionsandmonitorsling For woodenboats,themultipleslings/positionstogetherwithourabilitytomonitor A bigadvantageofourverywidetravellift(40feet),accordingtoYard Arlene Telesfordreports: In Grenada,‘TheHulk’CallsCatamarans! Visit www.happykitegrenadines.comformoreinformation. If youjustwanttostopbyforachat,wewillshareoursecretsaboutUnionIsland, We willalsoofferkitecampsallseasonlong,findahotelroomforyouifneed This year,weareexpandingourbusiness,andwillopenaSurfShopinL’Atelier Nicolas Bascunana-Dulacreports:AtHappykite,thekiteboardingschoolrunby Learn toKitesurfintheGrenadines For moreinformationonATLFuelBladdersseeadpage43. ATL’s completelineofdeck-mounted,fullycollapsiblerange-extensionfuelblad- Over the years, ATL has forged many Over theyears,ATLhasforgedmany Continued frompreviouspage Dirona’s Dirona Portuguese . When Portuguesebow.When can carry 1,750 gallons cancarry1,750gallons

On October30th,ClarkesCourtBoatyard&MarinaTravel Dirona . Felicia , a DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 11

CHRIS DOYLE , built here, I know I got a wonder- , too much paperwork is required to Ti Kanot by Chris Doyle newspaper online recently ran an article on the recently ran an article newspaper online Trinidad Express

in Trinidad

Saturday Express The Yachting Decline The Yachting — and Hopes for the Future — and Hopes In addition, as mentioned in So what is the down side? I think much of it has to do with officialdom. As other Finally, if you have to travel, it is usually easier and cheaper to fly in and out of If any yachting industry is to be really successful, yachting visitors need to be free The prices at the boatyards and the quality of work in Trinidad are still very com- The prices at the boatyards and the quality of work in is less than in the other Then, when it comes to hurricanes, the risk in Trinidad Then there are simple things like departure. The standard in most islands is to give Another asset is Jesse James’ Members Only taxi service. Jesse is an amazing guy Another asset is Jesse James’ Members Only taxi service. Trinidad retains a number of advantages and some things are done better there Trinidad retains a number of advantages and some So what happened? Why did half the stop coming? So what happened? Why did half the boats stop coming? Trinidad’s success, start- Part of the reason is that people in other islands, seeing Back in the 1990s when Trinidad first went into the yachting business in a big went into the yachting business when Trinidad first Back in the 1990s Trinidad’s islands have made things easier for yachts, Trinidad has gone backwards. At the height of the Trinidad yachting , yachts were free to sail to just about any anchorage, and even, for a while, to Tobago, without any paperwork apart from entry. This is how it works in nearly every island in the Eastern Caribbean. Nowadays, if you have a non-Trinidad boat, you are supposed to get permission even to go to Scotland Bay for the day. This has a chilling effect on yachties. In the old days, apart from hauling, I would often make a few day trips to nearby islands, tak- ing local friends with me. Now that I have to run to Customs each time I want to move, I’ve given this up. So I come, haul and leave. After all, it is much like having land tourists who rent a car have to go to the police station to get a permit each time they want to leave one of the parishes. It doesn’t work. Trinidad than many other islands. to enjoy the country and its anchorages. This feeds the haul-out and work side, and vice versa. This used to be the case in Trinidad, but while other island governments have made things easier for yachts, welcoming them for longer stays, Trinidad has gone backwards in its application of regulations. A complete revamp of yachting regulations in Trinidad, aimed at making yachts feel welcome and appreciated, would give Trinidad a chance of regaining some of its lost business. Without that, a turnaround seems unlikely. In times of falling prices for oil, I would have thought a sizeable industry that directly benefits up to ten thousand Trinidadians would be worth the effort. petitive, and you will not get a broader range of specialties. As an example, there are petitive, and you will not get a broader range of specialties. you don’t find at all in two shops that specialize in refinishing props, something those who have been in the many other islands. It is true that this works best for because contractors and islands a while and understand how to work with locals, prices vary hugely. Having had my boat, Lesser Antilles. yachts 24 hours to leave after clearance. This gives cruisers time to clear, sort them- selves out and leave. Immigration in Trinidad gives 24 hours, but Customs often only gives four hours. who remembers nearly all his customers, as well as their spouses and kids. He orga- who remembers nearly all his customers, as well as their well as regular shopping trips, nizes trips to all the interesting places in Trinidad as in port. Other islands may some of them free. With Jesse you always have a friend none keeps his finger on the have good taxi tours and taxi service providers, but pulse and offers such a good and varied service as Jesse. ful job at an excellent price. enter and leave the country. The forms still ask about stowaways, and people are required to fill in the same information time after time on several forms. In the mean- time, other islands have SailClear, where, if you wish, you can do your entry in advance on the internet. When you go to Customs, they print it out. And if you don’t do that, nearly every country has an easy single form entry. than in most other islands. The first of these is duty-free delivery of yacht parts. If than in most other islands. The first of these is duty-free — you do not need a broker you bring them in yourself, it is a very simple system often arrive in Chaguaramas, — and it works very well. If parts come in by courier they if you are shipping in, some where they can be picked up without hassle. (However, things to Chaguaramas: this carriers seem to have a Customs problem delivering more cumbersome process.) happened to me with FedEx, which resulted in a much ed investing in yachting infrastructure. This is particularly true of Grenada, which ed investing in yachting infrastructure. This is particularly going to put your boat to bed, now has three large haul-out yards, and if you are just have to make. When Trinidad’s staying in Grenada means two 80-mile trips you don’t yacht services. It has yachting boom was going strong, Grenada had rudimentary marine field. now attracted many excellent workers in nearly every way, it was far from clear that yachts would be persuaded to make the 80-mile trip be persuaded to make from clear that yachts would way, it was far facilities. The to take advantage of the new (overnight for many) south from Grenada facilities farther enough haul-and-store however: there were not timing was good, new yachting a lack of skilled labor. The many other islands there was north, and in success and many yachtsmen loved it so much they business was an outstanding season to enjoy Trinidad’s rich cultural heritage. hung around through the hurricane steel pan, the best bands are here, and there are always After all, this is the home of there is the wonderfully varied wildlife watching, other things happening. Then and turtles coming in at night to lay eggs. which features brilliant birds, decline of the yachting sector in Trinidad: there were 2,654 arrivals in 2000 and only there were 2,654 arrivals yachting sector in Trinidad: decline of the single-page har- Immigration to adopt a The failure of Customs and 1,060 in 2014. blamed for part for around 15 years, was which has been suggested monized form, of the drop. DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 12

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ZSUZSANNA PUSZTAI Caribbean a Droughtand dreds ofmigratorybird-themedcardsattheHappyBird-dayCardartworkshop. vide foodformigratorybirdsatthePortablePondObservationStation,andmadehun- up-close lookwithmicroscopesandmagnifyingboxesatthewetlandcrittersthatpro- birds andbirdhabitatsduringdroughtattheShadowofaDroughtExhibition,gotan nating multimediapresentations.AttendeeslearnedaboutwhathappenstoSt.Martin’s Nature FoundationBoardMemberBinkievanEs. Salt Pond,ledregularlythroughouttheFestivalbyprofessionalbirdingguideand tation wassocrowdeditclearwe’llneedabiggerroomnexttime!” engage withtheirhistoryandcultureinwayslikethis.Infact,Dr.Haviser’spresen- a trulyuniqueintersectionofnaturalandculturalheritage.Peoplereallywantto invisible —alsohappentobegreatplacesforobservingbirdsandotherwildlife.It’s walls, theleveesandpolesthataretangibletracesofapastwhichissometimes “These structuresthatwecanstillseefromthetimeofsaltexploitation—stone both birdsandpeople,”explainedJennYerkes,PresidentofLesFruitsdeMer. tory wasalsoonviewattheevent.“TheGreatSaltPondishistoricallyimportantfor heritage sitesandbirdhabitats.Anexhibitionpanelaboutsaltproductionhis- historic structuresvisibleintheGreatSaltPond,oneofisland’smostimportant tage ofsaltonSt.Martin,followedbyawalkingtourthepansandother flocked tothestanding-room-onlypresentationabouthistoryandculturalheri- by Dr.JayHaviser,DirectoroftheSt.MaartenArchaeologicalCenter.Attendees about theisland’smanymigratoryspeciesandtheirextraordinaryjourneys. by thenon-profitgroupLesFruitsdeMerforresidentsandvisitorstoseelearn The MigratoryBirdFestivalisafree,annualpublicWildlifeDiscoveryEventcreated 2015 MigratoryBirdFestival,heldonOctober17thattheUniversityofSt.Martin. are tobenefitfromtheprogramme. in Jamaica,Bahamas,Barbados,Grenada,Antigua,Turks&Caicos,andSt.Lucia educate studentsonprotectingtheenvironment,particularlymarinelife.Students was launchedatBeachesOchoRiosinJamaicaSeptember.Theprogrammewill regions oftheCaribbeanwhereSandalsFoundationoperates.Theprogramme need toconserveit.” young peopleabouttheimportanceofmarinelifeandwhyitisimportantthatwe ed ourmarinelifetowhereitisnowinadiresituationandweneedteachthe adults havenotdoneaverygoodjobinconservingourmarinelife.Wedegrad- importance ofthemarineenvironment. throughout theCaribbeantohelpeducateouryouthandraiseawarenesson CARIBSAVE todevelopanddeliveraone-yearschools’MarineAwarenessProgramme Wild StatiaseriesintheWeekendersectionof in between.ManyofthechaptersareadaptedfromarticlesYokoyama’songoing life, frommajestictropicbirdstoextraordinarynocturnalinsects,andallthelizards the authors. Mark Yokoyama.The55-pagebookisillustratedwithcaptivatingphotostakenby a freeeBook— December 6thatLoterieFarm. celebration ofSt.Martin’sincredibleinsectsandfantasticforestbirds,comingupon at www.lesfruitsdemer.com. Caribbean plantsfromtheLesFruitsdeMerwebsite’sresourcespage wildlife canbesharedbysendingthem to [email protected]. wildlife onStatia,we’dlovetohearit.” Stories, informationandnamesforStatian ways thatwehaveimpactednatureover time.Ifyouhaveanyinformationabout human culture—thenamesgiventoanimals, thestoriestoldaboutthemand that youwillnoticein learn aboutwildlifefromthepeopleof Statia. AccordingtoYokoyama,“Onething Tourism DevelopmentFoundationandfunding fromNuStarTerminals,NV. the non-profitassociationLesFruitsdeMer,withsupportfromSt.Eustatius The authorsaimtocompletethewildlifeguidein2016.Thisprojectismanaged by ing guidetothewildlifeofStatia,whichwillbefirstbookitstypeforisland. fascinating storiesthatareoftenleftunexploredbyscientificpublications. understand andprotectnaturalheritage.Theformatofthebookemphasizes the discover moreaboutthehabitatsthatsupportwildlifeandworkbeingdoneto Anyone whomissedtheeventcandownloadfreephotoessayeBook The event’sassemblyroomwaspackedthroughouttheFestivalforaseriesoffasci- Also extremelypopularwithevent-goerswerethebirdwatchingtoursofGreat One ofthehighlightseventwasHeritageSaltPresentationandWalkled More than200peoplecelebratedSt.Martin’sspectacularmigratorybirdsatthe St. Martin’s2015MigratoryBirdFestival The SaveourSeas,SchoolsProgrammeisexpectedtorunin40schoolstheten Jonathan Hernold,EnvironmentalOfficeroftheSandalsFoundation,says,“Weas Sandals FoundationhaspartneredwiththeGuyHarveyand Save OurSeas,SchoolsProgramme The book’s15chapterseachtakeacloserlookatuniqueaspectofStatia’swild- Anyone withaninterestintheislandofStatiaanditswildlifeisforarealtreat: Discover Statia’sWildlifeinFreeEBook Visit www.lesfruitsdemer.comformoreinformation. Les FruitsdeMer’snextWildlifeDiscoveryEventwillbeBirds&Bugs2015,afree The eBookcanbedownloadedforfreeat lesfruitsdemer.comorstatiawildlife.com. In additiontodocumentingtheanimals themselves,theauthorsareexcitedto Madden andYokoyamawillbeinthefieldthisweekdoingresearchfortheirupcom- BirdsCaribbean’s free Wild Statia Wild Statia —wasjustreleasedbynaturalistsHannahMaddenand isapassionforconnectingnaturalhistory with Heritage Plants ECO The DailyHerald guidetobird-friendlynative —Continued onnextpage -News . Readerswillalso Shadow of DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 13

ZSUZSANNA PUSZTAI Continued from previous page Continued from Full article at: “The social climate is ripe for balanced and strong restrictions on both groups for Most importantly, this study shows that both fishers and divers are ready for “Island residents are committed to finding ways to restore their reefs and fish The numbers of large grouper, snapper and parrotfish populations have indeed The study found that most fishers (89 percent) perceived catching fewer fish than Meanwhile, dive instructors say showing visitors seahorses and rare marine life is As she journeyed through the islands, fishermen told Johnson that they used to “Most jarring were the words of a 15-year-old fisher who told me that fishers used “Most jarring were the words of a 15-year-old fisher who According to Dr. Johnson’s research, fishermen are more aware than divers of the According to Dr. Johnson’s research, fishermen are more The situation is better on the islands of Curaçao and Bonaire than many other The situation is better on the islands of Curaçao and “We found that 94 percent of divers acknowledged that their diving damages the “We found that 94 percent of divers acknowledged that In the past 45 years, Caribbean coral cover has declined from 35 percent to 16 In the past 45 years, Caribbean coral cover has declined Fishermen and Divers Agree: Reefs Need Stronger Management coral reefs need stronger New research shows that fishermen and divers agree that To learn more about STCB’s nesting program, visit www.bonaireturtles.org/adopt-a- Bonaire Companies ‘Adopt’ Sea Turtle Nests Bonaire Companies which the Adopt a Nest program, Bonaire has launched Sea Turtle Conservation www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2351989415000402 reef recovery and sustainable use,” said Johnson. “These measures would be a major step forward towards the long-term conservation of reef resources.” meaningful management actions. The authors offer up a number of policy reforms they believe would be well received on Curaçao and Bonaire. These include establish- ing large marine reserves that are closed to both and diving, limiting the number of fishers and divers, and easing the transition to more sustainable use of coral reef resources. populations. And through the Blue Halo Initiative, the Waitt Institute is partnering with the government and people of Curaçao to envision, design, and implement new ocean management that is grounded in science and based on community priorities,” said Johnson, now executive director of the Washington, DC-based Waitt Institute. The Initiative is also active on Barbuda and Montserrat. plummeted across the region, along with the coral itself, as a recent analysis by the Global Coral Reef Monitoring Network showed. Meanwhile, invasive species such as lionfish have been able to establish themselves throughout the region, further threatening endemic fisheries. previous generations. An overwhelming 96 percent of fishers and 94 percent of divers with over five years of local experience reported that some species they used to catch or see are rare or missing now. great for their business, but that the halo of reef damage left behind by tourists bumping sensitive corals continues to degrade the already damaged environment. be able to use the oceans around their islands as a supermarket, setting out to catch a specific fish and bringing it home for dinner. “Today, too often, they come back empty-handed,” she said. to show the size of their catch vertically [holding his hands off the ground],” said to show the size of their catch vertically [holding his his hands shoulder width Johnson. “Now they show fish size horizontally [holding apart]. And this all happened in the past few decades.” degradation of their reef ecosystem, but don’t acknowledge much of the blame for it. degradation of their reef ecosystem, but don’t acknowledge view of the reefs, but point to Scuba divers in Curaçao and Bonaire have a rosier Yet the divers are also to fishers as the primary culprits behind its destruction. of poor behavior under water. blame — especially as their numbers grow — because local seafood has depleted the Many novices kick the reefs, and tourist demand for very fish they want to see when they dive. places, but they have not escaped degradation. In the course of her places, but they have not escaped degradation. In instructors. She set out to research, Johnson interviewed 388 fishers and scuba how they perceive the reefs understand how fishers and divers are using the ocean, support. Their answers give and fisheries, and what types of management they would is primed for policymakers to cause for hope: that the social climate of these islands of both groups. put strong conservation measures in place, for the benefit reefs,” said Dr. Jackson. “That industry needs to be regulated, too, if reefs are going reefs,” said Dr. Jackson. “That industry needs to be regulated, to have a chance at recovering.” percent. Fish populations have plummeted due to overfishing. And fishers are having percent. Fish populations have plummeted due to overfishing. prevalence of a historically a hard time making a living, in turn bringing down the scuba dive tourism has important livelihood across the Caribbean. Meanwhile, increased dramatically. management, and that broad support exists for new Caribbean ocean policies. In a management, and that broad support exists for new Jackson argue that the new paper, Dr. Ayana Elizabeth Johnson and Dr. Jeremy scuba divers on Curaçao coral reef crisis has brought fishermen and professional to a historic consensus: the and Bonaire (two notoriously independent groups) serious trouble and stronger essential coral reef fisheries of the Caribbean are in government action is needed. nest and the Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire Facebook page. nest and the Sea Turtle Conservation Bonaire Facebook vation at the same time. Maduro & Curiel’s Bank NV, Administratiekantoor Brandaris & Curiel’s Bank NV, Administratiekantoor Brandaris vation at the same time. Maduro Communications and Flamingo Express Dutch Caribbean BV, BV, Flamingo adoption of a sea turtle nest. were the first companies to sign up for STCB’s symbolic most recently joined this pro- Akkermans Auto Supplies BV and Club Roomer have the work STCB does to gram by adopting a nest. A symbolic adoption supports it also allows companies to ensure nesting success for Bonaire’s sea turtles, and employees. share highlights of their adoption with customers and provides a way for local businesses to protect nature and link their brands to conser- nature and link their brands for local businesses to protect provides a way — DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 14 The Bequia Tourism Association presents:

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TheCSAhasmadeasolidcommitmenttoyouthsailingdevelop- had agreattimeandtheteamscoringformatofferedaninterestingtwistto commented, “ClubNáuticoprovedtobeaqualifiedandcapablehost.Theracers which wontheCaribbeanDinghyChampionshipsin2013. coached byTaylorPenwell.Thisisarepeatvictoryforthispromisingsailingclub, ors. Theoverallwinner,withvictoriesinthreeofthefiveclasses,wasBVIteam, total numberofpointsforeachteamwasthesumscorestheirsail- two-crew 420sandsingle-handedLaserStandards,RadialsOptimists.The two days.Eachislandfieldedateamcoveringfiveboattypes:four-crewIC-24s, by theSailingSchoolofClubNáuticodeSanJuan. (USVI), PuertoRico,St.MaartenandtheBritishVirginIslands.Theeventwashosted San Juan,PuertoRicofromOctober16ththrough18th,withentriesSt.Thomas 2016. Visitwww.csaconference.orgforinformationandupdates. Sailing Association. bine voicestoachievebroaderexposuretheinternationalcommunity. to coordinateinterestsandevents,exchangeideasbestpractices,com- for yachtclubs,regattas,sailingorganizationsandsailorsthroughouttheCaribbean simple andfairhandicapsystemforracing.Additionally,theCSAservesasaforum Caribbean sailingtotheworld.TheCSAalsoadministersRatingRulesprovidea program islandbythroughouttheCaribbean. Sea willcontinuetoworkwithallmembersoftheCSAassistindeveloping damage occurringinourcoralreefsduetopoorwastemanagement.Sailorsforthe leveraging sponsorships,engagingyouths,workingwithNGOsandlookingatthe communities. Includedwerepresentationsonintegratedwastemanagement, of howregattaorganizerscanusetheireventstoeffectpermanentchangein delivered sixseparatesessionscoveringitsCleanRegattasprogram,withdiscussion through thesponsorshipsupportofSailorsforSea.TheSeateam consistent results.” needs oftheirlocal,regionalandinternationalcustomersprovidefair refining eachoftherules.Thiswillensurerulescontinuetomeetspecific reaching outtodifferentsourcesestablishnewpartnershipsassistwithfurther decision tomoveforwardinaslightlydifferentdirectionandassuchtheCSAwillbe Chen said,“Aftermanyhoursofdiscussion,themeasurers’grouphasmade brand: thesimplifiedrule,classicmultihullruleandmainCSArule. years fromanindividualkeelboatruleintofourseparaterulesundertheCSA meeting, JeffreyexplainedthattheCSAratingrulehasgrownovermorethan50 group, ledbyJeffreyChen.Inhisreportbacktotheconferencefollowing order tokeepupwithstate-of-the-artdevelopmentsinthesailingindustry.” a refocusofthemeasurers’groupwillseeourratingrulescontinuetodevelopin a strongbaseofyoungsailorsenteringthesportthroughoutregion.Inaddition, region totheworldwhilebuildingsupportforouryouthprogramsensurewehave structure wenowhaveinplaceandcontinuetolookatopportunitiesmarketour over thepastthreeyears.Ourjobasaboardandanassociationistobuildon enormous contributionPeterhasmadetotheassociationinhisroleaspresident Judy PetzoftheBVIandMikeGreenSt.Lucia. Jeffrey ChenofTrinidad,whocontinuesasChiefMeasurer.Newtotheboardare British VirginIslands,JaimeTorresofPuertoRico,AlisonSly-AdamsAntiguaand Regatta OrganizingCommittee. ership oftheorganizationtoKathyLammers,ChairmanAntiguaSailingWeek’s Annual GeneralMeeting,atwhichoutgoingPresidentPeterHolmbergpassedlead- Maarten fromOctober23rdto25th.Thethree-dayconferencebeganwiththe when theCaribbeanSailingAssociation’sAnnualConferencewasheldinSt. The 2015CaribbeanDinghyChampions,TeamBVI 3) KaiHolmberg.St.Thomas 2) ThadLettsome.BVI 1) PedroLuisFernández.PuertoRico RADIAL 3) MarkVandenDriessche.St.Thomas 2) AgustínLázaro.PuertoRico 1) JasonPutley.BVI LASER STANDARD 3) JoséArturoDíaz.PuertoRico 2) MiaNicolosi.St.Thomas 1) RayneDuff.BVI OPTIMIST CLASS 2015 CaribbeanDinghyChampions CSA RepresentativeJaimeTorreswasimpressedwiththequalityofracingand Nine windward/leewardraceswereheldinthecalmwatersofSanJuanBayover The CaribbeanSailingAssociation’sDinghyChampionshipswereheldin BVI Tops2015CaribbeanDinghyChampionships The nextCSAConferencewilltakeplaceinAntiguafromOctober21stto22nd, Visit caribbean-sailing.comformoreinformationontheCaribbean The CaribbeanSailingAssociationpromotessailingwithintheregion,and The majorfocusoftheconferenceforregattaorganizerswasonsustainability A significantpartoftheconferencewasdedicatedtoameetingmeasurers Lammers says,“IamhonoredtobevotedinasCSAPresidentandrecognizethe Holmberg remainsontheboardalongwithChrisHaycraftandPamFullerof More than50oftheCaribbean’smostinfluentialpeopleinyachtracingconvened New CSAPresidentasRatingRuleChangesCourse REGATTA NEWS —Continued onnextpage DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 15

