T H E C O R S E T

E R L E T H C I N O I N .

A B O O K O i?

M O D E S A N D C O S T U M E S

M R MO P RI DS T HE PR S NT T I M FRO E T E E O T O E E E .

B W Y B L. . .

WI T H F U LL-PA G E A ND O T H E R 5 4 ENG RAV I NG S .

O wh a, W 111 s o e m fan oo h y f t , ’ n wh W 111 A d a, glo ve my h an And wh a W111 lace my m1ddle g imp ’ ’ ” W o d 1 a new ma e L ondo n b an P F a u ' Anmc o Lmh i o an f y .

L O NDO N

W R L K Y R A D C A N D T L E . , O , W \VAR\VI C K H O U S E PAT E RNO S T ER RO . ,

P R E F A C E .

TH E subject which we have here treated is a sort o f figurative

-field battle , where fierce contests have for ages been from time to time waged ; and, notwithstanding the determined assaults of the attacking hosts, the contention and its cause remain pretty much as they were at the

W e commencement of the war . in the matter remain strictly neutral,

’ ” merely performing the part of the public s own correspondent, making it our duty to gather together such extracts from despatches, both ancient and modern, as may prove interesting or important, to take note of the

war to vicissitudes of , mark its various phases, and, in fine, do our best to lay clearly before our readers the historical facts— experiences and ” — - Corset ue t on arguments relating to the much discussed qs i . As most of our readers are aware,the leading journals especially intended for the perusal of ladies have been for many years the media for . the exchange of a vast number of letters and papers touching the use of the Corset . The questions relating to the history of ’ t this apparently indispensable article of ladies attire, its cons ruction,

n u application, and i fluence on the figure have become so n merous of late

all ar that we have thought, by embodying that we can glean and g ner

to and w relating Corsets, their wearers, the various costumes orn by

' diflerent ar - e ladies at periods, ranging the subject matt r in its due order as to l O o f u tr n dates, and at the same time avai ing urselves caref l illus atio

t . when needed, that an interesting volume would resul P R EFA C E .

NO to one, we apprehend, would be likely deny that, to enable the

Of h u man race w - fairer portion the civilised _ to follo the time honoured custom of presenting to the eye the waist in its most slender pro

in u . portions, the Corset some form must be had reco rse to Our information will show how ancient and almost universal its u se has

to a been, and there is no reason nticipate that its aid will ever be dispensed with so long as an elegant and attractive figure is an object worth achieving.

of Such being the case, it becomes a matter considerable importance to discover by what means the desirable end can be acquired without injury to the health o f those whose forms are being restrained and moulded into proportions generally accepted as graceful, by the use and influence of the Corset . It will be our duty to lay before th e reader

o n the strictures of authors, ancient and modern, this article of dress, and it will be seen that the animadversions of former writers greatly

fierceness o f . exceed modern censures, both in number and condemnation This difference probably arises from the fact Of Corsets Of the most

o f at th e unyielding and stubborn character being universally made use . time the severest attacks were made upon them ; and there can be no reasonable doubt that much which was written in their condemnation

v had some truth in it, although accompanied by a ast deal of fanciful f exaggeration . It would also be not stating the whole o the case if we omitted here to note that modern authors, who launch sweeping anathemas on the very stays by the aid o f which their wives and l daughters are made presentab e in society, almost invariably quote largely from scribes of ancient date, and say little or nothing, of their own knowledge . On the other hand, it will be seen that those P R EFA C E.

Q

o f writing in praise the moderate use of Corsets take their facts,

- experiences, and grounds of argument from the every day life and general custom of the present period . The Crinoline is too closely associated with the Corset and with the

ff to mutable modes a ected by ladies, from season season, to be omitted

. from any volume which treats of Fashion The same facts , indeed, may be stated of both the Crinoline and the Corset . Both appear to be equally indispensable to the woman of the present period . To make them

Of serve the purposes increased cleanliness, comfort, and grace, not only

r ‘ without inju y to the health, but with positive and admitted advantage ’ — to the pbysz g ue these are the problems to be solved by those whose business it is to minister to the ever- changing taste and fashion of the day .

O N N T S T E .

CHAPTE R I . — HE COR ET z ri in amon st Sava e ribe s and Ancient Peo e . S en erness T S O g . g g T pl l d ai st esteeme m th e E as e on i rcassia rim ar ar Hmdu stan ersia ina W d t, C yl , C , C T t y, , P , Ch , E Palestme a es 9 to 29 gypt, P g

CHAPTE R II .

Th e orset acc rdi n H iu Th t hi m m d th e Mi ra o f o to omer Terent s . e S ro u of Ro e an C g , p , t Gr eece . Th e e man oi e a nd r men . e neral uxur . us . A Ro a o a e P pl T l t, B th, P d G L y ’ eo atra s w Ti - acin n th i er a es 30 to 38 Cl p Je els . ght l g o e T b P g

HAP C TE R III .

n is i ns Mon s and th e rset rs ts worn en emen as we as ra as o . Th e o e F k h F h k Co . C by G tl ll n a i s in th n nt Th e irt . mal ai s s in S co an . au ce r o L d e e Thirtee th Ce ury. K le S l W t tl d Ch - - Smal ie Th na e te e S oes . Hi ee e u r . n . S irts . S l Bo d s . e S coat L o g Trains k k d h gh h l d Sh ppers Pages 41 to 5 9

CHAPTER I V.

nn Hea dr s nd n an . o ets. e ses . tum n Pins in rance a E B d C o s es inth e time of Fra cis I . F gl d ' Mas s in rance . Marie Stuar . on S en er Pufi ed ernais ress . k F S leeve s . B e D t L g l d “ ais s. Henr . of ran - Au s rian o se ro i i s S a s . W t y III F ce tight lace s . t J ph p h b t t y ’ a erin d M wn Rufi s e e e ici and E i z S evere orm of orse . a . C th d l abe th of England . f C t L ’ S arc i . h n S u ffe H . E i z a et s a se Hair. Stu s on t e t h g t d o se Venice Fashi ons . l b h F l b adie m - i 60 to s. a es . affects as i n a rte rs and S oe roses. a er and Ra er a es L J I F h o . G h D gg p P g

E CHAPT R V.

’ ouise de orrai ne. Marie d M 6 n a e edici . is n irt Hai r Powder. Hair l e nt. L L D te ded Sk s. f Low resse i s s. ou . ll H e ese ress . ar es . n r ais ts . iam D L XIV n e ls . Sle de W S D Ch l I

Patc es . E a ora e m - - o s u es . Puri an M e i acin and S rai t acin un er h l b t C t t o d s . T ght l g t l g d r m A g C o well . u gsburg L adies Pa es 92 to 104 C ON T EN T S .

H I C APTER V .

A minu i i n . l a te au . ar ers . as i ons u n er u eenAnne . Di ve a sts a d L ouis XV a. W t B b F h d Q t W m 1 L m Gu ard n. ashi ns in 1 3 . o w ress s . h F h Th e o e . Enormou s Hoo p T e art g ale . F 7 D ’ ’ m m n s . Ga and B n o ns n S . rt i rt A ad s Mai s A co i s e e o Ti ght tays Sho S k s . L y d c pl h t y J onth e B o dice and S tays Pages 109 to 123

I CHAPTER VI .

L H r n R v r rset. ui ress in 1 6 . ever acin . o art . e c e o S tays o C o o s XVI . D 77 S e L g g h F h m i i r n r n. S or in n u u n ra . u a . er and Gari a s . e l t o h t Wais ts . L o g T s B ch J p s b ld F g ' - mn . ac ar s n r n m n trai o a d S c s . rs on S a s . e e e e e s g B k b d to k Docto t y G o g III . G tl Th e n r S a s . a es f as i n. Th rm R n t n u t s n e s . t y Ch g o F h o e te C INOLINE o ew . S o h S ea I la d M M 1 S au n e a te o C rm h ne . nd rs a e . ari n th o o S tarving a Lacmg Anecdote . We g e C t

. Am u ri n s ee eri an e l u si n ai s . Me i cu u r m e i d g l p c Bell s . I l o W st d s favo s o derat t ght ’ adi es n i - 4 t 164 lacmg . L L etters o t ght lacmg Pages 12 o

CHAPTE R VIII .

Th Au stri - rres n ence of e an Em n iz rs s . o o i nn s ists . n o sma l s e et press . V e e e Wa L o d l d C o C p d ’ The - n ueen h E n l hwonm t Ma az ine a Mor on. i ure rai ni . Q and t e g is ns Domes ic g . L dy t F g t g

- - orse s fo r u n ir . Th e o ardi n S c o o C t Yo g G ls E arly u se of well co ns tru cte d Corsets . B g h l

- and th e o rse . e rs in r i m e en e of th e rino i ne and th e C t L tte p ai s e of t ght lac g . D f c C l

r . Th - r o se e enu s de M d1 1 . ums i u res . e e C t V 6 0 Fashionably dressed S tatu e . Cl y F g L tt m i - ro a acer. A oun ar n A ami Man a es 165 to 186 f T ght l Y g B o et . F ly P g

CHAPTER IX .

No e n e a ce wi ou th e o rse . as i on f 1865 S ort ais and rain of 186 . i l g th t C t F h o . h W t T 7 T ght r o se and S ort ais . A rm f n r orti ns o f i ure and ai s . C t h W t fo o Fre ch Corset . P op o F g W t Th e oin of th e ais . er ri rs n s nu n i i ns ai ns mal ai s s P t W t Old W te o S tay . De c at o ag t S l W t and Hi H ee s Al min i M . orse . ar m e orta i gh l g D seases throu gh Hi gh Heels . Fe al l ty C t S a is i M 1 t t t cs. odern and Anci ent Corset Page s 189 to 20

HAP E C T R X .

’ - S - r n a m n . La o t s . s De F fastening t y Tho o s Corset S tabi li ty of front fastening C orset. ’ - ar m a urem n . i nn dr u rs ms e s . rse . e e s e e s Re esse r F h o G de s C o t S lf t V e e Corset . y C t “ ” r M Mi n r n u ri u o er a ria s . e ac o s . E as i r Narrow a s n o s . P p te l t B k C et l t c C o sets . B d I j

The orse ro er a h ed ro u ces a r cefu fi ur Th e arthi n a e Renewe . C t p p ly pp p d g a l g e . F g l d ’

h ri n n m h u re . oms ons Z e a rinoli e . o s u e of t e resen n Th laims of Na Th p y C C t P t Seaso . e c t S imfli tude between th e Tahi tian Gi rl and Vene ti an L ady Pages 202 to 224 LI ST OF I LLU S RA IONS T T .

1 T R . HE DAWN o r THE CO SET

z R . CI CASSIAN LADY

E L S R 3 . GYPTIAN LADY IN FUL KI T

R D R 4. PE SIAN ANCING GI L

N RR W S R 5 . E GYPTIAN LADY IN A O KI T

6 o r AN R . LADY CIENT G EECE

R M o r R R o r H 7 . O AN LADY ANK ( EIGN ELIOGABALUS)

8 TH E o r R M A M R . FIEND FASHION, F O AN NCIENT ANUSC IPT W R r E R . . THE R o 9 P INCESS BLANCHE , DAUGHTE D A D III

1 0 o r R o r R R . LADY ANK THE THI TEENTH CENTU Y

1 1 o r R o r R M . LADY THE COU T QUEEN CATHE INE DE EDICI

1 2 R R As W R R 1 1 . FULL COU T D ESS O N IN F ANCE , 5 5

1 o r M o r 1 80 3 . LADIES FASHION IN THE COSTU E 3

1 RM H R o r R 4. NO AN EADD ESS THE P ESENT DAY

1 0 1 . o r R o r R . 0 5 LADY THE COU T CHA LES VIII , 3

i 6 o r R o r M X M L or RM N AN D R N o r R N . LADY THE COU T A I I IAN GE A Y F A CIS F A CE

1 R - R o r S W R M o r R M I 7 . CO SET COVE TEEL O N IN THE TI E CATHE INE DE EDIC

1 8 R - R o r S W R R o r E . CO SET COVE TEEL O N IN THE EIGN QUEEN LIZABETH (OPEN)

1 THE R H R M o r M R S R 9 . BE NAISE EADD ESS, AND COSTU E A IE TUA T

o R - r W R R o r E B z . CO SET COVER o S TEEL O N IN THE EIGN QUEEN LIZA ETH (CLOSED)

M R R o r RR 2 1 H R . r R R . EN Y III o F ANCE AND THE P INCESS A GA ET LO AINE z z o r R o r E . LADY THE COU T QUEEN LIZABETH

2 A o r 1 60 3 . VENETIAN LADY FASHION, 5 QUEEN E LIZABETH

2 . R R R G Bo YHooD o r 5 COU T D ESS DU IN THE LOUIS XIII .

6 M R M 2 . A IE DE EDICI

2 M o r T M o r XI . 7 . FANCY COSTU ES THE I E LOUIS V S O F U LI T ILL ST R A TION S.

P \C B

2 8 S AM DR W R R XI I ESE ESS O N AT THE COU T OF LOUIS V .

2 E L 1 6 9 YOUNG NG ISH LADY OF FASHION, 53

0 R 3 FANCY DRESS WO N IN THE REIGN OF LOUIS XV . COSTUMES AFTE R WATT EAU C RINOLINE IN 1 7 1 3 LOW BODIES AND CURTAILED C RINOLIN E

COUR T DRESS OF THE REIGN OF LOUIS XVI . CLASSIC COSTUME OF THE FRENCH REvOLUTI ONARY PERIOD

1 80 6 LADY OF FASHION , FASHIONABLE DRESS IN 1 82 4

1 82 LADY OF FASHION, 7

1 8 0 LADY OF FASHION, 3

D 1 8 LA Y OF FASHION, 37 THE CRINOLINE OF A S OUTH S E A ISLANDE R THE FASHION OF 1 865 THE FASHION OF 1 867

R RM G R S M R R CO SET, FO IN BOTH CO SET AND TO ACHE (F ONT)

R F RM R AN D S M R CO SET, O ING BOTH CO SET TO ACHE (BACK)

MM P S CO ON CHEA TAY, FASTENED MM S CO ON CHEAP TAY, OPEN THE GLOVE -FITTING CORSET (THOMSON AND C O )

R M R . LA R R R CO SET OF ESS S DE GA DE , PA IS (F ONT)

R M R . LA R R CO SET OF ESS S DE GA DE, PA IS (BACK) THE REDRESSEUR CORSET OF VIENNA (WEISS) THE FASHION OF 1 868 THE ZEPHYRI NA J UPON (THOMSON AND 0 0 ) TAHITIAN DANCIN G GI RL AND VENETIAN LADY THE C OR SET AND THE C R INO LI NE .

C HAP T E R I .

— n an n n - — The origin of the Co rset T he I di hu ti g beIt Reduction of the figure by th e — ancient inhabitants Of Po lenqui U se Of the Co rset by th e natives o f the E astern — n in ns br A rchipelago Impro veme ts co tructio n o ught abo ut by th e advance o f civil i sa — — tio n Sle nde rne ss Of waist esteemed a gre at beau ty in th e E ast Earth-e ating in — ava— ure - ra nn in e o n T h e beau es of rcass a r s ender a s and J Fig t i i g C yl ti Ci i , the i l w i ts — — — Co rse ts E legant princesse s Of C rim Tartary Hindoo be lles Hindo o ide as o f — — beauty E legance of figure highly esteeme d by the Persians L e tter fro m a Chinese — gentleman (WOO-tan- Zhiu ) o n slender wai sts Researches amo ngst the antiqu ities o f — — Egypt F ashio ns Of th e Egyptian ladies T h e C o rse t in use amo ng th e I sraelitish

ad es —T e an e of he r co s ume br da dress — en he e c &c Scr ura re er ces. l i l g t i t , i l , . ipt l f

OR the origin o f the corset we must travel back into far antiquity.

F ‘ diffic How far it would be ult to determine . The unreclaimed

a wh o h z Of a sav ge , bow in hand, t reads the ma es the primev l forests of o n f in pursuit the game he subsists , fashions for himsel , from the a skin Of some nimal which good fortune may have cast in his way, a o r to his belt girdle from which suspend rude knife, quiver, or other him hunting gear ; and experience teaches that, to answer the purpose ' efiicientl sufli cientl stifi y, it should be moderately broad and y to prevent i fire creasing when secured round the wa st . A sharpened bone, or to o f hardened stick, serves make a row small holes at each end ; a strip o f o r h tendon, a thong of hide, forms a lace wit which the extremities are dIIrin drawn together, thereby giving support to the figure g the ’ f - i atigues Of the chase . The porcupine s quill , the sea shell, the w ld ’ and - all to and beast s tooth, the cunningly dyed root, help decorate

a - - l orn ment the hunting belt. The well formed youths and gracefu B

THE W R DA N OF THE CO SET .

T H E R SE AN D H E R E CO T T C INOLIN .

Investigation proves to us that the taste for slender waists prevailed even more in the Eastern nations than in those of Europe, and we find that other means besides that of compression have been extensively taken advantage of. Humboldt, in his personal narrative, describes the “ ” am o women of Java, and informs us that the reddish clay called p i

ma Of eaten by them in order that they y become slim, want plumpness being a kind Of beauty in that country. Though the use of this

to Of earth is fatal health, those desirous profiting by its reducing o f to qualities persevere in its consumption . Loss appetite and inability partake of more than most minute portions of food are not slow in

- o f bringing the wished for consummation about . The inhabitants Ceylon make a perfect study Of the training Of the figure to the most

. are slender proportions Books on the subject common in that country, and no young lady is considered the perfection o f fashionable elegance unless a great number of qualities and graces are possessed ; not the least o f these is a waist which can be quite or nearly clasped with the two hands ; and, as we proceed with our work, it will be seen that this

‘ standard for the perfection o f waist-measurement has been almost

- - - o f world wide . From the coral fringed and palm decked islands the Pacific and Indian Ocean we have but to travel to the grass-clad Yaila

Of a - to Crim Tart ry and the rock crowned fastnesses Of Circassia, see the v same tastes prevailing, and e en more potent means in force for the

r obtainment O f a taper form . Any remarks f om us as to the beauty of Of the ladies Circassia would be needless , their claim to that enviable endowment being to o well established to call for confirmation at our Of fi u hands, and that no pains are spared in the formation their g will be best seen by a quotation from a recent traveller wh o writes on the subject : ” What would (he says) our ladies think of this fashion on the part Of the far- famed beauties of Circassia ? The women wear a corset made of ’ ‘ Inoro cco r , and fu nished with two plates of wood placed on the chest, T H E R SE AND T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

s o f which, by their strong pre sure, prevent the expansion the chest ; this corset also confines the bust from the collar-bones to the waist by means of a cord which passes through leather rings . They even wear it Off o u t to during the night, and only take it when worn , put on another ” o f O lo w quite as small . He then speaks the daughters of Osman g , “ and says, Their figures were tightened in an extraordinary degree, and ” t w their anerier were clasped from the throat do nwards by silver plates .

m to These plates are not only orna ental, but being firmly sewn the

r two busks in f ont Of the corset, and being longest at the top and narrowest at the waist, when clasped, as shown in the accompanying illustration, any change in fit or adjustment is rendered impossible. It will be seen on examination that at each side o f the bottom Of the Corsage is a large round plate o r boss o f ornamental silver These

r - - se ve as clasps for the handsomely mounted silver waist belt, and by

z their si e and position serve to contrast with the waist, and make it appear extremely small . That the elegancies Of female attire have been deeply studied even among the Tartars Of the C rirrgea will be seen by of v to the following account, written by Madame de Hell, her isit

Princess Adel Beg, a celebrated Tartar beauty “ Admitted into a fairy apartment looking out on a terraced garden, a curtain was suddenly raised at the end of the room, and a woman Of striking beauty entered, dressed in rich costume . She advanced to me Of o n with an air remarkable dignity, took both my hands , kissed me demonstrati the two cheeks, and sat down beside me, making many Of of friendship . She wore a great deal rouge ; her eyelids were painted black, and met over the nose, giving her countenance a certain sternness, ff which, nevertheless, did not destroy its pleasing e ect . A furred velvet vest fitted tight to her still elegant figure, and altogether her appear ance surpassed what I had conceived of her beauty . After some time, ff when I o ered to go, she checked me with a very graceful gesture, and ’ ’ Pasto i asto i said eagerly, , p , which is Russian for Stay, stay, and

E GY PTIAN LADY IN FULL S KI RT T H E R SE AN D H E R CO T T C INOLIN E.

