Vintage Notions Volume 1 Issue 9 MONTHLY

A Guide Devoted to the LOVE of Needlework, Cooking, Sewing, Fashion & Fun

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The photo you see above is the image from the cover of the September 1920 Inspiration newsletter that was published by the Woman’s Institute of Domestic Arts and Sciences which inspired my book Vintage Notions. For a more modern look I chose to update this edition with the cover artwork from the August, 1923 issue of the Woman’s Institute Fashion Service magazine.

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC 1-:======Edited by Gus TAVE L . .WE 1 N s s ======:i

OW comes the time of the JTIS along these lines that the N year when activities in Institute has been advancing nearly all lines of endeavor are Preparations. since its inception. Ever since resumed with new vigor. The we began to teach we have had school bells have sounded, call­ for Service the thought of service to our ing teachers and scholars back students uppermost in mind. to their studies; vacations are BY THE EDITOR Was there a change to be made, practically over, permitting the it was considered from the angle problems of home life and business to be taken up of whether or not it would mean better service for again with unbroken sequence; the very air seems our students. Was a new policy to be inaugurated, to. have become charged with an impelling influ­ it was put forth with the idea of rendering bettel" ence, inspiring one and all to renew efforts that service. Preparation for service has been, is, and were more or less hampered in the summer months. will continue to be our policy. We learn from It is undoubtedly good for all of us to pass experience, and as we learn we aim to give our through a period that calls for a certain amount of friends the benefit of the knowledge we acquire. relaxation. Changes of this kind are conducive to mental balance. They permit us to look into our DURING the past few weeks we have been pre- future and to plan and prepare for the service that paring for distribution to our dressmaking we must give if we would achieve success. students a book that will be of extreme value to them. This book we call the "Woman's Institute ERVICE. What a magnetic word this is now­ Fashion Service." It contains authentic styles in S adays! At one time one who served was looked dresses, suits, coats, and wraps for the fall and upon as a slave, as a menial. To offer service winter season of 1920-1921. There is also text mat­ placed one in a lower stratum of society. Now ter explaining each one of the illustrations and its business firms are vying with- one another to see variations, which should enable Institute students which can render the best service to their cus­ to make for themselves clothes that will carry with tomers; schools and colleges are exerting extra­ them the consummation of ideas of expert design­ ordinary efforts to provide for their students that ers here and abroad. service which will enable them to cope with life in Our hope, with this Fashion Service, which will all its phases; individuals are coming to the realiza­ be published in the spring and fall of each year, is tion that "he fares best who serves best." Every­ simply to enhance the value of the service we where we look we see the banner of service leading already extend and thus enable our students to be the procession of the earnest and the prosperous. of greater service to themselves and others. JFYOU read between the lines of present-day so,in harmony with the spirit of progressive announcements of progressive institutions, you firms and individuals, it is of paramount im­ will quickly perceive that they are engaged in portance for all those who are the least inclined to undertakings that bespeak much for the future indecision to prepare for the service they must ren ­ good of themselves and those they wish to serve. der if they would reap the reward of industry. They realize that the war years of arrested de­ It requires courage and ambition to plan and pre­ velopment have set them back and that they must pare for the rendering of real service. Some are speed up to meet present demands, as well as antici­ too much inclined to remain at a standstill, thiiaking pate the needs of years ahead. But right prepara­ that what they now do is sufficient and trying to tion will enable them not only to give immediate make themselves believe that it is all right to let service, but to increase their service as time goes on. good enough alone. But that is where they err. And what better thought can we as individuals The call of today is for progress . No one, great have for ourselves? In preparing our minds and or small, unless he is content to trail behind, dare our hands to render service for the good of others, ignore this call. The ambitious will keep on pro­ we put ourselves in a condition to serve immediately gressing, knowing that the preparations they make and to improve our service as we strive. for service today will aid them on the morrow.

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Happy Thinking

HAPPINESS By MARY BROOKS PICKEN books. If I stopped a moment to rest my is such a Director of Instruction arms from sweeping, I had a word with big, gener­ Browning. While I stirred my cake, Keats ous, under­ known a grea t grief! As I thought about was within communing distance. I found standable it, I marvel ed at her power of adjustment, time to look away for a moment fr om the word that I her poise, her command of herse lf. She, a most homely task. Matthew Arnold, T en­ re a 11 y de- cultured woman, capab le of the finest feel­ nyson, and a distinguished group of poets and essayists were always r eady to respond ill!JJ/:.i/r.}i;~[:~°"JJlight in us- ings, had endured so much ! But she was r ing it. I sat my host ess, and she felt it her duty to make to my call for inspiration and help me to the other me happy, and in doing it she was bene­ live above the routine of the day's work. day, feeling fited, for she veri ly radiated happiness and "I am called a good hou sekeepe r, an ex­ much de­ good cheer. cellent cook. I consider it high credit·; and pressed, and un­ I trust and believe that it is credit to whic h consciously my A LETT ER of severa l pages came to my I am entitled. I can not say that I have pencil w r o t e desk the other day, and as it was such learned to regard housework with consum­ H-a-p, and then it seemed th e other letters a happy letter I read it three times. Lik e ing affection; but I dare say that I have needed to spell happiness just natur ally cool water, it actually r efres hed me. For come to get great and peculia r satisfactio n connected themselves to th ese first thr ee instance, this paragraph : from the consciousness that I can do letters. When I glanced at the paper and "Whenever I hear people talking about housework year in and year out, do it well, saw the word complete, I was interested. I homekeeping being so 'drab,' I wonder why and at the same time keep in vital and was not conscious of having written it. all women, even those wit h lar ge families, intimate contact with the finest expres­ Just seeing the word made me smile and do not find some little side issue that to sions of human inspiration and wisdom . I the smile brought cheerf ul reflections, and them spells 'play ,' and then play a littl e know the joy that comes at night from soon I was surrounded by happy thoughts. all along the way. I've always been blessed honest and efficient discharge of the day's with a keen ima ginati on, so that I could work. The degree of the work has ceased THE word and its effect reminded me of see gardens and cast les even if I liv ed in a to trouble me. All useful and necessary a simi lar circumstance that a friend desert, couldn't you? " work fits into the great scheme of th.i11gs. told me about. This friend had gone to And then this : Emerson did his work; I do min e. We are bed thoroughly discoura ged and burdened ''I must not close until I tell you some­ comrades. The spirit of usefulness joins with self-pi ty. As she was lying there, thing of the delightful time I am havin g us in the great freemasonry of servic e." magnifying every conceivable discom­ this season. At first I worked on th e fiture, she heard a member of the hou se­ sewing samplers after I had done a day' s THIS woman evidences that she is not by hold arguing with a man who had a big work (and somet imes more) of sewing for any means one· of the kind who literally cartload of sand to deliver, the man insist­ other people. Now I start out the other pinch th emselves to feel the hurt. It is ing that the sand belonged at this friend's way. Each morning I'm taking two hour s surprising how many, man y of this latter number. She looked out of the window for study before I open up my sewing. I type one finds even among one's fri ends,­ and saw the sand, and her sense of humor knew all the time that I should do this , but people who will hug ima ginary or magni­ immediately became evident . Sand! Th at I felt rush ed for tim e. I soon found th at fied hurts, who will insi st upon reminiscing was exactly what she needed, a mental I'd gain time by kn owing more, so the over sadnesses, anticipating misfortunes,' sand tonic to stimulate her appreciation busier I get from now on the more I shall instead of filling each hour with pleasant and to increase her tolerance. -study and apply my Dr essmak ing less ons. th oughts , wholesome, healthy th oughts that The sand was delivered at a correspond­ "I was amazed to learn that people ar e will keep them alert and mentally ready for ing numb er in the next block, but the always eager for thinking dressmakers­ emergencies. A happy thinking mind is a driver, unknowingly, had accomplished a those who can help them plan their gar­ veritable antidote for mistakes and wor­ good deed, for the humor of the situation ments. One lady brought materials for ries. Happy thinking people are always brought smiles, and smiles always eradicate four fall dresses for her self and thr ee good company for themselves, as well as worry wrinkles. daughter s, saying, 'You design them and delightful companions for other folks. make them as they should be for us.' So I RECENTLY I went to see a very good had the pleasure of planning every detail BRUCE BARTON has written an edi- friend who had lost her dau ghter and of each one. When I explained my plan torial that I have read often. The title whose son had moved across the continent. for the embroidery and other decoration s, is, "Do You Bore Knowing this mother's great affection for she said, 'Yes, I like your ideas. It's a de­ Yourse lf?" Happy her two children, I dread ed conversation light to find some one who can help me thinkers never bore with her, feeling that she would be grieved plan clothes so satisfac tor ily.' And, Mr s. themselves because and not happy. I said when starting that I Picken, last month I added sixty whole dol­ they always hav e would do almost anything rather than go. lars to my 'Ki~chen Fund.'" a little happiness But I went and I stayed thr ee whole hours. retreat that is col­ We talk ed about fruit, flowers, the school QNL Y the other day I read of a hou se­ ored with the ex­ problems, and we discus sed our cherished wife who has found it necessary to do quisite hues of im­ authors. Then we talked of astrology and all her own house work for the first time in agination and ap­ astronomy, God and nature. I never had a her experience. She write s thus: preciation. An d more delightful visit. "I decid ed to ma ste r my work, not to al­ from thi s retreat I never went home feeling happier and low my work to master me. I determined lead paths of glad­ more enthusiastic. But when I arrived to treat work respectfully and to insist ness that are open there , the folks began to sympathize with upon re spectfu l treatment from · my work. al ways to those who me, thinkin g that I had spent an unpl eas ­ Instead of employing the breathing int er­ app re cia te ant evening, and then I remembered how I va ls in my day's routine in complaining of life, work, felt when I started out. Was it possible the hardships of my lot, I liv ed every spare opportunity, that this delightful woman had so recently moment in the inspiring company of good and fri ends.

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Two-Fabric Frocks

THE reign of high prices has been a By ALWILDA FELLOWS After embroidering the vest, pin the sec­ trying period for the great majority of Department of Dressmaking tions to the waist, adjusting them so that us, for it has required unusually careful they will meet at the neck edge and part planning to make every expenditure worth in the collar. For some types, the use of a several inches at the waist line. Then, at while and not of short, temporary value. light color near the face is not really nec­ the center front, pin a strip of the light­ But even such despotism as has been as­ essary, but for the majority of women such colored silk, securing it underneath the sumed by high prices has its advantages, a touch seems to provide a softening tone dark -colored vest sections. Arrange the for what could better inspire the designing that is essential. opening of the waist where the left side of of two-fabric styles, which permit the use the dark-colored vest section overlaps the of odd lengths of material, or the remodel­ pATTERN formation for a dress such as lighter colored portion underneath, and the ing of dresses that have already given a this is very simple. Use a plain-wai st opening of the skirt on the seam line at the season or two of servicce, by combining pattern for the foundation and, in cutting, left side front. unworn sections taken from them with a yard or two of contrasting fabric? A STYLE such as this would be lovely And now that the two-fabric model has if made of a combination of satin been found so satisfactory and pleasing in with velvet, Georgette crepe, or chiffon, or every respect, we shall be reluctant to dis­ it might be made entirely of one kind of card it. It has taught us many a lesson material with a little contrast afforded by in thrift simply because its very attrac­ ~ the collar and inserted vest section .. The tiveness and its use of comparatively back of the dress might be made very in­ small sections of material have suggested teresting by the addition of a pan el extend­ endless possibilities for utilizing every ing from the shoulders to the lower edge garment in our wardrobe, which may of the skirt and looped under the hem. have become worn or somewhat out of date. WITH fall days approaching and in- Hope for a decline in the price of ma­ door social activities beginning in terials has already had encouragement earnest, sheer light dresses, although dur­ in the few cases where a favorable change ing the summer months they served ap­ has been made, and we have every reason propriately for afternoon wear, do not to believe that the pinnacle of high prices seem quite suitable for indoor afternoon has been surmounted. But even yet we functions. And here the need of a dark should not pass by any opportunities for silk dress is realized, for what is more making the most of what we have on disappointing than to feel the inadvisa­ hand, for while fashion is favoring us bility of accepting an invitation simply with its recognition of two-fabric models, because one's clothes do not seem well is the time to make use of every dis­ fitted for the occasion? It is really quite carded garment that will lend itself to a simple matter to overcome such a dis­ present use. advantage if one has just a little time to devote to remodeling, for, with a past PERHAPS the prime favorite of the season's dress and a yard or so of ma­ combination dresses is the type made of terial that harmonizes with that in the blue serge or tricotine and black satin. dress, the identity of the olde r material Not only is such a combination very pleas­ may be completely disguised. ing as well as smart, but also it has a sug­ turn back the center front of the pattern to As an example of the possibilities in de­ gestion of utility that emphasizes its make provision for the vest effect. Cut the signing, note the dress shown at the right. virtues. sleeves with the aid of a bell-sleeve pattern, A brown-satin dress made very plain in Because of the popularity of this com­ and if the lower part of this pattern seems overblouse or short redingote effect with bination, a point that should receive special too wide, remove some of the width by long, loose sleeves showed decided wear consideration in the planning of a dress of laying in small darts from the lower edge . through the shoulders and upper part of bltte serge and black satin is the selection Straight lengths of material, with or the sleeves, although the remainder of the of a design that is unusual or the applica­ without seams at the center side, depending dress appeared only slightly soiled. A tion of touches to disguise a style that on the size of the pieces that must be em­ thorough cleaning renovated the unworn might otherwise be duplicated many times. ployed, will prove suitable for the skirt if portions of satin, and the worn parts of the An example of a simple style that depends the dress is intended for an average figure. waist were replaced with a very soft silk almost wholly upon its trimming for dis­ But if it is being made for a person that is having a deep tan background with figures tinctiveness is shown in the model at the large through the hips, the use of a plain that shaded into brown. The drop-shoulder left. The main part of the dress is of skirt pattern that is slightly gored and has effect was introduced as a means of en­ serge, but because of the front panel and provision made for a little fulness through tirely changing the blouse without discard­ vest and the sleeve trimming bands of the waist and hip sections is advisable . ing the lower sleeve portions, and sections satin, almost any serge frock of rather Mark the panel on the pattern so that its cut from the lower portions of the waist plain and even scant design may be used to full width will be about 15 inches at the were used to form a sort of connection advantage in its development. lower edge and it will taper a trifle toward between the waist and skirt of the new Heavy black silk floss embroidery with a the waist line. design. Then, as a means of lengthening touch of metallic thread forms a very For the vest, provide two lengthwise the skirt portion of the overblouse, a deep pleasing border effect on the sleeve trim­ strips of satin about 4½ inches wide and of band of the contrasting material was ap­ ming bands, the panel , and the vest edges. a length that will prove becoming. Finish plied . Trimming of bound buttonholes and The satin vest is parted toward the waist the center front and upper and lower edges satin-covered buttons and a collar of ecru line to expose a vestee of very soft white with a bias binding of self -material that net completed a very attractive and strictly silk, and the same silk is further evidenced will be, when finished, about ! inch wide. up-to-date costume.