WCC/CLARE PENGELLY at Inua , was set magazine. —Continued on next page Yachting World Leopard by Finland at 104.27 feet, built in 2014 by Farfalla crew prepares snack bags for the crossing Mojeka’s Continued from previous page Continued from This year’s boats are registered in 30 different countries, and crewmembers repre- This year’s boats are registered in 30 different countries, The ARC is a fun rally for cruising yachts. Boats are allowed to motor, although The ARC is a fun rally for cruising yachts. Boats are allowed 420 & Daniel Petrovic. BVI 1) Sam Morrell Thomas & Margaret Bartlett. St. 2) Teddy Nicolosi & Johanna Loser. St. Maarten 3) Alec Scasabelli IC-24 St. Maarten Ross, R Hope Ross & C Pessler. 1) F Bus, I Hope & R Hunter. St. Thomas J Holmberg, JP Montegue 2) C Sharpless, BVI Reshetiloff, M Hirst & K Wrigley. 3) A Waters, T ON THE HORIZON… for Cruisers 30th Anniversary Atlantic Rally Rally for Cruisers (ARC) has continued to thrive, Since its inception, the Atlantic boats and 1,250 people (including 40 children aged Last month, more than 260 A gala reception for ARC 2015 is planned in St. Lucia, where an especially warm A gala reception for ARC 2015 is planned in St. Lucia, For more information on St. Lucia see ad on page 29. on the ARC. Visit www.worldcruising.com/arc for more information ARC Caribbean 1500 & ARC Bahamas Head Offshore from Portsmouth, Virginia as Thirty-four yachts headed offshore on November 11th Six of the boats were bound for Marsh Harbour in the Abacos. The balance of the Visit www.worldcruising.com/carib1500 for more information. Top Teams for Aguilar Match Race in USVI Carol Bareuther reports: Nine Open teams representing some of the best match “We are bringing world-class match racing to St. Thomas,” says regatta director Bill The USVI’s Taylor Canfield, the Number Two ranked Open division match racer in “This definitely will be one of the toughest events of the year for my team! The USA’s David Storrs, the world’s Number 19 ranked Open match racer and ARC 2015 is sponsored by the Tourist Board of Gran Canaria, the Saint Lucia TouristARC 2015 is sponsored by the Tourist Board of Gran Canaria, Almost ready to go! choice of routes with the introduction of ARC+ Cape Verde: 64 boats sailing ARC+ choice of routes with the introduction of ARC+ Cape Verde: larger ARC fleet (204 boats) departed Las Palmas on November 8th, followed by the on November 22nd. Hallberg Rassy 310 sent 41 nationalities. The smallest boat in ARC 2015 is the 9.40 metres (31 feet). The largest boat is 12.2 metres (40 feet) long, Southern Wind. Fifteen percent of the boats are less than are 15.3 to 18.3 metres 43 percent are 12.2 to 15.3 metres (50 feet) and 42 percent (60 feet). the results. The ARC motoring times are taken into account when calculating Racing Division are not per- Racing Division is run using IRC ratings, and yachts in the record of eight days 14 mitted to use their engines for propulsion. The ARC course hours, 39 minutes and 51 seconds, held by the Farr 100 reaching a record entry of 235 yachts in 1999, and regularly exceeding 220 entries 235 yachts in 1999, and regularly exceeding 220 entries reaching a record entry of of ARC+, more than 250 boats now sail under each year. Following the introduction It has become a firmly established event on the interna- the ARC banner each year. celebrates its 30th edition this year. tional sailing calendar and de Gran Canaria, heading 2,700 nautical miles under 16) set sail from Las Palmas in the 30th running of the ARC. ARC sailors had a across the Atlantic to St. Lucia — welcome awaits the fleet. part of the combined Caribbean 1500 and ARC Bahamas fleets. The rally was delayed for three full days thanks to a disturbance in the tropics that would eventu- ally form into Hurricane Kate. But as the fleets headed offshore, bound for the BVI and the Bahamas, respectively, the skies in Portsmouth had cleared. fleet set a course for Tortola in the British Virgin Islands. racers in the world will compete in the 7th Annual Carlos Aguilar Match Race (CAMR), set for December 3rd through 6th in the US Virgin Islands. Canfield. “Today’s young stars will compete against each other as well as former world champions and America’s Cup sailors. This is possibly the most compelling match racing event in the world this year.” the world, will be back in the waters where he grew up to pit his skills against the impressive fleet. Charlotte Amalie harbor is a great spot to race: it offers shifty, puffy conditions on a short racetrack right in front of the waterfront, allowing for some great spectating. But it is also unique in that the wall becomes an obstruction in most races and the boats often come within inches of the waterfront,” says Canfield. Number Two in the US, will compete in the CAMR for the first time. Storrs’ crew will be fellow American Hayden Goodrick plus New Zealanders Rod Dawson and Garth Ellingham. Canfield and Storrs will be up against the USA’s Stephanie Roble, Number Two ranked match racer in the Women’s division on the world stage and Number One ranked in the US. The USVI’s Peter Holmberg and USA’s Dave Dellenbaugh, both former America’s Cup sailors and veterans of the CAMR, round out the top five confirmed teams to date. Holmberg, an Olympic silver medalist and former world match-racing champion, won this event in 2009. in ARC 2014. Authority of Las Palmas, theBoard, IGY Rodney Bay Marina; and supported by the Port with City Hall of Las Palmas de Gran Canaria; in association DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 16 MOVING FORWARD [email protected] /[email protected] General canvaswork Upholstery Cushions Biminis andDodgers CARIBBEAN Anguilla Racing +1(721) 544-5231/520-6484 Opposite IslandWater World with UllmanSails has teamedup and CanvasN.V St. MaartenSails sailmaking team The same More service. More expertise. More technology. — ashore afterwards. competition onthewaterandgreatfun even betterthanbefore,withfierce of support,theregattapromisestobe as essential,contributors.Withthiskind Tree Marineandmoresmaller,butjust Hardware, GrenadaMarineandPalm Cottages, RealValueIGA,Ace Caribbean, L’AnseAuxEpines Spice IslandMarineServices,Doyle Marina, GrenadaTourismAuthority, Premium YachtFinishes,SecretHarbour this regatta:MountGayRum,SeaHawk local businessesandorganizationsin ongoing investmentofinternationaland develops. Itishearteningalsotoseethe big plusfortheregattaasitgrowsand and involvementsince2013hasbeena World’s activesponsorshipcommitment that beganin2015.IslandWater three-year titlesponsorshipagreement Island WaterWorldhaveconfirmedthe Week willtakeplacefromJanuary28ththroughFebruary2nd. Day, January21st. Gay RumRoundBarbadosRace—whichtraditionallytakesplaceonErrolBarrow week inJanuarytoincorporatetheheadlineevent—60-nauticalmileMount Marketing Inc,andMountGay,thisregattaalwaystakesplaceduringthethird Round BarbadosRaceSeries. on layday,haveallhelpedestablishtheuniqueidentityofMountGayRum Distillery, andthechancetosoakupBajanhospitalityatanexhibitionpolomatch opportunities, togetherwithlegendaryparties,avisittotheMountGayRum teams lookingfortop-classracing. Race toAntiguatieupwiththeSuperyachtChallenge,givesplentyofoptionsfor Rum RoundBarbadosRace,andthechancetocontestafinal300-mileOcean record-breaking favourite.Threedaysofcoastalracing,theheadlineMountGay one ofthekeyeventsonracecircuit,andisfastbecomingaspeed-sailing, ing opportunitieswereintroduced,thisCaribbean-season-openingregattaisnow January 16ththrough24th,arewellunderway. e-mail. RegistrationwillbeattheAYCofficeorbye-mailtocricketant112@gmail.com. marine products. Harbour andNorthSoundtheyofferboatersinAntiguaawiderangeof Caribbean. WiththreechandleriesinAntigualocatedJollyHarbour,English prizegiving andclosingpartyattheAYCon26th. greater thenumberofentries,easieritistohavegreatclasses! may bemixed.Inparticular,workboatswillprotectedfromracingboats.The CSA certificates.Non-ratedboatswillbefittedasbestpossibleintoclassesthat Five. CourseswillbeintheenvironsofFalmouthHarbour. Races willbebetweenoneandone-and-a-halfhours,exceptforthelongerRace final raceoftheseriesisincorporatedintotraditionalAYCBoxingDayRace. Wednesday, December23rd;andtwoonSaturday,26th.Thefifth Sandy Mair.Fiveraceswilltakeplace:twoonSunday,December20th;one events attheAntiguaYachtClub. together visitorsandlocalsinfriendly,sportsmanlikeracingattheafter-race Christmas celebrationswithaseriesofyachtraces.TheHighTideSeriesbrings porting sponsor. AeroMD isthemajorsponsor.TheUSVirginIslandsDepartmentofTourismasup- authorities fortheCAMR,namedlateCarlosAguilar,anavidmatchracer. Island Sol. The eventwillberacedinIC-24s,aone-designmodificationofJ/24,providedby a member. water. Thisyear,eachOpenteamwillhaveaVIhighschoolsailor(underage18)as government andDepartmentofTourisminitseffortstogetmorekidsoutonthe With ahandshake,GSWBoardChairmanMarcDeCaulandMattVeinotteof Now isthetimetosignupforstartline!IslandWaterWorldGrenadaSailing Island WaterWorldGrenadaSailingWeek For moreinformationseeadonpage5. Organized bytheBarbadosCruisingClubinassociationwithTourism Thanks toitsre-launchin2014,whereanewraceformatandmorerecord-break- Plans forthe80thanniversaryMountGayRoundBarbadosRaceSeries,set Mount GayRoundBarbadosinJanuary There willbenoskippers’meeting:allquestionsandinformationaretohandledby Budget Marine,theprincipalsponsor,islargestchandlerychainin An afterraceget-togetheristraditionaleveryday,withagrandfinal The eventwillaccommodatealltypesofkeelboats;racingclassentriesrequire The HighTideSeries2016willbesponsoredbyBudgetMarineandorganized This yearwillbethe24thtimethatAntiguaYachtClubmixingits Antigua’s HighTidefortheHolidays Visit www.carlosmatchrace.comformoreinformation. The VirginIslandsSailingAssociationandSt.ThomasYachtClubaretheorganizing The CAMRisanInternationalSailingFederation(ISAF)provisionalGradeTwoevent. The CAMRisknownforintroducingyoungsailorstothesport,workingwithUSVI Continued frompreviouspage —Continued onnextpage record-breaking Gay Rum! 78 casesofMount amassing atotalof scoop thetopprizes, teams managedto earlier thisyear,three ken. Atthe2015event Race recordsarebro- Rum RoundBarbados the 14MountGay fastest timeifanyof Rum asaprizeforthe weight inMountGay to wintheirskipper’s rum, there’sachance taste forspeed,and The racingand For teamswitha DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 17

JODY SALLONS-DAY

and 100 to 100 to Momo Comanche’s is a three-mast- Rambler , sailed by Peter Adix and Peter , lifted the RORC Sorcha will have hot competition for , Jan-Henrik Kisteit’s , and overall winner of the 2015 Concise 10 . The TP52 Bella Mente set the RORC Caribbean 600 Jethou , had an epic battle last time out and Phaedo3 Lucky . ). All are capable of a blistering pace in Phaedo3 won last year’s 600-mile match race with Tonnerre 4 Highland Fling XI Paradox Rán V Sorcha (ex- , makes up a formidable of early entries for this class . This will be the first occasion that the one-design, round- in IRC Canting Keel class will be Bouwe Bekking’s Dutch Volvo Proteus Varuna VI will be joined by Peter Ogden’s , Jim and Kristy Hinze Clark’s 100-foot, USA-based VPLP/Verdier- Team Brunel and placed second overall. Comanche . One of the largest sailing vessels built since the 1930s, Adix Continued from previous page Continued from The RORC Caribbean 600 has always attracted the majestic classic yachts that fre- Joining the Maxi 72s will be more hot competition from Irving Laidlaw’s Rolex Maxi Visit caribbean600.rorc.org for more information. In 2015, Lloyd Thornburg’s MOD 70, The 2016 RORC Caribbean 600 will be the first four-boat offshore showdown in the Joining For the 2016 edition, registration opens on February 12th with a welcome reception For the 2016 edition, registration opens on February 12th race to Redonda, In addition to the Valentine’s Regatta, a stand-alone passage says, “I extend a very Jolly Harbour Commodore, Grahame Williams, and gusting around Antigua in February is heaven for any sailor, and with shifting , with other partners Sponsored by Pears Point, Mount Gay Rum and Banks Entries can be made at www.regattaguru.com For more information see ad on page 14. Magnificent Fleet Set for 8th RORC Caribbean 600 Ocean Racing Club in The 2016 RORC Caribbean 600, organized by the Royal finest offshore racing The 2016 event has already attracted some of the world’s Shipping straight to the Caribbean from the Rolex Sydney Hobart Race will be The 2016 GSW Notice of Race is now available at grenadasailingweek.com/notice- Notice of Race is now available The 2016 GSW see ad on page 6. For more information Valentine’s Regatta, Antigua Jolly Harbour and it has running of this event in 1993 Yacht Club organized the first Jolly Harbour Tonnerre 4 quent the Caribbean and this year an early entry is the 215-foot (65-metre) schoo- ner conditions and a high-speed match race would be thrilling. Yacht Cup champion, the RP82 Transatlantic Race, Bryon Ehrhart’s RP63, both will be back this year. Multihull Line Honours in Tony Lawson’s MOD 70, Caribbean 600 Trophy in 2015, having scored the best corrected time under IRC. Bella Mente George Sakellaris’s Harrison, and Piet Vroon’s Ker 51, ed schooner, the first such to race with the Royal Ocean Racing Club. record (33 hours, 35 minutes and 30 seconds) and will be returning after racing in the RORC Transatlantic Race in November. Aschenbrenner’s Nigel Irens 63, the-world yacht has taken part in the RORC Caribbean 600. Jens Kellinghusen’s German Ker 56, and more yachts are expected to follow. history of the Maxi 72 Class. Hap Fauth’s JV72, crew is led by Kenny Read, who was on board George David’s set the RORC Caribbean 600 course record (40 hours 20 minutes 02 seconds) in 2011. Ocean 65, and Red Cap party at Jolly Harbour. Three days of racing follow in the beautiful sur- and Red Cap party at Jolly Harbour. Three days of racing roundings of Jolly Harbour Marina and Five Islands peninsular. held on February 16th. The scored separately from the Valentine’s Regatta, will be of the RORC Caribbean 600 Redonda Passage Race is designed to mirror the finish will finish on the south Race, which will start on February 22nd. The passage race coast of Antigua. us at the Valentine’s warm welcome to all the overseas competitors joining seen as one of the pre- Regatta. Over the years the event has grown and is now companies wishing to mier events in the Caribbean. There is also interest from able to support us, as they sponsor our event. I am pleased that Pearns Point was you all have a very are a part of the community in Jolly Harbour. I hope enjoyable time.” is plenty of tactical the bays and islands on the northwest tip of Antigua, there analysis for competitors at the Valentine’s Regatta. Union Bank, including Budget Marine, Regatta guru, Townhouse, Caribbean has daily prizegiving Seahawk Paint and West Point Bar. The Valentine’s Regatta and live music every night. on February 22nd. The non- association with Antigua Yacht Club, will start in Antigua 11 Caribbean islands. stop course of approximately 600 nautical miles encompasses as well as attempts for yachts, promising intense competition for overall honours both monohull and multihull race records. Comanche designed Maxi, the world’s fastest monohull, boasting a 24-hour-record run (2015 Transatlantic Race, 618.01 nautical miles, averaging 25.75 knots). of-race. Visit www.grenadasailingweek.com and sign up for the newsletter. of-race. Visit www.grenadasailingweek.com In recent Day every year since. the weekend closest to Valentine’s been held on yachts from with local entries and has been growing in popularity years the regatta racers, pro- year’s edition, including ocean yachts competed in last overseas. Thirty and . duction cruising yachts, , — DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 18 BlazingForward Belize: ning, Ilovedit.Youlearnhowtobondinagroup.(Onebuilds)socialclosenessfrom Blanca thoughtitsoundedfunandexciting.“Sureenoughwas.Fromthebegin- the SanPedroSailingClubspokeofsailinginstructionopportunitiesatherschool, been math,”Blancasaysofherfavoritesubject.WhenCommodoreAndyMilner mother andfather,attendsSanPedroHighSchool,SecondForm.“Ithasalways National Championship. at thattimeandstillflowsthroughherveinstoday.By2014,she’dwonthe 2012. Blanca’syoungerbrotherKevin,age10,won!Racingenteredblood was highforthefirstBelizeNationalChampionship,whichheldinNovember sailing, thisisimportant. Because revenuefrompublicsailingclassesisafundingmechanismforBelizejunior mance stunnedthesailingworldandpromotedrecreationalinBelize. finished inthetopeightpercentof1,174competingtheirclass.Thisperfor- the top15percentof16,780entrants.TheBelizeanchildrenagedeighttoall gram byBart’sBashCommittee).Inthe2014race,allofBelize’ssailorsfinishedin date sailorstaketotheirhomewatersandsailcoursesdesignedviacomputerpro- national raceforsailorsworldwideandineveryclassofsailboat;onadesignated One answerhasbeentohaveyouthscompetewithinBart’sBash(alegitimateinter- Belize childrenregardlessofeconomicstatusiscallingforcreativityandinnovation. pete intheNationalChampionship,whilekeepingitaffordableandaccessibletoall requirement thatayouthparticipateinallsevenregattasordertoqualifycom- December 2015ISAFYouthWorldChampionshipinMalaysia. to sanctiontheattendanceofBlancaVelasquezandAntonioRicardezJr.at sailing lessonsaffordableandaccessibletoyouth.TheirBoardvotedinSeptember sponsored abasic-levelinstructorcourseinBelize. two boysandgirls,toJuly’sOPTINAMinAntigua.Thatsamemonth,IODA because IODAencouragesgirlstoparticipate,Belizewasablesendfoursailors, and developBelize’sbestjuniorsailors.In2015,qualifyingtrialswereheldand, regattas. ThetimehadcometodevelopaFive-YearOptimistProgramdetermine Additional juniorsailingcentersopenedinPlacenciaandCayeCaulker. ing ordering40moreOptimistsusingIODA’s“6for5”boatpurchasescheme. by abilingualcoachfromPuertoRico.Expansionwasrapid2011to’14,includ- City, CorozalandAmbergrisCaye.IODAprovidedaninstructor-trainingcoursegiven (IODA). Initially,theboatsweredivviedupbetweenSeaScoutsandbasesinBelize 26 Optimists,subsidizedandsourcedbytheInternationalOptimistAssociation local sponsorsandsecuringgovernmenttaxexemptionledtoduty-freepurchaseof Association (BzSA),whichjoinedtheInternationalSailingFederation(ISAF).Finding feasible.” Eighteenmonthslater,successfulplanninghadcreatedanewBelizeSailing Sea Scouts,Ihavebeenaskedtofindoutifajuniorprogramfortheschoolswouldbe instructors, thistraditionisrapidlyfailing.” ly limited,andinspiteofstrenuouseffortsbyregattacommitteesseascout who mustmakealivingatsea,andfinancestimeforrecreationalsailingsevere- Scuttlebutt.com inMarch2006.“Nowwithoutboardmotorsreplacingsailsforthose steady windsandshallowwatersinsidethebarrierreef,”reportedJohnOliveron or fish(orprobablycontraband)weresailedupanddownthecoastinusually country intheISAFYouthSailingWorldChampionship. this monthastheytraveltoMalaysiabethefirstrepresenttheir the normalformatandfeaturetwoBelizianyouthswhomakehistory role inyouthdevelopment.InDecemberwemakeadeparturefrom Blanca isanativeofSanPedro.ShelivesonAmbergrisCayewithherfivesiblings, Blanca Velasquezstartedsailingattenyearsofage.Thenextyear,excitement Favorite boat:Optimist Junior SailingProgram:SanPedroClub Blanca Velasquez,15yearsold Y2A FeaturedYouths The challengeofcontinuingsailingdevelopmentsophistication,forexamplethe Capitalizing ontheprotectedwatersinsideBelizeBarrierReef,BzSAismaking A trailerwasbuiltforboattransportandaracingcircuitgrewfromfivetoseven By 2009,Oliverwaschangingthatlandscape:“Asasailingteacherforgroupof “Belize oncehadastrongcommercialsailingtradition,whenlightersfullofsand Youth2Adult —Y2Aisaseriesofarticlescelebratingsailing’s www.caraibesdiesel.com Email :[email protected] Phone :(+590)590870373 97150 Saint Martin FWI 97150 SaintMartin Chantier NavalGéminga-Marigot SAINT MARTIN -SINTMAARTEN Y2A BYELLENEBERTBIRRELL MARINE ENGINEERINGPARTS ANDLUBRICANTS fourth placefinish,butitrobbedhimofafirstfinishoverall. he jury-riggedhisOptimistafterablockfailedearlyinoneoftheraces,managing races andwasnamedBzSA’sSailoroftheYear.In2014duringChampionship, coming insecondbehindBlanca’sbrother,KevinVelasquez.In2013,hewonmany Belize NationalChampionship fied inhisheattoracethefirst Antonio’s firstregatta.Hequali- have parentalsupport. of tremendouswind.” shine, wind.Theyaren’tafraid dren duringbadweather,sun- out late.Wetrainedthechil- good andsleepgood.Nostaying to beanathlete,youhaveeat I toldmychildren:‘Ifyouwant start withthefamily.Firstthing seemed towork.“You’vegot will trainyourchildren’.”It told, ‘Iwilltrainyouand from FrancisHeusnerbutwas father, noformalcoachingwasavailable.“Heself-taught.Isought ject; sailingandfootball(soccer)hisfavoriteactivities.AccordingtoAntonio’s the beginning.InThirdFormatNazereneHighSchool,physicsishisfavoritesub- sailing —thewind,waves,sunandallthatNaturegivesyou.” about whatyoudo,seehowitcanchangeinlife.Inallofthis,havefunandenjoy toward thosegoals“isallaprocessthattakestimeandeffort.So,ifyou’repassionate despite lossesandfear,thededicationthatcomesfromsettinggoalsworking harder forwhatIwant.”Shecitesconfidencethatcomesfromcontinuingtotry that Iwillnotalwayswinandlosingdoesn’tmakemealoser.Itmakestry To me,beingcompetitivehelpedmeandmotivatedtobebetter.Italsoshowed youth. BlancaaspirestobecomeanOlympicsailor. gram, whichgeneratesrevenuethatsupportsthefreesailingprogramforlocal She isexpectedtowashandmaintaintheboatshelpwithclubrentalpro- washes andsoldraffleticketstoraisemoneyforhercompetitivesailingprogram. Optimist NationalChampionship,takingfourth. — light.” I’m pickedtogotheYouthWorldsinMalaysiawherewindswillbewhatIlike to giveup.Noway!AttheendtheysaidIwasoneofmostimprovedsailors.Now hard. Thewindsweresohigh.I’mlittle.Istruggled.coachesaskedifwanted ISAF YouthWorldsEmergingNationsProgramAdvancedClinic(YW-ENP).“Itwas ects isforcinghertolearntimemanagement. the higherlevelofcompetitionwhilejugglinghomework,studyingandschoolproj- sharing thesameexperiencesandchallengesonwater.”Shefeelsthatracingat Honey CampLagoonwas The childrenwhosucceed The physicsofhowasailperformsinthewindappealedtoAntonioRicardezfrom Favorite boat:HobieCat Junior SailingProgram:BelizeCityClub Antonio Ricardez,15yearsold “I’maverycompetitiveperson.Sometimesthatisgoodbutitcanalsohaveitsbads. When itcomestopitchingin,Blancaindicatesthey’vedonethreefundraisingcar This yearshebegansailingLasersandwasselectedtotravelAntiguaforthe November, sheracedherlast scholarship intheStates.”In able toapplyfora(academic) will giveherishuge.Shebe The contactsandtheresumethis scholarship togoMalaysia. ter. ISAFisgivingherafull she ishandlingheavierwindbet- weight trainingandtechnique, ist tokeepherdietright.”Between well, sheworkswithanutrition- the otherfitnesstraining.As does Crossfittocomplementall and threetimesperweekshe run onthebeachtwiceaweek in boatsfourtimesaweek,we coach, JuanMazzini,“Wetrain According toherArgentinian —Continued onpage54 DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 19 and his friends in Grenada. 39 years earlier, to a celebra- Ned Ned Kelly Don quietly resided on the east coast with Lisa,Don quietly resided on the

where

was duly sold to the son of a friend and he e-mailed me to was duly sold to the son of Ned 2015 Don said a final farewell to 2015 Don said a final farewell

so he reluctantly agreed to return to Australia where he could access First so he reluctantly agreed to The events over the next few months made me realize how many very good friends Don me realize how many very good the next few months made The events over it was clear that Don could not remain aboard With severely restricted movements, On March 24th As the news of Don’s passing spread amongst his cruising friends, inboxes in com- As the news of Don’s passing that the thing he would miss When Don was diagnosed with ALS he confided in me tests confirmed that he was also stricken with ALS. that he was also stricken tests confirmed distant cornershearing the news, people from in his life of sailing. On had accumulated and an informal to ask how they could help each other by e-mail of the world contacted Lovett organized Don’s great friend Craig well over 50 friends was formed. e-mail group of A bank accountALS donation in Don’s name. Challenge” for Don and an an “Ice Bucket not told about it his expenses but he was that friends could help with was opened so bad, his friendswhen his speech got really have objected. Then, because he would Incidentally, to help him express himself. “whizzy new talking computer” bought him a GPS. first person I knew with a handheld gadgetry. He was the Don loved high-tech Ned Kelly World medical care. and “he’s a surfer as well. Perfect!” say the lad liked to sail fast tion party for Don at…. would you believe it…. THE RANCH! Don e-mailed me a few you believe it…. THE RANCH! Don e-mailed me a tion party for Don at…. would andhow wonderful it was, that “Tone wangled me into it” days after the party to say old friends are.” Then, in early April, Craig escorted Don“I’d forgotten how good my from California to “Ostraalya” conveniently, a retired nurse. Ken, his old mate from theiranother old friend and, very him other friends were there to take him out and help days in the Boy Scouts, and as expected, Don gradually lost control of his remain- along. Over the next few months, bad fall and a bout of pneumonia but nothing could stoping muscles. He survived a we it still came as a shock, we were not surprised when the advancing ALS. Although Ken and Carolyn on October 16th to say, “Our dearreceived an e-mail from Tony, and sailed over the horizon for the last time.”friend Captain Don weighed with e-mails all bearing the puters in various corners of the world began filling up and in retrospect I think same simple title: “Captain Don”. It was most extraordinary of appreciation of Don’s we all needed to comfort each other through shared words of the e-mails referred to Don life and our profound love for him. Interestingly, many wrote, “rest in peace beau- as “my beautiful friend” and “my beautiful captain”. Mike people I have known” and Pat tiful man”; Robert wrote, “…one of the few beautiful to consider why there was wrote, “farewell beautiful, dear and true friend.” I paused in the physical sense Don this recurrent theme, this focus on his beauty, because, beautiful. In fact, one dear would be the first to laugh at the notion that he was to more arms and legs than friend humorously described him as “a body attached brought people together and anyone else!” Yet Don really was a beautiful person. He remarked, “He gives one he made people feel good. Indeed, as Kirk, another friend, it up best when he wrote, hope for the human race.” Or maybe Buzz summed they hit the jackpot”. “Whatever the powers were that put Don’s existence together, make us laugh because even most is making people laugh. But Don will always adds to my laughter. And I today when I hear a funny joke I think of him and that so many other reasons we will know his friends all feel the same way. For this and you for being in our lives never forget our beautiful captain, Don Marmo. We thank Don. Fair winds forever; you deserve to cruise in peace. Phil Winters escorted him to California, where he stayed with his old friend Tony.Phil Winters escorted him took place. Tony invited Don’s long-ago friends, manyWhile there, a wonderful event he was building of whom had known Don when