v . clapped her hands se eral times A young girl entered at the signal, ’ - and by her mistress s orders threw open a folding door, and immediately I was struck dumb with surprise and admiration by a most brilliant apparition . Imagine, reader, the most exquisite sultanas of whom to poetry and painting have ever tried convey an idea, and still your conception will fall far short of the enchanting models I had then before

hr o f . me. There were t ee them, all equally graceful and beautiful W They were clad in tunics of crimson brocade, adorned in front ith broad gold lace. The tunics were Open, and disclosed beneath them cashmere robes with very tight sleeves, terminating in gold fringes .

o f z - The youngest wore a tunic a ure blue brocade, with silver ornaments ; this was the only difference between her dress and that of her sisters . All three had magnificent black hair escaping in countless tresses from a

fe z . of silver filigree, set like a diadem over their ivory foreheads They wore gold - embroidered slippers and wide trousers drawn close at

a so z z fa so the nkle . I had never beheld skins da lingly ir, eyelashes ” o f long, or so delicate a bloom youth . The Hindoos subject the figures Of their dancing-girls and future belles to a system of very careful training ; in all their statues, from those Elanra of remote antiquity, to be seen in the great cave temples of Carlee , to and Elephanta, those of comparatively modern date, the long and slender waist is invariably associated with other attributes o f their “ ” o f . Thurida o f Brah ama standard beauty , the daughter , is thus described by a Hindoo writer “ ” “ h o f T is girl (he informs us) was a yellow colour, and had a nose f resamu m like the lower of ; her legs were taper, like the plantain tree ; r o f her eyes la ge, like the principal leaf the lotus ; her eyebrows ex

Of tended to her ears ; her lips were red, and like the young leaves the mango tree ; her face was like the full moon; her voice like th e sound o f the cuckoo ; her arms reached to her knees ; her throat was like that i Of a pigeon ; her loins narrow, like those of a lion ; her ha r hung in

PE RSIAN DANCING GI RI

E GYPTIAN LADY IN NARROW S KI RT . T H E R SE A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

- elaborately ornamented waistbelts in general use, and by their arrange ment it will be seen that they were so worn as to show the waist o ff to the best advantage . The accompanying illustrations represent Egyptian

a . l dies of distinction The dress in the first, it will be observed, is worn long. A sort of transparent mantle covers and gives an appearance of width to the shoulders, whilst a coloured sash, after binding the to waist, is knotted in front, and the ends allowed fall freely over the front of the dress, much as we have seen it worn in our own time ; and it is most remarkable that, although there is no evidence to show the use Of o f Old in crinoline by the ladies Egypt, the lower border of the skirt,

rIo r some instances, appears distended as in the p illustration ; whilst in others, as shown in the second engraving, the dress is made to fit the w ff lo er portion of the figure closely, barely a ording scope for the movement o f l the legs in wa king. How Often these arrangements of dress have

o u r been in turn adopted and discarded will be seen as work proceeds . The following extract from Fullam will show that Fashion within the shadow Of the Pyramids, in the days of the Pharaohs, reigned with power as potent and supreme as that which she exercises in the imperial palaces o f Paris and Vienna at the present day : “ The women o f Egypt early paid considerable attention to their toilet . Their dress, according to Herodotus, consisted usually of but one garment, though a second was Often added. Among the upper orders the favourite attire was a petticoat tied round the waist with a o r C z gay sash, and worn under a robe Of fine linen a sort of hint th e variously coloured, and made large and loose, with wide sleeves, band being fastened in front just under the bust . Their feet were

in O f i incased sandals, the rudiment the present Eastern sl pper, which r they resembled also in their embroidery and desig n . Thei persons and in apparel, conformity with Oriental taste in all ages, were profusely ‘ ’ decked with ornaments, jewels of silver and jewels of gold, with Si z l dis precious gems of extraordinary e, of which imitations, hard y R E AN D T H E R E T H E CO S T C INOLIN .

tin u ish ab le o f u g from the real stones, were within the reach the h mblest u classes, whose passion for finery could not be surpassed by their s periors . hl al The ric y carved and embroidered sand s, tied over the instep with k o r tassels of gold, were surmounted by gold an lets bangles, which, as well as the bracelets encircling the wrist, sparkled with rare gems ; and

Of O f u necklaces gold or beautif l beads, with a pendant of amethyst pearls, hung from the neck . Almost every finger was jewelled, and the ring finger in particular was usually allotted several rings, while massive earrings shaped like hoops, or sometimes taking the form of a jewelled

Of r . asp or a d agon, adorned the ears Gloves were used at a very early

o f date, and among the other imperishable relics that Olden time the to o f tombs of Egypt have rendered up us a pair striped linen mittens, which once covered the hands of a Theban lady.

W a r omen of qu lity inclosed their hair with a band of gold, f om which r to a flower d ooped over the forehead, while the hair fell in long plaits n the bosom, and behind streamed dow the back to the waist. The side or hair was secured by combs made of polished wood by a gold pin, and ‘ w perhaps was sometimes adorned, like the bro , with a favourite flower.

u z to The toilet was f rnished with a bra en mirror, polished such a degree

Of o f as to reflect every lineament the face, and the belles Egypt, as al ladies of the present day may imagine, spent no sm l portion of their time with this faithful counsellor. The boudoirs were not devoid of an air of luxury and refinement particularly congenial to a modern imagina

. z tion A stand near the ungla ed window supported vases Of flowers, which filled th e room with delicious odours ; a soft carpet overspread the floor ; two or three richly- carved chairs and an embroidered fauteuil afforded easy and inviting seats ; and the lotus and papyrus

z were frescoed on the walls . Besides the bra en mirror, other acces so ries r of the toilet were a ranged on the ebony table, and boxes and

d u caskets grotesquely carve , some containing jewels, others f rnished

- with Oils and Ointments, took their place with quaintly cut smelling T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

z d bottles, wooden combs, silver or bron e bo kins, and lastly, pins and needles .

Seated at this shrine, the Egyptian beauty, with her dark glance z fixed on the bra en mirror, sought to heighten those charms which are w al ays most potent in their native simplicity. A touch of collyrium gave illusive magnitude to her voluptuous eyes ; another cosmetic r — stained their lids ; a delicate b ush pencilled her brows sometimes, alas " imparted a deceitful bloom to her cheeks ; and her taper fingers

o f were coloured with the juice henna. Precious ointments were

o n u poured her hair, and enveloped her in an atmosphere of perf me, ’ ’ while the jeweller s and milliner s arts combined to decorate her ” person . W ’ In Sir Gardner ilkinson s admirable work on ancient Egypt, to which I am indebted for some valuable information, there is a plate representing a lady in a bath with her attendants, drawn from a fa sculpture in a tomb at Thebes, whence we may derive some int idea of the elaborate character Of an Egyptian toilet . Of The lady is seated in a sort pan, with her long hair streaming l over her shou ders, and is supported by the arm of an attendant, who, with her other hand, holds a flower to her nose, while another damsel pours water over her head, and a third washes and rubs down her delicate arms . A fourth maiden receives her jewels, and deposits a l them on a stand, where she aw its the moment when they wi l be again required .

a There appears little doubt that the ancient Isr elitish ladies, amongst l m their a most endless and most co plex articles of adornment, numbered

efli cient the corset in a tolerably form, and of attractive and rich

- material, for we read in the twenty fourth verse of the third chapter of

Isaiah, referring to Divine displeasure manifested against the people of

u a o f a Jer salem and Judah, and the t king away of matters person l “ h ul adornment from the women, that instead Of a girdle t ere sho d be a T H E RSET AN D T H E R E CO C INOLIN .

- Of rent, and instead of well set hair baldness, and instead a stomacher ” Of . a girding sackcloth, and burning instead of beauty Here we have u the coarse, repulsive, nattractive sackcloth held up in marked contrast to the stomacher, which was without question a garment on which much ’ attention was bestowed ; and the following extract from Fullam s History of Woman shows how costly and magnificent was the costume o f th e period “ l o f o r o f a The brida dress a princess Jewish lady r nk, whose

ffi descri parents possessed su cient means , was of the most sumptuous p as r o f tion, may be seen f om the account given that worn by the bride S w of Solomon in the Canticles, and the various articles enumerated ho h ad to the additions which feminine taste already made the toilet . The body was no w clothed in a bodice ascending to the network which and inclosed, rather than concealed, the swelling bust ; jewelled clasps

r Of z z and ea rings, with string s pearls and chains of gold, gave a da ling ff ’ e ect to Oriental beauty. In Solomon s reign silk is said to have been o f sex o we to added to the resources the toilet, and the a sister, Pam h la o f p y , the daughter Patons, the discovery of this exquisite N o f material, in which woman wrested from ature a dress worthy her charms . “ a o f The ordin ry attire of Jewish women was made linen, usually white, without any intermixture of colours, though, in accordance with N 8 ‘ the injunction in umbers xv . 3 , they made fringes in the borders of ’ ‘ their garments, and put upon the fringe of the borders a riband of ’ ‘ blue . Judith, when she sought to captivate Holofernes, put on her

Of Of garments gladness, wherewith she was clad during the life

Manasses her husband ; and she took sandals upon her feet, and put about her bracelets, and her chains, and her rings, and her earrings, and all a th e her ornaments, and decked herself bravely to llure eyes of all ’ a men that should see her. Gemmed bangles encircled her nkles, attracting the glance to her delicate white feet and Holofernes, by an T HE R SE AN D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

‘ Oriental figure of speech, is said to have been ravished by the beauty ’ of her sandals . Like the belles of Egypt she did not disdain, in setting O ff her charms, to have recourse to perfumes and cosmetics, and ‘ ’ previously to setting out she anointed herself with precious ointment .

z ‘ In another place Je ebel is said to paint her eyelids and Solomon , in m u the Proverbs, in describing the deceitful wo an, adj res his son not to ’ ‘ a Of be t ken with her eyelids, evidently alluding to the use collyrium .

The Jewish beauty owed no slight Obligation to her luxuriant tresses, which were decorated with waving plumes and strings Of pearls ; and in allusion to this custom, followed among the tribes from time imme ‘ ’ ’ ff . morial, St . Paul a irms that a woman s ornament is her hair Judith braided the hair of her head and put a tire upon it and the headdress ’ So lomon to P , C , b Of haraoh s daughter in the anticles is compared y , ’ r NO Ca mel . mention is made of Judith s mirror, but it was undoubtedly ‘ . 8 made of brass, like those described in Exodus xxxviii as the looking- glasses of the women which assembled ’ tabernacle congregation .

L ADY o r ANCIENT G REECE . T H E R SE A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

straitlace - saddle their backs and their waists to make them well shaped .

If any chance to grow a little plumper than the rest, they presently cry, ’ ’ m She s an hostess, and then her allowance ust be shortened, and though she be naturally fat and lusty, yet by her dieting she is made as o ne slender as a broomstick . By this means woodcock or another is ” C aught in their springe .

Strutt informs us that the Roman women, married as well as unmarried, used girdles, and besides them they sometimes wore a broad

stro hium swath or bandage round their breasts, called p , which seems to o r have answered the purpose of the bodice stays, and had a buckle or bandage on the left shoulder, and that the mitra or girdle of the Greeks

stro h ium Th e probably resembled the p of the Romans . annexed illustration represents a lady of Ancient Greece . He also speaks of the Muses as being described by Hesiod as being girt with golden “ ” mitra o n , and goes to inform us that Theocritus in one of his pastorals introduces a damsel complaining to a shepherd of his rudeness, to saying he had loosened her mitra or girdle, and tells her he means dedicate the same to Venus . So it will be seen that the waist and its adornment were considered at that early period of the world’ s history

o f no stro hium matters ordinary importance, and whether the term p , z cu stula c o r o f one, mitra, , stays, bodi e, corset is made use , the end sought to be Obtained by their aid was the same . Constant mention is made by early writers of the peplm as being a

i far very elegant garment, and there are not ces of it as back as the to Trojan war, and the ladies Of Troy appear have generally worn it . l On the authority of Strutt, it may be stated to have been a thin ight mantle worn by Grecian ladies above the tunic and we read that Antinous presented to Penelope a beautiful large and variegated peplus, having twelve buckles of gold, with tongues neatly curved . ’ r The peplus, however, was a very splendid part of the lady s d ess, and it is rarely mentioned by Homer without some epithet to distinguish it

H E RS E AN D T H E R T CO T C INOLINE .

b hour of the night . Seated in a palanquin or sedan borne y sturdy flamb eaux chairmen, and preceded by slaves bearing , they made their way through the deserted streets, delighted to arouse and alarm their n eighbours . A close chair conveyed the patrician matron to the spec e a ta les and shows, to which she lways repaired in great state, surrounded by her servants and slaves, the dependants of her husband, and the f clients of her house, all wearing the badge of the particular action she espoused . The factions of the circus were four in number, and were v red distinguished by their respecti e colours of blue, green, white, and ,

wh o z o f to which Domitian, was a ealous patron the Circensian games, added the less popular hues o f gold and purple. But the spectators to o r generally attached themselves either the blue the green, and the latter was the chief favourite, numbering among its adherents emperors and empresses, senators, knights, and noble dames, as well as the great mass of the people, who, when their champions were defeated, carried their partisanship to such an extreme that the streets were repeatedly o f m deluged with the blood the blues, and ore than once the safety of the state was imperilled by these disgraceful commotions . “ The public walks and gardens were a fashionable resort Of the

Roman ladies . There they presented themselves in rich costume, which to o wn bore testimony alike the wealth Of their husbands and their taste . w o r a A yello tire hood partly covered, but did not conce l, their piled o f o r hair ; their vest muslin sarcenet, clasped with gems, was draped with a murry- coloured robe descending to thei r high-heeled Greek

- boots ; necklaces Of emerald hung from their swan like necks, and jewelled earrings from their ears ; diamonds glittered on their fingers, ” z z and their da ling complexions were shielded from the sun by a parasol .

O f The researches Strutt show us that the shoes of the ladies, and especially among the Romans, proved a very expensive part of the dress .

o f dId In general they were white, but persons Opulence not confine W . e r w themselves to any colour find them black, sca let, purple, yello ,

T H E R S E AN D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

discommended by an ancient poet . Persons of rank had slaves to ffi perform for them the O ces of the toilet . They held the mirror in a their hand themselves and gave directions, and Marti l tells us that , if the n a slaves unfortu ately placed hairpin wrong, or omitted to twist the d curls exactly as they were ordere , the mirror was thrown at the ’ fien er s to o d head, or, according Juvenal, the whip was applied with

. ai n much severity The h r was adorned with orname ts of gold, with

r pea ls and precious stones, and sometimes with garlands or chaplets of

flowers . It was also bound with fillets and ribbons of various colours

- and kinds . The net or hair caul for the purpose o f inclosing the hinder part of the hair was in general use with the Grecian and Roman

. re ladies These ornaments were f quently enriched with embroidery, and sometimes made so thin that Martial sarcastically called them ” bladders .

. o f earrin s Again, in the matter g , we quote from the same valuable NO m o f and trustworthy authority. adorn ent the head claims priority n to earrings . They have been fashio able, as Montfaucon justly observes, al l ages and almost all nations . It is evident from Homer that the

Grecian women bored their ears for the admission of these ornaments .

to The poet gives earrings the goddess Juno, and the words he uses on the occasion are literally these In her well- perforated ears she put the ” o f - earrings elaborate workmanship, having three eyes in each that is, t three pendants or jewels, ei her made in the form of eyes, or so called

from their brightness . The extravagance of the Grecian and Roman ladies in the purchase O f these articles o f adornment almost exceeds “ Red belief. Pliny says, They seek for pearls at the bottom of the to Sea, and search the bowels of the earth for emeralds ornament their ears and Seneca tells us that “ a single pair of earrings was worth e the rev nue of a large estate, and that some women would wear at their ” two W e n ears the price of or three patrimonies . read that the earri gs 1 6 8 t a worn by Cleopatra were valued at 5 , and tha Servili , the T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

a ae mother of Brutus, was presented with pair by Julius C sar, the value of which was

o f Bracelets are also ornaments high antiquity, as are rings and d brooches of various forms for fastening the ress . Rich gold chains and jewelled fastenings were in common u se during this period . The annexed illustration represents a Roman lady o f

i e rank about the reign of Heliogabalus . Little alterat on appears to hav taken place in the general style of costume for some very considerable period of time, and the patrician ladies concealed beneath their flowing

r o f fo r d aperies a kind corset, which they tightened very considerably, a o slight and tapering waist was lo ked upon as a great beauty in women, S and great attention was paid to the formation of the figure, in pite of all that has been written about the purely natural and statuesque forms of the Roman matrons . On the conquest of the Roman Empire by the wild and savage Hunnish tribes , fashion, art, taste, literature, and civilisa tion - were swept ruthlessly away, and a long, weird night of mental darkness may be said to have reigned thro u g h o rrt the land from the

h o f o r tent to the middle the fifteenth century, and we see little nothing of Roman elegance o r magnificence of dress to distinguish it above other n f ations rom that period.

0 T H E R S E A ND T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

CHAPTER III . — — l adies o f Old F rance Thei r fashio ns during th e reign o f King Pepin Revival o f the — ” — taste fo r small waists Intro ductio n o f cotter bardicr Mo nkish satire o n the Co rse t

n n e ear 1 n t —T sm a s f in En a d i th 0 curi o us MS . re a i o he a w s th e gl y 43 , l t g ll i t o

i r ee n ce n ur —T h e anci en o em o f Laun aI—T h e L ad T i iamO i e dau er th t th t y t p f y , ght

o f the i n o f th e ai ri es— uri o us en r i n the o use o d re i s e r o f E e ano r K g F C t y h h l g t l ,

o uness o f L e ce s e r da e 1 2 6 — rse s wo rn b e n e men at a e i i —T h e C t i t , t 5 Co t y g tl th t p o d

i rt e as wo rn i n En and—T he enance o f ane S o re— ress o f anc e dau er k l gl p J h D Bl h , ght — ’ — o f Edward III D unbar s s rt/e and Rare Admi ratio n fo r small waists inS co t — ’ — — land ln th e o lden time Chaucer s writings Small waists admired in his day T he — — use o f th e surcoat i n England Reckl ess hardi ho o d o f a de te rmined tailo r T h e ’ — surco at wo rn by Marie d A nJou o f F rance Italian supremacy in matte rs o f dress

T he Medi a E s e and V isco n — o s u me o f an a an duc ess desmibs d rea s , t , ti C t It li h F k — — o f fashi on i n F rance and Germany L o ng trains L aws to restrain th e l e ngth o f

s r s—Sna e- o ed s o es ve ace to - ee ed s ers ki t k t h gi pl high h l lipp .

ESEARC H fails to show us that the ladies of France in their simple Hersvmg ian and Carlovingian dresses paid any attention to the

i i o r format on of the wa st its display . But during the ninth century we d find the dresses worn extremely tight, and so made as to efine the waist and render i t as sl i m as poss ible ; and although the art of making the description of corsets worn by the ladies of Rome was no doubt at that a time lost, the revived taste for slender figures led to the peculi r form of

cotter bardier ff corsage , known as , which were much sti ened and worn

- extremely tight . These took the place of the quaint, oddly formed ’ ’ hil ri s robes we see draping the figures of C de c and Pepin s queens . The ” cotter bardier were, moreover, clasped at the waist by a broad belt, and m see pretty well to have merited their martial name . Very soon after this period it is probable that a much more complete description of

d no t corset was invente , although we do find any marked representation 1 0 t of its form until 43 . A manuscript of tha date at present in the T H E R SE A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

British Museum bears on it the strange and anomalous figure represented in the annexed illustration . Opinions vary somewhat as to whether its origin might not have been Italian, but we see no reason for adopting w o f this vie , and consider it as decidedly home production . It will be r seen that the shoulder, upper pa t of the arm, and figure are those of a

- well formed female, who wears an unmistakable corset, tightly laced, and ff o f sti ened by two busks in front, from one which the lace, with a tag at the end, depends . The head, wings, tail , feet, and claws are all those o f d to a demon or fiend . The rapery is worn so long as render large d o n knots in it requisite to prevent ragging the ground . The ring held in the left claw is of gold, and probably intended to represent a massive to and costly bracelet . Produced, as this MS . appears have been, o f during the reig n Edward the Confessor, there is little doubt that o n it was a severe monkish satire the prevailing fashion, and a most ungallant warning to the male sex that alabaster shoulders and slender waists were to o often associated with attributes o f a rather brimstone o f ai character, and that an inordinate love long, tr ling garments and ornaments o f precious metals were snares and enticements of a sinister

t o n . nature . Many of the figures o be found ancient MSS after this period show by their contour that the corset was worn beneath the

r 1 6 o f drape y, and Strutt , whose work was published in 79 , thus writes the customs relating to dress in the period following shortly after In the thirteenth century, and probably much prior to that period, a long and slender waist was considered by our ancestors as a criterion o f

W e elegance in the female form . ought not, therefore, to wonder if it be prov e d that the tight lacing and compressing o f the body was practised by the ladies even in early times, and especially by such ” of them as were inclined to be corpulent . He then, in order to show at vh at an early date of the history o f this count ry a confirmed taste for small waists existed, quotes from a very ancient poem, entitled

Launctl Triamore f , in which the Lady , daughter of the King of the R E E R E T H E CO S T AN D T H C INOLIN .

are Fairies, and attendant ladies described . Of two of the latter it is said The ir kirtles were o f rede ce nde lf

aced sma e o ll f and we I l ll , j y , ll: ” Th ere might no ne gayer g o .

