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Special Edition SPECIAL!EDITION Fashion. Beauty. Business. MILAN20 JUNE 2015 ! This draped blouson in Japanese double-face wool over an unconstructed single-breasted jacket in cotton madras crepe is paired with classic pants in lightweight Lanificio Zegna wool. Collections Milan 2016 The LIGHTNESS of BEING Stefano Pilati channels airy transparency in muted tones for Zegna’s spring collection. For more on the Milan shows, see pages 6 to 14. Photograph by PAOLA PANSINI 0619DAILY_Cover.indd 2 6/18/15 5:38 PM C2 20 JUNE 2015 20 JUNE 2015 3 4 20 JUNE 2015 20 JUNE 2015 5 BUSINESS BEAUTY TOP 5 House OKs TPA Bill, TRENDING Dior and Tom Ford Score Big at ON WWD.COM Fragrance Foundation Awards Next Stop Senate A glittering night of scents and THE 2015 FRAGRANCE The bill passed in the House President Obama celebrities at Alice Tully Hall. FOUNDATION on a vote of 218 to 208. BY PETE BORN AND JULIE NAUGHTON AWARD WINNERS BY BY KRISTI ELLIS With a dramatic flourish, Fragrance FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR: Foundation Awards emcee Alec Baldwin MEN’S POPULAR WASHINGTON — The House voted to held up his wrist, showing a plastic brace- Banana Republic Modern Man — give President Obama Trade Promotion let, as he opened the 43rd annual show Inter Parfums USA, LLC Authority on Thursday nearly a week at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall on after Democrats derailed it, but a looming Wednesday evening. But the simple plastic WOMEN’S POPULAR vote in the Senate is expected to put it to bracelet was not a trinket bought from an Taylor Swift Incredible Things — Elizabeth Arden the test once again. Elizabeth Street sidewalk vendor — it was While the House passage on a vote of his hospital ID bracelet. MEN’S PRESTIGE 218 to 208 revived TPA, the path forward Baldwin’s wife, Hilaria, had given birth Dior Homme Eau for Men — remains complicated because the Senate to their second child, Rafael Thomas Parfums Christian Dior will now have to pass TPA a second time. Baldwin, at New York Hospital, at 1:30 House and Senate Republican leaders a.m., and the bracelet identified him as the WOMEN’S PRESTIGE worked with President Obama this week proud father. “When you think about it, a Giorgio Armani Sì Eau de Parfum — L'Oréal to save the trade agenda, crafting an fragrance is probably responsible for that MEN’S LUXURY intricate plan that they hope will get the baby,” he cracked. Tom Ford Mandarino di Amalfi — measure across the finish line. The com- It was also a good night for Parfums Tom Ford Beaut y plicated process is needed to overcome Christian Dior, which walked away with opposition from House Democrats, who four awards, and Tom Ford Beauty, which WOMEN’S LUXURY Tom Ford Velvet Orchid —Tom Ford Beauty blocked linking TPA with Trade Adjust- pro-trade Democrats in the Senate, who While House Speaker John Boehner took home two. Johnny Weir, Linda Evangelista, ment Assistance, a program that helps required TAA be included in the TPA (R., Ohio) and Senate Majority Leader Givenchy Celebrities also helped Dior to win Danielle Brooks and Alec Baldwin workers displaced by trade and imports. trade package that passed last month, to Mitch McConnell (R., Ky) have pledged two of its four awards — Women’s Media PERFUME EXTRAORDINAIRE OF THE YEAR The vote on Thursday was a revote of now agree to approve the two measures to ensure that both TPA and TAA “get Campaign of the Year with Charlize Theron Resort 2016 IFF — Perfume Calligraphy Saffron — TPA, which the House actually passed last on separate tracks. the votes and are sent to the President for J’adore, and Robert Pattinson for Dior Perfumer: Clement Gavarry Friday, but could not advance because it The House will also need to pass TAA for signature,” there will be steep obsta- Riccardo Tisci explored Homme Eau for men. J’adore was also was tied to the TAA bill that failed. The separately and many Republicans do not cles to overcome. First, the Senate must the concept of wardrobe by inducted into the Fragrance Hall of Fame, INDIE FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR new legislative strategy divides TPA from support that program. pass a 60-vote cloture measure that is and Dior Homme picked up the trophy for Intoxicated — by Kilian expected to come up early next week, revisited the items and shapes Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Prestige. as well as a final vote on passage, which established during his 10-year Terry Darland, president of Parfums BATH & BODY LINE “They will find enough votes from Democrats requires a simple majority. The Senate Christian Dior North America, was quick Hermès Le Bain — Beauté Prestige tenure at Givenchy. International to get TPA through because after all there will will also have to pass TAA under similar to thank one man for the media awards: procedures. They Are Wearing: Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief FRAGRANCE HALL OF FAME be a lot of Democrats that are not coming up Trade experts said the prospects were executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Annie John J'adore — Parfums Christian Dior still good for the trade measures, despite H&M Block Party Louis Vuitton. “Thanks, Bernard Arnault, Buzantian Demsey for reelection in 2016.” all of the procedural hurdles in the way. They AreWearing: for the media budget,” Darland gently HALL OF FAME “I do think it is now a done deal,” joked. Later, Pamela Baxter, president Terry Darland and Pamela Baxter John Demsey, Group President, — Gary Hufbauer, Peterson Institute said Gary Hufbauer, a senior fellow at London Men’s Fashion and ceo of LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics, Estée Lauder Cos. the Peterson Institute for International Week North America, and president at Christian PERFUMER OF THE YEAR, LIFETIME Economics. “They will find enough votes They Are Wearing: Dior Couture Inc., noted that consistent ACHIEVEMENT AWARD TAA and forces the House and Senate to TPA allows Congress to set negotiating from Democrats to get TPA through media spend and freshened images led to Annie Buzantian (creator of famed pass both measures separately. objectives and consultation requirements because after all there will be a lot of Pitti Uomo J’adore’s induction into the hall of fame. fragrances such as Marc Jacobs Dot, Under the plan worked out between on free-trade deal negotiations, but also Democrats that are not coming up for “Bernard Arnault is helping us do what’s Victoria's Secret Pink, Marchesa and the White House and GOP leaders, the limits lawmakers to an up-or-down vote reelection in 2016. Obama still has the Kenzo Resort 2016 necessary to keep a classic fragrance rele- Estée Lauder Pleasures, among others) new legislative strategy divides TPA from on trade deals. It is seen as vital to com- power of the presidency and they can vant,” Baxter said. TAA and requires the House and Senate pleting negotiations on the Trans-Pacific pick out one or two that are most likely to Tom Ford Beauty won both Men’s PACKAGING OF THE YEAR: MEN’S Intoxicated — by Kilian to pass both measures separately. But it Partnership agreement between the U.S. shift because they are not up for reelec- Global Stock Tracker Luxury and Women’s Luxury Fragrance of Kendall Jenner could be a political gamble to convince and 11 other countries. tion until 2018.” As of close February 17, 2015 the Year honors, with Mandarino di Amalfi PACKAGING OF THE YEAR: WOMEN’S and Velvet Orchid, respectively. Le Parfum de la Maison. them into categories, from the Lauder fam- Daisy Dream Marc Jacobs — Coty Inc. ADVANCERS Among other high points, Taylor Swift Kendall Jenner, the face of Estée Laud- ily to the designers and pop-culture figures proved that celebrity fragrances aren’t er’s upcoming Modern Muse Le Rouge he’s worked with in his 24 years at Lauder. INTERIOR SCENT COLLECTION Quiksilver Inc. RETAIL Macellum also stated in the letter to the completely dead by winning the Wom- fragrance, was the inspiration for more He confessed that his first boss — not Bravo OF THE YEAR +16.83% retailer’s board that Christopher & Banks en’s Popular category for her fragrance than one joke. “I checked my Instagram — told him he wasn’t going to amount to Hermès Le Parfum de la Maison — Beauté Prestige International “would be an attractive target and should Shinsegae Co. Ltd. Incredible Things, although she was not in account before the show, and I had 17 anything. “It’s kind of sweet,” he said with Macellum’s New Target formally begin a process to explore a stra- +7.82% attendance to pick up the award. Baldwin followers,” John Demsey, group president a smile, “because I guess I did amount to MEDIA CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR: MEN’S tegic alternative” given the trend toward The Bon-Ton Stores Inc. feigned displeasure: “I can’t believe Taylor of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., told Jenner, something. It’s a testament to following Dior Homme Eau for Men — consolidation in the women’s specialty +5.18% Swift didn’t show up,” he said in mock who was standing next to him onstage. your passion and your dreams and staying Parfums Christian Dior Is Christopher & Banks sector, such as the planned acquisition by irritation. “I’m so pissed!” “You have 48 million followers on all your incredibly focused.” I.T Ltd. Ascena Retail Group of Ann Inc. By Kilian walked away with two awards platforms. I have a long way to improve.” Firmenich master perfumer Annie MEDIA CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR: WOMEN’S +4.96% Macellum’s letter, which was included as — Indie Fragrance of the Year and Packag- He wasn’t the only one dazzled by Jenner: Buzantian delivered a similarly emotional J'adore — Parfums Christian Dior The activist firm, which said The meeting is scheduled for June 26.
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