“A Journey Beyond Compare”

January 5-21, 2013

AsiaTranspacific Journeys

Charles and Judith Moore

www.charlieandjudith.com

TABLE OF CONTENTS

The Tour Group………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 2 Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………………………………. 3 The Common Thread – Buddhism……………………………………………………………………………. 5 Comparison –Myanmar and Bhutan………………………………………………………………………. 8 History – Burma/Myanmar……………………………………………………………………………………… 9 History - Bhutan…………………………………………………………………………………………………….. 10 Journal – Burma/Myanmar o January 4-6 – Hello, Singapore and Yangon/Rangoon………………………………… 11 o January 7 – Yangon – The British Influence………………………………………………… 13 o January 8 – Moving Day……………………………………………………………………………… 15 o January 9 – Mandalay…………………………………………………………………………………. 17 o January 10 – All Aboard!...... 19 o January 11 – “Stupa-fied” in Bagan…………………………………………………………….. 21 o January 12 – Not on Top of Old Bagan………………………………………………………… 23 o January 13 – On to the Lake Country…………………………………………………………… 25 o January 14 – The Most Beautiful Lake…………………………………………………………. 27 o January 15 – Moving Day……………………………………………………………………………. 32 Journal – Bhutan o January 16 – Back to Buddhist Country……………………………………………………….. 33 o January 17 – Thimphu…………………………………………………………………………………. 36 o January 18 – Over the Mountain - in the Shadows of the Himalayas………….. 39 o January 19 – Snow on the Pass!...... 42 o January 20 – To the Top, or Stop…………………………………………………………………. 43 o January 21-22 – Moving Days Again; Heading Home…………………………………… 45 Fun Facts – Burma/Myanmar…………………………………………………………………………………… 46 Fun Facts – Bhutan…………………………………………………………………………………………………… 47 Acknowledgements and Final Thoughts……………………………………………………………………. 48

FELLOW TRAVELERS: January 5 - 15

Fred Crouch, Washington DC

Kazie and John Harvey, New York, NY

Missy Lynch, Quogue, NY

Rosemary McAllister, New York, NY

Jane Nyman, Denver, CO

January 5 - 18

Elizabeth Cannon, Statesville, NC

Betsy Hoover, Princeton, NJ

Christie Kinney, New York, NY

Michael Martin, Montclair, NJ

January 5 – 21 “ The Real Die-Hards”

Mara Berzins, London, UK

Luly Duke, New York, NY

Fritzi Kallop, New York, NY

Judith and Charlie Moore, New York, NY

Ruth Ross, Chapel Hill, NC

LEAD GUIDES

Ken “SP” Myanmar Bhutan email: [email protected] email: [email protected]

INTRODUCTION

Each international trip we are fortunate enough to take, we exclaim, “That was the best!” This one, however, pushed the limits of incomparability. We visited two relatively small, distinctively different countries: in State Department parlance, one in Southeast Asia and one in South Asia. Burma/Myanmar is bordered by China, India, Thailand, Laos and Bangladesh, as well as 1,200 miles along the Bay of Bengal, while Bhutan is landlocked and bordered by only China and India.

We were invited to join a wonderful group; mostly bound by their passion for Duke University and for traveling with the Harveys as arranged by Fritzi Kallop. That list is included on the inside cover, which also shows how our group diminished over the trip from 16 to 10 and finally to 6. Few of us had ever visited Myanmar or Bhutan; all were united around our interest in the countries, cultures and histories.

In many respects, Myanmar remains a world apart. One of the most fascinating aspects of travel in Myanmar is the opportunity to experience a corner of Asia that, in many ways, has changed little since British Colonial times (e.g. no ATMs until the day we arrived and very limited use of credit cards). Still, Myanmar is a troubled land. In 2011, following the previous year’s election, a quasi-civilian government was sworn in and Aung San Suu Kyi, daughter of the former Burmese Army General, was released from house arrest. The tourist boycott that persuaded many to stay clear of Burma during the military regime, had been lifted. Keep in mind that the long-suffering people are everything that military government is not: gentle, humorous, engaging, considerate and passionate. It’s clear they want to play a part in the world. Indelible impressions: climactic diversity (40th largest country in the world), a longing for an optimistic future and a sense that whatever progress is made, will be accomplished by the Burmese people themselves.

On the other hand, Bhutan is a sanctuary of harmonious evolution in the heart of the foothills of the Eastern Himalayas. The country’s history stretches back to the origin of Buddhism, and its deeply spiritual people are earthy, enterprising, prosperous and delightfully humorous. They live in harmony with nature and have evolved a unique identity, derived largely from a religious and cultural heritage steeped in the concept of the importance of Gross National Happiness (GNH). Forest covers approximately 72% of the land; 51% is government protected. And yet, Bhutan is known as the “Land of the Thunder Dragon”. The Bhutanese lifestyle truly revolves around spirits and demons, ritual and tradition and respect for the natural environment. Indelible impressions: Bhutanese architecture, prayer wheels, prayer flags and their every-day approach to the concept of “Gross National Happiness”.

So, how can one report on the amazing experience of just “sampling” these two fascinating countries: 10 days and 5 communities in Myanmar/Burma and 5 days and 3 communities in Bhutan?

First, we have our photos throughout this report but they don’t tell the full story even in the towns and villages we visited. I have been consistently reprimanded on the length of my diary reports. At the outset, I committed to shortening them this time. I have failed! My “cup” of impressions and experiences simply “runneth over”. So, to make amends and provide some shortcuts, I have added

summary histories and “fun facts” for each country and a tabular comparison of the two countries. Take your pick or read on.

A note about the food. There are so many ways the people of South Asia can prepare chilies, none of which accommodate most Western palates. Our guides were also considerate in working with the various hotel and restaurant staffs in toning down the “hot stuff” for those of us who can’t or won’t tolerate it. The four primary flavors of Southeast Asian cuisine are sour, salty, spicy and bitter. For the most part, we had rice, rice, rice and rice (brown, red and white), complimented with noodles, and lots of vegetables and fruit. The bananas are outstanding. Meats were limited to chicken and fried pork products. Most of us would have cheese omelets for breakfast, and soup at both lunch and dinner. The rest of the meals did not stray far from rice and vegetables. Curiously, I didn’t lose any weight!

A note on a common vice: chewing the doma nut (Indian name, pana). The nut is mixed with lime powder (the ash, not the fruit) and the whole concoction is rolled up in a heart-shaped betel leaf and chewed slowly. It’s a bittersweet, mildly intoxicating concoction, and it stains the mouth and teeth bright red. You can see the blood-like stains resulting from spitting the juice all over the streets and even in the temples. As far as we know, our group did not indulge!

THE COMMON THREAD: BUDDHISM ↘ The world’s principal religions and spiritual traditions may be classified into a small number of major groups, although this is by no means a uniform practice. While only 6% of the world is believed to be Buddhist, our journey was all about Buddhism and its traditions.

Faith and superstition go hand in hand in both Myanmar and Bhutan. Roughly 90% of the people in both countries are Buddhist but many also pay heed to ancient animist beliefs in natural spirits. The locals we met are proud of their traditions and are keen to discuss them. Freedom of religion is guaranteed under each country’s constitution. However, Buddhism is given special emphasis.

The Mon people (migrated from India 11,000 years ago and settled in the southwest of Myanmar on the Andaman Sea) were the first in Myanmar to practice Theravada (meaning Doctrine of the Elders) Buddhism, the oldest and most conservative form of the religion. King Asoka, the great Indian emperor, is known to have sent missionariess during the 3rd Century BC. A second wave is thought to have arrived via Sinhalese missionaries between the 6th and 10th centuries.

By the 9th century, the Pyu of northern Mynamar were combining Theravada with elements of Mahayana (Great Vehicle) and Tantric Buddhism brought from their homelands in the Tibetan Plateau. During the early Bagan era (11th C.), Bamar king, Anawrahta decided that the Buddhist practice in his realm should be “purified” of all non-Theravada elements. It never completely shed Tantric, Hindu and animist elements, but remains predominantly Theravada.

Theravada Buddhism (also practiced in Cambodia, Laos, Sri Lanka and Thailand) differs from Hinduism, Judaism, Islam and Christianity in that it is not centered on a god or gods but rather, exists as a psycho- philosophical system. Today, it covers a wide range of interpretations of the basic beliefs, which all start from the enlightenment of the Siddhartha Gautama, a prince-turned-ascetic and referred to as the Buddha in northern India beginning around 2500 years ago.

In the Theravada school, it’s believed that the individual strives to achieve nirvana, rather than waiting for all humankind being ready for salvation as in the Mahayana (Large Vehicle) school. The Mahayana school does not reject Theravadism; instead it claims it has extended it. The Theravadans see Mahayana as a misinterpretation of the Buddhist’s original teachings. Of the two, Theravada is more austere and ascetic and, some might say, harder to practice.