DON STOLLMEYER / INSET: JEFF FISHER

Ned

began. and resided for eight Ned Ned Kelly , in February 2015 Ned Kelly to far-off lands that most sailors can only dream Ned by Donald Stollmeyer by Donald in good condition and to spend time enjoying life with his to Trinidad in Sept 2014 where, almost unbelievably, final Ned and an Incredible Sailor and an Ned Tribute to a Beautiful Friend a Beautiful Friend Tribute to to October 16th, 2015 16th, to October Donald Marmo: April 9th, 1942 April 9th, 1942 Marmo: Donald In early 2014 I e-mailed Don to tell him that Karen, one of our friends in Trinidad, Over the ensuing years our friendship deepened. We saw each other when I visited By the mid 1990s Don and I had become firm friends and what a joy it was to see With his friends, Don sailed and the Cape Verde In 1990 Ned crossed the Atlantic via the Canary Islands Don Marmo’s sailing life began when he was a Boy Scout in Australia and met hisDon Marmo’s sailing life began when he was a Boy Scout Every once in a while, if you are lucky, you will meet a person who is special. I met are lucky, you will meet a person who is special. I met Every once in a while, if you I love people who make me laugh. It cures a multiple of ills. I love people who make important thing in a person. It’s probably the most Don Marmo at the launching of the author’s cat in Trinidad (inset), and on his last Don Marmo at the launching of the author’s cat in Trinidad sail aboard his self-built Crowther Spindrift, had contracted a little-known but awful disease, Amyotrophic Lateral Sclerosis (ALS or Lou Gehrig’s Disease). ALS is a very rare but fatal neurological disease that affects about one in 60,000 people every year, attacking the nerve cells responsible for con- trolling voluntary muscles. It’s strange to now reflect that Don replied to my e-mail with the words, “Oh my God, I looked up ALS and it’s devastating.” When Karen died in April 2014 he wrote me saying, “Thank heavens she went comfortably, it’s all any of us can hope for.” It was only one month after Karen died that Don e-mailed me to say he was having problems swallowing and his speech was becoming slurred. After the initial jokes about the amount of alcohol in his veins objecting to the presence of blood, we realized his condition was in fact very serious. Following initial tests in Grenada, Don sailed the other islands and when he visited Trinidad, and we were in close contact through e-mails that he regularly sent to his many friends all over the world. These e-mails were keenly anticipated because almost always there would include an absolutely classic joke or he would recount some funny incident. In December 2012, when I launched my second (this one took only seven years to build), he again sailed down to Trinidad, this time with our friends Chris Doyle and Jeff Fisher, to attend the launching party and I guess once again, “to make damn sure you finally get it into the sea!” As always, it was a joy to see him. him whenever we met. In December 1996, when I launched the catamaran I had been building for ten long years, Don sailed to Trinidad for the launching ceremony but in his own words, he really came “to make damn sure you finally get it into the sea!” He brought with him a video camera, not all that common in those days, on which he recorded the launching. That video, coupled with Don’s amazing commen- tary, is now one of my treasured possessions. friends. Don was as happy as a clam. Islands, making landfall in St. Maarten. Except for a short sojourn when he took Islands, making landfall in St. Maarten. Except for a short about visiting. In 1977, he sailed across the Pacific from the States to Australia; inabout visiting. In 1977, he sailed across the Pacific from ’78, he sailed via to , where Don registered and , “a piece ofyears; in ’86, upwind from Vanuatu to California via Pacific once again to Australia;cake!”; in ’87 to Costa Rica via Mexico, then across the to Darwin then on to Bali,in ’88 across the top of Australia through the Torres Strait King’s Cup; then off sailingCocos-Keeling and Thailand, where Ned won the famous Egypt, through the Suez Canalacross the Indian Ocean, up the Red Sea to Sudan and Majorca and Gibraltar.into the Med, to Cyprus, Turkey, the Greek Islands, Tunisia, to Rhode Island in 1994, Don remained in the Caribbean, cruising up and down the island chain, taking part in regattas and having friends cruise with him. He kept himself liquid (and in liquid!) by repairing houses and boats, and doing other odd jobs. His desire was simply to earn enough, what he laughingly termed “biscuit” to be able to sail, to keep lifelong friend Ken Conley who introduced him to sailing. Ken described Don at thatlifelong friend Ken Conley who introduced him to sailing. his knobby knees resemblingtime just as we know him today: “A skinny tall Boy Scout, to bigger boats but his pas- buds growing on twigs.” Several years later Don graduated In 1964 he helped hission was for multihulls, admiring their speed and stability. for many years they sailedfriends Ian Eeles and Tony Spooner build a , which and finally to Centralthroughout the South Pacific, up to Hawaii, across to California then went back to CaliforniaAmerica where they sold her in 1973. The young friends at a big old barn called Thewhere Don built a Crowther Spindrift 39-foot catamaran a hammer, I’d never strikeRanch. “I remember they used to call me ‘’. Using 1976 and it was then thatthe same place twice!” The boat was launched in February Don’s wonderful sailing adventures and his life aboard such a person in 1991. He was shy yet he was great fun to be with. He had a certain was shy yet he was great fun to be with. He had a certain such a person in 1991. He portrayed pure wickedness but only in the nicest pos- spark, a little-boyish grin that was a certain goodness of character, a concern for others, sible way. About him there an interest in world affairs and a spirit for adventure. a very keen sense of humor, of a catamaran and he had an intimate knowledge He had built a trimaran and across the world’s oceans and he had an acute multihulls. He had sailed extensively the sailing. Above all, he laughed a lot and he had understanding of the sea and this laugh with him. It wasn’t long before I was calling ability to make other people man “my friend”. — Audrey Hepburn Audrey — DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 20 www.cnmarinas.com/plm — or email [email protected] on +1 Donelan Danny (473)Call 7431 435 — – – – – – – &Nicholsons:Camper by run youamenities marina would from afull-service expect provides the all Marina with Port Louis asafe, secure berth dedicated your stay to enjoyable as making possible. as relaxing and staff well trained Our — unspoilt Caribbean atmosphere. Caribbean unspoilt combination of world-class authentic, facilities an and hereand we at are Marina proud Port Louis of rare our destination; nautical ‘the’ Grenada Caribbean becoming fast is — with atrip to Grenada Add alittle ‘spice’ to your season — Excellent links air Haul-out facilities nearby technical and pool Bar, restaurant swimming and 24 hour security Free broadband Water and electricity

have knowledge local are and unrivalled LOA in feet Daily $/ft/day Weekly $/ft/day Monthly $/ft/day Monthly Weekly $/ft/day Daily $/ft/day LOA in feet pt 0 17 15 $1.48 $1.56 $1.73 up to 100 pt 0$.3$.9$1.13 $1.19 $1.33 up to 60 pt 0$.8$.2$1.43 $1.52 $1.68 up to 80 pt 0$.2$.1$0.96 $1.01 $1.12 up to 40 pt 0$.2$.0$1.04 $1.10 $1.22 up to 50 pt 5$.8$.4$1.25 $1.34 $1.48 up to 65 pt 5$.3$.8$1.31 $1.38 $1.53 up to 75 pt 2$.7$.9$0.73 $0.79 $0.87 up to 32 For yachts above 100 feet LOA, and for bookings of longer periods, periods, oflonger LOA, for feet bookings and above 100 For yachts to yachts staying consecutively for 7 days or 30 days respectively. for 7days 30 or consecutively staying to yachts please contact us for a personalised quote. Multihulls are Multihulls charged quote. usfor apersonalised contact please at 1.5 times the standard rate. Weekly and monthly rates apply monthly and rate. Weekly standard the times at 1.5 New rates: to 2015 31May 1December 2016 DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 21

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DESTINATIONS e-mail: [email protected] Stainless Fasteners Stainless Fittings VHF Radios Flares & Life Jackets Snorkeling Equipment Fishing Gear Pick settled weather and hone your eyeball navigation. On the reef-protected windward coast of Martinique, there are dozens of ‘off the beaten path’ anchorages to explore Fax: (758) 452 0311 FOR YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, AND MORE YOUR MARINE HARDWARE, FOR Cruising Guide to Johnson Hardware Ltd. Chain & Rope & Fenders Electric Wire Marine Hoses Bilge Pumps Lubricants & Oils

Tel: (758) 452 0299 Tel:

by Don Street

. It is in French, but with even a smattering of French you will find it . It is in French, but with even a smattering of French

OF MARTINIQUE OF Visit Don Street’s website at www.street-iolaire.com Then head on to Baie du Trésor (Treasure Cove) or Cul de Sac on the Proceeding north, there are half a dozen coves to explore by dinghy or shoal- Proceeding north, there are half a dozen coves to explore François’ channel is well buoyed but zigzags, so it requires eyeball navigation François’ channel is well buoyed but zigzags, so it requires Have on board Imray Iolaire A301, the detailed chart of the south and east Have on board Imray Iolaire A301, the detailed chart the well-buoyed Passe du After a day or so, head seven miles north through From Rodney Bay, St. Lucia to Ste. Anne in Martinique is a day sail. Time your From Rodney Bay, St. Lucia to Ste. Anne in Martinique anchor. Then get in the First stop, Ile Hardy: tuck up behind the island and Nothing much has changed on the east coast of Martinique in recent years: no Nothing much has changed As you can see on Imray Iolaire chart A301, there are dozens of anchorages in As you can see on Imray Iolaire My wife, Trich, loves the east coast of Martinique, as she does not like early My wife, Trich, loves the east The ARC has arrived in St. Lucia and sailors will be entertained with a series of The ARC has arrived in St. THE EAST COAST COAST EAST THE

Rodney Bay, St. Lucia

Caravelle peninsula, a hideout for pirates right up to the early 19th century. draft boat before reaching Robert. In Robert, look at the chart: there are too many draft boat before reaching Robert. In Robert, look at the When the time comes to eat possible quiet anchorages to list here; just go explore! and dinghy ashore to the ashore again and re-supply the larder, anchor off Robert small marina (built for power boats and multihulls). Within walking distance you will find many good restaurants. with a crewmember standing on top of the bow pulpit. Anchor behind Gros Ilet with a crewmember standing on top of the bow pulpit. you will not find much of and take the dinghy to where the chart shows “YC” and a yacht club, but an excellent restaurant. coasts of Martinique. If it is unavailable, buy the equivalent French chart. (The coasts of Martinique. If it is unavailable, buy the equivalent chart is the same, but the information on the Imray Iolaire chart and the French to Trinidad guide (avail- Imray Iolaire chart is waterproof.) Back up my Martinique superb able via iUniverse.com or ) with Jerome Noel’s breaking down the Atlantic Vauclin. The offshore reef extends 13 miles north, from Vauclin there are swell. Skip Vauclin, which has no decent harbour. North navigators to explore before four anchorages for adventurous and experienced reef reaching François. departure to pick up the first of the weather-going tide as you clear Pigeon Island. departure to pick up the first of the weather-going tide and the marinas often are Do not go into Marin: the anchorage is usually crowded do your entry. Then take full. Anchor in Ste. Anne, take the dinghy into Marin and in Doyle’s guide) to the dinghy up the small river in the mangroves (well described and bread and Dutch the supermarket to load up with good French wine, cheese the St. Lucia brew!) Heineken. (I find the Dutch Heineken much better than extends three miles to the dinghy and explore the shoal water inside the reef that The area is perfect for wind- north, the Martinique equivalent of the Tobago Cays. surfing, kite surfing, stand-up paddleboarding and snorkelling. big marinas or haul-out facilities have been built. However, roads have been have been built. However, roads have been big marinas or haul-out facilities influx of seaweed encoun- improved and local reports indicate that the massive There are small, shallow tered earlier this year has been considerably reduced. you can leave your dinghy. marinas in the towns of François and Robert where be reached by a ten-minute The Giant supermarkets in François and Robert can island, the east coast has taxi ride. And, unlike the south and west coasts of the are prices that the few foreign tourists, so the prices in the restaurants Martiniquais are willing to pay. Martinique Iolaire chart, check www. is a worthwhile investment. Read the back of the Imray — don’t depend on elec- imray.com for corrections, and use eyeball navigation coast of Martinique with tronics. If this is done, you will be able to cruise the east no problems. coves and to leeward of islands. From Passe du Vauclin for 13 miles the Atlantic From Passe du Vauclin for 13 miles the Atlantic coves and to leeward of islands. barrier reef, and harbour entrances are also well swell is broken by a well-buoyed best-buoyed and best-charted island in the Eastern buoyed. Martinique is the back in the late 1850s, when they also built the Caribbean. The French started The light on the Caravelle peninsula was estab- graving dock in Fort de France. lished in 1862. morning departures. The harbour entrances lie on an approximate east-west axis, entrances lie on an approximate east-west axis, morning departures. The harbour harbour until the sun is high, about 1100 hours, and so you should not leave the next harbour by 1400 before the sun gets low. This you should be entering the and a swim before hoisting the anchor, and the gives time for a leisurely breakfast another swim before sundowners. The harbours are anchor is down in time for it possible. close enough together to make parties and expeditions. Then where do you go cruising, north or south? I advise where do you go cruising, north or south? I advise parties and expeditions. Then coast of Martinique. After 60 years in the Eastern heading north to the east favourite uncrowded cruising ground. Caribbean, it’s the Street family’s DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 22 A nighttoremember:transitingtheGatúnLocks taxi tothemainlandtownofAlmirante.Fromthere,we Bocas Marina&YachtClubandhoppedonawater Toro, Panama,whereweleftourtrimaran, tastic opportunity. our lives.Ofcoursewesaid,“Yes!”Thiswasafan- what wouldbeoneofthemostmemorabletimes catamaran, foralmosttwoweeksthispastMarch to jointhemaboard A ‘FRENCHCONNECTION’ Our PanamaCanaladventurebeganinBocasdel Our FrenchfriendsVirginieandNicolasinvitedus Our FrenchConnectionOpportunity PANAMA CANALTRANSIT

DESTINATIONS S/V Phileas , theirLagoon45 by BillandJoAnneHarris Ultra, at stop, wetookataxitomakeourFrenchConnection was knownforitsArctictemperatures.Fromthebus comfort; wehadbeenwarnedthatthebottomlevel #1 and#2.Theseprovidedagreatviewbetter since ourticketswerefortheupstairsfront-rowseats: to PanamaCity.Itwasanextremelycomfortabletrip, were ontheearlymorningbusforeight-hourride Repair Shop).Thenextmorning,Bill’sbirthday,we Perkins enginerebuildatGrupoVargas-Matamoros stayed thereonenight(tocheckthestatusof boarded adouble-deckerbustothecityofDavid.We Ultra’s

around 8:00 the anchorandwereunderwayforfirstlock.At Odyssey) andat10:30 on eachside(bothparticipantsintheBluePlanet five minuteslater, 30 metresfromtheCaribbeantoLakeGatún.Forty- Gatún Locks,whichraisePacific-boundvesselsnearly 11:35 lights oftheCanal,weexitedGatúnLocksat the decksduringsmoothlate-nightpassage. a deliciouslyfancyFrenchdessertasweloungedon dlers weredoingtheirjobswell.Virginieservedusall pro. Ascrew,wemadesurethemonohulllinehan- is anexcellentcaptainandnavigatedthelockslikea balls inthepristinefreshwaterofLakeGatún. to allowustieuponeofthetwogiganticmooring ing theyachtthroughCanal.Ataround1:00 captain’s orientationaboutwhattoexpectwhentak- and areleaking. major issueswiththegates:theydonotcloseproperly tons. Currently,thewordonwateristhereare depending ontheirlocation.Theheaviestweighs662 seven feetthick,andrangefrom47to82high, sets ofgiganticlockgatesthatare65feetwideand expansion projectandtheinstallationofeightnew the US$5.25billioncombinedPanama-Chinacanal through itannually.Whileinthearea,wewitnessed seven daysaweek,andover14,000vesselspass Engineers. Itis48mileslong,runs24hoursaday, World namedbytheAmericanSocietyofCivil last year,isoneoftheSevenWondersModern and therelativewhosenameisengraveduponit. and additionalinformationregardingthemedallion the PanamaCanalSocietyandreceivedcertificates surprise forBillandhisson,David,JoAnnecontacted relative byPresidentRoosevelt.Severalyearsago,asa Canal andhehasamedallionthatwasissuedtohis Bill’s familymembershelpedtobuildthePanama tacular PanamaCanaladventuretogether!Oneof in FrenchPolynesia. together. Itwillbeoverayearbeforewevisitthem minute errands,andmostofallsavoringourtime sioning, doinggeneralboatprojects,helpingrunlast- activities suchasfindingspaceforalloftheirprovi- next weekaboard,assistingwiththelast-minute for thelongpassagetoSouthPacific.Wespent ter, Athénaïs,wereinthemidstofpreparing with ready forthelongnightahead. decided totakeanap,sowewouldbewideawakeand and weretoldthatourtransitwouldbedelayed.Weall Authority toadvisethecaptainduringpassage) a TransitAdvisorappointedbythePanamaCanal Panama CanalAdvisor(eachvesselisrequiredtohave French lunch.Afterlunch,wewerecontactedbythe called TheFlats,whereVirginiepreparedafantastic set outforthecanal-transitstaginganchoragearea Under thethree-quartermoonandbrightgolden On themorningofMarch29th,Nicolasgaveusa The PanamaCanalTransit The Canal,whichcelebrateditshundredthbirthday We wereallexcitedaboutexperiencingthisspec- Virginie, Nicolasandtheirson,Oscar,daugh- At 6:45 Phileas PM . Wedisengaged PM theadvisorarrivedat atShelterBayMarina. PM wearrivedatthefirstofthree Phileas PM Phileas weenteredthelocks.Nicolas wasflankedwithamonohull —Continued onnextpage fromthetwomonohulls Phileas , wehoisted Phileas PM

, we

DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 23 and before our return to Bocas del Toro, we return to Bocas del Toro, and before our Phileas While in Panama City, you must stroll the walkway along Panama Bay and visit While in Panama City, you must stroll the walkway for more information on Visit www.noonsite.com/Members/sue/R2012-03-14-3 both hold 100-ton USCG JoAnne and Bill Harris are from Clear Lake, Texas and Panama City, Revisited Panama City, “bon voyage” to After wishing unbelievable transformation, and is an incredibly mod- Panama has undergone an the newly restored buildings of Casco Viejo (the old city center and a UNESCO World the newly restored buildings of Casco Viejo (the old city Panamanian costumed Heritage Site), visit the fish market, and attend a traditional Panama, a combination of dance show while you sip the national , Chichita grapefruit and pineapple Seco Herrerano ( triple-distilled from ), malls for endless shop- juice, and honey. Also, be sure not to miss the unforgettable ping opportunities. transiting the Panama Canal. and sharing their experiences. Master Licenses. They enjoy writing cruising articles their sailing adventures. Visit www.jandbyachtultraadventure.blogspot.com to follow took the bus to Panama City. This was JoAnne’s second visit, and Bill’s first; we JoAnne’s second visit, and to Panama City. This was took the bus years before the in 1998 and ’99, a few the city together. Back wanted to explore frequently Panama, JoAnne visited Panama turned the Canal over to United States she was shown gas company. While there, for a Texas-based oil and while working vibrant culture, Panama had to offer: the counterparts all that by her Panamanian our recent Canal, and more. During including the Panama the famous landmarks business with JoAnne’s Panamanian the great opportunity to reunite stay, we had all these years. them to give us a tour after quite an experience for contacts. It was ago are night and day! Our photos from 20 years high-rises, amazing architecture, and countless corpo- ern city. It is full of beautiful of islands (Naos, Culebra, Perico and Flamenco) rations. Furthermore, a chain to the Canal that was used as a US military base located near the Pacific entrance via the Amador Causeway. An extremely popular tour- is now accessible to everyone restaurants and hotels, plus the Biomuseo, La Playita ist playground, it is full of the Yacht Club & Marina, recently the venue for Resort & Marina and the Flamenco a Show. Nearby is the Balboa Yacht Club, which has second annual Panama Boat and slips available. limited number of moorings Clockwise from left below: An old Navy carries away extra fenders and lines. old Navy launch carries away extra fenders and lines. Clockwise from left below: An to Nicolas, JoAnne and Bill. After bidding adieu The crew: Oscar, Virginie, Athénaïs, enjoy the culture of Panama City their friends, JoAnne and Bill for the night. for the night. Phileas , our AM we entered PM , we passed under PM , to our surprise, Roy , we anchored outside of La Playita Marina. The dinghy fee is good for , we anchored outside of La Playita Marina. The dinghy AM PM , and at 2:00 Continued from previous page Continued from At 5:00 Soon an old Navy motor launch, complete with diesel inboard and tiller steering, Soon an old Navy motor launch, complete with diesel Upon the approach to the final set The monohulls arrived a little later, and rafted to each side of arrived a little later, and The monohulls The next morning at 6:30 At 7:15 seven days, but was US$43 per person! And note: the seven-day period begins on a seven days, but was US$43 per person! And note: the you will be charged for Monday and ends on a Sunday; if you show up on Sunday, a full week. arrived to collect the four 70-foot dock lines and eight large ball fenders that are arrived to collect the four 70-foot dock lines and eight may supply your own or you mandatory to pass through the Panama Canal. (You can rent them.) the Bridge of the Americas and into the wide-open Pacific Ocean! of locks, Miraflores, once again the monohulls arrived and rafted up to Phileas stated we that had arrived three hours too early to enter the next locks, at Pedro Miguel, so we tied to one of two mooring buoys to wait our turn. them. At 3:50 — The Advisor, Francisco, did not spend the night aboard and had a water taxi take night aboard and had Francisco, did not spend the The Advisor, wine and head- with a glass of French red At midnight, we all toasted him to shore. the jungle filled sounds of the creatures in a magical night, as the ed to bed. It was the air. new Advisor, Roy, arrived wearing a bright blue Captain America T-shirt for a great French breakfast. Fifteen minutes later we fired up the engines, untied from the mooring and the monohulls, and we were on the move again. We cruised at eight knots for approximately three hours through the breathtakingly beauti- ful Lake Gatún. It is a wildlife watchers’ paradise! DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 24 cement blockandlocallycutstonewithmetalroofs. greeted uswithsleepyeyesanddociletempers. Donkeys, goats,pigs,horses,cowsandislanddogs a smileandpolite“bonjour”witheveryonewepassed. the villagealonghard-packeddirtpaths,weexchanged skillful menwithprimitivetools.Meanderingthrough ance onwater—thatarestillchoppedoutoflogsby ubiquitous dugoutcanoes—man’searliestconvey- istheonlyauxiliarypower. in mostconditionsusingaspritmainsailandjib.An but solidandwellproportionedappeartosail frames arecutwithamacheteandaxe.Theycrude function andtheshapesofcrooksfromwhich hasevolvedoverthecenturiesthroughform, sel andrepairinganoldone.Thedesignofthese boat builderswhowereshapingtimbersforanewves- and acaulker’smalletledusdownthebeachtothree main islandtothenorth.Soundsofwoodchopping waters betweenIle-à-Vacheandthemountainous cloth setoncrookedsparsforadayoffishinginthe anchor whileotherssailedoffwithapatchworkof wooden sloopsrangingfrom18to30feetlonglayat Haitian village. us, webecameacquaintedwiththispurelyauthentic entourage ofcuriousbutrespectfullocalladstoguide mango- andseagrape-shadedtrailswiththeusual ing infusion.Walkingthewaterfrontalongpalm-, peaceful, naturalquietgreetsthevisitorlikeacalm- even ruralareasofmostFirstWorldnations,the Without theambientnoisethatissubtlypervasivein matter allofIle-à-Vache,hasnocarsorelectricity. November issuesof Vache. [ aboard amotorbikeenroutetothebusstop Top right:Theauthor’swife,Pam, “bonjour” witheveryonewepassed’ dugout canoes…weexchangedasmileandpolite Right: ‘Scatteredalongtheshoreareubiquitous A Haitian housesaresmallandwellbuiltofwood, Scattered alongthesandandmangroveshoreare A dozenormorehandcrafted,colorfullypainted Like manyHaitianvillages,KaiKoq,andforthat See PartsOneandTwointheOctober the 50-footschooner, Martha’s Vineyard,Massachusettsaboard fter aNovember2014departurefrom stop inBermuda,wemadelandfallatIle-à- Compass.] —Continued onnextpage Charlotte , andapit TO HAITI PASSAGE Friends Making Part Three: by NatBenjamin DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 25 —Continued on next page We loaded our offerings onto wagons, which we offerings onto wagons, We loaded our open market randomly spread upon the unsheltered randomly spread upon the open market on a along the waterfront — shopping mud streets recommended. rainy day not area for a hill past a shaded parking pushed up the and through carrying market produce, dozen donkeys by Sister orphanage. Founded in 1968 the gate to the extraordinary Canadian Catholic, this Flora, a French for the ben- a paradigm of success facility has become Haitian orphaned and handicapped efit of countless by government and private children. Unreliably funded continues to struggle to organizations, Sister Flora make ends meet. Below: The market at Madame Bernard, Below: The market at Madame ‘randomly spread upon the unsheltered streets’ ‘randomly spread upon the Left: ‘Santa Claus’ gives Christmas gifts at Sister Left: ‘Santa Claus’ gives Christmas handicapped children Flora’s home for orphaned and Bernard, capital of Ile-à-Vache. This bustling harbor of Ile-à-Vache. This bustling Bernard, capital teeming with reefs and shoal water was surrounded by cargo sloops forms. Burdened 45-foot activity in many ports off- Les Cayes and other Haitian arriving from or directly on dilapidated piers loaded their contents deep on the fishermen standing waist on shore while about a nets in unison, excited reef hauled heavy is chaotic Unlike Kai Koq, this port bountiful catch. a sprawling projects underway and with construction makeshift cargo space and loading them Charlotte’s Continued from previous page Continued from By 0800, Ian, Zoli, Sam and I were dragging piles of Back aboard at dusk, we saw a yellow dugout was Back aboard at dusk, we Separate wooden kitchen structures contain cleverly kitchen structures contain Separate wooden into a 25-foot utility vessel owned by Sister Flora’s into a 25-foot utility vessel owned by Sister Flora’s orphanage. The sputtering Yamaha outboard pushed us out of Port Morgan and along the north coast sev- eral miles to the east to a town named Madame vacuum-packaged clothing and other stowed items out vacuum-packaged clothing and other stowed items out of heading our way with a smiling Haitian maneuvering heading our way with a smiling in one hand and talking his craft with a palm branch — a confluence of mil- on his cell phone in the other lennia. It’s Sam in the canoe. At 28 years old, Sam Alteme, like most of his generation, is looking for a less laborious life than his parents had. He’s a good-look- ing guy with a pleasant smile, fluent command of English and an entrepreneurial spirit that comple- ments his helpful friendly nature. After nearly a year of correspondence, it’s a pleasure to meet and talk with him about the challenging issues that loom over a nation still recovering from the cataclysmic earth- quake of 2010. Two of my crew, Brad and Malcolm, had to return to the snowdrifts of New England so Sam arranged for an escort to get them safely to Port-au- Prince, departing the following morning. crafted re-bar potholders over fire pits where home- potholders over fire pits crafted re-bar quantity burns in carefully measured made charcoal and small yards contain fruit trees for cooking. The washing chickens clucking and ladies gardens with clean and laundry in plastic tubs. Swept children and — no clut- only the essentials for living neat, there are ter of “stuff”. — DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 26 from whichtheframesarecutwithamacheteandaxe’ ‘The designsofthesesloopshasevolvedoverthecenturiesthroughform,functionandshapescrooks orphanage’s abbey. about tobeginandwewereusheredseatsinthe staff wascutshortasthepre-ChristmasMass a bigdifferenceinHaiti.Ourmeetingwiththedevoted them wheelchairbound.Itdoesnottakealottomake received anddispersedamongthe78residents,26of — Our donationsfromtheVineyardweregratefully Continued frompreviouspage excessively, Huguette,alovelyyoungHaitianwoman the priestlyramblingsseemedtobedroningon for thechildrenwithusincongregation.Whenever began theservicewithpraiseinpatoisandblessings Christmas decorationsandablackNativityscene, accoutrement, surroundedbyshimmeringsynthetic white robesandseasonallyappropriateliturgical Two distinguishedHaitianpriestsattiredinflowing chores aboard wonders ofHaiticontinuedtounfold. and soda.Itwastimeforthefeasttobegin cabbage, plantain,aChristmascakeandcasesofbeer room, piledhighwithrice,beans,friedchicken,grated ence, twolargetableswererolledintothebackof visitors fromafar. immeasurable gifttotheHaitianchildrenand their breasts.Thankyou,SisterFlora,foryour with gratitudeclutchingatoyorstuffedanimalto not totearthepreciouspaper,andthenbeamed patiently openedtheiryearlygifts,takinggreatcare them onourlaps—watchedastheycarefullyand I, sittinginthemidstofthesekids—withsome ages waitingforthesignaltounwrap.Zoli,Ianand each childuntilallwerequietlyclutchingtheirpack- the servicewasover.Asmallpresentgivento an indicationtotherestofusthatformalpart shoulder, tosquealsofdelightfromthechildrenand ringing abellandcarryinglargesackoverhis Claus costumecameboundingthroughthedoor cap. dressed inapea-greenleisuresuitandwhitegolf timonious remarksfromaportlylocaldignitary entertainment, occasionallyinterruptedbythesanc- an hourandahalfduringthispleasantlyconfusing check andthecongregationengagedawakefor ols, includingJingleBells.Thiskepttheclergyin song andleadusallinjoyfulCreoleChristmascar- who wasraisedintheorphanage,wouldbreakinto leaving Ianand for workandChristmasholidayswithourfamilies, sessions orconflictingschedules. without theoverwhelmingdistractionofexcessivepos- their homelifeandsharedvaluessosimilartoourown Sam andhisextendedfamilygaveusacloselookinto many ofthelocalpersonalities.ASundaydinnerwith to findourflighthome. island andthenontoPort-au-Princewherewehoped escort usacrossthesoundtoLesCayesonmain cally clutchingtheiroffspringandSamaboardto Charlotte such ascompassorlifejackets)camealongside (narrow, wetandtippywithoutthebasicequipment water taxi,anoutboard-poweredpiroguetypeofvessel We spentthenextfewdaysinPortMorgandoing Before wehadbeguntoprocessthiscatharticexperi- Suddenly, aperspiringFrenchmaninfullSanta At last,ZoliandIhadtoreturnMartha’sVineyard at 0500withadozenormoreHaitiansstoi- Charlotte Charlotte to lookaftereachother.The and makingfriendswith —Continued onnextpage DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 27 , Fajardo at and Wi-Fi Convenience Store Elegant Restaurants such as El Conquistador Hotel and Casino Located 1/2 mile Away by Dinghy • Complimentary Cable TV • Water and Electricity • Restrooms and Showers • Laundry Facilities • Nearby 's Chandlery and • Near Small Eateries and Upscale • US Custom and Immigration • Ample Parking