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Fall Millinery Features

pERHAPS one of the most interesting By MARY MAHON side back a soft flowing artist's tie bow turns in millinery this season is the Department of Millinery with loose ends hanging quite long. This elaborate use of ostrich, which, after a bow was made of No. 60 satin ribbon. period of comparative neglect, promises to are placed upstanding quite like in an old Such a combination of satin and velvet be a tremendous feature and bids well to portrait effect, which, although centuries ribbon gives a decidedly unusual touch. remain throughout the winter. A change old, is ever new ia beauty. However, 'in Cire ril>bon in black and negre brown of trimming and embellishments is re­ general, the whole tendency is towar d the is also employed in combination with th e freshing to style, and since our laws pro­ drooping effect in ostrich trimmin g. brocades for draping purposes. Th ese hibit the wearing of aigrettes and we do pretty, soft-draped hats are popular at not relish the constant use of imitation RIBBON is the next impor- present and the cire ribbon, because aigrettes very readil y, our next" resort is tant featur e in today's mil­ of its subtl e softness, works well int o ostrich. So, after a careful survey of the lin ery, and it certainly grace ful folds without adding weight new hats, it is quite evident that it is the is put to odd uses. It to the hat. Also, as it has a close re­ feather plus unique treatment that lends seems quite certain semblance to leath er, cire can be u seleather hat is minute style touch. ~ a little roll ed-b rim shape that is wide at the sides and de- FROM the small, flat palm- ~ veloped in mocha tinted with sized tip to the unb eliev­ dull gold. The leather is ably long plumes produced worked with the thread to give throu gh the artificer's skill, the appearance of scales. A ostrich feathers are used on handbag of the same material large and small hats. They is decidedly unique. droop over the edge of the A brown Chantilly lace veil brim or entirely cover the hat, is very effective over a me­ and sometimes they hang down dium-size hat when it is drawn close to the right should er. to the ri ght side and allowed This side-hanging trim is very to drop gracefully off the brim. pretty on small hats; not, how- ever, on the very close, severe AS FAR as shapes go, it would seem that hats, which have the disadvan- f!.S. · the important point is width from side tage of hardening the lines of '-----­ to side. This silhouette continues in favor, the face and aging the wear er, but on hats smart models are made entirely of mar­ and in some cases the wide side lin e is ac­ with narrow brims that lend themselv es to velous gold-brocaded ribbon, and velvet centuated by trimming poked out beyond the newest trimming notes. ribbon embroidered in elaborate desi gns is the brim edge. At present, no matter how small the hat used for draping small turbans and, in Generosity in line is mentioned as one of may be, there must be some brim evident many instances, for covering large-brimmed the features in shapes for fall. But as the in order to obtain the new effect, and thi.:, hats. In fact, ribbon of every width is season advances and the large fur collars suggestion of brim is gladly welcomed, for used, from the narrowe st baby velvet rib­ are worn, the large hat will be confined to it is-·quite adaptable to the ostrich trim. hon to the very widest , more stress being evening wear. Then will come in evidence A modish way in which to pose the laid on the wide-width ribbons. the softly draped tam effects deftly caught ostrich on such hats is to arrange it so that One effective Fr ench model recently seen into a wonderful web of stitchery done in the curled tip falls downwards. Yet, in was a basket-woven shape made of the many colors bright enough to make the trimming large ha~s, many of the plumes tiniest velvet ribb on and having at the left dullest wintry day appear warm and festive. Our First Fashion Service

DURING the past month the Institute has This Fashion Service, illu stratin g sev­ This book, which will be issued in the been engaged in preparing for its full­ enty-five variations of the season's best future every fall and spring, is only another paid and active dressmaking students a fashions and advanced styles in dresses , step forward in th e service the Institut e is Fashion Service for the fall and winter suits, coats, and wraps for all types of constantly extending to it s student body. season of 1920-21. women, comes with definite . information as Our plans are to have the entire edition For a long time, it has been Mrs. Picken's to the construction of each ga rment. Such mailed by October 1. So if your account desire to provide a Fa shion Service with a book will bring happiness to every stu­ with us is in good standing, watc h out for instruction especially for our students. dent entitled to receive it. In addition, it this Service, for it will prove a great help Only recently was it possible for us to un­ is an excellent example of the printing and in plannin g your clothes for th e coming dertake so tremendous a task. engraving art. season.

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Salads in Abundance

WHILE we usually connect salads with By LAURA MAcFARLANE QF ALL the vegetables that this season the springtime of the year, it seems a Editorial Department offers, none is so versatile in the mak­ little strange to do so when we consider ing of salads as the tomato. It makes a the wealth of material that the early fall most appetizing salad when merely cut such as sweet pickles, olives, celery, a nas­ season offers. Practically every country from the center in sections that are al­ turtium leaf or flower; a material of con­ home has a garden of its own. which is lowed to fall part way open on a bed of trasting color, as, hard-cooked egg, beet, yielding to the limit just now, and in the crisp lettuce leaves. Any of the dressings tomato, pimiento, green or red pepper; towns and cities fresh fruits and vegetables mentioned may be served on it in this form . radishes, plain or cut to resemble roses; a are to be had in great abundance in the Whole tomatoes and a few uncut string delicate material of some kind, as a tiny markets. So, instead of trying to use these beans are sometimes combined in a salad. heart of lettuce or a tip of celery. Stuffed just as vegetables or as fruit in all of Tomatoes also form an important part of a olives provide a good color contrast, and your meals, why not combine some of them combination salad in which the other vege­ these are often sliced. Another attractive into attractive salads? tables may be sliced onions, sliced cucum­ olive garnish is formed by paring an olive bers, sliced peppers, and asparagus tips. round and round the stone and thus pro­ Again, tomatoes are often used as recep­ SALAD ingredients usually consist of the ducing a curl or spiral. food itself, such as fruit, vegetables, meat, tacles in which a salad mixture is placed. fish, etc.; salad greens, such as lettuce, Select medium-sized, well-ripened tomatoes chicory, watercress, etc.; salad dressings, THERE are a number of salad dressings for such a salad, and hollow out some of the which improve the flavor of the salad; and from which to choose. The personal center so as to form shells. Fill these with salad garnishes, which are intended chiefly preference of those to be served largely any desired combination of vegetables or to appeal to the eye. Usually, there is a regulates the choice, but the variety of the with a fish salad, such as crab meat, which salad accompaniment, too, such as wafers salad has much to do with it. French should first be marinated, that is, mixed of some kind, cheese sticks, and small dressing, which is used for the marinating with French dressing or merely seasoned dainty sandwiches. of salads and as a dressing by itself, con­ vinegar. Serve with mayonnaise as indi­ sists of 3 parts oil to 1 part vinegar and is vidual salads or place several of the stuffed seasoned with salt, pepper, paprika, and tomatoes on a salad dish and serve at the SOFAR as the salad greens are con- mustard. Mayonnaise dressing is preferred table, adding the dressing here. This cerned, they should be as fresh and for meat and fish salads. Boiled salad makes an excellent salad to serve with crisp as it is possible to have them. Allow dressing finds favor with those who do not sandwiches or cheese sticks at an early fall them to stand in the water 15 to 20 min­ care for oil. luncheon or a Sunday night supper. utes. Then, lay the pieces on a dry towel, cup side down, so that they will drip, roll MAYONNAISE DRESSING CUCUMBERS also lend themselves ad- up the towel, and set in the ice box. Any ~ 2 egg yolks mirably to the preparation of salads. leaves that are broken should not, of tsp, salt t tsp. pepper I! c. oil Every one is familiar with the small boat course, be discarded, for if they are in good t tsp. mustard 4 Tb. vinegar or lemon juice or hollowed out cucumber which makes a condition, they can be shredded, that is, Mix the dry ingredients in a bowl and shell for a salad mixture consisting of rolled up tight and then cut into narrow add the egg yolks to them. Beat with a diced tomatoes, celery, and cucumber. If strips or shreds with a sharp knife. rotary egg beater until well mixed. Add a a little variety in cucumber salad is desired, few drops of oil and beat. Add a drop of make cups of a different form by cutting JNPREPARING fruit for salad, have the the vinegar or lemon juice, a few more cucumbers in half crosswise without peel­ pieces equal in size, similar in shape, drops of oil, and beat constantly. Gradu­ ing them and removing a slice from each and not too small. Oranges and grapefruit ally increase the quantity of oil added each end to make the receptacle stand evenly. are used so frequently for salads that every time. Continue until all the oil and vine­ Then with a small knife, remove the green one should understand their proper prepara­ gar are used up, when the mixture will be rind in alternate strips until a green-and­ tion. Peel these just like an apple, cutting thick and lemon-colored. white striped cylindrical cup is formed. the p.eeling deeply enough to remove the This may be hollowed out and then filled skin from the sections; then, with a sharp BOILED DRESSING with any appropriate salad. A good color knife, cut out the contents of each section, 2 Tb. butter I tsp. mustard 2Tb. flour I c.milk scheme results when salmon salad is placed passing the knife as closely to the skin as I tsp. salt 2eggs in such cups. The cucumber cups should pos-!i\lJle. They may be used in sections or 2 tsp. sugar ! c. vinegar not, of course, be eaten. cut up into pieces of any desired size. In Melt the butter in the inner pan of a the case of bananas, do not forget to scrape double boiler, add the flour, salt, sugar, FRUIT salad continues to hold its own in off the pithy surface, as this is disagreeable mustard, and milk. Cook over the flame this season of the year as well as in all in a salad. until thick. Beat the eggs, and stir in the others, for it cannot be exceeded in both Nuts for salad should be chopped or cut, vinegar, beating rapidly. Add the white appearance and flavor. Then, too, it offers never ground, and they should be added to sauce, return to the large pan of the double so many possibilities both as to combina­ the salad just before it is served, as they boiler, and allow to cook until the eggs tion and decoration that one resorts to it have a tendency to darken the dressing and have thickened. Cool and serve. again and again. Any of the dressings discolor an otherwise attractive salad. already given may be used on fruit salads or a sweet dressing may be made from SALAD garnishes, while npt a necessity, fruit juices, such as pineapple , pear, form a very interesting part of this orange, and lemon, sweetened a trifle, and dish, for they give salads their psycho- , thickened by means of eggs. This is logical appeal, as important allowed to cook in a double a point as the nutritive boiler until it becomes thick. aspect of food preparation. .i·=- · ~., ~~~.'v:- ·. If a good combination Garnishes may con­ --~ - ; ), \ fruit salad is desired, sist of some highly .· --- · / C,. grapefruit, oranges, flavored mater i a 1,_a 0 - '<..--0- ,;- . cf8c1 bananas, apples, and

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC pin eapple may be used, but any one or a prett y fancy to serve fruit salad in halv es cann ed or fr esh, hollow sid e up, on a bed more of th ese fruits may be omitted if th ey of small cant aloups. Balls of the canta­ of lettuce and garnish with thick salad cannot be had. Cut the fruit into pieces loup cut with a Fr ench cutt er form a very dr essing, over which arran ge several strips the desir ed size, put together just before good garni sh for such a salad. Or, if ·de­ of pimiento . Halv es of En glish walnut servin g, and add the sal ad dr essing. Serve sired, an entire cantal oup · salad can be meats als o make an effectiv e garni sh. If a on lettu ce leave s and garni sh with a few had by placing pieces of th e cantal oup salad having more food value is desired, finely chopped nuts and mara schino cher­ pulp cut in any pr eferred form on lettu ce or add a ball of cottag e or cr eam cheese to ries . A very attractive fruit salad can be romain e and serving with a sweet sal ad either pear s or peaches. had by arranging section s of grap efruit, dr essing. With salad s, pr obably mor e than with oran ge, and canned pea ches symmetrically In a group of salads of all kind s seen a oth er dishes, the housewife has a chance to b n lettu ce or romaine and garnishing it short tim e ago, the pear salad eas ily won expr ess her ori ginality, for often th e most with a few red ra spberries. first place because of its arti stic effect. To arti stic sal ads result wh en she foll ows her When cant aloups are at th eir best, it is make thi s salad , pla ce half of a pear, own ideas rath er than definite recipes. Woinan's Institute Question-Box

A Dress bust line. You may find it advisable, in­ If other W oman' s Institute student s stead of makin g the vest entir ely of self­ would like to get in touch with th e inquir­ for mat erial, to arrange surplice folds of th e ing stud ents, we shall be glad to supply the dark mat erial in the lower part of th e addr esses. Mother opening and similar folds of cr eam-c olored net or chiffon for the upp er part of the vest. Some tim e ago wh en I Give very special attenti on to the waist­ School Clothes wa s a beg in­ line finish. Make this quit e loose and low ne r in d ress ­ so th at the dress will fall comparatively V acation tim e w as such a bu sy season for me makin g a nd th at I seeme d un ab le to find opportunit y to make had littl e con­ straight and not app ear pin ched in at th e a new supply of school cloth es for my littl e fidence in my waist line nor unfavorably emphasize th e daugh ter . No w necess ity demand s th at I take a bility, you large bust. tim e for this work. Will you pl eas e giv e me a helped m e few su gge stio ns as t o pr actic a l materi als a nd new with th e se­ meth ods of trim ming ? A . C. lecti on of a style for a Want to Get Acquainted? The ever-favor ed and very practical blµe s imp le d ress. serge is worthy of the first con sideration I kn ow tha t The followin g Institut e stud ents desire to for school clothe s. This year its principal you wi ll be trimming is wool embroid ery, sometimes p I ea s ed t o become acquaint ed with other In stitute stu­ hea r th at I dents residi ng in their localiti es: carried out in a bri ght color , red being wa s very su c­ H a ines City , Fl a ...... C. E . T. especially good, and other .tim es in a rather cess ful in my E a st Smit hfie ld, Pa ...... M. R. N . subdued or neutral tone , gray being quit e first att empt to Middlet own, Md ...... L. D . popular . make a dr ess W ashin gton, D . C ...... C. E . S. for my s e If. Challis was fav ored to a certain degr ee Sinc e th at ti me ire';id~~ ~ •c~ i~~-. ::: :: ::: :.".".".'.".".'.".'.".":.".".".".".":o."11.~: last year, but this season it pr omise5 to I h av e st udi ed Vir gin ia an d Nort h Carol ina ...... M. E. T . enjoy the very height of popularity , for all my ind ividu a l type very carefully, a nd now I am San Diego, Ca lif...... F. W . J. not a t all h es it ant ab out relyin g up on my own B rid geport, Conn ...... M. E . McF . the New York children 's shops are featur­ abili ty in the selecti on of desi gns for my self. ing it in a very deli ghtful way. Many of But my nex t problem is making cloth es for ~~~ ~~~· :,· a·t .:. ·: .·.: ·: .: ::::::::::::.·:: :::::.·.1:~: I a: the challis patt erns have a very dark back­ mother . Sh e has cons e nt ed to let this be entir ely Ce ntr ali a, W as h ...... •...... G. M. a Woman 's Institute dress; that is, I am to pur­ D anbury, Conn ...... M. E. N. ground with bri ght colored flowers or fig­ ch as e the mate ri al, sel ect the st yl e, a nd comp le te Charles Cit y, Io wa ...... E . B. A. ures, and th ey are trimmed with satin or t he makin g an d fitting wit h no h elp oth er th an Ha nnaford , N. Oak ...... J . B. grosgrain ribbon binding of a color to th at of my lesso ns and sugge sti on s y ou m ay gi ve E dmon ton, A lbert a, Cana da, an d me . So a gain I' m t ak in g a dv a nt age of your offe r Wareh am, Mass ...... J . E. B. match the figur e. For instance, black of assis ta nce a nd I'll app reci at e mo re th an I ca n Ma rtin's Ferry, Ohi o ...... M. R . challis with tin y bri ght red flowers has not t ell any help you ma y give me . M oth er is of J ack sonvill e, Fla ...... : ...... R. H. a ver age h eight but rather s tout , a nd with a very B. only a quaint charm but also a utility value full bu st. H er ha ir is gr a y and her compl exion I sh ould lik e to b ecome ac qu ainte d w ith a stu ­ of unusu al degree. clear, althou gh she has but little color. dent of th e Woma n's In sti tute ta ki ng the Mil­ F or the very young school girl, a woolen S. R. E. linery Cour se who r esid es in Baltim ore , Md . G. S. S. dress, unless it is of a kind that will permit Moth er problems are certainly int erest­ I sho uld lik e to b ecome acqu ain ted wi th oth er of frequ ent launderin g, is not quite so W oman 's I nsti tut e s tud ent s t ak ing the Compl ete satisfact ory as little frock s of gingham, ing ones for us, as we delight in seeing Dres smaki ng Cou rse who are abo ut t wen t y y ea rs mothers appr opri ately dr essed and th eir of age a nd live in Pat erson, N . J. M . V. chambray, kinderga rt en cloth, and similar charm s enhanc ed rather than conceal ed. I should li ke to corres pond w ith W om an' s In sti­ fabric s. Checked and plaid gingham This is an especially fav orabl e seas on for tute stud ent s between th e ages of 18 a nd 23 years . dr esses may rel y alm ost wholly upon un­ the w.Qman of generous proportions. Th e E. B. G. usual featur es in the cut or th e use of bias tendeii.~y for long lines with panels a lead­ I should like to correspond w it h some girl b e­ se If-material for trim- tween JS a nd 20 y ea rs of age , t a ki ng th e Wom an' s min g. The plain ma­ ing feature is evident in all fall showin gs. I nst itute Dre ssma kin g Cours e. F. B. Dark blu e, brown, gray , and black, whi ch, I should like to b ecome a cqu ai nt ed w ith some terials offer poss ibil­ as you know, ar e very desirable for th e st ud ent abo ut 17 or 18 yea rs of age, who is t ak ing ties for hand stout woman, r eceive very special a tt en­ th e Compl ete Dr essma ki ng Cour se . I. B. broid ery. I should li ke to become acqu aint ed w ith a young ti on. And materials are r eally luxuri ous in ma rried woma n t aking th e Dressma king an d th eir softn ess, being of ju st th e textur e and T ailorin g Cour se who liv es in the vicinity of quality th at are generally recommend ed a s Nil es, or South Bend, Mich . H. R. W. most suit able for advanc ed years and a well I should like to correspond with other students b etwee n th e a ges of 16 and 19 wh o are tak ing th e round ed-out figure. Dr essma king a nd T a il ori ng Cour se. E. G. For your mother, I sugges t that you se­ I shou ld like to corr espon d w ith a W oman 's lect very soft faille or satin in a dark, ri ch In stitut e stu den t, ta kin g the D ress makin g and shade of blue or br own and embr oider it in T ailorin g Cou rse , wh o i s 16 or 18 yea rs of age , an d livi ng in P ennsy lv an ia, or an y ot her st ate. self-col or silk floss with a touch of met allic P. M. B. thread. You may follow th e general lines I should lik e to go into partn ership with a firs t­ of the dr ess shown at th e upper left, but cla ss dr essma ker in one of th e Ca 1ifor nia Coast change any details th at you consid er will t own s, pref erabl y south ern or ce ntr al coast. I could furni sh a ll, or one-h alf, th e money n eces­ make th e style more becoming. Means of sa ry t o se t up the b us iness and wou ld put i n appar entl y decreasing th e size of the bust power machi nes. • J. A. T. are afford ed by the vest and the collar , I should lik e to correspo nd wi th st udents, 17 which is extend ed to the waist line. Also, years of age, in Can ada or th e Un ite d Sta tes. the manner in which the collar is broad ened J.E. I sh ould lik e t o corr espon d w ith some one at the shoulders draws att enti on to width abo ut 20 yea rs old, t aking th e Comple te Dr ess mak - at this point and thus dir ects it from th e in g Course. R. B . C.