In the French version of the same poem it is, we read, more fully “ expressed . It says, They were richly habited and very tightly laced . The Lady Triamo re is thu s described

Th e ad was in a ur e a l y p pl p ll , With g entill bo dye and middle small W harton quotes from an ancient poem, which he believes to date as

m o o o f far back as , in which a lover, speaking of the object his n admiratio , thus throws down the gauntlet of challenge, and exclaims

M dd e h er sh e a mens m i l h th k s all .

nsk o r maint me . S The word being used instead of very or. much ome differences of opinion have existed among writers as to the origin of the

corset. cor s word Some are of Opinion that the French words p , the

serrer body, and (to tightly inclose or incase) , led to the adoption of the term. Madame La Sante gives it as her opinion, however, that it is

cor s more probably a corruption of the single word p , which was formerly

cors ma o f written , and y be taken as a diminutive form it . Another Vi ew of the matter has been that the name o f a rich material called corse o ne o f , which was at time extensively used in the manufacture corsets, may have been thus corrupted . This is scarcely probable, as

to the word corset was in use at o early a period to admit of that origin . Perhaps as early an instance of the use of the term corset as any in existence may be found as a portion of an entry in the household register o f 2 1 2 6 Eleanor, Countess of Leicester, which bears the date May 4, 5

r c descr o n o f si A i h ipti lk. T H E R E T H E CO R S ET A N D C INOLIN .

“ u lnis Pariensis aestivas et clo h Item : Pro ix radii . pro robas corsetto c ia d m ” 9“ pro eo e . t r The persons for whom these garmen s we e made were Richard, N e d King of the ormans, and Edward, his son, whos eath occurred in the

0 So a year I 3 8 . that corsets were, even in those e rly days, used by

as gentlemen well as ladies . l so to The term kirt e , often referred to, may not clearly convey the d r mind of the mo e n reader the nature of the garment indicated by it, ’ to Strutt s i o f it and therefore it may not be amiss give descript on . He “ ‘ ’ i kertel o f says, The kirtle, or, as it was anciently wr tten , is a part the dress used by the men and the women, but especially by the latter . It ” o f o f i was sometimes a habit state, and worn by persons h gh rank . The “ ” m s urcol kirtle garment someti es called a Chaucer renders , and we hi s t ri have no reason to dispute au ho ty. Kirtles are very frequently s to ff mentioned in old romance . They are said have been of di erent o f ff o f i textures and di erent colours, but especially green ; and somet mes to swered they were laced closely the body, and probably a the purpose o f o r — wide Laun al dto the bodice stays f , before referre

e r i r es were o f rede cendel Th i k tl , ” aced sma e oll f and we . I l ll , j y , ll

to o f To appear in a kirtle only seems have been a mark servitude. o f Lado re o f Thus the lady Sir , when he feasted the king, by way courtesy waited at th e table

T h e ad was ent ll and sma l y g y ll,

I n r e ki tl alo ne sh e served in hall .

W e are further informed that at the close o f the fifteenth century it a was used as a habit of penance, and we read th t Jane Shore, when performing penance, walked barefoot, a lighted taper in her hand, and

I em F o r nne e s Par s measure fo r summer robes corse s and c o a s fo r the same . t i ll , i , , t , l k

THE PR R o r E W R . INCESS BLANCHE , DAUGHTE D A D III

R E T H E CO R S ET AN D T H E C INOLIN .

That the taste for slender figures was not confined to England will be ’ Tbistle and Rose shown by the following quotation from Dunbar s . When the belles of Scotland grouped together are described he tells u s that

r m Their middles we e as s all as wands.

A great number of ancient writings descriptive o f female beauty go clearly to prove that both slenderness and length o f waist were held in the highest esteem and considered indispensable elements of elegance, and there can be no question that such being the case no pains were spared to acquire the coveted grace a very small, long, and round r waist conferred on its possessor. The lowe classes were not Slow in o f n imitating their superiors, and the practice tight laci g prevailed throughout every grade of society. This was the case even as far back ’ ’ 1 0 . as Chaucer s day, about 34 He, in describing the carpenter s wife,

- Speaks of her as a handsome, well made young female, and informs us “ ” ” that her body was genteel (or elegant) and small as a weasel, and immediately afterwards that she was

” L o n as a mas e and u r h as a bo . g t , p ig t lt

Notwithstanding the strict way in which the waist was laced during to the thirteenth century, the talents of the ingenious were directed the construction of some article of dress which should reduce the figure to S t S till more slender proportions, and the following remarks by Strut how that tight lacing was much on the increase from the thirteenth to th e fourteenth centuries . He says

f one A small waist was decidedly, as we have seen be ore, criterion

i ts of a beautiful form, and, generally speaking, length was currently regu

in . lated by a just idea of elegance, and especially the thirteenth century In the fourteenth the women seem to have contracted a vitiated taste, f and not being content with their orm as God hath made it, introduced ’ ‘ Lanv o r RANK o r THE THI RTEE NI H C amuav .

T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

— the corset or bodice a stiff and unnatural disguisement even in its ” origin . “ How far this newly- introduced form of the corset became a dis ” u isement g will be best judged of by a glance at the foregoing illustration, which represents a lady in the dress worn just at the close of the

m surcoat intro du c thirteenth century. The ter was given , to this new tion . This in many instances was worn over the dress somewhat after

- the manner of the body of a riding habit, being attached to the skirt,

S . S which preads into a long trailing train An old author, peaking of these articles of dress, thus writes t o surcoats There came me two women wearing , longer than they r were tall by about a yard, so that they were obliged to car y their trains upon their arms to prevent their trailing upon the ground, and ” they had sleeves to these surcoats reaching to the elbows . men Th e trains of these dresses at length reached such formidable di

o f sions that Charles V . France became so enraged as to cause an edict to be issued hurling threats of excommunication at the heads of all those who dared to wear a dress which terminated “ like the tail of a ” serpent .

Notwithstanding this tremendously alarming threat, a tailor was found fully equal to the occasion, who, in spite of the terrors inspired by

-h candle, bell , and book, set to work (lion earted man that he was) and

du made a magnificent surcoat for Madame Gatinais, which not only n v e ards Brussels trailed far behi d on the ground, but actually tookfi y of ” net or sleev es w hich also trailed f , . History, or even tradition, fails to inform us what dreadful fate overtook this desperate tailor after the performance of a feat so recklessly daring ; b u t we can scarcely fancy that his end could have been of the kind common to tailors of less

audacious depravity . ff The bodies of these surcoats were very much sti ened, and so

made as to admit of being laced with extreme tightness . They were

ma . L ADY OF THE COURT OF QUEEN CATHERINE DE Ma

F “ ULL R R As ORN R 1515 . COU T D ESS F ANCE , T H E R E AN D T H E R E CO S T C INOLIN .

ff . n e ected The le gth of the sleeves was much curtailed, and the preposterously long toes of the shoes reduced to a convenient standard .

The ladies appear to have for some time resisted the innovation, but one

Poulaine, an ingenious Parisian shoemaker, happening to devise a very attractive shoe with a heel fitted to it, the ladies hailed joyfully the

t - new favouri e, and the old snake toed shoe passed away . Still , it was no uncommon thing to see some fop of the period with one shoe white

other black, or one boot and one shoe .

' NO RMAN HEAnnRE s s O F THE PRESEM DA ) .

T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

‘ “ - S the uffn a m of gold coloured ilk, and p i gs are sep rated fro each other by an arrangement of precious stones ; the front of the dress is also profusely ornamented in the same manner ; the frill or ruff was made

. from costly lace from Venice or Genoa, and was invented by this very n charming but unfortu ate lady ; the form of the waist is , as will be e S seen on referenc to this illustration, long, and hows by its contour

- the full influence of the tightly laced corset beneath the dress, which fits the figure with extraordinary accuracy. At this time Fashion held such despotic sway throughout the continent of Europe, that the Emperor Joseph of Austria, following

e . out his extraordinary penchant for the passing of dicts, and becoming alarmed at the formidable lures laid out for the capture of mankind by sex law the fair , passed a rigorously forbidding the use of the corset in all nunneries and places where young females were educated ; and no less a threat than that of excommunication, and the loss of all the

u C ff ind lgences the hurch was capable of a ording, hung over the heads of all those evil-disposed damsels who persisted i n M reasonable manner in the practice of confining their waists with such evil instruments as stays . S Royal command, like an electric hock, startled the College of Physicians z Sin into activity and eal, and learned dissertations on the crying of tight lacing were scattered broadcast amongst the ranks of the benighted and

' - e tight laced ladies of the time, much as the advertis ments of cheap furnishing ironmongers are hurled into the West- End omnibuses of our own day . It is proverbial that gratuitous advice is rarely followed by ‘ the recipient . Open defiance was in a very short time bid to the edicts of the emperor and the erudite dissertations of the doctors . The corsets were, if possible, laced tighter than ever, and without anything very n particular happeni g to the world at large in consequence .

On Queen Catherine de Medici, who, it will be seen, was a l een z contemporary of Q Eli abeth of England, assuming the position of LADY OF THE COU RT OF CHARLES V III l Lt U

R E . RM F RANC i s F ANC LADY O F CO URT O E MAXIMILIAN GE ANY T H E R SE A N D T H E R CO T C INOLIN E .

CORSET-COVE R OF STEEL WORN 1 N THE TIME or CATHERINE DE MEDICI .

n F n power she so lo g maintained at the court of ra ce, costume and ’ s fa hion became her study, and at no period of the world s history were

E AN D T HE R E T H E CO R S T C INOLIN .

f contrivance the form of the air wearer was incased, when a system of gradual and determined constriction was followed out until the waist wn in arrived at the required degree of slenderness, as sho the annexed “ ” steel corsets Of illustration . Several writers have mentioned the this d perio , and assumed that they were used for the purpose of forcibly

z reducing the si e of the waist . In this opinion they were incorrect, as the steel framework in question was simply used to wear over the corset after the waist had been reduced by lacing to the required standard, in order that the dress over it might fit with inflexible and unerring exactness, and that not even a fold might be seen in the fault

h r less stomacher then worn . T ese corsets (or, mo e correctly, corset v co ers) were constructed of very thin steel plate, which was cut out and

- v wrought into a species of open work pattern, with a iew to giving N lightness to them . umbers of holes were drilled through the flat o f surfaces between the hollows the pattern, through which the needle and thread were passed in covering them accurately with velvet, silk, or ( other rich materials . During the reign of b een Catherine de Medici, to whom is attributed the invention of these contrivances, they became great favourites, and were much worn, not only at her court, but throughout the greater part of the continent .

They were made in two pieces, opened longitudinally by hinges,

bas and in and were secured when closed by a sort of p p , much like an a ordin ry box fastening . At both the front and back of the corsage a n long rod or bar of steel projected in a curved direction dow wards, and on these bars mainly depended the adjustment of the long peaked body d of the ress, and the set of the skirt behind . The illustration at

1 - page 7 gives a view of one of those ancient dress improvers . ’ The votaries of fashion of Qi een Eli z abeth s court were not slow in imitating in a rough manner the new continental invention, and the 2 6 illustrations at pages 7 and 7 , taken from photog raphs, will show that,

i - Of although not precisely al ke, the steel corset covers England were

R H R R R M R R T o r R . EN Y III . OF F ANCE AND THE P INCESS A GA E LO AINE

LADY OF THE COURT OF QUEEN E LI z ARETH .

A V E NETi AN O E F ASHi ON 15 60 LADY ,

H QUEEN E L1ZABET . T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

z ff extravagant taste could lavish was bestowed . The Eli abethan ru , large as it was, bore no comparison with this , and was worn as shown in “ ” i ee n the accompanying portrait of the Virgin Q , who indulged in

' artifices ru fls numerous for heightening her personal attractions . The

o f o f z and frills the period so excited the ire Philip Stubs, a citi en of

d 1 8 o ut London , that in his work , ated 5 5 , he thus launches against them in the quaint language of the time

vse ff neckerch ers o f The women there great ru es and holland,

cameruke al laune, , and such clothe as the greatest threed sh l not be so f big as the least haire that is, and lest they should all downe they are ’ li u o r I e starch e smeared and starched in the devil s q, m an ; after that dried with great diligence, streaked, patted, and rubbed very nicely, and so to vnder rO ed applied their goodly necks, and withal p pp with o f supportasses (as I told you before) , the stately arches pride ; beyond inferio u r all this they have a further fetche, nothing to the rest, as

— ff radation namely three or four degrees of minor ru es placed g ,

al deu ilru ffe . skirtes beneath another, and under the mayster The , mfle s are r then, of these great long and wide, eve y way pleated and " o f crested full curiously, God wot Then, last all, they are either

r all clogged with gold, silver, or silk lace of stately price, w ought over needlewo rke s eckeled s arke led with , p and p here and there with the

to sunne, the mone, the starres, and many other antiques strange b eh o lde w o rke . Some are wrought with open downe to the midst of the ff wo rke w th ru e, and further, some with close , some y purled lace so clo ied ff t , and other gewgaws so pestered, as the ru e is the least par e of itselfe to eare s . Sometimes they are pinned upp their , sometimes they ff th e r S windemill are su ered to hange over y houlders, like sailes fluttering in the winde ; and thus every o ne pleaseth her selfe in her foolish ” devises . In the matter o f false hair her majesty (b een Eli z abeth was a perfect n connoisseur, having, so it is said, eighty changes of various ki ds always on

E S E A N D T H E R E T H CO R T C INOLIN .

’ - wear garters and shoe roses of more than five pounds price . The dress of a gentleman was not considered perfect without a dagger and rapier. The former was worn at the back, and was highly ornamented . The latter ’ n z havi g superseded, about the middle of Eli abeth s reign, the heavy

- d n d two handed swor , previously used in E gland, was, indee , chiefly h worn as an ornament, the ilt and scabbard being always profusely ” decorated . T H E RSE AN D T H E R CO T C INOLIN E.

CHAPTER V . — — Strange freaks of L ou ise de L orraine O ne o f h er adventure s H er dre ss at a royal fi t: — — — — ’ Marie de Medici The distended dresses o f h er time Hair-po wder C o stume a — — — [a enfant Escapade o f th e young L o uis Lo w dresses of the pe rio d T h e co urt o f

L o u s XI V Of rance— an s mes - T h e . ee s s ender wa s s and c co u i F High h l , l i t , f y t

S e s re ss— ar o f En an —P r —E abo ra e co s u mes Of iam e d Ch les I . gl d atch e s int o duced l t t ’ the e r o d—Pur ansm its e ffe c o n the s o ns— as o ns in ro mwe s me and p i it i , t fa hi F hi C ll ti , — th e general prevalence o f the practice o f tight-lacing T h e ladies o f Augsbu rg

described by H o ech stetterus. LITTLE change appears to have taken place in the prevailing fashions of Eng land for some considerable time after this period . In n France two opposing i fluences sprang up . Henry III . , as we have seen, was the slave of fashion, and mainly occupied his time in devising Of some new and extravagant article raiment . His wife, Louise de d Lorraine, on the other hand, although exceedingly han some, was of a m t n mo re like gloomy, ste , and ascetic disposi io , dressing o a nun than the

u wife of so gay a husband. She caused n merous sumptuary laws to be ’ framed, in order to, if possible, reduce the style of ladies dress to a standard nearer her own ; and the following anecdote will serve to Show the petty spirit in which her powers were sought to be exercised. l A writer on her ife says, She was accustomed to go out on foot s with but a single attendant, both habited plainly in ome woollen fabric, ’ Sh O and one day, on entering a mercer s p in the Rue St . Denis, she encountered the wife of a president tricked out superbly in the latest n fashions of the day. The subject did not recog ise the sovereign, who ‘ inquired her name, and received for answer that she was called La é Pr sidente de the information being given curtly, and with the ‘ ’ additional remark, to satisfy your curiosity. To this the queen replied, ‘ é are But, Madame la Pr sidente, you very smart for a person of your ’ n was d co dition . Still the interrogator not recognise , and Madame la ‘ COU RI D RESS Du Ri Nu 'IHE BO YHOO D O B LOUIS XIII

MARIE MEDICI

F ANCY C O S I UME S o r i H E TI ME o r LOLI S XIV

n'm'I H

L XI V . S IAMESE DR ESS WORN AT COU RT OF OUIS T H E R S E AN D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

“ our o me ace F lip anta ou d s u se Y h ly f , p , y i g i ’ With patches numero us as A rgus eyes ’ o wn a a c n s re u s e fo r o u I th t p t hi g q i it y , ’ F o r mo re we re pleased the less your face we view

Y et adv se s nce m adv ce ou ask I i , i y i y ,

ear but o ne a c and be a a c a mas . W p t h , th t p t h k

The fashions set by the court of Louis were eagerly sei z ed on by ff the whole of Europe. The flowing curls, lace cu s, and profuse e mbroidery in use at the court of Charles of England were all borrowed

from France, but the general licence and laxity of the period for some fickleness short time showed itself in the dress of the ladies, whilst and n love of cha ge, accompanied by thoughtless luxury and profusion, pre ’ - . 1 6 1 vailed The following complaint of a lady s serving man, dated 3 , will Show that the Puritans were not Wi thout reason in condemning the extravagances of the time : ’ Here is a catalogue as tedious as a taylor s bill of all devices which I commanded to provide (v idelicet)

“ a ns co ro ne s endans brace e s and earr n s Ch i , t , p t , l t , i g ,

P ns rd e s s an es embro idaries and r n s i , gi l , p gl , , i g ,

Sh ado mes rebatacs r bbands ruffs cuffs a s , , i , , , f ll ,

Scar s ea ers ans maskes muffes aces cau s f , f th , f , , , l , l ,

n ffanes cobweb awn and fardin ales Thi ti i , l , g ,

Sw sa s v le s w m es asses crum n ns eet l , y , i pl , gl , pi g pi ,

Po s o f nmen co mbs w o n -s c s and bo d ns t Oi t t, , ith p ki g ti k , ki ,

C o fe s o r e s r n es ro we s e s and air aces y , g g t , f i g , l , fill t , h l ,

S s damas s ve ve s nse s c o Of o d ilk , k , l t , ti l , l th g l ,

ssues w co o urs a u dred o d Of ti ith l h n f l , But in her tyres so new- fangled is she

a w c do w h er umo ur now a ree Th t hi h th ith h g , T o -mo rro w sh e dislikes no w do th she swear

a a o sse bo d is th e nea es weare Th t l y t t , But e re an ho ur be go ne sh e will pro test

sti ait o n ra es h er ro ort o nbe s A g w g c p p i t . T H E R SE AN D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

No w ca s sh e for a bo s ero us fardin ale ll i t g , ’ h r s s e ave h er armens The nto e hip h ll h g t fall . ’ No w do she ra se a s eeve a s o n and w de th p i l th t l g i , Y et by and by that fashio ndo th deride ;

me mes Sh e a auds a avemen - swee n ra n So ti ppl p t pi g t i , A nd presently dispraiseth it again No w sh e co mmands a Shallo w band so small That it may seem scarce any band at all

But no w a new anc do sh e reele f y th , A nd calls fo r o ne as big as a co ach -wh eele ’ S e weare a flo wr co ro ne to -da h ll y t y, ’ T h e symbo l o f h er beauty s sad decay

T o -morro w sh e a wav n ume w tr i g pl ill y, T h e emblem o f all female levitie ;

No w inher h at en inh er a r is dres , th h i t, n ” Now o f all fashions she thinks cha ge th e best.

