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Special Edition

SPECIAL!EDITION

Fashion. Beauty. Business. MILAN20 JUNE 2015 !

This draped in Japanese double-face over an unconstructed single-breasted in cotton madras crepe is paired with classic pants in lightweight Lanificio wool.

Collections 2016 The LIGHTNESS of BEING Stefano Pilati channels airy transparency in muted tones for Zegna’s spring collection. For more on the Milan shows, see pages 6 to 14.

Photograph by PAOLA PANSINI

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BUSINESS BEAUTY 5 House OKs TPA Bill, TRENDING Dior and Score Big at ON WWD.COM Fragrance Foundation Awards Next Stop Senate A glittering night of scents and THE 2015 FRAGRANCE The bill passed in the House President Obama celebrities at Alice Tully Hall. FOUNDATION on a vote of 218 to 208. BY PETE BORN AND JULIE NAUGHTON AWARD WINNERS BY BY KRISTI ELLIS With a dramatic flourish, Fragrance FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR: Foundation Awards emcee Alec Baldwin MEN’S POPULAR WASHINGTON — The House voted to held up his wrist, showing a plastic brace- Banana Republic Modern Man — give President Obama Trade Promotion let, as he opened the 43rd annual show Inter Parfums USA, LLC Authority on Thursday nearly a week at Lincoln Center’s Alice Tully Hall on after Democrats derailed it, but a looming Wednesday evening. But the simple plastic WOMEN’S POPULAR vote in the Senate is expected to put it to bracelet was not a trinket bought from an Taylor Swift Incredible Things — Elizabeth Arden the test once again. Elizabeth Street sidewalk vendor — it was While the House passage on a vote of his hospital ID bracelet. MEN’S PRESTIGE 218 to 208 revived TPA, the path forward Baldwin’s wife, Hilaria, had given birth Dior Homme Eau for Men — remains complicated because the Senate to their second child, Rafael Thomas Parfums Christian Dior will now have to pass TPA a second time. Baldwin, at New York Hospital, at 1:30 House and Senate Republican leaders a.m., and the bracelet identified him as the WOMEN’S PRESTIGE worked with President Obama this week proud father. “When you think about it, a Giorgio Sì Eau de Parfum — L'Oréal to save the trade agenda, crafting an fragrance is probably responsible for that MEN’S LUXURY intricate plan that they hope will get the baby,” he cracked. Tom Ford Mandarino di Amalfi — measure across the finish line. The com- It was also a good night for Parfums Tom Ford Beaut y plicated process is needed to overcome Christian Dior, which walked away with opposition from House Democrats, who four awards, and Tom Ford Beauty, which WOMEN’S LUXURY Tom Ford Velvet Orchid —Tom Ford Beauty blocked linking TPA with Trade Adjust- pro-trade Democrats in the Senate, who While House Speaker John Boehner took home two. Johnny Weir, Linda Evangelista, ment Assistance, a program that helps required TAA be included in the TPA (R., Ohio) and Senate Majority Leader Givenchy Celebrities also helped Dior to win Danielle Brooks and Alec Baldwin workers displaced by trade and imports. trade package that passed last month, to Mitch McConnell (R., Ky) have pledged two of its four awards — Women’s Media PERFUME EXTRAORDINAIRE OF THE YEAR The vote on Thursday was a revote of now agree to approve the two measures to ensure that both TPA and TAA “get Campaign of the Year with Charlize Theron Resort 2016 IFF — Perfume Calligraphy Saffron — TPA, which the House actually passed last on separate tracks. the votes and are sent to the President for J’adore, and Robert Pattinson for Dior Perfumer: Clement Gavarry Friday, but could not advance because it The House will also need to pass TAA for signature,” there will be steep obsta- Riccardo Tisci explored Homme Eau for men. J’adore was also was tied to the TAA bill that failed. The separately and many Republicans do not cles to overcome. First, the Senate must the concept of wardrobe by inducted into the Fragrance Hall of Fame, INDIE FRAGRANCE OF THE YEAR new legislative strategy divides TPA from support that program. pass a 60-vote cloture measure that is and Dior Homme picked up the trophy for Intoxicated — by Kilian expected to come up early next week, revisited the items and shapes Fragrance of the Year, Men’s Prestige. as well as a final vote on passage, which established during his 10-year Terry Darland, president of Parfums BATH & BODY LINE “They will find enough votes from Democrats requires a simple majority. The Senate Christian Dior North America, was quick Hermès Le Bain — Beauté Prestige tenure at Givenchy. International to get TPA through because after all there will will also have to pass TAA under similar to thank one man for the media awards: procedures. They Are Wearing: Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief FRAGRANCE HALL OF FAME be a lot of Democrats that are not coming up Trade experts said the prospects were executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Annie John J'adore — Parfums Christian Dior still good for the trade measures, despite H&M Block Party Louis Vuitton. “Thanks, Bernard Arnault, Buzantian Demsey for reelection in 2016.” all of the procedural hurdles in the way. They AreWearing: for the media budget,” Darland gently HALL OF FAME “I do think it is now a done deal,” joked. Later, Pamela Baxter, president Terry Darland and Pamela Baxter John Demsey, Group President, — Gary Hufbauer, Peterson Institute said Gary Hufbauer, a senior fellow at London Men’s and ceo of LVMH Perfumes & Cosmetics, Estée Lauder Cos. the Peterson Institute for International Week North America, and president at Christian PERFUMER OF THE YEAR, LIFETIME Economics. “They will find enough votes They Are Wearing: Dior Couture Inc., noted that consistent ACHIEVEMENT AWARD TAA and forces the House and Senate to TPA allows Congress to set negotiating from Democrats to get TPA through media spend and freshened images led to Annie Buzantian (creator of famed pass both measures separately. objectives and consultation requirements because after all there will be a lot of Pitti Uomo J’adore’s induction into the hall of fame. fragrances such as Marc Jacobs Dot, Under the plan worked out between on free-trade deal negotiations, but also Democrats that are not coming up for “Bernard Arnault is helping us do what’s Victoria's Secret Pink, Marchesa and the White House and GOP leaders, the limits lawmakers to an up-or-down vote reelection in 2016. Obama still has the Kenzo Resort 2016 necessary to keep a classic fragrance rele- Estée Lauder Pleasures, among others) new legislative strategy divides TPA from on trade deals. It is seen as vital to com- power of the presidency and they can vant,” Baxter said. TAA and requires the House and Senate pleting negotiations on the Trans-Pacific pick out one or two that are most likely to Tom Ford Beauty won both Men’s PACKAGING OF THE YEAR: MEN’S Intoxicated — by Kilian to pass both measures separately. But it Partnership agreement between the U.S. shift because they are not up for reelec- Global Stock Tracker Luxury and Women’s Luxury Fragrance of Kendall Jenner