WWDMADEINITALY SECTION II

Strong Ties Italian brands are taking aggressive steps to keep the factories and artisan studios humming all along the production pipeline.

PLUS NEW TECHNOLOGIES AND TECHNIQUES RESTORING ’S NATIONAL TREASURES FIGHTING THE FAKERS PHOTO BY GIULIANO BERARDUCCI PHOTO BY

4 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 21 , 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD

Who visited in 2013? Visiting Milan Here’s a breakdown: Fast Facts By Nationalities TOURISTS: 4.5 MILLION Up 3.9 percent from 2012 RUSSIA: 114,188 : 87,314 : 83,766 UK: 74,992 : 84,520 GERMANY: UNITED STATES: 86,399 UNITED STATES: : 74,778

By Gender By Age Traveling as

Male Female 31 to 45 years Singles 19 to 30 years other Families Groups SOURCE: CORRIERE DELLA SERA

Number of people around the world who spend 100,000 euros ($137,000) each on luxury 150,000 products and services annually. Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. SOURCE: BAIN & CO. AND AND IL SOLE 24 ORE PHOTO BY SAKIS LALASPHOTO BY

beauty, electronic goods, automotive label and scored fifth in the overall And Luxury Ranking and fashion. ranking behind France, Germany and Made in USA ranked at the top Japan, second, third and fourth, re- Which is the most influential “Made USA is the most respected prov- in categories of personal care and spectively. In” nation of the world at the cash enance of production, with consum- beauty and fashion, with consumers Not surprisingly, Made in Italy register? ers influenced by its labeling as a believing the Made In USA label to be scored second in both fashion and food According to a study by purchase driver when graded against better than products in those catego- and drink categories, and third in the FutureBrand, which canvassed 1,000 other nations in a number of sectors, ries manufactured by other countries. luxury category, behind number-one global consumers in 2014, Made in including food, personal care and Made in Italy remains a valued Switzerland and number-two France.

FINAL RANK FOOD AND DRINK PERSONAL CARE AUTOMOTIVE ELECTRONICS FASHION LUXURY & BEAUTY

1 USA France USA Germany Japan USA Switzerland 2 France Italy France Japan USA Italy France 3 Germany Switzerland USA Germany France Italy 4 Japan USA U.K. Italy South Korea U.K. U.K. 5 Italy Japan Germany U.K. China Japan USA 6 U.K. Germany Japan France Sweden Sweden Japan 7 Switzerland U.K. Italy Sweden Finland Spain Germany 8 Sweden Switzerland Australia South Korea Canada Germany Belgium 9 China Turkey Sweden China Taiwan Turkey Sweden 10 South Korea Belgium Thailand India Italy China Spain

6 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MADE IN ITALY Propping Up the Pipeline If the smaller cogs in Italy’s production wheel are not maintained, the entire system faces a dire fate. By Luisa Zargani

PIPELINE. pating in the success of the brand,” The term, usually associated with oil has sometimes bought raw Norsa remarked. “We have relation- or water transportation, might sound materials to help suppliers in dire ships that last as long as 40 years, and remote when it comes to the luxury de- straits that could not provide cash we are very proud of the solidity of our signs craved by fashion consumers. in advance to secure the fabrics. pipeline, all maintained in Italy.” Yet — the suppliers’ pipeline, en- also relies on skilled suppli- compassing the hundreds of factories ers that have been working with the and small and mid-sized suppliers -based company for more than throughout Italy working with fashion 40 years, said ceo Pietro Beccari. As brands, is essential to the survival of the brand continues to grow, Fendi is the Made in Italy label. “also integrating small ateliers and From raw material to finished prod- their know-how for continuity,” such as uct, countless hands weave, draw, cut, a maroquinerie (leather specialist) in stitch, dye, wash, iron, fold, check, Porto San Giorgio in the Marche region. package, ship and service looks for cus- Considering himself a custodian of the tomers around the world. brand, Beccari said it was “a duty to As the country continues to be pass on the company in the best possi- weighed down by economic and po- ble way for those who will come next.” litical instability — the latest being the Tod’s chairman and chief executive ascension of the young pro-business officer Diego Della Valle has long been Florentine mayor Matteo Renzi to be- vocal about supporting Italy and its web come the next prime minister, repre- of producers, urging his peers to give senting the third new government in a back. One of the first entrepreneurs to year — high costs of energy and labor, build a kindergarten within his com- PHOTO BY SANDRO MICHAHELLES PHOTO BY unemployment and a credit crunch, a pany, he has donated a school, helped complicated, byzantine bureaucracy petitive interest rates. ’s supplier port the pipeline’s small companies employees with bonuses, and last year and a punitive fiscal system, Italy’s evaluations are factored into decisions. precisely because they are small. revealed the donation of 1 percent of pipeline is at risk. International and Also, last year, Renzo Rosso, owner “Bankers say there is too much paper- profits to activities in the Marche. entrepreneurs real- of OTB, which controls firms including work for too little money, it’s too much “Ours is a simple logic of solidarity ize steps need to be taken to keep this Staff International and Diesel, present- hassle, and they don’t want to deal with that our group has always brought for- pipeline alive and functioning, to en- ed a new initiative called CASH, which it. For each operation in a bank, they ex- ward. We believe that for a two-way re- sure the industry’s survival. stands for Credito Agevolato [facilitated pect more than 20 signatures from you. lationship of respect, individuals that “We have always leveraged and be- credit] Suppliers Help, to support a Who reads them? What are they for?” he work with us at all levels should work lieved in the production variables, at group of small and mid-sized Italian lamented. “Micro-credit does not work in in the best possible way in a dignified a time when they were not seen as rel- companies. The entrepreneur signed an Italy, they don’t even take you into consid- location and with all the possible sup- evant as the name of the brand or mar- agreement with Ifitalia, of BNP Paribas eration if you are small.” port by the company,” said Della Valle. keting, for example,” said Franco Pené, Group, that allows Staff International The Veneto-based Staff International “We also believe that it is important chairman of Gibò, which produces col- suppliers easier and speedier access produces collections for brands includ- for companies to help the country in a lections for brands including Jean Paul to credit, for a total value of 50 mil- ing Maison Martin Margiela, Viktor & complicated moment. For this reason Gaultier, Roberto Cavalli, Rochas and lion euros, or $68.7 million at current Rolf, Dsquared2, Vivienne Westwood, we have earmarked a part of our prof- Michael Kors. “Production has increas- exchange, at interest rates in line with and Just Cavalli. its to support people that need it more, ingly become an asset brands cannot those provided to OTB. In 2009, Gucci inked a deal with while respecting the institutions.” overlook in a country where people Staff obtains the line of credit and local associations and unions to en- Della Valle is equally outspoken used to believe there were never going makes it available to suppliers of the hance and promote the pipeline. It was about the absence of political strategies to be manufacturing problems. Instead, entire pipeline, from those that pro- a gesture of patronage, and made sense in the country. “It’s a very long story — those that were not positioned in the vide raw materials, fabrics and acces- for economic and social sustainability. a book should be written about it — but high-end range have been hurt.” sories to those providing production or Addressing the latter, Francesco we could say that for too many years, Last year, Gucci partnered with end products, and factories. The credit Pesci, ceo of luxury men’s wear brand we have been managed by incompetent Banca CR Firenze, part of the Intesa is handed out on the basis of a Staff Brioni, believes help should be directed people, without the necessary vision to Sanpaolo Group, to offer companies International evaluation system. to those suppliers “that operate abiding project Italy in a competitive European that are part of the Italian luxury firm’s “This means that our subcontrac- by the rules of safety and total transpar- scenario and especially without ethical finished leather goods supply chain tors have a high standard of quality. It’s ency. It’s not only about a product — and moral values to guide our country. — a network of more than 600 firms a fantastic project, and our relation- consumers today are very sensitive to Naturally, there are also exceptions; — easier access to credit from banks. ship with them becomes tighter,” said ecological and social sustainability.” unfortunately there are few.” The bank and Gucci share information Rosso, revealing that he is developing a While conceding profit is a neces- Della Valle concluded by praising to support suppliers and subsuppliers similar project, “but expanded.” sity for any business, Pesci believes the any initiatives that support small and providing customized benefits and com- Rosso said banks often do not sup- relationship with any supplier must mid-sized Made in Italy firms. “We never be one of exploitation. must absolutely keep their skills and “We must guarantee continuity and relevant characteristics alive.” An artist at work designing protection,” said the executive, add- The Missoni family and the territory prints in a Pucci studio. ing that the company has sometimes in Sumirago, near Italy’s , are bought raw materials to help suppliers also entwined in a two-way relationship, in dire straits that could not provide said Alberto Piantoni, ceo of the brand. cash in advance to secure the fabrics. “The land and its values depend “Fashion companies often try to on and refer to the Missoni family and avoid buying fabrics to minimize their their way of life,” said Piantoni. “The risks,” he said. Missonis have a unified line of conduct.” While the executive lamented the Relying on local suppliers, the family lack of industrial direction provided by has often financially supported a num- Italy’s politicians, he remains optimis- ber of firms facing difficulties, and sped tic: “Italians don’t need a revolution, up payments. “They are our strength just a dose of normalcy and stability, so and without them we would face a tre- that entrepreneurs are able to work.” mendous loss,” reasoned the executive. Establishing continuity with one’s Ethical issues were top of mind for chain of suppliers was hailed by execu- Umberto Angeloni, ceo of Caruso. “The tives including Michele Norsa, ceo of first thing that big companies and brands Salvatore Ferragamo. “Our double-dig- should do to guarantee the survival of it increases in sales and in production small suppliers is to ensure an adequate of our core shoes and leather catego- profit margin and the certainty of con- ries over the past three years have ben- tinuous work,” he said. Angeloni de- efited our suppliers and allowed them nounced the “malpractice” of pressuring to consolidate their activities, partici- {Continued on page 8}