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Our Students' Own Page All the Hats She Wants does she know about millinery?" I soon Finds a New Source of Power showed them. Some woman said my show When Miss Catherine M. Harris, of wind ow was prettier than those of millin ers Not the least important effect of suc­ Escanaba, Michigan, says in the accom­ who had been in business for years. Some cessfully pursuing a course of study with said : "She bought her hats all ready panying lett er that it seems like a dream to trimmed; she never could do that work." the Institute is the new sense of power one have all the hats she wants, we believe she But I kept right on-had fine success that feels through one's newly acquired accom­ is expressing the feeling of most women. spring, better in the fall, and have been plishment. For many of our members, the But when, like Miss Harris, one can make growing all the time. I go away every completion of one Course only opens their season. This fall I went fo New York, one's hats at a saving of thr ee-fourt hs of and so I have been very busy. I also use eyes to the wonderful possibilities for self­ their cost in the stores, it is entirely pos­ the customers' old mat erial and make new improvement that are tied up in their littl e sible to make that dream come true. Miss hats for them out of it. odds and ends of time, and they quickly Harris writes : I would like you to see a turban I made follow with the second and third Courses. today. It is a real feath er turban. I think This thought was very aptly brought out in Since I took up Millinery, I have made you would say I did well. I am so proud three hats and they are, if I may say, very of my lessons that hundreds of dollars the following letter we received recently becoming. Next week I intend to make two would not buy them. They are still my from Mrs. G. E. Russ ell, of 191 Park Ave ., more. It seems like a dream to have all the hats you want, and besides I already guide in millinery, and I refer to them Arlington, Massachusetts: have orders to make some hats for my very often. I find the colors and color I never shall be thankful enough that I fri ends , among them a wedding hat. combinations a great help to me. --started my Course in Professional Dress­ And I wish to say that I agree with the making. As each new lesson comes, I am pers on who said, "The Course is worth more delighted, and as I am nearing an more than th e money." You can never Offered Fine Position Be/ ore end, I feel such a sen se of power and inde­ kn ow too much about such things as Mil­ pend ence, as well as ambition (for I shall linery, Dressmaking, and Cookin g. Finishing Course not stop studying) . I shall never cease being grateful to Mrs. Picken for all that We received a very nice letter a short she has done for me, nor shall I cease time ago from Mrs. Paul R. Heinrich, of tellin g others about her and her work. Where the Money is Coming Galveston, Texas, that reflects a great deal From of credit on the fine work she is doing. Mrs. Heinrich writes: Saved $53 on One Garment That is the problem which seems to have I feel that I have done exceptionally well That it is easily poss ible to save the cost puzzled many of our members when they with my Millinery Course, and durin g the join ed the Institute; but after a few les sons months of November and December I made of a Course in one season is prov ed by this problem usually solves itself. The twenty -five hat s. Each one I mad e seemed hundreds of. lett ers we receive. Here is experience of Mrs. 0. C. Mart eney, of prettier than the one before. one from Louise G. Zonner, of 31 Mulberry Buckhannon, West Virginia, whose letter Alth ough I have not finished my Course, Street, Buffalo, N. Y., who save d almost one of the leading millinery shops her e the entire cost of her Course on a single ,we ~!'!,. quoting here, illu strates how easily offered IJle a splendid position as milliner, the mon ey problem can be solved: but at the time I was unable to accept it. ·garment: . I find your Course of studies very inter­ This spring I made a Pekinese-blue wool esting and helpful. I sewed some before velour dolman wrap for myself. The ma­ taking the Course in home dr essmak ing. Cooking Student Takes Prizes terial, including lining, buttons, etc., cost Every one I sew for seems to notice I am $32. When I priced one similar to mine, doing better work. I am much inter ested at County Fair they wanted $85 for it. Can you imagine in sewing and have sewed to make all pay­ how proud I was? It would take pa·ges to ments, and more than average eight to ten Th e practical value of our training in tell all the things I have made. dollars a week and do the housework for · cooke ry is being especially appreciated just my home. at this season when the prices of fruits and vegetables and the sugar to put them Learns a Business at Forty-Nine up are so high. Fortunate, indeed, is the woman who cari do her canning and pre­ The theory that one cannot learn after serving with the supreme confidence that passing a certain age has been exploded when she opens it n·ext winter it will be as long ago. And it has been disproved by fresh and sweet as the day she put it away . th~ experience of hundreds of our members You'll be interest ed in reading the follow­ who, well along in life, have proved that ing letter from Mrs. G. U. Healy, of Min­ they can learn, and learn easily . The fol­ eral Point, Wisc onsin : lowing letter from Mrs. Alice M. Hall, one I have surely enjoyed the se last two les­ _of our members from up in Maine, shows sons on canning, preserving, etc., and what a womati ih middle life can do, for found them of great value. I have a large assortment of fruits, jell y, and pickles for Mrs. Hall was forty-nine when she joined winter, and I did them from the directions the Institute. We'll let her tell her ex­ in my lessons. I hav e had very few peri t nce in her owri words : failures. I was very anxi ous to see what I could Perhaps you would be interest ed in do, and a year ago la st spring I went to knowing that I had first premium on Boston and got a stock of millinery and · sponge cake, currant jelly, and mix ed can­ turned my parlor into a millinery store. dies at the fair here last fall, and I could People were quite astonish ed when I came not make the sponge cake or jelly before home with my hats . They said: "What studying the se lesso ns.

SPECIAL NOTICE: F or full information regardin g Cours es in Sewing, Dr ess­ makin g, Tail oring, Millinery, and Foods and Cookery as tau ght by the Woman's Institut e, addr ess all requests to th e WOMAN'S INSTITUTE OF DOMESTIC ARTS AND SCIENCES, Inc. DEPT. 21, SCRANTON, PA .

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC ashion Service SUPPLEMENT

Each Issue of Vintage Notions Monthly includes a Fashion Service Supplement. You will read about the fashion styles popular in the early twentieth century and receive a collectible fashion illustration to print and frame.

The students of the Woman’s Institute would also receive a publication called Fashion Service. Where the Inspiration newsletter instructed them on all aspects of the domestic arts, not only sewing but also cooking, housekeeping, decorating, etc., Fashion Service was devoted entirely to giving current fashions with a key to their development.

Fashion Service prided itself on providing it’s readers with reliable style information and the newest fashion forecasting. The publication wasn’t just eye candy. The Institute stressed the importance of studying the fashions to benefit the sewer’s understanding of dressmaking. To quote founder Mary Brooks Picken, “Once the principles of design...and of construction… are understood, beautiful garments will result. This publication comes to you as an aid to this desired goal. Read the text of every page and reason out the why of every illustration and description that your comprehension of designing and construction may be enlarged and your appreciation made more acute.”

Today, these articles and illustrations give us a historically accurate view of what fashion really meant 100 years ago. Not only can we study these articles for an “of-the-time” style snapshot, but just as their students did, we can also learn to understand the principles of design and increase our sewing skills. In each issue, look for a collectible illustration in the back of the supplement! Down from the mountains, in from the fields and woods , we come, making our seasonal pilgrimage to Fashion's throne. New York! Fifth Avenue! The fashion shows! The radiant windows! Then behind the scenes into the studios of the great designers. And we come-for what? To learn what Fashion , here enthroned, decrees shall be the colors and the lines of dre ss for the impending season. "Brown it shall be," we hear. "All the browns from the yellowish brown to the deeper, warmer tones. And red shall add its touch of brightness here and there, and there shall be glints of gold and silver." And we stand a little in awe to think that out of mysterious studios tucked away in the teemingly busy buildings of a great hurrying city come these words of wisdom prophesying how milady shall deck herself for the Autumn promenade. It is awe of the genius of creative art. But let one wiser speak than all the rest. "You have come from the woods and the fields and the streams. Go back to them and you will find that whence you have come, there we have been to seek and choose the glories of your dress. The browns are of the spent and quiet fields that bore the Summer harvests, of the fluttering, falling leaves, with their glints of gold and flashes of red. The 'brick dust,' seeming new, is of the peaceful homes, gem-set among your smiling hills. "Go back if you would find the source of all that Fashion decrees , and you will find it on Nature's own great canvas. "In spring, she picks her colors from the nodding, wind-blown daffodil, from the budding, tender leaves of green, from all the pastel shades that lie on the petals of the first flowers. "In autumn, from the brown and golden foliage and from the flushed red cheeks of ripened .fruits. "And so she will go on finding her inspiration always in the far-flung panorama of Nature herself, drawing each season a new and exquisite melody from the infinite tones of God's great instrument."

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC ffe!_,ENthe curtain of style expectancy parted to reveal Fa shion's newe t triumph in dr ess crea tion, among the first models to appear wa one that might have been inspired by anticipated beauties of very early fall. As shown at the lower right , the coloring of its waist port ion, orange crepe Roma with all-over gold embroidery in delicate vein work, and a touch of leaf green carried out in the sash and sleeve banding, give a mark ed sug­ gestion of frost-brightened foliage. The black velvet skirt and mink bandin g are in tribute to winter fashion prediction s. Ju st above is a fall dance frock of black satin, its close basque softened with an exquisite lace berth a and its very full skirt overlaid at the center front with coral-colored ribbon panels suspended from lovely flowers of the same color. Sufficiently versa tile in character to complete an afternoon costume or to enfold the luxuriou sness of an evening gown, the lovely wr ap, as illustrat ed, is of toast and Mand alay duvetyn, embroidered over the lower side portions in honeycomb effect and collared in brown wolf. Toa st color is also the selection of the Cant on crepe dre ss with plait ed panels, the panels on the skirt extending from triangul ar trimming motif s formed by interl aced strip s of self-material. Standing on Fa shion's thre shold, as if eagerly awaiting very formal mid­ winter function s, the striking model of black chiffon velvet with surplice bandin g of spotless ermine is truly a regal interpretation of the 19 22 draped mode.

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Coa-l ~r0ss

In some respects but little different from a model the under-arm line. Thi s change will necessitate remov­ that was introduced a number of seasons ago and yet ing the basting of the under-arm seam below the waist with style details so decisively of 1922 influence that it line and repinning the seam. stands out as an entirely new design, the coat dress of the After this first fitting , stitch the under-arm dart, if hour is an altogether appealing type. this was provided, and finish the seams. And a very ambitious type the coat dress represents. Face the front upper corners of the dress to form the Sometimes it assumes a slightly draped prince sse effect revers portions; then make the double collar, stitch its with surplice wrap-around closing; other times it borrows under portion to the neck line of the dress, and press open from the Russian and appears with a low bloused waist the seam. Next, baste the inside edge of the revers fac­ line and a full-length side closing. Sometimes it chooses ings flat to the dress; then turn inside the free edge of the least expensive of the woolens as its fabric; and again the upper collar piece and baste it over the revers facings. it shows no hesitancy in adopting the very richest velvet. In the second fitting, pin the underlapping front waist But almost invariably serviceability is its dominant note. portion to a facing strip or piece of very soft belting that The model illustrated is of navy Poiret twill having may be hooked to a belting used across the back waist line. the front fashioned on princesse lines with a little of the After noting that the collar, revers, and sleeves appear length drawn up at the termination of the surplice closing correct, pin the free edge of the one-piece front under and stitched in flat plaits. The cascade drapery is cut the cascade effect. Also, pin a bias strip, cut about 4 in one with the back skirt portion and permitted to fall inches wide , across the back waist line, making this as over the side line of the one-piece front. An interesting a soft crushed girdle. feature is the manner in which the skirt material is drawn closely over the hips across the back in marked contrast Skirt Lengths.-After having completed the fitting of to the gathered effects that have been favored for so long. the dress, turn the hem at the lower edge. Black caracul edges the collar and sleeves, and just This is another season when there is much difference inside of the fur, Roman stripe ribbon contributes its of opinion expressed as to the matter of skirt lengths. It bright coloring to enliven the general effoct. A long, seems that the longer skirt sanctioned by Fashion for black-silk tassel is suspended from the side ornament. spring and summer received little general attention, even though it was adopted in Fashion centers. In these same Material and Pattern Requirements.-Provide 3¾ Fashion centers, even longer skirts than those predicted yards of material 54 inches wide, 1¼ yards of fur band­ last season are already being worn and are gradually being ing, and the same amount of ribbon. If you wish, you generally adopted; so it is certain that fall and winter may obtain a fabric trimming in imitation of caracul. modes all over the country will evidence considerably You may have difficulty in finding a pattern similar longer skirts. to this design, but if you obtain a surplice-closing, coat­ For general wear, an 8- or a 9-inch length, according dress style with one-piece back, you may cut the back to individual becomingness, may be adopted; for after­ portion at the waist line and form the skirt portion in noon dresses, a 6-inch length is better style; and for even­ developing the muslin model by using a straight length of ing gowns, ankle length is noted in many designs. material, letting one edge form the drapery. Finishing.-Complete the dress by first slip-stitching Construction and Fitting.-Ba ste the various sections of the collar to the revers portion and covering the raw the dress together, leaving edges of the collar across the left under-arm seam the back neck line and the open from the waist line 'I urbans Feature Vizor "Brims raw edges of the revers to the lower edge. facings with a facing. Shape s, particularly thos e of the turban variety, show a In fitting the dress, strong inc linati on toward the modified v izor brim. Sometim es, th e Then face the fur strips observe the usual points vi zor effec t is gain ed by a crush of th e material, and ag ain by a and slip-stitch these, as bulgy rid ge in th e frame . · that 1must be considered In Model 1, the narrow vi zor is round ed out in stea d of well as the ribbon, to the and then draw up the ful­ de fin ed, th e mann er in whi ch th e material is a ppli ed accom­ collar and sleeves. Also, pli shing thi s feat. A ta m fr ame, shaped ve r y low at th e r ight slip-stitch the back girdle ness at the side and pin side and high on th e left side, is u sed for th e found ation. N avy in the plaits as illustrated . Lyons ve lv et, a ya rd s long and shi rr ed in r ow s along th e length portion to the dress. Have If the dress shows any of the material, th e rows of shi rrin g being run 1 inch apa rt, is the edge of the cascade draped ove r th e fo un da ti on fr ame. Beg in n ing at the r igh t side, tendency to fall to the the ma te ri a l is lai d easy ar ound th e fram e, d rawn int o th e h ead• drapery picoted so that front, lift it at the right­ si ze, a nd th en sha pe d in soft fold s so as n ot t o defin e the outli ne the finish will not be of th e fr ame, but to pr oduc e a cup effect a t th e cent er t op. side waist line and pin A va ri eg ated ost rich f anc y, repea ting the colors of the Roman heavy, and tack the under­ a dart in the front por­ stri pe d r ibb on tha t tr ims th e dr ess , is att ached a t the right sid e. lapping skirt edge ju st tion, extending this from back of the cascade.