TIES www.sunbaymarina.com he grinned, opened his weathered, cal- Join us today

AMENI

and be part of our family. our webpage VISIT US! When I enthusiastically recounted this story to Sam A short distance away, however, a family farm looked A short distance away, however, Nat Benjamin is a partner in Gannon & Benjamin 787.863.0313 787.863.5282 [email protected] ¡ loused hand and proudly showed me a piece of broken loused hand and proudly showed me a piece of broken glass that served as his tool. the next morning, he calmly gazed at me and said, “Yes, that’s Haiti”. guide, we headed east from Akaba Beach in search of in search of east from Akaba Beach guide, we headed noticed with village that I had a small fishing/farming and Ian had when we first arrived. Bo the binoculars their surfing this hamlet on one of also been near could find it and they agreed that we expeditions, along shore or boat. We wove our way without donkey mile-long then past a spectacular and inland trails on through lone bull in residence and beach with a a high bluff until we finally saw from fields and valley This pictur- in the distance. our desired destination rising from charcoal esque encampment with smoke local sloops rocking at fires and a fleet of lovely was as alluring as it was anchor in a crescent cove fading daylight. I knew unattainable given the rapidly to reach the village on we couldn’t achieve our goal this day. children scurrying about inviting with adults and which was simmering on doing chores before dinner, we approached this bucol- the outdoor kitchen fire. As greeted us with welcome ic homestead the occupants and laughter, which we curiosity as well as smiles sons and, I surmise, returned. Strong, fit young working in the gardens extended family members were fields to the east while the and tending livestock in the functions of the com- women cared for the domestic against the dimming pound. Silhouetted on a knoll man whom I presumed to western sky stood an older Looking like an Old be the patriarch of the clan. his people, he held a Testament prophet commanding newly crafted oar in his left hand while he finished I shaping the shaft with a tool grasped in his right. walked over to see what sort of plane or spoke shave he was using on this well proportioned and properly tapered auxiliary power for his boat. He must have sensed my intentions and before I finished wishing him “bonsoir”, Marine Railway (http://gannonandbenjamin.com) a small but flourishing boatyard in New England whose mission and passion is designing, building, repairing, maintaining and sailing wooden boats. Pam Benjamin teaches at Sense of Wonder Creations; visit http:// senseofwondercreations.org/for more information. open 7 days a week from 8:00 am to 4:00 pm of SSCA Delivered on all Slips except on Dock “A” is our Primary Concern 24 Hour Security DIFFERENCE IS • 282 Fixed Slips • Wide Concrete Finger Piers • On-Site Fuel Dock and Diesel • Safety, Cleanliness and Service • Whole Area Patrolled by • Camera Surveillance • Official Cruising Station F: T: E: Parcelas Beltrán, Bo. Sardinera, Fajardo, Puerto Rico

THE Sister Flora with one of her charges. She operates an orphanage, a school and a hospital on Ile-à-Vache: good reasons to bring some extra love when you visit what we do and the way we do it. we do it. what we do and the waywhat we do and the way Close to: By late afternoon, we were all ready to take the Hiking on Ile-à-Vache is the best way to get around 20-minute hike to Akaba Beach for a long swim and to 20-minute hike to Akaba Beach for a long swim and to enjoy the sunset by the conveniently situated epony- mous hotel where cold drinks and intermittent inter- net service were available. unless you have a donkey at your disposal. This suits our peripatetic nature and Pam and I had some won- derful excursions through the hilly countryside. One afternoon, with some help from an 11-year-old local dren’s most basic needs. This assignment was emo- needs. This assignment dren’s most basic of handi- given the large number tionally challenging and the minimal staff. capped students bearing gifts to Charlotte, Continued from previous page Continued from On New Year’s Eve, Roberta Kirn and Boyd Petersen On New Year’s Eve, Roberta Pam and Roberta would be off to the village with Two days after Christmas, Pam and I returned to Ile- Two days after Christmas, After some diplomacy, Sam had us all aboard for the Sam had us all aboard After some diplomacy, In pre-dawn haze our trusty transport nosed into a haze our trusty transport nosed In pre-dawn flew in to join us aboard energy and expertise to share with the children at the community center. Pam nurtured the naturally tal- ented kids in drawing, understanding primary colors, perspective and shading. This activity dovetails nicely with the outreach mission of her non-profit organiza- tion: Sense of Wonder Creations, which, through the creative arts, explores environmental and ethnic diver- sity, community service, leadership and how each one can make a difference. The youngsters were always receptive and thankful. Roberta would share songs from Kenya, where she also travels, and she enjoyed learning the local Creole folk ballads of Haiti. Commuting to the orphanage required a two-hour trek each way and the work involved caring for the chil- à-Vache, carrying duffel bags stuffed with art supplies, à-Vache, carrying duffel bags in cash raised for the more clothing and US$8,000 greeted us warmly and orphanage. Sister Flora our arrival was since she explained how auspicious payroll to her staff. was unable to make the monthly (450 students) and hos- We also learned of the school continues to manage. pital that she founded and center in Kai Koq. capacity for the local community and would stay Boyd signed on as a crewmember aboard for the rest of the winter, voyaging to Jamaica and Cuba later in January and then sailing home to Massachusetts in April. Roberta’s specialty is connect- ing with children through song — our universal (one verse) language. three-and-a-half-hour bus journey. When our bus bus journey. When three-and-a-half-hour post-earthquake Port au lurched into the heart of consequences of a Prince, we witnessed the shocking by most of the “devel- nation exploited and abandoned our bus onto the train oped” world. Discharged from farewells to our fellow wreck of the city, we exchanged pleasantries, smiles and travelers with a round of in a dilapidated cab and promises to return; hopped to another world. headed to the airport. And, mangrove-bordered dumpsite replete with snorting dumpsite replete mangrove-bordered negotiating loads of city garbage. After pigs and fresh backs of wait- landfill, we hopped on the the municipal route to the and sped through town en ing motorbikes scampering dogs and small children bus stop, dodging holed streets along the way. across the pot — DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 28 M/V Nalu celebrates thethemeof‘ChristmasAroundWorld’inSanJuanChristmasBoatParade2014 HOLIDAY HAPPENINGS

IN THECARIBBEAN CLUB NAUTICO DE SAN JUAN SAN DE NAUTICO CLUB Christmas Carols. ing of duct massesheldatdawnfeaturingthesing- December 15ththrough24th,churchescon- supposedly takingpeoplebysurprise.From bringing musicfromonehousetoanother, parrandas, early inDecemberandincludethetraditional January 1stasthesunrises. Day festivities,you’llhaveanotherchanceon “scratch band”music.IfyoumisstheBoxing until dawnwithcostumedparadesand brated onDecember26thfromabout2:00 slave tradercalled“JohnCanoe”—iscele- slavery, namedaftera17thcenturyAfrican carnival-type celebrationoffreedomfrom wherever youare. events regionwide,soaskaroundlocally holiday happenings.Therearemanymore a festiveadditiontotheDecembercalendar. and inmanyplaceslightedboatparadesare brating theirannualcarnivalsinDecember, places. Afewislandsaddtothefunbycele- (December 26th)arepublicholidaysinmany tors. ChristmasDayandBoxing offer specialChristmasDaymenusforvisi- Day isfamilytime,whileseveralrestaurants on ChristmasEve.Formostlocals, Day. Manyshopsopenlateintotheevening on December24thandagainChristmas year. Mostchurchesholdmidnightservices religion, soChristmasisahighlightofthe like roselleplant. drink madefromthesepalsofhibiscus- made gingerbeerorbrightred“sorrel”,a ponche decrème(similartoeggnog),home- Refresh yourselfwithguavaberryliqueur, a traditionalholidayfruitcakesoakedinrum. chance toenjoytherichflavorof“blackcake”, decorated asChristmastrees.Don’tmissthe Christmas carolsandtropicalshrubsare grow infrontgardens,steelbandsplay Christmas celebrationsinPuertoRicobegin Puerto Rico Throughout theBahamas,Junkanoo—a Bahamas Here isjustasmallselectionofDecember’s Christianity istheCaribbean’sdominant Welcome totheregionwherepoinsettias aguinaldos whicharefamiliesandfriends , thePuertoRicanversionsof —Continued onnextpage AM

DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 29

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, a live “fungi” band, and artist Aragorn Dick-Read’s famous Fire Dick-Read’s famous Fire band, and artist Aragorn , a live “fungi” The New York Times till 11:00 PM Drop Anchor and Escape Anchor Drop • St. Croix’s Crucian Christmas Carnival will run from December 24th through will run from December Christmas Carnival • St. Croix’s Crucian for more information. Visit www.stcroixtourism.com/christmas_festival.htm Tortola, BVI stilt-walking Eve festival, with dancers, Bay for the New Year’s Anchor at Trellis Visit www.bareboatsbvi.com/beef-island/new-years-eve-party.php Jost Van Dyke, BVI two straight days and nights, then sleep it off on Anchor in the bay, party for St. Maarten/St. Martin Antilles have a unique Christmas celebration that The islands of the Netherlands St. Kitts & Nevis The St. Kitts & Nevis For more information Antigua • Named in January 2nd. moko jumbies the sea, where sculptures on mounts in this night, he places the Sculptures. On fireworks. against a backdrop of with firewood and set ablaze they are fueled for more information. sums up the annual December 30th and 31st Old the beach. That pretty much recommends: “If attending the Old Year’s Party at Foxy’s. Bareboatsbvi.com Jost Van Dyke, I highly recommend you take a lock Year’s Eve celebrations on Almost all dinghies look alike and there are often and chain for your dinghy. Harbour on New Year’s Eve.” hundreds of them in Great with visits from Sinterklaas and his mysterious min- comes straight from Holland, ions, the Zwarte Piet (Black Petes). On the French side of St. Martin, don’t miss a visit to the amazing display of Santa Claus’s house, a private home situated in Cripple Gate that is fabulously decorated for the season, open every day until January 15th from 6:00 Carnival 2015 runs Carnival 2015 runs throughout December and culminates on January 9th. The Carnival celebrates local culture with street parties, per- formances and musical competitions. visit www.stkittsneviscarnival.com. world,” the Nelson’s Dockyard Champagne Christmas Party on December 25th has world,” the Nelson’s Dockyard Champagne Christmas has been organizing become a major annual tradition. The Hourglass Foundation Party for over 25 years. the “Round the Capstans” Christmas Day Champagne

ST. LUCIA MIRROR , do not miss Seaborne Airlines PM . Last year, 42 boats participated. Visiting yachts are . Last year, 42 boats participated. Visiting yachts are PM The island of Saint Lucia was made for seafaring – or perhaps it’s the other way around. The prevailing The island of Saint Lucia was made for seafaring – or perhaps it’s breathtak- Saint Lucia’s it’s warm and soothing northeast trade winds provide ideal sailing conditions. Yet, ing scenery that attracts the finest yachts from around the world. Drop anchor near the majestic peaks of Petit and Gros Piton. Rodney Bay invites a night on the town. Or choose Marigot Bay for a chic excursion. Must-see dive spots abound, and there are plenty of hidden bays where you’ll create your own Caribbean mystique. Of course, no getaway would be complete without exploring the luxurious side of Saint Lucia through its restaurants, shopping, and resorts. Immerse yourself in a luxe yachting adventure in simply beautiful Saint Lucia. Homemade lanterns Homemade lanterns in St. Lucia Continued from previous page Continued from previous page Visit www.christmasparadestcroix.com for more information. • Club Náutico de San Juan celebrates its Christmas Boat Parade 2015 on celebrates its Christmas Boat Parade 2015 on • Club Náutico de San Juan For more information call (340) 776-0100. St. Croix, USVI festivities will begin at • On December 12th, the annual St. Croix Boat Parade St. Thomas, USVI Amalie waterfront • Join the St. Thomas Lighted Boat Parade along the Charlotte Visit www.nauticodesanjuan.com for more information and to download a parade Visit www.nauticodesanjuan.com for more information fly-over of Christiansted Harbor to launch the parade. The parade will start at 6:00 fly-over of Christiansted Harbor to launch the parade. of the biggest boat parades and end with a fireworks display. This has become one in the Caribbean. December 12th at 6:00 — noon along the Christiansted boardwalk. At 5:30 on December 18th. Enjoy an arts and crafts festival in the streets of St. Thomas’ on December 18th. Enjoy an arts and crafts festival in St. Thomas Harbour capital, kicked off by a parade of festively decorated boats stores on Main Street stay and followed by music, shopping and dining. Most of the open late on this special night. entry form. invited to stop in San Juan, join the Christmas Boat Parade, and enjoy the conve- invited to stop in San Juan, join the Christmas Boat the center of the vibrant city nience of Club Náutico de San Juan’s marina, right in parade is from Bahía Urbana of San Juan. The best place to watch the lighted boat in Old San Juan. DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 30 Eve withfamily),fireworksarelaunchedataround9:00 of themorningandpartakeinseabaths,bicycleriding,dancesstreetcon- season runsDecember16ththrough24th.Vincentiansawakeintheearlyhours and foods. Village atRodneyBayMarinafeaturetraditionalSt.Lucianmusic,dance,drama sports events,festivalsandfeasts. also St.Lucia’sNationalDay—actuallycelebratedallmonthlongwith ful homemadelanternsandChristmaslights. Festival ofLightswillbecelebratedinthecapital,Castries,withdisplayswonder- side FortLouis,andshopsstayopenlate. MONTSERRAT ANNUAL FESTIVAL 1st. HighlightsincludeaCalypsocompetition,theNightofPanparty,crowning precedence duringtheannualFestival,whichrunsfromDecember18thtoJanuary from FortBerkleyatmidnight. has becomehugelypopularovertheyearsandattractsalotofcruisers. boats startatintervalsafterwards,basedontheirsizeandexpectedspeed.Thisrace longest timetosailthecourse)setsofffirst,carryingFrenchflag,andallother Navy chasingtheFrench.Thesmallestboatentered(whichwillpresumablytake — Festival queensinMontserrat

• NineMornings—auniqueVincentianfestivityassociatedwiththeChristmas St. Vincent,SVG For moreinformationvisitwww.igy-rodneybay.comandwww.worldcruising.com/arc. • AstheARCyachtsarriveinSt.LuciaDecember,specialevents Visit www.stlucianow.comformoreinformation. Saint Lucia’sDayisaChurchfeastdayobservedonDecember13th.The13th • St.LuciawillgetreallyChristmassyfromaroundDecember12th,whenthe St. Lucia Montserrat’s cultureisamixofIrishandAfricantraditions,thelattertake Montserrat • OnNewYear’sEvethere’sapartyinNelson’sDockyardendingwithfireworks For moreinformationvisitwww.antiguayachtclub.com. • Onthe31st,Nelson’sPursuitYachtRace“re-enacts”colonial-eraBritish Continued frompreviouspage FLOAT-ON FLOAT-OFF FLOAT-ON to make your yacht-shipping experience as smooth and simple as possible, while offering you the unbeatable service you deserve. you service unbeatable the you offering while possible, as simple and smooth as experien of experience years 25 over with yacht-shipping each your make to transport, yacht worldwide in partners dedicated and th pioneers to As tailored community. solutions yachting the of transport yacht of providers premier world’s the are Transport Yacht DYT and Transport Yacht Sevenstar YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM

Leaders in Worldwide Why not choose the most trusted names in yacht transport for your next passage? next your for transport yacht in names trusted most the choose not Why shows andmuchmerry-making. with picnics,dances,fashion Martinique isinholidaymood, 1st, everytownandvillagein December 24ththroughJanuary figures andrealanimals.From squares orchurches,withhuman 24th and25thinmanyvillage is re-createdliveonDecember French more information. MontserratAnnualFestival for on January1st. of apageantqueen,andparade traditionally spendNewYear’s 30th (notthe31st; In Fort-de-FranceonDecember In Martinique,thetypically Martinique Visit www.facebook.com/ PM fromthehistoricharbor- Yacht Transport Yacht crèche , ormangerscene, DYT andSevenstar Yacht Transport Martiniquais

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goes topress;pleaseconfirmwithcontactswhereprovidedavoiddisappointment. events makeitagoodtimetogo.” landmark churchesthatyouwillwanttovisitanyway,theextradecorationsand church services,religiouseventsandfundraisers.Sincethereareseveralhistorical decorative lighting.Youwillwanttovisitthisareaatnight. the Christmastreelightsection—acoupleofblocksalmostexclusivelydevotedto over bymorethanahundredsmallboothssellingonlytoys.Mypersonalfavoriteis holiday shows,whichextendintotheweekdays.Aparknearmarinasistaken musicians givingperformancesinavarietyoflocales.Thetheatersputonspecial are hostsofconcerts(manythemfreeintheplazas)withlocalandinternational the festiveseasoninamajorway,especiallyoldtownwithinwall.There day —it’saseason.Infact,itisTHEseasonforCartagena.Thecitydecorated beautiful Spanishcolonialcathedralswouldbeanunforgettableexperience. Christmas Eve.AttendingthissolemnceremonyinoneofSantaMartaorCartagena’s more information. on theBoardwalk”willruninChaguaramasthroughDecember20th. music hasdevelopedaseasonofstagedperformancescalledparangfiestas.“Parang neighbors andfamily,usingwhateverinstrumentsaretohand.Modernparang when singersandmusicianstravelfromhousetohouse,oftenjoinedbyfriends, out theyear. cians, andalsothesocialmoralwrongsthatoccurinpeople’slivesthrough- lyrics reflectonlocalpoliticalevents,inparticularthewrongdoingsbypoliti- Christmas time.ItoriginatedinLatinAmericaandtheamusingcontroversial through 20th.Parangisatypeofstringbandmusicthatespeciallypopularat bar. the anchorageatmidnight.Thenroundoutnightdancinginsandabeach along theBelmontWalkwayuntilchampagnecorkspopandfireworksexplodeover all partofChristmasonBequia. surprised ifyouhearsongsandrevelingintotheweehoursinChristmasweek;it’s surprise anddelightofmanyvisitorslongingforagoodcarolortwo!Sodon’tbe the AlmondTreeinBequia,too—sometimesstartingat4:00morning,to band “jump-up”. certs. Intheruralareas,finalmorningoffestivityusuallyendswithasteel Happy Holidaystoall—Caribbeanstyle! This informationiscorrecttothebestofourknowledgeasthisissue “So asnottoforgetthereasonforseason,thereisanaturalescalationof But ascruiserChuckCherrywrote,“ChristmasinCartagenaisnotasingleholi- One ofthemostpopularChristmastraditionsinColombiaisMidnightMass,heldon Colombia Visit www.facebook.com/The-National-Parang-Association-of-Trinidad-Tobagofor In Trinidad,too,traditionalparangmusicisperformedaroundChristmastime, Trinidad For moreinformationvisithttp://carriacouparangfestival.com. • The38thAnnualCarriacouParangFestivalwillbeheldfromDecember18th Carriacou Visit http://bequiatourism.com/events.htmformoreinformation. In BequiaonOldYear’sNight,takepartinafreewheelingbayside“pubcrawl” Nine daysbeforeChristmasmusicalactivitiesandcarolsoftentakeplaceunder Bequia, SVG Visit www.discoversvg.comformoreinformation. Representative SEVENSTAR-YACHT-TRANSPORT.COM e needs mobility ce, our goal is is goal our ce,

Compass LIFT-ON LIFT-OFF LIFT-ON

DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 31 —Continued on next page ‘This was the sailing I had dreamed about for as long as I have been a sailor’ a lot of introspection. Turns out it was hard physically a lot of introspection. Turns out it was hard physically I and even harder mentally. I never imagined that would spend so much of my energy, time and money sourcing and studying weather. The weather was the key to our tough one-thousand-mile slog to windward. We made it and gained lots of good stories, new friend- ships and many adventures along the way, all the while safely and without mishaps. The boat behaved beautifully and kept us secure and comfortable. The sailing eastwards right into the strong and con- magnificent Bahama island chain, then east with magnificent Bahama island chain, then east with stops in the Turks & Caicos, the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands until we reached St. Martin, where we finally began sailing in a more southerly direction along the Leeward and Windward islands of the Eastern Caribbean. We needed to get south to Grenada or Trinidad to be as far out of the hurricane belt as possible for the season. sistent tradewinds was a huge challenge that involved REFLECTIONS ON THE CRUISING LIFE ON THE CRUISING REFLECTIONS by George Pyrpiris