On Puritanism becoming general the style o f dress adopted “ ” so- d called Roundhea s, as a contrast to that of the hated Cavaliers, ’ ff to C was sti , prim, and formal a degree ; and during romwell s sway as ff Protector, small waists, sti corsets, and very tight lacing again became

wh o 1 6 S o f the fashion ; and Bulwer, writes in 5 3 , in peaking the young “ ladies of his day, says, They strive all they possibly can by streight

to - lacing themselves attain unto a wand like smallness of waist, never ” thinking themselves fine enough until they can span their waists .

wfi rk Tbe Art cial The annexed illustration, adapted by us from his , ifi Cloan elin wh o g g , represents a young lady has achieved the desired

. Ho ech stetteru s d tenuity He also quotes from , who in his escription of “ ” Aus ur e Sw efuia 1 6 p g , the metropolis of , 5 3 (meaning Augsburg, the “ ” Of Suabia capital ) , They are, saith he, describing the virgins of “ ‘ ’ A u s ur e S denzisse m p g , lender, streight laced, with ( ping) shoulders, lest being grosse and well made they should be thought to have too ” athleti u e 8 0 qbodies . throu ghout the length and breadth of Europe

- the use of tightly laced corsets remained general .

FANCY DRESS WORN IN THE REIGN OF LOUIS XV.

COS TUMES AFI‘ ER WA l'I E AU

1713 . CRINOLINE IN H E R E A N D T H E R E T CO S T C INOLIN .

The accompanying illustration will Show that these remonstrances

were not without cause.

The fashion of wearing extremely low dresses, with particularly

short skirts, also led to much correspondence and many strong remarks,

G uardian which are duly commented on by the editor of the , assisted by “ ” “ ” ood old lad z his g y, as he calls her, the Lady Li ard . Thus he writes on the subject under discussion :

Editorial letter . “ G UA R A ul 1 6 1 1 DI N , 7 y , 7 3 . “ I am very well pleased with this approbation of my good sisters . ’ 1 must confess I have always looked on the ‘ tucker to be the decus et

tutatnen . , the ornament and defence of the female neck My good old

z lady, the Lady Li ard, condemned this fashion from the beginning, and has Observed to me, with some concern, that her sex at the same time S they are letting down their tays are tucking up their petticoats, which w gro shorter and shorter every day . The leg discovers itself in propor c tion with the neck, but I may possibly take another oc asion of handling k this extremity, it being my design to eep a watchful eye over every a p rt of the female sex, and to regulate them from head to foot . In the meantime I shall fill up my paper with a letter which comes to me from ” another of my obliged correspondents .

That these very low dresses were not alone worn in the house and al at assemblies, but were also occasion ly seen on the promenades, is shown by the following satirical appeal to the editor of the journal from th e l which we have just been quoting, and accompanying i lustration represents the too- fascinating style o f costume which caused its writer so much concern

Notwithstanding your grave advice to the fair sex not to lay th e o f find beauties their necks so open, I they mind you so little that we T H E R SE AN D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

. v young men are as much in danger as ever Yesterday, about se en in the evening, I took a walk with a gentleman, just come to town, in a We public walk . had not walked above two rounds when the spark

a sudden pretended weariness, and as I importuned him to stay longer ‘ W ’ he turned short, and, pointing out a celebrated beauty, hat, said

‘ do o u he, y think I am made of, that I could bear the sight of such ’ i ? . snowy beaut es She is intolerably handsome Upon this we parted, to a and I resolved t ke a little more air in the garden, yet avoid the w danger, by casting my eyes do nwards ; but,to my unspeakable surprise, discovered in the same fair creature the finest ankle and prettiest foot If ‘ that ever fancy imagined . the petticoats as well as the stays thus ? n diminish, what shall we do, dear Mentor It is either safe to look at

o f W S the head nor the feet the charmer. hither hall we direct our ? o f I eyes I need not trouble you with my description her, but beg you would consider that your wards are frail and mortal . “ Your most obedient servant, “E PERN EC T I SES.

no r c w There is source, perhaps, f om which a learer vie of the fashions of this period, and mode of thought then entertained concerning them, could be Obtained than the antiquated journal we have just quoted r o f f om . The Opinions therein expressed, and the system reasoning adopted by some of the contributors to its columns, are so singularly quaint that we cannot resist giving the reader the benefit of them . The happy vein of philosophy possessed by the writer of the following letter

- must have made the world a mere pleasure garden, through which he “ ” own w u z wandered at his s eet will, king of the niverse

UA R A Frida M a 8t/9 1 1 . G DI N, y, y , 7 3 W f se a viz . hen I walk the streets u the foregoing natural m xim ( ,

‘ and that he is the true possessor of a thing who enjoys it, not he that n ' ow s it without the enjoyment o f it) to convince myself that I have a

T H E R SE A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

w property in the gay part of all the gilt chariots that I meet, hich I regard as amusements designed to delight the eye and the imagination of those kind people who sit in them gaily attired only to please me . I have a real and they only an imaginary pleasure from their exterior embellishments . Upon the same principle I have discovered that I am S the natural proprietor of all the diamond necklaces, the crosses and tars, brocades and embroidered cloths which I see at a play or birthnight, as giving more natural delight to the Spectator than to those who wear them ; and I look o n the beaux and ladies as so many paroquets in an aviary, or tulips in a garden, designed purely for my diversion . A o f v gallery pictures, a cabinet , or library that I ha e free access to, I s wh o think my own . In a word, all that I desire is the use of thing , let will have the keeping of them . By which maxim I am growing one of ff the richest men in Great Britain, with this di erence, that I am not a to o wn prey my cares or the envy of others .

o f The reply to the foregoing letter by a lady fashion, written with

o f u a strong dash satire, is equally curio s in its way, as it shows the great importance attached to a pleasing and attractive exterior

To tloe Ed to toe UA R D A i r of G I N .

T s M a th 1 ue da 1 1 . y, y 9 , 7 3 “ S I R — I o f , am a lady birth and fortune, but never knew till last Thursday that the splendour o f my equipage was so beneficial to my country . I will not deny that I have dressed for some years out of the pride of my heart, but am very glad that you have so far settled my conscience in that particular that no w I can look upon my vanities as so e many virtu s, since I am satisfied that my person and garb give pleasure ’ - n r to my fellow creatures . I shall not thi k the th ee hours business

I usually devote to my toilette below the dignity of a rational soul . I am content to suffer great torment from my stays that my shape may

H E R SE A ND T H E R E ‘ T CO T C INOLIN .

‘ T h e Mulcibers who in th e M no r es swea i i t,

A nd mass ve bars o n s ubbo rn anv s bea i t il t,

D e o rmed emse ves et o r e o se s a s o f s ee f th l , y f g th t y t l ’ Which arm Aurelia with a shape to kill . This was no sooner over but it was easily discernable what an

- ill natured satisfaction most of the company took , and the more pleas they showed by dwelling upon the two last lines, the more they increased

and . no w my trouble confusion And , sir, after this tedious account, ? what would you advise me to Is there no way to be cleared o f these malicious calumnies ? What is beauty worth that makes th e possessed ? thus unhappy Why was Nature so lavish of her gifts to me as to ? make her kindness prove a cruelty They tell me my shape is delicate, w my eyes sparkling, my lips I kno not what, my cheeks, forsooth, adorned with a just mixture of the rose and lillie ; but I wish this face o barely not disagreeable, this voice harsh and unharmoni us, these

easie limbs only not deformed, and then perhaps I might live and unmolested, and neither raise love and admiration in the men, nor scandal and hatred in the women .

Your very humble servant, A R A CL IN .

“ ’ Editor s Re l to Letter o Tbursda une 1 8th 1 1 py f y, y , 7 3 .

The best answer I can make my fair correspondent is, that she ought to comfort herself with this consideration , that those who talk thus ’ of her know it is false, but wish to make others believe it is true . Tis not they think you deformed, but are vexed that they themselves were ’ Old not so nicely framed . If you will take an man s advice, laugh and no t be concerned at them ; they have attained what they endeavoured if u neasie d they make you , for it is envy that has ma e them . I would not

o ne o f have you with your shape fiftieth part an inch disproportioned, nor desire your face might be impoverished with the ruin of half a

i i feature, though numbers of rema n ng beauties might make the loss T H E R SE A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

a insensible ; but take courage, go into the brightest ssemblies, and the world will quickly confess it to be scandal . Thus Plato, hearing it was — ‘ asserted by some persons that he was a very bad man I Shall take ’ ‘ i ’ care, said he, to live so that nobody w ll believe them .

’ The milliners and lady s - maids of the time were expected to fu lly understand all matters relating to the training of the figure .

A writer of this period, in speaking of the requisite accomplishments — of a mantua maker, says She must know how to hide all the defects S the proportions of the body, and must be able to mould the hape by the stays so as to preserve the intestines, that while she corrects the body she may not interfere with the pleasures of the palate . Some difference o f opinion has existed as to the period at which the ” word stays was first used to indicate an article of dress Of the nature

' o r of the corset bodice. It is evident that the term must have been to 1 1 perfectly familiar long anterior 7 3 , as constant use is made of it in 1 2 0 the letters we have just given . Gay, who wrote about 7 , also avails himself o f it in Tbe Toilette

o wnh er a er o rm is made to ease I t p f pl , Y et if you saw h er unco nfined by stay s

“ ” “ b oddice bodies The word , or bodice, was not unfrequently spelt by old authors, amongst whom may be mentioned Ben Jonson, who wrote 1 60 0 about , and mentions

T h e whalebone man ha u s the di h T t q ilt bo es I ave leave to span. D T E R E T H E CO R SET AN H C INOLIN .

R VII CHAPTE .

” — General use of th e word stays after 1 60 0 in England Costume of th e court o f L V — ress in 1 6—T h e o rm dab e s a s and seve re co ns r c o n enh ou is X I . D 77 f i l t y t i ti th ad — — recourse to Th e stays drawn by Ho garth Dress during the F rench revo lutio nary — — — perio d Sho rt waists and lo ng trains Writings of Bu chan J umpers and Gari ” — - — baldis Return to th e o ld practice o f tight lacing Training o f figures : backbo ards and s o c s— Med ca ev dence in avour of s a s— as o n in th e re no f eo r e t k i l i f t y F hi ig G g III . — -Stays worn habitually by gentlemen General use o f Co rsets for boys o n the — — Co ntinent T he o ffi cers o f Gu stavus Ado lphu s T h e use of the Co rset for yo uths — a letter fro m a gentleman o n th e subject Of E vidence regarding the wearing o f — — Co rsets by gentlemen of th e pre sent day Remarks o n th e changes o f fashio n T h e ” — — term C rino line not new C rino line amo ng the So uth S ea I sl anders Remarks o f — Madame La Sante o n Crino line and slender waists Abstinence fro m fo o d as an — — assistance to th e C o rset Anecdo te fro m the Traditions of E dinburg b T h e custo m n o rse s dur n s ee its ro w n reva e nce in sc o o and r va e am es : o f weari g C t i g l p, g i g p l h ls p i t f ili — “ ” le tters rel ating to T h e belles o f the United States and t he ir illusion w aists — Medical evidence in favour o f moderately tight lacing L etters from ladies wh o have

- a n been subjected to tight l ci g .

OR some considerable period o f time we find stays much more w o f frequently spoken of than corsets in the ritings Eng lish authors, but their use continued to be as general and their form o f construction just as unyielding as ever, both at home and abroad. The costume XVI worn at the court of Louis , of which the following illustration will give an idea, depended mainly for its completeness on the form of the

- finish ed stays, over which the elaborately body of the dress was made to or r o f m fit without fold crease, fo ming a sort bodice, which in any instances was sewn o n to the figure o f the wearer after the Stays had m been laced to their extre e limit. The towering headdress and immensely wide and distended skirt gave to the figure an additional o f appearance tenuity, as we have seen when describing similar contri

o r 1806 . LADY FASHION ,

T H E R SE AN D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

’ w w. belo Surely, hen the idea struck him, he must have been gaz ing

on a living skeleton, uncovered with muscle. After reading his observa

- tions, I took the measure of a well formed little girl, seven years of age, who had never worn stays, and found the circumference of the bust just — below the shoulders one inch and a half larger than at the lower part of ” a w the w ist . The vie s of the author just quoted seem to be borne out by the researches of a French physician of high standing wh o has paid

Corsets cannot much attention to the subject . He positively asserts that ” be cbar ed wit/J causin dev iation tbe v ertebral column g g of . ’ - After the period referred to by Buchan s son, when tight lacing was

a rigorously revived, we see no diminution of it, and tow rds the end of ’ III s George . reign, gentlemen, as well as ladies , availed themselves of

o f - a the assistance the corset m ker. Advertising tailors of the time ” ” freely advertised their Codrington corsets and Petersham Stiffners “ ” “ for gentlemen of fashion, much as the Alexandra corset, or the ’ ” Empress s own stay, is brought to the notice of the public at the “ 1 60 present day . Soemmering informs us that as long ago as 7 , It was the fashion in Berlin, and also in Holland a few years before, to apply corsets to children, and many families might be named in which parental ” fondness selected the handsomest of several boys to put in corsets . In

France, Russia, Austria, and Germany, this practice has been decidedly on the increase since that time, and lads intended for the army are l treated much after the manner of young ladies, and are a most as tightly laced. It is related of Prince de Ligne and Prince Kaunitz that they

- were invariably incased in most expensively made satin corsets, the r former wearing black and the latter white . Dr. Doran, in w iting of ” ff - N the o icers of the far famed Lion of the orth, Gustavus Adolphus, “ ' ” - u fl rin says, They were the tightest laced exquisites of s e g humanity .

The worthy doctor, like many others who have written on the subject, ‘ inseparably associates the habitual wearing of corsets with extreme ‘ suflerin g ; but the gentlemen who, like the ladies, have been sub T H E R SE AN D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

ected o f m j to the full discipline the corset, not only e phatically deny that it has caused them any injury, and, beyond the inconvenience experienced on adopting any new article of attire, little uneasiness, but, on the

th e contrary, maintain that the sensations associated with confirmed practice of tight-lacing are so agreeable that those wh o are once addicted

E n lis to it rarely abandon the practice . The following letter to the g b ’ w omans M a az ine o f N 1 86 wh o g ovember, 7, from a gentleman was

u S ed cated in Vienna, will how this “' A A M — to M D , May I be permitted for once ask admission to your ’ ‘ z 1 Conversa ione, and to plead as excuse for my intrusion that am really anxious to indorse your fair correspondent’ s (Belle’ s) assertion that it is those who know nothing practically of the corset wh o are most vociferous in condemning it ? Strong- minded women who have never - d worn a pair of stays , and gentlemen blinded by hastily formed preju ice, alike anathematise an article of dress o f the good qualities of which they l a are utter y ignorant, and which consequently they cannot ppreciate. On a subject o f so much importance as regards comfort (to say nothing o f the question of elegance, scarcely less important on a point of feminine o f r costume) , no amount theory will eve weigh very heavily when opposed to practical experience. The proof of the pudding is a proverb to o true not to be acted on in

. to o f such a case To put the matter actual test, can any the opponents of the corset honestly state that they have given up stays after having fairly tried them, except in compliance with the persuasions or commands

- co nve of friends or medical advisers, who seek in the much abused corset a nient first cause for an ailment that baffles their skill ? The Young Lady Herself ’ (a former correspondent) does not complain of either illness or few pain, even after the first months ; while, on the other hand, Staylace, N ora, and Belle bring ample testimony , both of themselves and their school

w - fello s, as to the comfort and pleasure of tight lacing . To carry out my ’ first statement as to the truth of Belle s remark, those of the Opposite

T H E R S H E R E CO ET A N D T C INOLIN .

comfort and inconvenience is incurred by the purchasers o f ready-made corsets is doubtless true . The waist measure being right, the chest, al ff where undue constriction will natur ly produce evil e ects, is very to ff generally left chance . If, then, the wearer su ers, who is to blame but herself ?

The remark echoed by nearly all your correspondents, that ladies have the remedy in their o wn hands by having their Stays made to

- measure, is too self evident for me to wish to enlarge upon it ; but I do ff wish to assert and insist that, if a corset allows su icient room in the t chest, the waist may be laced as tightly as the wearer desires wi hout

and fear of evil consequences ; , further, that the ladies themselves who

- have given tight lacing a fair trial, and myself and schoolfellows converted against our will, are the only jury entitled to pronounce authoritatively ff on the subject, and that the comfortable support and enjoyment a orded by a well - laced corset quite overbalances the theoretical evils that are so confidently prophesied by outsiders . W A L ER T . Since it has become a custom to send lads from England to the Con tinent to for education, many of them adhere the use of the corset on their return, and of the use of this article of attire among the rising gene ration o f the gentlemen of this country there can be no doubt ; we are informed by one of the leading corset-makers in London that it is by

manufac means unusual to receive the orders of gentlemen, not for the

o f - a ture the belts so commonly used in horse exercise, but verit ble corsets, strongly boned, steeled, and made to lace behind in the usual

— - way not, as the corset maker assured us, from any feeling of vanity on the part of the wearers, who so arranged their dresses that no one would even suspect that they wore corsets beneath them, but simply because

- e . they had become accustomed to tight lacing, and w re fond of it So it

- will be seen that the fair sex are not the only corset wearers . 1 82 During 4, it will be seen by the accompanying illustration that FASHIONABLE D RESS IN 1824

L o r 1827. ADY FASHION , T H E R S E AN D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

u u fashion demanded the conto r of the figure should be f lly defined, and the absence of any approach to fullness about the skirt below the

waist led to the use of very tight stays, in order that there might be

. d some contrast in the outline of the figure This style of ress, with slight

. 1 82 modifications, remained in fashion for several years In 7, the dress,

as will be seen on reference to the annexed illustration, had changed but n little ; but three years, or thereabouts, worked a considerable cha ge, 1 8 0 S z and we see, in 3 , leeves of the most formidable si e, hats to match,

short skirts, and long slender waists the rage again . A few years later the skirts had assumed a much wider Spread ; the sleeves of puffed- out

pattern were discarded . The waist took its natural position, and was s di played to the best advantage by the expansion of drapery below it, a “ ” will be seen on reference to the annexed cut . The term crinoline

is by no means a new one, and long before the hooped petticoats with w o f fe w hich the fashions the last years have made us so familiar, the r horsehair cloth, so much used for distending the skirts of d esses, was w commonly kno n by that name . It is not our intention here to enter on a description of the almost endless forms which from time to time this ’ W t co nstr uc adjunct to ladies dress has assumed . he her the idea of its f tion was first borrowed from certain savage tribes it is di ficult to determine . That a very marked and unmistakable form of it existed amongst the natives of certain of the South Sea Islands at their discovery by the early i navigators, the curious cut, representing a native belle, w ll show, and ff there is no doubt that, although the dress of the savage is somewhat di e in r rent its arrangement f om that of the European lady of fashion, the object

h - 1 g t by the use of a wide spread base to the form 3 the same . Madame

r La Sante, in w iting on the subject, says Every one must allow that S i w the expanding kirts of a dress, spr nging out immediately belo the ai waist, materially assist by contrast in making the w st look small and

slender. It is, therefore, to be hoped that now that crinoline no longer ” assumes absurd dimensions, it will long continue to hold its ground . H E R S E A N D T H E R E T CO T C INOLIN .

The same author, in speaking of the prevailing taste for slender waists, thus writes W e have seen that for many hundred years a slender

‘ figure has been considered a most attractive female charm, and there is nothing to lead us to suppose that a taste which appears to be implanted in man ’ s very nature will ever cease to render the acquisition of a small waist an object of anxious solicitude with those who have the care of th e ” young . For several years this solicitude has been decidedly on the w increase, and many expedients hich were had recourse to in ancient da ys for reducing the waist to exceeding slenderness, are, we shall see in as we proceed, full operation . l A very sparing diet has , as we have a ready seen, from the days of

T erentiu s aid . , been one great to the operation of the corset There is a very quaint account to be found in the Traditions of

Edinbur b g bearing on this dieting system . An elderly lady of fashion , who appears to have lived in Scotland during the early part of the last of century, was engaged on the formation of the figures her daughters, stinted meals and tight corsets worn day and night being some o f the means made use o f ; but it is related that a certain cunning and evil minded cook, whose coarse mind only ran on the pleasure of the appetite, ’ used to creep stealthily in the dead of night to the chamber in which the young ladies slept, unlace their stays, and let them feed heartily on

- i oh ibited the strictly p dainties of the pantry ; grown rash by impunity, she one night ventured to attempt running the blockade with hot roast

a o f goose, but three f tal circumstances combined against the success the dangerous undertaking . In the first place, the savoury perfume arising from hot roast goose was penetrating to an alarming degree ; in the

o ld - W it second, the lady, as ill luck ould have , happened to be awake, f f . and, worse than all, had no snu , so smelt goose The scene which followed the capture o f the illicit cargo and the detection of the culprit cook can be much more easily imagined than described .