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WWD MADE IN ITALY Propping Up the Pipeline 4 QUESTIONS WITH... {Continued from page 6} Aeffe, also doesn’t see “a more global world as for lower prices, sometimes so much so that these a scandal. There are countries that are capable don’t even cover direct costs, and of putting suppli- of developing certain crafts, and it is important PATRIZIO BERTELLI ers in competition with one another “by keeping to be very attentive to culture and education, but The Group chief executive officer discusses his perspec- them in a precarious situation,” which has deter- creativity cannot have a passport.” tive on Italy’s supply chain and the struggles it faces in light of mined “the failure of many small artisanal and fam- However, Ferretti touted Italy’s suppliers political, global and economic challenges. ily companies.” unique skills in mastering the challenge “to man- Larger companies are vertically integrating so age creativity,” as only certain companies are WWD: What should Italian business leaders be doing to support that the pipeline survives, but with “few indepen- “capable of realizing the dream of a designer. small and medium–size enterprises? dent operators, who instead represent the more Fashion is not only a sketch, it’s the fit, the fab- Patrizio Bertelli: “Over the past 10 years, as globalization has vivacious part of it.” rics, how they are treated, it’s an education that spread and the markets of the BRIC countries have steadily The executive complained about how “the Italian can’t be improvised. The interpretation of the grown, nothing has been done to address the problem of how economy is not favorable to the survival of small and project makes the difference.” small and medium enterprises should handle the onslaught mid-sized companies.” He believes it is “impossible” Accordingly, Ferretti underscored the need to of competition on the for entrepreneurs to tackle and overcome the coun- help suppliers who are facing “great difficulties cost of labor front: try’s many obstacles and shortcomings. today,” since their talent is what “makes the dif- There should have “The companies that differentiate themselves ference. We cannot risk losing them.” One way is been a stronger shift in for quality, innovation and efficiency and that can to pay them promptly, he said. Aeffe, which con- production toward su- compete in the global market would deserve to be trols the Alberta Ferretti, Moschino and Pollini perior quality products defended,” he said. Instead, to channel public brands and produces collections for labels includ- incorporating high-end money toward companies “that are inefficient and ing Emanuel Ungaro and Cédric Charlier, works know-how. obsolete represents a menace to the healthy ones.” with about 100 small and mid-sized suppliers from “As globalization Italian politicians, he concluded, “have an enor- the Veneto, Emilia Romagna and Marche regions. has advanced, Prada mous historical responsibility for this situation, but A flow of orders throughout the year and has more than doubled the entrepreneurs could not foresee this deteriora- speedy payments are ways to show “respect for its turnover and our tion, nor know how to react accordingly. It’s useless our suppliers and their need for liquidity,” said whole supply chain has to hope that politicians will be able to heal so many Luca Bertolini, ceo of Les Copains, noting that benefited from this. Big corporations should have done more to help smaller ones, securing their growth, which is something that Prada has done all the way along its supply chain. “The issues faced by small and medium enterprises have been further complicated by: a) Bureaucratic complexity; b) The failure to reach international markets when internal consump- tion in Europe has, for all intents and purposes, been struggling since 2008; the only boost coming from tourism; c) The dif- ficulty obtaining credit, both due to the crisis in the banking system and failure to present credible projects; d) The tax sys- tem in Italy, which is too much of a burden for businesses and private citizens, [and] e) A frozen economic system, unable to reap the benefits, as it did in the past, of inflation or deflation making businesses more competitive on international markets.”

WWD: Some of your colleagues criticize our politicians for doing nothing about this. What do you think about this? [This interview was conducted before the pro-business mayor of , Matteo Tod’s chief Diego Della Valle was one of the Rienzi, was tapped to become the country’s next Prime Minister.] first entrepreneurs to build a kindergarten P.B.: “Our political system is floundering, it has been for more within his company to help his workers. than 20 years, and Italy’s national debt has made it impos- sible to pass laws to reduce the tax burden on private citizens and businesses. shortcomings because the need to make money suppliers are paid within 30 to 90 days. “It’s an “This debt was, and still is, strangling the Italian economy: overcomes any other goal, and the bureaucratic ethical issue. This is a country where average Any measures introduced, such as a tax wedge to cut income machine is clogged with too many inadequate peo- payments are made after 300 days. Italy can’t sur- tax withheld on employee pay by 10 percent, needs cover that ple for our times and the global economy.” vive this. There is limited access to credit, and has never been found. That said, several foreign companies are not there are companies that go bust with orders in “It’s a vicious circle: less money, less spending, less con- discouraged by the challenges of Italy’s economy hand because they have no access to funds that sumption, less production. and issues, from powerful groups such as LVMH would allow them to finance their development. “So, we can only hope that the new reforms being drafted in Moët and to sto- “It makes no sense. We are proud to be a com- Parliament will speed up change in the manufacturing system.” ried German ceramics firm Meissen. The porce- pany that pays the same way it did 20 years ago, lain company’s ceo, Christian Kurtzke, praised the in terms of timing.” WWD: To secure the supply chain’s future, some businesses in expertise of Italian manufacturers, noting that, in Les Copains is controlled by Mario Bandiera’s Italy, such as Gucci and Diesel, are working to ensure their sup- Germany, small and mid-sized companies “are BVM, based in Bologna, which also produces col- pliers have access to credit. Does Prada do this too? very isolated, and rarely collaborate with each lections for Giambattista Valli. P.B. “Prada has always supported its supply chain, helping out other. It’s difficult to establish a cooperation.” Gianguido Tarabini, sole administrator of businesses in trouble or in development on many occasions. On the other hand, he said, in Italy, “there is Blumarine parent company Blufin, said his com- “But the best help we have given is to make our ‘produc- a network approach and smaller companies col- pany also works with around 100 suppliers in tion partners’ involved in the growth of the brand to make laborate, each with their unique set of compe- Italy. “We often act as a bank — also with our them feel proud to be a part of it. Each and every worker must tencies.” Meissen is developing couture, jewelry wholesalers that have been hit by the crisis,” said know what they are working on and what the requirements are and furniture collections produced in Italy and Tarabini. “Our priority is to continue to guaran- for the product they are creating. has based its headquarters for these divisions in tee ongoing production and regular payments.” “Our suppliers have never had any problem obtaining credit Milan. “We are investing in this country because The executive expressed concerns about the insomuch as the continuity of their relationship with Prada, in we are looking at it long-term, regardless of its future. “Germany is our main industrial competi- some cases as long as 20 years, has always been a guarantee specific problems. We look at the essence, its fun- tor, and if things continue this way, I don’t see a for the banking system. damental creativity and lifestyle and nobody can beautiful future for our country.” “We have never gone in for window-dressing, but we know take that away. Italy’s is unique Gibò’s Pené conceded that the quality of the our banks have never failed to support our production partners.” and has a long-term perspective.” chain of suppliers and subcontractors has over Laudomia Pucci, vice president and image the years diminished because older artisans have WWD: What are the biggest challenges facing small and medium- director of , controlled by LVMH, not been replaced and that a number of compa- sized enterprises, today and in the future? Do you think the Italian conceded that “the pipeline is born here, but it’s nies had to close down, but noted that Italy “re- supply chain will survive the economic crisis? tough to maintain it and the family dimension is mains the country where there is the most excel- P.B.: “I think the Italian supply chain will only survive if it no longer enough.” lence for luxury production. This is a winning makes radical changes to improve the quality of its products She believes firms “must find new business card, the value today is achieved through the and to grow, instead of waiting for the government to step in. models in a system that needs encouragement industry and not with services nor with banks. “It should be pointed out that on top of the economic with enlightened entrepreneurs,” and touted We have a clear and transparent relation with crisis, we also have a generational crisis, the old guard hav- the “healthy evolution with acquisitions among our subcontractors and we have never changed ing lost the motivation to keep going: we need a new wave of European firms, to strengthen their dimen- a subcontractor because someone else cost less. young entrepreneurs willing to go into business, as happened sion and concentrate knowledge and know-how. We don’t see them as outside suppliers, but part in the 1960s, and a system that creates the necessary condi- Everyone is investing in manufacturing.” of our consolidated assets, and as important as tions for them to succeed.” — LUISA ZARGANI Massimo Ferretti, executive chairman of our designers. They are part of the family.”