. We worked our way south along the atherine and I flew back to Grenada on a Wednesday evening, heavily laden with over 250 pounds of luggage between us. We landed after an uneventful flight from Miami and exited the rear of the plane. The

Picaro Six Months Out Months Six Here We Are, We Are, Here C It had been a long six months since we left Hillsboro Inlet, Florida on March 5th, 2014 aboard our 47-foot Inlet, Florida on March 5th, 2014 aboard our 47-foot , warm gentle breeze of the southern Caribbean immedi- ately reassured me that this is where we belong. DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 32 Above: ‘Sailingawayisnoteasybutit’ssoveryrewarding.Youhavetobelieveinyourselfandeachother’ stops inLongIsland,PrinceEdwardIslandandthentotheEastern Fort Lauderdale,andalong,lazyroadtripuptheEastCoastwith Picaro was verywelcome. crossed pathswith.Also,notfocusingontheweatherasintently to justrestandenjoytheislandcatchupwithfriendsthatwe anchorage inMountHartmanBayonthesouthcoastanddecided had dreamedaboutforaslongIhavebeenasailor. 473, reachedsoutherlyinbreathlessfashion.ThiswasthesailingI payoff forallthathardwindwardwork!Oursailboat,aBeneteau Islands oftheEasternCaribbeanwasspectacular.Wow!Whata — We slowlypreparedourselvesforourflightbacktotheUSand We madelandfallinGrenadaonJuly14th.Foundagood The sailingsouthalongtheLeewardandthenWindward Continued frompreviouspage REPOWER FOR A RENEWED BOAT LIFE insint maarten /saint martin New 2015 us$ price list for ourabsence.Wewerebookedasix-weektripbackto available ! ! available EASY BOATING Improve your installation and save time with our high level qualified technici qualified level high our with time save and installation your Improve USA. from imported directly drives + engines with costs and time Save Save money in a DUTY FREE island. : Martin Saint / Maarten Sint in repower to Benefit value. resale boat’s your boost you’ll least, butnot last And consumption. fuel lower to thanks impact, environmental reduce and costs cut also You’ll comfort. and safety on-board reliability, wellas as maneuvering, and performance increase will which engine, new a toinstall easier Volvo Penta’s complete repowering it kits make experience. boating overall your improve will engine new a with boat your Repowering All necessary infrastructures at lower prices (Boatyards, intl. airport, hotels, shipchandlers...) shipchandlers...) hotels, airport, intl. (Boatyards, prices lower at infrastructures necessary All Top right:Workgoalshavebeenexchangedforlife ans. ans.   Contact Contact us forany quote orinformations    Florida. Theideaofa our condo,whichwestillhaveinSouth we weredownsizingwhenmovedinto same timewesoldthehouse.Wethought years ago.Webought had keptsincewesoldthehousethree small miracle. to coordinateavisittogethermaybe but everyonehastheirbusylifetoliveand We leftalotofinvitationstocomeseeus, promises ofseeingeachotheragainsoon. hellos andthentearfulgoodbyeswith ries aboutstormsatsea.Therewerelotsof liked best,andtheyallwantedtohearsto- the cruisinglifeislikeandwhatislandwe wonderful andfullofquestionsaboutwhat reunions. Allourfriendsandfamilywere Townships ofsouthernQuebecforfamily ing livesinSouthFloridaandsearchingout the shallowmaterialdemandsofourwork- once doneit’scathartic.Sailingawayfrom belongings isnoteasytorationalizebut tually. Purgingone’slifetimeofaccumulated have thesuspicionthatitwillbegoneeven- storage locker.Notyetreadytosellit,butI remaining “stuff”in.It’sabigexpensive just anotherexpensethatwekeepour suring atthetime.Now,I’mnotsosure.It’s very rewarding. rewards ofsuchalifeisnoteasybutit’sso our termsandacceptingtherisks the worldfromfreedomofasailboaton Email :[email protected] www.caraibesdiesel.com We managedtoemptyastoragelockerwe Phone :(+590) 590 870 373 —Continued onnextpage pied-à-terre Picaro ataroundthe wasreas- DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 33 silhouette as silhouette as Picaro’s Below: …then east with stops in the Below: …then east with stops Turks & Caicos, the Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands.’ In St. Croix, an old sugar plantation was explored George and Catherine are cruising the George and Catherine are we came into view. I couldn’t help smiling. view. I couldn’t help smiling. we came into I wiping that smile off me. There was no I’ve felt more at home than was back where before. anywhere else plans for the Caribbean with no immediate and enjoy- near future other than exploring seas and ing the wonders of the Caribbean lives in the US, islands. They left their busy goals” and which were all about their “work goals”, which are now focused on their “life To follow their include a lot of sailing. blog at www. adventures visit Catherine’s sailblogs.com/member/picaro. Left: The author at Elizabeth Harbour, Great Left: The author at Elizabeth south along the Exuma. ‘We worked our way chain… magnificent Bahama island George Cumberbatch picked us up from the airport and drove us to the dock at the airport and drove us picked us up from George Cumberbatch cross paths again, and when we do we’ll pick up right where we left off, laughing and pick up right where we left and when we do we’ll cross paths again, sharing our lives. skiff and we loaded us into his wooden Marina, from there he Secret Harbour a light easterly a dark moonless night with the mooring field. It was motored out to be able to make out was just enough to breeze. The starlight Continued from previous page Continued from The friends we have made in the short six months cruising are remarkable. There The friends we have made in the short six months cruising Our current plan is to stay in Grenada through hurricane season and then cruise Our current plan is to stay in Grenada through hurricane Taking small steps and making decisions along the way is how we’ve managed to along the way is how we’ve steps and making decisions Taking small are so many different cruisers we have gotten to know, all with their own plans, on are so many different cruisers we have gotten to know, both and some without either. big boats, small boats, some with kids, with pets, with a glimpse of it is wonderful. They all have their own story and journey and to catch on a boat at sea. There’s an There is one commonality we all share and that’s living comradeship that makes the understanding and acknowledgement that creates a that your time with your time spent together sweet and valued, especially knowing own journey. Perhaps we’ll new friends is limited. After all, everyone is on his or her the Eastern Caribbean and stop to enjoy and explore the places we passed on our the Eastern Caribbean and stop to enjoy and explore for example. Last count, we way down. Places like the east coast of Martinique life. Staying east is a prior- checked into 16 different countries since we left our land here against wind, waves, ity for now because of the huge challenge it was getting the eastern islands before we current and weather. So we plan on getting our fill of think of heading west. end up where we are right now. The key is to take the steps, no matter how small or is to take the steps, no matter we are right now. The key end up where of being one day. you visualize or dream else you’ll never get to where big they are, or it. You have to have to believe you can do one more big thing: you Oh yeah, there’s then who else is there? and each other. If not, believe in yourself — DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 34            % # " "             

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   Jurassic Parkwherethemodernmeets the prehistoric. Just lookingattheelevatorsasyouexit thegullyscenictoursislikeascenefrom along thewaythattellhowlocalsuse gulliesandsomeoftheflorafauna. where thereisareplicaofanAmerindian hutandtherearemanyinformativesigns machine-cut, butnotmorethantheyhave tobe.) at all,statingthatitistooartificial.It is truethatthepathwaysfortramare ing areaisundeveloped.(Somevisitorsmay notlikethetram,ormayopttovisit like plaintapwater. to supplytheisland.Wewereexpectingwatertastealittlesaltybutittasted cave wasopenedtothepublic,34yearsago. candle wax.Thisisreferredtoas“flowstone”.Theflowstoneoldwhen the some pointsalongthetour,wecouldseeawhitesubstancesimilarinappearance to from theground.Whereastalactiteandstalagmitemeettheyformcolumn. At Stalactites hold“tightly”totheceilingwhilestalagmitespush“mightily”upwards played alongthetourandisstillusedasanemergencyexit. together mappedthecavein1974.Theentrancethattheyusedisprominently dis- neer andspelunkerOleSorensenlocalsTonyMasonAllisonThornhill who that attimebelongedtoaThomasHarrison.However,itwastheDanishengi- inhabitants, theAmerindians,itwasfirstdocumentedin1795.Itislocatedonland cave wallssincethemoisturefromourhandscouldcauseirreparabledamage. and itsdevelopment.Visitorsarediscouragedfromtouchingtheformationsor the the startweweregivenashortpresentationongeologyofislandandcave want, yougetinanelevatorandgodownover40feetintothebaseofagully.Before fare ofBDS$2. our driverevenwentoffrouteanddroppedusrightintheparkinglotforsame same terminal.Thesesmaller,privatelyownedbusesarequiteaccommodatingand Harrison Cavefacilities.WetookasmalleryellowbusgoingtoJacksonfromthe Village. Itdropsyouatajunction,fromwhereitisfive-orten-minutewalktothe Broad Street,nexttotheGeneralPostOffice,youcangetaRoute4busShorely mend. AtthetopoflistwasHarrison’sCave.busterminalatend had toselecttheplaceswewantedvisit.Weaskedlocalswhattheywouldrecom- ones radiatingintothecentralelevation. volcanic action,flatBarbadosisnotrestrictedtoamajorcoastalroadandsecondary exoskeletons.) Therefore,unlikemostoftheLesserAntilles,whichwereformedby Barbados youwillseethatthestoneworkmakingupwallsisfilledwithcoral in thenowsurroundingshallowareas.(Inmostofoldstatelybuildingson contained coralreefs,wasthrustoutofthewater.Thisencouragednewgrowth layers. Inbetweentherewereperiodsofuprisings,sothattheshallowestpart,which plankton (smallmarineanimals)accumulated.Thiscontinuedtooccurinalternate tion oftheseaallowedforaccumulationsedimentsandthenbodies when theAtlantictectonicplatewentunderCaribbeanplate.Thisshallowsec- understand howtheislandwasformed.Thisinvolvesgoingbackmillionsofyears make, thejourneytakesalotlonger. drop youatanypointalongtheroute,withallstopsthatthesebusesandvans and dropoffpassengersatthesestops.Althoughthemuchsmallerstripedvanswill towards thecity.Thegovernmentbusesandprivateyellowwillonlytakeup clearly markedtoindicateifthebusisgoingawayfromcity(Bridgetown)or in thefareboxbusandaticketisgeneratedonspot. ernment busesyouhavetoexactchangepayyourfare:putmoney and arealsoprivatelyowned.Onthelattertwoyoucangetchange,butongov- up to15persons(nostandingroom),whicharepaintedwhitewithmaroonstripes son”, Isuggestyourentyourownvehicle.)Finallytherearelittlevansthatcanseat standing aswell—and,boy,cantheycramthemin!(Ifyouarenota“peopleper- the smalleryellowbuses,whichcanseatupto25personsbuttakepassengers yellow. Thenthereare al coloursofblueand are paintedinthenation- -operated buses,which government-owned and US dollar.Therearelarge little lessthanasingle two Barbadosdollars,a are quiteaffordableat transportation. Busrides the islandusingpublic differently. were goingtodothings this timemyfriendandI really justnotenough.So loves toexplorethatis Bridgetown tomailsomepostcardsandbuyafewtrinkets.Butforpersonwho Afterwards wewalkedalongthescenicpathways throughthegullyoutsidecave There arethreemilesofcavesbutthetram touronlycoversonemile.Theremain- We wereevenallowedtotastethewaterincave,someofwhichisactuallyused Our guidetaughtusaneatwayofrememberingthenamesformations. Harrison’s Cavehasalonghistory.Besidesitsexistencebeingknownbythefirst The visitorcentreitselfisanimpressivestructure.Afterpayingforthetouryou Harrison’s Cave We lovenatureandhikingand,sincewehadonlythreedaysontheisland, This meantthatwehadevenmoretoexplore. For asmallisland,theroadsystemisextensive.Tounderstandwhy,onehasto Where yougodependsonwhatsideofthestreetstandon.Thebusstopsare Our planwastoexplore On myfirsttriptoBarbados,thefarthestIventuredoutwascapitalcityof BARBADOS BACKCOUNTRY BY BUS

WWW.TRANSPORTBOARD.COM ALL ASHORE… by Jo-AnneNinaSewlal —Continued onnextpage DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 35 news- Environment Tobago Entrance to the Barbados Wildlife Reserve Entrance to the Barbados Wildlife . We only found this out after a morning of sleeping in and relaxing: . We only found this out after a morning of sleeping in PM . PM . A local recommendation was to try a roti from the popular Barbadian fast PM Continued from previous page Continued from On our first day here we discovered that many of the local restaurants sell out On our first day here we discovered that many of the Local Food when we visit a new place. We try to adopt as much of the culture as we can On arriving in Bathsheba, a lovely coastal village, we saw a bus facing the opposite On arriving in Bathsheba, a lovely coastal village, we saw Bathsheba on the windward side. It Next, we took the bus to Bathsheba, the surfers’ Mecca Grenade Hall Signal Station to explore the trails in the Admission to the Wildlife Reserve also permitted us The Reserve houses The Reserve Barbados Wildlife Reserve Barbados Wildlife of St. Peter in located in the parish the Barbados Wildlife Reserve, We also visited Jo-Anne N. Sewlal of the Department of Life Sciences of the University of the Jo-Anne N. Sewlal of the Department of Life Sciences of the University of the You can check the Barbados Transport Board’s bus routes and schedules at www. In the end we had to admit that it is not as easy as it looks navigating around the On our last day we headed to Oistins to try the national dish, Flying Fish and On our last day we headed to Oistins to try the national dish, Flying Fish and The closest you can get to authentic “Bajan” (Barbadian) food is from the vendors around 2:00 Basically our motto is “Live like a local”. This includes the food. However, unlike in Basically our motto is “Live like a local”. This includes on Barbados. I did my Trinidad, where we are from, local food is quite elusive wanted to try, such as cutters, research ahead of time and found some local dishes I Fish. But the restaurant pepperpot and the national dish of Cou-Cou and Flying chicken and macaroni pie menus were often generic, offering the ubiquitous fried (baked mac and cheese). direction. Our bus driver promptly directed us to take this bus. That route back to direction. Our bus driver promptly directed us to take our steps to Speightstown. Bridgetown cut across the island, instead of retracing was a pleasant ride and we saw Morgan Lewis Windmill in St. Andrew, which was was a pleasant ride and we saw Morgan Lewis Windmill Our ride took us along the the last operating windmill used in sugar production. with large mats of Sargassum Atlantic coast, where at the time the beach was covered Hill campus of the University seaweed. We were later told by a colleague at the Cave the Sargasso Sea; some of of the West Indies that these mats were not coming from originate near the Amazon. the mats that wash ashore on many Caribbean islands speeds are decreasing so Also, owing to climate change (it is presumed), the wind smaller fragments. that the large mats of seaweed are not broken into much Grenade Hall forest. When you get to the admissions desk there, show them your Grenade Hall forest. When you get to the admissions left takes you to the Grenade ticket and you are directed to two trails. The one to the is an audiotape that lasts Hall Signal Station. These are not guided tours, but there built as a of a revolt in for the duration of the tour. These signal stations were of slaves. The governor the 19th century that resulted in the deaths of thousands 1818. Using a combination commissioned about half a dozen signal stations around between these stations and of flags, semaphore and “time balls”, signals were sent signal stations were used to Bridgetown. After slavery was abolished in 1834, these ships. The stations went out alert people to natural disasters or the arrival of trading of the telephone about eight of use around 1884 thanks to the arrival in Barbados into ruins but was restored years after its invention. The station at Grenade Hall fell many artifacts from life on the in 1992. On the ground floor of the station, there are is the start of an extensive estates and pre-Columbian tools. The trail to the right are many interactive signs network of trails that passes through a small cave. There as well as medical plants. along the way (audio signs) telling of the flora and fauna a wide variety of ani- a wide variety mals: peacocks and a variety of other birds, iguana, caimans, brocket deer, red-foot- ed tortoises and mara, which look like a cross between a deer and a rabbit. There is a small reptile house, which also houses aquaria. But the main attraction is the Green Monkeys, although they are actually regarded as a pest species responsible for destroying many crops. The highlight was the daily feeding at 2:00 the north of the island. Based on its location, our plan was to go right around the our plan was to go island. Based on its location, the north of the from the smaller bus into Bridgetown, then From Long Bay we took a island by bus. we took a bus to at the end of Broad Street, to the General Post Office terminal next at the In Speightstown we disembarked (pronounced “Spites Town”). Speightstown Ground. that was going to Indian switched to a small maxi-taxi terminal and — we decided to head to Bridgetown to explore and by the time we were hungry it was we decided to head to Bridgetown to explore and by the 4:00 West Indies St. Augustine Campus is the editor of the transportboard.com. Tours are also available. island using public transport. But we would not declare our travel experiment a failure, but rather a learning experience. If we had rented a car we would have spent more time looking at maps and street signs than looking at this beautiful country. Also we would not get to chat with so many locals. Cou-Cou. The latter is a cornmeal dish similar to polenta but including okras; after Cou-Cou. The latter is a cornmeal dish similar to polenta but including okras; after it is cooked it is moulded to form balls and served with lots of gravy. The day to get this is on Fridays, at one of the many stalls next to the fish market in Oistins, but when we arrived they had no cou-cou. On the way we asked the small bus driver to recommend a stall and he dropped us off right in front of his favourite one and told the cook to take good care of us. He has good taste! Each meal comes with an option of two sides. We opted for grilled flying fish with macaroni pie and grilled breadfruit, but we also got macaroni salad and a fresh garden salad as well. All this for BDS$25. who line the parking lot adjacent to the small bus stand. Another dish on my list was cutters, which is breaded and fried fish served in a local bread called “salt bread”, which is not salty but a relatively dense sandwich bun. We were lucky to have a cut- ter made with from one of these small stands. During our bus rides we also saw vendors selling food from the backs of their cars, and based on the lines they have a good local clientele. food outlet Chefette. This may seem like madness. Can fast food be good? Their roti was similar to a very soft flour tortilla, filled with either curried potato only, potato and chicken, or just chicken, and rolled to form a burrito. letter and the secretary of the Trinidad & Tobago Chapter of the Caribbean letter and the secretary of the Trinidad & Tobago Chapter of the Caribbean Academy of Sciences. DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 36 CHRISTMAS CARRIACOU

—NanHatch

Oh, there’s insweet Carriacou! nothinglike Christmas With Santaan’ reindeerandourgoodfriends, too, We’ll withcarolsandlaughter, Christmas celebrate Get dressed, tunethecuatro, call folks, andsoonafter, An’ apieceofblack cake torevive him, andthen ofyour sweetHey! Gethimadrink Ponche Crème. He’s wearin’ –Oh, hisswimmers gosh!He’s socute! An’ Santahaschangedfromthathotoldredsuit, Takin’ aswim, so, Man, don’tgetonstupid, There’s Rudolph, an’ Blitzen an’ Donneran’ Cupid, It isSanta’s famousflyin’ own world reindeer. An’ Mike, thatisnotgoatyou seen’ down there, An’ cooloffwit’ aseabath? This isnothingnew. To visitthisbeachinoursweet Carriacou You doesn’tknow SantaClausstopshereeachyear Keep calman’ jus’ simmeryou’self down my dear, “Oh Michael,” Isay, day morn! “this isChristmas It lookin’ like goat, wit’ somerealfunny horn.” “Oh Lord, whatisdemt’ingsdown thereonthebeach? I jus’ wakin’ up, an’ Ihearin’ screech,

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Anti-Fouling Paint Anti-Fouling FOR THE SAILOR’S CHRISTMAS STOCKING CHRISTMAS THE SAILOR’S FOR Visit www.shurhold.com for more information. Hydrofoil Improves Dinghy Performance on all boats with outboard Davis Instruments’ Doel-Fin improves performance The flexible Rope & To use, wrap it Simple to use, Shurhold Industries’ Flexible Rope & Cord Brush is the perfect way Simple to use, Shurhold Industries’ Flexible Rope & Cord Visit www.acconmarine.com for more information. Clean Lines with a Wrap-Around Brush Sahara Dust. And anchor Docklines can get cruddy fast. Sheets pick up that darn These drink holders are surface mounted, so no cutouts are required. Each model These drink holders are surface mounted, so no cutouts It’s Not a Cruising Boat Without These It’s Not a Cruising Boat Without a safe spot to rest a hot or cold beverage? Accon What good is a cockpit without motors or outdrive units. Recognized as the original hydrofoil and developed by an motors or outdrive units. Recognized as the original at a lower RPM aeronautical engineer, it offers greater stability, consistent Cord brush is easy to be stored out of direct sun- clean, only requiring a quick rinse and air dry. It should light. This brush floats if dropped in the water! around the line to be cleaned with bristles facing the rope. Hold it firmly to ensure com- plete contact around the line and scrub lengthwise to remove debris, dirt, mold and other contaminants. to clean 13 mm to 26 mm diameter rope. This ingenious hand tool is ideal for dock lines and other tubu- lar items, such as rig- ging, hoses, power cables and railings. rodes… well! fastens with two #10 screws. when not needed. They’re a breeze to simply snap back into place when needed. when not needed. They’re a DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 38 Above: TheorangeseedsoftheSeaBean The podscontainmanylong,thinseeds,stripedyellowandbrown. be upto40centimetresinlengthandwhichhangonthetreeforseveralmonths. with delicateandfeatheryleavesincontrasttoitslong,leatheryseedpodswhichmay Dominica, onawalktotheIGAsupermarket. many canbefoundscatteredovertheground.IcollectedmineinPortsmouth, they dosoincorkscrews.Sometimestheseedsarestillencasedpods,but consistent. Thetreereachesabout20metresandwhentheripenedseedpodsburst, the ancientChineseusedforweighinggolddust,astheirweightwassouniformly Coral Beantree— from SoutheastAsiaorSouthAmerica. produced itemsratherthanthosethathavebeenimportedbythecontainer-load bit, Icanspotimporteditemsatahundredpaces,andmuchprefertobuylocally many casestheseedscanbecollectedlocally.Havingknockedaroundworlda beach shopsyoucanfindexcitingandinterestingexamplesofseedjewelry,in beguiled bytheseedjewelrythatoneseesthroughoutCaribbean.Inmarketsand cinating varietyofpreciousandsemi-preciousstones. still entrancedbyjewelry,andone’seyescanbebeguiledgold,pearlsafas- town —thechictownsofFrenchislandsinparticularwillshowthatweare hoards andtreasuretrove,thestuffoflegend.Today,awalkaroundanyCaribbean [email protected] www.barefootyachts SOME The gorgeousFlamboyantTree— Trees, shrubsandgrassescanallprovideseedsthatbeusedforjewelry.The Those ofuswhosepocketsdonotruntosuchexpensivebijouxcanbeequally Since 1984 BAREBOATCHARTERS-FULLY CREWEDCHARTERS-ASASAILINGSCHOOL Adenanthera pavonina

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Barefoot Yacht Centre &Marine Charters (Caesalpiniaciliata), brooches haveformedgravegoods,burial laces, bracelets,rings,earringsand beings wereforpersonaladornment:neck- of theearliestartifactsmadebyhuman —hasbrightred,hard-casedseedsthat —canbered-oryellow-flowered, —Continued onnextpage interspersedwithJob’sTearsBottom:TheflowersandseedpodoftheFlamboyant, Caribbean Jewelry of the by LindaLaneThornton Seed .com Delonix regia DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 39 Adenanthera pavonina Above: A seed carved into a sloth Below: The corkscrew seedpod of Étonnantes by Nathalie Vidal (ISBN S/V Coromandel. Some of the most imaginative seed jewelry I have seen was at the Kalinago Territory I have seen was at the Kalinago imaginative seed jewelry Some of the most to contend One of the issues If you want to know more about Linda Lane Thornton cruises in Dominica. These included some seeds with which I was unfamiliar, but which I with which I was unfamiliar, These included some seeds in Dominica. Coral Beans, where to look. Job’s Tears, grew locally, if one knew was assured Tamarind seeds Flamboyant and to make some had been used and necklaces elegant bracelets combinations. in imaginative with seeds with when dealing is that of infes- and seed jewelry tation by insects. As a precau- can tion, both seeds and jewelry be kept in airtight containers just with a couple of mothballs; an be sure to air them for half oth- hour before you wear them, erwise the smell of mothballs No could overpower your Chanel of the 5! And although the seeds Castor Oil Plant are of uniform and size and an attractive fawn the brown in colour, they contain alkaloid ricin, which is poison- ous, so should not be used. a goodseeds in general and have youcommand of French (should thanwish to read the book rather tryjust look at the illustrations), to get hold of a copy of Graines 9782877636391) published by Orphie. In full colour and with many photographs, it will not only enable you to identify seeds but give you an insight into how they have been used over the centuries in different parts of the world. aboard Entada Entada Caesalpinia . Its seeds were — is a dark, glossy — is a dark, The hard outer casing of The hard outer Left: On an uninhabited island I found just one example of ciliata scattered around the base of the shrub Below: An elegant tamarind seed necklace gigas of bitter brown: the colour comes from a chocolate. It American liana of South origin, but can be found on beaches in the south of the I Caribbean island chain; found several to add to my collection on the east coast of Trinidad. Because of the Seaheart — the Seaheart

