Aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train WHERE CULTURES MERGE Brazil’S Salvador De Bahia
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® Your Magazine HOME MANITOBA INSURANCE 101 CAR-SHOPPING GRAPE TIPS EXPRESS All aboard the Napa Valley Wine Train WHERE CULTURES MERGE Brazil’s Salvador de Bahia p01Cover.indd 1 14-04-10 2:04 PM Travelling along a rail line built in 1864, the Napa Valley Wine Train combines sightseeing with gourmet dining. That’s How She Rolls UNLIGHT STREAMS THROUGH century-old etched glass, illumi- nating my path, and the clink of wineglasses meets my ears as I climb the antique stairs to board the Napa Valley Wine Train. Other Spassengers are already offering toasts across the white linen tabletops set with polished sil- verware, and animated conversations rever- berate along the length of the vintage railcar. I’m in California’s Napa Valley for the very first time and have chosen one of the train’s lunchtime winery tours to get a broad view of Mahogany panelling, etched the area. Along the way I’ll experience the lux- glass, brass accents and ury of old-fashioned railway travel, enjoy a velveteen-covered armchairs recall the meal at the award-winning onboard restau- grandeur of rail travel past. rant and see one of the region’s most visited wineries. Satellite images of the Napa Valley, 26 GOING PLACES | SUMMER 2014 (TOP) JAKE MIILLE, (LEFT) COURTESY NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN p26-31NapaValleyWine.indd 26 14-04-16 1:23 PM Rumbling past vineyards and steeped in vintage splendour, the Napa Valley Wine Train serves up the perfect pairing / BY CATHERINE ROSCOE BARR which stretches from Calistoga to American beginning to lure wealthy city folk longing to They found an enthusiastic buyer in San Canyon, reveal a multi-hued patchwork of escape the San Francisco fog. Brannan built Francisco investor – and Rice-A-Roni inventor agricultural plots, with more than 430 winer- the Napa Valley Railroad to offer his guests – Vincent DeDomenico. More than a dozen ies blanketing the valley’s floor and benches – safe (and stately) passage from the ferry docks acquired and refurbished vintage railcars later, in a space less than 50 kilometres long and five in Vallejo to Calistoga, 65 km to the north. the Napa Valley Wine Train left the station for km wide. I’ll catch a glimpse of that terrain But Brannan’s wealth took a downward its first passenger voyage on September 16, today as the train ambles past more than 40 turn towards the late 1860s, and he was forced 1989. It remains a family-run business today wineries along the western side of the valley. to sell his railroad. It eventually made its way with numerous relatives holding various into the hands of the Southern Pacific Rail- stakes and roles, including DeDomenico’s o understand the history of the Napa road, which continued to operate it until the granddaughter, Kira Devitt, the train’s director Valley Railroad, one must travel back to 1980s. Longtime Southern Pacific engineer of marketing and public relations. Tthe 19th century when the area at the Lou Schuyler petitioned the government to Earlier today, Devitt met me at the station northern end of its reaches was developing as a save the track, which was facing closure as in the city of Napa for a quick pre-departure resort community. Californian magnate Samuel automobile and air traffic increased. Though train tour. Standing at the south end of the Brannan discovered the hot springs and mud he lost that battle, his efforts galvanized a train, she told me: “We’re really, really proud of baths of Calistoga and opened the first resort, group of local citizens to seek financial sup- this,” and gestured to the 12-car lineup: eight which still stands today. The year was 1862 port for privatizing what was left of the origi- passenger cars, one kitchen car, two engine and Napa Valley’s sun-drenched charm was nal railway line. cars and a brand-new power car dubbed SUMMER 2014 | GOING PLACES 27 p26-31NapaValleyWine.indd 27 14-04-16 1:23 PM Hop aboard the wine train during the San Francisco and Wine Country Delights tour with Trafalgar. Call CAA Travel to book today! Mix it up Lunch, dinner, winery tours and special events – there are nearly two dozen Napa Valley Wine Train options to choose from. Here are three of the best-sellers: • Ambassador Winery Tour A three-course gourmet lunch aboard the train ride up the western side of the valley to St. Helena is followed by a Passengers can visit one of four wineries along the route, including the family-run Grgich Hills Estate and one-hour stop at famous its organic vineyards; (inset) the author’s fl atiron Raymond Vineyards – steak, paired