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WWD MADE IN ITALY The Innovators Exploring the new technologies that keep Italian production contemporary and competitive. By Stephanie Epiro

FROM THE ARCH TO PLASTICS, created last year that reproduces col- banks to the microchip, the helicop- ors as they appear in nature, with mul- ter to the radio, Italians have been tiple chromatic shades and movement. at the forefront of modern invention Lash Multiplier, a new mascara formu- for centuries. la, offers an intense thickening black Today, innovation in the fashion shade achieved by coating pigments and beauty arenas is paramount. three times. A new hybrid powder, Homegrown technology is more im- M-use, feels like a cream but glides on portant than ever as Italian companies like powder. battle a tough economic climate to “M-use is close to the consistency of keep Made in Italy production on top skin. It’s an elastic veil of intense color globally. As a result, technology is driv- that doesn’t budge, crease or crack. It’s ing Italy’s manufacturing, from textile everything the consumer desires in mills in the foothills of the Alps to the a color product,” Priore said, adding gold workshops near . that Chromavis achieved M-use after “We are in a phase of rebuilding in 18 months of research into the formula Italy, and we are doing that with inno- and manufacturing process. vation and technology. We are redis- Italy’s textile and yarn manufactur- covering new methods of how to create ers are experienced in using new tech- products that are particular to their sector,” said Romualdo Priore, market- ing creative director of Chromavis, a cosmetics manufacturer with a turnover of 131 million euros, Cariaggi is or $180 million at current ex- investing change. Italians lead inno- $3.4 million vation, he said, because into yarn they “put creativity into research. practice.” Equipped with a high-end research laboratory, technol- denim fabric manufacturers, has a ogy is the funda- laundry-style laboratory ensconced mental driver of in its headquarters near Milan. The Chromavis’ baked 65-year-old company, which produc- powders and extru- es 25 million to 30 million meters of sions plant, based denim annually, is using its lab to per- 28 miles southeast fect technically advanced, eco-friendly of Milan. Behind dyeing techniques. One such process, some of the beauty in- N-Denim, penetrates indigo dye deep- dustry’s top-selling products — includ- nologies to create original product. er and quicker into fabric using less ing a baked shimmer powder by a pop- The industry has survived more water and chemicals with a new ap- ular American cosmetics brand that than a century with a constant paratus that applies nitrogen. Priore declined to name — the firm is flurry of new fabrics and yarns After N-Denim’s success, the continually conjuring up new ideas. — especially important in recent mill developed Indigo Juice — a Chromavis will entice its private- years to stay ahead of Chinese dyeing process that fixes color su- label clients with a trio of new makeup competition. perficially on the surface of the technologies it will show in April off- Yarn producer Saluzzo bal- denim to achieve vintage treat- site during beauty fair Cosmoprof ’s anced technology with sus- ments faster. run in Bologna. Powder compact tainability when it launched “These dyeing technologies Metamorphosis is an evolution on a the polyester yarn NewLife, help us save on energy and collection of wet powders Chromavis created from plastic bottles, cost, but they mostly offer ver- in 2012. satility to our clients. Our textiles “Innovation is essential and are pricier than textiles from other fundamental to our product, it’s our countries, but our clients buy because lifeblood and it’s the master path for they save money on treatments, they Italian industry. It is about creating a are able to achieve the look they want product that respects all aspects — is with fewer processes and fewer chemi- it sustainable, respecting the environ- cals,” said Simon Giuliani, marketing ment, and exciting? NewLife answered manger at Candiani. all those questions,” said Stefano Further south, prestigious cash- Cochis, director of Saluzzo Yarns. mere yarn spinner Cariaggi is invest- Devoting five years of research ing 2.5 million euros ($3.4 million) into the project, Saluzzo established this year into researching new yarn a directly controlled supply chain to technologies. produce NewLife. Plastic bottles are “We firmly believe that the only way converted into a 100 percent recycled for us to grow and remain competi- polyester yarn through a mechanical tive is to constantly research innova- process with low environmental im- Marcolin's denim-fused sunglasses for tion. Innovation is the inspiration that pact. The yarn is sold to more than 50 Diesel, above left. Weekend uses permeates all areas of our company, fashion labels, including an exclusive NewLife recycled yarn in its apparel. from the machinery to technology and contract with Weekend Max Mara. employees,” said Cristiana Cariaggi, NewLife was responsible for a yarns created for men’s wear collec- director. Innovation at Cariaggi, she 35 percent increase in sales in 2013. tions and a new jersey rendition of the added, also had to be sustainable. Cochis said he expected it to be the yarn, with superb draping attributes, Cariaggi spent five years developing main slice of the spinner’s turnover Cochis added. Systema Natvrae, a new way to extract by 2019. Saluzzo Yarns presented the Tapping its vertical network of natural pigments — plant, leaf, bark Lanificio Dell’Olivo’s spinning facility. next iteration of NewLife at last week’s fiber, yarns, fabrics and dyeing plants, and root extracts — in liquid form,

MARCOLIN PHOTO BY DAVIDE MAESTRI DAVIDE PHOTO BY MARCOLIN Première Vision in , focused on Candiani SpA, one of Italy’s biggest {Continued on page 12}

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WWD MADE IN ITALY The Innovators {Continued from page 10} Bocchese, chief executive officer of family and friends using social media work on a new factory at headquar- rather than powder, to create more ef- Bocchese 1908. platforms. The strategic acquisition al- ters in Filotrano near Ancona, the new fective and unique natural dyes. Some Italian fashion brands are lows Luxottica to expand its digital of- 90,000-square-foot space, set to open in For other yarn manufacturers, inno- asking textile firms to directly apply fering in the U.S. August, will house an automated ware- vation is tied up in the house special- technology into exclusively made fab- Baking new formulas in labora- house and state-of-the-art cutting and ty. For more than a decade, Lanificio rics. Avant Toi, a small luxury knitwear tories is also happening in the heart sorting robots to speed up production Dell’Olivo has spun alpaca fibers into firm based in , wanted a theatri- of Italy’s gold district near Venice. times by a week. The 3.5 million euro, lightweight knitting yarns at its Tuscan- cal look for its fall collection. Creative Fledging company 1KTG has shaken or $4.8 million, investment will allow based factory. Tinkering with exist- director Mirko Ghignone asked a mill up the jewelry industry with a new the firm to meet early delivery times re- ing machinery, technicians produced to reknit cashmere and cashmere-silk gold alloy. OKG — which stands for quired by foreign markets, said Andrea an ultrafine hollow baby alpaca yarn blends with a paper-thin layer of metal “one karat gold” — named for the sin- , Lardini’s president. blended with superkid mohair to cre- in the middle to give a papier-mâché gle karat of gold inside a patented mix Additionally, the family-run com- ate a slippery, ultrasoft yarn presented consistency and effect. of metals, entered the market a year pany also looked outside of Italy, and at Pitti Filati last month. “The construction wasn’t easy, but ago as a cheaper and lighter alterna- its family ties, to tap men’s wear guru According to Lanificio Dell’Olivo co- the effect it gives to the finished looks tive to the traditional 9-, 14-, 18- and Nick Wooster to consult on the Lardini directors Ilaria and Chiara Taddeucci has the drama we were after. The layer 24-karat gold alloys. Priced at less than collection in preparation for its fall Sassolini, the yarn has superior ther- of metal adds volume and life. There’s a 10 percent of the cost of the equivalent U.S. debut. mal insulation, and allows clients to long-dress design, and with the addition weight of real gold, several Italian and “Technology is not just about ma- create light knits with big visual im- of the metal, it folds into a minidress,” foreign costume jewelry brands have chinery,” Lardini said. “Acquiring pact without having to spend more on Ghignone said. “Cashmere is a noble already begun working with the alloy, knowledge from the outside is innova- sophisticating knitting styles because it fiber, so it’s often treated in classic ways which comes in white, yellow and pink tion, because we have to understand is so voluminous. to give it respect, but Avant Toi’s culture variations, said Riccardo Baldo, com- how different cultures want to wear In 1989, Eurojersey honed a new is to make it new, and that’s why we use mercial marketing manager for 1KTG. tailored clothing.” way of knitting polyamide microfi- innovation and hand-painting to create ber and Lycra spandex together in pieces no one has seen before.” an open-weave honeycomb style. While product technologies emerging Trademarked Sensitive Fabrics, the in Italian industry today are the result jersey textile is imbued with a raft of of years of research, some companies performance benefits including high come upon new ideas by accident. Case resistance to chlorine, no pilling, in point: the creative development de- breathability and uniform elasticity. sign team at Marcolin, the eyewear pow- Though the mill sold the first proto- erhouse based in Belluno, which holds types of Sensitive Fabrics just over a licenses for brands including , decade ago, the textile has undergone Dsquared2 and its newest, Ermenegildo numerous adaptations for different ap- . A technician experimenting with plications. Launched last year, the lat- cold welding hit on a new way to fuse est version is destined for the shape- denim to sunglasses for licensee Diesel. wear industry. Sensitive Sculpt boasts “We were able to fuse the acetate 41 percent Lycra — a blend the compa- and original Diesel denim with cold ny claims is new in shapewear fabric. pressure and a few secret ingredients,” “The winning mix is innova- said Valerio Giacobbi, general manager tion, quality and price,” said Andrea of sales, marketing and business strat- Crespi, general director of Eurojersey. egies. “In the past, eyewear makers “Sensitive Sculpt offers the highest could only glue fabric to certain types elongation and unmatched recovery in of frames, but eventually it peeled off. the shapewear industry. It really is like With this technique, they are properly M-use is a new formula by a second skin because it is flat, thin fused as one material, which can be all Chromavis that took 18 months and lightweight.” over and on all types of frames, even of research to develop.