Buddhism is inscribed into the landscape of Bhutan – prayer flags, white-and-red chortens (stupa -like structures built to house relics) and images of Buddhist saints carved into the rock dot the countryside. To understand Bhutan it is essential to have a basic understanding of Buddhism. The experience of entering a dzong or monastery, or even a private household shrine room, will be enriched by understanding Buddhist concepts, and how these are encapsulated in some of the common religious images and practices encountered in Bhutan.

The Buddhism of Bhutan has a complex and rich visual tradition that can seem overwhelming. The bright and intricate mandalas decorating temple entrances, wrathful protective deities and the Wheel of Life all serve the same purpose: to encapsulate and display basic Buddhist teachings.

Buddhism is perhaps the most accommodating of the world’s religions. As Buddhism has spread, it has adapted to local conditions, creating new schools of thought. However, its basic tenets have remained the same and all schools of Buddhism are united by their faith in the value of the original teachings of Sakayamuni (Sakya Thukpa), the historical Buddha.

Buddhism originated in north central India around the 6th or 5th century BC, from the teachings of Sakyamuni Buddha. When he was born, the local religion was based on Brahminism. Some Brahmins (in order to purify themselves before performing rituals to their gods) would wander in remote areas and engage in ascetic practices – fasting, practicing yogic techniques and meditation. The young Siddharthaa Gautama, who would become known as the Buddha, was one of many wandering ascetics. His teachings became the basis for this new religion.

Little is known for certain about Siddhartha Gautama. According to legend his parents, King Suddhodana and Queen Maya, lived in a small kingdom called Sakya, which lay on the border between the present- day states of Nepal and India. Shortly after his birth, a wandering ascetic prophesied to King Suddhodana that the young prince would either be a world-conquering king or a liberator of living beings from suffering. The king took various precautions to ensure that his son would not follow a spiritual path. However, the young prince grew restless and during various excursions from his palace, Siddhartha Gautama saw a number of examples of suffering that inspired him to escape from his palace life.

After fleeing the palace, Siddhartha became a wandering ascetic, fasting and meditating. Finally at Bodhgaya in Bihar, India, Siddhartha began meditating beneath a bo (papal) tree, declaring that he would not stop until he had achieved enlightenment. He had realized there must be a middle path between the extremes of his former life in the palace and the ascetic practices he had been taught.

As dawn broke on the morning of his third night of meditation, Siddhartha became a Buddha (an awakened one).

The Four Noble Truths underpin Buddhist philosophy and are the basic tenets about ignorance and enlightenment, suffering and freedom set forth by the Buddha in his first formal discourse in Sarnath:

1. Life is suffering 2. Desire for things to be other than they actually are. That is, Buddha taught, that in order to be liberated from suffering, we need to abandon our delusion and selfish actions. 3. With the cessation of desire and attachment, we are able to break the cycle of rebirth and suffering and reach the state of nirvana 4. True Path is the truth of the path leading to cessation

This doctrine is the foundation on which the whole path to liberation and enlightenment is built.

Heavy stuff? Yes, exacerbated by the different interpretations and schools of Buddhism. Based on our travel guide books and tour guides, (not always consistent), the Burmese practice Theravada or Hinayana, and the Bhutanese practice Mahayana, which emphasizes compassion and the liberation of all living beings. Yet another school, Tantrism, emerged from Mahayan around AD 600. In Bhutan, many of the ritual objects and the images in the monasteries and temples are derived from Tantric teachings. All of this, at least in Bhutan, is complicated by the different Buddhas, Bodhisattvas (“hero of enlightenment”), protective deities and historical figures, not to mention the five kinds of prayer flags, (blue, green, red, yellow and white) and the equally ubiquitous prayer wheels, covered with printed prayers, which are supposedly repeated each time the wheel is turned. Some are powered by hand, some by water and some by the sun (like the little golden one on the dashboard of our bus).

You cannot visit Myanmar or Bhutan without taking Buddhism seriously; it is the fabric of their culture, their lives, their art and architecture. Still, on top of that, it was a real challenge for me to assimilate the concept of Gross National Happiness (GNH) to measure development projects and programs in terms of society’s greater good, thereby viewing economic growth, not as an end but rather as a means of achieving more important ends.

In all of this, we were influenced by our guides and other people we met:

Our Bhutanese guide said “Buddhism is not a religion; it’s a philosophy”. Our Burmese guide when asked a question about Myanmar’s ranking as one of the poorest countries in the world said “Burma is not poor; only its people are poor”, as he described the richness of the religion, culture, climate diversity, etc. Our Bhutanese guide put it this way “wisdom plus power equals compassion” A sign in the forest at the foot of the Tiger’s Nest climb read “Nature is the source of all happiness” Signs throughout Myanmar call out “warmly welcome, take care of our tourists”

However defined, our traveling band of knowledge seekers, our original group of 16, reduced near the end, to only 6, went away “happy”, challenged and fully rewarded by the culture, scenery and friendly people of two “emerging”(albeit with different aspirations), countries in Southeast Asia.

COMPARISON: MYANMAR AND BHUTAN

Official Name Myanmar Bhutan

Population 60M 700K

Border Neighbors China, India, Bangladesh, Laos, Thailand China, India

Form of government Republic of the Union of Myanmar Kingdom of Bhutan (constitutional monarchy)

Joined UN 1948 1971

US diplomatic relationship Embassy in Yangon None

Principal Religion Buddhism Buddhism

Size of country 678,500 km2 38,394 km2

Visitors per year (approx) 1,500/day 50/day

Current Capital Nay Pyi Taw Thimphu

No. Armed Forces 488k 16k

Literacy Rate (source: UNESCO) 90% 60%

No. Athletes sent to 2012 Olympics 17 1

National Sport Martial Arts Archery

BURMA – HISTORY

850 BC Abhiraja of the Sakiyan clan from India founded Tag uang (127 miles N. of Mandalay). 3rd c BC The Mon migrated into the Irrawaddy Delta from Thailand/Siam (from China before that) to establish their capital, Thetan. First contact with Bhuddism. 849 AD Bagan is founded. 1044 “Golden period” kicked off by King Anawrahta with conquests of Mon Kingdom and adoption of Buddhism. Bagan was the capital of First Burmese Empire. 1290 Marco Polo became possibly the first “westerner” to travel to central Burma. 1551 The “warrior king”, Bayinnoung, conquered the Shan people and reunited all of Burma as the Second Burmese Empire. 1752 King Alaungpaya launched the third and final Burmese Dynasty. 1826 The Treaty of Yandabo concluded the first Anglo-Burmese War. 1852 Second Anglo-Burmese War for control of Lower Burma. 1885 Third Anglo-Burmese War results in the end of the Burmese monarchy, with Britain conquering Mandalay and Burma becoming an “administrative province” of Britain. 1941-45 Aung San (Aung San Suu Kyi’s father) founded the Burmese Army to oust the British; then turned his army against the Japanese (under whom he had originally trained) during WW II to support the British. Later, he formed the Anti- Fascist People’s Freedom League (AFPFL) to fight for Burmese independence from Japan. Aung San and six colleagues were assassinated by rivals in 1947 in the old colonial secretariat building, still a shrine to the general. 1947 Panglong Agreement was signed guaranteeing ethnic minorities the freedom to choose their political destiny. 1948 Burmese people fought for the right to be independent of the British commonwealth and were granted that right in January, 1948. A civilian Government lasted from 1948 – 1962 with a short hiatus from 1958-1960. 1958 With the Burmese parliament in chaos, General Ne Win was invited to form a “caretaker government”. 1964 Ne Win begins the process of isolating Burma from the rest of the world. 1988 A military coup resulted in the formation of the State Law and Order Restoration Council (SLORC). 1989 The ruling junta changed the name of the state from Burma to Myanmar, an older, written form dating back centuries, claiming that was more ethnically inclusive and without colonial baggage. While the United Nations and the world generally accepted the change, the US and a few others did not, arguing that this change was the product of an “illegitimate military government”. 1990 The National League for Democracy (NLD), led by Aung San Suu Kyi, conclusively won the first national election in 3 decades but the military refused to relinquish power. Suu was placed under house arrest in Yangon for five years. 1995 Aung San Suu Kyi was released from house arrest. 1997 US and Canada impose investment sanctions against Myanmar, SLORC changes its name to State Peace and Development Council, and Myanmar joins ASEAN. 2006 Capital moved from Yangon to Nay Pyi Taw (“Royal Capital”), a new city still under construction in central Myanmar. 2007 The “Saffron Revolution” grew out of concern for natural gas prices rising 500% and with the formation of the All Burma Market Alliance (ABMA), who denounced the ruling government as an “evil military dictatorship” and refused to give alms to military officials. With 3,000 people arrested and 31 dead, the protests were finally squashed 2008 The second deadliest cyclone in recorded history tore across the Ayeyarwady Delta leaving 2 million without shelter, food or drinking water. Myanmar’s military government refused to allow foreigners to deliver aid. 2011 General Thein Sain was sworn into office as President heading up a quasi-civilian government.