could be a political gamble to convince and 11 other countries. tion until 2018.” As of close February 17, 2015 the Year honors, with Mandarino di Amalfi PACKAGING OF THE YEAR: WOMEN’S and Velvet Orchid, respectively. Le Parfum de la Maison. them into categories, from the Lauder fam- Daisy Dream Marc Jacobs — Coty Inc. ADVANCERS Among other high points, Taylor Swift Kendall Jenner, the face of Estée Laud- ily to the designers and pop-culture figures proved that celebrity fragrances aren’t er’s upcoming Modern Muse Le Rouge he’s worked with in his 24 years at Lauder. INTERIOR SCENT COLLECTION Quiksilver Inc. RETAIL Macellum also stated in the letter to the completely dead by winning the Wom- fragrance, was the inspiration for more He confessed that his first boss — not Bravo OF THE YEAR +16.83% retailer’s board that Christopher & Banks en’s Popular category for her fragrance than one joke. “I checked my Instagram — told him he wasn’t going to amount to Hermès Le Parfum de la Maison — Beauté Prestige International “would be an attractive target and should Shinsegae Co. Ltd. Incredible Things, although she was not in account before the show, and I had 17 anything. “It’s kind of sweet,” he said with Macellum’s New Target formally begin a process to explore a stra- +7.82% attendance to pick up the award. Baldwin followers,” John Demsey, group president a smile, “because I guess I did amount to MEDIA CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR: MEN’S tegic alternative” given the trend toward The Bon-Ton Stores Inc. feigned displeasure: “I can’t believe Taylor of the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc., told Jenner, something. It’s a testament to following Dior Homme Eau for Men — consolidation in the women’s specialty +5.18% Swift didn’t show up,” he said in mock who was standing next to him onstage. your passion and your dreams and staying Parfums Christian Dior Is Christopher & Banks sector, such as the planned acquisition by irritation. “I’m so pissed!” “You have 48 million followers on all your incredibly focused.” I.T Ltd. Ascena Retail Group of Ann Inc. By Kilian walked away with two awards platforms. I have a long way to improve.” Firmenich master perfumer Annie MEDIA CAMPAIGN OF THE YEAR: WOMEN’S +4.96% Macellum’s letter, which was included as — Indie Fragrance of the Year and Packag- He wasn’t the only one dazzled by Jenner: Buzantian delivered a similarly emotional J'adore — Parfums Christian Dior The activist firm, which said The meeting is scheduled for June 26. an exhibit in the SEC filing, indicated that it Sears Holdings Corp. ing of the Year, Men’s, both for Intoxicated. later in the evening, Baldwin took a minute speech as she was also inducted into the it will not vote for existing Macellum said it was rebuffed when it first reached out to Christopher & Banks in +3.87% Marc Jacobs garnered two awards for Daisy from emceeing duties to hop down to the organization’s hall of fame. Buzantian’s CONSUMER CHOICE AWARDS: board members at the asked the board to add “highly qualified March regarding its request to “fortify the Dream — Packaging of the Year, Women’s, first row and take a selfie with the model. list of creations over the past four decades POPULAR directors to the board, including for- board.” Since then it has had discussions with and Consumer Choice, Prestige. Unsurpris- However, Demsey had no room for includes such enduring fragrances as A Thousand Wishes — Bath & Body Works upcoming election, is also mer chief executive officer Joel Waller,” management and the retailer’s chairman. DECLINERS ingly, Bath & Body Works prevailed in the improvement in the award category. He Estée Lauder Pleasures for women and pushing for a sale of the firm. according to a filing with the Securities “Unfortunately, given the board’s deci- Youngor Group Co. Ltd. Consumer’s Choice, Popular category with was inducted into the hall of fame with a Tommy by Tommy Hilfiger. She also noted PRESTIGE and Exchange Commission today. sion to reject our proposal, the only tool its A Thousand Wishes scent. International heartfelt speech acknowledging his Shaker with a shy smile that she started out Daisy Dream Marc Jacobs — Coty, Inc. BY VICKI M. YOUNG -5.58% The board’s rejection of Macellum’s we possess as a means to effect change at Flavors and Fragrances perfumer Clem- Heights, Ohio, upbringing (mom was in the creating smells for dishwashing liquids American Apparel Inc. EDITORIAL EXCELLENCE AWARDS request led to the activist firm’s conclusion the upcoming annual meeting is with- ent Gavarry was honored in the Perfume audience), and his many mentors, includ- and cat litter — until Estée Lauder gave -4.81% FEATURE Macellum Capital Management is now that the Christopher & Banks board “has holding our votes for the existing board,” Extraordinaire category with Perfume ing the Lauder family, especially Leon- her the encouragement to work in fine “In the Mood for Oud?” — Town & Country eyeing Christopher & Banks Corp., and the failed to exercise appropriate oversight the letter said. Myer Holdings Ltd. Calligraphy Saffron. Banana Republic Mod- ard Lauder, chairman emeritus of Estée fragrances, beginning in 1972. “She gave activist is pushing for a sale of the company. and has not served as a good sounding A spokeswoman for Christopher & -3.49% ern Man walked away with the Fragrance Lauder Cos.; Fabrizio Freda, president and me the inspiration and the confidence,” ARTICLE “Fire Starters” — Cosmopolitan The activist firm, which owns a 5.1 board for ceo LuAnn Via,” the regulatory Banks could not be immediately reached Matsuya Co. Ltd. of the Year, Men’s Popular award; Giorgio ceo of the company, and Rose Marie Bravo, Buzantian said. percent stake in the company, sent a filing stated. The filing also noted issues for comment. -1.65% Armani Sí garnered the Fragrance of the a member of Lauder’s board of directors. Buzantian’s two daughters followed letter to the retailer’s board Thursday Macellum raised earlier this year are “neg- Macellum’s most recent agitation was Year, Women’s Prestige honors. The Bath Bravo gave Demsey his first break in the her into the fragrance world, she noted ONLINE “Smoky Eyes and Smoky Perfumes: indicating its intent to vote against each atively impacting the business,” and that The Children’s Place. Its dispute with the Seven & I Holdings Co. & Body category winner was Hermès Le beauty industry when she recruited him proudly. And while appreciative of the -1.59% The Allure of Scents that Smolder” — board member seeking reelection at the the retailer “can no longer blame the West board of The Children’s Place was settled Bain; Hermès also picked up an award for for the Macy’s executive training program. honor bestowed on her, she insisted, Cafleurebon.com

upcoming annual shareholders’ meeting. Coast port strike for its declining results.” last month. THomas Iannaccone by Givenchy Images; Olivier Douliery/Pool/Getty by Obama photograph Eichner Steve by Photographs Interior Scent Collection of the Year with Demsey thanked so many people he put “The best is yet to come.”