— can be , which has bright Caesalpinia bonduc Coix lachryma jobii. Leucaena leucocephala Caesalpinia ciliata Continued from previous page Continued from Several types of Sea Bean can be The tiny brown seeds of the tamarind Alongside many watercourses you Alongside many watercourses you Once the seedpod has been opened — usually a sharp, strong knife is needed — a sharp, strong knife has been opened — usually Once the seedpod found in the Caribbean islands. The grey-green seeds of used to add texture to produce beauti- fully sculptural items, but large quanti- ties are needed for any project. Patience is needed to string these slippery little seeds, but the subsequent item can be most attractive and interesting. — The seeds are easily collected and come with a most convenient hole already through the seed, filled with a silky fibre that is easily removed with twee- zers. The Cherokee have a legend that the plant resulted from the tears which were shed when they were forcibly removed from their reservation in North Carolina to Oklahoma along what became known as the Trail of Tears in 1838, their tears falling on the soil and later growing into plants from which they made commemorative amulets. Combined with the Coral Bean seeds or with Flamboyant seeds, they not only make attractive necklaces, but have also been used to make rosary beads are the most common, but on an unin- habited island I found just one example of can find a grass-type plant with hard, tear-shaped grey or grey-brown seeds — Job’s Tears or orange seeds, dozens of which were scattered around the base of the shrub. The outer casing of the Sea Bean is extremely durable and it is thought that they can survive many years in both fresh and salt water before germi- nating, which is why they have been found on the western shores of , carried there by the Gulf Stream. their great size, they are often used as their great size, they are often or neck- the centrepiece of a pendant up to five lace, as the seed can reach centimetres in diameter. the seeds may be easily scooped out. With holes drilled at one end, these seeds can holes drilled at one end, be easily scooped out. With the seeds may texture to necklaces. add shape and — DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 40 of yourcrewinadvertentlyswitchingoff all powertoyourVHFradio. shortcomings inyourfusepanelandbattery switch.Itwillalsoeliminateanychance VHF voiceandDSCdistresscapability willnowbeuncompromisedbyfaultsor square millimetres(#12or#10USwiregauge) shouldbesufficient.Youremergency way 12VDCcabledistanceoffivemetres (15feet),metricwiresizes3.31or5.26 fuse. Checkfusespecificationsinyourradio’s operatingmanual.Foratypicalone- tected within18centimetres(seveninches) ofthebatterybyanappropriatelysized electrical noiseonyourVHFsignal.The radio’spositive(+)powerwiremustbepro- dedicated 12-voltDCpowerfromthemain batterycanminimizeinterferenceand that youpowertheVHFradiodirectlyfromyourboat’shousebattery.Supplying your boat. ances suchasACinverters,generators,chartplottersanddigitalinstrumentation in in thenextsection,trytoroutecoaxcableawayfromelectricallynoisyappli- line. Besuretowaterprooftheoutdoorantennaconnectionseffectively.Aswe’llcover connectors frommarinechandlerieswilllikelycomebacktohauntyoudown the solder high-qualityPL259connectorsontheends.Thoseconvenienttwist-oncoax If thisisallnewtoyou,fortheverybestresultsgetsomeoneshowyouhow to masthead antennaisthestrongestpossiblesignalwithfewercorrosionheadaches. A happybonusofasingleuninterruptedcoaxcablefromyourVHFradioto the steps andinanchorlockersofcatamarans:someverysalty,wet,dirtyplacesindeed! the radio.I’veseenmanyslimy,green,corrodedVHFcoaxialconnectionsatmast where themastcableissplicedtoasecondaryrunninginsidehulltoward that manyboatsdevelopwaterandcorrosionproblemsnearthebottomofmast the mastheadantennaandradio,withoutanyintermediateconnectors.We’vefound priced cable. ultraviolet raysinsunlight,heat,moistureandcorrosiontwiceaslongbudget- plastic coveringorjacket.Thenon–contaminatingPVCjacketresistsdamagefrom RG-8U andRG-213Udoesnot.AnadditionalbenefitofpremiumRG213Uisitsouter tion mayabsorbmoistureattheends,whilesolidpolyethylenedielectricof tropical marineconditions.WithRG8X,anypartiallyexposedfoamdielectricinsula- loss atVHFfrequencies.We’vehadmixedresultswithso-calledminiRG-8Xcablein cables suchasRG-8UorRG-213Uareanexcellentchoice,theyexhibitminimum coax givesyoumorepowerattheantennabyminimizingsignallosses.Thicker use theveryhighestqualitycoaxialcablethatcanbesqueezedinsidemast.Good signal pathdownthemasttoyourVHFradio. AIS mightwellbemorereliablethanonedualdevice. mise ourmainVHFsystem.Twosimpleantennas,oneforradioandanother intermediate componentssuchasSWRmetersandAISsplittersthatmightcompro- between yourVHFradioandtheantenna.We’renotparticularlycomfortablewith another potentialpointoffailure.Afterall,it’soneextradeviceinsertedinline ceiver. Inourview,antennasplittersaddanextralevelofcomplexityandmaybejust combiner modulestosharethesameVHFantennausedforyourradiotrans- mium pricedAISantenna.SomemanufacturersalsoofferorFMbroadcastradio might bejustaseffectivetosendyourvessel’sAISsignalthehorizonapre- sponders maybeanunnecessaryexpense.Anygood-qualitysteelwhipVHFantenna ties asthoseusedbyyourVHFradio.So-calledspecialtyAISantennasfortran- of thecablefromantennatoradiomaynotbeascritical. VHF antennahasafemale-threadedcoaxialconnectorrightatthebase,length match theimpedanceofyourradio.Forbestresultsdon’tcutitanyshorter.If nently wiredcoaxialcable.Thatpre-measuredcablelengthmaybenecessaryto signal outtowardthehorizonoffersgreatestcommunicationeffectiveness. gain type.Smallerpowercraftoftenuseshorterfibreglassantennas.Gettingyour extension pole.Thesefibreglassantennasarecommonlycalledthree-orsix-decibel Trawlers oftensporta2.4-metre-longfibreglasswhipontheendof maximize theirantennaheightabovetheseatoproducealong-distanceVHFsignal. 20 nauticalmiles. between twosailboatsatseausingfullpowerwithmastheadantennasistypically years inthesalty,,hot-sunenvironmentatmasthead.VHFrange at themasthead.Asimplesteelwhipantennawillgenerallylastthroughmany ent boatsarequitedifferent. the topofyourvesselandworkourwaydown. these partsandgettingthingsrightthefirsttimearoundiskey.Let’sbeginat vessel inyourimmediatepath,orjustchattingwithafriend. tion shouldaseriousproblemarise,whetherit’sdistressorsecuritycall,hailing Caribbean, yourmaritimeVHFradioislikelytobetheveryfirstlineofcommunica- ARE To receivethemostquiet,static-freeVHFradiosignalspossible,Istronglysuggest VHF PowerSupply Now thatyourantennasystemishappy,let’sgetsomeDCpowertotheradio. If possible,trytoinstallyourboat’sVHFcoaxcableinonecontinuousrunbetween Because ofthelongdistancefrommastheadtoVHFradio,sailboatsshouldtry Coaxial Cable However, antennasarejustatthebeginningofyourVHFsystem.Let’sreview AIS (AutomaticIdentificationSystem)radiowaveshavevirtuallythesameproper- AIS Antenna While we’respeakingofantennas,let’stouchbrieflyonAIS. You mighthavenoticedthatyourfibreglassVHFantennacomeswithaperma- Powerboats, sincetheylacktheheightofatypical15-metresailboatmast,needto achieveexcellentlong-distanceresultswiththeaddedantennaheight Are youasailboatorpowercruiser?VHFantennasolutionsforthesetwodiffer- Antenna A VHFradioinstallationisreallyjustacollectionofcomponents,butchoosing Installation TipsandTechniques It’s YourLifeline VHF Radio: byKenGoodings free VHFsignals.Afterall,whileyou’recruisinginthe basic ideastohelpyousendandreceivestrong,noise- your radiohummingamournfultune?Herearesome you unabletoparticipateinthemorningVHFnet?Is

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• “I can’t hear anyone at all. Where did everyone go? Radio check, radio check! Hello, • Squealing feedback? Too many radios on the boat! If you’re calling someone on • Cockpit microphones? It’s a windy place. Wind noise in the microphone will over- • Have yachters commented that your radio voice sounds as if you’re at the bottom “Radio checks” from other boats aren’t very helpful when diagnosing these inter- This is one of the most common faults on a cruising yacht’s VHF radio. It’s invari- VHF Radio Troubleshooting Hints with great audio. Suddenly • We’ve all heard stations chatting away nicely on VHF To conclude, here are some of the more common VHF radio problems that cruisers To conclude, here are some of the more common VHF Some VHF radios have integrated AIS functionality. That’s a great idea and can Some VHF radios have integrated AIS functionality. There are many convenient DSC paging functions in a modern VHF radio. It’s a There are many convenient DSC paging functions in It’s imperative that any of your crew or passengers, especially children, can com- It’s imperative that any of VHF Radio Transceiver radio is your primary safety tool, so don’t try to econo- Your vessel’s 25-watt VHF Now that we’ve reviewed the VHF installation, let’s have some fun and push the VHF installation, let’s have some fun and push Now that we’ve reviewed Ferrite chokes on the radio power wires are often helpful, but they’re not a panacea often helpful, but they’re on the radio power wires are Ferrite chokes hello???” This is very common and quite frustrating for the operator, but great enter- tainment for the rest of the anchorage. You’ve temporarily turned down the volume on the radio for a quiet nap. Now it’s “” time and you’d like to make arrange- ments to socialize with your neighbours. Why aren’t they answering your calls? your boat’s main VHF and there’s an operating handheld VHF radio nearby, audio feedback and annoying howling sounds will drown out your voice. Better to switch off the handheld first. shadow your voice, often making your speech unintelligible. Duck down out of the breeze and try again. of a well? Try cleaning out the little pinhole sound opening on the front of your microphone. It often clogs with lint, moisture and grime, muffling your voice. Check your own sound by using a portable VHF radio as we’ve just discussed. To prevent annoying sibilance and popping sounds, speak across the front of the microphone, not directly into it. Remember that VHF radios are not “sound powered”, so back off a bit and use a normal conversational tone when speaking. mittent problems. The best way to hear what’s going on with your radio is to listen to yourself. How is that possible? It’s easy. Using a portable VHF radio placed right next to your ear at reduced volume, switch to an unused channel and key the micro- phone on your main radio. Speaking into the microphone while listening to your own radio voice on the portable will soon let you know exactly how you sound. Stretch the cord out while speaking and you’ll likely hear the intermittent problem while listening to yourself privately via the portable VHF. Unhappily, curly cord repairs can be quite intricate. The cure for most cruisers is generally a new microphone and cord, or a whole new VHF radio. ably due to a break in one or more of the tiny wires inside the curly plastic micro- phone cord. This occurs after it’s been stretched once too often over the years. they become very quiet, soft and distant. What happened? have related to us during our past seven years of cruising. make your life at sea much easier. Some other VHF radios have wireless micro- make your life at sea much easier. Some other VHF depend on tiny rechargeable phones, eliminating the curly cord. However, they still boat. They may even fall over- batteries and can be easily lost in the clutter of your hats and sunglasses at the board to join all of those soggy mobile phones, cameras, bottom of the sea. The author speaks. ‘While you’re cruising in the Caribbean, The author speaks. ‘While you’re cruising in the Caribbean, of communication,’ your maritime VHF radio is likely to be the very first line so know how to use it to full advantage any difficulty viewing the small shame that, without putting your nose right up close, boaters from ever using their text or reading tiny buttons can discourage many radios to their full capabilities. petently operate your VHF radio in an emergency. When serious problems arise radio in an emergency. When serious problems arise petently operate your VHF skipper and crew will be quite busy. This usually leaves onboard, it’s likely that the to the least experienced person on the boat. Lower-priced emergency communication dif- screens and multifunction buttons that may be VHF radios have smaller display or at night. Middle and higher priced radios gener- ficult to use at in times of stress, knobs as a channel selector, and are usually more ally have convenient round digital LCD display accommodates those of us with age- intuitive to operate. A large you goes a long way to facilitate radio operation when related vision problems. This really need it. mize too much when shopping. A high-quality, uncomplicated VHF radio is easy to A high-quality, uncomplicated VHF radio is easy mize too much when shopping. portable VHF radios are convenient, but they’re use and a real gem! Low-powered enough to use as your vessel’s primary radio. not nearly powerful or dependable can fail at the most inopportune times. Their rechargeable batteries some buttons. to help combat noisy VHF transmissions or reception. In our experience, moving or reception. In our experience, noisy VHF transmissions to help combat autopilots, wind GPS, depth sounders, power cables away from noisy coax and VHF a long way to compressors goes inverter/chargers and refrigeration instruments, from mod- stream interference emanating a clean VHF signal. The data help produce a free ride on noise will likely try to hitch is pervasive, and this ern digital devices are a good place digital instrumentation Wires interconnecting your your VHF signal. the heavy one additional precaution; ferrite chokes. We’ve taken to install those shielded cable. compressor is high quality line to our refrigeration gauge DC power to conveniently find the hidden sources of those annoy- Later on, we’ll show you how boat. ing radio noisemakers on your — DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 42 charts. Fairtides! the tidefloodsfromwesttoeast.Timesgivenarelocal. and fromjustafteritsnadirtosoonrising,thetiderunswestward;i.e. From justafterthemoon’ssettingtoitsnadir,tiderunseastward; hour afterthemoonreachesitszenith(seeTIMEbelow)andthenrunswestward. running totheeastsoonaftermoonrise,continuesrununtilaboutan month, willhelpyoucalculatethetides. shows thetimeofmeridianpassage(orzenith)moonforthisANDnext Street, authorofStreet’sGuidesandcompilerImray-Iolairecharts,which make yourpassagefasterandmorecomfortable.Thetablebelow,courtesyDon 0 1949 1857 1805 20 1714 19 1622 18 1530 17 1437 16 1344 15 1250 14 1158 13 1107 1018 12 0932 11 0857 10 0804 9 0722 8 0639 7 0557 6 0512 5 0426 4 3 2 1 DATE TIME December 2015 For moreinformation,see“TidesandCurrents”onthebackofallImrayIolaire Note: themaximumtideis3or4daysafternewandfullmoons. Water, Donexplains,generallytriestoruntowardthemoon.Thetidestarts Crossing thechannelsbetweenCaribbeanislandswithafavorabletidewill MERIDIAN PASSAGE DECEMBER -JANUARY2015/16 OF THEMOON 1134 1040 0948 0858 9 0811 8 0725 7 0642 6 0559 5 0517 4 3 2 1 January 2016 0330 0304 31 0434 0215 30 0123 29 0024 28 0000(fullmoon) 27 2334 26 2236 25 2139 24 2043 23 22 21 0 0337 0354 31 0519 0313 30 0228 29 0142 28 0055 27 0000(fullmoon) 26 0005 25 2312 24 2218 23 2123 22 2027 21 1933 20 1839 19 1746 18 1654 17 1602 16 1519 15 1417 14 1325 13 1229 12 11 10 I f Y WHALE HELP HUMPBACK MIGRATION TRACK licensed forCanadianAmateurRadioin1981withHamcallsignVE0SH. tronics technologistfor38yearsatRyersonUniversityinToronto,Ontario,Kenwas classes inTorontofrom2002-2008.Workingasabroadcasttelevisionandradioelec- taught andexaminedstudentsinVHFHF-SSBDSCMaritimeRadioboating Silverheels III. cruising season. and readytopassonyournewfoundDSCknowledgefamilyorcrew. approach andtheVHFtransceiver’smanualinfrontofyou,you’llsoonbeuptospeed at thesametimeisn’tmostefficientwaytofamiliarizeyourself.Withahands-on them andstartatthebeginning.SimplyskimmingVHFtextwithoutpokingbuttons its operatingmanualandperhapsacolddrink?Putonyourreadingglassesifyouneed key yourmicrophoneonchannel70;they’lljustbeepatyoushouldtry. longer legalforvoice.Infact,modernMaritimeVHFradioswon’tevenallowyouto 1999, maystillenableyoutohavevoiceconversationson70.Thatchannelisno as aMaritimeDSConlydatachannel.OlderVHFradios,manufacturedbeforeJune also illegaltosendfalsedistressorurgencycalls. ignore theVHFradio,safetyofeveryoneafloatwillbenegativelyimpacted.It’s false transmissionscauseboaterstoswitchofftheirradiosaltogether.Whencruisers This istheradioequivalentof“cryingwolf”,andinsomeareasworldthese call toeveryotherDSCradio-equippedvesselwithinaradiusof30nauticalmiles. while showingareasonablylowSWRreading. antenna loadingcoilwasfoundtobefullofrainwater,thusoperatingverypoorly limited rangewithanearperfectSWRreading.Anotherfriend’sdysfunctional antenna loadingcoil,ratherthantheantenna.Thiseasilyexplainedseverely tant partmissing,theyhadbeenmis-communicatingwithonlythecoaxcableand boat andintotheseabuthehadneverlookedalofttonotice.Withmostimpor- whip portionofhismastheadantennawasmissing.Ithadobviouslyfallenoffthe departed forthechandlerytobuyanewradio.Lookingup,Inoticedthatsteel thing measuredfine.Idrovebyhisboatinmydinghyjustbeforethatskipper within arangeofhundredmetres.HisfriendtestedtheVHFsystemSWRandevery- We oncemetayachterwhocouldonlyhearandcommunicatewithotherboats a VHFantennasystem,butlowestSWRreadingsarenotnecessarilytheHolyGrail. commonly available.SWRmeasurementscanbeavaluabletoolforfindingfaultson International. Let’sallgetonthesameVHFradiopage. plan whilemostothernon-USislandsintheEasternCaribbeanareusing“I” that you’revisiting.Forinstance,Trinidad&Tobagohasadoptedthe“U”USband ers. Thenyou’llbeablemakecontactwitheveryonemoreeasily. the switchtoInternationalVHFBandPlanalongwithmajorityofworldcruis- wrong withtheirVHFradio.OneoftheboatersisprobablystillinUSmode.Make with yourassistance. from thecallingchanneltogivethemabetterchancetesttheirradioandantenna that the“radiocheck”stationcandeterminetheirrange.Betterstill,takethemaway with a“frying”sound?Behonest.Alwaysgiveyourownlocationwhenanswering,so honest replyisbest.Aretheytrulyloudandclear,orjustmoderatelyreadablealong lightning crashesover50nauticalmilesaway! pit. Itgavetimelywarningsofdangerousblacklinesquallsbydetectingdistant Lakes inlatesummerorfall,weoftencarriedasmallAMportableradiothecock- some ofthoseferritechokes.Asanaside,whenboatingonNorthAmerica’sGreat interfering electronicculprits.Thiswilltellyouwheremightconsiderinstalling touring aroundyourboatwilleasilyidentifythosenoisy,buzzy,clicky,hummyradio from anyradiostations.Thenturnupthevolumefully.Holdingthiswhile portable radiobelow600kHznearthebottomofdial,andfindaquietspotaway cal devicesonyourboatusingaportableAMbroadcastradioreceiver.Tunethe power connectionsaretheanswer.Onceagain,saltcorrosionisyourenemy! the powerdistributionpanelandbattery.Squeakyclean,tight,well-formedradioDC behind theradiopanelandinspecteveryVHFpowerconnectionallwaybackto voltage. Thisresultsinpowerlossandvoicedistortion.Again,haveagoodlook undersized wireorafaulty,corrodedDCconnectionwillvirtuallystarvetheradiofor play’s intensity. you transmitonhigh.Transmittinglowpowerdoesn’tusuallychangethedis- Look foranydiscernabledimmingofthebacklightonradio’sLCDdisplaywhen on low?Thetrickhereistowatchthebrightnesslevelofyourradio’sLCDdisplay. As we’llseeabitlaterinthisarticle,theproblemmaynotbewithyourradioatall. cables ornastygreensaltcorrosion.LookaloftattheVHFantenna;isitstillthere? is ourenemy,sodiveintoyourbilgeandcheckradioconnectorsforbroken It’s verylikelyacorrosionproblemincoaxcableconnectionorfaultyantenna.Salt your radioisn’tsettointercominsteadofmode. volume is…still…down.Whileyou’reatit,adjustthesquelchandmakesurethat Well, theyprobablyareanswering,butyoujustcan’thearthembecause…yourradio — rom the Caribbeanrom the are cr region NTERESTED our contributions p our contributions of tailfluke Ken GoodingscruisestheEasternCaribbeanwithhiswife,LynnKaak,on We’re lookingforwardtohearingyourcrystal-clearsignalsontheVHFduringthis Why nottakeanhourorsoinacomfortableseatfrontofyourDSCVHFradio,with VHF channel70isreservedbyinternationalagreementandexclusivelysetaside Random buttonpunchingonaDSCVHFcansendoutfalsedistressorurgency ”RTM” (ReadTheManual)—please! VHF DSCButtons Affordable metersformeasuringantennasystemSWR(StandingWaveRatio)are SWR Meters Note: CheckmaritimeVHFradioregulationsfortheparticularCaribbeancountry • “Thatchanneldoesn’tworkforme.”Wehearthissooften.Thereislikelynothing • “Radiocheck!”We’veheardstationsreplywith“Loudandclear,butscratchy”.An • Here’sanovelwayto“sniff”outsourcesofthosetroublesomeelectronic/electri- Dimming oftheLCDbrightnessduringhighpowertransmitisabigproblem.An • Yourtransmittedsignalisreportedlydistortedonhighpower,butitsoundsokay • Everyoneintheanchoragesoundsscratchyandweakonlyafewcanhearme! Continued frompreviouspage AsaDesignatedMaritimeRadioExaminerwithIndustryCanada,he in Helping? Go to Go in Helping? hotographs ofhumpback whales itical for conservation efforts. itical forconservation www. CARIB TAILS.org S/V

DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 43

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More Old Salts’ Tips for Tips Salts’ Old More New Caribbean Cruisers Caribbean New SUNBURN Wendy Murphy, aboard Protect yourself from the sun with long sleeves and a GREETINGS Devi Sharp, formerly aboard Be a good dinghy neighbor! Approaching a crowded Say hello or “good morning” to islanders on the DINGHIES Ralph Wright, aboard Do not rely solely on navigational buoys or lights, Do not rely solely on navigational buoys or lights, When relying on eyeball navigation, make your way When relying on eyeball navigation, NAVIGATION Don Street, formerly aboard New to Caribbean cruising? We’ve been New to Caribbean cruising? asking a wide selection of experienced asking a wide selection their top tips, just Caribbean cruisers for for you! hat. Wearing a rash guard or even a T-shirt while swimming or snorkeling protects your back from sun- burn. If using sunscreen while in the water, please or a return “morning”, or you might end up in a con- versation with a friendly person. This simple act will open doors to the island. dinghy dock, rather than barging through a group of dinghy dock, rather than barging through a group of tied-up dinghies under power, use your hands to move them aside if necessary. When tying up, please leave room for others. Never tie bow and stern alongside, which takes up tons of room. Use a long (or cable or chain), so others can get up to the dock, too. Don’t leave your outboard tilted up; your propeller could damage someone else’s dinghy or outboard. And last but not least, when untying your painter to leave, make sure you don’t set someone else’s dinghy adrift. street. You are a visitor and it is expected that you will reach out first. You might be rewarded with a big smile as in many areas of the Eastern Caribbean they are as in many areas of the Eastern Caribbean they are very unreliable. through reefs and shoals when the sun is high and through reefs and shoals without reflection or glare. you can see into the water or west after 1400. Do not head east before 1100 DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 44 Leonardo daVinci’swritingsanddiagramsregardinghistheoryofEarthshine because theSunwasthenpositionedinCapricornconstellationduring December Solstice.TheTropicofCapricornwasnamedover2,000yearsago over theTropicofCapricornor23.5degreessouthlatitudeduring Moon northwardat2300.ThatiswhereyouwillfindUranus. 2300. Followtheboundarylinebetweenlightanddarkportionsof western sky,UranusispositionedlessthanonedegreefromtheMoonby first quarterphaseat1114.LookfortheMoontorise1210. entering Sagittariusover23degreessouthlatitude.TheMoonwillreachits tomorrow night. There isagoodchancetocatchfewmoreshootingstarstonightand ter andsettingat2243sotherewillbelittleinterferencefrommoonlight. above thehorizonaround1830hours.TheMoonisapproachingfirstquar- of Gemini.GeminiwillfollowOrionintothenightskyasitbeginstorise could betwomoredayslefttoseemeteorscomingfromthedirection the gliderdesignwasrecentlyreplicatedandaflightprovedsuccessful. book. Thatdaywillbethe520thAnniversary(1496)oftestflight.However, Leonardo daVincirecordedtheunsuccessfulattemptofaflighttestinhisnote- even believedthattheEarthrevolvedaroundSun.OnJanuary3rd, ization helpedtoadvanceastronomy.Thatdiscoverywaslongbeforepeople Earth (“Earthshine”)illuminatedthedarksurfaceofacrescentMoon.Thatreal- light andshadows.DaVincithescientistrealizedthatreflectedoff telescope arraytofurtherstudythestar. origin buttheSETIInstituteisinvestigating.Theyhavealsoturnedtheir an episodeofStarTrek.Thereasonforthelightvariationsisprobablynaturalin Olaf Stapledoninhisbook for useontheirplanet?Thatconceptwasfirstintroducedbysciencefictionwriter star withastructureorsatellitearrayofsolarpanelstoharnessthestar’senergy the discoveryofanaliencivilization.Isitpossiblethatalienshavesurrounded have sofarbeenruledout.Itisnosurprisethatinternetpostscomeoutabout dust, exoplanetstransitingthestar,multiplecometspassingorplanetarycollisions that scientistshavepreviouslyexperienced.Theknownvariablessuchascosmic erratic behavior.Thelargevariationsinlightintensityhavenopredictablepattern The DecemberorWinterSolsticeoccurstodayat0049.Sunisdirectly Tuesday, December22nd Conjunction betweentheMoonandUranus.Asmovestoward Saturday, December19th After spendingthelast19daysinconstellationOphiuchus,Sunis Friday, December18th The peakoftheGeminidsMeteorShowermayhavepassedbutthere Wednesday, December16th Around 500yearsago,theartistinLeonardodaVincipaidcloseattentionto Scientists discoveredthatlightemittedfromastar—KIC8462852isshowing Has theKeplerSpaceTelescopefoundanaliencivilization? Located oppositeG.Y.E. to Mid-January e-mail: [email protected] VHFCh16/68 & CANVAS •BEQUIA Mid-December GRE Tel (784)457-3507/457-3527 The Skyfrom G