BHUTAN – HISTORY

1500 – 2000 Present day Bhutan inhabited by nomadic herders who seasonally migrated between low-lying BC valleys and alpine pastures. 6th C AD Animist Bon religion established across the Himalayan region (includes several valleys of what is now Bhutan). 7th C AD Buddhism established with first temple built in 659 AD, including Kyichu Lhakhang (we visited on 1/19/13). 9th C AD Many Tibetan Buddhists (in fear of persecution) take up refuge in Bhutan. 1184 – 1251 Life span of Lama Phajo Drukgom Shigpo, who established Drupka Kagya as dominant school of Buddhism in Bhutan, a distinctive form of Buddhism. 1450-1521 Life span of much-heralded Pema Lingpa, most important discover of sacred texts and artifacts in Bhutan. 1455-1529 Life span of Lama Drukpa Kunley, the “Divine Madman”, who traveled throughout Bhutan proclaiming an unconventional approach to Buddhism on life (we visited his fertility shrine on 1/18/13). 1627 Portuguese Jesuits were the first European visitors to Bhutan. 1637 Punakha Dzong constructed as second dzong built in Bhutan, which we visited in repaired state on 1/19/13; Punakha was capital of Bhutan until mid 1950s. 1783 Captain Samuel Turner leads a grand British Raj expedition to Bhutan and Tibet. 1826 Bhutan and Britain start bickering over the sovereignty of the southern Bhutan hills. 1856 Bhutan and Britain go to war over the Duars, (the southern range bordering India) finally resolved with the Treaty of Sinchula. Bhutan’s territory is greatly reduced. 1897 The great Assam earthquake destroys the dzongs and many original manuscripts in Punakha. 1907 Ugyen Wangchuck unanimously elected as the hereditary ruler of Bhutan; he died in 1926. His son Jigme Wangchuck became second king of Bhutan in 1927 (and died in 1952). 1910 The Treaty of Phunakha was signed guaranteeing Bhutan’s sovereignty and giving Britain a hand in its external relations. 1949 Bhutan signs a treaty with newly independent India and gains a small corner of land bordering the region known as Duars (southern Bhutanese hills). 1961 Bhutan warily emerges from self-imposed isolation and begins a process of controlled development, undertaking modernization. 1971 Bhutan joins the UN as a full member (after 3 years of “observer status”). 1998 King Jigma Sungye Wangchuck transfers full executive authority to an elected Council of Ministers. 2007 First-ever election of National Council (upper house) and a year later, election of the National Academy (lower house) as well as the Constitution of the Kingdom of Bhutan was adopted in 2008. 2009 Bhutan and India agree on construction of 10 new hydropower projects in Bhutan to have been completed by 2012.

JANUARY 4 -6: HELLO, SINGAPORE AND YANGON/RANGOON

Founded in 1943, Singapore Airlines operates a terrific fleet, comprising 101 aircraft with 5 different models ranging in seating capacity from 100-470. We were fortunate enough to fly nonstop from Newark to Singapore (over 10,000 miles) in one of their 100-passenger, all business – class A340-500s in little more than 17 hours. We flew eastward at around 39,000 feet, mostly averaging 600mph right over Afghanistan and the Bay of Bengal, arriving in Singapore 30 minutes early. Aside from the fact that I didn’t have the required blank pages in my passport for Myanmar immigration officials, everything went smoothly, as we boarded another Singapore Airline flight for the two hour trip to Yangon, where we were greeted with fair skies and 93oF temperature.

The Strand is a classic British colonial era hotel. It exudes a sense of luxury and old-world grace. High ceilings, polished wooden floors and spacious rooms are complimented by excellent service. Within an hour, we had unpacked for the first of ten times or so and were in the lobby to meet our group of 16 fellow travelers and Ken, our guide. The Strand is on the waterfront, next to the Australian Embassy, which in turn, is next to the British Embassy.

Our bus took us to the Padonmar Restaurant on Kha-Yae-Bin Road for a typical Burmese lunch , following which we went to a money-changer where we got the good rate of 847kyat (pronounced chat)to the US$1.00 and then on to a shopping mall! Judith’s and my goal was to find an image of a standing monk, similar to our own Egilio. We have always believed he was Burmese and probably some level of a monk. We brought photos of him and our guide thinks he is a “hermit”, rather than a monk. The shopkeepers we asked for information said Egilio is certainly an antique and it’s unlikely we would find something similar in contemporary carving – only in a museum. We were not successful in finding a similar figure, but it was a lot of fun looking.

We next visited the Cathedral of Royal Trinity before reaching our destination: the Shwedagon Pagoda, with its glistening golden stupa that towers (98 meters high) over the city and is the spiritual center of the country. This 68 acre complex is a haven for barefooted, camera-happy visitors and for praying Buddhists. Everyone is still talking about

President Obama’s visit there that took nearly 60 minutes of his 6 hour fly-in; the barefoot requirement was a real challenge for the President’s security team! The top pinnacle of the stupa boasts the world’s largest diamond and is covered with rubies and diamonds without protection from the birds, who nest (and more) all over it. While currently under consideration, this site is not yet under UNESCO’s protection.

Our Welcome Dinner had been planned but everyone was exhausted, so it was unanimously agreed that we’d seen and done enough for one day. We had a shower, a drink (or two) in the Strand bar, where Luly joined us for a light supper and were in bed by 7:30pm. We slept 11 hours!

JANUARY 7: YANGON – THE BRITISH INFLUENCE

Yangon (formerly Rangoon) has a population of 6 million, compared to Mandalay’s 1.5million and the whole country’s 60 million. The people are uniformly happy and always return your glance with a smile. It doesn’t take you long to learn “mingguhlaba”: have a good day. During the British occupation (1852- 1948), driving on the left hand side was the common practice. Following Independence, in 1948, the Burmese shifted back to driving on the right hand side. The only problem is that 80% of their vehicles still have their steering on the right hand side!

Over 75% of Yangon’s population are Buddhist, 8% Christian, 7% Muslim and 3% Hindu. When the British left, the country started losing ground, exacerbated by a socialist government (see History recap). With new reforms and a “free” election, there is some optimism, although the government is not yet spending enough on education and rebuilding. Instead, starting in 2006, they have been building a new capital city, Nay Pyi Taw. At a cost of billions of dollars, they expect to complete the project in 2015. Six months ago, the US established an embassy, in Yangon, our first in 60 years. The “diplomats” all intend to stay in Yangon. The Burmese flag is yellow (for religion), green (for agriculture) and red (for bravery) with a center white star.

We began this day with an educational walking tour of many of the colonial period buildings – in various states of repair and disrepair. Two hundred eighty buildings have been given “Heritage” status. Two caught my attention in particular:

Imperial Court (circa 1900), particularly with its roof decorations of lions and a statue of Queen Victoria. The latter was removed after Independence. The Oberoi Hotel may purchase this property Town Hall - a wonderful, freshly-white-painted building

(circa 1720)

We also drove around Sule, the center of the city and past the Sunni Mosque (circa 1855). Next we headed to the Kalaywa Tawya Monastery, where over 3,000 monks and novices reside. Our timing was critical as they were about to partake of their midday meal, which is the last of the day. Again, lots of photo taking, of both the novice monks in red sarongs and the young nuns in pink ones. Each boy will consider entering monkhood twice (before and after age 18). Education is provided even if they only take part in short “camps”. The older monks learn Pali, a common language for all monks, not just Burmese.

Judith and I left our group briefly at this point. They were going to the Gitameit Music Center, started in 2003 by American pianist Kit Young and colleagues from Myanmar in order to build a supportive community of musicians and audiences locally. Our destination, however, was the Centana Educational Foundation, located in the YMCA International House. We met with Kyaw Kyaw Thac, In-Country

Program Coordinator/Myanmar, whom we had had dinner with in New York a month ago. We also met with the most gracious Executive Director of the Learning Center, Tin Hla Kyi (“Joan”). Joan, who was a fellow 1961 graduate of the Methodist School with Aung San Suu Kyi, is a Professor of Economics and is passionate about the mission of Centana (means “good will”), which is “the development through education of its people”. The School was

initially funded by the Dickerson family of Princeton, NJ (see January 12). It has developed a Scholarship Fellows program, which has not worked particularly well in the US, because many “Fellows” who have come to the States to study do not return to Myanmar. In keeping with its mission, the school only accepts students with a minimum of a high school degree. There are seven teachers (all volunteer) and two administrators; one paid, one volunteer.

We walked to the hotel – you see a lot more that way (not really, because you have to keep your eyes glued to the sidewalk, which is treacherous)—and talked a lot about our morning’s experience over lunch at The Strand.

Judith and I met for dinner that evening, with Miriam Segal, introduced to us by our good NYC friend, Mary St. George. What followed were the most interesting coincidences:

1. Miriam was born in Israel , raised in Australia, spent time in Hong Kong and eventually came to New York, where she had a very successful career in retail at Bergdorf’s. 2. Much to our surprise, Miriam took us to her former home for dinner which has been transformed into one of Yangon’s most famous eateries! You guessed it! It was the Padonmar! Miriam was wearing a fabulous necklace of golden running horses and charmed us throughout a lovely dinner of “butter fish”, a local specialty. 3. Sonny Aung Khim, owner of the restaurant, dined with us and, afterward, showed us all around the facility, featuring countless photos of Sonny and various international celebrities. George Soros had dined with him only the night before! Sonny is a descendant of the original royal family of Burma. 4. Miriam also has an apartment in Manhattan! And spends part of each year there.