OKG — One “Brands are attracted to OKG be- Karat Gold — cause of its durability and perfor- alloy costs a mance,” said Baldo. “It can be used tenth of the exactly like more pure gold alloys, price of real and unlike gold-plating, which gold. tarnishes over time, this alloy remains immaculate so it always looks beautiful.” This year, Baldo is expanding OKG into other sectors, such as furniture design and accessories. Even if new technologies contradict the idea of heritage craftsmanship, companies are still finding ways to innovate while maintaining the tradi- tion of the artisans’ hands. “We tan leather in the same handmade artisan processes that are a century old, but our factories are planned and built from state-of-the- art machinery, and extremely sustainable,” said Alessandro For one Italian silk weaver, intro- finer optical ones. This has never been Iliprandi, president of ducing innovation into its newest col- done before. It’s a big step.” Bonaudo, a leather producer lection came from an unlikely source: Called DenimEye, the Diesel sun- for the luxury accessories another mill. Bocchese 1908 worked glasses will launch at the Mido eye- and ready-to-wear industry. with denim mill Berto to create a col- wear fair in May. Awaiting a patent for Last month, Bonaudo opened lection of fabrics called Denim Loves the process, Marcolin is experimenting another 60,000-square-foot Silk. Weaving technicians from both with fusing other fabrics and is cur- factory that produces leather mills found a way to create lightweight rently perfecting bonding leather to for men’s shoes near Venice, and double-faced silk and indigo acetate using the same technique. which Iliprandi said was con- denim blends that will hit the market Another major Italian eyewear pro- structed for minimum envi- for spring 2015. ducer, Luxottica, took a different ap- ronmental impact, powered “I don’t know if my grandfather who proach. Last month the group acquired by solar energy, LED lighting founded the company would have col- Glasses.com, a North American-based and recycled water. laborated with another Italian mill, Web site that has proprietary virtual Lardini, a men’s wear label but he was enthusiastic for newness, try-on technology. Using a three-di- and clothing manufacturer and that remains paramount for us. mensional image of a consumer’s face, that produces for other fashion Innovation comes from having an the consumer is able to try on differ- houses, is taking a two-pronged Avant Toi adds a layer of metal to its open-minded approach,” said Michele ent pairs of glasses and send images to approach to innovation. Completing knitwear for extra volume.

14 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MADE IN ITALY

Almost more than money, young designers With a Little Help need business support, encouragement and mentorship from the fashion establishment. From My Friends By Alessandra Turra

WHILE MAJOR LABELS — Gucci and Giorgio to Versace and Prada — continue to domi- Paula Massimo nate the Italian fashion scene, a new crop of design- Cademartori Giorgetti ers is building an international reputation and gener- ating even more attention on the Made in Italy label. To wit, two of Italy’s hottest brands of the moment, Fausto Puglisi and Stella Jean, have been included in “The Glamour of Italian Fashion, 1945 – 2014,” the vast exhibition on Italian fashion opening at ’s Victoria and Albert Museum on April 5. Jean, along with Gabriele Colangelo, is also among 30 semifinalists for the inaugural LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton Young Fashion Designer Prize. Since September, the reorganized Italian Chamber of Fashion has been revising the tradi- tional show schedule, offering more appealing slots to emerging labels. These young up-and-comers are finding they don’t have to have huge production runs to make a statement, but they do need a leg up from the establishment. They deliver different products to cater to different markets, from contemporary to luxury, but they all share the same passion for Italian craftsmanship. “I’m obsessed by craftsmanship. I work only with Italian artisans for both the leather and the embroi- deries, which are made using traditional looms,” said Puglisi, whose bold, hyper-decorated dresses have received critical as well as commercial praise, and have found their way onto celebrities like Madonna. “Made in Italy craftsmanship is the soul of my brand. Everything I do is made here with love,” said Brazilian designer Paula Cademartori, who launched her namesake bag line in 2010. Cademartori’s luxury

handbags, which are carried at 180 points of sale DANIELE MARI PHOTO BY around the world, are produced in small, specialized factories across the and Tuscany regions. products all over the world,” said Tiziana Cardini, creative and entrepreneurial mind behind the boom- “Some styles need about 32 hours to be finished,” fashion director for Italian department store La ing MSGM contemporary fashion house. The brand said the designer, who during Rinascente. “So these young designers are obliged to started adding a “Made in Italy” tag to its signature is introducing a range of evening clutches embel- combine style with great quality if they want to suc- MSGM label with the pre-fall 2014 season, but it had lished with bezels. ceed in international markets.” to develop an even more detailed label for customers “The quality guaranteed by the Made in Italy label Asian buyers are the most attentive to the quality in China, Japan and Hong Kong describing the com- is one key driver of consumer purchase of luxury of products and fabrics, noted Massimo Giorgetti, the position of its fabrics and washes. Even if good, standout products are key, tangi- ble support from fashion institutions and already Sara Stella Jean established companies is crucial for the expansion Battaglia of emerging labels. “Giants keep leaving their mark with their work and also with concrete gestures, like Armani,” said Stella Jean, who founded her fashion brand in 2011. “These give incredible energy to young people and show the desire of preserving and supporting Italian fashion, as a collective heritage,” she added, refer- ring to Giorgio Armani’s decision to open his theater every season to an upcoming label. Following men’s wear designer Andrea Pompilio, in September Jean held her first women’s runway show at the Armani Theater. In January, the theater hosted Swiss designer Julian Zigerli and today will serve as a venue for the runway debut of Italian con- temporary label Au jour le jour. “In Italy, the issue of the generation turnover — which comes naturally abroad — has been ignored for too long, and this is true in every field,” Armani said. “In a moment like this, which is definitely not easy, I thought that we all have to make an effort to send a strong message of innovation and renovation. The future of a country depends on the new genera- tions: Lending my theater to emerging designers is an initiative that I hope helps increase their visibil- ity, boosting the growth of their business. However, I’m pragmatic and I don’t love paternalism: Rather then offering financial support, I preferred this for- mula because I think it is more stimulating for the designer, and in the end more effective in terms of media exposure. We should keep in mind that the success of a fashion house depends also on that.” {Continued on page 16}

16 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MADE IN ITALY With a Little Help From My Friends {Continued from page 14} port, this new generation is further Andrea Incontri, who also teaches at designer Caterina Gatta. The collabora- The same philosophy is at the core endorsed in what would otherwise be a the Politecnico University of Milan. tion will launch for fall with a capsule of “Who Is on Next,” the talent con- completely unproductive period. Even “Launching his own brand, a de- collection, which will be presented to test organized by AltaRoma and Vogue with determination, it’s nearly impos- signer cannot just be creative, but has international buyers during the current Italia. The program is celebrating its sible to go it alone.” also to be an entrepreneur, facing the fashion weeks in Milan as well as Paris. 10th anniversary this season. Sozzani is also the promoter of The difficulties of taking the first steps in “I’m so happy with this partner- “The winners don’t get a cash Vogue Talents Corner, another program a very complicated environment,” ship, which will help me to create a award, but they get visibility and con- supporting emerging designers devel- Incontri said. “It would be interesting real brand and allow me to feel free to stant support,” said Vogue Italia editor oped in collaboration with Yoox Group’s to have a training service for start- create and to be supported on the com- in chief Franca Sozzani, who can be e-tailer Thecorner.com. Launched in ups that could help to understand the mercial side,” said Gatta. considered a godmother to an entire 2009, each season it involves about 10 to rules of the market and untangle the The partnership marks a big step in generation of Italian designers. “I don’t 12 designers who showcase their collec- country’s bureaucracy.” the development of the Caterina Gatta believe in one-shot initiatives. Actually, tions during Milan Fashion Week and sell After years of managing everything brand. Since it was founded in 2009, I believe that it’s crucial to keep stay- their merchandise on Thecorner.com. on his own, last September Incontri when the designer presented a collec- ing close to up-and-coming designers, Since the first edition, the initia- signed a five-year licensing agreement tion at New York’s Soho House, the line putting them in contact with big com- tive, which launched brands such as with Italian manufacturer Kabi Srl for has had limited production and dis- panies and helping them to develop a Uma Wang, Aquazzura, Sara Battaglia, the production and worldwide distri- tribution. In fact, until now, Gatta has network for production.” Super Duper Hats, Benedetta bution of his namesake women’s line. used only original vintage fabrics from

Fausto Andrea Puglisi Incontri

Caterina Gatta PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY

Rome-based Marco de Vincenzo, Bruzziches and Leitmotiv, has been “It’s necessary in this market to storied fashion labels, including Gianni who won “Who Is on Next” in July strongly supported by Italy’s fashion find investors that respect the identity Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, Fausto 2009, is among those who found establishment. In fact, season after of the label,” Incontri said. “The part- Sarli and Valentino. That constrained strong production and logistic sup- season, designers including Armani, nership with Kabi is extremely impor- her production to a maximum of 12 port in a major company, Fendi. But de Donatella Versace and Diego Della tant for my label because the company pieces for each style. Vincenzo, whose brand is currently on Valle left their ateliers just hours be- delivers products with great quality, “As soon as I met Caterina, I im- the radar of Fendi parent LVMH Moët fore their shows to attend The Vogue along with guaranteeing proper cus- mediately recognized a great creativ- Hennessy Louis Vuitton, knows all too Talents Corner opening event. tomer service and distribution.” ity that could have been reinforced well how hard the way to success is for The creation of a new generation of Similar to Kabi, several Italian man- by Castor’s manufacturing skills and an independent brand. successful designers starts at school, ufacturing companies are currently in- commercial network,” said Castor “Italy as a whole offers a great deal according to La Rinascente’s Cardini. vesting in new labels. chief executive officer Angela Picozzi. of opportunities as far as the industry “Fashion schools should pay con- Case in point is Gilmar, which in “Caterina has a very artistic yet con- is concerned. Thanks to the various re- stant attention to the quality of their 2012 signed a licensing agreement to temporary point of view.” sources, experience and energy from teaching,” she said. “But at the same produce and distribute Alessandro That point of view, melded with the our country, from north to south, many time, the academic system should be Dell’Acqua’s No. 21 label, and in scope of Castor’s resources, gives a creative ideas could easily become supported by companies in a concrete December expanded its portfolio with certain credibility to a young collec- realities,” said the designer. “What way, through scholarships, internships men’s wear brand Paolo Pecora. tion — and as such, Picozzi said Gatta we lack is the support and confidence and mentoring activities.” Another example is Mantua-based has caught the attention of top interna- from investors in fashion newcomers The lack of a real connection be- Castor, which features a successful col- tional buyers from the likes of Barneys — this is, of course, the most inhibit- tween theory and practice is one of the laboration with British designer Giles New York, Harvey Nichols and Isetan, ing problem facing young designers. problems affecting the Italian system, Deacon and has recently unveiled a li- who have already made appointments Thanks to the media and their sup- according to up-and-coming designer censing agreement with emerging Italian to see her new collection.