The custom of wearing the corset by night as well as by day, above

o r 1837. LADY FASHION ,

T H E R SE AN D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

. w I had contracted The busk, hich was nearly inflexible, was not front fastening, and the lace being secured in a hard knot behind and at the ff top, e ectually prevented any attempt on my part to unloose my stays . o f Though I have read lately this plan having been tried with advantage,

o f wh o I believe it is as yet an unusual one, and as the testimony one has undergone it without the least injury to health cannot fail to be of value in proving that the much less severe system usually adopted must h arm I be even less likely to do , am sure you will do me and your numerous readers the favour of inserting this letter in your most enter

z o f taining and valuable maga ine . I am delighted to see the friends the ’ ’ ‘ z W corset muster so strong at the Englishwoman s Conversa ione. hat is most required, however, are the personal experiences of the ladies

o n - themselves, and not mere treatises tight lacing by those who, like

v . your correspondent Brisbane, have ne er tried it

M I G N ON ET T E. Another correspondent to the same journal (signing herself Debu ” N 1 86 fo tante ) writes in the number for ovember, 7, as llows “ ’ ’ ‘ nus o ne Mignonette s case is not an u ual . She has just finished ‘ ’ her education at a West- End school where the system was strictly sh e a enforced . As entered as a pupil at the g e of thirteen and was very slender, she was fitted on her arrival with a corset, which could be drawn close without the extreme tightness found necessary in ’ Mignonette s case . They did not open in front, and were fastened by the under-governess in such a manner that any attempt to unlace them during the night would be immediately detected at the mo rnin

n t . i spec ion —After the first week or two she felt no discomfort or pain of any kind, though, as she was still growing, her stays became propor tio natel to a y tighter, but owing to her figure never being allowed enl rge during the nine or ten hours of sleep, as is usually the case, this was ” almost imperceptible . Madame La Sante also refers to the custom as being much more THE R S S E A R C INOLINE OF A OUTH ISLANDE .

H E R S E A D T H E R E T CO T N C INOLIN .

n sedentary occupations in close rooms, without attributi g the blame W - d to the corset . Dr. alshe, in his well known work on iseases of the lungs, distinctly asserts that corsets cannot be accused of causing W consumption . ith regard to spinal curvature, a disease which has been connected by some writers with the use of stays, an eminent

French physician, speaking of corsets, says They cannot be charged ’ w . ith causing deviations of the vertebral column Let us, then, hear no more nonsense about the terrible consequences of wearing corsets, at all events till the ladies return to the buckram and iron of our great grandmothers . Your fair readers may rest assured that what is said against stays at the present day is merely the lingering echo of prejudice, and is quite inapplicable now- a- days to the light and elegant production

corsetiere of the scientific . As a medical man (and not one of the old school) I feel perfectly justified in saying that ladies who are content with a moderate application of the corset may secure that most elegant ’ Of female charm, a slender waist, without fear injury to health . “ E U S M DIC .

A great number of ladies who, by the systematic use of the corset, have had their waists reduced to the fashionable standard, are to be i constantly met in soc ety. The great majority declare that they have ff no way su ered in health from the treatment they had been subjected to .

Vi de r ueen 1 8 1 86 the following letter f om the Q of July , 3 A A M — M D , As I have for a long time been a constant reader of the ’

Lad s . 0 urnal l to if y :7 , venture ask you you, or any of your valuable l w i correspondents, will kindly tell me if it is true that sma l a sts are again coming into fashion generally ? I am aware that they cannot be said to have gone out of fashion altogether, for one often sees very slender figures ; but I think during the last few years they have been less thought of than formerly. I have heard, however, from several sources,

L M o N a de. o w and by the public prints, that they are again to be I will I h O e fortunately possess a figure which , p , satisfy the demand of T H E R E T H E CO R SET A N D C INOLIN .

W - z fashion in this respect . hat is the smallest si ed waist that one can

? a- and I have Mine is sixteen and half inches, , have heard, is considered small . I do not believe what is said against the corset, though I admit d that if a girl is an invali , or has a very tender constitution, too sudden a W reduction of the waist may be injurious . ith a waist which is, I

v . belie e , considered small, I can truly say I have good health If all that was said against the corset were true, how is it so many ladies live to an advanced age ? A friend of mine has lately died at the age of eighty

r six, who has f equently told me anecdotes of how in her young days she was laced cruelly tight, and at the age of seventeen had a waist fifteen

- inches . Yet she was eighty six when she died . I know that it has been so long the habit of public journals to take their example from medical

i n i men (who, I contend, are not the best judges in the matter) runn ng m down the corset, and the very legiti ate, and, if properly employed, to harmless mode of giving a graceful slenderness the figure, that I can hardly expect that at present you will have courage to take the part of to ufe the ladies . But I beg you to be so kind as tell what you know of

a z the state of the f shion as regards the length and si e of the waist, and whether my waist would be considered small . Also what is the smallest o f si z ed waist known among ladies fashion . By doing this in an early o u number y will very much oblige, “ &c Yours, . ,

S A E CON T NC . The foregoing letter was followed on the 2 5 th of the same month by one from another correspondent to the same paper, fully bearing out the truth of the view therein contained, and at the same time showing the system adopted in many of the French finishing schools “ A A M - - M D , As a constant reader of your highly interesting and l valuab e paper, I have ventured to reply to a letter under the above heading from your correspondent Constance, contained in your last ’

. r week s impression In reply to her fi st question, there is little doubt, I

H R E T H E CO R S ET AN D T E C INOLIN .

- acco m and by no means an elaborate toilet, when the under governess,

anied i p by a br sk, trim little woman , the bearer of a long cardboard

o f S case, made their appearance ; corsets various patterns , as well as ilk

m - r laces of ost portentous length, were at once produced, and a ve y short time was allowed to elapse before my experiences in the art and mystery

- n of tight laci g may be fairly said to have commenced . My dresses were all removed, in order that the waists should be taken in and the make altered ; a frock was borrowed for me for the day, and from that hour I was subjected to the strict and rigid system of lacing in force through the whole establishment, no relaxation of its discipline being allowed n during the day on any pretence whatever . For the period ( early three years) I remained as a pupil, I may say that my health was excellent, as ‘ ’ was that of the great majority of my young companions in bondage, and on taking my departure I had grown from a clumsy girl to a very n smart you g lady, and my waist was exactly seven Inches less than on the day of my arrival . From Paris I proceeded at once to join my m relatives in the island of Mauritius, and on y arrival in the isle sacred ‘ to the memories of Paul and Virginia, I found the reign of Queen ’ Corset most arbitrary and absolute, but without in any way that I could discover interfering with either the health or vivacity of her exceedingly attractive and pretty subjects . Before concluding, and whilst on the ‘ ’ - subject, a few words on the front fastening corset, now so generally worn, may not come amiss . After a thorough trial I have finally abandoned its use, as being imperfect and faulty in every way, excepting the very doubtful advantage o f being a little more quickly put on and

' o fl . Split up and open at the front as they are, and only fastening here and there, the whole of the compactness and stability so highly important in this part, of all others, of a corset is all but lost, whilst the ordinary steel busk secures these conditions, to the wearing out of the

w l - material of hich the corset is composed. The ong double looped round lace used is, I consider, by no means either as neat, secure, or T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

durable as a flat plaited silk lace of good quality . Trusting these

remarks and replies may prove such as required by Constance, I beg to

subscribe myself, A F NNY. Another lady writing to the Queen on the same subject in the month

of August has a waist under sixteen inches in circumference, as will be

seen by the annexed letter, and yet she declares her health to be

EA R A A M — I h D M D , have read wit interest the letters of Constance

and Fanny on the subject of slender waists . It is so much the fashion among medical men to cry down tight - lacing that advocates are very

daring who venture to uphold the practice . It has ever been in vogue

among our sex, and will, I maintain, always continue so long as elegant

figures are admired, for the wearing of corsets produces a grace and w slenderness hich nature never gives, and if the corset is discontinued or relaxed, the figure at once becomes stout and loose . The dress fits

- better over a close laced corset, and the fullness of the skirts, and ease of its folds, are greatly enhanced by the slenderness of the waist . My own

. Wh waist is under sixteen inches I have always enjoyed good health . y,

- then, if the practice of tight lacing is not prejudicial to the constitution of all its votaries, should we be debarred from the means of improving our appearance and attaining an elegant and graceful figure ? I qu ite

- agree with Fanny respecting the front fastening corset . I consider it objectionable . The figure can never be so neat or slender as in an

- ordinary well laced corset . May I inquire what has become of your correspondent Mary Blackb raid ? Her partialities for gloves and wigs brought upon her severe remarks from your numerous correspondents . th e I agree with her in glove question, and always wear them as much as I find possible in the house . they keep the hands cooler, and in my a - a Opinion there is no such finish to the appear nce as a well gloved h nd . W r here I am now staying the ladies inva iably wear them, and I have

T H E R S E AN D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

- f S injuring her figure . It is to this over tiring o the muscles that all pinal curvature is attributable, and not to the stays, which, if properly employed, would act as a sure preventative . Again, let me ask any one of the opposite sex who, at any rate at the present day, do not wear ’ ‘ flu sh in s stays, whether they have never experienced palpitation or g , ? W to headaches, and red noses hat right has any one make these ? special attendants on small- waisted ladies There is no more danger of W incurring these evils than by a gentleman wearing a hat . ell may the ‘ ’ old lady have forgotten these little items in her anecdotes . The comparison between the human frame and a watch is correct in some respects, but it is particularly unhappy in relation to the present subject .

The works of a watch are hard and unyielding, and not being possessed o f i life and power of growing, cannot adapt themselves to the r outer case . If you squeez e in the case the works will be broken and put out o f order ; far different is it with the supple and growing frame of a young girl . If the various organs are prevented from taking a certain form or direction, they will accommodate themselves to any other with perfect

N r . . o ease othing is broken interfered with in its action I will, of

- course, allow that if a fully grown woman were to attempt to reduce her waist suddenly, respiration and digestion would be stopped ; but it is rarely, if ever, that a lady arrives at maturity before she has imbibed sufficient notions of elegance and propriety to induce her to conform to this becoming fashion to some extent . Happy indeed those who are blessed with mothers who are wise enough to educate their daughters’

figures with an eye to their future comfort . The constant discomfort felt by those whose clumsy waists and exuberant forms are a perpetual bugbear to their happiness and advancement should warn mothers of the necessity of looking to the future, and by directing their figures success ftill n y while you g, avoid the unsuccessful attempts to force them at an advanced age . One word more on the question . Is a small waist ? admired by the gentlemen Mr. Buckland, it seems , has become so H E R S E A N D T H E R E T CO T C INOLIN .

’ - u imbued with Mr . Combe s ideas against tight lacing, that he looks pon

i a slender wa st with feelings evidently far from admiration . But is this any reason or authority for concluding that every gentleman of taste is ? of a like opinion On the contrary, I think it goes far to prove that it

3 other than the younger class of gentlemen (for whom, of course, the w ladies lay their attractions) who run do n the corset . Many times in fashionable assemblies have I heard gentlemen criticising the young ladies in such terms as these What a clumsy figure Miss is " it ’ ‘ W completely Spoils her. hat a pity Miss has not a neater ’ no t figure " and so on, and I believe there is one young man in a thousand who does not admire a graceful slenderness of the waist . What young man cares to dance with girls who resemble casks in form ? I have invariably noticed that the girls with the smallest waists are the

- queens of the ball room . I have not space to enter into the discussion as to whether the artifi cial waist is more beautiful than that of th é Venus

o wn de Medici ; on such matters every one forms their opinions . The waist of the Venus is beautiful for the Venus, but would cease to be so if clothed . I maintain that the comparison is not a good one, as the circumstances are not equal . In other respects, let the ladies, then, not be led to make themselves ungraceful and unattractive by listening to theories which are contradicted by practice, promulgated by persons ignorant, as far as their personal experience goes, of the operation and ff e ect of corsets, and taken up by ladies and gentlemen, not of the youngest, who, like your Country Subscriber, are past the age when the pleasantest excitements of life form topics of interest . Is it not natural that a young lady should be anxious to present a sylph- like form instead of appearing matronly ? There are some to whom the words tight lacing’ suggest immediately what they are pleased to term ’ ’ &c. torture, misery, , but who have never taken the trouble to inquire a into the subject, preferring the far easier way of t king for granted that

W - e all that has been said against it is true . hen such would b bene T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

a factors to the fair sex he r of a sudden death, or see a lady faint at a ’ o r - 3 ball . a theatre, they immediately raise the cry of Tight lacing An instance occurred not long ago in which, in a public journal, the sudden death of a young lady was ascribed to this cause, but in a few days afterwards was expressly contradicted in a paragraph of the same paper. d m Do we never hear of men ying suddenly, or fainting away fro over ? heat That small waists are the fashion admits of no doubt , for I have myself applied to several fashionable corset - makers in London and the principal fashionable resorts to ascertain whether it be the case . I gather from their information that small waists are most unmistakably the fashion ; that there are more corsets made to order under eighteen inches than over that measurement ; that the smallest si z e is usu ally fi fteen inches, though few possess so elegantly small a waist, the maj ority being about seventeen o r eighteen inches ; that the ladies are now beginning to see that the front- fastening busk is not so good as the old ’ fashioned kind, and have their daughters corsets well boned . Many

- o f also prefer shoulder straps for the stays growing girls , which keep the chest expanded, and prevent their leaning too much on the busk . If these are not too tight they are very advantageous to the figure, and the upper part of the corset should just fit, but not be tight . A corset

- made on these principles will cause no injury to health, unless the girl is naturally of a consumptive constitution, in which case no one would think of lacing at all tightly .

I must apologise for this long letter, but I felt bound to take advantage of the opportunity you afford to discuss this really important question . “ I remain, madam, yours, M R ER AD I .

R E T H E CO R SET A N D T H E C INOLIN .

- health and beauty greatly depend . All who visited the picture gallery

- in the Exhibition of 1 86 2. must have seen an exquisitely painted portrait S of the beautiful Empress of Austria, and though it did not how the waist in the most favourable position , some idea may be formed of its elegant slenderness and easy grace . Many were the remarks made upon it by all classes of critics while I seated myself opposite the picture for a few minutes . I should like any one who maintains that small waists are not generally admired to have taken up the position which I did for half an- hour, and I am sure she would soon find her Opinion unsupported by facts ; your correspondents, however, are at fault in supposing that six e teen inches is the smallest waist that the world has almost ver known .

Collection C uriosities Lady Babbage, in her of , tells us that in a portrait of

Lady Morton, in the possession of Lord Dillon, the waist cannot exceed a ten or twelve inches in circumference, and at the l rgest part imme diatel - y beneath the armpits not more than twenty four, and the immense length of the figure seems to give it the appeargnce of even greater slenderness . Catherine de Medici considered the standard of perfection to be thirteen inches . It is scarcely to be supposed that any lady of the present day possesses such an absurdly small waist as thirteen inches, but I am certain that not a few could be found whose waistband does not

- exceed fifteen inches and three quarters or sixteen inches . Much depends o n the height and width of the shoulders ; narrow shoulders wo generally admit of a small waist, and many tall men are naturally so S a slender as to be able to how a small w ist with very little lacing . It is

Y co rre s o n needless to remark how much depends on the corset . our p

. T urno u r dent, A H . , says that the long corsets, if well pulled in at the waist, compress one cruelly all the way up, and cause the shoulders to

stiflf N o w deport themselves awkwardly and y. , no corset will be able to do this if constructed as it should be . I believe the great fault to be that when the corset is laced on it is very generally open an i nch or so from top to bottom . The consequence of this is , that when the wearer E T H E CO R S ET AN D T H E C R INOLIN .

is sitting down, and the pressure on the waist the greatest, the tendency to pull the less tightly drawn lace at the top of the corset tighter ; on changing the posture this does not right itself, and consequently an unnecessary and injurious compression round the chest is experienced . Now , if the corset , when fitted, were so made that it should meet all the

abov e below way, or at any rate and the waist, when laced on, this evil would be entirely avoided, and absence of compression round the upper part of the chest would give an increased appearance of slenderness to the waist and allow the lungs as much play as the waistbands . There seems to be an idea that when the corset is made to meet it gives a ff sti ness to the figure . In the days of buckram this might be the case, but no such effect need be feared from the light and flexible stays of the f present day, and the ault which frequently leads to the fear of wearing corsets which do not meet is, that the formation of the waist is not begun early enough . The consequence of this is, that the waist has to

com ressed be p into a slender shape after it has been allowed to swell , and the stays are therefore made so as to allow of being laced tighter and

N m er aded . o w a su tighter I , p that much inconvenience is caused by this practice, which might be entirely avoided by the following simple plan, which I have myself tried with my own daughters, and have found to answer admirably. At the age of seven I had them fitted with stays without much bone and a flexible busk, and these were made to meet from top to bottom when laced, and so as not to exercise the least pres

sli bt sure round the chest and beneath the waist, and only a very g S o ff pressure at the waist, just enough to how the figure and give it a

- . a roundness To prevent the stays from slipping, easy shoulder str ps were a added . In front, extending from the top more than h lf way to the

- waist, were two sets of lace holes, by which the stays could be enlarged round the upper part . As my daughters grew, these permitted of my w S al ays preventing any undue pressure, but I always laced the tays so as W to meet behind. hen new ones were required they were made exactly T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

z the same si e at the waist, but as large round the upper part as the gradual enlargement had made the former pair. They were also of

- course made a little longer, and the position of the shoulder straps slightly altered ; by these means their figures were directed instead of forced into a slender shape ; no inconvenience was felt, and my dau h ters I g , am happy to say, are straight, and enjoy perfect health, while the waist of the eldest is eighteen inches, and that of the youngest seventeen . I am convinced that my plan is the most reasonable one that ’ ti bt- lacin no can be adopted . By this means g g will be abolished, for

- tight lacing or compression is required, and the child, being accustomed

inco n to the stays from an early age, does not experience any of the veniences which are sometimes felt by those who do not adopt them till twelve or fourteen . F R M ER R R ES E A O CO POND NT (Edinburgh) . The advisability o f training instead of forcing the figure into slenderness is now becoming almost universally admitted by those who have paid any attention to the subject ; yet it appearS from the following ’ En lisbwomans Domestic M a az ine letters, which appeared in the g g of 1 868 January and February, , that the corset, even when employed at

o f z a comparatively late period life, is capable of reducing the si e of the a waist in an extraordinary manner, without c using the serious con sequences which it has so long been the custom to associate with the

- practice of tight lacing. A Tight- Lacer expresses herself to the following effect Most o f your correspondents advocate the early use of the corset as the No best means to secure a slender waist . doubt this is the best and m ost easy mode, but still I think there are many young ladies who have never worn tight stays who might have small waists even now if

they would only give themselves the trouble . I did not commence to

married ‘ no r lace tightly until I was , should I have done so then had not my husband been so particularly fond of a small waist ; but I was

T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

z fashionable si e and yet preserve their health . Very few of my fellow ff pupils appeared to su er, except the pain caused by the extreme tight ness of the stays . In one case where the girl was stout and largely built, two strong maids were obliged to use their utmost force to make

z — viz her waist the si e ordered by the lady principal . , seventeen inches f and though she ainted twice while the stays were being made to meet, she wore them without seeming injury to her health, and before she left m school she had a waist easuring only fourteen inches, yet she never ff ’ su ered a day s illness . Generally all the blame is laid by parents on the principal of the school, but it is often a subject of the greatest rivalry among the girls to see which can get the smallest waist, and often while the servant was drawing in the waist of my friend to the utmost of her strength, the young lady, though being tightened till she had hardly breath to speak, would urge the maid to pull the stays yet closer, le t n and tell her not to the lace slip in the least . I thi k this is a subject ffi which is not su ciently understood . Though I have always heard

- ff ff tight lacing condemned, I have never su ered any ill e ects myself, and, as a rule, our school was singularly free from illness . By publishing ’ this side of the question in the Eng lisbwomans Domestic M ag az ine you ” will greatly oblige .