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC /

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Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC 7Jarza-lz·ons o/ C'oa-1:Dress Model I A .-A lovelier and more serviceable afternoon Model /C.-Plaid novelt y woolen of homespun weave, costume than this model would be difficult to find, for its although an inexpensive material , adds a great deal of material , color , trimming, and design are all of versatile interest to this one-piece coat dr ess. The predominating char acter, being sufficiently conservative for str eet wear .color of the fabric is Royal blue, one of the bright tones and yet lovely enough to grace an afternoon function. that seem very promi sing for fall. This color is subdu ed Velvet in Mandalay brown, which is a rather deep a trifle by the plaid , which is carried out in gray, but tone , provides a harmonizing backgro und for the fur that appear s without modification in the plain material of edges the full-length side-front closing, the bateau neck wh ich the skirt trimming band, the narro w sash, the line , and the sleeves. The embroidery on the sleeves is of covered button s and bound buttonhole s, and the sleeve wool, being in soft tones of green, gold, and blue, colors facings are made . that are repeated in the ornament at the side-front waist Darts at the front armhole and several inches below line. A sash of the velvet extends from underne ath this the waist line make possible a straight line at the lower orname nt across the back waist line and at the right side edge, a point of merit when plaid is being used. They is formed into a loop and th e long end th at is left hanging also permit a means of fitting a well-rounded figure , but is finished with a tassel. for such a type, plain material should be substitut ed for Average material requirements for this design include the plaid; otherwise, the design with its long lines is very about 4 yar ds of velvet, 3 ¾ yards of narrow fur banding, good for a generously proportioned person. and 4 small skeins of yarn. As illustrated , the collar is cut on the bias and a bias A point to keep in mind when working with velvet strip is used for trimming the sleeves. is that the various portions of the dress must be cut so For the avera ge figure , provide 3 yards or more of that the nap runs in the same direction in all, for two material 54-inches wide, the amount dependin g on the sections having the nap running in opposite directions will size of the plaid , as allowance must ' be made for the match­ appear as two distinct tone s, the deep shading of the velvet ing of the plaid s. Of plain material 54 inches wide, ¾ causing this. Opinions differ as to whether the nap yard will be sufficient. should run up or down in the finished garment. Velvet appears richer and with greater depth of coloring when Model I D.-Bonfire red , a color that is delightful the nap runs up; also, it · does not become flattened so in contrast with dark hair and eyes, is used un stintedl y in quickly across the back skirt portion when it is cut in this this Canton crepe model. And no attempt is made to pro­ mann er. Chiffon velvet or any velvet that is pressed vide a subduing influence , even in the braid trimming, for should be cut the same as broadcloth , that is, with the this evidences a dominating note of matching red with a nap running down. bit of green and gold combined for effective contrast. This coat dre ss is in two-piece bloused effect, which Model I B .-Pro viding tucks m abundance is one of sets it definitel y apart from the general run of coat-dress Fashion's ways of adding smartness to a costume this styles. season. In this model they cover the entire skirt portion, Novelty is especially evident in the sleeves and collar, which is att ached at the hip line to a surplice waist having the sleeves being of kimono cut and very wide and baggy decidedl y tailored tendencies. at the under arm, and the collar applied to a bro ad neck The advantage of the hip-line seam is that it permits a line in upstanding effect, a bit trying for some types, it straight section and an even hem line in the skirt, even must be admitted , but very chic and charming for the though the side closing is laid in plaits near the waist youthful person having well-rounded , but not decidedly line. Then , too, this seam appears as a pin tuck and plump, features. therefore does not mar the design in the least. The pockets, one of which is merely simulated , are A novel cut characterizes the sleeve, which is of a in stand fashion, and by their arrangement provide an type that promises to become very popular. This is effect that balances well with the side closing trimmed close fitting at the armhole, but gives evidence of a flare with double rows of braid. from the elbow to within about 3 inches of the wrist, Material requirements for the average figure include where enough of the width is taken out to make the wrist about 4 yards 40 inches wide and 7 yards of braid. edge close-fitting. The little cuff effect thus formed is In cutting the blouse portion from material 40 inches decorated with pin tucks to carry out the skirt trimming, wide, it will be necessary to suppl y piecings for the sleeve and small self-covered buttons are sewed over the seam portions , which may be applied so as to give the effect line that joins the cuff edges at the back. Larger self­ of a very deep drop-shoulder line, as shown. If the style covered buttons and braid loops provide a· means of fasten­ is being cut from 54-inch material, however, the entire ing at the waist-line closing. blouse portion, including the sleeves, may be cut in one Broadcloth in tiffin, which is a dark shade of toast, is piece. Only the very softest woolens and those lightest the material of which the frock is developed , 3 yards of in weight are suitable for a design that has as much fulness this material being required for the average figure. at the underarm as this.

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1a Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Sira/ghi-Llne :Dress

A certain indication of popular approval attends front and back panels, pin-tuck the material, being very Fashion's sanctioning of one type of costume s.':ason after careful to space the tucks accurately and to make them as season, for just as surely as Fashion introduces any design tin y and even in width as possible. Tuck only as much that is not generally becoming and does not combine with material as is needed for the panels, leaving an untucked the comfort-giving qualities that are consistent with space at each side for a finish at the outer edge. In modern ideas, the style is doomed to short duration. cutting, allow merely a wide seam at the bottom. Variously known as the one-piece or, in its simpler In preparation for the first fitting, merely baste the form, the chemise type, the stra ight-line dress is one that under-arm seams and then baste the side skirt sections to has withstood the test of popular favor and comes to us the sleeve and side body portions , provided they have been again this season, unch anged in its general style but with cut separately, and the panels to the side portions. details so new and charmi ng that, on first appearance, it In the first fitting, observe the manner in which the might pass as a decided change in design. dress hangs, and decide whether the effect could be Not an ordinary note can be found in this straight-line improved by a slight alteration in the width of the panels model of navy Poiret twill.. The broad kimono sle~ves or in the bagginess at the under arm. Do not make the and the pointed side skirt sections are perhaps the newest mistake of fitting closely, however, for this might detract features in the cut, and the se, being embroidered in all­ from the style value without adding to the becomingness over lattice effect with gray wool and ornamented with of the design. applique motifs of duvet yn, are pleasingly emphasized. After stitching and pressing open the under-arm stams, But the wide front and back panels receive a generous join the separate skirt sections, if they have been provided , bit of attention, also, for these are pin-tucked in close by adjusting any fulness they may have over the waist rows, a treatment that is almost certain to become one line of the sleeve and side body portion, stitching them of the most popular of the season. together and covering the raw edge with a narrow bias To the person of average or generous proportions, this facing of self-material. Join the panels by turning under model would lend becoming lines, but it would serve only the edge and stitching them flat to the side sections, just to accentuate the height and slenderness of the tall, angular inside of the turned edge so as to simulate a pin tuck. type. With a fitted armhole and the embroidery omitted, Make the belt double so that it is about I inch wide the design would be suitable for the stout woman. when finished and long enough to confine the dress but slightly at a low waist line. Material and Pattern Requirements.-Provide about At this stage, try on the dress, observe whether the 3 yards of material 54 inches wide for making this dress sleeve and neck lines are correct, pin the ends of the belt for the average figure. For the applique motifs, about to the buckle, and place this around the figure, adjusting ¼ yard of duvetyn will be needed and for the embroidery, the length as you desire. Then turn the lower ~dge of about 12 small skeins of floss. the skirt, keeping the line even across the front and back Use a one-piece pattern having kimono sleeves and full­ and shaping the pointed sides in an attractive manner. length front and back panels or, in developing a muslin model, mark the panel lines and provide for the pointed Finishing.-Apply the embroidery and the applique effect on the side sections motifs, following the of the skirt. In order to design illustrated or some avoid a seam through the Unusual Vi"versi"ty in Cushi"on Brims other plan of decoration. center of the pointed end, Finish the neck line A combination of black cire satin and si lver antique dev e loped the side skirt section might over a vizor•brim turb an frame makes this cushion-brim hat of with a narrow bias facing be mnde of a straight piece unusual distinction. and the sleeves with a For the pattern of the cushion brim , cut an oval-shaped head­ wide facing of self-mate­ and joined to the sleeve size in an oblong pi ece of paper 17 inches by 20 inches, the 20 and side body portion at inches indicating th e wid th from side to side. After this, measure rial or of material like that the waist line, rather th an off the width of the brim as described in Art. 4, Solid Fou11dations, used for the applique the back and front being 4½ inch es; the sides, 6¼ inches; and the cut in one with it. diagonal points, 5¼ inches . motifs. Also, face the It will be well to mark With this pattern cut one layer of satin, one of silver cloth, lower edge of the skirt, and t wo of crinoline. Machine stitc h th ese together around th e the embroidery design on outer edge, turn right side out, and steam the edge fiat . Next , using self-material or silk the muslin model so as to apply it to the frame with th e satin for th e facing and the silver of a matching color and cloth for the top brim, stitch sec ure to th e head -size, and attach gain an idea of its effect a balloon crown of the satin. To form the dented flare at the left shaping either a straight before applying it to the side, shape the front portion up toward the crown, in close across or a bias piece the same as the back , an d down at the right side. dress material. A flat loop of the satin, caught with a silver button to the the lower edge of the skirt, righ t side crown, serves as trimming and extends a trifle beyond making it broad at the side: Construction and Fit­ the brim edge. to include the pointed por­ ting.-Before cutting the tions.

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Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Model 2A.-One of the very commendable features Provide 3¾ yar ds of material 40 inches wide with of this straight-line model of navy twill is the simplicity 1 yard of contrasting color and 6 skeins of floss for the of its cut, and yet the design is not at all ordinary. average figure . An inserted front panel of rose duvetyn extending In developin g a sleeve of thi s kind, first cut a muslin hip depth into the skirt portion is partly responsible for model with the aid of a flared pattern and mark on this the individuality of the design, but most of the credit must the pointed outline. After the muslin is cut on the be given to the arrangeme nt of the black novelty braid. marked line , the separa te sections may be used for cutting Besides outlining the panel effect, it is applied at each the contra stin g material. Then , to provide a soft effect side front and side back in lines extending from the lower at the joining line of the two sections, first finish the edge of the skir t to 6 or 8 inches above the waist line; pointed edge of the upper sleeve with a fitted facing and also, it edges the sleeves and extends in double rows for then slip-stitch the lower sleeve portion close to this. 4 or 5 inches along the center. Black silk embroidery Make the skirt as a plain gathered model and supply covers the joining of the lower edge of the duvetyn to the a separate full-length front porti on for an apron effect, twill. The ends of the braid belt are clasped at the side edging this with the contrasting color. front with a novelt y buckle. Of material 54 inches wide, provide 2¾ yards for the Model 2D.-One way of drawing attention from an average figure with ¾ yard of duvetyn, 7¾ yards of braid , inexpensive woolen is to employ embroider y rather lavishly, and I skein of floss for trimming . as in this model , over much of the surface that would The pattern suggested for use in the cutting of this otherwise bear closest scrutiny. Not that such material model has a vest portion th at terminate s above the waist justifies the expenditure of tedious hours of labor, how­ line . Determine , by placing th e pattern over the figure, ever, for a heavy floss, such as stitchette or ribbonzine, how far you desire the contrasting material to extend into applied in a simple darnin g-stitch can be worked up very the skirt and then extend the pattern lines of the vest. effectively in ju st a short time . In this instance , navy twill is embroidered with black Model 2B.-Since matelasse is accorded such a prom­ ribbonzine over much of the front waist portions and over inent position among the season's fabrics, it seems but right the upper portion of the sleeves. The design, with its to let the design in which it is developed be subordinate narrow inserted front panel and applied side panels, would to it, as in this model having Java , a medium brown, prove suitable for a generou sly proportioned figure, if the matelasse as its principal fabric. The full-length side neck line were shaped for individual becomingness. closing, the lower edge of the skirt, and the neck are edged For the average figure, 3 yards of material 54 inches with Canton crepe of a matching color, and the sleeves wide and 6 skeins of floss are needed, with I yard of silk are trimmed with a band of the same material. The for facing the panels. braided girdle of the crepe, fastened with a fabric rose, gives a soft finish that detracts from the severity of the Model 2£.-Groups of pin tucks extending the full design. length of each under-arm seam, an applied skirt drapery , For a very serviceable and comparatively inexpensive and narrow collar and cuffs in scalloped outline overlying dress, this design suggests development in wool crepe with scalloped strips of duvetyn in contrasting color are the trimming of crepe de Chine of a harmonizing color. distinguishing features of this K asha cloth model. Material requirements for the average figure include Developed in navy with trimming of red , it would be 3¾ yards, 40 inches wide, with 1¾ yards for trimming, very lovely, or in a colorful tan with trimming of brick­ provided a piecing is made at the waist line. dust, perhaps a bit more unusual. Any of t~e soft woolen or heavy silk fabrics are suitable Model 2C.-A lower sleeve portion of contrasting for this design; also, in place of the duvetyn, crepe de color joined in rather eccentric fashion and straight strips Chine or Canton crepe might be used as trimming. of this same material applied to provide interest at the As a rule , 2¾ yards of material 54 inches wide is side of the skirt, which 1s the custom nowadays, may ample for a model such as this. For trimming, Ysyard of lend all the variety that 1s needed in a design, as this duvetyn is needed. model illustrates. You may cut the dress with the aid of a one-piece Canton crepe is the material employed, black as the pattern and in making it insert a triangular piece of major color and comet blue, which is a soft, medium tone, material to provide the cascade drapery at the left side. for the contrasting portions. Embroidery in black silk Cut this triangular section so that it measures about 14 floss follows a sketchy design on the contrasting color. inches along a crosswise edge and almost ¾ yard along a A model as simple as this is becomin g to the majority lengthwise edge, and insert the bias edge in the seam, of types, for it may be made as a one-piece or as a blouse tapering this to make it of the required skirt length. style, and besides, it is a very practical sort of costume Have the edges of the drapery , the collar and cuffs, as it might be worn on many different occasions. and their underl ying trimming pieces picoted.

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Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC ":Blouse!l.Jress

When one is of very slender build, the blouse dre ss equal in length to the hand measurement. For the side is the safest selection of style that can be made, for its skirt panels, cut strip s about 12 inches wide and round generous fulne ss and soft wa ist-lin e finish serve to conceal the lower corners as illustrated. lines that seem to follow an angular ra ther than a curved silhouette . Besides, blouse dr esses are usuall y char­ Construction and Fitting.-Turn and baste hems at the acteri zed by crosswise lines, wh ich tend to direct att enti on cent er back of the upper wa ist portion; th en baste the to apparent wi dth , in contrast wi th str aight-line dre sses sections of the wa ist together. Before stitchin g, take whose purp ose is to emphasize height . care of any fittin g th at may be necessary; then stitch the Blouse dr esses are generally of the two-piece var iety, wa ist sections together, first stitching the crosswise seams having the wais t and skirt cut separa tely and the blouse and then finishing them on the wrong side as narrow flat formed by means of a waist linin g cut shorter th an the fells secured with tiny hemming-stitches. Finish the outside portion and secured to it at a low, loose-fitting und er-arm edges in French seams. ,vaist line or by an elastic run th rough a waist-line casing, Next, join the upper and lower skirt portion s as sug­ a method th at permit s the wa ist line to be raised or gested for a similar joinin g in the blouse; th en stit ch the lower ed at will. In the case of the model illustrated, a side seams and press them open, finish the lower edge with waist-line casing, which permit s the dre ss to be slipped a tiny hem or bindin g, and gather the wa ist line. over the head, is essenti al, for the opening extends only In prepara tion for th e fitting, face the panels; also, part way down the center back. make the sleeve strap s and wris t band s double, as you This model gives an idea of th e hold of crepe on would a narrow belt. popular favor and of the distincti on it is possible to achieve In the fitting, first tie a tape around a low wais t line by using nothing other than self-material for trimmin g, to restrain the fuln ess of the wa ist, blouse the waist as for the enti re costume is of Canto ·n crepe, gray and black much as you desire, and adj ust the fulness properly. in combination. The seam that joins the two colors in Then pin the skirt to the wa ist, hanging thi s from the the kimono blouse is covered w ith flat rosettes formed of wa ist line if the length needs adjusting , and pin the panels narrow bias strips of material. A strap of the material in position. Also, pin the sleeve strap s in place. extend s from the abbreviated sleeve and is held in a rather wide but close-fittin g wris t band. The skirt has a wide Finishing.- Take out th e gatherin g in the skirt, keep­ band of th e gray edged wit h rosett es and is overlaid ing the pins adjus ted properly, sew the wa ist, skirt , and with narrow side panels. panels together flat, forming a casing, and run an elastic throu gh it, takin g care to make this long enough to give Material and Pattern R equirements.-For the average a loose effect at the wa ist line. figure, 3 yards of black crepe, I Ys yar ds of gray, and Face the neck and sleeve edges and finish the edges 1 yard of chiffon for facing the panels are needed. of the wrist band separa tely so th at they may be snapped Form a muslin model for the waist, cutting it w ith together. M ake the sash double so that it will be about the aid of a kimono wa ist patt ern , and with the muslin I inch wide when finished, and tack this merely at one model on the figure, mark a line for the joining of the under-arm seam. contrasting material s. Then cut the muslin on the Form the rosettes over circular pieces of mat erial marked line and use the sections thu s formed in cutting picoted or hemmed on the edges. Determine the size out the waist. M ake allowance for a center-back closing for these pieces by dividing the length of the seam in the upper porti on, but line over which they are cut the lower portion with to be applied by the num­ the center back on a fold. Style Tempered with Good Taste ber of medallion s you _ U se simply straight desire. Cut the bias strips The combining of black and gray in Model 3 is a true indica­ 1 length s for the skirt or tion that sty le is here tempered wit h good taste, becau se th e for th e rosettes about ,½ shape them with the aid of elegance of th e fabric, coupled with the simpli city of trimmi ng inches wide; then, fold­ and color ton e, produces an unusually lovely hat . a slightly full two-piece Th e medium-size, sof t-rollin g bri m, h aving a modifi ed point in ing the strip lengthwise pattern. Cut the skirt fron t and slas h ed at th e right side to give the tri corne eff ect , is through the center , start covered plain with black hatters' plus h and finished with a corded applying it around the band of contrasting mate­ edge. rial IO to 1 2 inches wide, The semi -bell crown has its top cov ered plain w ith the hatt ers' outer edge and work strips for the sleeve bands plush, and a bias strip of it is drap ed in soft fo lds for the sid e toward the center , letting crown and finished aro un d the top edge with a heavy cord . 5 or 6 inches wide and A fancy spray of meta lli zed burnt peacock, which is at tach ed the folded edge cover the long enough to loop in the to the base of the crow n at th e right side ove r the slash, is stitches used to secure the allowed to droop in a scint ill ating shower of varieg~t ed silv er manner illustrated , and tones that are pleasing in eff ect an d g ive the correct rhythm to preceding row. Atta ch pieces for the wrist band s the costume . the rosettes by merel y of this same width and tackin~ them in position.