Some small world – and the dinner was spectacular, especially the butter fish. After we had eaten most of the flesh, they poured a chili sauce over the remains to make a traditional soup!

JANUARY 8 – MOVING DAY

Bags outside our hotel room at 4:15 AM; bills paid, breakfast boxes collected and on the bus by 4:45!

Asia Wings Airways, inaugurated in January 2011, took us to Mandalay by way of Bagan. It was an hour’s drive to Mandalay, mostly by impressive highway. Mandalay gets one-half the annual rainfall of Yangon, so there was clear evidence of good, much needed irrigation. The countryside is well farmed; we passed Toddy palms (best for sugar), bananas, mango and lots of stupas. The countryside is communally farmed with the land rented from the government. Some of the farming is quite primitive; for example, Brahman bulls (the ones with the hump) pulling carts and water buffalo pulling the plows. We mostly saw egrets in the ponds; ironwood trees are abundant.

En route, we stopped at Mahamuni Pagoda, the most revered Buddhist shrine in “up country” and noted for its bronze images and golden Buddha. The bronze pieces are surviving relics of war, including a three-headed elephant. It is customary to “contribute” gold to the Buddha by purchasing and applying a small, very thin wafer of gold leaf to the Buddha, now some 17 inches thicker than it was originally.

Later, we checked out a shop, where strong young men with large sledge hammers, Fashion gold into these very thin gold leafs. We also stopped at a shop selling wood carvings, and richly embroidered tapestries, called kalags.

Then on to lunch.

As we approached the Sedona Hotel, we saw a very impressive brick wall 8 ft. high and 8 km long, surrounded by a moat. This is the ruins of the Royal Mandalay Palace. The palace was built in the 1850s and has been in ruins since WW II. The grounds are used by the military, so we were not allowed to enter. The wall was beautifully lit at night with seasonal Christmas-type lights.

We checked in at the Sedona Hotel, which sits on four acres of beautifully landscaped gardens in the center of the city. After a short rest, we took off to explore the Kuthodaw Pagoda (built in 1850- 1855) with 729 stupas, each one inscribed with a Buddhist canon, thereby covering the entire Buddhist teaching canon (i.e. the “world’s biggest book”). Only four Burmese monks have mastered (i.e. memorized) all 729 slabs. This pagoda comes complete with the usual golden stupa, which we visited barefooted and with cameras clicking.

We boarded the same kind of open trucks that carry dozens of local people jammed into their flatbeds to go to the top of Mandalay Hill, supposedly equivalent to 729 steps. Once there, shoeless, and aided by an extensive escalator system, we were at the top to view the valley below, including the setting sun and the Snake Temple. It was crowded, but very exciting. A Thai dinner finished off a great day.

JANUARY 9: MANDALAY

This morning we walked through much of an “authentic” market with few tourists and found a very clean, friendly and abundantly stocked maze of shops of all kinds. Mandalay has always been the center for trade in Burma. It’s easily believed in this Zegyo Market with its seemingly endless colors, smells, fresh produce, bowls of rice, dried local fish and handicrafts. The Burmese people are cheerful and friendly. The women and girls wear a paste on their face which protects their skin from the harsh sun and acts as a moisturizing cream. It’s our opinion that it works. As in most Asian countries we’ve visited, the Burmese people are able to squat indefinitely. They are devoted to their beautiful children and obesity simply doesn’t exist. Except for their teeth, because of the betel nut chewing, they seem healthy and content to us.

There are three important Buddhist animal symbols: elephants, lions and the peacock. You can see them stacked up one on the other everywhere. Burma is still known for its real elephants, second in number only to India. Some 9,000 are found here, mostly in the north. Three thousand of them are trained to help in teak lumbering and 6,000 remain wild. There are no lions in Burma and we didn’t see any peacocks..

We then checked out marble sculpture making, and found that these craftsmen are not protected by any kind of OSHA style requirements. Thick, white dust covers everything and anyone who has a respiratory problem will not be comfortable. Huge blocks of marble that have already taken shape as a Buddha or an elephant are waiting for the finishing touches . Some are boldly painted, others remain white. We also visited the all-wooden Shwenandaw Kyaung Monastery, noted for its fine teak

carvings. This is now a Heritage site and has no monks in residence, but we still had to take our shoes off. We capped a fascinating morning with a Chinese lunch.

Later that afternoon, we bussed through Mandalay and through some countryside to Amarapura, which along with fine pagodas, ruins of an old palace, and shops specializing in cotton and silk longyis (Burmese style sarongs) and many other items. The ladies settled in.

We also went to the 190-year old U Bein Bridge, which for nearly one mile, crosses a man-made lake. It happens that there is a seismic fault in the area which damaged several royal palaces. Finally, the king decided to move to the safer Mandalay area but left much of his teak construction lumber for the locals to use, which they used to make this bridge, named after the king’s friend. From the bridge and from a large number of exotic looking boats, a large crowd watched the sun set behind a group of pagodas. Back at the hotel, Judith and I stole away for a quiet (“Western”) dinner alone.

JANUARY 10 – ALL ABOARD!

Bags outside of our room at the quite reasonable time of 8:30am! We were “on the road to Mandalay” River pier by 9:30am, retracing much of the rural scenery we had enjoyed on the previous afternoon’s journey to Amarapura. We boarded the RV Paukan, a colonial-style Irrawaddy River boat for a sixty mile journey south to Bagan. Restored in 2007, the Paukan has four decks and a capacity of 55 passengers, supported by 28 staff. Our cabin was air conditioned, had en-suite bath and hand-woven fabrics for curtains and bed covers. The flooring was highly polished, probably teak, so to protect it, we were required to wear slippers on board. The Paukan draws only 1.4 meters, which is good because the Irrawaddy River is quite shallow. It must be a sight during the monsoon season.

We spent the afternoon sitting on the upper deck. While the Irrawaddy is muddy and not very pretty, it wanders through some great farming land. At first the shores were dotted with stupas. We passed under a new bridge built three years ago and then under the older, smaller one, built by the British. Tugs are everywhere, pushing large loads of lumber. Dredging the shallow waters of the Irrawaddy is primitive, but significant, as are the many long-tail fishing boats with tiny, noisy motors. We enjoyed watching women washing their clothes, sometimes disrupted by the Paukan’s wake. There were lots of tents on the sand bar running along the river; it is not clear how permanent these “residences” are. Surely, during the monsoon, these areas would be under water. There were very few birds.

In the late afternoon, we stopped at Yandabo , a village specializing in clay pot making. We enjoyed seeing the full process and getting a feel for this self-contained community. The “pots” that were being made were large and appeared to be used for plantings or, perhaps, collecting rain water. This village did have its own small well and pump. There was a game of soccer going on accompanied by vigorous and enthusiastic cheering.

Back on our boat, after disappointing dozens of would-be merchants, we all quickly changed into the hand-woven kimonos the boat provided as the “uniform” for our group photo. Clothing (other than the kimono) was optional, but most of us chose to layer – all except for Fred, whose idea this was in the first place. Attracted by the lights of our boat, millions of little white moth critters bombarded us. We had been warned to NOT open our windows or go on deck after dark, and they weren’t kidding! This was a serious visitation! You literally crushed thousands of these bugs under your feet. They were swept into snow-like drifts on deck the next morning. I guess they only live for one day and they must have chosen our boat to spend those last hours. Leaving the dining room to go to the “loo” required a guide and a “beater”. Dinner was excellent, however. We moored over night near the village of Shwe Nann Tint.

JANUARY 11 – “STUPA-FIED” IN BAGAN

By 6am, the Paukan had set sail for Bagan, seat of the Burmese dynasty in the 11th and 12th centuries. As we approached this ancient capital, we saw hundreds of pagodas perched on the hillside, many in different stages of decay. Once on shore, we were surrounded by temples (hollow) and stupas (solid), of brick, stucco and some sandstone. We also saw some archaeological digging for remains of the 11th century palace. Despite wars and the 1985 earthquake here (6.8 on the Richter scale), we were treated to four outstanding stupas or temples:

1. The highest temple in the area was 63 meters high. We purchased a sand painting to commemorate the occasion. 2. The major stupa at the center of the archaeological site, built in 5 levels with steps to the top. I stayed on the ground and took photos of the “daredevils” (Judith among them), as well as fields of stupas and a reclining Buddha. Until 1993, people lived in many of these stupas, at which point the government prohibited this practice, offering, instead a separate living site. 3. Ananda, the number 1 temple! Completed in 1095, it is whitewashed and gilded and is a beautifully preserved temple with four 4.5 meter high Buddhas, displaying each of the different mudras (hand positions) and protected by mammoth, beautifully carved wood doors. There were walkways though the temple with hundreds of Buddhas in walled crevices telling Buddha’s story. Outside, there were all kinds of animals on the roof “protecting” the Buddha, as well as a low pediment, again, telling the stories. With all the splendor and pertinences, this temple is perfectly proportioned. It’s my favorite temple. Judith also purchased a bird book of Burma. We have quite a collection of bird books from exotic places. 4. A 900-year old temple with the most amazing frescos and murals. It was simply breathtaking! In May, scholars will convene a conference here to study this work.