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new generation of lawyers, brokers, finan- cial investors” to cater to, for whom “their grandfather’s just won’t work,” hence the opportunities for a designer to develop and evolve that wardrobe’s staple with a new, contemporary silhouette. Pilati credited himself with doing just that for the group, “without overturning the Zegna codes, revisiting the silhouettes of the pants, inventing the Broken Suit, and a formal yet laid-back” look targeting “a new leader, a new Zegna consumer, rather than a fashion blogger greedy for new seasonal trends. I have been credited Stefano with creating a balance between formality and fashion. I am a fashion designer, and sometimes the fashion spirit pushes more compared with the rationality of formal- ity, as I have increasingly emphasized the fashion message.” Saying with a laugh that he’s not a loose cannon, Pilati candidly admitted he’s had his doubts. “The company is not called Stefano Pilati, I am talking with Gildo Zegna about strategic choices, and if I have doubts, I call him and we discuss things to reach our shared goals. The work of a Pilati designer is one of ongoing progression. You go back to the designs, you redo them, fine-tune them, maybe return to some- thing you did before that was off-center or too ahead of the times and go back and elaborate it.” The designer said he felt “the fashion factor had progressed” and that, “once the fundamental codes had been established — tailoring, exclusive fabrics and innovation — [he] naturally felt [he] could let [himself] go and develop the fashion factor,” under- scoring Zegna’s personal support and Talks “bravery” in spearheading the project. Pilati is also leaving his mark on turning the group’s shows into events. For exam- ple, in January he recreated a luscious forest, with mountains of dirt and birdcalls — greenery that headed to Oasis Zegna, a company-funded reserve in the . For fall 2014, attendees watched a mesmerizing video backdrop that depicted a journey from the outer reaches of the cosmos, and was realized with the help of an astrophysicist and a professor of Spring acoustic astronomy. Through this produc- tion, Pilati’s “goal was for Zegna’s image to be that of an international player in the fashion industry.” The creative director of Zegna is Conscious that this is the “era of Insta- gram and the Kardashians,” the designer embracing fluidity and light fabrics. felt Zegna needs “to present the collections with spectacularity, especially in Milan. BY LUISA ZARGANI You read about crazy budgets [for shows at other brands], but they work. The dream ’m not about to do a as layering, but he highlighted his work is not only to be invited to the show and pleated or Franken- on “transparencies. Layering is done as a to touch the clothes, the dream is to enter stein for Zegna, but visual and aesthetic approach, not only in the atmosphere, as part of the designer’s I have developed a new terms of .” more global vision. [Karl] Lagerfeld docet sense of freedom from Asked about the recent gender-neu- [teaches].” the confidence I feel in tral trend seen on other catwalks, Pilati Pilati said, in terms of visuals for the having achieved a balance pointed out he had introduced “lighter, shows, he has reflected Zegna’s own between formality and more feminine fabrics seven or eight years “territory, the industry, which is not easy, fashion for the brand,” ago. Women have the luxury to experience packaging a show around this,” citing the said Stefano Pilati. a feeling of lightness on their skin that men videos showing the group’s sophisticated In the two years he has been creative often lack. It’s a unique sensation and I’ve machinery projected during his debut director at the Ermenegildo Zegna Group, felt it myself. I see this lightness more as a show. ‘IPilati’s lead at the Italian men’s wear function, a feminine fabric that can also be While he works for an powerhouse has grown more assertive masculine.” house, he continues to live in Berlin, “the and defined and his fall collection was Rather than aiming to preach a message place in Europe where I feel the best,” applauded by retailers as his best to date. with his designs, Pilati said, the collections he said. Praising his “exceptional team,” Sun-kissed and relaxed despite the are an approach to self-education. “I learn Pilati said he has opted for distance from a pending spring show a few days away, from the collections. I am not a designer corporate environment. Pilati spoke affably with WWD about that follows trends, sometimes I create “Designers are ambitious, narcissistic, his path so far and the prospects going them, I translate l’air du temps. It’s a sensi- self-centered, they want recognition and forward. bility that leads to intuitions that often are they want to save the world and they “It’s a continuous evolution,” said the “I see this lightness not rational. Rationality then helps rebal- absorb everything. [Living far away] helps designer, offering a glimpse into the new more as a function, a ance the creative impulse or the instinct, creativity and to remain objective,” rea- season, which will be shown in Milan which leads to being more concrete.” soned Pilati. on Saturday. “There are Zegna’s specific feminine fabric that Despite the cerebral statements, Pilati is A sportsman, the designer explained codes, and tailoring is an important cate- tuned into reality and is conscious about how he enjoys skiing, running, cycling and gory, but here I’ve worked not only on the can also be masculine.” the male consumer’s daily requirements, bodybuilding, all to “move the concen- silhouettes but also on lighter construc- without the time or the opportunity to tration from abstract and intellectual tions. The construction becomes a detail of change throughout the day. He’s also aware problems to the body, which helps to be the look.” of their need for comfort and self-confi- more conscious of yourself, to build your Fluidity and lightness remain a must dence, as sportier looks are now widely self-confidence. You are not only intellect

from previous seasons for Pilati, as well accepted. At the same time, he cited “a and emotions but also body.” Pansini Paola by Giannoni; Fashion Giovanni by Pilati photograph