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Model JA.-Slip-over model s have proved such a just the reverse arrangement is true on the right side, convenience and are so very practi cal that even many of the where the shorter portion is underneath. blouse dresses are cut in one-piece fashion and made with To develop the dress, as illustrated , for the averag e an elastic restraining the waist-line fulness or with separate figure, provide 5 ¾ yards of silk, I¼ yar ds of narro w fur waist and skir t portions joined in such a manner as to banding, I¾ yar ds of wider fur banding, and ¾ yard of form a casing for an elastic. Either plan of cutting is lace for the shallow yoke. permissible for thi s model, which has an opening at the center back just long enough to permit the dress to be Model 3D.-This Canton crepe model of Lanvin slipped over the head with ease. green, which is similar to reseda, relies on the newness Black Kasha is the material of which the dre ss is made , of its color for much of its distinction, and yet the design while the trimming is of bright blue. In parallel rows is one that evidences smartness in every detail. The waist of braid, this color is applied to the narrow , full-length is cut in surplice fashion and has kimono sleeves, w hich side panel, the sleeves, and the belt, and in motif effect are joined at the elbow to deep cuffs having a decided above and below the waist line at each side back. In flare. The front apron effect has fulness concentrated at embroidery, the color breaks the long lines of the waist the sides and seemingl y held by the ornaments used on and appear s again in the sleeY~, a Chinese design being the girdle, which is formed of corded shirrings. At the .carried out in couch-stitching. left side, the apron is extended and permitted to fall in Provide, for the average figure, about 2 ¼ yards of a cascade draper y, while at the right side it is extended 54-inch material, 5 skeins of floss, and 22 yar ds or more just beyond the side seam line of the skirt and finished of braid if thi s is to be applied in groups of five rows. with a straight edge. In the development of this model , about 5 yards of Model 3B.-Looking back over Fashion 's pages is material 40 inches wide and a piece of lace for the vestee, bound to impress one with the favor that has been accorded if this is desired, will be needed. blue-and- gray combinations, for hardl y a season has passed for several years without recognition of the possibilities of Model JE.-Trelaine, one of the aristocrats of the blue and gray. Fortunately, this season is no exception, family of knitted woolens, is very desira ble for model s such and so we have lovely soft-toned models, such as the one as this, which are not of intricate cut. Navy is the chosen shown here, to satisfy those who prefer them to the color, in this instance, with collar, vestee, lower sleeve brighter colors. portions, and trimming pieces on the waist of Canton Heav y silk crepe is the blue material employed, while crepe in a pure medium red, dignified thi s season by the gray crepe of lighter weight provides the narrow vest, name of salvia. the turn-over portion of the high collar, and the band at the The decorati on of the contrasting color is unu sual, lower edge. Novel tre atment is evident in the embroid­ consisting of embroidery in red floss worked around flat ery of blue silk floss, w hich extends over several rows of white bone and red wooden beads. Only one skirt panel silver stitching near the gray crepe. Small filigree buttons is deemed necessary, this being secured in line with the extend part way down the center front and along the trimming piece on the waist. back of the sleeve. In developing this model for the average figure, provide According to accounts of Parisian openings, this type 4 yards of material 40 inches wide with ¾ yard 40 inches a sleeve, tapering from a very broad armhole to a tight wide for trimming. wrist edge, is one that is especially worthy of note. Average materi al requirements include 3¾ yards of Model JF.-Crepe Roma, that sheer, lovely fabric, 40-inch material, ¼ yar d for trimmin g, 4 skeins of blue chooses tiffin, a bright but rather deep tan, as an excellent floss, and 6 small skeins of silver. color to use in combination with dark blonde lace in this design. No stinting is evident so far as the lace is con­ Model 3C.-Elegant simplicity seems to be just the cerned, for it is used to form an entir e under skirt as well right description for this model, in which brocaded silk as the blouse. crepe in a lovely gray verg ing on tan combines with mole The crepe Roma overskirt is in three pieces, a center­ banding for sleeve, neck-line, and waist-line adornment. back panel and slashed side sections that extend from the The use of fur as a girdle is very unu sual , but it cannot center front to the side back. All the edges of the over­ fail to please on a figure that is slender and youthful. skirt are finished with bindings of self-material. The Novelty of design is afforded by the sleeves, which yoke arrangement, also, is formed of stri ps of self-material fall in deep panel effect below the elbows, and side skirt interlaced at the shoulder; and wider strips of the material panels, which are looped to make a portion of them double. fallin g carelessly over the arm give a tantali zing semblance Experiment wit h muslin to form a pattern for th ese skirt of a sleeve. panel s, observing that the full-len gth portion of the panel For the average figure, 2 ¼ yar ds of crepe and 3 yar ds on the left side of the dress forms tht under part, while of lace are needed for a model such as this.

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A season without rumors of an approaching vogue for For cutting out the dr ess, use a semi-fitt ed basque pat­ circular skirt s has been indeed a rar ity for some time. tern, with bateau neck line and drop- shoulder effect and Each spring and fall, one or more ambitious designers a circu lar skirt pattern having side wais t-lin e fulness. have includ ed the circu lar mode in their showi ngs, per­ In cutting the skirt, you may find it necessary to apply haps as "feelers" to try out publi c opinion in regard to side piecings if you use a two-piece pattern. To avoid so pronounced a style change. And almost always the such piecings, you may divide the pattern into three circular mode was adopted by so few that it was forgot ten sections, providing a seam at the center back and moving befor e another season rolled around. According to all the side seam farther toward the front, or make side-front reports , however , designers now feel that the public is and side-back seam lines and omit the cent er-side seams. warming up to th e circular movement, as the French Do not allow for a hem, as the skir t should be faced. call it, for a fall showing that does not include evidences of the circular tendency is the exception rath er th an Construction and Fitting.-After basting the hems at the rule . the center back and the under-arm seams, fit th e waist if Th ere is a great deal of leniency, though , in the necessary, but do not shape the under-arm lines decidedly. mann er in which thi s circular movement is achieved, and Then whip the hems at the center back and stit ch and some of the varietie s are so thorou ghly practical and may steam open the und er-arm seams. Join the sleeve edges be so easily developed th at even the staunchest supporter with French seams, gather the lower edge, and app ly the of the str aight silhouette cannot help but be won over wrist bands. Al so, stitch the skirt senms, and supply the to them. shirrin g at the sides. Fi rst of all, th ere is the type of skirt having an all­ In the second fitting , pin the skirt over the lower edge round flare. Then another has most of the flare con­ of the waist, drawing up and adjusting the skirt fulne ss centrated at the sides. In many cases, the flare is not in at the sides. Then pin in the sleeves and note the neck the skirt itself , but instead, an apron section, side panels, line. L ast of all, turn an even line at the lower edge or draperies of circu lar cut are poised over a found ation of the ski rt , being caref ul to let the folds hang perfectly skirt and thu s give the flared silhouette. free and not to pull down the materi al as you measure An all-around flare characterizes the youthful model th e distance from the floor. th at is illustrated , and black chiffon velvet, th e fabric of which the dre ss is made, enha nces the beauty of th e rip­ Finishing.-In finishing the dress, face the lower edge pled effect as no other material could. The elaborate of the skirt with light-we ight silk th at matches the dress embroidery , wh ich is carr ied out on the skirt alone, is in color. Also, face the neck, the edges of the opening of heavy Royal blue floss combined wit h metallic silver over the upp er arm, and the joining of the wais t and skirt thr ead. Still anoth er note of int erest in the skir t is th e w ith narrow strips of bias silk, and secure the shirrings manner in w hich the wais t-lin e fulne ss is concentrated to stay pieces of silk placed und erneath. Aft er stitching in rows of shirr ing at the sides. in the sleeve, finish the ar mhole by turnin g under th e edge A s for the basque wai st, it seems satisfied to let its of the sleeve portion and whippin g it flat to the waist. slender simplicit y emphasize the char m of the skirt , In stead of at tempt ing to mark th e embroidery design although it does strive for original expression by means on the skirt , place the paper pattern over the skirt , work of an opening cut over the upp er arm and a long puffed over this through th e skirt , and then tear the paper away . sleeve of Royal blue chiffon. The "seaman's rope" girdl e For the "seaman' s rope" girdle, use a found ation of at the low waist line, also thick, soft cording; cover of the chiffon, is a trim­ this loosely with chiffon ming th at is receiving Chijfon V elvet as a 1-lat Fabric and over the covered cord­ much well-deserved atten- Chiff on ve lvet , returning after a long absence as a ha t fabric, ing, place another seamed tion this season. is admirab ly suited for deve loping the irreg ul ar-brimmed hat covering of the chiffon show n on Mode l 4. Fitt ed seve rely plain with th e ve lvet, the easy- r oll ed, long-front brim tapers down at th e left sid e and made consid erabl y wider Material and Patt ern shapes up close to th e crow n at th e rig ht side back , supp ly in g a than the foundation cover­ vantage point for th e trimming. Li ke the brim, the top of th e Requir ements. - For the crown is covered plain and a bias strip of th e velvet is drawn in ing. Twist the chiffon so average figure, about 4 soft folds ar ound the side crown t o th e ri ght side back. as to give the effect that is F or trimming, a bi as strip of th e v e lve t, 7 in ches wide and yards of velvet, I¼ yards 40 inch es long , is made into a one -loop and two-e nd bow. This illustrated, taking care to of chiffon, I 5 skeins of bow is at ta che d at th e ri ght side bac k, the loop ext e ndin g across cover the seam with a th e back into a r at her high po int a t th e lef t side. T he t wo po int ed heavy silk, and 6 sma ll end s, which hav e first been fa ced wit h R oya l blue , shot-s ilver fold. After joinin g the skeins of silver thr ead are metal cloth, ex tend b eyon d th e brim a t th e ri gh t side , thu s ends to form a circle of accentuating th e width ac ross th e back. needed to develop this For thi s model, I yard of velv et 36 inch es wide and ¼ yard of the measurement needed, model with a circular silve r cloth wi ll be req uired. secure the girdle in posi- skirt of medium width. tion with slip-st itchin g.

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Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Model 4A.-A front apron effect provides circular Wallflower, which may be described as a soft, dark influence in the skirt of this mod el of navy serge, and henna, is the color of the satin , with waist-line ornaments the flare is -repeated in the very wide cuffs, which join of tangerin e and green contributing the only contrast. the close-fitting sleeves at th e elbow. Of more than As a rule, s¼ yards of 40-inch material is sufficient passing int erest is the arrangement of the narrow silk for a design such as thi s. braid applied in triple rows around the sides and waist In makin g the dress, face the under-arm portions with line of the apron and around th e lower edge of the waist, the material , applying these facings over the waist lining. thus forming a wide band across the front waist line , Cut the draper y in one wit h the surp lice front, first which is copied in the treatment of the cuffs. modeling this in muslin so as to insure correct results. Taken as a whole, the style is rather severe, but if worn by a slender , youthful type of average height it Model 4D.-O ver a camisole and plain- skirt founda­ might boast an enviab le smartness that is not easily tion of satin , the loose, crepe-chiffon blouse and circular achieved. draperie s of this design ripple in a most enchanting manner Of material 54 inches wide, 3¼ yards will be required with every movement of the figure. Both the satin and the for the average figure. If the braid is applied as shown, chiffon are of black, but crystal beading on the blouse and about I 5 yards will be needed. picoted ribbon s of bright blue, black, and metallic silver In fitting the waist portion of this style, do not shape at the waist line provide notes that serve to emphasize the the under-arm lines very decidedl y. Simply curve them suitability of the design for a slender or youthful type. in enough to give a semifitted effect, and keep the low The style is one that suggests evening or dinner wear, but waist line sufficiently loose to permit the lines of the dress it is suitable, also, for formal afternoon affairs. to fall gracefully. Provide about 2 7~ yar ds of satin and 5 yards of chiffon for the average figure, with I yard of ribbon of each color. Model 4B.-It would be difficult to overestimate the In modeling the skirt draperies , use circular pieces cut attracti veness and usefulne ss of the novelty girdles of this about 27 inches wide at the upper edge and 12 inches wide season. They are made in such unusual designs and at the bottom. You might outline pieces of this shape delightful colorings and are suitable for so many purposes on a gathered circular-skirt pattern. that they are especially deserving of the prominent position they hold among trimmin gs. Variety in Sleeves.-Fashion is showing so much varia­ Since the all-black costume has loosed its hold on tion in sleeve designs this season, that regardless of how popular favor , the novelty girdle has proved its worth in many frocks are included in one's wardrobe a different providing the essential touch of color, for this almost sleeve treatment for each should be the rule . invariabl y lends a smar t effect, while other means of adding Very often sleeves show kimono influence , whether color , unless carefully worked out, do not insure so much they are cut in one with the front of the waist or, as at a, satisfaction. set into a very deep armhole. This design has a trimming A fancy jade girdle provides the color note in this strip of self-material running the entire length of its model of black fancy crepe satin and Canton crepe. Here center and cut in one with the band that finishes the lower the inserted sections, godet-like in character, in the sides edge. Novelty braid in Persian colorings, a trimming of of the plain skirt, give the circular tendency and at the prominence this season, might be substituted for the band same time concentrate fulness at the sides. As is the of self-material. The arrangement of self-covered buttons case with many of the inserted side pieces, the. length is is interesting. With a trimming piece of self-material, made considerabl y greater at the center than where they however, the buttons might be of the filigree variety. join the front and back sections. The lower sleeve por­ Over a sleeve that is flared to a point below the elbow tions , although made full length, are slashed at the back and then tapered to a close-fitting wrist line, a cuff or trim­ and therefore provide but little protection for the arm. ming band applied in saw-tooth effect gives a semblance Average material requirements include 2 ¼ yards of of a double cuff, as at b. fancy silk and 2 ¼ yards of plain. A prett y, youthful arm most assuredly justifi es the use of a sleeve like th e one shown at c. Thi s consists Model 4C.-The soft, shimm ering surface of crepe merely of a straight plaited strip of materi al joined at a satin adds much to the charm of a circular skirt and, in dropped armhole and confined at the wrist line with a turn , the satin benefits by the flare treatment. What rosette-finished ribbon. better reason is needed for th eir combination in this model? The more conservative type of sleeve shown at d may The tr eatment of the waist is one that harmo nizes be chosen by the mature woman. Suggestive of dignity very well with the rippled skirt, for the sides, not being in its cut and simple decorat ion of embro idery, it would shaped and held together in a under-arm seam, fall in add considerable distinction to a costume , provided a soft folds over the arm and, in addition, a long scarf effect matching bit of embroidery were carried out on some other ripples down the back from one shoulder. par t of the dre ss.