C R A E N N Star Maker AADINES V D A by JimUlik (1937),anidealaterbroughttotelevisionin (northern sideofAdmiraltyBay) I S N

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S THE CARIBBEANSKY:FREESHOWNIGHTLY! B

E S Services provided: LAZY JACKSYSTEMS (evenings) Q BIMINI, DODGERS A DINGHY COVERS STACKPACKS & REPRESENTATIVE & FOAMLUFFS TRAMPOLINES SAIL REPAIRS UPHOLSTERY U/V COVERS & AWNINGS NEW SAILS U I LLS I S A

FIGURE 1 close totheSun. That providesusaclearerviewoftheplanetthatwouldotherwisebepositionedtoo sky. Fromourperspective,MercuryhasreacheditsgreatestdistancefromtheSun. evening skyat1816. You willseetheSunbegintorisejustasMoonsets.Thereturn around 0620youwillfindtheMoonsettingjustbeforeturnsfullat0711. is amazinghowmanypeoplestillbelievethetriptoMoonneverhappened. awe-inspiring anditmakesyourealizejustwhathavebackthereonEarth.”It from Tuttle in1858. ered onJanuary9th,1790byPFAMéchain(France)andlaterconfirmedHorace December 22nd.Themeteorsarethedebrisleftbehindbycomet8P/Tuttlediscov- is foracouplehoursaftertheMoonsetsat0227onDecember21stor0325 the UrsaMinorconstellationorLittleDipper.Thebesttimetoviewthesemeteors the WinterSolstice.Asmentionedabove,SunisnowinSagittarius. Regulus, theheartofLeoLion,willbelocatedfivedegreesawayfromMoon. Tuesday, December29th Mercury shouldbevisibleandatitshighestpointabovethehorizoninwestern Monday, December28th Choose yourholidaybeveragefortheFullMoononChristmasDay.Ifyouareup Friday, December25th It isChristmasEveandthe47thanniversaryofEarthrisephotographtaken Thursday, December24th Today isalsothepeakofUrsidsMeteorShower.Thesourcethisshower B &CFUELSENTERPRISE Apollo 8 Easily approachedfromCarriacou, UnionI.,PalmI.&PSV Tel/Fax: (473)443-9110email: [email protected] FUEL •OILWATERICE . CommandModulePilotJimLovellcommented,“Thevastlonelinessis Contact: GlennClementorReynold Belmar The bestfueldockintheGrenadinesfor: Cheapest pricesintheGrenadines Unobstructed dockincalmwater Suitable forLargePowerYachts 16-18 feetofwateralongside Petite Martinique —Continued onnextpage DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 45 is a photographer and cruiser currently based final close flyby of Enceladus will take place on December final close flyby of Enceladus will take place on December has made a pass through the geysers of Saturn’s moon has made a pass through the geysers of Saturn’s Cassini Cassini’s S/V Merengue In the News The spacecraft unless otherwise noted. The All times are given as Atlantic Standard Time (AST) Jim Ulik of Saturday, January 2nd Saturday, January The Earth point (perihelion) to the Sun. reached its closest orbital The Earth has 3rd Sunday, January up in the east- of celestial bodies pairing there will be two trios Early this morning Monday, January 4th is the Quadrantids. It actually started in December The first meteor shower of 2016 Monday, January 9th Saturn and Venus have been on converging paths. Over the last few mornings Enceladus to determine the composition of the water jettisoned from the under- Enceladus to determine the composition of the water ground oceans. from the moon’s interior, 19th. That pass will measure the amount of heat coming is occurring in the moon’s providing evidence of how much hydrothermal activity about the ocean’s chemistry. ocean. Instruments will also record more detailed data NASA. A launch to Enceladus For future missions, 28 models have been presented to could happen in 2021. may vary by only a few min- times are based on the viewing position in Grenada and utes in different Caribbean locations. receives more intense radiation from the Sun at perihelion. That extra radiation extra radiation Sun at perihelion. That intense radiation from the receives more southern hemi- temperature because the the Earth’s average does not increase water, which hemisphere is 80 percent the Sun. The southern sphere is facing throughout the the additional heat radiation and disperses absorbs the additional southern oceans. If you are up and Spica located in Virgo. group is Mars, the Moon ern sky. One or see a bright Saturn just below Venus. And to the right around 0530 you will also the heart of the scorpion, as shown in Figure 3. south of Saturn is Antares, it The peak may be around 80 meteors per hour but but the peak event is tonight. and best time to look for the shower is between 0200 only lasts for a few hours. The January 5th. The Moon is approaching the New Moon 0600 on January 4th or the interfere with viewing shooting stars. The source of phase, so hopefully it will not sky. meteors is from the northeastern will almost appear as one celestial object. If you look This morning the two planets you may be able to see the narrow separation through a pair of binoculars the January 3rd the Moon has been moving out of between the planets. Since the horizon and approaches the Sun for the New Moon picture as it drops below phase tomorrow. in Grenada.

FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 Right: The geysers on the south pole of Saturn’s moon Enceladus Right: The geysers on the south pole of Saturn’s moon Continued from previous page Continued from Friday, January 1st Dickens as it makes a close Showing up a little late for Christmas is asteroid (4370) Thursday, December 31st Thursday, December will rise at 2234 and the Moon. The Moon conjunction between Jupiter There will be a Above: Earthrise from the Moon taken from Apollo 8 Above: Earthrise from the Moon Below: Planets, stars and the Moon at 0545 hours on January 3rd Below: Planets, stars and the Moon at 0545 hours on January approach to Earth. The asteroid was discovered by Edward LG Bowell on September approach to Earth. The asteroid was discovered by Edward is located between Gemini 22nd, 1982 and named for Charles Dickens. The asteroid and Canis Minor. on December 30th and gradually appear to approach Jupiter. The two bodies will be to approach Jupiter. The two 30th and gradually appear on December before sunrise. for Mars to be near Spica degrees apart at 0600. Look less than four — DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 46

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FREE US$8.95 Caribbean Compass Marina Cruising Life 3 volumes Zar-Par . now workforce fortheentireconstructionperiod”. is alsoalastingtributeto“WestIndians, whoprovidedatleast60percentofthe researching materialforhernarrativein the1970s,isnotonlylaudableinitself,it struction ofthePanamaCanal,and effortoftheJamaicanauthor,whobegan helpers. Onthecanal,boyswereemployed as‘waterboys’.” living expenses,childrenasyoungfive andsixwereputtoworkashousehold their senseofidentityandnotions‘home’. Withtheirparentshard-pressedtomeet to Panamaorborntherewereexperience otherdifficulties,notleasttheeffecton many ofthemfatal. worker AlfredBanisteroftheearlyyears.”Andthentherewereaccidentson job, West Indianlivesandbloodwastakentoputthroughthiscanal.’Sowrotesilver was calledtyfodfeverraginginthematachinsection.UnitedStatesCitensin and problems ontheisthmus:“‘Malariawasragingyellowfeveranother work theycarriedout,theclimatechangehadtoundergo,andtheirhealth fraternal organizations,livingconditionsandworkingconditions.Shedetails the us oftheirhardships;theracismexperienced;andsocialactivities,prayer life, bulk ofSenior’snarrativeisabouttheendeavourssilverworkers.Shetells and index,countlesspictureswhichlendavisualimpacttothenarrative, the tables andmapsalongsideherwork,expansivenotes,selectedbibliography Mary Seacole. than theyhaveabout Florence Nightingale have heardabout Alas, moreWestIndians passed thoseofdoctors.” at thetimeoftensur- disease andtreatments knowledge oftropical medicine womanwhose Jamaica, aself-taught ally called‘doctoress’in line ofwomentradition- 1856), “camefromalong Crimean War(1854- greatest fameduringthe and wastoearnher in theisthmus1851 Seacole, whofirstarrived Jamaica isnamed.Mary of theWestIndiesin Campus oftheUniversity of thehallsatMona maternal grandfather,aboutwhomnootherinformationisdivulged. force” wereJamaicans,includingtheauthor’sgreat-uncleandhissister,her the majorityof“WestIndians,whowereneverlessthantwo-thirdslabour to absorb.AndifyoufindthebookleansmoretowardsJamaicans,reasonisthat Canal mightbecalledthemosteffectivebirth-controldeviceofitstimes.” the islandsandBritishmainlandterritoriesthatconstructionofPanama the impactontheirhomelands.Somanyyoungmenofreproductiveagecamefrom underside. Ittellsoftheimpactonislanderswhosuppliedmanpowerand Americans, the“goldworkers”,whowerepaidingold. other non-UScitizensandAfro-Americans,evenforthesamelaboraswhite ver workers”,thuslabeledbecausetheywerepaidinPanamaniansilver,asall book: thecontributionofphysicallabourbymainlyWestIndians,so-called“sil- immense contributionofphysicallabour.”AndthisindeedistheessenceSenior’s Press, ©2014,416pages,ISBN978-976-640-457-4 BOOK REVIEWBYJ.WYNNER imme ‘SILVER WORKERS’ON The timespentplacingtheseworkersin contextbefore,duringandafterthecon- The experiencesofchildrenarenottobe forgotten.“WestIndianchildrenbrought Although presenting However, oneoftheinterestingvignettestellsMarySeacole,afterwhom Attimesthereadingbecomesabittaxing,butthatisbecausetheresomuch “This narrative,then,tellsthestoryofPanamaCanalfromotherside, Dying ToBetterThemselves THE PANAMACANAL nse cont ribu tion of phys for undergroundplacementofdynamitepriortodredging Behind therowboat,WestIndianworkersonaraftused ical byOliveSenior,TheUniversityoftheWestIndies lab our ”An dth workers. Fewrecognizethe and workbytheso-calledsilver Few speakoftherealitydailylife agement andmedicalinnovations. mining, engineering,projectman- construction, detailingproblemsin Innumerable booksdiscussits physical labourmadeitareality. of themenandwomenwhose the canal’smostessentialtale:that was overcomewiththeneedtotell our story’.Revisitingmynotes,I — shesays,“IknewIhadto‘tell Horn to5,200milesviatheCanal 13,000 milesgoingaroundCape New YorktoSanFranciscofrom lessening thesailingmilesfrom oceans aftermillionsofyears,and reuniting theAtlanticandPacific to southonthewaterpassage top tobottomofthecut,fromnorth through thenightandday,from those labourers—whoworkedall decade ofthe20thcentury. ments ontheplanetduringfirst of thegreatestengineeringachieve- tribution totheconstructionofone Panama CanalZone,andtheircon- presence ofWestIndiansinthe To BetterThemselves Of herenduringtestamentto The OliveSeniorchronicle features the featuresthe Dying Dying DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 47 and and , with the , with the family. There family. There Cyatheacae Ferns are certainly not like “Tree fern” is a term for “Tree fern” is a term for Dicksoniaceae majority being in the Cyatheacae are numerous species to be found, and they tend to be quite regionalized. One spe- cies may be found on one particular mountain, but not another, even on the same island. Species disap- pear and new ones appear with regularity, with new species being discovered quite often. most other plants that we know. They don’t flower or produce fruit, and they don’t have seeds. They reproduce using spores that grow on the underside of their leaves, or fronds. Without getting too technical, when the spores fall they create a sort of pseudo-plant (my term, not a real one) that creates one egg and multiple sperm. However, the sperm doesn’t fertilize that same egg — that would be inbreeding and not bode well for the continuing vitality of the species. It will fertilize an ferns that have a longer, trunk-like, stalk. There are some true tree ferns, of the families by Lynn Kaak ) tree fern that we see in the Caribbean tends to have a

Cyatheacae Jurassic Park: Jurassic

Tree Ferns, our Tree Ferns, Prehistoric Plants Prehistoric It’s unusual to see a shade-loving tree fern standing alone So while evolution has helped some plants, several millennia ago those ancient tree The stalks, because they aren’t made of wood, have some unique properties. These ancient throwbacks can be found in relatively cool, humid areas (by tropical The leaves or fronds of the typical Caribbean tree fern are scaly with hairs or The typical ( Ferns can also spread by means of their roots, with offshoots growing from the Ferns can also spread by means of their roots, with Before dinosaurs ruled the Earth, while our diminutive ancestors scurried in the Earth, while our diminutive ancestors scurried in the Before dinosaurs ruled the As you travel through the Caribbean, every month there’s the Caribbean, every month there’s As you travel through something special to look out for. In December, why for look out for. In December, why pine something special to we can observe the unique tree ferns? Christmas trees when ferns already had pretty much figured everything out. Because of their relatively porous construction, they provide a fantastic medium for the propagation of orchids and other epiphytes, and tree ferns are harvested in some places for this very purpose. The “wood” stands up pretty well to dampness, and it’s utilized in some countries for the manufacture of outdoor furniture. The lumber can have fascinating patterns due to its vascular network. Many hiking trails in Dominica and other islands use the readily available tree fern wood to make steps on the trails. Artisans carve the stalks into masks and other forms of three-dimensional art, which is often for sale to tourists. In some areas these activities have created such a threat to some tree fern species, that many have now been protected by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES). standards), with plenty of shade. Essentially, they are one of the mainstays of the rainforests. They provide the intermediate growth above the ground cover, but below the tall canopy trees. This gives them the water that they need, as well as the shade. They are also not overly fond of heat, but may still be used for ornamental purposes in some gardens, provided that one doesn’t expect them to grow very large or pos- sibly produce offspring. Frequent watering would be absolutely necessary. spikes. The underside has rows of bumps housing the spores. hairy trunk or stem and can grow to a height of about ten metres (35 feet). The stems have veins that allow the movement of water and nutrients more effectively than in some other plants. As water evaporates from the leaves, this creates a partial vacu- um in the veins, drawing up more water and nutrients from the well-developed root system. The term “trunk” is more for convenience, as the stalk is actually comprised of roots that grow vertically, with the new leaf growth coming out of the top. This new growth unfurls in a form that is often referred to as a “fiddlehead”, as it looks like the rounded end of a violin. Some species have very edible fiddleheads. This new fiddlehead eventually becomes a new frond. egg from another fern plant Once fertilization occurs th which gives the tree ferns an roots and developing. This is a fairly efficient method, advantage in the highly competitive rainforest. egg from another fern plant. Once fertilization occurs, this pseudo-plant dies and the egg from another fern plant. Once fertilization occurs, that we know. “embryo” falls to the soil and then grows into the fern undergrowth trying not to be eaten, ferns were a dominant feature in the plant be eaten, ferns were a dominant feature in the plant undergrowth trying not to dinosaur descendants are trying not to get mashed world. These days, smaller-scale still with us, however they aren’t as dominant as they or eaten by us. Ferns are once were. LOOK OUT FOR… LOOK DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 48 True Blue, St George’s Grenada True Blue,St George’s Grenada M Month’s Call 1(473)[email protected] JONAS BROWNE&HUBBARD(G’da.)Ltd. Hubbard’s The FoodFairhasitallandalotmore. or afineselectionofliquorandwine, or fruits,toiletries,householdgoods, products, meat,freshvegetables Whether it’scannedgoods,dairy conveniently locatedsupermarkets. best pricesinGrenadaatourtwo on thewidestselectionand Stock Up What CruisersNeedtoKnow Book yourCarrentals&IslandTours withus Caribbean Horizons ToursCaribbean &Services toeEgnsGniePrs& Parts Genuine Engines Stroke 4 & 2 &4-StrokeEnginesGenuinePartsService C Duty freedeliveries&reliableservicefor Yachts ARC Celebrates30Years! INTYRE BROS. LTD.

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se ll ! GRENADA Se : Panama, undereachofwhichIhavehoveto,gettinganight’srestinthecompanyfriendlylight. I supposemight,however,givethat1toSombrerointheAnegadaChannelandElFarallonoffofPortobello because theprivilegeofarrivingsomewhereandgettinganchordowndemandsaminimum2.Forlagniappe (Honduras) (Honduras) Higuerote inVenezuela,soitisincludedmylist. my priorities. ticular, onlytobetheviewfromanothersailor’sporthole.Thesearenotjudgments,myperspectiveand building woodenboatsandwheretheygreetyouonyourmorningbaysidewalk. A placewherefolksgofishing,divingandfarming.Wherepeoplearewalkingtoschool,dancinginthestreets, care aboutothersandnotonlywhatthinkthem.Mypreferenceisforacommunitythatrisesatdawn. enough breezetospinmywindgeneratorandpreferablyfewerthan30rainydaysayear. A placewherethesandissoft,seaclean,reefhealthy,therearenoflies,always is adouble-downnegativeforthissailor.Iprefersilentanchoragewithonlythesoundoffewroostersatdawn. It isgoodtohaveafewneighbors—butnottoomany.Electronicmusicscreamingabout“bubblingup”at0200 essential. Alocaloutdoormarketisimportantbecausenever-chilledvegetableslastalotlongerthanchilledones. essential, andwaterfallsarethebest.Anearbyhauloutfacilityisalwaysnice.Goodswimmingfishing sail andthatpreferablyisnotlinedwithsunkenabandonedsteelwrecks.Accesstocleandrinkingwater weighs over20tonsanddrawssevenfeetofwater. planets, whichmeansthatnearbylightedmarinas,discos,bars,restaurantsandhotelsruinmyview.Myboat driver’s license,andrarelywearsshoes.Ialsoliketowatchtheskyatnightbeableseestars of afellawhonevertiestodocks,hasnoairconditioning,refrigerator,ownedcarand paved roadsandtraffic.Thisis,afterall,whyIwentsailinginthefirstplace.listismadefromperspective can neverberatedabovea4,exceptforGrenada—IloveGrenada!Nevertheless,hateairports,cruiseships, I willemploythesamesysteminmypersonalevaluationofsomeCaribbeanislandsthathavevisited. wherever Ihappentofindmyself.amveryfondofmyaxeandbowsaw. beach. Oftimes—well,actuallyalways“replacementparts”mustbelocated,harvested,trimmedandinstalled is madeentirelyofwoodandbuiltonabeachwithouttheuseelectricity,usingtimberthatgrewsame at atimeaboardmyrathercumbersome“”ofCarriacouSloop.Thislastispertinentbecauseship ably: IwasonlyonLaOrchilla,VenezuelaforaweekbutlivedCarriacouover15years! Perspective: John SmithsailstheCaribbeanaboard You willnoticethatnoplacereceiveda10.Carriacouhaswaterfalls!Neitherdidanydestinationreceive1, 9: Bequia(SVG),Carriacou,LosRoques(Venezuela),LasAves(Venezuela) 8: Grenada,LosTestigos(Venezuela),CocheCarenero/Higuerote(Venezuela) 7: Mayreau(SVG),LaOrchilla(Venezuela),Tortuga 6: Culebra(PuertoRico),Nevis,St.Vincent,Cubagua(Venezuela),Guanaja(Honduras) Margarita(Venezuela) 5: Anguilla,St.John(USVI),Dominica,Canouan(St.Vincent&theGrenadines),BocasdelToro(Panama), 4: Montserrat,Guadeloupe,LesSaintes,Anegada(BVI),St.Eustatius,Lucia,Aruba 3: Tortola(BritishVirginIslands),Gorda(BVI),Antigua,Martinique,IslaMujeres(Mexico),Roatan 2: St.Croix(USVirginIslands),Thomas(USVI),SintMaarten/SaintMartin,Kitts,Bonaire,Curaçao,Utila The onlyportwhichhasenoughofmyfavoritetraitstocompensateforbeingonthemainlandisCarenero, So, hereismylimitedlistofmorethan40destinations.Thisnotmeantasacritiqueanyplaceinpar- The people,ifthereareany,ofcourseanimportantconsideration.Ipreferthecompanyfolkswhoreally Essentials includegoodanchorageswithatleastonemangrove-fringedhurricaneholethatcanbeenteredunder First offIwillestablishafewgroundrules.Anyislandthathasaninternationalairportandcruiseshippier Because ofthecommonreasoningthatrequireswomen,whiskeyandgymnasticstoberatedona110scale, The readerofthislistmustbearinmindthatmyvesselhasnoengineandIquiteoftensailaloneforweeks • “TheBestoftheFests:CarriacouMaroon” byLauraSmith,June2011 • “It’sBlowinginBequia”byBarbaraGail Warden,November2008 • “CampGrenada”byEllenBirrell,November 2011 • “MagneticMayreau”byChristineGooch, July2014 • • “Nevis:SteppingintoHistory”byChristine Gooch,March2015 • “Venezuela:IsItSafe?”bySallyErdle, September 2013 • “ASinglehander’sSojournatBocasdel Toro”byJohnSmith,October2014 • “Dominica:CountryRoadsandRainforest,withHotSpringsforDessert”byChris Doyle,September2013 • “Try‘Parking’inSt.John,USVI”byRosieBurr,May2014 • “CaptainMark’sIndependentCruisingGuidetoAnguilla”byMarkDenebeim,July 2011 • “TheIslandSpellofRoatan”byBillandJoAnneHarris,May2014 • “Aruba—thePerfectPlacetoPause”byMiraNencheva,August2015 • “Statia:ASaintbyAnyOtherName”RosieBurr,July2011 • “TheSaintes(andTheirMoorings)Revisited”byChrisDoyle,May2013 • “YouOughtaGoTaGwada—Guadeloupe,ThatIs!”byBillandJoAnneHarris, August2013 • ‘“Yesterday’andTomorrow:DrivingAroundMontserrat”byFrankPearce,February 2012 • “SweetSensationinMartinique”byChristineGooch,November2011 • “AntiguaAmazes”byLiesbetCollaert,April2011 • “ConvenientCuraçao”byCandyColley,April2015 • “Beautiful,BountifulBonaire”byCandyColley,March2015 • “ASailor’sSabbaticalinSt.Kitts”byJohnRowland,December2012 • “RevisitSt.MaartenandSeeItfortheVeryFirstTime”byFrankVirgintino,March 2014 • “St.Thomas:MoreThanJustCruiseShips”byJoaoGomes,May2015 Related storiesfromthearchivesatwww.caribbeancompass.com/backissues.html “St. VincentisNoLongeraMysterytoUs” byJoAnne&BillHarris,February2013 THE PITSTOPARADISE sailing toandthenlivingthereawhile.Theseperiodsoftimemayvaryconsider- my almost50yearsofliterallybeatingandbashingaroundtheCaribbean. and risk. avoided likepoisonivyonaplayingfieldwhileothersareworthallthetrouble determined tobe“paradise”ordefinedas“thepits”?Someplacesare Any suchlist,andanyattempttojudgeadestination,willbebasedonactually So, Ithoughtthatwouldmakealist.Createmyownratingsystembasedupon It isaquestionofperspectiveandpriorities. Just howdowerateaplacehavevisited?Bywhatstandardsis WHAT’S ONMYMIND ofCarriacou . by JohnSmith DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 49              Free WiFi   F D P  E T R A C  D N I W S G A L F Call: (473) 443-9399 continued on next page

! range of home made specialities Compass – we also create a Not just a pizzeria CARRIACOU TYRELL BAY & BAR of Tyrrel Bay. or VHF CH 16 REMEMBER Bar open all Day

www.carriacou.net Tuesday to Saturday Tuesday 6.00 - 9.00 for Dinner 6.00 - 9.00 for Open 6 days a week Use our new Dinghy Dock Tyrrel Bay, Carriacou Tyrrel Bay, Land and houses for sale Situated on the South Side Situated pizza in the Caribbean Open 11.30 - 2.00 for Lunch Open 11.30 - 2.00 for Reservations recommended Sunday Brunch 11.30 - 14.30 Carriacou Real Estate Ltd PIZZERIA ☛ & serving the best thin crust For full details see our website: or contact Carolyn Alexander at Alexander or contact Carolyn We also handle Villa Rentals & Rentals also handle Villa We Open for lunch, dinner, drinks Phone (473) 443 6500 or call CH 16 e-mail: [email protected] to tell our advertisers you saw their ad in For reservations call: (473) 443 8322 10:00am – 10:00pm, closed Tuesdays Tel: (473) 443 8187 Fax: (473) 443 8290 Tel: Free High Speed WI-FI & Dinghy Dock Property Management on Carriacou Management Property CARRIACOU REAL ESTATE CARRIACOU REAL Hubert J. Winston 18 Victoria St. Roseau & Bay St. Portsmouth Dominica +767-275-2851 Mobile / 445-4322 +767-448-7701 Fax [email protected] www.dominicayachtservices.com NEILPRYDE Sails Grenada

[email protected] Trans-Atlantic Yachts! Trans-Atlantic Caribbean Compass Market Place Market Compass Caribbean Duty free fuel (+10.000lt) [email protected] EU-VAT (16%) importation EU-VAT Nick Williams, Manager Nick Williams, Tel: (473) 536-1560/435-7887 Tel: www.neilprydesails.com