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in the 2014 financial results for the group, which saw sales decrease 4.7 percent to 1.21 billion euros, or $1.6 bil- lion, you underscored the contraction in China and Russia. Do you already Adding Zest see changes in the performance of these areas? How are you tackling these issues? The contraction in China and Russia is a fact that has affected our business. The slowdown in the Russian and Chinese To Zegna markets, including Hong Kong and Macau, persists and the important flow of Russian tourists has slowed down a lot in particular Gildo Zegna talks fashion evolution in . The Zegna Group, fortunately, is present and business expansion. in about 100 countries worldwide. We BY LUISA ZARGANI are working to strengthen our position in mature markets such as the United States, Korea, Japan and Australia where we have been present for some time, and to further develop our presence in Africa. We already n September 2012 Gildo Zegna, started that have been most successful have a retail presence in Egypt, Morocco chief executive officer of the Ermene- commercially, or in terms of visibility? and Nigeria, and a few weeks ago opened gildo Zegna Group, felt it was time to Ermenegildo Zegna Couture is designed a new store in Johannesburg, South Africa. “add a twist of fashion” to the com- and created by Stefano, for a Zegna client The next Zegna boutique will be in Angola. pany, known for its quality fabrics that did not exist before now. It’s a niche Our presence in Latin America remains and style, therefore also eyeing new collection with distribution limited to the firm with recent openings in Panama and consumers in emerging markets. To top Zegna worldwide boutiques to guar- Santiago, Chile. Mexico and Brazil show a this end, Zegna tapped Stefano Pilati, for- antee exclusivity. In terms of visibility, this positive trend. Imerly at Yves Saint Laurent, to start in Jan- project represents a turning point for the Which markets at the moment offer uary 2013 as creative director of Agnona, brand, offering the opportunity to present most potential to the group? What and head of design at Ermenegildo Zegna. a meaningful proposition to fashion-con- steps are you taking? Pilati was given responsibility for that scious customers. Successful items worth The strategy is twofold. On one hand, brand’s fashion shows as well as for the mentioning are the Broken Suit and the we are strengthening our network of Ermenegildo Zegna Couture collection, the couture that have become icons existing stores to increase their perfor- latter built on sartorial, hand-stitched of the couture collection. mance; on the other hand, we are evalu- in luxury fabrics. Two years into the new The latest Bain & Co. and Fondazi- ating new opportunities. We have recently course for the brand, Zegna discusses the one study sees a slowdown opened a global store in Ginza, Tokyo, and evolution of the business. in men’s wear, mainly determined by Melbourne, Australia. In the U.S.A., we lower growth in Asia, Macau and Hong opened in Miami’s Design District and will As the men’s shows are about to begin Kong in particular. As you commented Fall looks from be present in New York’s Brookfield Place Zegna. in Milan, do you think it’s a particular next November. A major project is sched- moment of buzz for the city and men’s uled in London at the end of 2016. wear fashion in general? How would you define the perfor- Yes. Both men’s and women’s fashion mance of the wholesale channel now? weeks are always a time of excitement for “The signing of Positive. Overall, Zegna is two-thirds the city thanks to the strong international Stefano Pilati retail and one-third wholesale if we look presence. This year in particular, there’s at worldwide sales; 50-50 in the United the added enthusiasm that Milan Expo is has given a more States. bringing. It’s very positive for the city, both We’re planning to stay the same, as the in terms of projects and initiatives, and the fashionable edge to performance at a wholesale level is quite increased presence of tourists from around satisfying and we entertain a splendid part- the world. Our Italian retail performance our collections.” nership with top North American retailers. has improved since the start of the Expo. It Gildo Zegna, ceo of Ermenegildo Zegna Group Is Italy showing signs of a pickup? is also a very special time for the evolution A gradual improvement led by a weak of men’s fashion in that men are willing to euro that together with the Milan Expo is try more and enjoy shopping more than bringing lots of visitors from all over the before. world. How has the relationship with Ste- Earlier this year, you referred to the fano Pilati evolved since his arrival and completion of the reorganization of what has he brought to the group and production that began in 2013. Could to the collections? you please provide additional details? The relationship has evolved well: Last year we made a significant invest- We have got to know each other better ment in , Italy, to strengthen the and appreciate our respective roles. The control of our industrial clothing chain that signing of Stefano Pilati has given a more led to a plant consolidation this year. fashionable edge to our collections, help- The companies that remain private ing us to attract a new type of consumer, and owned by families are increasingly interested in style-consciousness, with the fewer. How does the Zegna family con- sense for modern elegance, that demands tinue this way? high-quality products and exclusive We remain private and family con- fabrics. Zegna Couture has engaged these trolled. We do not contemplate any IPO. customers to a meaningful dialogue with We remain totally focused on our brand. the brand. How relevant are currencies for the What are the most immediate proj- group? Are you thinking of increasing ects with Pilati? What are the pros- prices? Are you thinking of modifying pects and strategies? them depending on the markets? Together with Stefano we have created The pricing policy will remain stable the concept of the New Leadership, which with minor adjustments for impulse buy- is a powerful image and direction we are ing products. Undoubtedly, he strength- developing throughout various activities. ening of the dollar will be beneficial given For fall, we are working on a new project that 90 percent of our business is based on for Japan for which Stefano has opened exports. the discourse to a new generation of style How is the digital development conscious, successful, charismatic and evolving for the group? inspiring personalities. It is an evolution of It is finally moving ahead. We are the New Leadership concept, introduced developing an omnichannel program that one year ago by the film “A Rose Reborn,” has started in a test country, and will be which highlighted a new masculine introduced gradually at a worldwide level elegance and aesthetic, expressed by the with an emphasis on providing innovative Broken Suit concept. services to our customers. Our digital mar-

What are the trends that he has keting investment is gaining share. Archive Fairchild from Giannoni; Zegna Giovanni by photographs Fashion

