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p01Cover.indd 1 14-04-10 2:04 PM Travelling along a rail line built in 1864, the Napa Valley Wine Train combines sightseeing with gourmet dining.

That’s How She Rolls unlight streams through century-old etched glass, illumi- nating my path, and the clink of wineglasses meets my ears as I climb the antique stairs to board the Napa Valley Wine Train. Other Spassengers are already offering toasts across the white linen tabletops set with polished sil- verware, and animated conversations rever- berate along the length of the vintage railcar. I’m in ’s Napa Valley for the very first time and have chosen one of the train’s lunchtime winery tours to get a broad view of Mahogany panelling, etched the area. Along the way I’ll experience the lux- glass, brass accents and ury of old-fashioned railway travel, enjoy a velveteen-covered armchairs recall the meal at the award-winning onboard restau- grandeur of rail travel past. rant and see one of the region’s most visited wineries. Satellite images of the Napa Valley,

26 going places | summer 2014 (top) jake miille, (left) courtesy napa valley wine train

p26-31NapaValleyWine.indd 26 14-04-16 1:23 PM Rumbling past vineyards and steeped in vintage splendour, the Napa Valley Wine Train serves up the perfect pairing / by Catherine Roscoe Barr

which stretches from Calistoga to American beginning to lure wealthy city folk longing to They found an enthusiastic buyer in San Canyon, reveal a multi-hued patchwork of escape the San Francisco fog. Brannan built Francisco investor – and Rice-A-Roni inventor agricultural plots, with more than 430 winer- the Napa Valley Railroad to offer his guests – Vincent DeDomenico. More than a dozen ies blanketing the valley’s floor and benches – safe (and stately) passage from the ferry docks acquired and refurbished vintage railcars later, in a space less than 50 kilometres long and five in Vallejo to Calistoga, 65 km to the north. the Napa Valley Wine Train left the station for km wide. I’ll catch a glimpse of that terrain But Brannan’s wealth took a downward its first passenger voyage on September 16, today as the train ambles past more than 40 turn towards the late 1860s, and he was forced 1989. It remains a family-run business today wineries along the western side of the valley. to sell his railroad. It eventually made its way with numerous relatives holding various into the hands of the Southern Pacific Rail- stakes and roles, including DeDomenico’s o understand the history of the Napa road, which continued to operate it until the granddaughter, Kira Devitt, the train’s director Valley Railroad, one must travel back to 1980s. Longtime Southern Pacific engineer of marketing and public relations. Tthe 19th century when the area at the Lou Schuyler petitioned the government to Earlier today, Devitt met me at the station northern end of its reaches was developing as a save the track, which was facing closure as in the city of Napa for a quick pre-departure resort community. Californian magnate Samuel automobile and air traffic increased. Though train tour. Standing at the south end of the Brannan discovered the hot springs and mud he lost that battle, his efforts galvanized a train, she told me: “We’re really, really proud of baths of Calistoga and opened the first resort, group of local citizens to seek financial sup- this,” and gestured to the 12-car lineup: eight which still stands today. The year was 1862 port for privatizing what was left of the origi- passenger cars, one kitchen car, two engine and Napa Valley’s sun-drenched charm was nal railway line. cars and a brand-new power car dubbed

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p26-31NapaValleyWine.indd 27 14-04-16 1:23 PM Hop aboard the wine train during the San Francisco and Wine Country Delights tour with Trafalgar. Call CAA Travel to book today! Mix it up Lunch, dinner, winery tours and special events – there are nearly two dozen Napa Valley Wine Train options to choose from. Here are three of the best-sellers:

• Ambassador Winery Tour A three-course gourmet lunch aboard the train ride up the western side of the valley to St. Helena is followed by a Passengers can visit one of four wineries along the route, including the family-run Grgich Hills Estate and one-hour stop at famous its organic vineyards; (inset) the author’s fl atiron Raymond Vineyards – steak, paired with a Raymond Vineyards red (right). which helped put Napa on the international wine map “Grappa,” referring to the strongest alcoholic already seated in the Gourmet Express dining with its win for Chardonnay beverage made from grapes. car. We exchange introductions and order at the Paris tasting of 1976. Knowing I’m from Canada, Devitt empha- wine. I try the train’s private label Napa Valley The tour also visits another sized that the FM/ALCO engines were built by Cabernet Sauvignon, specially crafted by Ray- Napa Valley pioneer, ZD the Montreal Locomotive Works in 1959. One mond Vineyards. It’s rich and smooth, just Winery, to sample its is an original diesel locomotive, while the what you’d hope for from the region’s most organic French-style wines, other has been converted to 100 per cent com- famous varietal and the perfect pairing for the and ends with a scenic pressed natural gas – one of the train’s envi- flatiron steak entrée I’ve got my eye on. 30-minute drive along the ronmental initiatives recognized by the U.S. Indeed, this pocket of land, 60 km inland Silverado Trail, on the Department of Energy’s 2013 Clean Air from the Pacific Ocean and 75 km north of eastern side of the valley, back to the Champion Award. San Francisco, is remarkably diverse and train station. All of the passenger cars were built by the exquisitely suited to winemaking. Numerous (six in 1915, one in 1917 geographical factors combine to produce the • Valley First Winery Tour Get an and the double-decker vista dome-car in Napa Valley’s Mediterranean climate of hot, early start with a motorcoach ride up 1952). Each is fashioned with dark mahogany dry summers and cool, rather wet winters – the Silverado Trail to Raymond panelling, golden velvet drapery, plush uphol- ideal and dependable grape-growing condi- Vineyards for a 90-minute tour and stered chairs and polished brass accents. tions found on only two per cent of the tasting, then board the train at its From the central kitchen car, the train is earth’s surface. northernmost point in St. Helena for virtually a mirror image of itself: observation As for the steak, much of the train’s natu- a three-course gourmet lunch during decks at each end, moving inward to tasting rally raised beef comes from Five Dot Ranch in the ride south back to the station. rooms. Dining cars fl ank the nimble chefs pre- Northern California. The chef’s accompani- paring hundreds of meals to order (more than ments for my main are local as well, such as • Vintner’s Lunch Packages 100,000 every year). the organic pattypan squash from Madera and Changing throughout the year, each The AAA Diamond-rated restaurant, the naturally salty tomatoes grown in brackish outing features a renowned Napa dubbed “Napa’s most unique restaurant,” water near Lodi. After my incredibly tasty Valley vintner teaming up with off ers a selection of menus celebrating fresh lunch, I seek out executive chef Kelly MacDon- executive chef Kelly MacDonald to California fare along with dozens of select ald, who’s led the train’s culinary team for create a wine-paired multi-course local wines. Th e soundtrack is provided by the more than 12 years. He’s in the fi rst-class vista meal enjoyed in the vista dome-car quiet rumbling of the locomotives chugging dome-car chatting with patrons – a couple and and prepared fresh in the car’s along the 150-year-old tracks. their young son – about the food and wine private kitchen. Along with the pairings for that day’s menu. elevated views of the valley, enjoy he winery tours are “seated with others” “I wanted to have a job where I could use personal attention and narration events. Which is why I’m now shown to the freshest California products that I can – from the winemaker and chef. tmy table where Tim and Princess, a I’m California grown myself,” says MacDon- –C.R.B. lovely couple visiting from New York City, are ald. “I’ve got a lot of handshake deals with local

(top) courtesy napa valley wine train, (steak) catHerine roscoe Barr, raymonD vineyarDs summer 2014 | going places 29

p26-31NapaValleyWine.indd 29 14-04-10 2:25 PM farmers, people who are just as passionate about growing the products as I am about cooking them.” And the by-products of all those meals? More than a third of what can’t be recycled is diverted from landfill through the train’s organic waste program, with a local company collecting food scraps twice a week to turn them into compost. MacDonald is also involved in community outreach through the train and received his second Hands Across the Valley Award in 2012 for providing 4,000 meals to those in need, including the homeless and senior citizens.