We capped off our morning with the best lunch in a charming restaurant right on a small river. But this time, the flood plains had given way to arid, desert-like scenery. Shortly afterwards, we were ensconced in the Thiripyitsaya Sakura Hotel, where we each had a villa overlooking the Irrawaddy River surrounded by subtropical gardens. This is a place designed to get in touch with your inner spirit!

Freshly unpacked and rested, and caught up in our diaries, we set out again at 4pm to climb to the top of another temple for the best vantage point for the sunset. When I found that the stairs had 12-15 inch risers and no handrail, both Judith and I demurred and focused on the lower levels of the temple and surrounding countryside. The sunset was just glorious. From there, we drove to a popular tourist restaurant, featuring a marionette performance and even more Burmese food. A bright spot of the evening was that Sarthak Das , Regional Director, South East Asia and Country Director, Papua New Guinea, of the Clinton Health Access Initiative (CHAI) joined us. CHAI has been invited to partner with the Burmese government, through their Ministry of Health. Maternal and child health care and HIV are major issues. Armed with Harvard, Yale (masters) and UNC (doctorate) degrees, he is very interested and committed to the betterment of people in Southeast Asia and the Pacific islands. His wife and three children are currently living in Papua New Guinea.

JANUARY 12 – NOT ON TOP OF OLD BAGAN

We arose at 4:45am for a much anticipated hot air sunrise balloon ride over the Bagan temples. When we arrived at the appointed site after the bumpiest of bus rides, we were told, based on their test balloons, that the winds were unpredictable and our flight was cancelled. Disappointed but certain that the right call had been made, we bumped our way back to the hotel for an early breakfast and a wonderful walk through the hotel’s gardens bordered by the Irrawaddy. We spotted lots of birds, and identified three species which we think were white wagtail, Asian pied starling and barn swallow. Our original start for the day was moved up an hour to 8:30am, and we set out on a 1hr 45 min drive to the hamlet of Salae. On the way, we stopped at Chaulk, a town of approximately 40,000 for their Saturday market; fascinating. We liked the entrance sign: “Warmly welcome and take care of our tourists”.

One of our fellow travelers even got his face “chaulked”, a common sun protection practice of men and women, where they use the bark of a local tree to make a paste. Our destination in Salae was a well-preserved teak -wood monastery serving as a museum. It was truly worth the drive! The drive itself was quite interesting: we passed many mango orchards, irrigated spring onions and oil drilling rigs (a state-owned joint venture with Singapore and Korea). We concluded our morning with a wonderful lunch where we ran into the founder of the Centana Learning Center, where we had visited on January 7. Her name is Lois Young Dickerson. We must be on the same tourist route or it’s a very small world!

What remained of the afternoon, was taken up by massages (for both of us), a facial for Judith and lots of bird watching; what a charming site. Judith wore her new sarong outfit to join our fellow travelers for dinner at the Black Bamboo. Two mimosas each, a variety of local specialties and homemade ice cream, all for US$20/per person!

JANUARY 13 – ON TO THE LAKE COUNTRY

Bags out at 6am. As we left at 6:45, we were greeted by a wonderful sunrise and a sky full of balloons. Apparently, the wind currents were behaving this morning, and the customers were having a wonderful view of this “city of 4 million pagodas”. Next time.

From Bagan airport, we flew to Mandalay and on to Helo Airport (located at 3,000 ft altitude), in the Shan State, from where we bussed for over an hour to Nyuang Shwe (at 4,000 ft altitude). The countryside was fertile and well farmed, including rice, grapes (for wine), sugar cane (for rum) , dragon fruit, mangos, bougainvillea, etc. This area appears to be much more prosperous than the arid desert- like conditions we left behind in Bagan. The houses are made of concrete block and/or brick. We traveled for 40 minutes or so in private long-tail boats through canals bordered mostly by beautiful tall grasses (the height of sugar cane) to the northeastern shore of Inle Lake. We were rowed to the dock at the Inle Princess Resort, after pausing at a house on stilts to pick up our “leg rower”. Just like tug boats do in the New York harbor, we had to cut the tiny, noisy engine and be rowed in to the dock by one of these miraculous athletes. The rower stands precariously in the prow of the boat to propel the boat with a swirling motion of just one leg and both hands on the shaft of the single, long oar. He curls his foot around the oar as it dips into the water then pulls with both hands to make the boat go. We were told that this is unique to this area.

The delightful architecture of our hotel, opened in 1998, draws on the history, traditions and culture of the Shan people. It is exceptional! Our chalet, complete with ceramic fireplace and a huge bathroom featuring a small boat for a tub and shower was lovely and comfortable ; a place we could spend a week in easily. In the rear of our accommodation was a secluded area with a stone-decorated outdoor shower. We soon learned that, though chilly, it was easier to shower in this spot than the very slippery boat, which wasn’t all that much warmer. We have pictures! Our windows overlooked several ponds filled

with lotus blossoms; both yellow and pink. They close at night and open gloriously in the morning. While we have been fortunate, in our travels, to be treated to the best of accommodations, this creatively decorated resort, is the real thing; in Buddhist terms, the closest we’ll ever get to nirvana! The interior of our rooms and the public buildings are all masterfully painted with fruits, vegetables and landscape details. Sculpture everywhere. No stone left unturned in this one.

After lunch on the porch of the beautiful dining room with the most interesting sculptures and surrounded by the lake, we walked part of the grounds, including the extensive vegetable gardens. Later, we walked with our guide for two hours, stopping at a pot-making operation and checking out sugar cane harvesting, road construction work and several serious volleyball games (one using only head and feet). You ought to see the primitive way 8 men drive pilings in their bridge construction using just their own strength and pulleys. I guess we needed the exercise, but we were quite tired. We would gladly have ridden back in an ox-cart! We all had dinner together in the hotel’s lovely dining room.

JANUARY 14 – THE MOST BEAUTIFUL LAKE

At 6:30am, three of us, including Denver resident, Jane Nyman, met with, Camille, our bird guide, to explore all we could see from our boat in the canals and lake, and we saw plenty: ducks, king fishers, swamp hens, moorhens and coots, snipes, jacana, stilts, several kinds of gulls, harriers, cormorants, egrets and herons, shrikes, drongos, stone chats, mynas, swallows, bulbuls, a warbler, and wagtails - all indigenous and displayed on the following pages – plus the non-resident ferruginous duck. We also stopped at a bio- diversity station, where we had fruit and croissants and learned about the various fishing nets and cages. It was a great morning, and we arrived back at the hotel just in time to take off in our four-person long boat to Indein. Again, our leg rowers took us out to the station, a safe distance from the hotel, before starting the engine. On our way, we saw all kinds of fishing techniques; the most interesting was “herding” the fish toward the nets by splashing their paddles in the water. We passed by farming settlements and under wonderful bamboo bridges.

After walking through a “5-day”rotating market (and this was the fifth day), we explored the remains of a 16th century temple and 1,000 stupas built by one king, yet another aspect of Burma’s vast cultural wealth. As we climbed the hill, we found a hodge-podge of stupas in total decline and some being built (without a lot of supervision or “building ordinance”). Back on our boats, we stopped at Mr. Toes for lunch in Nam Pan village. We elected to take a boat straight back to the Inle Princess while the others stopped to visit silk weavers and visit an orphanage.

On the way back, we checked out the floating gardens in the lake, where villagers actually grow tidy rows of vegetables on the lake surface. Hydroponic farming at its best! We had a little rest, packed for an early getaway the next morning, and audited our bird sightings before taking part in our Farewell Dinner. The Dinner was held in a cave which, like the rest of Inle Princess was decorated with animals, flowers, fruits and vegetables in wall paintings, sculptures, etc.

Candle light flickering on the whitewashed walls studded with wine bottles completed the picture and was the perfect backdrop for farewell speeches and good byes to some of our departing friends. We topped off the evening with a little gin rummy and a swallow of scotch in front of a beautiful fire in our room. It had been quite a day!

We saw at least one of all these!

JANUARY 15 – MOVING DAY

Bags out at 6am (do these people never sleep later than 5 AM!) and on the water at 6:30. Another Long-tail to Nyaung Shwe through heavy mist and mostly, darkness (compared to the idyllic conditions the morning before); bus to Helo, taking time to watch primitive but very beautiful Shan papermaking; and then by Air Bagan back to Yangon. We enjoyed a wonderful drive through the northern, more gentrified part of this bustling city, where motorbikes, which had dominated the traffic over the last 4 days, are outlawed. Of note, we passed the US embassy and the home of Aung San Suu Kyi. Then, we visited Mei Thiha, an elaborate gem store, where Judith became the proud owner of beautiful ruby and diamond earrings. Having never celebrated Valentine’s Day in 42 years, these were intended to make up for that and all others going forward. Success!