Cases like the foregoing are most important and remarkable, as they Show most indisputably that loss of health is not so inseparably associated with even the most unflinching application of the corset as the world has l been led to suppose. It rather appears that a though a very considerable amount of inconvenience and uneasiness is experienced by those who are unaccustomed to the reducing and restraining influences of the corset, w hen adopted at rather a late period of growth, they not only in S t ff o wn a hort ime cease to su er, but of their free will continue the

r r practice and become partial to it . Thus w ites an Edinbu gh lady, who ’ En lisbw omans Domestic M a az ine incloses her card, to the g g of March, 1 867 : T H E R SE A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

I have been abroad for the last four years, during which I left my

- daughter at a large and fashionable boarding school near London . I sent for her home directly I arrived, and, having had no bad accounts of ab sence I her health during my , expected to see a fresh rosy girl of W seventeen come bounding to welcome me . hat, then, was my surprise to see a tall, pale young lady glide slowly in with measured gait and languidly embrace me ; when she had removed her mantle I understood at once what had been mainly instrumental in metamorphosing my merry romping girl to a pale fashionable belle . Her waist had, during the four years she had been at school, been reduced to such absurdly small ‘ dimensions that I could easily have clasped it with my two hands . How ’ ‘ u co ld you be so foolish, I exclaimed, as to sacrifice your health for the ? ’ ‘ ’ m ’ sake of a fashionable figure Please don t blame me, amma, she ‘ replied, I assure you I would not have voluntarily submitted to the ff ’ torture I have su ered for all the admiration in the world . She then told me how the most merciless system of tight-l the rule of

w- the establishment, and how she and her forty or pupils had been daily imprisoned in vices of whalebone drawn tight by the muscular

- n arms of sturdy waiting maids, till the fashio able standard of tenuity

. a was attained The torture at first was, she declared, often intoler ble ; but all entreaties were vain, as no relaxation of the cruel laces was ‘ allowed during the day under any pretext except decided illness . But ‘ A why did you not complain to me at first I inquired . S soon as ’ I found to what a system of torture I was condemned, she replied, ‘ ff I wrote a long letter to you describing my su erings, and praying you

th e ~ lad to take me away . But y principal made it a rule to revise all

: letters sent by, or received by, the pupils, and when she saw mine she not only refused to let it pass, but punished me severely for rebelling ’ ‘ against the discipline of the school . At least you will now obtain ff ’ ‘ relief from your su erings, I exclaimed, for you shall not go back ’ - to that school any more . On attempting to discontinue the tight lacing,

T H E R SE AN D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN . manner in which she puts the question almost inclines me to believe that

- she is, as a corset maker, financially interested in the general adoption of

- ff so the corset screw . Her account of the whole a air seems so artificial, made up for a purpose, so to speak, that I, for one, am inclined to totally ‘ ’ discredit it . A waist easily clasped with two hands . Ye powers " what perfection " how delightful " I declare that ever since I read that I have worn a pair of stays that I had rejected for being too small for me, ’ as they did not quite meet behind (and I can t bear a pair that I cannot closely lace) , and have submitted to an extra amount of muscular exertion from my maid in order to approach, if ever so distantly, the d h delightful imensions of two handsful . Then, again, how c armingly she l insinuates that if we will only persevere, on y submit to a short a probationary period of torture, the h ted compression (but desired l attenuation) wi l have become a second nature to us , that not only l wi l it not inconvenience us, but possibly we shall be obliged, for ’ ak . a comfort s s e itself, to continue the practice q, mad m, as a part r r of the present whole of modern d ess, eve y one must admit that a slender waist is a great acquisition, and from my own experience and the experience of several young lady friends similarly addicted to guide

so - - me, I beg to pronounce the called evils of tight lacing to be a mere bugbear and so much cant . Every woman has the remedy in her o wn If hands . she feels the practice to be an injury to her, she can but discontinue it at any time . To me the sensation of being tightly

- -fittin laced in a pair of elegant, well made, tightly g corsets is superb, and

I have never felt any evil to arise therefrom . I rejoice in quite a

h - — in collection of t ese much abused Objects silk, satin, and coutil of every — style and colour and never feel prouder or happier, so far as matters of the toilette are concerned, than when I survey in myself the fascinating i undulations of outl ne . A A E ST YL C . Th en follows a letter rather calculated to cast doubt on the subject T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

ff d m of the su erings of the young lady whose case has been describe , fro a lady who, although possessing a small waist, knows nothing of them . Thus she writes “ Please let me join in the all- absorbing discussion you have intro ’ duced z at the Englishwoman s monthly Conversa ione, and let me first thank Staylace for her capital letter. I quite agree with her in suspecting the story of the young lady at the boarding- school to be n W overdraw a little . ould the young lady herself oblige us with a ‘ ’ w description of her tortures, as I and several of my friends who follo the present fashion of small waists are curious to know something of e ff them, having n ver experienced these terrible su erings, though my ? waistband measures only eighteen inches The truth is, there are always

- a number of fussy middle aged people who (with the best intentions, no doubt) are always abusing some article of female dress . The best of it is, these benevolent individuals are usually of that sex whose costume precludes them from mak ing a personal trial of the articles they

No n condemn . w it is the crinoline which draws forth their indig ant outcries, now the corset, and now the chignon . They know not from their own experience how the crinoline relieves us from the weight of

- i many under skirts, and prevents them from clinging to us while walk ng,

- and they have never felt the comfortable support of a well made corset . r Yet they decry the use of the fi st as unaccountable, and of the second as suicidal . Let me tell them, however, that the ladies themselves judge m fro practice and not from theory, and if the opponents of the corset require proof of this, let me remind them that compression of the waist has been more or less universal throughout the civilised world for three Of - l . or four centuries, in spite of reams of paper and gal ons printing ink o wn I may add that, for my part, I have always laced tightly, and have i always enjoyed good health . Allow me to recommend lad es to have ff their corsets made to measure, and if they do not feel they su er any u inconvenience, they may certainly take the example of yo r clever

T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

n fashion of lo ger waists without any inconvenience . I trust you will a f llow us schoolmistresses air play in this important matter, and insert ” z this, or part of it, in your maga ine . “ — EA R M R S G SHW M A — I — I Mignon says D . EN LI O N, beg pray that you will not close your delightful Conversaz ione to the tight- lacing

: o ne question it is an absorbing ; hundreds, thousands of your young lady readers are deeply interested in this matter, and the subscribers to

z your excellent maga ine are increasing daily, to my own knowledge, by i reason of th s interesting controversy pray wait a little, and you will how the tight - lacers and their gentlemen admirers will rally round the to banner that has been unfurled . There is an attempt being made ’ W h introduce the hideous fashion of the Empire, as it is called . y w e should , who have been disciplined at home and at school, and laced tighter and tighter month after month, until our waists have become ’ small by degrees and beautifully less, be expected to hide our figures (which we know are admired) under such atrocious drapery ? My stay and dress maker both tell me that it is only the ill- formed and waistless ones that have taken to the fashion ; such, of course, are well pleased, and will have no objection to have their waistbands as high as their arm pits . Angular and rigid figures have always pretended to sneer at tight lacers, but any one of them would give half, nay, their whole fortune to a att in to such small dimensions as some of your correspondents describe . n I shall keep my waist where ature has placed it, and where art has improved it, for my own comfort, and because a certain friend has said that he never could survive if it were any larger or shorter: My waist

a- remains just as it was a year and half ago, when I left school, where in the course of three years it was by imperceptible degrees laced from twenty to fifteen inches, not only without injury to health but with great ” to satisfaction and comfort myself. It has been much the fashion amongst those wh o have written in condemnation of the use of the corset to contrast the fig ure of the

T H E R SE A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

- addicted to the practice of tight lacing, and as for many years I have w been in the habit of lacing extremely tight, I trust that you will allo

me, by inserting this or part of it, to make known that I have never ff su ered any pain or illness from it . In the days when I was a school ff fl girl , stays were worn much sti er and higher than the imsy things now

- used, and were, besides, provided with shoulder straps, so that to be very tightly incased in them was a much more serious affair than at the " present day . But, nevertheless, I remember our governess would insist

on the greatest possible amount of constriction being used, and always

twice a day our stays were tightened still more. A great amount of a wa ff exercise was inculc ted, which perhaps did a y with any ill e ects this .

- extreme tight lacing might have occasioned, but while at school I smce i imbibed a liking for the practice, and have ever nsisted on my

maid lacing me as tightly as she possibly can . I quite agree with Stay lace in saying that to be tightly laced in a pair of tight -fitting stays is a

most superb sensation . My two daughters, aged respectively sixteen l C and eighteen, are brought up in the same way, and wou d not onsider

themselves properly dressed unless their stays were drawn together .

- They can bear me out in my favourable Opinion of tight lacing, and their l good health speaks volumes in its praise . I hope, madam, you wi l ” - kindly insert this letter in your valuable and largely circulated magaz ine . Many Opponents to the use of the corset have strongly urged the i somewhat weak argument, that ladies with slender wa sts are not gene rally admired by the gentlemen . That question has been ably dealt f i with in one or two of the preceding letters rom lad es, and it is but fair

F airh olt remar s in ea n o f th e d sc ne bserved in sc o o s dur n th e re n o f k , Sp ki g i ipli O h l i g ig

e o r e was th e as o n to e du ca e r s in s ffness o f manne r at all ub c G g III . It f hi t gi l ti p li

sc o o s and ar cu ar to cu va e a a l o f the s o ulders and an u r set o f th e bus . h l , p ti l ly lti t f l h p ight t T h e top o f th e steel stay busk h ad a l o ng sto cking- nee dle attached to it to prevent girls

r m s o i n e r s a e b s o o n r is a e ear f o p il g th i h p y t pi g to o mu ch o ver the ir nee dlewo k. Th I h v h d ” ro m a ad s nce dead wh o h ad o en e ese en e in s and amened eir disuse f l y i ft f lt th g tl h t l t th . T E R E N T H E R E H CO S T A D C INOLIN . to them that the Opinions of both the young and old of the male sex ’ (candidly communicated to the columns of the E ng lisbw omans Domestic M ag az ine) should be added to the weight of evidence in favour of

- almost universal admiration for a slender and well rounded waist . Thus 1 86 writes a young baronet in the number for October, 7 “ As you have given your readers the benefit of Another Corre ’ Spo ndent s excellent letter will you kindly allow another member of the sterner sex to give his opinion on the subject of small waists ? Those who have endeavoured to abolish this most becoming fashion have not d hesitate to declare that gentlemen do not care for a slender figure, but that, on the contrary, their only feeling on beholding a waist of eight No w inches is one of pity and contempt . so far from this being the a case, there is not one gentleman in a thous nd who is not charmed with ma the sight . Elderly gentlemen, no doubt, y be found who look upon such things as ‘ vanity and vexation of Spirit but is it for these that young ladies usually cultivate their charms ? e suggestion I should be glad to make if you will permit me, a that all those S ladies who possess that most elegant attraction, a lender waist, should not hide it so completely by shawls or loose paletots when on the

W - promenade or in the street . hen by good luck I chance to meet taste I S a lady who has the good , may say the kindness, to how her

-fittin tapering waist by wearing a close g paletot , I not unfrequently turn r to admi e, and so far from thinking of the means used to Obtain the ” result, I am held spellbound by the beauty of the figure . Tha t elderly gentlemen are by no means as indifferent to ’ the attractions of elegant slenderness as our young correspondent supposes, w will be best sho n by a letter from a family man on the subject, N 1 86 communicated to the above journal, ovember, 7 . He says “ I have read with much interest the correspondence on the above ’ z subject in the Englishwoman s Conversa ione for several months past, having accidentally met with one of the numbers of your magaz ine in a

THE FAS HIO N OF 1865 .

T H E R SE A D T H E R E CO T N C INOLIN .

ff erdu Still the waist is by no means su ered to remain p , but, as in 1 82 7, has to be laced with very considerable tightness to compensate

r . h the eye fo its loss of taperness and leng t . The annexed illustration 1 86 represents a lady of fashion of 7 , and it would be a perfect work of supererogation to ask our readers how a lady so dressed would “ ” look unlaced and unconfined . The ladies themselves are by far the

En /isla best judges of the matter, and the following letter from the g ’ w omans Domestic M ag az ine will show that the corset has to play an

- important part in the now existing style of dress . Thus writes a lady who signs herself Edina “ Allow me to occupy a small portion of your valuable space with

all the subject of stays . I quite agree with A Young Baronet that those ladies who possess that most elegant attraction, a slender waist, should not hide it so completely by shawls whenever they promenade. Excuse ff my o ering a few remarks to facilitate that desirable object, a handsome

figure . Ladies, when dressing for the afternoon walk or ride, or the evening display, when putting on their stays at first , should not lace them quite tight ; in about a quarter of an hour they might agai n

-an- tighten them, and in the course of half hour or so lace them to the requisite tightness . They may fancy in this way there is no sudden a compression of the waist, and the figure gets more e sily accustomed to

- tight lacing . Occasionally, In France, ladies who are very particular about their figures have their corsets made in three pieces, laced down the sides as well as behind, and cut away over the hips ; the holes for the laces are very numerous and close together . This form of corset ff o ers great facilities for the most perfect adjustment to the figure, as

- c in well as power of tight lacing when required, and perfe t ease walking or dancing. I may add that, in order to insure a good fit and to keep ' d it properly in its place, the busk in front, and the whalebones behin , are made somewhat longer than the present fashion . Perhaps the lady e - in your September number, who signs h rself An Inveterate Tight Lacer, T U E FASHION o r 1867

H T H E CO R S ET A N D T E C R INOLIN E.

l w form of the waist should spring, and by keeping this ru e in vie it appears the statement made by so many ladies (that provided ample Space is allowed for the chest the waist may be laced to an extreme of smallness without injury) has much truth to support it . The con trib u to rs to works of popular instruction even in our own day are very

and lavish in their denunciations of the practice of weamring corsets , , following in the track of the ancient writers on the sa e subject, muster such a deadly and tremendously formidable array of ailments, failings, and diseases as inseparably associated with the wearing of that particular t article of at ire, that the very persons for whom these terrors are o wn d invoked, seeing from their daily experience how over rawn they S are and how little knowledge their authors how about the subject,

W e laugh the whole matter to scorn and follow the fashion . have no w

- before us a very talented and well conducted journal, in which there are some sweeping blows at the use of both corsets and high - heeled boots or w shoes, and, as an instance of the frightfully severe ay in which the ladies 1 8 2 of the time ( 4 ) laced themselves, the writer assures us that he had ’ “ actually seen a young lady s waistbelt which measured exactly tw enty ” tw o cbest inches, showing that the to which it was applied had been reduced to a diameter (allowing for clothes) of little more than seven ” o ne inches . The chest is thus shown as being about inch less than the No w 1 8 2 m waist . , in 4 it ust have been a very eccentric lady indeed

cbest w - - who formed her waist round her , and as to the t enty two inch waistband, we cannot help thinking that the majority of our readers would seek one of considerably smaller si z e as an indication of the

- practice of tight lacing in the owner. And now on the score of high Pickw ick heeled boots and slippers, we are, like the immortal boy in , ” going to make your flesh creep . In writing of these terrible engines of destruction our mentor says From the uneasiness and constraint experienced in the feet sympathetic affections of a dangerous kind often

ae . assail the stomach and chest, as h morrhage, apoplexy, and consumption T H E R S E E CO T A N D T H C R INOLIN E.

Lo w- ff heeled shoes, with su icient room for the toes, would completely ” prevent all such consequences . Ho w the shareholders of life ass urance companies must quake in their shoes as the smart and becoming footgear of the period meets their distracted Vision at every turn " and what between the fatal high heels and waists of deadly taperness, it is a wonder that female existence can continue, and that all the policies do not fall due in less than a week, all the undertakers sink into hopeless idiocy in a day from an over t h e whelming press of business , and all gentlemen engage in sanguinary “ ” last w oman encounter for the possession of the , who has survived the common fate by reason of her barefooted habits and of her early abandonment of stays .

W e - do not find, as a matter of fact, that the Registrar General has his duties materially increased, or that the bills of female mortality are by any means alarming, although on a moderate calculation there are siderab l e y ov r twelve million corsets in the United Kingdom alone, laced with as many laces round as many waists every day in the week, with, in many instances, a little extra tension for Sundays . W e learn from the columns of Once a Week that the total value of stays 1 o o o made for British consumption annually, cannot be less than " , o o, o are sterling, to produce which about yards of material w required . The stay trade of London employs more than in to n and country, whilst the provincial firms employ about more ; of these, about reside in London, and there is about one male to every

-fi e twenty v women . Returns show that we receive every year from France

- u and Germany about corsets . One corset man facturer in the

Stutt ard neighbourhood of g has, we are informed, over persons in

r a constant employment, and tu ns out nnually about finished

. C o . corsets Messrs . Thomson and , the manufacturers of the glove fittin m g corset, turn out incredible numbers from their im ense manu w l factories in England, America, and on the continent . It i l be T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN . readily conceived that the colonial demand and consumption is pro l po rtio nate y great . The quantity of steel annually made use of for

- n the manufacture of stay busks and crinolines is perfectly e ormous .

Of the importance of the whale fishery, and the great value of whale it S bone, will be needless to peak here, further than to inform our readers that more than half the whalebone which finds its way into

- and the market is consumed by the corset makers . Silk, cotton, wool, in very large quantities, are either spun up into laces or used

N o in the sewing or manufacture of the corset itself. inconsiderable O x quantity of timber is made use of for working up into busks .

- and horn, ebonite, gutta percha, hardened brass are all occasionally

- used for the same purpose, whilst the brass eyelet holes, of which we

b - - b o u t shall have to say more y and y, are turned in such vast and incalculable quantities, that any attempt at computing their number would be useless . It will be seen by these statistics and remarks that, unlike certain other articles of raiment which have reigned in popular esteem for a time, and then passed away, the corset has not only become an w established institution throughout the hole civilised world, but is of

an - immense commercial importance, d in rapidly increasing demand and esteem . W e shall now have to remark on some of the most noteworthy forms of the corset worn at the present day, contrasting them with

- cov ers those of the olden time . The steel corset we have already figured and described . On these contrivances being found heavy and too u n bending in their construction, a form of corset was, as we have before n said, co trived, which needed no cover to preserve its perfect smoothness of surface and rigidity of form ; the front was therefore enriched with n gold and silver tissue, and or amented with embroidery, performing the r pa t of both corset and stomacher, whilst the back was made of a heavier material , because the dress of the period often concealed it . The annexed illustrations are carefully sketched from a very excellent

R RM I R ST M R . CO SET, FO ING BOTI CO SET AND O ACHE (BACK)

T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

CHAPTER X.

’ - — - — R emarks o n fro nt fastening stays Tho mso n s gl o ve fitting C o rsets Pl an fo r adding ’ - — — stability to th e fro nt fastening C o rse t D e la G arde s F re nch C o rse t System o f self-measurement—T h e Redre sseu r C o rse t o f V ienna and its influe nce o n th e figures — o f young perso ns Remarks o n th e fli msy mate rial s u sed in th e manu facture o f — — ” — C o rse ts Hints as to pro per materials T h e Mine t B ack C o rset described E lastic — C o rse ts co nde mne d T h e narro w bands u sed as substitu tes fo r C o rsets injurio u s to th e — fig ure Remarks o n th e pro per applicatio n o f th e C o rse t with th e v iew to the — ’ — pro duction o f a gracefu l fig ure Tho mso ns Z ephyrina Crino line C o stume o f th e — — pre sent seaso n T h e cl aims o f Nature and A rt co nsidered T h e bell e o f D amara

L and.

T would be difficult to find a much more marked contrast to the style of bodice referred to in our last chapter than is to be found in

r - ordinary cheap f ont fastening corset commonly sold drapers .