isembarking near Calistoga 30 km later, I and a dozen other passengers then board a motorcoach for The Castle Winery Tour explores , D built in 13th-century Tuscan style; (left) a 567-year-old the train’s newest winery excursion. fi replace from Tuscany anchors the Great Hall. The Castle Winery Tour visits Cas- tello di Amorosa, built in 13th-cen- executions, flogging instruments, shackles. tury Tuscan style and surrounded by The Iron Maiden is about 400 years old. I estate vineyards and mature olive believe Dario found it in a castle in Northern trees. Wine educator and tour guide Germany.” Joe Kunchick greets us in front of I shudder and happily move onto lighter the moat and leads us up the stairs, subject matter when we step outside and look over the drawbridge and into the down at some of the castle’s animal inhabit- chapel, where we take shelter from ants in the garden below. “Did you guys meet the sun and learn about the castle’s history. 121,000-square-foot castle, which took nearly our cats today?” asks Kunchick. “We have two: I’m fascinated to hear about the lengths 15 years to complete before opening in 2007. one is Lady Guinevere, and the big orange one that owner and fourth-generation winemaker Everything from the fi ve defensive towers and is Sir Lancelot. Th ey’re the pest control for the Dario Sattui went to when he built his four underground levels to the sprawling castle.” We’re also introduced to Giacomo, the courtyard was constructed just as it would goat, and a sheep by the name of Juliette. have been hundreds of years ago. Many of the Gesturing beyond, Kunchick says: “Our building materials were salvaged from Sattui’s cabernet vineyards are on the top of the knoll travels to castle ruins across Europe. over here. Some of the most sought after, “Dario brought in 225 shipping containers some of the most expensive grapes in the with bricks, roofing tiles, flooring tiles and world are here in the Diamond Mountain dis- timbers,” says Kunchick. “If anything in the trict.” He adds that only 12 hectares have been castle wasn’t built from original materials, planted on the 69-hectare property, then leads they used the same tools they would have us downstairs to one of 25 tasting rooms. used 500 to 800 years ago to build them with.” Of course, I opt for the upgraded reserve For example, skilled artisans from Italy tasting so I can try the crème de la crème of taught local labourers how to square some the castle’s award-winning Italian-style wines: Exclusive Travel Tips 8,000 tons of imported stone with hammer the 2011 Bien Nacido Chardonnay, Best of from CAA and chisel, each piece taking two hours. It’s Class winner at the 2013 San Francisco easy to picture myself somewhere in ancient Chronicle Wine Competition; and the 2009 Il City of Love. “While you’re in the Europe as I walk by these hand-hewn surfaces. Passito, which won the 2012 American Fine area, tag on a couple of days in San Francisco to see some iconic sites, Still, the Great Hall impresses me most, with Wine Competition in Boca Raton. Big, smooth like the golden gate Bridge or its vivid, hand-painted frescoes, detailed coff ered and robust, they don’t disappoint. Fisherman’s Wharf. and don’t forget ceilings and 567-year-old fi replace. “Th e fi re- I head back to the station via motorcoach to ride one of the historic cable cars.” place actually pre-dates Christopher Columbus,” along the Silverado Trail, which traces the east- –Rosemarie herscovitch, says Kunchick. “It’s from the year 1447. Dario ern side of the valley, off ering even more views Caa Travel Consultant found it in Tuscany and brought it over.” of Napa’s vineyards and wineries. Gazing out Visit Rosemarie at our McPhillips Sattui also imported artifacts to adorn the the window, I take in every last bit of this jour- service Centre or call 204-262-6200 Torture Chamber. “This is a rack,” explains ney – already hungry for my next adventure to for more travel tips. Kunchick. “It’s about 325 years old.” He points this radiant and abundant place. winetrain.com, at other objects around the room. “Swords for castellodiamorosa.com GP

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