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Fre sh impetus to th e vogue for draped model s is the Construction and Fittin g.- Gather the back skirt por­ assurance carried by the newest fabrics, for a supplen ess tion and baste this flat to the waist, leaving an extension th at sur passes any previou s offer ings in materials seems to at th e left side, as provided in th e cuttin g, for th e par_t be th e general characteristic. And drap eries are appear­ th at extends under th e drapery. Then baste the seams, ing on every side in such var iety of interpretations th at · but , before stit ching, slip on the dr ess and observe all the there is no difficulty in finding a drape to suit every pur­ points that should be noted in the first fitting. pose and every type. Besides, it is an easy matter to select After the fitting , finish th e seams; then make the collar a drapery th at is stri ctly withi n the limit of one's ability and the sleeve trimm ing bands ready for application. If to achieve, for draperie s range from straig ht applied strips, you are using broadcloth of firm weave and w ish to wh ich even th e beginner in dressmaking would have no decorate thi s with cut-work, instead of securing the raw difficulty in applying, to the most intricate handlin g of th e edges with embroidery floss in th e usual manner, you may material, wh ich requires th e skill of an ar tist. merely outline th e designs w ith very fine machine stitchin g Th e preeminence of the side-drap ed model mak es thi s in self-color and afterwar ds cut close to th e stitching the notew orthy feature for fall styles, but there seems to Finish the outer edge of the collar and sleeve band s with be a well-established rumor of the approach of center­ bindings of ribbon and then baste them in position. front draperie s, which will concentrate most of th e skirt For the back girdle porti on, cut a bias strip about fulne ss at the front and cause the back skirt portion , in 7 inches wide and several inches longer than one-half the marked cont rast, to be dra wn closely over th e figure and measurem ent taken at a low waist line. For a dr ess of clearl y define its lines. Even in man y preval ent styles, this kind, the waist line is. generally mad e but a few inches the back skirt portion has a tantalizing habit of differin g above the normal hip line . Fini sh the edges of the girdle so decidedly from the front that one cannot immediat ely by turning th em under and securing them flat with relate the tw o. extremel y fine stitche s. Among the loveliest and most practical of the side­ In the second fittin g, pin the draper y in position and draped models , the design shown here may surel y take then pin this to the waist-line fuln ess of the extension made its stand. This is fashioned of black crepe-back satin, a on the back skirt portion. Arrange the girdle so that it materi al that lend s itself admirably to drapin g. The may be tacked at the right under arm and finished with front is in one piece with unbroken effect at the waist the left und er arm to extend just under the draper y and line , but the back has a separ ate gathered skirt porti on. be secured each time the dr ess is put on. This adjustment White broadcloth decorated with cut-work and edged with will make it possible to slip the dress over the head with bright green grosgrain ribbon forms the collar and also ease even though there is no other than the neck opening. provide s sleeves trimming bands. The grosgrain ribbon If you desire a soft finish across the front neck line , appears again in the rosette that hold s the draper y. pin a double fold of self-colored chiffon or Georgette in position, as shown. Then turn an even line at the lower Material and Pattern Requirements.-For the average edge, pin the edge of the back skirt extension just inside figure, 5 yard s of 40-inch material, Ysya rd for the collar of the drapery, and observe whether the drapery is correct. and sleeve band s, and 3 yards of ribbon are needed. If you are un able to procure a pattern having a one- Finishing.-Finish the lower edge of the skirt and piece draped front similar to this, you may use a plain drapery with wide bias bindings and tack the und er­ one-piece front for cutting neath skirt portion to the the muslin model, leaving lower edge of the one­ an allowance for the ex­ Unique Vev elopment if Vouble 1Jrims piece front. tension at th e left side. Fini sh the ends of the S_imple and of u tmost chi c is thi s huge black Lyon s ve lvet Then , in developing the hat, a canotie r of cartwhee l propensities, which is flange d midway girdle for proper adjust­ model , lift the material at on the u nder brim with a hanging veil effect of Chantilly lace. ment and place facings A rather high ova l crown w ith s trai gh t brim abo ut 3 in ches the side to form the drap­ wi de is used for th e fo unda tion, the un der brim being covered over all th e Jommg s ery and pin thi s in posi­ pl ain with si lve r cloth. A row of Chantill y lace, 2 in ches wide, where overcasted edges is sewed on the top of th e brim aroun d the ed ge and a ll owed to tion , afterwards shaping hang in a v eil effec t ov er th e eyes . would not prove satis­ the lower edge as you The up pe r brim , which ex ten ds abo ut 3 in ches b eyon d th is factor y. edge, is mact·e of tw o laye rs of velvet and one of crino li ne pas ted desire it. together. Usually , no wire is nee ded on the edge of thi s type Make the rosette of For th e back skirt por­ brim, beca use the pasting of the velve t to th e crino lin e g ives separate pieces of ribbon enoug h stiff ness, but in some cases a lace wire may be us ed, tion, you may provide aft er whic h th e edge can be bound w ith a row of grosgra in cut with pointed ends, merely a staight length of ribbon or a narrow bias bin ding of th e ve lv et. arranging them in pin­ A balloon crow n of velvet is drawn down over the foun datio n materi al wide enough to and draped in soft fo lds around the side crown, and a spray of wheel fashion; then tack extend under the drapery meta l and velvet flowe rs adorns its ri ght side front. this over the drapery at at the left side. the side front .

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Look for a collectible print version at the end of this issue. Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Model 5A.-Subtleness lurks in the drapery of this in addition, grape designs formed of crystal beads for the navy crepe satin model, for each turn of the figure brings grape clusters and silver cloth applique for the leaves, a new conception of the manner in which the skirt is provide a trimming that is in exquisite contrast with the developed. The most pronounced portion of the drapery velvety coral background. is at the right side where the material is drawn up toward This same trimming might also be used with excellent the side back and laid in plaits, thus causing the cascade effect on white velvet and, really, a safer selection than folds. This drapery is cut in one with the front portion white velvet for fall and winter wear would be difficult to of the skirt, which is extended to the left side back and make, for white is assured great popularity for the coming joined, with a narrow drapery of the applied variety, to season. The design is one that has possibilities, also, as an the back skirt section. The back skirt section, in turn , afternoon costume, for it might be developed from Canton is extended under the right side drapery and tacked to this. crepe of a becoming color and the grape designs made of Over the kimono foundation of the waist are laid small oval-shaped sections of material picoted around the front and back panels, which broaden toward the waist edge and tacked merely at the upper end in cluster arrange­ line until they meet at the under arm. The front panel ment,and the leaves made of picoted sections of metal cloth. boasts particular novelty in the manner in which it extends About 4 yards of velvet is needed to develop the model over the shoulders and terminates in loose-hanging straps as illustrated, · which does not make allowance for the finished at the ends with deep fringe that matches the foundation skirt included in the pattern suggested for dress in color. The cuffs are of the panel variety, having this design. For trimming, provide ¼ yard of silver the ends finished separately. cloth and 3 small bunches of beads. For the average figure, s¼ yards of 40-inch material are needed for the development of this model. Model 5£.-An inevitable part of the smart ward­ robe is a black dress so fashioned that it may serve as Model 5B.-There seems to be no other color that can either a dinner or an evening gown and thus solve the combine its decidedly contrasting tones to produce nearly problem of what to wear when one is in doubt as to the so much charm as the gradations of brown. Perhaps this nature of some function one contemplates attending. is the reason why brown and tan combinations have lasted Just such a dress is this model of crepe chiffon, which through a number of seasons and still prove of irresistible combines two kinds of drapery, the "pinched-in" variety appeal in models such as this draped velvet dress, which , at each side to indicate the waist line, and the applied is of a dark brown termed Hindu, with drapery and sleeve cascade type, lace being used to carry out this effect. The facings and a trimming piece accenting the side closing of front portion of the waist is cut to carry out a cascade the waist, of toast-colored crepe satin. drapery similar to that formed by the lace in the back The drapery is cut in one with the skirt, one end of and is picoted on its edges and tacked in one or two places the material being dropped at the side to form the cascade to the lace on the shoulder. A jet girdle extends across effect and the opposite end secured under this drapery. the back waist line and terminate s at each side front in The rosette is of velvet faced with the contrasting fabric. very attractive jet ornament s. The foundation slip, cut Average material requirements for this design are 4;½ in camisole fashion at the top, is of soft satin. yards of velvet and 1 ¼ yards of crepe satin. For the average figure, provide 3 yards of chiffon, 2¾ yards of lace, and 2~i yards of satin. Model 5C.-Fulness "pinched in" and also secured with shirrings at each side waist line in the unbelted one­ Model 5F.-Annoyances and difficulties that ever seem piece front stamps this model as of the newer mode. The to be synonymou s with the fitting and adjusting of sleeves material is crepe satin and the color, Rangoon, a brown of the regulation type fade into the background when several tones lighter than Hindu. The back is cut in two­ sleeves of the type shown here make their appearance. piece fashion , having a waist panel that repeats the front These consist merely of a broad strip of material shaped effect and narrow skirt panels at each side back. These a trifle at the upper edge and applied by merely laying it panels are lined with chiffon and this same material is over the waist portion and securing the slightly shaped used for facing the lower edge of the broad kimono sleeves. edge, leaving all the other edges free. The ornaments over the draperies are of bronze beads. Toast-colored Panama crepe, a fabric similar in appear­ Provide, for the average figure, about 5 yards of crepe ance to Canton crepe but with its under surface more satin and 1 ¼ yards of chiffon. downy and showing a less decided rib, is used for this model. A cascade drapery cut in one with the front of Model 5D.-To soar in the very heights of draped the skirt and an accordion-plaited strip of the material distinction , a model has but to choose velvet as its fabric merely looped over the belt distinguish the otherwise plain and then draw up its fulness at one side in soft, lovely skirt. The belt and sleeve trimming is of red beads. folds. Such requirements have been met most delightfully About 5 yards of material 40 inches wide is needed in this evening gown of coral-colored chiffon velvet, and, to make this model for the average figure.

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When economy must, of necessity, be the uppermost mits them to fall in cascade effect. Between the drap­ thought in the selection of a dress, this need not mean eries at the upper edge are four or five narrow tucks that style must be sacrificed, for careful planning · of a pressed in upstanding fashion, and these, with similar tucks costume may result in a happy combination of both of these placed in the lower portion of the straight-line bodice, qualities. First of all, there are colors and materials to form a wide girdle effect. Narrow sash ends brought consider. Standard colors, black, navy, and brown, are from the under-arm seams and tied at the center back always safe selections, for t~eir unobtrusiveness makes for cover the joining of the plain gathered back skirt portion less concern when the· dress must be worn again and again to the tucked bodice. The sides of this back ,skirt portion in the same company. 1\,Iaterials must be of the less are slip-stitched under the draperies formed by the front. · expensive varieties, but . never cheap in appearance. Double, unpressed bias strips of self-material arranged In the matter of design, the point to consider is whether in parallel rows and circular motifs provide the novel yoke the economy dress must serve for several seasons or and sleeve trimming bands. whether, because of its inexpensiveness, it may be planned For the average figure, provide 4¼ yards of material. with only one or two seasons' wear in view. In the one case, conservativeness of style must be dominant; in Model 6B.-A means of modernizing a past season's· the other, a bit of the extreme may be indulged in. dress •is suggested by this design, which, as illustrated, is Right in line with talk of economy dresses is the virtue of navy serge with red jersey front panel and cuffs of careful remodeling. Oftentimes, a frock that bears decorated with groups of large navy French knots. style marks of sever;il seasons past,. by careful renovating One of the most notably out-of-date features of a and a little recutting or the addition of some new touches, dress may be its comparatively high waist line. A seam may be made to take the place of an entirely new model. above the waist line, arranged as in this model, makes · the piecing a success, provided discarded portions of the dress Model 6.-That drawn-thread work need not depend are sufficiently large to permit the cutting of these piecings. entirely ·on summer fabrics for effectiveness is the opinion The skirt joined at a low waist line and faced rather than gained from this simple one-piece model of an inexpensive hemmed will surely prove long enough, and the insertions quality of navy wool crepe. Besides, the drawing and of contrasting material will provide extra width if this heiiistitching of coarse woolen threads cannot be termed . is needed. In the sleeves, the contrasting fabric may take at all tedious in comparison with the work required on the place of a worn portion. frail cotton fibers. To develop the entire design for the average figure, Outside of the drawn-thread work, the making of this 3 ¾ yards of material 44 inches wide, I¼ yards for trim­ model is extremely simple, for there are merely the under­ ming, and I skein of floss are needed. arm seams, the hem, the belt, and the neck and sleeve bindings, which a·re of red silk, to consishirring !I inch apart are run around each edge . This strip is and extended around to then laid over a 211-inch -wide foundation frame and the shirring ness. drawn up to fit the head-size on top and underneath. the side back. The skirt is of two The four-piece sectional crown is developed according to the About 4 ¾ yards of method given for making a six-piece crown in Art. 37, Piece Goods straight pieces, the front Hats . In developing the four-piece sectional, it will be necessary · 40-inch material and ¾ portion having its sides to allow an extra 2 inches across the bottom of each section, making yard for trimming are it 6 inches , and to graduate the sides in the right proportion. needed to develop a model left free for a distance These sections are outlined with a cord of duvetyn before being of 8 or IO inches at the joined and then applied to the brim . such as this for the average upper edge, which per- figure.

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Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC One Sleeved MagicPattern: Bias Scarf •••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• • that were inspired by these vintage gems featured • • This is an original Magic Pattern, a project you cut • in the book The Magic Pattern Book, which I • out using diagrams instead of pattern pieces. These • • licensed with Workman Publishing. We have chosen • were first created by Mary Brooks Picken for the • to keep the authenticity of this original pattern • • Woman’s Institute’s student magazines, Inspiration • intact and therefore have not changed instructions • and Fashion Service. My book Vintage Notions: • • based on modern fabrics and techniques. Note at • • An Inspirational Guide to Needlework, Cooking, • the end of this pattern you will find helpful tips for • Sewing, Fashion & Fun featured 12 original Magic • • drafting pattern pieces. • • Patterns. Recently I have created modern patterns • ••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••• •

►►► THIS IS a new twist on an old To cut out: Straighten fabric. Lay it idea. Have you despaired of keeping a flat, with one raw edge toward you. Point F scarf on your shoulders and attractively A is at upper left-hand corner. B is 10 in. G draped? The sleeve effect in this scarf is to left of lower right-hand corner. Chalk Front your answer. a line diagonally from A to B. Using this You need l yd. to 11/s yd. of 50-in. taf­ line as a guide, measure and outline scarf feta. Follow the same diagram for cutting pieces as indicated on diagram. Cut out Back a yard of fabric, but make the diagonal on heavy outlines. ends shorter. To make: Bring edges C and D to­ gether so that front and back are lapped, E as in E. Seam edges at F to make shoulder line and edges at G to form underarm. Turn seams to inside and press. Finish all edges with narro;w rolled hems.

50“

11“ 1/2 Armhole + 1 1/2”

Back selvage 1 1/8 yd 11“

Front 1“ 4“ 2“ 4“ 16“ selvage D C 12“ 10“

3“ 17“ 10“ B

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Your Measurement Chart & Notes on Making Magic Patterns

BUST (Fullest Part} ...... ·-- WAIST ...... •..•.••...... __ ,~) HIP (Fullest Part) ...••.••..... ·-- ~\111,1, SHOULDER WIDTH OF CHEST...... ·-- _,,_~l ARMHOLE

FRONT WAIST LENGTH Shoulder to Waist ...... ·-- mz () ;,,; FRONT SKIRT LENGTH .... Waist to Desired Length...... __ 0 ~ ► FRONT FULL LENGTH c;;.... Shoulder to Floor ...... __

NECK (At Base} ...... ••.•...• ·-­

SHOULDER HIP Neck to Armhole Line...... ·-- z m (I> ARMHOLE ...... •.•••.••••••• __ () ::c ;,,; ~ 0 ► C WIDTH OF BACK ...... •.... ·-­ ....en ,...... C 0 0 m BACK LENGTH 0 m ... Neck to Waist ...••.••.••••••• ·-- ~ .,, m... 0 .... BACK LENGTH ,- 0 m 0 Neck to Floor ....••••••••••••• ·-- z 0 G).... ,.. ::c .,, OUTSIDEARM ,.. Shoulder to Wrist (Arm Bent) ... ·-- 0 0 INSIDEARM Armhole to Wrist (Arm Straight).