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The Umberto Angeloni, chairman, ceo and store in Milan majority shareholder of Raffaele Caruso reopened SpA, also said America leads the way in this week. terms of performance for the brand, but the company, which counts Chinese invest- ment group Fosun International Ltd. as a shareholder, continues to eye Asia, with plans to open a unit in Shanghai in June 2016 as well as a flagship in Tokyo. Angeloni cited a shift in consumer attitude, as shoppers reevaluate their loy- alty. “Quality is not enough if there is no value,” said Angeloni, adding that touting “heritage” is also no longer sufficient “if tradition is not relevant or perceived as true. Consumers are more astute and more evolved. Customers are not interested in extreme or volatile design, which is seen as marketing. Classic designs must also evolve Umberto Angeloni and innovate, never stand still.” Supporting that stance, Angeloni trumpeted 32 employees solely dedicated to research and development at Caruso. Pal Zileri ceo Paolo Roviera was espe- cially proud of the progress made in the group’s distribution and retail network under the company’s new owner, the Qatar-based Mayhoola for Investments. The brand’s newly refurbished store on Milan’s Via Manzoni reopened on June 16 with an additional VIP and made-to-measure room. Coming up Collections next are a unit in London, which will reopen in mid-July; two franchised, relocated stores at Milan the Dubai Mall of Emirates; a new location in Beirut, as well as cor- 2016 ners scheduled to open next year Milan’s Resurgence in Doha, Qatar; Kuwait City, Kuwait; and . “We also have acquired two new key clients: Saks and Beymen. I am very satis- fied, and we have finally [turned around our performance] with the spring 2016 Benefits Men’s Brands collection,” said Roviera, who joined the Italian men’s wear house a year ago and Men’s Fashion Week is Jean. As part of his project to support “efforts made in the past three years to has been revamping the label with the help young designers, Armani is lending his the- integrate ’s organization [within par- of designer Mauro Ravizza Krieger. happening amid a booming ater to Japanese brand Facetasm founded ent group Kering],” the goal is not about The executive was upbeat about the international expo. by Hiromichi Ochiai, which will show on repositioning the brand but rather “bring- men’s market and forecast a “positive Monday. is holding a men’s runway ing back its relevance in the market,” and trend” going forward. Roviera sees “a rein- BY LUISA ZARGANI show for the first time in Milan on Satur- leveraging its “very high legitimacy.” terpretation of the power suit, with a use of This season, the shows run concurrently day, and Croatian designer Damir Doma Flore said, following an internal reorga- formal elements, as there is a good portion with the city’s largest international event in is also premiering in town on Monday, nization and streamlining of processes, the of the world in which formal continues to nearly a century — the international Expo. moving his show from Paris. second half of the year will bring some big be worn as a work suit but in a different Before the Expo closes at the end of Another big arrival is Ralph Lauren, who announcements about planned expansion way, especially in those countries that are October, organizers expect more than 20 will hold a presentation for his spring men’s in the 2016 to 2018 period. key, such as Korea and Japan, for example.” million visitors to the fair, which centers Purple Label collection on Saturday at his The ceo said Brioni has seen “an After years of showing at Pitti Uomo in on the theme of nutrition and feeding the company’s palazzo. This is the first time the acceleration of results in the past three , Eleventy will hold its presen- planet. And the buzz created by the Expo brand has shown in Milan since its World of to four months,” citing a return of the tation in Milan on Sunday. In December, is trickling down to other industries — Ralph Lauren men’s wear show in fall 2003. “most loyal” Russians, who are “funda- private equity fund Vei Capital took a including fashion. “The reason for this,” Lauren said of the mental” customers for Brioni, as well as 51 percent stake in the Italian company “Milan is entering a very positive phase,” decision to show in Italy, “is exposure.” new clients. In particular, he pointed to a launched in 2007 by creative director said Michele Norsa, chief executive officer The spring 2016 collections are being significantly improving performance at the Marco Baldassari, Paolo Zuntini and Andrea of Salvatore Ferragamo, lamenting a long- unveiled against a backdrop of continuing brand’s Via Gesù boutique in Milan. Scuderi, with the goal to expand it inter- time lack of novelty in the city in terms of wobbles in the luxury sector because of art and architecture. “Expo has been the slower growth in markets such as China and “Expo has been the occasion to bring occasion to bring investments in infrastruc- Russia, which is in contrast to the strong ture to Milan and attention to the city, and increases brands are seeing in the U.S. investments in infrastructure to Milan and this is also touching the fashion world.” Kiton ceo Antonio De Matteis said he He cited an increasing number of tour- was “very satisfied with the performance” attention to the city.” ists from Asia, the U.S., China and Japan, of the brand and noted that sales of which is resulting in brisk business for his the label’s pre-collections “already had Michele Norsa, Salvatore Ferragamo brand, with ties, and belts among excellent feedback. We are very confident the top-performing categories. for 2015.” He pointed to America as a key According to the Worldwide Luxury Mar- market, and said Kiton The executive, who joined the firm last nationally. It is expected to close 2015 with kets Monitor 2015 Spring Update by Bain will open a store in Hous- November from , said Brioni a 35 percent increase in sales to 16 million & Co. and Fondazione Altagamma, Italy is ton in September. A unit has been attracting new shoppers who are euros, or $17.7 million at current exchange. starting to recover, with a slow rebound in San Francisco opened between five and 10 years younger than its Sergio Ravagli, managing partner of Palla- in the multibrand channel. Milan — lifted in April. average. , he said, is one of the dio Finanziaria, which manages Vei Capital, by initiatives associated with the Expo — is In terms of trends, De main categories attracting customers who said the objective is to reach revenues of 50 the number-one shopping destination. The Matteis said he continues are experiencing Brioni for the first time. million euros, or $55.5 million, in 2019. weak euro is also supporting tourism. to see young customers In terms of markets, he cited America Eleventy has signed a joint venture with With this as the backdrop, fashion week Antonio De Matteis build their wardrobes as “a pocket of excellence,” along with former Goldman Sachs & Co. banker Earl begins today with Dirk Bikkembergs’ with suits, sometimes Russia, Europe — Germany in particular — Rotman to expand in the U.S., and plans to evening show and ends Tuesday with embracing this look for the first time. and the Middle East. Brioni is “very new” open a flagship in SoHo and shops-in-shop Dsquared2, Giorgio Armani, Ermanno Gianluca Flore, ceo of Brioni, is also in China, hence it has not been impacted at Bloomingdale’s and Saks Fifth Avenue

Scervino, Christian Pellizzari and Stella optimistic about the future. He said after by the region’s slowdown, he noted. by the end of the year. Delbó Andrea by photograph DeMatteis

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Dean and Dan Caten get dapper for Dsquared2.

Feeling blue at No. 21.

READY, SET, GO! Designers prep for the start of the spring season in Milan. By ALESSANDRA TURRA

Pinning it down at Antonio Marras.

Angela Missoni It’s a clean slate plays with prints. at Damir Doma.

Neck inspection at Etro.

509 Madison Avenue New York Caten photograph by James Mason; No. 21, Etro and Marras by Giovanna Pavesi; Doma by Marcello Arena; Missoni by Andrea Delbò Andrea Missoni by Arena; Marcello Doma by Pavesi; Giovanna by and Marras Etro 21, Mason; No. James by photograph Caten

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(6) Pacifico Pacifico is a new restaurant in the Brera neighborhood that specializes in a blend of Asian and Peruvian cooking. The menu Milan includes revisited tiradito (a Peruvian dish of raw fish) and dim sum served with Peruvian sausages. Pacifico also features a private lounge and a Pisco Bar, where visitors can sample Pisco, a traditional Hot Peruvian liquor, as well as cocktails mixed with Holy, a special wellness drink. — E.M.