We then went to lunch at INYA 1, a stylish restaurant, for the final celebration with our entire group. Some left from the restaurant and most of us did more city touring before going to the Yangon airport for our flight on Thai Air Asia to the Don Muang Airport in Bangkok, where we rode a bus for 45 minutes to the (new) Suvarnabhumi Airport, out of which we were to fly the next morning. We spent the night in the Novotel Airport Hotel, the world’s largest, including having a late dinner of some delicious soup, an appetizer and a couple of vodka and tonics. Jane joined us to compare bird notes.

JANUARY 16 – BACK INTO BUDDHIST COUNTRY

Another early start from Bangkok to Paro, Bhutan thanks to Druk Air. This airline started operations in 1983 and only launched their new route to Singapore in August 2012. On December 17, 1907, Druk Gyalpo Ugyen Wangchuck (King of Bhutan), ascended to the golden throne as the first Hereditary Monarch of the Kingdom of Bhutan. A genja (agreement) was offered to the Druk Gyalpo by the people’s representatives and important monastic and civil officials of the country. They affixed their seals on the genja, proclaiming their allegiance to, and belief in their leader. Henceforth, that day is aptly marked as the National Day of the Country.

On November 1, 2008, the fifth king of the Kingdom of Bhutan, His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck was ushered up to the Punakha Dzong (Palace of Holy Bliss). (We all called father and son King 4 and King 5 for clarity’s sake) At the entrance, His Majesty, the fourth king, Druk Gyalpo and the Je Khenpo (Chief Abbot) received the new king (King 5). On the following day, King 5 returned to Thimphu (the capital) and was received by the Prime Minister at the Lingkana Palace. Early the morning of November 6, the silence in the grand halls of the Tashichho Dzong (Fortress of the Great Religion) in the capital was broken by the prayers of the monks of the central monastic body. The air was filled with the incense offerings made to the guardian deities – and the show was on. His majesty joined the people and spoke directly to them, “Destiny has put me here. It is with immense gratitude and humility that at this young age (32), I assume the sacred duty to serve a special people and country”.

I offer this preamble to Bhutan, because it is Bhutan. The King and Queen (she’s 22 and gorgeous) are tremendously popular. He plays basketball in the streets with the people. He cares a lot, and is doing something about education, wellness and the environment. It was the Third King who established the county’s first legislature to promote democratic governance, abolished serfdom and improved communications with India (today, Bhutan’s number 1 ally). The Fourth King succeeded his father at age 16 (1972, but his official coronation didn’t take place until 1974); in 1982,King 4 married four sisters; transferred full executive authority to an elected Council of Ministers in 1998 and in 2005, he announced his intended abdication and plans for the succession of the crowned prince. As you can see, there has been real progress in bringing Bhutan into a new and challenging world without sacrificing this country’s sense of culture and purpose. By all accounts, His Majesty Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck, is up to the task.

Before we landed in Paro on the morning of January 16, we made a planned stop at Bagdogra, India, northwest of Bangladesh. About to land, we suddenly ascended and circled around for another try. The reason? - there was a dog on the runway! 30 minutes later, we were in Paro, population 35,000 and elevation 7,500 feet. We met our guides: Kelzang and Sonam Peljor (“SP”) and exchanged greetings: Kuzuzangpo (“hello”). Our transportation was a large Toyota bus. All traffic in Bhutan drives on the left hand side but they also have right hand steering! “ Mr. T”, our driver turned out to be our local hero! Reasons later.

After lunch, we toured the National Museum (Ta Dzong), which is housed in a 17th century watch tower, converted to a museum in 1961. The 2012 earthquake did serious damage, so about 50% of artifacts have been moved to another building where we saw:

1. A room of masks (painted pine wood) to chase the evil spirits, worn at festivals in the 18th c. (there are 21 different religious dances). 2. A room of Thangkas (exquisitely decorated religious banners mounted on Chinese silk), used to worship in homes 3. Natural history examples, including photographs of snow leopards, Himalayan blue sheep, Himalayan griffins, red pandas, wild pigs, and such birds as the gray-crested tit, great hornbill and blue-neck cranes, not to mention the magnificent Swallowtail Butterfly (the national butterfly of Bhutan!). We also learned that there are more than 650 glaciers and over 2,500 glacier lakes in Bhutan, and they have 46 species of rhododendrons. Spring must be wonderful!

We also learned that there are no accommodations in Bhutan for the handicapped! Step risers can be more than 15 inches, the treads can be as narrow as 6 inches, and there are no handrails. There is only one escalator in all of Bhutan.

Next stop was the Paro Dzong (fortress monastery built in 1646), near the National Museum. This is one of the finest examples of Bhutanese architecture, a blending of Church and State. As we entered the Dzong, our guides put on white scarves (kabney) to show their respects to the Administration. As we entered the temple, without shoes and cameras, our guides made three separate prayers: one each for the mind, body and speech. We were fascinated with the exquisite building trim

painting, which needs to be redone every 3-5 years, and with the countless prayer wheels. The Bhutanese celebrate with 108 (a magical and superstitious number) of these, where they cut down pine poles and bring to the venue, thereby memorializing the dead. At the bottom of the hill we crossed an old covered bridge and visited a religious art gallery, with the hope that they had at least an eastern style unisex toilet. (These diversions quickly became “happy stops”). Remember, there are twelve women and only four men in our group.

Next we drove 90 miles to Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital since 1952, over the most narrow, winding road which our guides claim is their “best highway”. Thimphu is Bhutan’s largest city with a population of 100,000 and elevation of 7,800 feet. The second largest city is Phuentsholing, near the border in India with 75,000 people. Along the way, we saw the many terraced rice paddies, which are used all year around to rotate with other crops like wheat and potatoes.

Unlike many modern cities, Thimphu has kept a strong national character in its architecture. It’s the home of the Kingdom’s royal family, government and civil service officers, a lot of monks and a growing middle class. We arrived at the Druk Hotel, which is being refurbished. Our bedroom was splendid. We settled in and had a “Chinese and Indian dinner”. We couldn’t stay awake long enough to finish our gin rummy marathon, but we did make a dent in our bottle of scotch, which has already flown (illegally) with us into four different countries. We just bought a duty free bag, put the unfinished bottle inside and sealed it and nobody blinked an eye. It was a pretty large bottle and too good to waste.

JANUARY 17 – THIMPHU

After breakfast, we motored to Sangay Gang for a spectacular panoramic view of the city. Prayer flags (mandhar) line the road and are everywhere. There are five different colors representing the five elements:

Red – fire Yellow – earth Green – vegetation Blue- water White – sky

As we learned the day before, they are made in India and printed and consecrated in Bhutan. Their role is to chase away evil forces and promote peace, prosperity and good luck (not to mention, to prolong life). They can also be used to memorialize those who have passed. In addition, the Bhutanese people build miniature stupas of clay (and sometimes, ashes) and place them in niches along the road. They have already been consecrated by a “lama”, an honorary title given to a man who is knowledgeable about religious questions.

We visited the Takin Sanctuary, Bhutan’s national animal, and supported by the World Wildlife Fund. The Takin is a unique animal closely associated with the Bhutanese religion, history and mythology. It is a mixture of gnu and a musk deer and s so befuddled taxonomists that they treat the Takin as a “category by itself”. Takins are only found in Bhutan, although there is one example in the San Diego Zoo, and their only predator is the snow leopard. The Takin Sanctuary is also home to Barking (small) and Samba (large) Deer but we didn’t see them. On the way back to the bus, we stopped at a silk weavers shop, and Judith got a beautiful gold silk scarf (colored with vegetable dye). She also had a glimpse of the inside of the family’s home. The husband is the zoo keeper, and the wife weaves the scarves and other very beautiful items. They live quite comfortably with three lovely little daughters, two of whom

spoke very good English. The third one lives, like most Bhutanese babies, strapped to her mother. No baby-sitters needed.

We next visited the Zilukha Nunnery , home to 30 nuns and supported by the government. Like monks, the nuns shave their heads and wear very similar robes but in different colors. Three of the nuns have completed their required three years, three months and three days meditation period and are allowed to have long hair; one very old nun spins the prayer wheel. They were chanting continuously while we were there, punctuated by the occasional bell tone. We finished a very interesting morning by visiting the National Library, housed in two buildings: one built in 1960 of stucco that houses national texts and the other brand new, also of stone, containing English texts. The library boasts the “world’s largest book” and two beautiful bowls: “bowl of friendship” and “ring of wisdom” (formally a ritual drum). There was also a rose garden which must be lovely in warm weather, and there is a conservation laboratory under construction.

After lunch at The Chew, across the street from the Changlimithang National Stadium (where His Majesty the King was received during his coronation, we watched archery practice, Bhutan’s national sport.

