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June 2015 UNIVERSITY of THESSALY DEPARTMENT OF UNIVERSITY OF THESSALY DEPARTMENT OF PLANNING AND REGIONAL DEVELOPMENT POSTGRADUATE PROGRAM IN EUROPEAN REGIONAL DEVELOPMENT STUDIES Dissertation: INNOVATION POLICIES IN FASHION CAPITALS: A COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS Eleni K. Michalopoulou Supervisor: Dr. Yeoryios Stamboulis June 2015 Institutional Repository - Library & Information Centre - University of Thessaly 04/10/2021 05:00:04 EEST - 170.106.39.219 Eleni K. Michalopoulou ABSTRACT The shift of modern societies to the knowledge-based economic model has triggered a chain reaction that brought many changes to the composition of their economies and fields that affect them. These post-industrial economies gave rise to a new type of industries, the “creative industries” (CI), the industries that, based on individual creativity, skill and talent, generated and exploited intellectual property for wealth and job creation. Being characterized as a highly innovative sector, mainly due to the interconnection of creativity with innovation, the CI have the unique quality of being able to affect urban economic development not just through their own economic performance but also by promoting innovation to the rest sectors of the economy, through spillover effects. It is implicit, after all, that innovation is imperative, especially in times of crisis, for an economy to grow in a sustainable trajectory. The raised importance of the CI has evoked the necessity of effective policymaking regarding their development, support and strengthening; policies ranging from space rejuvenation, in order to attract “creative workers”, to policies promoting innovation. Despite the fact that the CI are inextricably linked to innovation that link was not recognized neither by scholars nor policymakers until recent years. Innovation has only been considered to be primarily technological, therefore innovation policies would focus on industries other than creative ones. In this paper we focus on a subsector of the creative industries, the fashion industries. Four cases of European cities will be presented and analyzed as to reach to conclusions regarding the factors that assisted in their establishment as world fashion capitals. Our primal goal is to examine if innovation policies were implemented to assist in the growth of fashion industries in these cities. Keywords: creative industries, fashion industries, innovation, creative industries policies ΠΕΡΙΛΗΨΗ Η στροφή των μοντέρνων κοινωνιών προς ένα οικονομικό μοντέλο βασισμένο στην γνώση, άλλαξε την διάρθρωση της οικονομίας τους, ενισχύοντας την ανάδυση ενός νέου τύπου βιομηχανιών, των δημιουργικών. Τα τελευταία χρόνια έχει παρατηρηθεί έντονο ενδιαφέρον σε αυτόν τον τύπο βιομηχανιών, τόσο από ακαδημαϊκούς όσο και από σχεδιαστές πολιτικής, καθώς η δημιουργικότητα που χαρακτηρίζει αυτές τις βιομηχανίες είναι άρρηκτα συνδεδεμένη με την καινοτομία που αποτελεί βασικό συστατικό βιώσιμης οικονομικής ανάπτυξης. Πέρα από την παραδοσιακή προσέγγιση στις τέχνες, τον κινηματογράφο κλπ., η κατηγοριοποίηση, πλέον, των κλάδων που απαρτίζουν τις δημιουργικές βιομηχανίες έχει διευρυνθεί και αγγίζει πολλές πλευρές της παραγωγικής δραστηριότητας. Μια από αυτές τις αιχμές είναι η ένδυση και η μόδα. Το συνεχώς αυξανόμενο ενδιαφέρον στην μόδα και τις τάσεις όπως και η συμμετοχή του κλάδου σε παγκόσμιες αλυσίδες αξίας, επηρεάζει όλο και πιο ευρύ πλαίσιο των δραστηριοτήτων μας. Υπάρχει, λοιπόν, ένα ζήτημα του κατά πόσο η καινοτομία έχει αναγνωριστεί ως παράγοντας αυτής της επιρροής και έχει ενισχυθεί μέσα από εφαρμογή πολιτικών καινοτομίας στην βιομηχανία. Σύμφωνα με την υπάρχουσα βιβλιογραφία αν και η καινοτομία χαρακτηρίζει γενικά τις δημιουργικές βιομηχανίες, η αυτονόητη ύπαρξή της σε αυτές δεν κατέστη ποτέ λόγος να ασκηθούν πολιτικές καινοτομίας για την ανάπτυξη και ενδυνάμωσή τους. Η κυρίαρχη πεποίθηση πως η καινοτομία είναι κατά βάση τεχνολογική αποτέλεσε αποτρεπτικό παράγοντα για τους σχεδιαστές πολιτικής να αναγνωρίσουν πως μπορούν να εφαρμόσουν και άλλου τύπου πολιτικών πέρα των πολιτιστικών για τις συγκεκριμένες βιομηχανίες. Τις τελευταίες δεκαετίες, ωστόσο, έγινε μια προσπάθεια από ορισμένους ακαδημαϊκούς να αλλάξουν αυτήν την πεποίθηση και να στρέψουν τους σχεδιαστές πολιτικής προς άλλη κατεύθυνση, αυτήν που περιλαμβάνει την καινοτομία. Στην παρούσα εργασία μελετάμε τέσσερις μελέτες περίπτωσης πόλεων που έχουν καθιερωθεί ως μητροπόλεις της μόδας και έχουν επηρεάσει την κατεύθυνση ανάπτυξης της βιομηχανίας. Αναλύουμε τις πολιτικές παρέμβασης και δράσεις που επηρέασαν την κατεύθυνση ανάπτυξης του κλάδου αυτού. Κυρίαρχος στόχος είναι, δεδομένης της σύνδεσης της καινοτομίας με την δημιουργικότητα, να εξετάσουμε αν συμπεριλαμβάνονται στο πλαίσιο πολιτικών και δράσεων ανάπτυξης και ενίσχυσης της βιομηχανίας πολιτικές καινοτομίας. Λέξεις