MM S F CO ON CHEAP TAY, ASTENED . accompanying illustrations accurately represent those have written on the subject have much reason on their side when they T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN . insist that it neither aids in the formation of a good figure nor helps to m aintain the proportions of one when formed . Corsets such as these

r have neither beauty of contour nor compactness of const uction . The two narrow busks through which the holes are drilled for the reception of the studs or catcbes are too often formed of steel so lo w in quality that fracture at these weak points is a common occurrence, when some

MM S . CO ON CHEAP TAY , OPEN danger of from the broken ends is to be apprehended . also be found that when these bars or plates are deficient in width insufficient in stiffness the corset will no longer support the figure, or form a foundation for the dress to be neatly adjusted over. On the introduction of the front- fastening system it was at once seen that much saving of time and trouble was gained by the great facility with wh ich o ff b u t corsets constructed according to it could be put on and , the objections before referred to were soon manifest, and the ingenuity of inventors was called into action to remedy and overcome them, and it T H E R SE A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

was during this transitionstage in the history of the corset that the front fastening principle met with much condemnation at the hands of those who made the formation of the figure a study . From Thomson and “ N v tt C o . ew lo e f in , of York, we have received a pattern of their g y g ” corset o f , the subject the accompanying illustration, in the formation of h Old w ich the evils have been most successfully dealt with . The steels are o f the highest class of quality and of the requisite degree of

GLOVE - FITTING CORSET (THOMSON AND C o )

u n substance to insure both safety and sustaining power. Accidental inco n fastening of the front , so common, and, to say the least of it, venient , in the old form of attachment, is rendered impossible by the

i latcb introduction of a very ingen ous but simple spring , which is opened or closed in an instant at the pleasure of the wearer . This corset is

- decidedly the best form on the front fastening plan we have seen . Its mode of construction is excellent ; it is so cut as to admit of its adapting W e itself to every undulation of the figure with extraordinary facility . have suggested to the firm the advisability of furnishing to the public

R ) . DE LA R , ( CORSET OF MESSRS . GA DE PA IS BACK

” THE R R R R ED ESSEU CO SET OF VIENNA (WEISS) .

T H E R SE A D H E R E CO T N T C INOLIN .

who ride much on horseback ; but many ladies of great experience in the matter strongly condemn them as being ineffi cient and calculated to lead

t to much de riment to the figure . Thus writes a correspondent to the ’ E ng lisbw omans Domesti c M ag a z ine As one of your correspondents recommends the waistbands in lieu m of corsets, I have during the last three weeks ade a trial of them, and Shall be glad if you will allow me to express my opinion that they not only disadvantageous but positively dangerous to the figure . Your correspondent says that ordinary corsets, if drawn in well at the waist, l hurt a woman crue ly all the way up . I can only say that if she finds such to be the case the remedy is in her own hands . If ladies would only take the trouble to have their stays made to measure for them, and have plenty of room allowed round the chest, not only would the W waist look smaller, but no discomfort would be felt such as H . . is I describes . Young girls should always be accurately fitted, but it , n m a have fou d, a ist ke to have their corsets too flims or elastic . I quite — ed agree that they should be commenced early ind , they usually ar so, and thus extreme compression being unnecessary, the instances brought forward by the lady who commenced the discussion and by N ora must, I think, be looked upon as exceptional cases . F F E A R G E S E I M T ON . — “ Another lady writing in the same journal says No one will grudge ‘ The Young Lady Herself’ any sympathy she may claim for the condem torture she has submitted to, but so far from her case being nato r fo r y of stays it is the reverse, she candidly admits that she does not

- ff . No w su er ill health such a case as hers is an exception, and the N stout young lady spoken of by ora is also an exception, for it is seldom that girls are allowed to attain the age of fourteen or fifteen

r before commencing stays . The g eat secret is to begin their use as early as possible, and no such severe compression will be requisite . It seems absurd to allow the waist to grow large and clumsy, and then to E T H E CO R SET A N D T H E C R INOLIN . reduce it again to more elegant proportions by means which must at first v be more or less producti e of inconvenience . There is no article of

r u nco m civilised dress which, when first begun to be wo n, does not feel f r ab l o t e for a time to those who have never worn it before . The bare footed Highland lassie carries her shoes to the town, puts them on on a d her rrival, and discar s them again directly she leaves the centre of civilisation . A hat or a coat would be at first insupportable to the men o f h o w many nations, and we all know soon the African belle threw aside the crinoline she had been induced to purchase . But surely no one would argue against these necessary articles of dress merely on the v ground of incon enience to the wearer, for, however uncomfortable they o ff may be at first, it is astonishing how soon that feeling goes and how s indispensable they become. My opinion is that stays hould always be W ’ u . . . s made to order, and not be of too flimsy a constr ction I think H suggestions regarding the waistbands only applicable to middle-aged ffi ladies or invalids, as they do not give su cient support to growing girls, and are likely to make the figure look too much like a sack tied round ’ the middle instead of gradually tapering to the waist . Brisbane s letter shows h o w those who have never tried tight-lacing are prejudiced a against it, and that merely from being shown a print in an old medic l N ’ work, while ora s letter is infinitely more valuable, as showing how even the most extreme lacing can be employed without injury to health. “ ” H M S L . T O P ON . Such a work as this would be incomplete without some remarks touching the best means to be applied for the ach ievement of th e desired end, and hence a letter from a lady of great experience, who has ’ En lisbw omans paid much attention to the subject, contributed to the g

Domestic M a a z ine g , enables us to give the very best possible kind of — viz al information , that gathered by person observation . Thus she wri tes “ In the numerous communications on th e subject of tight-lacing T H E R S E AN D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

’ En lisbw omans Domestic M a az ine which have appeared in the g g , but little has been said on the best mode of applying the corset in order to produce elegance of figure . It seems to me that nearly all those who

ff - in udicious su er from tight lacing do so from an j use of the corset , and in such cases the unfortunate corset generally gets all the blame, and not the wearer who makes an improper use of it . I can easily understand that a girl who is full grown, or nearly so, and who has been unac ffi customed to wear tight stays, should find it di cult and painful to lace

’ in her waist to a fashionable si z e ; but if the corset be worn at an early age and the figure gradually moulded by it, I know of no terrible

' th erefo re reco mmend consequences that need be apprehended . I would No w the early use of a corset that fits the figure nicely and no more . , o nl t simply wearing stays that yfi , will, when a girl is growing, in a great measure prevent the waist from becoming clumsy . If, however, on her reaching the age of fourteen or fifteen, her waist be still considered too a l rge, a smaller corset may be worn with advantage, which should be raduall g y tightened till the requisite slimness is achieved . I know of so many instances in which , under this system, girls have, when full grown, possessed both a good figure and good health, that I can recommend it with confidence to those parents who wish their children to grow up into n elegant and healthy women . As to whether compressio of the waist by symmetrical corsets injures the health in any way, opinion seems to be

- divided . The personal experiences of tight lacers, as your correspondent

Belle has observed, will do more to solve this knotty question than any amount of theory. But whatever conclusion we may come to on this point , there is no denying the fact that very many of the strongest and

- healthiest women one sees in society habitually practise tight lacing, and apparently do so with impunity. “ R ER AN O LD SUB S C IB .

and As we have before stated, the remarks observations contained in the above letter are the result of careful study and a thorough acquaint

T H E R SE A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

’ e a res o o ed wo u d o er his ear reva D li , f h h p , l h t p il,

e ve o r nna and h er a dr T o l a C i t w y veil .

e ar rea o o " and m enus u de H , g t Ap ll y g i g i ,

T o n s o r o us m rac e o f r de Si g thi gl i i l p i ,

No r et d sda n th e sub e c fo r its name y i i j t , Since meaner things have o ft been sung to F ame ;

E ven bo o s and s urs ave raced ero c verse t p h g h i , ’ B u tle r his knight s who le su it did well rehearse ; ’ n arr s co s ume s ands u o n reco rd Ki g H y t t p ,

A nd ever a e w receden s affo rd y g ill p t .

en o n m Muse and n in e c s ra n Th , y , Si g pi t i

T h e e co a — o u s a no t s n in va n p tti t th h lt i g i , T h e pe ttico at will sure reward thy pain With all thy skill its secre t virtue s tell a ou d s be an A pettico t Sh l till h dled well .

Oh garment heavenly wide " thy spacio us round

. ’ D o s my asto nished thou ghts almo st co nfo und

M anc canno ras ee at a v ew y f y t g p th i , ’ r e er suc a c ure No ne at fi st Sight h pi t drew.

T h e dar n ar s a descr bes ee rue i g ti t th t i th t ,

Mus c an e his s de s as mo dern s a esmen do t h g i t t ,

O r e the a n er w en so me c u r h e draws lik p i t , h h ch , ’ o w n his o wn and not th e bu der s aws F o ll i g , il l ,

o nce s o ws but the ro s ec to th e s At h p p t ight, ’ r r n so u o e er an be r F o no th a d th t g th c t ight.

e nce e ro ane " no r n s a revea H , y p f thi k I h ll l T h e happy wo nders which these vests co nceal ; ’ ence ou r nh allo w d e es and ears re mo e H y u y v , ’ ’ ’ T i C u r s id s c c e tis th e o rb o f L ove. p i l , ’ Le t it suffice yo u see th unwieldy fair S ail through th e Streets with gales o f swelling air ;

No r n i e o o s th e ad es wou d e tr thi k (l k f l ) l i , l th y y, ’ rm d w e r urbe o ws and ese co u d fl A ith th i f l th , l y. ’ a s all ro mantick fo r ese armens ow Th t , th g t Sh

Th e ir thoughts are with their pettico ats belo w. T H E R S E A N D T H E R E CO T C INOLIN .

“ No r must we bl ame them whilst they stretch th e ir art I n i ich ado rnme nt and be ing wo ndrou s smart ; ’ r a er a s ma s and e m mo re in s e ad F o th t, p h p , y t t

an o ads o f r bbo ns flu er n o n the ead Th l i tt i g h .

A nd let o so ers sa w a e w , phil ph y h t th y ill , ’ ’ The re s so me thing sure r than the ir eyes do s kill ;

W the n m a we h er ace ado re e tell y ph th t f , But plain sh e sees we glance at so mething mo re

“ I n vain the ladie s spend the ir morning hours E re cting o n the ir heads stupendo us to wers ;

ba er fro m hence m scare the fo e A tt y t ight ,

But certain victo ry is g ained belo w. L e t D amon then th e adverse ch ampion be

o no s fo r him and e co a s fo r me T pk t , p tti t ; ’ Nor mus h e ur e o ils the ad es s a e t g it Sp l i h p , ’ T h o (as the mu ltitude at mo nsters gape ) T h e wo r d a ears all o s in w d amaz e l pp l t il ,

A s o n ese new ese stran e mac nes e az e th , th g hi th y g ;

F o r th e ueen th e o e s e l us of ro m Pa o s came if Q p t t l , f ph ,

red as we are o d b an ue ame Atti t l y tiq f ,

us would e wo nder at the ea en dam Th th y h v ly e.

I own the female world is much estranged

m a as a t ro w w nd o and bo om c an ed. F h t it , p tt h g

T h e ead was o nce e r dar n co ns an care h th i li g t t , ’ ’ But women s heads cant heavy burdens bear

A s muc mean as e can do e se ere h, I , th y l wh ;

So w se e rans erred th e mode o f dress i ly th y t f , ’ And urns r n f i hed t o the e d with th e excess. ’ at tho e res o r ramds e o w Wh lik Spi py i th y Sh , S ar at the to and vas o f bu k be o ? h p p, t l l w I t is a Sign they stand th e mo re secure :

ma o e w l no t e a c urc endure A yp l i l lik h h , A nd s s at sea w en s orm w nds revai hip , h t y i p l ,

A re sa er in e r ba as an eir sa f th i ll t th th il .

ai a co a " fo r mo dern damse s H l, h ppy t l fit, ’ ’ Product of ladies and of taylors wit H E R SE AN D T H E R 2 2 0 T CO T C INOLIN E.

d o f nven o n ra e r an o f Pr de Chil I ti th th i ,

a wo nders do s ou o w w a wo nders h de " Wh t t th Sh , h t i n th e e er o f u se u s ade Withi Sh lt thy f l h , ’ Thin Galatea s Shrive lled limbs appear A s plump and ch arming as they did l ast year ;

s a M iranda h e r an s a e m roves Whil t t ll l k h p i p ,

A nd race d b ee in so me ro o r o n mo ves , g y th , p p ti . ’ E v n tho se wh o are di minutive ly sho rt

Ma ease emse ves and ma e e r ne bours s o r y pl th l k th i igh p t,

en to e r arm s arnessed u in ee Wh , th i pit h p th , o n but e ad and e co a s e see N thi g h p tti t w .

But Oh " w a a ure fat Sem r ni ma e s " , h t fig p o a k At h er g ig antick fo rm th e pavement quakes ; ’ B th add o n s e s so mu c e nar e d y y iti h h l g , ’ ere e r sh e co me s th e sex o ns no w are c ar e d Wh , t h g That all church do ors and pews be wider made ’ as an a e to a o ner s rade A v t adv t g j i t .

“ Y e a r n m s a do hese armen s wear i y y ph , th t t g t ,

o r ve m an o f i no t wan o f care F gi y w t Sk ll, t ; F o rgive me if I have not well displayed

co a o r su c m o r an uses made A t f h i p t t .

au ave o r o was to rove If ght I h f g t, it p

H ow e are h o w a ro os fo r ove fit th y , p p l ,

H o w in e r c rc es co o n z e rs a th i i l li g phy pl y, ’ Ju st as a tall Ship s sails are filled o n so me bright su mmer — But there my Muse mu st halt she dare s no mo re ’ ” r Sh e k e o re Than hope th e pa do n which as d b f .

F i ashions have altered, t mes have changed, hooped petticoats have of been in turn honoured and banished, just as the fickle goddess the S n to mirror has decreed. Still, as an arrow hot in the air retur s in time so to earth, surely does the hooped jupon return power after a temporary estrangement from the world of gaiety. The illustration o n a 2 2 o f p ge 3 represents the last new form crinoline, and there can be no doubt that its open form of front is a most important and note

1868 . THE FASHION o r E T H E CO R S ET A N D T H E C R INOLIN .

worthy improvement . Preceding this engraving, we have an illustration representing two ladies in the costume of the present season arranged “ ” “ ” - fittin Z e h rina n over the glove g corset and p y jupon, for patter s of both of which we are indebted to the courtesy of Messrs . Thomson and

C o . , the inventors and manufacturers .

THE Z EPHYRI NA J UPON .

It is the custom with some authors to Uphold the claims of nature in matters relating to human elegance, and we admit that nature in her own way is particularly charming, so long as the accessories and surroundings are in unison . But in the human heart everywhere dwells an innate love of adornment, and untaught savages, in their toilet appliances and

- m W e tastes, closely resemble the belles of highly civilised co munities . have already referred to the crinoline petticoats worn by the Tah itian ff girls when they were first seen by the early navigators . The frilled ru H E R S E A N D T H E R E T CO T C INOLIN . which so long remained a high court favourite during the Eli z abethan no t period (and which, if we mistake , will again have its day) was as

d - - well known to the usky beauties of the palm clad, wave lashed islands of the Pacific, when Cook first sailed forth to discover new lands, as it

to o f . was the stately and proud dames Venice Beneath, we place S W o ne ide by side types of savage elegance and refined taste . here the / wh o sa P begins and the other ends, shall y

D R N . TAHITIAN ANCING GI L . VENETIA LADY

IND E X .

- in in 1 1 0 E art eat ava . Hin oo e es 2 . h g J , 3 d b ll , 9, E e rn Ar hi 1 1 0 as c e a o u se of th e corse in 0 . Hi n o o s an ar s of eau 2 . t p l g , t , d t d d b ty, 9, m r r 1 2 Edi c of th e E e o o se o f Au s ria or i i n Ho ar s a s rawn . t p J ph t f b dd g g th , t y d by, 9

th e u se of s a s 66. Homer s ea s of th e corse 0 . t y , p k t, 3 E in ur di i n ra o s of anec o te from 1 . d b gh , T t , d , 44 E ian ash i o ns and co st ume s 2 — 2 m ro vemen s in corsets rou a ou th e gyp t f , 5 7 . I p t b ght b t by

E as i c corse s con emne 2 1 ad vance of civfli s atio n 1 0 . l t t d d , 3 , m - 1 0 E eano r ou nte ss of eicester en r in ou se o n i an h unt e . l , , t y h h ld I d g b lt, 9, C L — re is i i 2 2 . e r of 6. srae i s a es g t , 45, 4 I l t h l d , 7 9 Elegance o f figure hi ghly e ste eme d by th e Per — sians 2 0 . ane S ore enance of 6 . , J h , p , 4 49

- E e an co s u mes of th e ancien ewis a i e s ava ear eatm in 1 . l g J h l , J , th g , 3 —t t t d 2 2 B mar s o n sta s 1 2 . . ons on en h i s re 7 9 J ( ) , k y , 3 Em r 1 0 ess of Au s ria th i 1 66 m s nd ri a di s . e ortra o f . u er a a p t , , p t , J p G b l , 3 E sca ad e o f ou n ou is o f rance 8 p y g L F , 9 .

E xtrava an f th R m n 6 in ar s . of En an as ions of th e cour ce o e o a a i es . e g l d , 3 K g Ch l I gl d, f h t 1 0 of, 3 .

eor e as ionin th e rei n of 1 . ami lie s Me i ci E s and n i n G g f h g , 35 te isco . F , d , , V t , 54 III in ames and hi s on ne ss for ress 8 0 . amil man e er rom a 1 8 1 8 K g J f d d , 9, 9 F y , l tt f , 4, 5 F r n e ashi n in th e rei n Ki n oui s . of a c , o ar i n ale th e ro e s a ains 1 1 0 . g XV f g F th g , , p t t g t, L

o f 1 0 . as i ona e romena e s of Anci en Rome , 9 F h bl p d t , 35 Ki r e th e 6 86 1 8 , , 4 ashi o n and re ss i n 1 . l F d 5, 9 t

as i on inth e rei n of e in 1 . F h g n P p , 4

ashi on in 1 1 1 1 . adi e s of Old Franc 1 . F 7 3 , 5 L g , 4 — hi 2 mi nu i ve wais of 1 66. as ons in Ancien E 2 . a Mor on i F t gypt, 7 9 L dy t , d t t , i ure n 1 82 m re au ter o f th e i n o f th e ai ri es e era remar s on th e . a Tria o F g , g l k , L dy , d gh K g F , — i u re e e r o n th e 1 0 1 . F g , l tt , 9 93 45 ’ - fi u re re u ctio n of th e ancien inh a itants of a s mai accom is men s o f a 1 2 . g , d , by t b L dy d, pl h t , 3 P l n 1 0 m f . o e ui . Launfal oe o q; , p , 45 ' - 82 8 6 . i ure traini n 1 1 . awn rufi s of u een ess F g g, 33, 7 L Q B , , 7

o o a s inence rom an assis ance to th e corse aws sum u ar re a i n to ress 0 . F d, b t f , t t , L , pt y, l t g d , 9 I I e e r rom a a wh o a i u a aces wit 44, 49 L tt f l dy, h b t lly l h r hi n in r n n m i ness in raise of th e rac i ce ea s of as o a ce a d erman . extre e F k f F G y, 54 t ght , p p t , — renc revo u ionar eri o dr e ss u rin 1 2 . 1 82 1 8 . F h l t y p d, d g, 9 4 ron - asteni n s a s remar s concermn e e rs rom adi es wh o ave een su ecte to F t f g t y , k g , L tt f l h b bj d — — - 1 6 2 0 2 2 0 . i acin 1 . 4 t ght l g, 55 4 8 . o f rance cour of . Loui s XIV F , t , 9 f i g - ee e Ga th e wri in s o f 1 2 . ui s XI V . of F rance th e co ur o y , t g , 3 L o , t , h h h l d u ardi an th e corres on ence rom re a in to s o es s en er w ais s and anc cos umes G , , p d f , l t g h , l d t , f y t ,

th e as i o ns of 1 1 1 1 0 1 1 1 1 6 1 1 1 2 0 1 2 1 s i ona e at 8. f h 7 3, , 5, , 9, , , fa h bl , 9

de or aine e e dress of . L oui s e L r , f t , 97 f ' 2 uar l an th e e te rs from re a in to low resses oui se de orraine s ran e rea s of 97 . , , l t , l t g d L L , t g f k , 9 , — and i s a s 1 2 0 1 2 . t g ht t y , 3 ’ us s h fi 1 me of . avu s A o u t e o cers of . Mari e d An ou co stu G t d lph , f , 35 j , , 54

di ci and th e co s umes of h er ime . Marie de Me t t , 97

Hair ow er i ts in ro u c io n . Marie S u art co s u me o f 1 p d , t d t , 97 t , t , 59

1 1 . Henr o f rance a wearer o f corse s 6 81 . M i a evi ence in avou r o f s a s , 35 y III F t , 7 , ed c l d f t y , 34 E IND X .