18 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MADE IN ITALY Modern Times Moving time-honored skills and techniques into the present and beyond. By Alessandra Ilari

SPURRED BY THEIR ability to transform ideas into coveted merch, Italian brands continue to develop their Zegna reputations and labor-intensive artisanal traditions. Couture’s But just because there is a wealth of heritage in new neck Italian artistry, it doesn’t mean the techniques are all silhouette. ’s agatatura method, above. old-school. Concealed rather than revealed, many of Borbonese’s rubberized lamb suede bag. these novelty techniques look ahead, adding value to each piece with hundreds of hours of work, surgical precision, months of testing and studying, executed with fine handwork. WWD takes a closer look at the processes that characterize the new season, from top-notch luxe de- tails to round-the-clock comfort.

Fendi’s reissued Astuccio fur.

made with reclaimed leather and other eco-friendly elements such as rubber, Regenesi mixes innovation with tradi- tion. A playful variation on paper fruit bags, each is certified and one-of-a-kind because the pigments used for the coloring give a different texture to every bag.

ZEGNA PHOTO BY GIANA PUCCI ZEGNA PHOTO BY BORBONESE Regenesi’s Borbonese’s classic design de- FENDI ligator and crocodile that adds a slight Fruit Bag. tail — the partridge eye dotlike Fendi has rejuvenated its iconic Astuccio fur, originally rotundness to each scale, recalling the effect hand-applied on suede invented by Karl Lagerfeld for fall 1971. A symbol of arti- cabochon cut of Bulgari’s stones. bags — is getting a technological sanal expertise, represented by its shape that resembles Five key steps are involved in the upgrade for fall. a case, Astuccio went dégradé for pre-fall 2014, thanks process: bathing the skin to soften it up; Treating fine Entrefino lamb to the exclusive “let-out” technique that requires more nailing it onto wood panels to stretch; suede with a rubberized coating, than 100 hours of work. rubbing it 60 times under a machine bags will have a distinct tactile Each long, thin strip is hand-cut with an angular mounted with an agate; drying it at 400°F touch and look, and will also be fish-bone V shape, positioned according to precise on a hot slab to spark the cabochon ef- waterproof. calculations to form degrading shades and, lastly, fect, and applying by hand the small The luxury fashion and acces- hand-stitched together in a staggered manner to give cardboard elements onto the back of sories house also tapped a metal- the fur the desired shape. every individual scale. lic paint-anodizing technology from the automobile industry to BULGARI GEOX color metal hardware shades of deep red At first glance, it looks like a gorgeous crocodile bag. Forging ahead with its hallmark and coffee to match the hues of supple calf bags. Yet, it conceals a luxurious intimate side that stems “breathing” patent, Geox has developed the Side “It’s a complicated chemical process, but the from the “agatatura,” a new process performed on al- Transpiration System, a technique applied to the new finished effect is really beautiful,” said Giuseppe Zanna Bianca footwear range of urbanized hiking di Nuccio, Borbonese’s chief executive officer. boots, which marries waterproof protection to an el- “Innovation and technology have to be the motor of a evated thermal insulation. company today, it’s an instrument that helps us realize In development for 12 months, the STS technol- the ideas we dream up.” ogy was created specifically for those markets hit by extremely frigid winters, requiring extra thermal ZEGNA COUTURE protection against the cold ground. Hence, the Creative director Stefano Pilati elevated the double- pores are positioned on the side of the construction technique to a new gentrified moder- shoe rather than on the sole, grant- nity, creating an outerwear silhouette featuring inte- ing more freedom during out- grated scarves, or neck pieces that are an extension door activity. of the garment. Made by bonding two fabrics such as cashmere, vi- REGENESI cuna and Shetland (either matching or mismatched), Reclaimed leather specialist the double fabrics are linked internally by a thin Regenesi continues to update its thread that remains invisible from the outside. By Fruit Bag, developing new dyeing manually opening the margin of the doubled fabric, techniques to introduce two fall colors, it is possible to create interlocking seams that are purple and azure. Known for its quirky then rejoined by hand, offering a textured look that Zanna Bianca high-end fashion and home accessories maintains an intimate and luxurious feel. boots from Geox.

20 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MADE IN ITALY

The Big Beauty Push Promoting the cosmetics industry requires stepped-up efforts in teamwork and communications. By Cynthia Martens WHEN IT COMES’’ TO HIGH-quality products, Italy is ics firms invest more than 6 percent of their annual Italy, said international consumers generally have a known for everything from race cars to handcrafted turnover in research and innovation. very high opinion of Italian quality. leather shoes to extra-virgin olive oil. Consumers may be paying close attention to prod- “It’s the particular attention to detail: custom- But the country’s cosmetics industry, heavily con- uct origin when it comes to food and, increasingly, ers view the Made in Italy label as a guarantee that centrated in the north, is another area of excellence, fashion, but that’s not always the case with beauty you’re going to get a good product,” she said, citing although insiders say it suffers from the absence of a products, said Cinzia Baldelli, La Rinascente’s head fashion and design, wine, yachts and top-of-the-line unified marketing strategy. of beauty, children’s wear and toys. cars as examples that resonate on a large scale. “Italian [cosmetics] companies are increasingly “I think consumers are much more attentive to the If there is a marketing problem, she noted, it lies aware of the need to push Made in Italy as a concept; ingredients in [cosmetics] products,” she said. “We’ve in the rampant individualism of Italian companies. unfortunately, in the beauty sector, the con- This prevents them from uniting in a com- cept isn’t driven by a plethora of famous Giorgia Martone mon strategy. “The French are better at creating spin, and they’ve got more of an attitude of ‘we’re in this together’ — they’re good at creating I think that right all the trimmings to make things attractive; they make everything an event; they dress things up more,” Harvie-Watt Clavarino now, we Italians are said. “Nobody knows how to give a party like the Italians, they just need to communicate starting to understand more: It’s all about building the experience around a brand.” our potential and all Collistar has taken this philosophy to heart, trumpeting its Italian identity this year with an ad campaign called “Ti Amo that Italy represents Italia,” or “I Love You, Italy,” and featuring Sicilian model-actress Margareth Madè shot to people in other by , a rising star among Italian photographers. countries. The company has kept all stages of manu- facturing in Italy from its founding in the early — GIORGIA MARTONE, ITF Eighties, but is now ratcheting up communi- cation: In January, a special makeup collec- tion created with Sardinian designer Antonio brands the way it is in fashion, eyewear and Marras hit shelves, with products including a footwear,” said Fabio Rossello, president of Mille Baci (Thousand Kisses) lipstick series Cosmetica Italia, the Italian association of in which each shade was named for a differ- cosmetics companies. Last year, the organi- ent Italian city. Collistar also spruced up its zation underwent a name change, abandon- cosmetics staples, such as a nourishing anti- ing Unipro in favor of a moniker that under- aging oil-milk and energetic antiaging cream scored its nationality. by adding a range of natural ingredients har- “The real value of the’’ Italian cosmetics industry noticed that customers are more and more informed vested from around the peninsula — orange blossoms lies in the supply chain, recognized at an international and making specific requests concerning ingredients from Sicily, or red Aglianico grapes from the Tyrrhenian level for its great investments in innovation and re- or components that they prefer, or prefer to avoid, in coast, for instance — and featuring them in colorful il- search, which allow us to be leaders in product safety,” choosing the products of their personal beauty rituals.” lustrations on the packaging. Rossello continued, noting about 60 percent of makeup Baldelli said La Rinascente had noticed a “timid” Through these initiatives, Collistar aims to “high- distributed worldwide is manufactured in Italy. move by some Italian beauty companies toward em- light the Italian nature of the brand with pride,” said The beauty industry is about 1,000 companies phasizing product origin in packaging, but that this the firm’s ceo, Daniela Sacerdote, adding that such strong here — Italy is the European Union’s top cos- was far from the norm, and Rossello noted France and special projects were needed to maintain customer metics manufacturer — and directly employs 35,000 Germany are better equipped on the marketing front. loyalty. She also said response from the firm’s foreign people (54 percent women), according to Cosmetica Isabelle Harvie-Watt Clavarino, chief executive distributors had been especially favorable. Italia. Rossello said that, on average, Italian cosmet- officer and country manager for Havas Media Group {Continued on page 22}

Versace fragrances from Euroitalia and lipsticks from Collistar and Diego Dalla Palma.