Providing all vital servicesProviding to MID ATLANTIC MID ATLANTIC Engineering, fabrication and - Relax! Leave the work to us - www.midatlanticyachtservices.com welding. Fabrication and repair of YACHT SERVICES YACHT

TEL +351 292 391616 FAX +351 292 391656 TEL +351 292 391616 FAX TechNick Ltd. TechNick stainless steel and aluminium items. Incl. Chandlery, Charts, Chandlery, Pilots, RiggingIncl. S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Blue, Grenada Blue, Grenada S.I.M.S. Boatyard, True Check out our website or contact us directly for a competitive quote on rugged and well-built sails that are well suited to the harsh environment of the charter trade and blue water cruising. Jeff Fisher – Grenada (473) 537-6355 PT-9900-144 HORTA / FAIAL, AZORES / FAIAL, HORTA PT-9900-144 DOMINICA YACHT SERVICES DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 50 www.bluediamondcss.com call ournumberwecanhelp. No matterwhatyourneed a premierequality. range ofservicesat ourselves inofferingawide country, that’swhywepride service inaforeign the needforeffi we understand At BlueDiamond BLUE DIAMONDCONCIERGESERVICES-SAINTLUCIA St. Lucia RRODNEY [email protected] Phone:758-713-6119 The Caribbean’sMostEffi saw theiradin to tellouradvertisersyou O SSAILS ☛ BBAY A D # O A N S cient cient I Caribbean CompassMarketPlace N U M L Y nt nt A

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Tel/Fax: for for continuedonnextpage DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 51 STEERING THE DREAM $295,000 $499,000 $2,600,000 Your best crew member - crew best Your back! or talk eat, sleep, doesn’t independent - Completely the cockpit! no lines into - centre install off to No problem dropdown! arch, with davits, 2004 Leopard 47 2004 Leopard 2006 Dolphin 460 2006 Dolphin 2006 Privilege 745

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p e SSpectacular Views of Tyrrel Bay & h LOTS 1/4 ACRE AND LARGER tthe Southern Grenadines to Grenada LAND FOR SALE LAND FOR $295,000 $449,000 $829,000 1997 Catana 471 1997 Catana 2002 Catana 581 2002 Catana www.multihullcompany.com The World’s Leader in Multihull in Multihull Leader The World’s and Charter Sales, Service Need Assistance? Have Questions? Contact us! Contact Questions? Have Need Assistance? 1990 Prout Quasar 50 Quasar 1990 Prout

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Guadeloupe YOUR MARKET PLACE AD Broker Spotlight Broker Virgin Islands Virgin +590 690 34 20 60 +590 690 58 66 06 Antoine Lelievre Antoine Alexis Boucaud De [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] or contact your local island agent [email protected] DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 52 minimal electronics,perfectforaddingthenewestgear. Raymarine wind,knotanddepthmeters.Boatsetupforbareboatcharteringsohas Equipment includes:FridgaboatKeelCooledrefrigeration,bowthrusters, Autopilot, Lovely vesselwithexcellentmaintenancerecord,oneowner, alwaysinIYC'scare. 2007 IslandPacket445 FOR SALE Andrea King,Island Yachts Charters E-mail: [email protected]:800-524-2019•340-344-2143 new Yanmar 4JhJE54hp. charge controller. Newcustomcenterboard, S/S arch,6x65wattsolarpanelswith standing rigging.Stalok’s Harkenfurling,new genoa tracks,primarywinches,chainplates, anchor, newstanchionsandlifelines, Maxwell windlass, for cruisingtheCaribbean.Upgradesinclude: glassed rudder. This boatissetupperfectly of thisyear. Newrudderbearingsandepoxy added, arudderkeelstrapnotonearlyIP’s hardware havebeenre-engineered. Also terboard andallcenterboardbrackets well maintainedbysecondowner. The cen- Rare centerboardtwoownerboat.Extremely 1987 IslandPacket38’ “SaltyShores” Well priced at$399,950. autopilot, chartplotter, electricwinches. equipment stereo, VHF, 2anchors,allCoastGuard Excellent condition.Liferaft,bowthrusters, 2006 IslandPacket445“Tirnanog” , Red Hook,St.Thomas,USVI• , 12’ CaribeRIB,bimini/dodger, Asking $405,000.00.

55 lbbronzeBarnacle Kralendijk,Bonaire;andEnglishHarbour,Antigua TrellisBay,Tortola;Admiralty Bequia;CliftonHarbour,UnionIsland; Day);half-dayholidayinCuraçao.Fireworksmany places,including 31 31 JunkanooparadesinTheBahamas 30 26 –27 Nelson’sDockyardChampagneChristmasParty,Antigua 26 26 25 25 23 21 www.antiguayachtclub.com 20 (CNSJ), 19 –20 19 18 –1Jan www.nauticodesanjuan.com 18 –20 18 http://discoversvg.com 16 -24 15 ClubNáuticodeSanJuan(CNSJ),www.nauticodesanjuan.com 13 www.christmasparadestcroix.com 12 12 9 8 www.sailingrallies.com 6 St.MaartenYachtClub(SMYC),www.smyc.com [email protected] 5 4 –10 4 –6 www.carlosmatchrace.com 3 –6 1 -12 DECEMBER 2015 SEEADONPAGE6 30 –31 www.cruisingoutpost.com 30 28 –2Feb 28 –31 andtheDominicanRepublic(DuarteDay) http://jamaicajazzandblues.com 28 –30 26 –1Feb SEEADONPAGE14 26 25 DominicanRepublic(OurLadyofAltagracia) 24 21 –24 www.mountgayrumroundbarbadosrace.com.SEEADONPAGE5 21 20 –3Feb 18 16 –24 www.caribwind.com 15 –17 12 –24 12 andHaiti(FoundingFathers’Day) 10 6 3 –5 2 JunkanooparadesinTheBahamas;FestivalParade inMontserrat 1 –9 www.stcroixtourism.com/christmas_festival.htm 1 –2 1 JANUARY 2016 PublicholidayinAntigua&Barbuda(NationalHeroes’Day) PublicholidayinColombia(ImmaculateConception) StartofChristmasCaribbeanRally,CanaryIslandstoAntigua. ChristmasRegatta,PuertoRico.BorinquenIslandsSailingAssociation, ulchldyi ua(itr fAmdFre a) Publicholidayinsomeplaces(ThreeKingsDay/Epiphany) PublicholidayinCuba(VictoryofArmedForcesDay) Publicholidayor“recoveryday”inmanyplaces(New Year’sDay); atthetimethisissueof ulchldyi aypae Bxn a) NewYear’sEve/OldNight.PublicholidayinMontserrat(Festival Nelson’sPursuitRace,Antigua.AYC FireworksinFort-de-France,Martinique HighTideRaceSeriesdaythree,Antigua.AYC Publicholidayinmanyplaces(BoxingDay); Publicholidayinmanyplaces(ChristmasDay). HighTideRaceSeriesdaytwo,Antigua.AYC FULL HighTideRaceSeriesdayone,Antigua.AntiguaYachtClub(AYC), Winter MOON PublicholidayinAnguilla(NationalHeroes’Day) Solstice St.ThomasLightedBoatParade,CharlotteAmalie,USVI PublicholidayinBonaire(KingdomDay) PublicholidayinSt.Lucia(NationalDay) St.CroixBoatParade,Christiansted,USVI. ChristmasBoatParade,SanJuan,PuertoRico. Publicholiday intheCaymanIslands(NationalHeroes’Day) PublicholidayinAruba(GFCroesDay) Publicholiday inBarbados(ErrolBarrowDay)andthe Publicholiday inPuertoRicoandUSVI(MartinLutherKingDay) PublicholidayinPuertoRico(EugenioMaríadeHostosDay) PublicholidayinTheBahamas(MajorityRuleDay) alsAulrMthRc,S.Toa,UV. CoursedeL’Alliancerace,St.Maarten,Barth&Anguilla. CarlosAguilarMatchRace,St.Thomas,USVI. rca hita etvlPrds t ri. PublicholidayinGuyana(TheProphet’sBirthday) St.Kitts&NevisCarnival.www.stkittsneviscarnival.com CrucianChristmasFestivalParades,St.Croix. BahamasInternationalFilmFestival,Nassau.www.bintlfilmfest.com ieMrig etvl t icn h rndns NineMorningsFestival,St.Vincent&theGrenadines. [email protected] SanJuanSailingChampionships,PuertoRico.ClubNáuticode CarriacouParangFestival.carriacouparangfestival.com aac azadBusFsia,MneoBy GrenadaSailingFestival (workboats).www.grenadasailingfestival.com SuperYachtChallenge Antigua.www.superyachtchallengeantigua.com JamaicaJazzand BluesFestival,MontegoBay. BequiaMusicFest.www.begos.com/bequiamusicfest. MountGayRumRoundBarbadosRaceSeries. CaribbeanLaserMidwinterRegatta,Cabarete,DominicanRepublic. St.BartsMusicFestival.www.stbartsmusicfestival.org so pleasecontacteventorganizers directly forconfirmation. in ourmonthlycalendar,pleasesend thenameanddate(s) of [email protected] All informationwascorrecttothebest ofourknowledge Antigua CharterYachtShow.www.antiguayachtshow.com FULL MOON riigOtotcusr’pry aeGre a,Troa Cruising Outpostcruisers’party,CaneGardenBay,Tortola. MontserratFestival.www.facebook.com/MontserratAnnualFestival GrenadaSailingWeek(yachts).www.grenadasailingweek.com. St.BarthFunCup.www.saintbarthfuncup.com MustiqueBluesFestival.SEEADONPAGE41 If youwouldlikeanauticalortourism eventlistedFREE of theeventandnamecontact information Compass CALENDAR went topress—butplanschange, DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 53

RON MORGAN ! Compass REMEMBER REMEMBER in

you saw their ad you saw their to tell our advertisers to tell our advertisers ☛ Line drawings/photos and numbers in count. Include name, address US 50¢ PER WORD CLASSIFIEDS Pre-paid by the 10th of the month accompanying classifieds are US$10. e-mail: [email protected] MISC. FOR SALE 3208 CATERPILLARS 2x3208 375hp marine engines/ZF transmissions. Fully rebuilt, zero hrs. Tel: (784) 528-7273 E-mail: [email protected]

Great CLASSIFIEDS Trailer type, RENTALS MISC. FOR SALE PROPERTY FOR SALE PROPERTY FOR 110/220V with only 6 hrs. EC$5000.Tel: (784) 528-7273. SAILS AND CANVAS EXCEPTIONALLY SPECIAL DEALS at http://doylecaribbean. com/specials.htm 4200W GENERATOR BEQUIA – MT. PLEASANT Tahiti igloo, Rentals available. 3 bdrms, 2 baths & pool. Tel: (784) 533-4865. www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com www.caribbeanhouseforsaleonline.com BEQUIA - LA POMPE Large 2 bedroom house and/ or 1 bed studio apartment.Big verandah and patio, stunning view, cool breeze. Internet, cable TV. 2 weeks minimum, excellent long-term rates. Tel: (784) 495 1177 BEQUIA – LOWER BAY Trinity House, 3 bdrms, 2 bath. Available for long term rental. Over 2,500 sq/ft of living space overlooking Lower Bay, w/ great views of the Bequia Regatta. Built mostly of local stone, com- plete w/ whale bone bar & decorations. Complete w/ 2 balconies. More details www.bequiatrinity.com. E-mail: [email protected] BEQUIA – MT. PLEASANT Interesting & unusual, 3 bdrms, 2 baths, pool. Tel: (784) 533-4865 www.cedarretreat.wordpress.com www.caribbeanhouseforsaleonline.com BEQUIA - MT. PLEASANT US$5/sq.ft.views, large lots from www.bequialandforsale.com BEQUIA-MAC’S PIZZERIA Waterfront location, Bequia’s most popular res- taurant. Same owner-man- ager for 31 yrs. Complete land, buildings, equipment. Island Pace Realty. Tel: (784) 458-3544 Email: emmett@ islandpace.com CARRIACOU - PRIME LAND Stunning panoramic view over- looking Sandy Island & the Grenadines, northern exposure, cooling breezes, four beaches, excellent snorkeling E-mail: [email protected] CARRIACOU - HERMITAGE Overlooking Tyrrel Bay. 2 sto- rey house with fenced gar- den on ¼ acre. Upstairs apt has 2 bedrooms, 1 bath, large veranda. Downstairs apt has 3 bedrooms, 1 bath- room, opens onto garden. Available immediately EC$800,000 Laura Tel: (473) 443-6269 or +44 208-621- 5001 E-mail: [email protected]

44’ Hull E-mail: Good condi- IRWIN 52 Full A/C. All teak interior, standing room throughout. Spacious master stateroom, 2 dbl staterooms, 3 heads, large main salon, Perkins diesel, Westerbeke genset, dinghy/ 5 HP, davits , new EPIRB, VHF, SSB, A/P, Radar. Ready for offshore/ charter. US$178,000. Lying So. Caribbean. For full inventory E-mail: keat7179@ yahoo.com HANS CHRISTIAN 33T 1984 [email protected] #68. Fully reconditioned & ready for cruising. Price reduced to US$90,000. Contact Doug Atkins for detailed infor- mation.Tel: (340) 642-6273 cell, (340) 692-2673 desk E-mail: [email protected] ISLAND PACKET 380 2000, original owner added many exceptional features, includ- ing varnished interior, bow thruster, elec. primary winch & a long list of others. For complete list E-mail: 2000ip380078@gmail .com Recently valued at Recently valued at US$145,000, asking US$85,000. Lying in St.Vincent. Tel: (784) 493-3995 or (784) 493-9022 E-mail: [email protected] 1991 CATALINA 34 Sloop with tall rig & wing keel. Lying Bequia, St. Vincent & the Grenadines. US$40,000. OBO, Deborah. 1996 pleasure yacht in excel- lent condition. 2 x Cummings w/ low hrs, full electronics, bimini, well-equipped, per- fect for cruising & overnight charters. Sleeps 4 in 2 cabins. SEAFOX 230CC 2005, Centre console, Suzuki DF225 4-stroke. Fully equipped w/ , rod holders, livewell, safety gear, elec- tronics, coolers etc. Great condition, well maintained. US$26,000 Tel: (473) 536-2319 E-mail: [email protected] [email protected] TAYANA 37' 1977 tion needs a little TLC. Volvo excellent. Bottom job scheduled in Feb. Owner anxious to sell for health reasons. Lying Puerto La Cruz, Venezuela. US$30,000. Mike Lyon Tel: 58 416 484 6121 SEA RAY 440 SUNDANCER

E-mail: Sale or IS ON-LINE! sports fisher, Immaculate YOUR CLASSIFIED

BOATS FOR SALE trade for a smaller boat Tel: (784) 528-7273 42’ SEARAY SUNDANCER 1992 New 250hp. 4 strokes, very economical, quiet & clean running. Sleeps 6 in 3 cabins, perfect for overnight charters. FORMULA 30 2002 condition throughout. 2x 220hp V6. Lots of installed extras. US$55,000 OBO. [email protected] BLACK PEARL VEDETTE BLACK PEARL VEDETTE L-10.97m, B-2.44m, Yanmar 6LPA-STP2, 315HP, 4 – stroke. New Mercruiser Bravo 2 stern drive and aluminum prop (installed July ’13). Head / toilet, nav lights, new VHF radio, aft swim deck/ladder. Helm seats/aft sundeck cush- ions new Oct 2012. Surveyed 2013. Contact Matt Semark with offers. E-mail: matthew. [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] or [email protected] GALAPAGOS 43` STEEL KETCH Center cockpit. Recently hauled out and refurbished, ready to sail, lying Bequia, US$39,500. Robin, E-mail: [email protected] 41’ ROGER SIMPSON DESIGN Light weight, cruising cata- maran, 3 cabins, 1 head. USD75,000 ONO Tel: (868) 684-7720/634-2259 (784) 458-3518 or (784) 430-5021 BERTRAM 28 FLYBRIDGE 1983 2x Yanmar 2007 w/ 2000 hrs. Very good condition, com- pletely renovated at Ottley Hall, St.Vincent. Well equipped w/ AP, fish finder & large ice- boxes. US$45,000. E-mail: gar- [email protected] or [email protected]: BERTRAM 38 Special [email protected] newly refitted 2015 from cabin to engines. Excellent condition, fully equipped. US$120,000 Tel: (473) 410-2933 E-mail: DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 54 riigLf SG 46 55 MP 37 MP Curaçao SVG MP Martinique C/W C/W 54 MP Martinique 31/MP Curaçao Marine 20 52 Cruising withChildren 2 SVG Cruising Life Copper CoatUSA Tortola St.Maarten St.Maarten18/32 Trinidad Ship 43 St.Maarten Caribbean MarineElectrical Grenada Caraibes DieselServices Caraibe Marine St.Maarten 39 Captain Gourmet Camper &Nicholsons BVI YachtSales Business Point Budget Marine Boat Paint&Stuff SVG Blue LagoonHotel&Marina trip. Canada bycruiserinvitationthismonthhadhenotalreadybeencommittedtohis Antonio tocrewinovernightregionalsails.Infact,wouldhavetraveled says BSVemployeeTonyRicardez.Also,visitingcruisersfromNorthAmericainvite catamaran pontoonswhennoneoftherestusnoticedit.Heisveryobservant,” on BelizeSailingVacation’slargecats.“Antonioinformedmeofaleakinonethe in twooutofthreematchraces. his family$100eachweekend.Inarecent“manomano”exercise,hebeatcoach Radial inthe2015Bart’sBash.He’sbegunreceivingprofessionalcoachingcosting located inPlacencia,BelizeCity,CorozalandCayeCaulker.AntonioracedaLaser has sponsoredoneofthenewLasers.Additionally,ortwoLaserseachare XD Radials.TheyaresailedfromabeachsharedwithCaribbeanVillasHotel,which I wassailingbetterattheendofthatweekthanbeforegotthere.” in LaserRadials.Hefelthisperformancewas“justokay,butImetmanypeopleand he wastooheavyforOptimistcompetitionandoptedinsteadtheISAFYW-ENP — www.bviyachtsales.com Your CaribbeanCruising DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO P# DETSR OAIN P# AVRIE LCTO PG# LOCATION ADVERTISER PG# LOCATION LOCATION PG#ADVERTISER PG#ADVERTISER LOCATION ADVERTISER ai’ a SG 41 14 52 MP SVG 43 44 36 38 SVG Grenada Trinidad Grenada Blue DiamondConciergeService Antigua C/W Bequia MusicFest SVG Bay IslandYachts Basil’s Bar Barefoot YachtCharters B &CFuelDock Art Fabrik Anjo Insurance Aero TechLab Antonio’s trainingiscomplementedbystitchingsailsandperformingmaintenance Antonio hasaccesstoBelizeSailingSchool’snew2014fleetoftenrace-readyLaser Though hequalifiedtorepresentBelizeat2015OPTINAM,5’9”and143pounds, otne rmpg 8 …BlazingForward Continued frompage18 49’ Hunter 492008 43’ Beneteau Cyclades 43.3 50’ JeanneauSO50DS2011 65’ Layout Charter Irwin ‘83 46’ JeanneauSO45.2’ 02 Asking $305K Asking 2005. Asking $87K 2005. Asking Voted BestBVI Yacht Brokerage byand Property Yacht ReadersChoice Awards in2013&2014! Asking $175K Asking Asking $199K Asking Asking $279K Asking S.Lca MP St. Lucia 49’ JeanneauSO492004 56’ NauticalDevelopment ‘80 45’ Wauquiez Centurion 45 43' JeanneauSO43DS ‘02 Asking $169K Asking 50’ Lagoon5002006 1993. Asking $99.5K Asking Asking $179K Asking Asking $579K Asking Asking $129K Asking sadDem Geaa MP 44 Grenada UK43/47 MP 40 45 48 MP 6 34 SVG 46 St.Lucia Island Dreams Grenada Iolaire Enterprises Grenada St.Maarten MP Intouchable MarineServices 42 Trinidad 47 Grenada SVG International Inflatables Hydrovane InternationalMarine Grenadines Sails 37 C/W Grenada SailingWeek Trinidad Grenada Marine 4 SVG Gonsalves USA Gittens Engines 28 Free CruisingGuides MP Food Fair Fernando's Hideaway C/W 43 Tortola MP Electropics Trinidad Edward WilliamInsurance St.Lucia 30 Echo Marine St.Maarten Grenada Doyle's Guides Dominica Doyle OffshoreSails MP Down IslandRealEstate Martinique Dominica YachtServices Dockwise YachtTransport Dive SaintLucia Diesel Outfitters Desulfater C/W MP Decided tosellyourboat? Our brokersreallyknowboats,haverealhands on experience,willunderstandyourboatand We sellmoreboatsthananybrokeragein 42’ Bavaria Cruiser422001 44’ Endeavour Power Cat situation, understandthemarketandcan the Caribbean,yearafteryear,andare get youafastsalewithminimumhassle. 2001. Asking $199K 2001. Asking ready togetthejobdoneforyou! 54’ 541981 CT Asking $167K Asking Asking $80K Asking ADVERTISERS INDEX C/W MP 54’ JeanneauSO54DS ‘06 Caribbean SailingAssociationDevelopmentCommittee. sailing areessentialsforislandyouth,shesupportsjuniorandservesonthe Go withpartnerJimHutchinstolifeskillsbuiltinchildhood.Believingswimmingand frominternationalorganizationssuchasIODAandISAF, atively supportedby: in you.” ing andbeatingothers.It’saboutdoingyourbestevenwhenothersdon’tbelieve 42’ Endeavour E421986 Visit caribbean-sailing.com/youth/youth-programsformoreinformation. Ellen EbertBirrellattributesheropportunitytocruisetheCaribbeanaboardBoldly Follow BelizejuniorsailingonFacebookatBzSA. • trainingalongsideadultmarineprofessionalsandcruisers. • extensivelocalregattacircuitdevelopedthroughregionalcooperation, • privateindustryfunding(resorts,revenuefromsailinglessonsfortourists&locals), • demonstrationoflocalparentalandyouthcommitmenttogarnersupport In thisexaminationofBelizejuniorsailing,we’veseenthatyouthtrainingiscre- Antonio’s messageforCaribbeanyouth:“Competentsailingisn’tjustaboutrac- 44’ Voyage 4402001 Asking $295K Asking Asking $295K Asking Asking $89K Asking easac aia rb 25 MP 33 8 Martinique Trinidad Aruba 22 MP 51 Tortola 45 48 34 Renaissance Marina Grenada Regis Guillemot Rainman DesalinationSystem C/W C/W Power Boats Grenada MP SVG Perkins Engines MP MP Tortola 5 36 26 Off ShoreRiskManagement DominicanRep. Oceanvolt C/W 41 Neil PrydeSails 52 19 Multihull Company Grenada Barbados Azores Trinidad Mount GayRoundBarbados Colombia 23 Mid AtlanticYachtServices St.Maarten McIntyre Bros 21 Antigua Marine World MP Marina Zar-Par C/W Marina SantaMarta Marc OneMarine St.Lucia LIAT C/W Grenada Lazy TurtleBar&Restaurant Lagoon Marina La Playa Jolly Harbour Johnson Hardware 10 Island Yachts Island WaterWorld 47’ Beneteau Oceanis 473 50’ JeanneauSO50DS2009 >.%`I0)@? 51’ Beneteau Oceanis 510 2003. ‘93/94. (2)From 39’ Privilege 391991 44’ Bavaria 442002 Asking $249K Asking Asking $115K Asking Property andYacht Readers Choice Asking $79K Asking Voted Best BVI Yacht Brokerage by Asking $149.9K Asking Sint Maarten Sint Maarten  $123K 9/11/35/56 C/W =Caribbean-wide MP =MarketPlacepages49to51 36’ Beneteau Oceans 361 46’ JeanneauSO45.22003 51’ JeanneauSO511990 44’ Trintella 441980 2000. 49’ Bavaria 492004 oaoCy SG MP 47 12 24 Martinique SVG Grenada 16/MP MP MP 27 SVG C/W Venezuela WIND Martinique 16 PuertoRico Venezuelan MarineSupply Turbulence Sails Tobago Cays 29 41 SVG St.Maarten Ti' Ponton 7 Technick Grenada MP SVG Tourism Suzuki Marine MP St.Lucia Sunbay Marina MP St.Kitts 40 Sugar ReefBequia Grenada Grenada St. MaartenSails C/W 13/15/17 MP St. LuciaTouristBoard St.Maarten St. KittsMarineWorks St.Lucia MP SpotlessStainless C/W Spice IslandMarine Slipway Restaurant Simpson BayMarina Sea HawkPaints Rodney BaySails Asking $125K Asking Asking $85K Asking Asking $145K Asking Asking $169K Asking Asking $55K Asking DECEMBER 2015 CARIBBEAN COMPASS PAGE 55 MARINE EQUIPMENT CATALOGUE 2016 islandwaterworld.com

ST MAARTEN, Cole Bay: + 721 544 5310, Bobby’s Marina:

GRENADA, St Georges: + 721+ 473 543 435 7119 2150/1, • St David’s Harbour:

ST MARTIN, Marigot: + 590 590 51 32 06 ST LUCIA : + 758 452 1222 • + 473 443 1028 CURACAO : + 599 9 461 2144

Published by Compass Publishing Limited, St. Vincent & the Grenadines, and printed by Guardian Media Limited, Trinidad & Tobago