UPPERARM (Fullest Part) ...... __ _

ELBOW (.Arm Bent) ..•.••••... ·--

WRIST .•.•••••••••••••••••... __

HAND (Closed) ••••••••••••.. ·--

Keep Accurate Measurements Making The Pattern Since the garments in this book are all cut from measurements, it If you have the least doubt about your ability to chalk out the is necessary to have accurate ones to follow. Keep a list of your garment on your fabric, then rough it out first with crayon or own measurements always at hand for ready reference. heavy pencil on wrapping paper or newspaper. Cut out the paper pattern and use it to cut your garment. Cutting from a diagram, Measurements for fitted garments should be taken over the type of you can be sure that the proportions are correct for your size and foundation garments you expect to wear with them. Remove dress, that the garment will be a good fit. jacket, or coat, which would distort the measurements. Do not take measurements too tight. Make all easy enough for comfort. The chart shows how to place the tape correctly for each measurement.

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Becorningness, a Hat's Chief Asset

REGARDLESS of the fabric or trimming By MARY MAHON SUGGESTIVE of spring is the bat illus- chosen for a hat, it must possess the Department of Millinery trated at the extreme right. Black satin, element of youth and must be becoming to bright metallic brocade, and gay feather the wearer if it is to be a success and top the flowers set low at the right side of the crown costume properly. And it is gratifying to blend . their way into this sma.:rt hat. This see how amazingly youthful the newest hats mod el, too, boasts of a narrow, eye-shading are. Their colorings are brim, which is covered plain with the :!lltin bright, their contour is and bound with a narrow meta.llic ribbon. close, and many of them The medium-high, dented crown is cevered dazzle with metallic trim­ with metallic cloth. A mings. With so much V-shaped motif of satin of charm and beauty starts at the ba se of the from which to select, it crown in the center front is almost impossible to and spreads out over the err in one's choice if the dented top. Attached idea of becomingnes s is low at the right-side kept in mind. back and extending be­ A feature of utmost yond the brim edge are importance in the several feather flowers, season's modes is the giving a softening effect fact that, with the pres­ to an otherwise stiff hat. ent styles, the art of For formal wear, the millinery is gradually returning. Expert vogue for metallic bro­ workmanship, clevern ess in hand-blocking, ~e effects lends its and general manipulation of the lines of the charm to the simpl e wrap shown at the lower hat must be heeded carefully since careless center. A 40-inch-wi;ie square of brocade making cannot be covered up by additional has it s four sides edged with a 9-inch-wide trim.ntlhg. Even trimming, though ex­ double binding of satin: tremely simple, is carefully thought out, and req~es the deft fingers of the clever THE hat modes of the hour are replete with milliner to apply it. Whether the fabric youthful and becoming styles, which will should repeat that of the rest of the inevitably work their way into the early spring attire or be metallic, velvet, or felt is modes. Thi s is parti cuiarly true of the pres­ a questio:11 that each individual must ent vogue for metallic and tinsel, w:l!ich are decide for her self. carried over for the southern resort wear and the early spring season, not in the splashy GROUPED on this page for illustra- effects used for winter but in discreet touches, tion are various -types of mid-w inLer as shown in the new moucbon body hat, which hats, all of which demon strate the very has the single sequins worked in with the popular idea of securing smart effects with crown of the same material. Several band s weave at wide intervals . Thi s body and the self-material trims or novel ornaments. of narrow metallic ribbon are run through metallic tcansparent hats and the Georgette­ Stylists, in search of something new, have slashes so as to form a bask et-w eave effect oovered felt s are the forerunner-s of the new gone far afield for some, such as the baby about 2 inche s wide at the base of the crown . season. calf now so much the vogue, and have found For the trim, an ostrich flower is applied in a Comfort, pliability, and youthfulness are new ways of treatment for old favorite s, such dent at the left front of the crown. the requi sites of the new hats for resort and as pony skin. Both of these furs are so This type of crown affords many possibili­ spring wear. No matter whether straw or treated that they are as flexible as cloth, and ties in the way of manipulation. It can be fabric is employed in their construction, the milliners are using them in much the same crea sed and dented to suit the short woman, finished hat must have the same soft sil­ way, taking unprecedented liberties with dis­ being shaped to give decided height at the houette and smartness that have made the tinct success. direct back, side, or at any point to make the felt an item all women are loathe to relinquish. The hat at the extreme left, a close-back, hat becoming. For the tall woman, it may droop ing-front-brim toque, has its top brim assume the broad, flat effect here shown. SPECIAL emphasis is placed on color this fitted plain with baby calf, and its soft crown, season. With very few exceptions, every whi'ch follows the backward draped movement THE model at the right of the center one can wear black, for it means absence of of the early fall, fashioned out of heavy black featur es the broad, tam-crown effect, color, and the pale woman, as well as the one satin. · As if to hold the folds in position on except that in this instance it acoompanies a with high color, looks quite well in it . Because the center front of the crown, a long slender narrow drooping brim. In this petite hat, of its servioeable and easy-to-wear properties, triangle of the calf is appliqu ed in a slightly very definite lines are conspicuous by their women have drifted into the wearing of black slanting line and serves as the decorative ab sence, that is, a soft yielding effect is and dark neutral shades and have become trim for this model. stressed. Becomingness is the cue taken up habituated to them, the result being that many by the designer. The size of the brim is a of them appear dull and inanimate . But T~E best hats are still ~oft and_ supple ~d studied perfection, being cut and drooped a these very women.dre81ied in bright colors, m no way severe. Their restramed quality trifle and then bound with a narrow binding are rejuvenated and, in living up to such comes, not from poverty of ideas, but from of calf skin . Inserted in the crown at each colors, often show very different personalities . great knowledge, great technical perfection, side of the front are two motif s of the same For this reason , stylists are stressing color, and a true conception of sophistica ted sim­ calf skin, introduced to give color and inter­ and in working with the individual, are en­ plicity, as portrayed in the model· at the left est. An amber hairpin, set in brilliants, is deavoring not only to supply a contrasting of ·the center. This medium-wide brin'l. of thrust through a crease in the crown at the . note to her ensemble but to bring out her supple felt is topped with a generous tam right side, giving the hat a smart note. best features by -the color used in her hat.

Originally published in Inspiration, 1927. • Artful Simplicity Ill Hair Dress

ASone looks out oYer a gathering of women, By BARBARA ELLISON an effect as possible, and pin secure . Then it is interesting to observe the types of D epartment of Good Look s bring the front over the ba ck, and, together hair dress and to speculate how this or that with the fringe at the neck, form it into a sma ll effectis achieved. Simplicity knot or other inconspicuous is the dominant theme, but it arrangement to produce an is an artful simplicity. Let effect similar to that shown. no woman think that she may avoid taking trouble by bob­ TH E mannish bob, which bing her hair, for by doing so was becoming to only a she draw s th e line between few, is fast passing from the becomihgn ess and unbecom­ mode. So says Monsieur ingness much more sharply, Manuel, the famous dictator and consequently dare not of hair fashions. And we permit the least slipping into should, perhaps, be glad that carel essness . Ends that have its vogue is over, for it was a grown a bit scraggly or that . peculiarly trying type of hair stand out when they should dress. be turned under, oiliness in­ The bob of the hour clings stead of glossiness, or a to the head, but it is soft and harsh , sta rchy look when graceful in effect, as shown there should be softn ess and at the right above. Here, luster, are fatal to th e effect too, a quantity of hair is she wishes to secure . And undesirable and should be so, more than ever, th e price thaL she pay s massage in keeping up the appearance of the carefully thinned out und ernea th by a compe­ for beauty must be eternal vigilance . hair. tent hair-dre sser if it threatens to produce The carefully groomed :woman possesses a About ten minutes each night should be undesirable bulk at any spot, for always the genius for detail. She understands that given to the stimulation of the scalp . Sepa­ well-shaped contour of the head should stan d before she touches the comb to her hair to rate the hair, placing the tips of the fingers revea led. The Bobbi e Pin, by the way, which arrang e it, she must give it the care that it on the scalp with a firm, but not heavy, pres­ is like a narrow steel spring, is very helpful in needs to look its best. sure, and move the fingers in a circular motion holding wayward locks close to the head. without lifting the m. Work back from the The more you see and study the sleek hair TH E first question most women ask is, top or sides of the head to the neck until the dresses of the present day, the more you come "How often should I shampoo my hair whole scalp has been gone over, finishing with to appreciate the natural beauty of a well­ to keep it in good condition?" You must a fairly vigorous rubbing of the shoulders and shaped head and the more you desire to see it ctepend a good deal on your own judgment back of the neck to drive the circulation untamper ed with. It becomes actually dis­ for thi s, taking into con sideration the nature upward to the scalp . Such massage will not tressing sometimes , therefore, to look at a of your hair and the surroundings in which tire you if you place your elbows on a table head shor tened in the back by a hair cut that you live and work. Bu t often enough, cer­ and bend forward with your head betwee n begin s an inch or more above the natural line tainly, to keep the hair and scalp clean, for your hands. and is perhaps further chopped off by being cleanlin ess is one of the first requirement s of If your scalp is exceptionally dry, rub in a cut straight across. In contrast to this, hair health and beauty. Short hair should be little oil of sweet almonds before you begin observe, if you will, the mann er in which the washed oftener than long because it does not to massag e it. A good way to apply the oil natural hair line is followed in the illustration. protect the scalp so well from dust and soil is with a medicine dropper. Be careful to and also because the oil that would naturally get it directly on the scalp and not on the hair. WHILE hair very beautifully waved is have more surface over which to distribute Anoth er way to stimulate the circulation, always attractive, one becomes almost itself is confined to shorter lengths and is and an excellent one, is to pull the hair. satiated at times with the regularity and consequently more profu se. Pick it up strand by stran d, and, holding it sameness of the marcel and occasionally looks Before washing the hair, brush it well. firmly close to the scalp, give a strong, but with distinct pleasure at perfectly straight Then wet hair and scalp thoroughly with not a jerky, pull. Thi s treatment is good for hair on just the right type of woman. Such a warm water, and with the tips of the fingers both dry and oily hair, going far toward mode is by no means easy to ·wear, but when rub what ever cleaning agent you use well into restoring the health and tone of any scalp it is becoming, it possesses the advantage of the scalp and through the ends of the hair and thereby correcting conditions either of being distinc tive and of lending itself to effects until you have worked up a good lather. excessive oiliness or dryness . that are what the Pari sians call "chic ." Rinse in warm water and lather again; then When the hair is waved, the almost uni­ rin se in at least thr ee waters un til the water IN arranging long hair according to the versal preference is for the deep, soft, natural­ runs clear, using lemon juice in the next to ' present mode, the contour of th e head mu st looking wave. If your hair is such that it the last rin se if you require a special agent be revealed, too much hair easily detracting respond s to a water wave, choose this, for it to remove all trac es of soap . The first from smart ness. In the illustration at the eliminates the devastating heat of the iron . lathering cleans the hair while the second upper left is an arrangement that suggests a Th ere is also on the mark et a new prepara­ bring s out its lights and glints. gracefully becoming bob, the soft knot at the tion that is intended to give almost instantane­ back being fashionably inconspicuous. ous results, also without the application of TH E blood being the only carri er of nourish- To secure a fashionable effect, keep th e hair heat. The hair is first wet and combed with a ment to th e hair, a scalp through which short and thinned out. Or, if you object to waving fluid, after which a na tural-looking the blood circulates sluggishly is an under­ cutting it, try arranging it somewhat after wave may be set with the fingers. The hair is nouri shed scalp and generally produc es thin, the following manner: then allowed to dry, when the waves may be lusterless hair. And the reverse is true, that Separate the front and bring it forward to combed out without losing their permanency. a scalp in which the blood courses act ively be arranged later. Divid e the remaining It is claimed that this fluid is neither sticky almo st invar iably grows shining, healthy portion, leaving a thin fringe at the back, coil nor greasy and that it will hold a wave for a hair. So you will understand the virtue of the rest over the ba ck of the head in as flat week at least.

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Originally published in Inspiration, 1927. The Modern Won1an

WE_hear much these By ALICE M. STONE How to Stretch The Editorial Department the Clothes days about the Budget faults of the modem •:';.~Money-Makers ~ woman and her Jack of interest in housewifely " ~R the last fourteen months, " says Mrs. arts, but such a picture, as applied to the Edwin Jeffrey, a Canadian student, "I hav e Could YOU Use More average woman, leaves us unconvinced when not bought a single ready-made garment for Money? we constantly rec;eive such letters . ~ these. myself or my four childr.en, and they are a "It seems as though every tim~ I pick up a lot better dressed than they have ever been. Y es-yes-yes--came the chorus. needle c;ir open the machine," writes Mrs. I have more dresses, too, than I have had Fro m Mrs. Brown, whose littl e Mary had outgrown all of last Mildred E. Murphy, a California student, since I was married. year's clothes and needed new "I have more to thank you for. My little "I had a doctor's bill of $149.00 last from head ·to toe---Mrs . Grey, with three-year-old girl is the neatest dressed babe winter when my husband was very sick two big boys in college, who try to in our block and I've made every stitch she with pneumoni a, and it is paid chiefly be­ be considerat e of Dad, but who wears. We are making a trip East soon, and cause I made our clothes this year. We just had to have some of the every bit of Madeline's and my wardrobe, I have had more picnics and outings this sum­ necessities - Betty White, with an have made . She has ten dresses and three mer, too, than during the last three sum­ income, but too small to provide of them have hats to match, while I have just mers put together." the fur coat that the furrier said one dozen. My coat is four years old, but he would hold for her until her you'd never know it . Her Training Envied by All deposit was ready-Sylvia Green, "My husband says I'm worth a mint for Her Friends the teacher, who last summer had what I save. My outfit and the babe 's, TUR.AL regret over lost opportunities, her first taste of travel and this NA year expects to see something of enough to last us until next season, have cost as glimpsed in the following letter from Europe . A very emphatic Yes under $50.00." Miss Helen H. Zeintck, a New York State from Gertrude Brown, newlywed. girl, makes one realize keenly the virtue of She can't get used to asking her Ends Complaint, "I Have Nothinll securing one's training before the chance has Tom for spending money, so to Wear" slipped by and the need for it ha s become an wants to earn her own. "AT the time of my marriage," says Mrs . acute stimulus. Miss Zeintck 's own experi­ "How can we earn some extra Irm a I. Imhof, an Ohio member, "the ence, by way of contrast, is doubly satisfying. dollars , inst in our spare time?" subj ect of clothes did not trouble me much "My moth er has been a widow for over is what these ambitious ·folks becau se I had money to bu y the pretty twenty-one years," she writes. "When wrote us. And here is the an­ clothes I am so fond of. But later I realize d Father died, there were three of us left and swer. The Christmas Money Club, what a problem it is to make a dollar go far very little cash. I went to a nearby fact ory, which started in September, pro­ when you are paying .for a home and furniture . and as soon as I could take care of a machine, vided extra . dollars-all their own -for so many of our Woman 's "My husband was just as generous as any received $7.00 a week. Institute friends that we are going "One day I bought a magazine, and looking hu sband e,·er was, but the ready-made gar­ to continue the club plan. These ments that I liked to wear seemed so expensive, it over noticed the advertisem ent of the Insti­ folks who have been earning both and each time I needed a new garment the tute. Out side of a few middy blouses and Commission and Bonus have proved situation became more serious to me. things made during my last school year, I themselves real "Money-Makers," "Finally I wrote to the Woman's Institute didn't have anything to wear, so I sent for so this new plan for earning extra for literature, and decided I would purchase particulars and enrolled. dollars in just one's spare moments the course if my husband would consent. At "When the first books came, I was over­ is to be named after them--"The first he doubted whether any one could learn come with joy to think that anything could Money-Makers." to sew by mail, but he finally consented, and I be so simple, and it remained that way right enrolled . through the cours.e. How You Can Be a "After the first few lessons I began making "A few years ago I thought it would be nice Money-Mak.er plain things, and soon after I was making for some of my friends to enroll, but they You will want to know all about pretty dresses. I have just completed two told me that they could not be bothered. this pleasant , easy way to earn beautiful Georgette gowns . One of them Quite recently these girls came back. They some extra money for many of the little things that mean so much cost me $8.50 and the other $11.00, and had are married now, and they insist that I to one's happiness, but of which I been forced to purchase them at the store, instruct them at home. But it's too late . only too often one is deprived. I would have I enter a train­ There is nothing hard about it. had to pay at ing school this It 'is merely the difference between least $40.00 for fall, so it'~ quite losing spare moments and putting them to work for you. each. I know out of the ques­ In just their spare moments, other ,.because I saw tion. women are now earning extra dol­ some that were "My clothes lars that provide the things they no prettier for spell not only have longed for, and the Institute that pri ce. i ndi vid uali ty will help you, too, to earn a fund all your own to do with as you "My husband and personality like. says the best but that little Read the Circular sent with this part of it is I something that copy of INSPIRATION,fill in the cou­ never complain is so different, pon, or, if the Circular has been that I have noth­ and are envied mislaid, just send us a card asking how you, too, can become a Money­ ing fit to . wear byallmyfriends. Maker. We want to help you so-- now, and he is as happy about what I have And when you take into consideration the accomplished as I am. wonderful saving (in four years I have saved ResolveToday to Be " I have saved many times the cost of the $500), why I assure you that, regardless of course on my own clothes, besides the mone y difficulties, cost , or any other obstacle, I a 1927Money-Maker I have earned sewing for others." would take the course again."