22 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MADE IN ITALY The Big Beauty Push {Continued’’ from page 20} He added: “I don’t think pushing [product origin] Giovanni Sgariboldi, president of Euroitalia, the Fabio is really the point, so much as working seriously and company that produces fragrances for fashion brands Rossello rigorously to maintain the credibility and recognition Versace, Moschino and John Richmond, said while he that we’ve inherited from Italy and that it’s our duty was proud of his firm’s Italian heritage, he believes it to respect, preserve and enrich.” is better appreciated outside national borders. Bollati said Davines and Comfort Zone aim to “For [foreigners], a product Made in Italy is syn- represent “a discreet, harmonious elegance and onymous with preciousness, quality, trustworthiness,” attention to detail in the choice of materials and he said. “For Italian consumers, it’s a little different, shapes, all of which enhance the artisanal image unfortunately there’s less and less recognition for the even of products created on an industrial scale.” The value of national goods. There’s a tendency to make Davines’ More Inside line features individually hand- purchases following trends, without much awareness wrapped products, for instance. of how products were made.” Italian Fragrances, or ITF, which holds fragrance licenses for Italian luxury labels including Trussardi, Blumarine and Pomellato, has a philosophy of asso- ciating “with Italian brands that share our focus on The real value of the Italian identity,” said marketing director Giorgia Martone, noting, for instance, that Blumarine found- Italian cosmetics industry er and designer Anna Molinari is also a firm believer in supporting Italian industry and “this shared value lies in the supply chain. is the foundation of our relationships with licensees.” “In general, in our communication we under- — FABIO ROSSELLO, line our Italian identity as much as possible,” said Martone. “And it’s not just a question of where you COSMETICA ITALIA decide to shoot an ad campaign, but everything that’s behind it….We seek out Italian creative excellence.” Sgariboldi said that in addition to recognition for As examples, she cited the 2013 Trussardi scents My their creativity and high level of artisan know-how, Land and My Name, which highlighted the fashion Italian cosmetics firms deserved credit for their ef- firm’s ties to Milan in campaigns featuring Tomaso forts to be environmentally friendly. And while the Trussardi and Gaia Trussardi as models and bottle focus on marketing product origin is not widespread, designs by Milanese architect Antonio Citterio. Sgariboldi said Italian beauty companies “are real- “I think that right now, we Italians are starting to izing that our true wealth lies in our’’ Italian-ness, MANTOVANI FABIO PHOTO BY which feeds business as well as dreams.” Micol Caivano, managing director and director of marketing and communication for high-end cosmetics Davines’ More brand Diego Dalla Palma, said Italy’s lackluster eco- Inside line. nomic climate had prompted many businesses to focus on making product origin central to brand identity. “Especially abroad, Italy is perceived as the coun- try of elegance, beauty and living well,” she said, adding: “Attention to detail is a hallmark of Italian manufacturing, and these are elements that consum- ers — who are increasingly well-informed, and conse- quently more demanding — pay attention to.” Diego Dalla Palma’s production plants are con- centrated in northern Italy, Caivano said. She attrib- uted the company’s double-digit growth last year to its successful expansion in the U.K., Eastern Europe, Russia, the United Arab Emirates and China, where the brand’s Italian name, playful-yet-elegant style and ties to the fashion industry — it was founded in the Seventies by a professional makeup artist in Milan — make good selling points. “Made in Italy isn’t just about image and style, it’s also about quality of life,” said Davines and Comfort Zone president and chairman Davide Bollati. “With both [salon] brands, we strongly encourage people to embrace a dynamic, sustainable beauty concept for their mental and physical health.”

understand our potential and all that Italy represents Comfort Zone’s Davide Bollati to people in other countries. Even companies that skin regimen. had not made product origin a big selling point are starting to see the value in it, but we can and must do more,” Martone said. Salvatore Ferragamo Parfums ceo Luciano Bertinelli agreed. “I think the whole Italian [cosmetics] manufac- turing chain today is making more of a point to em- phasize the high quality of our products,” he said, adding, “Certainly we could act as more of a team, placing greater value on all those elements that in such a difficult market give Italian products a com- petitive advantage.” Bertinelli noted that Ferragamo Parfums, too, al- ways develops its packaging and ad campaigns with a deliberately Italian flavor: the Signorina Eleganza fragrance campaign was shot in Sorrento, on the Amalfi coast, by Italian photographer Mario Sorrenti. Rossello of Cosmetica Italia said he still sees room for improvement. “Sectors such as wine and footwear, which are close to cosmetics in terms of turnover, have an export value of over 70 percent, whereas our industry is still under 30 percent,” he said. “Italian companies will have to choose between two paths: pursuing a strategy to cre- ate new brands, or developing policies that support the whole Italian supply chain, which still requires a great deal of complex planning. And that’s difficult in Italy,

PHOTO BY JON GURINSKY PHOTO BY where there is still so much individualism.”

24 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MADE IN ITALY

Fighting the Fakers The battle against illegal operations that claim the qualities of the Made in Italy label but do not rise to its standards goes on. By Cynthia Martens

IN THE FASHION INDUSTRY, the label “Made in for clearer and more defined rules,” he said, adding Prato, a city about 11 miles from Florence, Tuscany, Italy” conjures mental images of , fine that the national government “should take more seri- with about 250,000 residents. Prato’s reputation as a craftsmanship and family-run mills set in pictur- ous and timely measures” to crack down on illegal textile hub began in the Middle Ages and grew dur- esque hillside towns. garment factories and fake labels of origin. ing the 19th-century industrial revolution, earning it However, Italy is struggling with another, darker Last year was bad for fashion manufacturing in- the nickname “the Manchester of Tuscany.” Today, the side of the label many consumers take as a guarantee ternationally: There were several deadly disasters emergence of illegal operations alongside long-standing of quality: a preponderance of illegally operated facto- in factories in Bangladesh, strikes by garment work- family businesses has put a strain on the city and dam- ries where immigrant workers are underpaid and over- ers in Cambodia over low wages, and a factory fire in aged its reputation, said Prato’s mayor, Roberto Cenni. worked, and where the textiles used are unauthorized Prato, Italy, that killed seven people. Many Western “Prato suffers from the negative image that was imports. While the resulting garments are assembled on consumers were jolted into a new awareness of the born over the past few years, as city outsiders [com- Italian soil, they have little in common with the intri- hidden costs of fast fashion. Italy’s problem lies in bine] all of the local industry with these illegal facto- cately crafted wares that made Italian fashion famous. the confusion created when consumers find both ries,” he said. Sistema Moda Italia president Claudio Marenzi high-end and cheap garments labeled Made in Italy. Asked how these unlawful businesses manage to said that the problem is widespread. “Honest compa- How can they tell the difference? fly under the radar, Cenni said, “Because until about nies are asking for more inspections and especially Nowhere is this conflict more apparent than in {Continued on page 26}

26 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWD MADE IN ITALY Fighting the Fakers

{Continued from page 24} The group was collecting money from newly arrived 2009, there was a general tendency to look the other Chinese citizens to register them as legal residents in way. Now, people are finally paying attention, and the city database without following proper procedures. there has been an outcry.” Over the course of eight months, the GDF estimated On Dec. 1 a fire broke out in one such Chinese-run that the band had earned between 180,000 and 450,000

garment factory in Prato, called Teresa Moda, kill- euros, or about $246,000 and $615,000 at current ex- ing seven workers and injuring several others. The change, from this activity — revealing that sometimes, Italian press reported extensively on the sorrow of the web of illegal operations includes local citizens. Chinese residents and the solidarity of their Italian Nesi said most of those renting out warehouses counterparts — as well as the indignity of finding ash- were Italian, although he also pointed out that national covered piles of garments labeled “Made in Italy” in law does not allow landlords to access their property

the wake of the disaster. without permission once a lease is signed, and moni- Cenni estimated there are close to 4,000 illegal toring all that goes on inside becomes challenging. textile businesses around Prato, and said the city au- “That said, this type of situation is unacceptable and thorities can only check up on 300 to 350 each year, there needs to be greater surveillance,” he conceded. unless they receive additional resources. “The situa- Prato, Cenni added, is one of the European cit- tion is upsetting, both from a fiscal and a humanitar- ies with the highest percentage of foreign residents: ian point of view,” he said. Some 32 to 36 percent of Prato’s children are from ’’ “Prato is an extreme case,” said author, textile outside the European Union, and Cenni said official veteran and member of the Italian parliament’s estimates show that just under half of Prato’s foreign residents are Chinese, although a precise tally is dif- ficult to determine because many are there illegally. He said public elementary and middle schools are working to bridge the cultural gaps between children

from Italian families and those of immigrants, but that the efforts are only likely to pay off in the long term, when those students become adults. “The great opportunity that we could develop would be to unite the local Italian artisans with Prato’s Chinese workers, but within a legal framework, estab-