Pacifico, Via San Marco corner Via della Moscova, ARE ! From Tuesday to Saturday, from noon to 3 p.m., from 6 Spots p.m. to midnight, Sunday, from 6 p.m. to midnight +39-02-8724-4737 [email protected] wearepacifico.it Things to see and do in Fondazione ’s THEY ! downtime during the shows. New Headquarters

3 Located in a renovated distillery dating to (1) Moschino 1916, the new Prada foundation headquar- ters span more than 205,000 square feet. Located in the heart of Milan’s Porta Nuova Three buildings — Podium, Torre (“tower”) district, the city’s first Moschino flagship and Cinema, which transforms into an is 1,292 square feet and resolutely modern open-air theater — have been added to in design, with white walls, cement floors the existing seven. One of these, called and ample windows overlooking the street. “Haunted House,” is covered in gold leaves In keeping with creative director Jeremy and houses a permanent installation con- Scott’s concept of the store as a blank can- ceived by Robert Gober and includes two vas, the interior features suspended black works by Louise Bourgeois. chrome shelves, benches covered in black The foundation contains several leather and a monolithic stone bench. The exhibits, ranging from “Serial Classic,” store carries the Moschino ready-to-wear dedicated to classical sculptures, to WEARING collections for men and women, swim- “An Introduction,” which collects more wear, jewelry, perfume and tech accesso- 4 5 than 70 artworks, showing the different ries. — Eleonora Molesti inspirations that led and Moschino, Via Vincenzo Capelli, 1 From Monday to her husband Patrizio Bertelli to create the Sunday, from 10:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. +39-02-3668- foundation. Among the pieces on display 7099 [email protected] are works from the Sixties by the likes of moschino.com Yves Klein and Piero Manzoni; a “Madonna del Bauhaus” from 2012 by contemporary (2) L.B.M. 1911 artist Francesco Vezzoli shown on an engraved wooden cabinet from the late Mantova-based luxury brand Lubiam 15th century, and works by Jeff Koons, opened its first flagship dedicated to Lucio Fontana, Roy Lichtenstein and L.B.M. 1911 on May 1. Located in the heart Mario Schifano. The last part of this group of Milan’s fashion district, the two-level includes a selection of cars reworked by boutique is more than 1,615 square feet and artists including Carsten Höller, Rosema- carries ready-to-wear and accessories such PITTI UOMO FLORENCE rie Trockel, Gianni Piacentino and Sarah as bags, shoes and foulards, some created Lucas. exclusively for the store. The interior The complex also includes the Acca- design recalls a jungle metropolis, drawing 6 demia dei Bambini, the foundation’s first inspiration from New York, São Paulo and Extreme dandy, project created specifically for children Berlin, with a mix of vintage and contempo- that conducts multidisciplinary activities, rary furnishings. Some of the older pieces and the Bar Luce, designed by film director Japanese utilitarian and belong to Lubiam’s Bianchi family and were Wes Anderson in the style of a traditional chosen to create a continuum between the Milanese café. — E.M. designer streetwear all firm’s past and present. An opening cocktail is slated for fashion week. — E.M. Prada Foundation, Largo Isarco, 2, From coexist seamlessly at L.B.M. 1911, Via della Spiga, 30, From Tuesday to Monday to Sunday, from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m, Saturday, from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Monday and Sunday, +39-02-5666-2612, visit.milano@fondazione- from 3 to 7 p.m. +39-02-8725-0355 spiga@lbm1911. prada.org, fondazioneprada.org Pitti’s fashion arena. it lbm1911.it Arvi’s Framesi Boutique Photographs by KUBA DABROWSKI (3) Fashion as Social Energy Arvi’s Framesi Boutique, a new concept “Fashion as social energy,” a new exhibit salon tucked inside a stately courtyard on at Palazzo Morando, encourages visitors Viale Montegrappa, opened quietly six to consider the ways in which fashion months ago. Founders Sabrina Arvizzigno expresses different facets of modern and Patrizia Annovazzi want it to remain life — from multiculturalism to intense an oasis of calm, where customers can consumerism. pamper themselves and receive the undi- The exhibition was organized by vided attention of a small team of beauty Connecting Cultures, a nonprofit agency professionals in a sleek setting outfitted researching the ethical fashion movement, with Japanese furnishings. With Made in and the city of Milan, with the support of (4) Excelsior Hotel Gallia (5) Gong Italy hair and skin products from Framesi the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana Milan’s Excelsior Hotel Gallia reopened The Chinese Liu family recently opened and Bioline, and nail polish from Estrosa, and the region, in partnership its doors in May after a restoration by the Gong, its third Milanese restaurant on Corso Arvi’s offers a full range of services, from with Ermenegildo Zegna. Marco Piva architecture studio. Thanks Concordia, near Piazza Risorgimento. Din- massages and haircuts to manicures and Curated by Connecting Cultures pres- to a new wing, the hotel now has meet- ers will find a mix of Chinese and Japanese makeup consultations, and even personal ident Anna Detheridge and art historian ing rooms, a rooftop bar and restaurant, delicacies — say, cherry shrimp tartare, or a shopping assistance. Gabi Scardi, the exhibition features work and the first Italian Shiseido Spa, which dim sum composition — all whipped up by A corner for men features a vintage bar- from 14 international artists. spans the sixth and seventh floors. With chef Keisuke Koga and his team. The wine ber’s chair, while a special recliner in the — E.M. 235 rooms, including 53 suites, the hotel list is the work of sommelier Mototsugu massage room is positioned above a sink, features more than 500 pieces of artwork Hayashi. The decor features numerous making it possible to enjoy a shampoo Fashion as Social Energy, Palazzo Morando, Via selected to match the building’s “Belle onyx gongs, symbols of rebirth. — E.M. while lying down. — Cynthia Martens Sant’Andrea, 6, From Tuesday to Sunday, from 9 a.m. to Epoque” style. — E.M. 1 p.m., from 2 to 7:30 p.m., Thursday, from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m., Gong, Corso Concordia, 8, From Tuesday to Sunday, Arvi’s Framesi Boutique, From Tuesday to Saturday, from 2 to 9 p.m., Through Aug. 30 +39-02-8918-1326 Excelsior Hotel Gallia, Piazza Duca D’Aosta, 9 from 12:15 to 2:40 p.m., from 7:30 to 11:40 p.m. from 10 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., Monday, from noon to 7 p.m., [email protected] +39-02-67851 [email protected] +39-02-7602-3873 [email protected] Viale Montegrappa, 16 +39-02-6208-7128 info@

fashionasocialenergy.org excelsiorhotelgallia.com gongmilano.it arvismilano.com www.arvismilano.com Art Collection UniCredit Art Productions, Contemporary Soffiantino Franco courtesy Number 3 photograph