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Originally published in Inspiration, 1927. Cross-Stitch a-nd . Needle-Point

THEquaint charm of cross-stitch is unsur- By CLARICE CARPENTER You are now ready for the embroidery. passed by any other type of needlework, Editorial Department Select the thread to fill the squares of the for about it there lingers the romance of its canvas, ~d choose a long-eyed embroidery association with the old-time samplers, needle. It is well to start near the center of which had their origin in ·Europe long before the design as there is. less danger of making a America was discovered. Recently there mistake in counting. It is simpler, too, if has been a revival of interest in the sampler, one works the large masses of color first and and one now sees many prized ·examples then fills in the smaller ·spaces. that have come down from our . own colonial day:s, as well as very modern ones charac~­ "TOmake .the cross-sti:ch, bring the needle ized by a lightness of sentiment that links up from t_he wrong side through both the them with the spirit of modern interior material :~nd the can~as, running it through decoration both in color and in motif. the center of a large square of the canvl!S, as Of the latter type, the one illustrated at at a, Fig. 1, at the left end of a row of stitches the -right is a splendid example. The little to be the same color. Leave an inch of the =id, who so heartily asserts her willingness thread on the wrong side and work over it to attempt musical impossibilities, stands instead of knotting the thread. Next, bring out very charmingly in black cross-stitch on the needle a block to the right and a block white linen. Edging the sampler is a floral above a, insert it at b, and bring it out at c. border in pink, blue, and green. It is framed Continue in this way until the right end of the: in a simple, narrow, black frame. row is reached. This leaves diagonal stitches But cross-stitch is by no means confined to are of two kinds, printed on cross-barred on the right side, as at a, Fig. 2, and vertical samplers. In simple motifs and bottlers, it paper. One has the design printed in colors, ones on the wrong side. Complete the makes the most delightful decoration imagin­ each square in the color intendedfor the cross­ stitches by returning able for children's clothes, underwear, blouses, stitch that it represents . The other is a to the starting place, handkerchiefs, and innumerable household bl:ick-and-white diagram with each square working from rigl,,.t to linens. By varying the colors, the size of the marked by a color symbol. A chart explain­ left and being careful stitches, and the kind and size of thread, a ing the color represented by each symbol to bring out the needle gt~t rtUIIiber of effects may be obtained from a accompanies such a diagram. Designs for for each stitch in exs 'single pattern. filet crochet may also be used, the worker actly the point where a carrying out her own calor ideas. stitch of the first ·row THERE .are so many ways of making cross- was made, as at b. FIG. 3 stitch that one should fust learn some­ CROSS-STITCH mnvas is a stiff material, The completed stitches thing of each method ·and Hien dhoos~ the one _ resembling scrim and woven with the appear as at c. Take care to have ea.ch top best adapted to one's needs. Perhaps the threads far enough apart to block it off into stitch cross the lower one in the same direc­ simplest way is to follow a pattern stamped definite squares. There are two kinds, plain, tion so that the result is uniform. Only on the material, although this method has or single-thread, and Penelope, or double­ isolated stitches should be completed sepa­ certain drawbacks. It is almost impossible thread canvas, Both come in a variety of rately. to transfer the pattern so accurately that it sizes, ranging CRo'SS­ follows threads of the material exactly and from 6, 8, or 10 STITCH the blue lines of the transfer may show through squares to the designs may be the stitches after the work is completed. inch for very used also for But for lingerie and children's dresses that <-'Carsework and needle-point, are to be laundered, it is very satisfactory, 12, 16 or even sometimes and does indeed save time. more squares for termed petit­ The original method is probably the one of fine work. All poi n t, gros­ counting the threads of the fabric and work­ sizes may be pointortapestry, ing over the same number of threads in bo_th used, following which is whimsi­ directions for each stitch. .And undoubtedly the same pat­ callyspokenofas it is the most accurate· one. For this, the teni, each square the "half-sister" warp and woof threads must be the same of the design _ of cross-stitch, size, and unless they are corresponding to becauseitisliter­ fairly coarse, the work is one square of ally half a cross­ hard on the eyes. An the canvas. To stitch. Tapestty exception, however, is determine how yarn is usually found in such fabrics as l.afge the finished effect will be, count the used for this stitch as it fills in the spaces cross-barred dimity and squares covered by the entire width and well, though cottons and silks may also serve. finel.y checked ginghams. depth of the design anq. divide each by the Fig. 3 shows at a the finished stitch, which Themost used method is number of squares to .the inch in the canvas is done like the first row of cross-stitch. For FIG. 1 that of working the design you intend using. the second row, in which the stitches run in over cross-stitch canvas Having determin~ the size of the de.sign, the same direction as those of "t;he first, bring basted to the material, cut the canva.~ 1 inch wider . each way and the needle out at the lower end of the last afterwards removin ·g locate the square that comes at the exact stitch of the first row, as at b. Then insert the canvas by pulling it center. Place this over the center ·point of the needle, as at a, one square to the left and out, thread by thread, the space to be decorated, and when . you below and brir\g it out.in .the square above, as thus leaving the cross­ are very sure the threads of the material and at d. The third row is then done like the first. stitching on the fabric of the canvas run exactly parallel, baste thl;ITTI. The pillow illustrated shows a design in undernajlth. Designs together. around the edges, and, if the space wool on black satin, worked over .Penelope Fie. 2 fu·be used in this way is large, at intervals across the canvas. canvas, having 8 squares to the.inch.

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Originally published in Inspiration, 1927. Wiping Out the Miles

"THE Woman's Institute By ALICE M. STONE she announced, "Today it's came. It wiped out dis­ Editorial Department 40° below zero and one can­ tance. It made each ' not stay out long unless home its influence ~~~"-' ~\\\\\iji ///////1/;%'"/~ one is used to the cold and dressed for it. touched at once a ~ ~~~\\\/~:@t,{~~1 school. And the time :;::_:__---::::::,.::. "'~~ ~~ ::..---:;; · Everybody dresses in forstuc!y,eachwoman's ; _:::::::---.:::::::::::.~ ~::::==---:=.- fur, mostly deer skins. odd moments of con- The native women are venience.'' real experts in sewing That claim has been fur. It's wonderful to proven two hundred see the way they trim and forty odd thousand times, but perhaps up their coats, sewing for six weeks on one." never quite so dramatically as in the experi­ Increasing the bleakness of the picture, the ence of Mrs. M . P. Lyman, one of our cookery ice that 's blown off the ocean piles up on the students. shore ten and fifteen feet high in winter, and Two hundred miles out in the Arctic Ocean, in summer huge icebergs come floating in. fifteen hundred miles by dog team to the These are not without their utilitarian value, nearest accessible railroad, only 1,100 miles however, for the ice that 's above the water from the North Pole, the farthest north a is soft and furnishes ice for use. Which white woman can go, yet the helpful, sympa­ Dogs are the only domestic animal. Every 1916 thetic guidance of Institute teachers reached native has a team of five, so the Island is Class to her way out there on the fringe of civilization alive with them. These beasts of burden with as intimate and personal a touch as it are touched with a strain of wolf. Chained Is Yours? 1927 reaches the student but a half dozen miles when they are not in harness, they make the from Scranton. nights weird with their cries which resemble "Though we may be widely sepa­ In effect, her teachers were as close to her the wail of the prairie wolf. rated by the miles, we can be united as the nearest dog-team station, and this in spirit and heart." These few words from Dorothy Harmeling, the sense of contact with women of her own kind BUT with all its strangeness and remoteness, very first Woman's Institute student, must have reached and warmed a lonely spot there are poignant reminders of home. In voice anew what thousands of in her existence, for on all the island where the comfortable, twelve-room house of the others have expressed in letters that she stayed, there were but four white women. Hudson Bay Co., where Mrs. Lyman cooks have made our students seem very Even the face of a stranger was an event, for for ten or twelve employes and fur buyers, near and very dear to us. Miss Harmeling's letter to you, there is, for instance, a familiar object that few men reached this strange outpost unless enclosed with this issue of INSPIRA­ business called them ther e. strangely warms and cheers the heart of a TION, tells of a plan for an organiza­ home-sick man-a kitchen range. tion of your class. Many of our JT was a wonderful experience, though, to Despite the great distance of the Island students have expressed an interest in knowing other members of their make the trip, to see the midnight sun, the from markets, foodstuffs are plentiful and class and in developing a school midday darkness, the big polar bear, the quite such as one would find in the average spirit through which these friend­ white foxes, the hair seal swimming around American home . ships might be strengthened. in the water like ducks, the Esquimos, and "I have lots of chances to work out my How interesting it will be to join their poor little hovels, so low that she, recipes," writes Mrs . Lyman. "We had with your Institute classmates in this worth-while undertaking ! The though barely 5 feet 3 inches, must stoop to waffles yesterday and they were lovely. I class spirit that will be created ! enter them . So she told us in a letter that have the best flour, lard, and baking powder. The officers of your class that will was carried steadily for seven or eight days by In fact, all groceries are the best grade. Our be selected 1 The p e rm an e n t dog teams to Aklavik on the mainland. There vegetables are dried or canned and they are Alumnae Association I . The special honor that will go to the class that it was picked up by other dog teams and very good indeed. We have 90 dozen eggs has the largest representation ! The kept on going till it reached Ft. McMurray, packed in salt. They _came from Los .Angeles year book with · the name of each the end of the steel railroad for Edmonton, this summer, all the way around Alaska, student who participates ! And last getting in there three months after it was mailed, over four thousand miles." and best of all, the joy and happi­ ness that this combined effort of all a letter that bore not even a postage stamp, eleven classes will bring to girls for the ship carrying supplies to the Island A ND so it is that one woman has found and women all over the country. was lost at sea and postage stamps were not contentment and usefulness in carrying A friend who frequently visits us, available. her knowledge of the home arts into a has always seemed to get more "We saw the sun today for the first time in country that would be singularly desolate enjoyment than most folks out of her college experience. When asked seven weeks," she wrote . "Christmas week without its hearthstones . Surely, her experi­ how it was that her college seemed we were in total darkness. We can see to ,ence is a ·striking illustration, too, of the to be so mlich a part of her life,- she get about and it is a little lighter just at noon, extent to which education has been made said, "Each year since I left I've but lamps are lit all day ." available to all women. It is just as near as tried to be represented by some "It's not as cold as one would think," she your nearest mail box, or, as in the case of friend that I've influenced to take my place ." And so it is all through added. But scarcely had the ink dried when Mrs. Lyman, as her nearest dog-train station .. life. Our greatest happiness comes when we have shared with others what has helped us most. Read Miss Harmeling's message to you today and then think of the friends you know who need just the help Institute membership brings. May the Best Class Win and May That Class Be Yours

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC Originally published in Inspiration, 1927. Our Tenth Anniversary Gifts to YOU

Woman's Institute Library of Cookery

Five Handsome, Practical Volumes, 1227 Pages-526 Illustrations, Everything You Want to Know About Foods and Cookery-Regularly sold

VOLUME 1 at $15-Now FREE to You; 225 Pal(es 74 11/ustratlons VOLUME2 or 211 Pages 72 Illustratiens VOLUME3 243 Pages ANY THREE VOLUMES 156 1/lu.strations VOLUME 4 245 Pa~es of the I.C.S. Technical Library 12'7 lllrutratfons VOLUME 5 (See Page Four) 303 Pag es 97 Illustration .~ Everything You Have Always Wanted to Know About Planning, Preparing, Serving, Entertaining Time and again you have heard of the Woman's Institute Library of Cookery. You've wished many times for a set of your own. Now, we bring you the glad news that that wish may be realized-that now you may have this coveted guide to ease and perfection in cookery without a cent of expense. For it comes to you, entirely free of cost, as our Anniversary Gift to You, as explained in the inside pages of this folder. Think of possessing as your very own the textbooks of these splendid books. Graphic pages show how values are the complete Woman's Institute Course in Foods and Cookery! distributed in various foods. Cereals, breads of all kinds, Beautifully bound in delft blue, indexed for speedy reference, milk, butter, eggs and vegetables take their well deserved places containing the most thorough instruction on cooking and serv­ in new and delightful recipes. Soups, meats, poultry, game ing. Answering every conceivable question pertaining to foods and fish are brought to you in delicious fashions. And the and cookery. They should be the indispensable set of books canning, preserving and meal planning sections are constantly in every · student's home, and now through our special Tenth proving their worth. Then there are tempting salads, sand­ Anniversary Offer it will be possible for every student to own wiches , desserts, cakes, puddings, pastries, jellies, confections this splendid library. and beverages to provide in an almost endless series of delight­ These books contain more than one thousand proved and ful surprises for all ·seasons of the year. In fact, no matter tested recipes, presented as recipes never were presented before, what you may wish to know about foods and cookery you through amazingly simple directions and with the aid of hun­ will find it, ready and waiting for you, in· the Library of dreds of wonderful step-by-step photographs that entirely Cookery . eliminate guesswork and show you just exactly what to do. Unlike any other books that have ever been published on this These Five Wonderful Volumes FREE subject, these books cover every phase of the selection, pur­ chase, care, preparation and serving of food of every kind. During our Tenth Anniversary Period from

So, as you learn to prepare each article of food for the table, January 1st to February 28th, you will have ,;.Ill>->~>..,,;~ .. you learn also its food value, its composition, its place in an opportunity to get one of these sets of the ,-t~<-·-, the diet. Libr ary of Cookery entirely free. The offer is fully explained on the next page . We would Pictures Make Everything Clear urge you to take advantage of this oppor­ tunity to procure your Library of Cook­ Drawings and photographs and charts are carried in an ery, as this will be the last time that such interesting and unbroken procession through every section of a liberal offer can be made. _.,.;,J•

Vintage Notions Monthly ©2016 Amy Barickman, LLC

--@•.·. ,,. Vintage Notions Monthly continues to share the work of Mary Brooks . . ., Picken and the Woman’s Institute which inspired my book Vintage ,· ' , Notions. Although the Institute was founded 100 years ago, the treasure trove of lessons and stories are still relevant today and offer a blueprint for living a contented life.

If you enjoyed this issue of Vintage Notions Monthly, visit AmyBarickman.com for more of my curated collection of vintage content including patterns and books for needle and thread, inspiring fabric, textiles & free vintage art. Be sure to subscribe to my Amy Barickman Studio YouTube Channel where I share fascinating sewing and fashion history along with timeless style and DIY technique for your modern making!

www.amybarickman.com Join my Community Subscribe to my eNewsletters Further your skills and enhance your knowledge with fellow vintage-inspired creative spirits! Follow my creative journey! Learn about new products, videos, special offers, Amy Barickman’s Vintage Made Modern Facebook Group and receive a FREE PDF gift filled with Amy Barickman Studio YouTube Channel / Vintage Made Modern printable and ' V Amy Barickman Studio Facebook Page / ' a Cropped Jacket Magic Pattern. ' AmyBarickman Studio Instagram Inspiration Vintage Notions Monthly, Volume 1, Issue 9 (VN0109) All rights reserved. Printed in USA. No part of this publication covered by the copyrights herein may be used in any form of reproduced by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, except for excerpts in the context for reviews, without written permission of the publisher. Purchasing this book represents agreement that the buyer will use this book for personal use only, not for reproduction or resale in whole or in part. The original, rare content is in the public domain;however this restored and revised edition has been created from my personal collection and is protected by copyright. To reach Amy email [email protected]

l8l E ~ ® ~ YouiD ' ',. This Issue Contains Inspiration newsletter September 1920 from the Woman’s Institute of Domestic Arts & Sciences founded by Mary Brooks Picken Z Fashion Service supplement, Part 1 Fall/Winter 1922 Z Magic Sewing Pattern– One Sleeved Bias Scarf Z Collectible vintage Fashion Service fashion illustration by Alice Seipp Z Various articles from Inspiration, 1927 Z Woman’s Anniversary Gift Advertisement

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