lishing a specialized fashion center,” Cenni said. “Both Italians and Chinese have professional experience in the textile sector. It’s a shame and it makes me angry If the laws concerning that people are suffering and at the same time, we are missing the opportunity to collaborate in a way that origin go into effect, could be a boon to the Italian industry.” ’’ Tightening EU regulations and using new tech- nology to make labels traceable also would go a long Europe will finally way to avoiding problems like those in Prato, said Pietro Giordano, president of Adiconsum, an Italian be on equal footing consumer protection watchdog, noting that for many people, fake labels of origin pose a conundrum, de- with its international spite differences in product quality. “Right now, consumers don’t have effective weap- ons [against fake labels], short of always buying gar- partners. ments with tags specifying the exact supply chain or — LISA FERRARINI, with quality certification stamps,” he said. “In those cases, it’s always possible to refer to the certifying CONFINDUSTRIA organization or quality consortium to verify whether or not that manufacturer is actually part of the supply sumers pay significant attention to what they eat The great opportunity chain and is using the label legally and appropriately.” — sectors such as textiles and apparel, footwear, cos- He added that Adiconsum is pushing for a more metics, eyewear and furniture would greatly benefit user-friendly labeling system that relies on new tech- from more transparency in the production chain. that we could develop nology to make entire supply chains immediately ap- “If a label is completely missing, whether a label parent. But until such a system becomes standard, of origin or a label showing product compliance, would be to unite Giordano said a practical approach for fashion con- you’re not giving consumers adequate information to sumers is to “only purchase garments for which the reassure them about the quality ’’of the product and the local Italian quality-price relationship is plausible, rather than in- its manufacturing process, or about the [producers’] credible, and which have quality certification labels.” respect for health and safety regulations that are in- “The main problem, from [our] standpoint, con- creasingly important in a world of globalized manu- artisans with Prato’s cerns the laws surrounding the import of cloth and facturing,” Ferrarini said. threads, which in the EU still vary from country to Still, consumer awareness and tougher labeling Chinese workers. country, creating the paradox that a ‘semi-finished’ laws are all very well, said Nesi, but “if a company or finished product that doesn’t meet Italian import is registered in the Chamber of Commerce, even if — PRATO MAYOR standards can still reach Italy by crossing the border it’s entirely Chinese-run, it’s allowed to put a Made ROBERTO CENNI from a neighboring [EU] country with more lax stan- in Italy label on any garments it produces here,” and dards,” Giordano said. many such businesses are banking on the unlikeli- Lisa Ferrarini, who is on Italy’s leading industrial hood of being caught violating labor, health and safe- Chamber of Deputies, Edoardo Nesi, whose family association Confindustria’s technical committee for ty laws. owned a textile plant there for many years before the protection of Italian manufacturing and the fight “The real problem is that we’re all high on the going out of business. He noted the percentage of against counterfeit products, is also president of Assica, idea of having luxury for nothing. There’s this idea foreign-run factories in the city was exceptionally the association of meat and processed meat manufac- that if something is expensive, it represents shameful high and “impossible to control,” given the complex turers, and an outspoken advocate of stricter labeling earnings on behalf of the manufacturer, rather than involvement in inspections of the ASL (Italian nation- laws and their enforcement at a European level. the actual cost of following procedures properly from al health service), the fire department,’’ the carabin- She said the EU Commission is currently discuss- start to finish. If something is cheap, people think of ieri (military police) and the Financial Guard (GDF). ing a proposal, part of a “product safety and market it as fairly priced,” he said. “That drives me crazy.” He also said the GDF has indicated that frequently, surveillance” package, that would harmonize EU la- In the meantime, Prato’s traditional Italian busi- Chinese textile operations “stick around long enough beling laws for consumer goods. Article Seven of the nesses are not giving up. Raffaele Riela, a member of to file one tax return, then disappear, only to reap- proposal states that “Manufacturers and importers the family that founded the Lanificio Lamberto tex- pear under a different name two warehouses down.” shall ensure that products bear an indication of the tile plant in 1961, said one of the greatest challenges The Prato GDF’s Web site publishes reports about country of origin of the product or, where the size or was to develop a modern awareness of the “tradition the raids it conducts. Over the past several years, it nature of the product does not allow it, that indication of beauty and good taste we come from.” has confiscated rolls of unlabeled fabric by the ton; is to be provided on the packaging or in a document “There are still many companies in Prato that uncovered worker exploitation and building permit vi- accompanying the product,” with non-preferential have taken on this challenge, that are keeping jobs olations, with ad-hoc dormitories created inside facto- origin rules detailed in the European Customs Code. and even creating new ones, that are taking entre- ries using plasterboard, and even discovered 107 tanks “If the laws concerning origin go into effect, Europe preneurial risks with new products or new markets,” of liquefied petroleum gas inside one warehouse. will finally be on equal footing with its international Riela said. “There are always many of us participat- On Dec. 5, 2013, the GDF unmasked a network of partners, such as the U.S., China and Japan, which ing in fairs and promoting our textile novelties with seven Chinese citizens working in collusion with two have applied [similar regulations] for some time passion around the world. And there are still many Italians, one of whom was employed at Prato’s office now,” Ferrarini said, noting that while the food in- clients who seek us out, knowing that we offer some- of vital statistics. dustry is quite well-regulated — and European con- thing that they won’t find elsewhere.” ADVERTISEMENT

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WWD MADE IN ITALY A Carrozzini image for Vogue Italia. A photo by Francesco Carrozzini.

Max Mara, Fay and Dolce & Gabbana, which over the years have asked him to shoot their advertising campaigns. “With my pictures, I always try to catch beauty, a classic form of beauty — beautiful clothes, beautiful women, beautiful men,” said Sgura, who says his style is constantly evolving. “In the Eighties, photographers had to stick to a specific style, but nowadays it is different,” he explained. “Digital cameras changed everything.” The next wave of fashion PIERPAOLO photographers With his perpetually boyish looks, Pierpaolo Ferrari, 42, has the attitude of is here. By someone who never takes himself too seri- Alessandra Turra ously. And, probably, this is one of the rea- sons behind the success of this Milanese In a Snap photographer, who is internationally con- sidered one of the brightest stars on the FASHION PHOTOGRAPHERS like Gian Italian contemporary artistic scene. Paolo Barbieri, Fabrizio Ferri, Giovanni Ferrar i began his career focused Gastel, Oliviero Toscani, Paolo Roversi on advertising photography, col- and Manuela Pavesi have long estab- laborating with major agencies and lished Italy’s stature when it comes to brands, including McCann Erickson, translating ideas and feelings into images. Saatchi & Saatchi, Nike, BMW, Ray- Now, the next tier is coming into Ban, MTV and Heineken, among oth- prominence in the realm of fashion ers. “I pay attention to everything that photography, and these rising talents happens around us, both in terms of are using their Italian heritage to their culture and aesthetic.” best advantage. In 2007, Ferrari met Vogue Italia ed- “The fact that I’m Italian has been itor in chief Franca Sozzani, with whom a plus abroad because people are fas- he “started an amazing collaboration cinated by Italian culture, fashion and at L’Uomo Vogue,” he said. Two years lifestyle,” said Giampaolo Sgura, one later, Ferrari shot of the more prominent photographers in a striking and controversial edito- among the new guard. rial for the art issue of W, which ran While they still have to fight aggres- in November 2009, which he named sive competition of successful photogra- as one of the milestones of his career, phers from the U.K. and North America, along with the fall 2013 campaign he Italians have a distinct advantage, ac- realized for . cording to Francesco Carrozzini, who “That campaign definitely marks a relocated to New York years ago. division between my current activities “Our eyes are used to beauty, and and my previous works, not only for me we like to give some warmth to our pic- but also for what is currently happening tures,” he said. “We like to communicate in the fashion advertising business.” with the soul.” Following the launch of the Le Here, the rising crop of Italian fash- Dictateur publication in 2011, Ferrari ion photographers reveal how they got teamed up with superstar artist started and built their success. Maurizio Cattelan to create unconven- tional and provocative art magazine GIAMPAOLO SGURA Toilet Paper, “which takes 120 percent Giampaolo Sgura, who divides his time of my time,” the photographer said. between Milan and New York, is a fash- ion passionate, and travels the world to FRANCESCO CARROZZINI shoot models and celebrities for covers Following in his mother’s footsteps of high-profile fashion magazines, in- was almost inevitable for fashion pho- cluding international editions of Vogue, tographer and film director Francesco GQ, Hercules, Interview, Carrozzini, the 31-year-old son of Vogue and Allure, among others. Italia’s Franca Sozzani. “I am missing American Vogue, that’s “Of course, my background and my totally my next goal,” admitted Sgura, family have had a huge impact on what 39, who cut his teeth at Condé Nast I am now — fashion and art have always Italia shooting for small sections of been part of my life,” said Carrozzini. Glamour and L’Uomo Vogue. “My mother is my only professional The photographer is also a favor- mentor, she has always advised me.” ite of international brands, includ- But, even if talent might be heredi- ing Giorgio Armani, Roberto Cavalli, Giampaolo Sgura’s covers for international editions of Vogue. tary, passion and determination are WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 2014 29 WWD.COM

A photo by Pierpaolo Ferrari for Kenzo. Lorenzo Bringheli.

personal qualities, and Carrozzini L’Uomo Vogue’s January 2009 issue. work in Europe at the same time,” said has demonstrated those in abundance “I was 25, and I think that can be re- LORENZO BRINGHELI Bringheli, who has also collaborated since he was a teenager. At 19, while a ally considered the turning point that “I decided I wanted to be a photographer with Vogue Japan, Esquire and the college student in Milan, he kick-start- legitimized my career,” the photogra- at 16,” said Lorenzo Bringheli, now 32. British Exit magazines, as well as shoot- ed his career by directing a promo for pher remarked. After graduating from high school, ing campaigns for fashion labels. Italian MTV. Documentaries, com- Carrozzini’s most recent efforts Bringheli started assisting a num- Describing his style as “graphic and mercials and music videos followed, include the new DKNY advertising ber of Italian photographers before essential,” Bringheli got passionate as well as important photographic as- campaign and Beyoncé’s “Jealous” going solo at age 20, when he got his about working on photography books. signments from international maga- music video. first fashion editorial assignments “They allow you to work on a deep- zines, including Vanity Fair, L’Uomo “After 10 years of work, I can say that from Italy’s La Repubblica weekly er level than fashion editorials, which Vogue, , W, Rolling these people don’t hire you because of magazine, along with Vogue Italia and are destined for rapid consumption,” Stone, Pop, New York magazine and, your pedigree,” Carrozzini noted. “I’ve L’Uomo Vogue. said Bringheli, who, as well as devel- not surprisingly, Vogue Italia. always done my best to demonstrate by “Then, Franca [Sozzani] suggested oping publishing projects with Dolce Among his numerous works, working with dedication and diligence that I check out the American mar- & Gabbana and Luxottica, also took Carrozzini cited in particular the portrait that I’m part of this game — and not just ket, so I moved to New York, where I the pictures featured in Tod’s “Italian of Keith Richards he shot for the cover of because of my family.” stayed for 10 years, but I continued to Portraits” tome. SHOP AT BORBONESE.COM SHOP AT 30 WWD FRIDAY, FEBRUARY 21, 2014 SECTION II