0619DAILY_14_Scene.indd 14 6/18/15 6:03 PM 0619DAILY_15_TAW.indd 2 6/18/15 4:42 PM 16 20 JUNE 2015 20 JUNE 2015 17 MILAN!SPECIAL!EDITION MILAN!SPECIAL!EDITION Pressing the Flesh at Pitti Archivio The Italian trade fair is Omogene URI MINKOFF becoming more of a spot DESIGNER: Uri Minkoff to see and be seen. INSPIRATION: The sleek and modern accessories brand (formerly known BY ALEX BADIA, PAULINA SZMYDKE Collections as Ben Minkoff), marries style with AND ALESSANDRA TURRA function well. Created with young tech entrepreneurs in mind, its line of Dita FLORENCE — The question on the lips of Pitti Uomo shoppers, and backpacks is big on many who visited Uomo compartments. “Nothing should be in a during its four-day run here this week, was: 2016 guy’s pockets, because it’s not flattering “Has the bellwether trade show become the to the body,” said the designer. ultimate branding exercise for men’s?” KEY STYLES: Minkoff’s ultrasupple Harmont & Blaine seemed to think so. The deerskin backpack is a bestseller, as Italian casualwear firm took its trademark are his inventive weekenders, featuring dachshund logo to the streets — literally, as separate compartments for dirty the label’s preppy-chic brand ambassadors laundry and shoes that are tucked away paraded a bunch of bow-wows up and down at the bottom of the bags, so that “all the square of the fortezza. Needless to say, housed is safe and clean.” ARCHIVIO DITA they were impeccably styled, already sport- PRICES: Pieces retail for between $295 INSPIRATION: Men’s wear veteran DESIGNERS: Longtime friends Jeff Solorio ing the label’s spring 2016 collection. and $550, available through Nordstrom, Romano Ridolfi launched Archivio three and John Juniper Exhibitors more than ever infiltrated the Saks Fifth Avenue and Harvey Nichols. seasons ago. “My taste was always very KEY STYLES: The Mach One, a pair of show’s open-air piazza with professional The brand’s first collection is to hit much linked with the Forties and Fifties slightly squared shades done in gold- models and “friends of the house” giving a stores in August. Think lightweight leather aesthetic,” said Ridolfi, who focuses plated titanium, which has convinced preview of what’s to come, causing camera as comfy as a pair of espadrilles. on a sophisticated style infused with Lewis Hamilton among others. From lights to flash more often than on the red a sense of relaxed ease. Refusing to next season onward, the label will run carpet of a star-studded blockbuster. follow trends, as he admitted, Ridolfi numbered limited editions of 300 to First-time Pitti exhibitor Dita said it was combines more casual elements with a 1,000 pieces each. Dita is also the official precisely the fair’s attitude that drew its deconstructed sartorial look. licensee for Thom Browne Eyewear. attention. “We did not come here to sell. Uri Minkoff KEY STYLE: The spring 2016 collection INSPIRATION: Each part, from the nose We are here to show our face and make our includes chic suits defined by loose pad to the screw, is produced for Dita brand known to the fashion industry, which silhouettes and soft fabric with a slightly by a fleet of 100 artisans in Japan. A pair accounts for only 20 percent of our business rustic feel, as well as a range of pieces takes six to eight months to make. The versus optical retail,” explained Rosario Tos- featuring references, such as only metal used is titanium, which is also cano of the L.A.-based luxury eyewear label. a cool cotton . hypoallergenic. “It’s a convenient way to expand our PRICES: Wholesale prices range from 69 PRICES: From $345 for Japanese acetate brand presence,” he added, citing strong euros, or $79, to 120 euros, or $137, for frames to $800. The Mach One goes double-digit growth. “In 2014, our sales pants, while go from 169 euros, for $660. were up 49 percent. This year, we are look- or $192, to 200 euros, or $228. CONTINUED ON PAGE 18 ing to grow another 35 percent, aiming at $100 million by 2017.” Scotch & Soda didn’t even bother to bring its new spring collection. Instead, the Dutch casualwear label, which has been PAIKAJI VOLUME PANTS TWO TONE EYEWEAR TEXTURED notoriously shy about communicating its INSPIRATION: Established in 1980, Paikaji x Nick Wooster Clan Milan LINEN brand identity to the press, opted for a is a Japanese brand that specializes in mini-museum dedicated to its history and the production of Aloha . The aesthetics, giving a glimpse of its prover- label, which exclusively uses fabrics bial Dutch explorer spirit, love of produced in Japan, manufactures and vintage-inspired patterns. everything on the southern island of “We are always trying to be a little differ- Okinawa. ent, because people expect that from us, KEY STYLES: Along with traditional and what better platform could there be? Hawaiian patterns, Paikaji shirts — some AGED Pitti is a theater, and we like it that way,” of them sold with coordinated short BELTS said Alex Jaspers, Scotch & Soda’s interna- pants — also feature more graphic and Felisi tional sales director. unconventional motifs, always infused with “Both our wholesale and retail businesses OMOGENE PRICES: retail at 250 euros, or $285, a tropical, vibrant vibe. For spring 2016, UTILITY are very dynamic. It’s less about business INSPIRATION: One of the finalists of suede shirts at 450 euros, or $513, and the brand introduced buttonless polos, ELEMENTS now, all about emotion. A few seasons ago, the last edition of Vogue’s Who Is On intarsia at 540 euros, or $616. including an orange and purple style in K100 Trending Now by Nigel people were looking for a quick fix, now Next? talent contest, Monte Carlo-based a classic maxi hibiscus pattern, which is Cabourn they want a strong product,” he said, citing Alexis Giannotti launched men’s wear SOLOVIÈRE crafted from cotton used inside-out. The must-haves from the show. the firm’s plans to open a dozen new mono- label Omogene in 2013. Positioned DESIGNER: Alexia Aubert PRICE RANGE: Wholesale prices range from brand units before year-end, including in the luxury segment of the market, INSPIRATION: Founded in 2014, the 80 euros, or $91, to 100 euros, or $114. Miami, Los Angeles and Australia. the label’s aesthetic is brand’s motto is “less trend, more style,” SUMMER SPORTY Solovière TRENCH Maud Tarena, commercial director of the infused with a range of said Aubert, who started her career with CASUAL CARROT Paikaji men’s wear department at Le Bon Marché, influences, including Christian Louboutin, before becoming SEPARATES Massimo agreed that the men’s industry was moving Nineties’ culture, music studio director at Pierre Hardy and head Brunello Closed Piombo Cucinelli away from flashy new trends and toward and skateboarding. of footwear at Oscar de La Renta. “I was more quality and originality. “This is a strong Giannotti translates bored with the seasons and with product edition, although there has been no real these into edgy that is disposable. What we surprises here. It’s about continuity, really,” collections blending wanted instead was the TUNIC she observed of this season’s exhibition. the boundaries simplest style you can SHIRTS The French department store’s men’s between formalwear and imagine with a little bit of Gitman stylist, Virginie Sartres, meanwhile, casualwear. pop,” she said. Vintage noted that looking outside the booths KEY STYLE: For spring, KEY STYLES: Easy was sometimes as crucial as looking for Giannotti was inspired by the calfskin leather - TASSEL SHOE trends inside. “We have been taking a lot solitary journeys of trackers ons and extralight Rivolta of pictures,” she said, citing stripes and across the United States. lace-up loafers done earthy colors, smart utility jackets and big Sophisticated intarsia sweaters in suede have already shoppers as next season’s must-haves. showed landscapes at sunset, been dubbed the Some cautioned against the growing while chic leather or suede shirts “antisneaker.” “I say, theatrics. “This blogger phenomenon were finished with buttons referencing they are for the Nineties’ performs well, but it’s getting too much,” cars’ chrome-pleated details. The skater who has grown up,” lamented Hirofumi Kurino, United collection also included short pants in she mused. This season’s styles come in Arrows’ chief creative director. “People a high-end soft fabric with a Neoprene- multicolor checks and soft earthy colors. just want to show off. This kills the culture like effect, lightweight silk and cotton PRICES: , the pairs range of fashion. The energy goes into show-off denim pants, as well as crafted between 275 euros, or $309 at current Solovière and Paikaji photographs by Davide Maestri by photographs and Paikaji Solovière design, instead of creation.” from leather or an iridescent fabric. exchange, and 395 euros, or $444. David Maestri by and Piombo photographs Rivolta Cucinelli, Closed, Isaia, Felisi, Cabourn, Milan, Archivio,