We then drove to the top of a mountain to see the nearly completed bronze Buddha. While we had glimpsed it from afar at our Sangay Gang lookout, seeing this massive sculpture (196 feet tall) up close was amazing. It’s the world’s highest Buddha and has been constructed and sponsored by a group from Hong Kong, where 500 separate components were fabricated, shipped to India, trucked to Thimphu (in 500 trucks) and assembled on site. The Sangay Buddha sits (as do all Buddhas) on a giant lotus pad and is highly visible throughout the valley.

We returned to our hotel, where we could wander the city and finally visit the Tashichhodzong. This dzong is the capitol building and the office of the reigning king, where he and Je Khenpo (supreme religious leader) rule side by side; they are both equally loved and venerated by the Bhutanese. Judith and I decided to pass on this last session. It was time to catch up on this journal.

As a roundup of disparate but relevant findings for the day, let me report that 80% of the population of Bhutan is Buddhist and 20% Hindu (mostly of Nepalese origin). Bhutan joined the United Nations as a full member in 1971, after spending 3 years holding observer status; we drove past the UN building in Thimphu on our way to lunch. India is a very important trading partner with Bhutan. They also help the Bhutanese military defend its borders with Tibet. Bhutan’s military numbers around 16,000; service is not compulsory.

The Bhutanese have strict building codes, including the use of earthquake-proof materials. Phallic symbols are included in the brightly painted decorations on the exterior of nearly all Bhutanese buildings and are strategically placed on either side of the doorways to homes and shops. Their purpose is to frighten away evil spirits. This is part of the story of “The Divine Madman” which I will get to later (see p.27). Most Buddhists seek medical help from an astrologist first, then the lama, and as a last resort, a doctor. Bhutan has a disappointing literacy rate of 60% but unemployment is only 3% (somewhat helped by the Indian/Bhutan dam projects). The Bhutanese are concerned about an increasing marijuana problem among their youth. A lot to ponder, so we rested and then celebrated dinner at the elegant Taj Tashi, where we were the only patrons and nearly froze to death!

JANUARY 18 – OVER THE MOUNTAINS - IN THE SHADOWS OF THE HIMALAYAS

Our destination, today, is Panakha, once the capital of Bhutan, and only two and one half hour’s drive away, reaching elevations of 10,300 feet and above. It was sunny with a temperature of 5o C (40 o F). Joining us for part of the trip was SP’s (our guide for our time in Bhutan) wife and 11 month old son, (Karma), who behaved perfectly. As we climbed out of Thimphu, we passed by the bronze Buddha, as well as Bhutan’s oldest fortress (dzong), built in 1637 and now used by the Institute for Language Studies. The road is OK, but suffers from endless hairpin curves; the forest we drove through for most of the route was mostly blue pine. Higher up, we encountered fir, cypress and oak.

The first village we came to was Oesepang, famous for its potatoes and apple trees. In the next village called Hongtso, there is a checkpoint for inspecting travelers but, we think it was really there to encourage travelers to buy the apples, oranges and yak cheese.

An hour out, we reached the Dochhu La Pass, where 108 stupas were erected by the Queen Mother in 2004, along with a magnificent temple overlooking the stupas, and prayer flags. The stupas are in memory of those lost in a battle, led by King 4 to bring down a Nepalese (mostly Maoist) challenge. The views of the Himalayan peaks are breathtaking; there are 11 of them, the highest at 7540 meters (nearly 25,000 feet). Just beyond the pass, we stopped for a tea break.

The next hour and a half took us through lovely countryside, meticulously decorated houses and terrace-farming everywhere, occupying all land with less than a 45 o incline and accounting for elaborate irrigation systems. Monasteries look down from the surrounding mountains. Still, 70% of the land is forest, mostly owned by the government. Farmers used to own “as far as the eye can see”. But the taxes on this land and crops eventually resulted in reducing ownership to ten acres and leasing the rest of the land, if any, from the government. It is interesting to note that if you can prove that you don’t have the resources to build a home, the government will grant you 5 acres at no cost, as well as give you the lumber from one tree, provided that you plant two seedlings to take its place.

We stopped at a village called Leobesa, to trek several miles across dormant rice fields and rushing irrigation ditches to Chimi Lhakhang, a fertility shrine built in the 15th century by Lama Drukpa Kumley, the “Divine Madman”. Drukpa Kumley’s outrageous antics and sexual exploits are legendary, and his temple is a favorite among couples wanting children. You have to walk on the ridges at the edge of each rice paddy. The going is rough and very narrow. Bodhi Tree

My Father’s Day LEKI trekking poles (thank you Susan) came in very handy. Our sure-footed group stopped for a photo with a rice straw pile as a backdrop. On the way back, we were routed through a quaint settlement, where I finally got a better sense of Bhutan’s “happiness” goal. We had a wonderful lunch in a restaurant overlooking this pastoral, almost religious scene. Our next stop was the exceptional Panakha Dzong, built in 1637 and renovated in 1976 due to damage caused by a fire. No nails or power tools were used in the reconstruction to better emulate the original and to continue the traditional building techniques. This is the second oldest dzong in Bhutan. You enter through a covered bridge, and are greeted by jacaranda and rubber trees. After climbing stairs (over 15 inch high treads) and observing huge bee hives fastened in the ornate windows above our heads, we were enchanted by a painting of the Four Harmony Friends: an elephant with a monkey riding on his back, a rabbit astride the monkey, and a bird perched atop the other three. In the center of the open courtyard, there was the usual huge bodhi tree, under which the Buddha is said to have achieved enlightenment. Every monastery has an off shoot of this original tree supposedly passed down over many centuries.

The central tower is for Administrative functions and is where the first royal coronation was conducted in 1907. The main temple is magnificent. There are three Buddhas front and center: Guru Rinpoche, Buddha and Padmasambhava (founder of Mahayana Buddhism). With the aid of wall paintings done only six years ago, our guide took us through the life of Buddha, circa BC 500, from his birth (from his mother’s right side) to his death, including his discovery of the Four Sufferings: birth, sickness, old age, death. Outside, we studied the Formation of the Universe and the 12 Originations: true nature, destiny by action, fearless, life devotion, human contact, emotion, desire, attachment, name and form, birth and death. Complicating all this, are the Three Poisons: snake (hatred), pig (ignorance) and bird (dismay), who will ultimately determine a person’s incarnation as a god, demi-god, ghost, or an animal. If you return in your present state, you will be only as tall as a finger and will only live for ten years. This is all quite a challenge for a once-a-week Episcopalian to understand.

Two rivers, Mo (mother) and Pho (father) join just below the dzong and only a few miles outside of Panakha. This is the location for the new hydro-electric plant the Bhutanese are building in cooperation with India. In fact, Bhutan has plans to boost its megawatt capacity from 5 to 15 in the next 5 to 10 years; very ambitious. At an elevation of 4,000 feet, Panakha has a population of 40,000 and served as Bhutan’s capital for over 300 years until 1962.

There were all kinds of water birds along the beautiful turquoise river. We identified the ruddy-shell ducks, common myna and cormorants. We did see a shrike just outside the dzong. We finally retired at the Uma Panakha, owned by the Queen’s mother. We had been warned that it was only two-stars, which translates to very little heat in the bedroom, and no ice in the bar!

JANUARY 19 – SNOW ON THE PASS!

On this momentous day, we headed back to Paro, retracing the previous day’s journey over the mountains toward Thimphu. It started drizzling in Panakha at 6am when we left, which then translated to serious snow in the mountains. By 10am or so, the Dochhu La Pass had 3-4 inches of snow and driving conditions were extremely slippery and the police, short of closing the pass, reduced all driving to one lane. This required that only so many cars could go in one direction while all other cars going the other direction waited, and the reverse. Keep in mind, there are no guard rails and we’re approaching 10,000 feet. Our driver was superb, (former driver of a Coca Cola truck), but still, we spent a lot of time in a holding pattern. Magnificent scenery made the wait a little more palatable and our fellow traveler’s sense of humor made the down time sort of fun. From a female point of view, imagine trying to create a “happy stop” while parked beside the road along with multiple other vehicles. Sight angles were important!

Some of the smaller Bhutanese cars and imports had considerable trouble and others would gather around to push them, or just throw snowballs at each other. Motor bikes were useless! We became friendly with a German man (who our friends saddled with the moniker “MIT”), who was helping and counseling the less fortunate, including getting them to throw road-side dirt and stones on the more treacherous inclines. At one point, he was tossing snowballs at us; on another, he brought rice chips for us to eat. You’d have to be there to appreciate the irony and confusion, but it all worked out. It took five hours to cross the Pass instead of the usual two and one half.

Finally, we arrived in Thimphu in time to visit the market which was, as usual, very colorful, full of all sorts of fresh produce, spices, rice, etc. There was a handicraft market as well, which we gave a quick perusal, but after our harrowing trip over the mountain, we thought it wise to continue on to Paro after a lunch at “The Bhutanese”. Some of us had become interested in the national dish “ema datsi”, so a sample appeared at the table. This was a combination of chilies and an Indian cheese and was actually quite tasty.