Me ica man e e r ro m in avour of mo era e Sna e -te e s oes o n s eeves and i - d l , l tt f , f d t ly k d h , l g l , h gh heele d i h aci n 1 1 . s ers . t ght l g, 54, 55 pp , 59 Star h m th 8 Mine ac rs s ri be 2 1 . c e art f 2 co e e c o . t b k t d d , 3 g , , S a is i s Mi ra u se th e Greci an a i es . c ex rao rdinar of th e co rse ra e t d by l d , 33 t t t , t y, t t d ,

- 1 Mo de of ad di ng stabi li ty to th e fro nt faste nmg 95 .

corse 2 0 . S a u e a as io na dre sse 1 80 t, 9 t t , f h bly d, . Morta i amo n th e emale sexnot o nth e incre ase S a s o rmi a e i n of in u se in 1 6 1 2 l ty g f , t y , f d bl k d , 77 , 9

1 . S a s th e enera u se f th e w r 95 t y , g l o o d afte r 1 60 0 i n E n n 1 2 a . gl d, 4

au ors eir remar s on s a s 1 . S a s worn a i u a nt em 1 e en . Old th , th k t y , 94 t y h b t lly by g l , 35 Stro h iu m th e u se of th e ad i es f me o Ro . p , , by l , 33 — e us th e . S u s hi i on th e ru ff 8 8 P pl , , 33 t b , P l p , , 7 9 . ro rt i ns f th fi ur nd siz e of w ais n S u s h i s in i n i n 88 8 o o o e e a co a o . P p g t t b , d g t , , 9 d 1 si der . e , 93

1 0 a i - Pimtani sm i ts e ffec e n as i on . er wa s ts and fi ure rainin i nAnci en Ro me , t f h , 4 T p g t g t , 8 3 .

u een Anne as i ons u rin th e rei n of 1 1 0 . Terentiu s stri ures and r mar s 0 ct e of . Q , f h d g g , , k , 3 n ne de Me i i nd u en E i z a e i r e en ce n u r th e sma w 2 ue e a eri c a e ais s o f . Q C th d Q l b th Th t th t y, ll t , 4 ’ 2 oms n s -fi tt n 2 0 0 o f En an . o o ve i corse s 2 . gl d , 7 , 75 Th gl g t , 4, 5 ’ i r 8 88 i corse s e te r in rai s f 1 82 1 8 u een Eh z abeth s co e cti on of alse a . e o . Q ll f h , 7, T ght t , l t p , , 3 m n s wai s s i cors ets nee de for s o r w i s s 1 0 u een news a er et er ro o mal a . Q p p , l t f , l t , T ght d h t t , 9 - - 1 6 1 68 i as i n revive 1 0 . 5 . T ght l g d, 3 oil e of a Ro man ad f n — 6 o as i o . T t l y f h , 34 3

Re re sseur corset of i enna 2 1 0 . d V , nited S ate s f Ameri 1 Re mar s n th n e s hi 1 U o ca e es o f th e . o e c a of as on . k h g f , 43 t , b ll , 53 Remarks on th e fli ms y materials u sed i n making m i ns f th e adi 82 8 m m 2 1 0 e os as o o es f . so e o ern co rsets . o d , V , f h l , , 7 Re nval o f th e aste fo r sma wais s in enu s de Me i ci waist of con raste Wi t th e t ll t Old V d , , t d h 1 80 rance 1 . w ais of ash i on . F , 4 t f ,

man enus th e ce s u s o f 0 . Ro a s . b th , 34, 35 V , t , 3

Ro a s andar f i 2 i enna slen er w ais s th e as io n in 1 6 . o as ona le s en erness . y l t d f h b l d , 7 V , d t f h , 5 Vo lu minous nether-garments of th e gentleme n o f

S co an small waists ad mire in in o en M es th e E i z a e an erio 82 . tl d, d , ld , l b th p d, 0 5 . h S cri ura re erences 2 . aist t e oint at wh ic it s ou d be o rmed pt l f , 9 W , p h h l f ,

S e Mrs . th e inven i n f w 2 1 1 1 . o o revie e . lby, , t , d, 7 93, 94 -m men 2 0 S e f easure re mar s co ncernin . l t, k g, 9 m 1 8 S or wai sts and 1 2 un aront e r r . on rains . o e te o h t l g t , 9 Y g B , l t f , 4

Siamese ress th e 8. d , , 9 i -arms f th E i z a t an ri 1 Ze h rina u ms on d 2 2 1 S e o e e . n f o n e o o o a C o . d l b h p d, 9 p y j p Th

New Books and New Editions

“ ’ ” n ersa eo ra m 8 0 - n o rm w ee o ns v 8cc. de v a ro an r ce s U if ith B t U i l G g phy, , y , h lf , p i I 5 . er n With num o u s Illustrati o s. N’ N N N N BEETO S DICTIO ARY OF U IVERSAL I FORMATIO , m r s n the Sc e nces r s Literai no w ed e w th e t Z . o E m A o C p i i g i , A t , y K l g , ith ty o logy r and Pro nunciatio n o f eve ry L e adi ng Te m.

Mr e e on h as u bh sh ed u i e a h b rar o f enera know e e and i n o rma i on and h i s o o s B t p q t y g l l dg f t , b k ‘ o f re erence con ai n as mu c as man more e a ora e wor s ou u bhs h ed at a f th e ri ce and f t h y l b t k , th gh p h l p , r nce —T/ze S atu rda Bemew Wi th less than h alf th e p e te y . ’ ” o se Mana emen -b r n o rm w Mrs. u o d a ound ce s . 6d. U if ith BEETON S H h l g t, h lf , p i 7 BEETON’ S BOOK OF GARDEN MANAGEMENT AND E mbrac n all nds o f no rm o RURA L E CO NOMY . i g ki I f ati n co nnecte d with

ru o wer and c en ar n u va o n rc d ouses ees &c. &c F it, Fl , Kit h G de C lti ti , O hi H , B , , ., s with numero us C ut . ’ ” m Mrs. T o use o d Mana emen a -boun r d n o r w d ce s . 6 . U if ith BEE ON S H h l g t, h lf , p i 7 ’ BEETON S BO OK OF HOME PETS ; showing Ho w to Rear and Mana e in S c ness and in ea — rds Po u r P e o ns abb s u nea g i k H lth Bi , lt y, ig , R it , G i P s o s a s S u rre s o r o ses anc M ce ees S i wo rms Po nes ig , D g , C t , q i l , T t i , F y i , B , lk , i ,

o n e s o a s n ab i an s o f th e uar um &c. &c. us ra ed b u wards o f 2 0 0 D k y , G t , I h t t Aq i , Ill t t y p E n rav n s and I beau u o o ured P a es b RR R and L g i g I tif lly C l l t y HA ISON WEI F . KEY .

us ead c o and e d es r ce s . J t R y, l th gilt gilt g , p i 5 N AND N EN HOUSEHOLD AMUSEME TS E JOYM TS . Com r s n c n - arades ur es ues o nundrums E n mas ebus s and a number p i i g A ti g Ch , B l q , C , ig , R e ,

o f ne Puz z es in e nd ess var e o d n o oured ro ntis iece . w l l i ty. With F l i g C l F p

Po s 8ve r ce s 6d. t , p i 3 . ’ N N - W BEETO S DICTIO ARY OF EVERY DAY COOKERY . ith “ n mero us us ra o ns. Mrs. LL u o r o f T h e o o o f u Ill t ti By ISABE A BEETON , A th B k ” “ ” o use o d M ana emen . e n the rs o f th e A LL T I T o s H h l g t B i g Fi t ABOU B o k . “ f M rs BE E TON re ared ibis v olume in com liance w itb i be w isbes o a reat i . p p p f g number o corres ondents w bo w ere desirous o ossessin a Boob o E conomical R ec es f p , f p g f ip , w bicls m bl be tborou b reli ed on and w bicb could be urcbased or a lo w er rice tban ibe ig g ly , p f p ” mer us editions nd f uel Housebold M ana ement. I t bus assed tbrou b nu o a ) da increases g p g , y in av our ill) mi dle- cl s milies f w d a s fa .

r rm th e o o o f r s. o e e n e d s e s 6d. n o d a e c . u w Cl th l g t, gilt g , p i 3 , if ith B k Bi N ’ AND N BEETO S BOOK OF POULTRY D OMESTIC A IMALS . S o w n H o w to ear and M ana e in S c ness and in ea —P e o ns Po u r h i g R g i k H lth ig , lt y uc s u r e s eese abb s o s a s S u rre s anc Mi ce o r o ses D k , T k y , G , R it , D g , C t , qi l , F y , T t i

e es S rms Po n s n n ab n s o f th uar um c &c. wo e o e s a e & . B , ilk , i , D k y , I h it t Aq i , 9 “ 53 Tbis v olume contains upw ards of One Hundred E ng rav ing s and F rv e C oloured Plates rom [Vo ter- C olour D ra s f w ing by HARRISON WEIR.

P ublisb b Wa d L ck ed r o and T ler. y , , y New Books and New Editions

o e e an ed e s r ce s . 6d. Cl th l g t, gilt g , p i 3 ’ BEETON S BOOK O F BIRDS ; showing Ho w to Rear and Manage

them in Sickness and in H ealth . Tbis v olume contains upw ards of One Hundred E ng rav ing s and Six exquisitely Coloured

- ’ Plates rinted ac simi le rom Galaa d Sbetcbes b RR R. Tbc en rav in s embrace , p f f y HA ISON WEI g g v er v ariet o ca e cot tra rame dia rams i llustratin met/sods sl n and i llustrali n e y y f g , , p, f , g g of ufi g , g i e t s ets tbe principal species of b rds b p a p .

’ P LAR T LA E DOWE R S PO U A S S , S L S M L E S FO R CHOO AND FA I I .

Tbc name of DOWER is as closely associafed w itb M aps and Atlases as is Webster ’ w itb Dictionaries D ow er s M a s are to be tboron b relied u on and reat ains are taben . p g ly p , g p b tbe ublzsbers tbal rom time to time tbese M a s sball be correcled and enlar ed as new y p , f , p g , ies nd ev ents render necessar addi tions to tbe names in an Atlas or b sical di scov er a y , p y and litic l cb n es demand alterations in eo ra btcal boundaries po a a g g g p ,

Pr ce 1 z s i . W ’ N D O ER S SCHO OL ATLAS O F MODER GEOGRAPHY. 0 Ma 8 4 p ' to r ce 1 s 4 , p i s . W ’ N N D O ER S GE ERAL ATLAS O F MODER GEOGRAPHY .

53 Maps. Pr ce s 6d. i 7 . ’ W N 2 6 D O ER S MI OR SCHOOL ATLAS . Maps .

r P ice 5s . ’ W 1 D O ER S SHORT ATLAS (for Younger Pupils) . 7 Maps .

r I 6d. P ice s . ’ W 1 2 D O ER S POPULAR ATLAS . Maps .

-m r Pr ce o s . a o o cco i 3 h lf , 3 5s . ’ N : MIL ER S DESCRIPTIVE ATLAS being a Series of Maps, us ra ve o f s ro no m and P s ca and Po ca eo ra B the Re Ill t ti A t y hy i l liti l G g phy. y v . M T h e Ma s o f P s M L R M . A P . ca and o ca e r THO AS I NE , , F p hy i l liti l G o g aphy co ns ruc ed and co rrec ed b G P RM t t t y AU USTUS ETE ANN,

m t c e d e s I o o i ice s . p. 4 , l th , gilt g , p I 5 A A A I 6 A SCHOOL ATL S OF PHYSIC L GEOGR PHY. Maps . o ns ruc ed b G P RM L e er- re ss b th e Re C t t y AU USTUS ETE ANN, F tt p y v. THOMAS MILNER.

P ublis/J ed b Ward Lock and T ler y , , y . New Books and New Editions

I L L UST RAT E D G I FT B O O KS .

ab i an i Ar N g h t s .

I n o ne andso me vo ume c o e ered l s . e e an bou nd in beve ed boards h l , l th l tt , g ; l g tly ll , gilt m r 1 d - m r o es z l s o o cco s 6 . a des bac and ed . o o cc 2 s . Si , k, g , , 3 ; h lf , 4 DALZIEL’ S ILLUSTRATED ARABIAN NIGHTS ’ ENTER

u ards o f 2 0 0 Pi c ure s drawn b . E L I ME NT S w w M R . T A N . . A , ith p t , y J IL AIS, , P N L . . G . . I WELL and . L J . TENNIE , J . D . WATSON, A B HOU HTON , G J , T DALZIE , rnamen a rders E n r h o e e r w n a L e ers o 8cc. Sec. aved b t e t g th ith I iti l tt , O t l B , , g y Bro thers DALZIEL . Th si ns ar u in roa and ower u manner are r ar i s i c in s nd e e e wro a , u iri , a ave d g ght b d p f l t ly t t p t h” mm n th d al We co e e e s to se . a force that makes them w elcome . d g n tho wh o h ke healthy work th u m A ence . m f m f i r f m ri n er c ever en ravin s so e o e o a o er o e a d excee in s iri te . V y l g g ; th h gh d t, d gly p d S ecla tor p . e‘s Tbc text bav in beenv er car ul rev ised tbis E di tionis undoubted tbc best one or amilies . fi r g y ef ly , ly f f

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to oned a e r e x ra c o e d es r ce I s . 4 , t p p , t l th gilt, gilt g , p i 5 ’ W W S W T ND . . . POETS I A HUMOUR . Selected by H ILL Illustrated with 1 0 0 C uriou s E ngravings fro m D rawings by CHARLES BENNETT and M GEORG E THO AS .

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to r ce s . 6d. c o o r beve ed b oards ed e s I O s 6d. 4 , p i 7 l th ; ll , gilt g , . THE PILGRIM’ S PROGRESS FROM THIS W ORLD TO THAT I S M E O O . B T . a Memo r o f th e u o r WHICH C y JOHN BUNYAN With i A th , b . . D U LC KEN Ph . D Pa e an r . 1 0 0 d o er us a o n b M y H W , With g th Ill t ti s y THO AS and en rave d b th e ro ers DALZIEL, g y B th DALZIEL .

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T HE HO M E READI NG ” L I B RARY .

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RL th e Rev. L RD D. GI . By RICHA COBBO

AND W E E M U R THE BUD THE FLO ER ; or, ELL N S Y O . By M rs S L S ARD. . AVI E HEPP

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B LE I B S .

' M atth ew H enry s C omme nt ary on th e H oly Bib le . THE UNABRIDGED ILLUSTRATED EDITION OF HENRY’ S L E W ere n e ac a e r is summed u in its o n en s th e S acred ex BIB , h i h Ch pt p C t t ; T t se rted at l arge in distinct Paragraphs ; each Paragraph re du ced to its pro per heads ; th e sense i ven and ar e i us ra e d w Prac ca emar s and O bse rva i o ns g , l g ly ll t t ; ith ti l R k t ; bes des S M R to e ac o o I n th e O ld e s amen to th e o u r i UPPLE ENTA Y NOTES h B k T t t, F o s e s and th e c s o f th e o s es ar e add o ns to the E X OF T HE G p l , A t Ap tl , l g iti POSITION E L P and numero u s o o d En rav n s i us ra ve o f b ca PIST ES AND APOCALY SE, W g i g ll t ti Bi li l

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u d Ne E d o n ca 8 o s ea w . v 6 J t R y, iti , f p , 79 pp. W THE ANALYTICAL BIBLE : The AUTH O R I SED V E R SION . ith e e rences and eadi n s na ca o es a ende d to E ac o o R f R g , A lyti l N t pp h B k, s o r ca o nne c o n o f O ld and New e s amen s var o us u se u ab es and Hi t i l C ti T t t , i f l T l ,

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NO ea a 8 Ne E o n c . vo 2 0 W d w d . R y, iti , f p , 9 pp E E THE POCKET COMMENTARY : The AUTH O R I S D V R SION . With C ritical and Ill ustrative No tes and Reference s and Readings ;

P ublisbed b ard Lock and T ler W . y , , y

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C HI L DRE N’ S B O O KS AND J UVE NI L E

PU B L I C AT I O NS .

o rinted o nfin r in o ours s 6d. art co oured o e a e bo ards s e nd d ra er . F li , p p p , , pl i W pp C l , 3 ; p ly l , d red e d es be au i ul co oure d i e d es s . 6 . s . a es g , 5 pl t t f ly l , g lt g , 7 ’ O WN THE CHILD S ALBUM , in Pictures and Verse, of Favourite

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be au i ul co oured ed es s 6d. ar co oured red ed e s s . t f ly l , gilt g , 7 . p tly l , g , 5 ’ THE CHILD S FAMOUS PICTURE BOOK . Plenty to laugh at, and man re le V erses and ent to earn. wards o f 0 0 P c ures and pl y l Up 5 i t , y p tty litt S o r es t i .

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o ours r ce s . o r w a nP c ures r ce r. C l , p i 9 ith pl i i t , p i s ’ N 0 THE CHILDRE S PICTURE GALLERY . A Series of 8 beau i ul En rav n s ro m Pa n n s b em nen r s s ada ted for th e oun wi t f g i g , f i ti g y i t A ti t , p Y g, th

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to hal c o a rac ve ra er in o ours r ce s 4 , f l th , tt ti W pp C l , p i 5 .

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“ ’ th e i dren s P c ure a e r to a c o re ra er in Uniform with Ch l i t G ll y, 4 , h lf l th, p tty W pp o o urs r ce s C l , p i 5 . ’ THE CHILD S PICTORIAL MUSEUM OF BIRDS, BEASTS , S ES eau u us ra ed w ar e P c ures r ne d in o o urs b AND FI H . B tif lly Ill t t ith l g i t , p i t C l y E DM E and numerous o er eas n En rav n s w n eres n de scr o ns UND VANS, th pl i g g i g , ith i t ti g ipti in ar e e l g typ .

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t ati ns boards a c o e d es s . 6d. r o , , h lf l th , gilt g , 7 ’ THE CHILD S O WN BO OK OF SCRIPTURE PICTURES . S cenes fro m th e New Testament .

P s mouned o n c o s . 6d. ri ce 5 . ; t l th, 7 ’ O F F EFFIE S FAVOURITE BO OK PRETTY AIRY TALES .

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n m b ve o oured us ra o ns 6s o e o r w h the a o C I . c h ed s s 6d. U if it , l ll t ti , l t , gilt g , 7 . D M AND OMESTIC ANI ALS THEIR HABITS .

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n orm w the above r ce s U if ith , p i 5 . CRO W U ILL’ S ALFRED Q FAMOUS FAIRY TALES .

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S cr ure L esso ns abes in the o o d. ipt , B W

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d. er o ume us ra ed ra ers a c o t a n 2 s 6d co o ured s . 6 v . Ill t t W pp , h lf l h , pl i , . . ; l , 3 p l PRETTY LITTLE LESSONS FOR PRETTY LITTLE

L E us ra ed w 2 0 re P c ures. CHI D R N . Ill t t ith 5 p tty i t EASY TALES AND PLEASANT STORIES FOR OUR E S Embe s E r n . ed u ards o f 2 0 0 n av s YOUNG F RI ND lli h with pw g i g . BIBLE SKETCHES FROM THE OLIS AND NEW E S E S a a r s ra ns M d ed fo u n m r u s u o . d n . nu e o T TA NT , pt J ve ile Rea i g With Ill t ti N N N SACRED READI G FOR YOU G CHILDRE . Selected from s men mer E r he O ld e a nu o us n av n s. t T t t. With g i g

mo c o an o n s d r r es s de s bac I m . 2 d e ce s o o u ed P a p 3 , l th gilt gilt i , p i 5 . ; C l l t , gilt i , k,

and ed es s . g , 9 N AND NEW URSERY RHYMES , OLD . A Collection of all the mo s avou r e urser me s n es and S o r es a so man New nes no w fo r t F it N y Rhy , Ji gl , t i ; l y O me r ne m r th e rs d u e ous ever and arac er s c us ra o ns. fi t ti p i t . N Cl Ch t i ti Ill t ti

I m . 2 mo c o r ce s. w o oured us ra o ns ex ra c o and p 3 , l th gilt, p i 5 ith C l Ill t ti , t l th gilt, ed es 6 s d. gilt g , 7 . NEW COMICAL NURSERY RHYMES AND FUNNY STORIES M E L L E L E L umerous c arac er s c TO AK ITT CHI D R N AUGH . N h t i ti En ra n s g vi g .

b s b War P u li bed d Loeb and T ler. y , , y

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o a 1 6mo c o bo ards r ce I s R y l , l th , p i . W EBSTER’ S (NOAH) PRONOUNCING DICTIONARY O F T H E E L S L E NG I H ANGUAG .

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