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CONTINUED FROM PAGE 17

Ulturale ULTURALE JECKERSON DESIGN: Traditional DESIGN: Italian pants Neapolitan tie company specialist Jeckerson is Ulturale, a first-time expanding its product exhibitor at Pitti Uomo, offering. The brand is relaunching under has signed a five-year the guidance of a group licensing agreement of Milanese investors with Como-based who teamed up to company Canepa revamp the brand and to launch its first Jeckerson inject it with a new twist. beachwear collection, Focused on the production of a high- which made its debut at Pitti Uomo. end, artisanal product offering, Ulturale’s Canepa will handle the production and collections feature a range of tie options, the distribution of the line, which is from more classic seven-fold styles to slim expected to be available in about 350 variations with a sleek design. stores within two seasons. KEY STYLES: For spring, Ulturale KEY STYLES: The first collection introduced denim ties, and channeled a includes swim shorts, available in two maritime inspiration, printing anchors lengths, printed with micro geometric on a gray style. Paying homage to the prints in a vibrant color palette brand’s Neapolitan origins, some ties inspired by the Moorish architecture of come with a tiny good-luck horn-shaped Portugal’s Algarve region. charm hidden behind the folds. PRICE RANGE: Swim shorts retail from PRICE RANGE: Retail prices starts from 40 euros, or $45, to 120 euros, D’Amico 100 euros, or $114. or $137. D’AMICO DESIGNER: Andrea D’Amico INSPIRATION: D’Amico and his team prefer to call themselves a band rather than a brand. Others refer to them as “gentlemen riders.” D’Amico’s Collections motorbike-inspired leather accessories add both color and hardware to a clean sartorial look. Pitti Uomo KEY STYLES: Although the brand started out with belts as its main category, 2016 today it’s the bracelets and edgy pocket chains done in a plethora of materials, including leather, horn, silver, beads and semiprecious stones, that drive the label’s sales. PRICES: Wholesale prices start at 30 euros, or $33. The brand boasts 300 points of sales, with 70 percent of business done abroad, mostly in Northern Europe, Japan and South Korea. LA PAZ DESIGNERS: André Bastos Teixeira and José Miguel de Abreu INSPIRATION: Founded in 2011, the Porto, Portugal-based brand relies on MOSCHINO the Atlantic coast for inspiration. With a strong focus on natural fibers, the ready- The line between the eccentric and to-wear line centers on easy, versatile the tacky is very fine, and season pieces, including ultrasoft terry cloth after season, Jeremy Scott has demonstrated his skill at walking sweaters and airy crepe-cotton summer that tightrope of taste. shirts. Only swimwear items resort to Armed with a volcanic creativ- technical fabrics. ity and a witty irony, Scott has KEY STYLE: Colorful rice stitch knits and transformed the Moschino brand playfully printed shirts. into a new entity, and the men’s PORTS 1961 PRICES: The line retails for between 40 collection he showcased in Flor- euros, or $45, for a T- and 220 euros, ence’s historic Palazzo Corsini or $247, for a jacket at the Content Store in is the fruit of this process. “It’s about the traveler,” said Milan Vuk- Channeling inspirations mirovic of his first spring collection for London and Wait in Paris, among others. that ranged from Giovanni Ports 1961, which he presented under the Casanova and Louis XVI Tuscan sun. A picturesque piazza in Flor- to the Moto GP, Scott ence, overlooking the Arno river, served as a backdrop for a volley of laid-back city created a fun, irrev- La Paz erent collection that looks, targeted for the globe-trotting male. shattered the boundar- The designer sent a gang of voyagers to ies between casual and the beach in patchwork denim shirts and formal. comfy carrot (surf boards naturally True to his own rules, tucked under their arms), and paired them the American designer with a series of tailored and created a world of excess Bermuda .“Fashion is like music: where noncoherent elements It depends on your mood,” explained happily coexist. embellished with Vukmirovic, alluding to the fact that a motorcycle race suit logos were juxta- guy’s personal taste can quickly change, posed with decorated with gold depending on where his travels take him. embroideries, while a cotton shirt and “When I’m in L.A. I suddenly start wearing coordinated denim pants were printed suede, just can’t escape it, while Berlin with images of precious gems. Scott also pushes me toward black.” introduced a note of decadent roman- Naturally, his proposition for spring ticism in the lineup via pieces crafted had ethnic Kilim T-shirts peacefully from opulent brocades, such as a coexisting with multipocket utility jackets with zippers that transforms into a biker and technical . Throughout, the jacket. silhouettes were relaxed, while color- Everything was over-the-top and exag- blocking added visual appeal. gerated, including the massive crowns The cast mixed pros with regular guys sported by models, reminiscent of the — picture Nick Wooster and Eugene Tong Burger King monarch. catwalking down the piazza. — ALESSANDRA TURRA — PAULINA SZMYDKE stefanoricci.com Paz, Moschino, Ports, Ulturale and D’Amico photographs by Davide Maestri by photographs and D’Amico Ulturale Ports, Moschino, Paz,

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