Our drive on to Paro was more or less uneventful, and we went straight to the Khangkhu Resort, one of the newer properties in Paro with great views of the valley and its surrounding majestic mountains. Oh yes, we were back at 7,500 ft elevation. It was an early dinner night, including floating island, my favorite since childhood. Our bedrooms were very chilly and we had to climb up a serious hill to get to them, but they were a significant upgrade from the previous night.

JANUARY 20 - TO THE TOP, OR STOP – we stopped

Before 9am, we were off to the Satsam Chorten (a commemorative monument) which serves as the starting place for the trek to Taktshang Goemba (Tiger’s Nest). This magical monastery clings to a vertical cliff 3,000 feet above the valley floor. Legend has it that Guru Rinpoche, who first brought Buddhism to Bhutan in the 8th century, flew here on the back of a flying tigress to subdue the local demon. He meditated in a cave there for three months, and the monastery was built on the spot in the 8th century. Tragically, the monastery suffered from an unexplained fire in 1998 but has been rebuilt. The weather was perfect: sunny at 7 o C (43F o).

Two hardy souls from our little group of six, made the trek to the top with our guide, despite the slippery snow and were richly rewarded for their 7-hour very challenging trek. The rest of us spent some time on the lower trail, kept company by the beautiful blue pine trees and challenged by tricky rocky steps. We spotted a blue whistling thrush. As we climbed up and down, we had to stay on the alert for climbers on horseback, as well as happy families with children on their backs. You couldn’t help noting the trail sign: “Nature is the source of all happiness”.

We were a little disappointed that we couldn’t go to the Haa Valley ; a two and one half hour drive only recently opened to tourists. The only access to this valley (on a very sensitive border area with China/Tibet) was across Chele La Pass, at 12,900 feet, the highest pass in Bhutan and one of the highest in the world, but, unfortunately the snow had closed it. We’ll have to

come back in the spring.

Returning to our bus, we went to explore the Dzong Khak, 7th c. ruins of a fortress – amazing! On the way, our driver pointed out the highest peak in the Paro Valley, which is Mount Jomohari, topping out at 24,000 feet. The snow capped mountains all around were breathtaking.

We returned to Paro to visit the weekend market; the most amazing assortment of vegetables, spices and dried fish imported from India; in the Bhutanese growing season, they export to India. Outside the farmer’s market we checked out some handicraft shops and purchased two weavings, that will look great at Edgemoor. We took lunch at a local second floor restaurant, which was excellent. We returned to the hotel to rest and catch up on our journals.

We closed out our exceptional visit to Bhutan with a farewell dinner. We had started in Burma with 16 intrepid souls, dwindled to 10 as we entered Bhutan, and now we were only 6 stalwart and travel hardened adventurers. New acquaintances had become real friends and all of us had fallen in love with the charm and culture of Bhutan. It was time to say “Tashi Deleck” (farewell)!

JANUARY 21-22 – MOVING DAYS AGAIN – HOMEWARD BOUND

The temperature dropped overnight, to -7 o C (22 o F), which resulted in frozen water pipes and no hot water. Not a good way to start two long days of travel. Still, Druk Air took off on time and provided a wonderful view of the Himalayas, including Mount Everest and endless forest land. We stopped en route at Dhaka, in Bangladesh but didn’t get off the plane. We were greeted by personal VIP service in the Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport and were expedited through immigration arrival formalities, through baggage claim, through check-in, for our Singapore Airline flight to Singapore (with baggage checked all the way to Newark), through security and into to the Singapore Air Lounge. It’s nice to be spoiled. A quick lounge cocktail and snack and we were on our way to Singapore, where we spent the night at the Singapore Transit Hotel.

Back in the international terminal, we completed our final, nonstop leg on Singapore AL #340-500 to Newark. Heading east, so going all the way around the world, and aided with a tailwind, we managed to make Newark in 17 hours and enjoyed our first Global Entry experience. Tired? Yes, but certainly ready to tackle all kinds of CECP, Saint Thomas, family and other challenges filled with warm memories of time well spent in two special East Asia countries! A priority for me in this next week, includes a trip to US Passport Service; my book is totally full, including China, Russia and Myanmar visas. We’re certainly not done traveling.

The End

SOME FUN FACTS – BURMA/MYANMAR

Shwedagon Paya, Yangon (322’ high)– equal parts religious pilgrimage and amusement park Inle Lake – 13.5 miles long and 7 miles wide Bagan – 3,000 Buddhist temples; site of first Burmese kingdom (11-13th c); many temples have been renovated Population – approximately 60 million, about 89% Buddhist, 4% Christian - Anglican, Baptist and Catholic. Yangon 5 million; Mandalay 1.3 million Ethnic Groups – 69% Burmese, 9% Shan, 6% Karen, 5% Arakanen Theravada Buddhism – (also followed in Cambodia, Laos, Sri Lanka and Thailand) is not centered on a god, or gods, but is rather a psycho-philosophical system, starting with the enlightenment of Siddhartha Gautama Mahayana Buddhism – unlike the Theravada School which professes that the individual strives to achieve Nirvana, the Mahayana school teaches “waiting for all humankind to be ready for salvation”. Geography – largest southern Asia state (40th largest in the world), about the size of Texas Malacca Strait – the most strategic natural waterway in the world, linking the Middle East and East Asia Natural Resource – oil, natural gas, teak, gems (rubies, jade), copper and a variety of metals and minerals Burmese Language - part of Tibeto – Burman group; has own script and is unrelated to other major southern Asian languages Bordering Countries – India (857 miles), China (1,385 miles), Thailand (1,314 miles), Bangladesh (152 miles) and Laos (125 miles)

SOME FUN FACTS – BHUTAN

Population – 700k, 75% Buddhists and 25% Hindu; Thimphu’s population is 100k and has no traffic lights! Surprises – buying cigarettes is illegal, and giant phallic symbols adorn many doorways to stave off evil spirits! Gross National Happiness – Bhutan’s philosophical banner, compared to a world grappling with materialistic growth and economics. Based on core Buddhist and human values, this measurable index considers cultural heritage, health, education, good governance, ecological diversity and individual well – being Land – Bhutan is a landlocked country, about 300km long and 150km wide (46, 500 sq. Km). Bordered by Tibet (north and northwest) and India on the south, with 75% of terrain virgin wilderness (“untouched natural beauty”). Twenty per cent of the country is under year round snow! 35% of the country is natural parks and protected areas National Flower – blue poppy; cypress is national tree. Most emblematic in spring is the rhododendron. National Animal – the Takin (”beestung moose”); overall: 200 species of mammals and 600 species of birds. Of special note is the black-necked crane (world population between 5600-6000) National Dish - is “ema datse” (large green chiles, prepared as a vegetable in a cheese sauce). The second most popular is “phak sha lapha” (stewed pork with radish). The best beer is Red Panda. Red rice is consumed in great quantities National Sport –archery ; there are 2 classes of competition: bamboo bows and carbon fiber bows Currency – Nu, pegged to Indian rupees (70 Nu = US$1) Terminology - dzong = fortress monastery; goemba = monastery; lhakhangs = temples Languages – Dzongkha – same script as Tibetan and closely related but Tibetans can’t understand it! Also use Sharchop and Nepali Bhutanese Clothing – women wear a kira (brightly striped, ankle length dress) and men wear a gho (knee length robe resembling a kimono, except top part is voluminous providing plentiful storage) Four Noble Truths – life is suffering; you suffer because self desires are never satisfied; you must end senseless wanting to end suffering; and the Noble Eightfold Path of Right Understanding; Right Thought, Right Speech, Right Action, Right Livelihood, Right Effort, Right Mindfulness, and Right Concentration Drukgyal Dzong – built in 1647 to celebrate the victory of Bhutanese troops over invading Tibetans Quote – “Everything is more meaningful here because there is less of everything”. Buddha’s last words to his disciples were “work out your own salvation with diligence”

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

We are indebted to our son, David and granddaughter, Charlotte for two years of Christmas presents that provided our roundtrip business class air tickets; to Asia Transpacific Journeys who planned our trip; to Fritzi Kallop, who led the administration of this group; to John and Kazie Harvey who spearheaded our journey and to our guides, in Burma and Bhutan, who so enhanced our experience and appreciation of the unusual cultures of both countries.

I’m also grateful for that special person/lover who encouraged this trip and then, edited this “volume”.

FINAL THOUGHTS

At the risk of being controversial, you have to ask the question –“Will either country succeed?”. The answer, of course, depends on their definition of success. Burma has all kinds of baggage in terms of human rights abuse, and government corruption. At the same time, they are courting tourism and have some external investment. Bhutan is likely too “comfortable” with the status quo, while incurring more and more socialistic costs (the government is the answer to all needs), without compromising their strict protection of unchartered natural resources. India is their “savior” and how long will that country, with all kinds of problems of its own, be able to satisfy that role?

While the future of both is uncertain, and in the case of Burma, unstable, it’s still a great time to visit. It could change your life.

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Charles H. Moore