WWD MADE IN ITALY Monuments to Quality Talk about having history on your side. By Luisa Zargani

THE MADE IN ITALY campaign is suc- founder of OTB. Rosso is giving a make- cessful because the nation’s reputation Diego and Andrea Della Valle of over to Venice’s iconic Ponte di Rialto for making classic things that last is Tod’s, which is sponsoring the with a sponsorship contract that will see rooted in its icons that go back thou- restoration of the Colosseum. the Italian entrepreneur financing the sands of years — from works of art like restoration of the 16th-century bridge Leonardo da Vinci’s “The Last Supper” through his company, parent of Diesel, to the Colosseum. , Maison Martin Margiela, Viktor And the future of the Made in Italy & Rolf and Staff International. Rosso label also rests on the future of the coun- has pledged to donate 5.5 million euros, try’s territory and storied monuments. or $7.5 million at current exchange, for “Beauty nourishes creativity and in- the bridge restoration, which will be novation, it’s a virtuous circle,” said overseen by the city’s municipality. Armando Branchini, vice president of “It’s a must to help and give back to luxury goods association Fondazione the territory,” he said. “We should not Altagamma. “Italy’s value identity is replace the public authority, but social- embodied in the exceptional quality of ly lend a hand.” The entrepreneur also Made in Italy. Without it, the sound of a sees this as a way to help boost tourism Ferrari motor would not be so harmon- in the city. ic, nor would the design of its body be so Tod’s chairman and chief execu- exquisite.” tive officer Diego Della Valle has made Italian fashion entrepreneurs have in- headlines around the world with his do- creasingly been active in contributing to nation of 25 million euros, or $34.2 mil- safeguarding and restoring Italian monu- lion, to help pay for the restoration of ments, especially since funds earmarked the Colosseum in Rome. Work started by the government for this purpose are last year, two years after he signed the slim, considering the country’s struggles sponsorship contract. with a difficult economy and swelling debt. Della Valle has been urging fellow “Companies that are profitable have entrepreneurs to take action and sup- an obligation to support the public ad- port work on crumbling sites throughout ministration, which is generally over- the country, a venture he has dubbed

burdened with costs,” said Renzo Rosso, MASSIMILIANO MIGLIORATO PHOTO BY “Project Italia.” Gucci opened a museum WWD.COM in Florence, where the Advertisement company was founded, and funds preservation of the city’s art treasures. ® investment in values such Sensitive as spirituality or religion,” he said. In 2013, Fendi said it Fabrics: was supporting a four- year project to restore Rome’s fabled Trevi Fountain — captured in a new movies including “Three Coins in the Fountain” and Federico Fellini’s dimension “La Dolce Vita.” The Rome-based firm will also

PHOTO BY ANDREA DELBÒ PHOTO BY provide for a face-lift to of clothing the Complex of the Four “The concept of being a custodian of a small Fountains in the city. part of the world for a period in time is very “This marks a return to our origins, to rein- strong for me,” said Brunello Cucinelli. “Living force the brand and strengthen its ties with the 100% as a custodian, you feel the need to beautify, city of Rome,” said Fendi president and ceo while with the concept of ownership, there is a Pietro Beccari. The company did not provide de- fear of losing or changing something.” tails about the cost of the restoration of the Trevi Made in Italy In 2011, Cucinelli donated 1 million euros Fountain, but it is estimated to top more than 2 mil- ($1.3 million) to help restore the Etruscan Arch in lion euros ($2.7 million). Fendi will not advertise Perugia, in Italy’s Umbria region, 10 miles from the sponsorship, preferring, upon completion of The well-known expression in the warp-knit Solomeo, home to his company’s headquarters. the refurbishment, a small plaque at the site that Made in Italy, the perfect balance of performance Also known as the Arch of Augustus, it dates will signal the contribution of Fendi, Beccari said. and functionality, Sensitive® Fabrics by Eurojersey back to the 3rd century B.C. and is one of the sym- Next year is a milestone for the company, which offer versatility and elegance for the entire war- bols of the city, as the main gate into the north will turn 90, and Fendi plans to move its headquar- side of the historic center. But for Cucinelli, the ters to the travertine-clad Palazzo della Civiltà drobe thanks to their exclusive appeal and easy Arch represents his youth. Italiana, which last year was the site of Giorgio wear. “My school was nearby, as was the cinema I Armani’s “One Night Only” event in the city. Coats, suits, cocktail dresses, and sportswear, went to,” he mused. “And it is the most beautiful The imposing structure, with six rows of nine from simple and formal look to the most advanced civil monument from that era. When you touch a arches, is also dubbed the Square Coliseum and techniques: garments always perfect for every occa- stone that is more than 2,300 years old, it has an- is considered representative of fascist architec- sion thanks to the features of Sensitive® Fabrics. other appeal.” ture. It was built for the 1942 World’s Fair in the The name of the entrepreneur will not appear city. The brand plans to offer the main floor to ex- on the Arch. “There will only be a sentence from hibitions and projects that exalt Italian creativity one of my masters, the Roman emperor Hadrian: and craftsmanship. ‘I feel responsible for the beauty of the world,’” “The Palazzo della Civiltà is a symbol of a mod- said Cucinelli, known to pepper his conversations ern building and the fountains are symbols of with quotes from philosophers and historians. Rome. This is a dialogue between tradition and Cucinelli also has restored the medieval village modernity. They are symbols of Italian excellence of Solomeo. He bought Solomeo’s 14th-century and of the Made in Italy label,” Beccari remarked. castle and surroundings in 1985, and since then The executive added that, while benefiting the has restored the entire village, adding a theater city, the investments also promote the brand and complex in 2008 with programs of prose, music and its lifestyle associated with Rome and “the Italian dance, and the Aurelian Neo-humanistic Academy, savoir-vivre.” which hosts seminars on philosophy, history, ar- Prada is also supporting its home territory. The chitecture and spirituality. Last year, Cucinelli in- company has earmarked 200,000 euros, or more augurated the Solomeo “School of Crafts,” which than $274,000, to support the restoration of the for- offers annual craftsmanship training to young ap- tress in the Tuscan city of Arezzo, to recover the prentices, with a focus on knitwear. antique church of San Donato in Cremona. Patrizio “If our plant were in an anonymous industrial Bertelli, ceo of the Italian luxury firm, hails from area, it would have a different allure. The condi- Arezzo. The estimated total cost of the works is tions in which people work, if they feel respected, 427,000 euros, or $583,200. This month, Prada said generate responsibility, and if you feel more re- it was also financing the restoration of Giorgio sponsible, you are more creative,” Cucinelli said. Vasari’s “Last Supper,” which was seriously dam- “Beauty and order influence and affect the level aged during the devastating Florence flood of 1966. of creativity. I believe that if something is beauti- Gucci opened its museum in Florence’s sto- ful, it’s true and right and also useful.” ried Piazza della Signoria in September 2011. While preparing the road show for the initial “We opened the Gucci Museo in the heart of public offering of his company in 2012, the ex- Florence on Piazza Signoria in our 90th anni- ecutive invited investors to Solomeo to see the versary year, [aiming] to create a destination brand’s tradition and production firsthand. that celebrates the heritage and values of Gucci as represented by our Forever Now philosophy,” Renzo Rosso and Venice’s deputy mayor said president and ceo for public works, Alessandro Maggioni, Patrizio di Marco. “We in front of the Ponte di Rialto. also wanted to connect the Museo meaningfully with the city of Florence, where the brand was born Crushproof and comfortable, Sensitive® Fabrics in 1921, by donating 50 are ideal to dress you up all day long, for a stylish percent of each visitor’s fit without constriction. ticket to preserve and re- Superior comfort, breathability, no pilling and store the city’s signature extraordinarily easy care and easy wear. Elegant art treasures.” but practical clothing wrinkle free, easy to wash Gucci has also en- and ironing free, perfect to travel as they take up gaged in restoring a dif- minimum space. ferent form of art — films. Flat surface with a soft hand feel, perfect co- Since 2006, the compa- lors’yeld with excellent intensity and brightness ny has been working in both in solid colour or prints applied with advan- partnership with Martin ced techniques. Scorsese’s The Film ® Foundation. Sensitive Fabrics follow a softly silhouette with “Gucci is also proud precise cuts and a outstanding tailoring concept to support The Film for clothing that is extremely pleasant to wear: Foundation’s efforts to fresh, light, and exclusive for the creative designs “The territory and its culture have an im- save and preserve cinematic treasures,” di Marco and advanced printing technology according to re- mense value. Italians are especially close and added. “Unfortunately, many of the most important nowned Italian taste. attached to their territory. For me, it would be a films from the last 100 years — of which a signifi- problem if I had to move 5 kilometers away from cant number are by Italian directors — have been Solomeo,” quipped Cucinelli. left to deteriorate. Through the digital restoration The entrepreneur said there is an increased work of Martin Scorsese’s foundation, future gen- awareness of these issues now. “We were less sen- erations will be able to enjoy these masterpieces www.sensitivefabrics.it sitive to this 15 years ago. Today there is a new as they were seen when they were first released.”