Κλειδιά: καινοτομία, δημιουργικές βιομηχανίες, βιομηχανία της μόδας, πολιτικές δημιουργικών βιομηχανιών i Institutional Repository - Library & Information Centre - University of Thessaly 04/10/2021 05:00:04 EEST - 170.106.39.219 Eleni K. Michalopoulou ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to express my deepest appreciation to all those who contributed to the completion of this study. First and foremost, I would like to express my sincere gratitude to my supervisor, Dr. Yeoryios Stamboulis, whose contribution in stimulating suggestions, guidance and encouragement, helped me write this dissertation. Furthermore, a special thanks goes to my close friends and their valuable support throughout the writing process. Last but not least, I would like to thank my family, especially my parents, Kostas and Ayapi, for their patience, encouragement and support in every step of this dissertation. ii Institutional Repository - Library & Information Centre - University of Thessaly 04/10/2021 05:00:04 EEST - 170.106.39.219 Eleni K. Michalopoulou TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................... 1 CHAPTER 2 ............................................................................................................................. 3 2.1 KEY TERMS: CREATIVITY, CREATIVE CLASS, CREATIVE ECONOMY AND INNOVATION ......................................................................................................................... 3 2.1.1 CREATIVITY – CREATIVE CLASS .......................................................................... 3 2.1.2 CREATIVE ECONOMY .............................................................................................. 6 2.1.3 INNOVATION ............................................................................................................. 7 2.2 CREATIVE INDUSTRIES: HISTORIC BACKGROUND, DEFINITION, FEATURES & CHALLENGES ............................................................................................. 9 2.2.1 HISTORIC BACKGROUND OF CREATIVE INDUSTRIES .................................... 9 2.2.2 DEFINING THE CREATIVE INDUSTRIES ............................................................10 2.2.3 FEATURES AND CHALLENGES OF CREATIVE INDUSTRIES .........................17 2.3 FASHION INDUSTRIES ................................................................................................18 2.3.1 DEFINING FASHION INDUSTRIES .......................................................................18 2.3.2 TYPES OF INNOVATION IN FASHION INDUSTRIES ........................................21 CHAPTER 3 ...........................................................................................................................23 3.1 CREATIVE INDUSTRIES POLICIES .........................................................................23 3.1.1 ASPIRATIONS DRIVING CI POLICIES..................................................................23 3.1.2 STRATEGIC CHOICES FOR DEVELOPING CI & TYPES OF INTERVENTION MECHANISMS ...................................................................................................................24 3.2 INNOVATION POLICIES .............................................................................................26 CHAPTER 4 ...........................................................................................................................29 4.1 CASE STUDIES ...............................................................................................................29 4.1.1 PARIS .........................................................................................................................29 4.1.2 MILAN ........................................................................................................................40 4.1.3 LONDON ....................................................................................................................51 4.1.4 BARCELONA ............................................................................................................65 4.2 COMPARATIVE ANALYSIS ........................................................................................77 CHAPTER 5: CONCLUSIONS ..........................................................................................111 REFERENCES .....................................................................................................................117 iii Institutional Repository - Library & Information Centre - University of Thessaly 04/10/2021 05:00:04 EEST - 170.106.39.219 Eleni K. Michalopoulou LIST OF TABLES Table 1 Creative Class Classification ............................................................................................. 5 Table 2 UNCTAD definition of the creative economy .................................................................
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