with a Raymond Vineyards red (right). which helped put Napa on the international wine map “Grappa,” referring to the strongest alcoholic already seated in the Gourmet Express dining with its win for Chardonnay beverage made from grapes. car. We exchange introductions and order at the Paris tasting of 1976. Knowing I’m from Canada, Devitt empha- wine. I try the train’s private label Napa Valley The tour also visits another sized that the FM/ALCO engines were built by Cabernet Sauvignon, specially crafted by Ray- Napa Valley pioneer, ZD the Montreal Locomotive Works in 1959. One mond Vineyards. It’s rich and smooth, just Winery, to sample its is an original diesel locomotive, while the what you’d hope for from the region’s most organic French-style wines, other has been converted to 100 per cent com- famous varietal and the perfect pairing for the and ends with a scenic pressed natural gas – one of the train’s envi- flatiron steak entrée I’ve got my eye on. 30-minute drive along the ronmental initiatives recognized by the U.S. Indeed, this pocket of land, 60 km inland Silverado Trail, on the Department of Energy’s 2013 Clean Air from the Pacific Ocean and 75 km north of eastern side of the valley, back to the Champion Award. San Francisco, is remarkably diverse and train station. All of the passenger cars were built by the exquisitely suited to winemaking. Numerous Pullman Company (six in 1915, one in 1917 geographical factors combine to produce the • Valley First Winery Tour Get an and the double-decker vista dome-car in Napa Valley’s Mediterranean climate of hot, early start with a motorcoach ride up 1952). Each is fashioned with dark mahogany dry summers and cool, rather wet winters – the Silverado Trail to Raymond panelling, golden velvet drapery, plush uphol- ideal and dependable grape-growing condi- Vineyards for a 90-minute tour and stered chairs and polished brass accents. tions found on only two per cent of the tasting, then board the train at its From the central kitchen car, the train is earth’s surface. northernmost point in St. Helena for virtually a mirror image of itself: observation As for the steak, much of the train’s natu- a three-course gourmet lunch during decks at each end, moving inward to tasting rally raised beef comes from Five Dot Ranch in the ride south back to the station. rooms. Dining cars fl ank the nimble chefs pre- Northern California. The chef’s accompani- paring hundreds of meals to order (more than ments for my main are local as well, such as • Vintner’s Lunch Packages 100,000 every year). the organic pattypan squash from Madera and Changing throughout the year, each The AAA Diamond-rated restaurant, the naturally salty tomatoes grown in brackish outing features a renowned Napa dubbed “Napa’s most unique restaurant,” water near Lodi. After my incredibly tasty Valley vintner teaming up with off ers a selection of menus celebrating fresh lunch, I seek out executive chef Kelly MacDon- executive chef Kelly MacDonald to California fare along with dozens of select ald, who’s led the train’s culinary team for create a wine-paired multi-course local wines. Th e soundtrack is provided by the more than 12 years. He’s in the fi rst-class vista meal enjoyed in the vista dome-car quiet rumbling of the locomotives chugging dome-car chatting with patrons – a couple and and prepared fresh in the car’s along the 150-year-old tracks. their young son – about the food and wine private kitchen. Along with the pairings for that day’s menu. elevated views of the valley, enjoy he winery tours are “seated with others” “I wanted to have a job where I could use personal attention and narration events. Which is why I’m now shown to the freshest California products that I can – from the winemaker and chef. Tmy table where Tim and Princess, a I’m California grown myself,” says MacDon- –C.R.B. lovely couple visiting from New York City, are ald. “I’ve got a lot of handshake deals with local (TOP) COURTESY NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN, (STEAK) CATHERINE ROSCOE BARR, RAYMOND VINEYARDS SUMMER 2014 | GOING PLACES 29 p26-31NapaValleyWine.indd 29 14-04-10 2:25 PM farmers, people who are just as passionate about growing the products as I am about cooking them.” And the by-products of all those meals? More than a third of what can’t be recycled is diverted from landfill through the train’s organic waste program, with a local company collecting food scraps twice a week to turn them into compost. MacDonald is also involved in community outreach through the train and received his second Hands Across the Valley Award in 2012 for providing 4,000 meals to those in need, including the homeless and senior citizens.