Brussels for you

A unique introduction to the capital city

‘Come and discover Brussels!’

4 critical clichés: Are they correct? 101 Criss-cross through districts and neighbourhoods cultural How rich is Brussels? tips! Learn Dutch? Of course! Regions? Communities? Language laws?

c e Prefa 04 12

Welcome to Brussels 20 26 32

Modern-day Brussels is a patchwork of people and cultures. A city with enormous opportu- nities, yet facing great challenges. Everyone must therefore work closely together to make Brussels an even more attractive and pleasant city and a better place to live in. Inside Flanders is firmly committed to collabora- tion and partnership in Brussels. Working hand in hand with other communities we are building an intercultural city, in which the various communities understand and respect 04 Brussels explored: With history in mind: a each other’s differences. voyage of discovery through districts and neighbourhoods. In this brochure you will clearly see that Brussels bubbles and sparkles, lives and 12 In Brussels, there’s always something going on: experience pulsates. It is an exciting laboratory of coexist- the vibrant cultural mosaic that is intercultural ence, in which Flanders wants to continue to Brussels. play a major role. 20 Working and living: Brussels is economi- Enjoy your journey of discovery! cally rich and socially poor. But it’s pleasant to live here!

26 Education in Brussels: How Dutch- language education works and where you can learn Dutch Pascal Smet in Brussels. Flemish Minister for Education, Youth, Equal Opportunities 32 Is Brussels a political tangle? We guide you through the and Brussels Affairs maze: Language and government in Brussels.

For more information on this brochure contact the Flemish Government, Coordination Brussels, Boudewijn- laan 30, bus 20, 1000 Brussel, T 02 553 56 28, [email protected], www.vlaanderen.be/brussel Interviews with Tony Mary 04 Colophon Leo Timmers 14 Responsible publisher: Ann Steenwinckel, team leader Coordi- Jonas Helseth 15 nation Brussels. Editing and implementation: Jansen & Janssen Anouk De Vroey 25 Customer Media, www.jaja.be. Advice: Team Coordination Gunther Van Neste 30 Brussels and Onthaal en Promotie Brussel. Translation: Denzil Madeleine Ki Shi 35 Walton. Photos: Christophe Vander Eecken. Depot number: 02 D/2010/3241/206.

I n b rief

Tough s

The inhabitants of Brussels are sometimes called Zinnekes, which is the Brussels dialect for a street dog. Long ago, such mongrels were thrown into the filthy water of the Zenne to drown. Many dogs survived: a Zinneke is thus a survivor, the symbol of the Brussels identity, a cross be- tween Flemish, Walloon, Italian, Spanish, Arabic, English, German or any blood whatsoever. The Zinneke Parade, which since 2000 has taken place every two years in May, brings together all 19 Brussels municipalities in a carnival atmosphere. The spectacular parade is the culmination of a long creative process involv- ing residents, schools, associations and artists from every district working together. It is not to be missed!

Inside The iris?

The Brussels emblem is the iris, a marsh flower, and refers to the history of the city on the marshy banks of the Zenne. In medieval times, Brussels was sur- rounded by swamps filled with bright yellow irises. The iris is the emblem of the Brussels Capital Region, and of the Flem- ish Community Commission, which has incorporated the flower in its coat of arms alongside the lion of Flanders.

180This is the number of languages spoken in Brussels. Not bad for a city of 1,048,000 inhabitants. It’s therefore no surprise that 41 percent of families speak a variety of languages. Moreo- ver, 45 different nationalities in Brussels have more than 1000 inhabitants – at least according to the latest census (2001). Since then the number has surely risen above 45.

03

Tony Mary on ‘his’ Brussels ‘Brussels ex p lored Brussels

1 Brussels 2 Sint-Joost-ten-Node 3 Schaarbeek 4 Evere 5 Sint-Lambrechts- Woluwe 6 Sint-Pieters-Woluwe 7 Oudergem 8 Etterbeek 9 Watermaal- Bosvoorde 10 Elsene

04 ‘Brussels is Belgium’s only cosmopolitan

city’, says Tony Mary. ‘Its unique assets are its

multilingualism and multiculturalism. Brussels

is our window on the world and our economic is unique’ engine. And it is our strongest brand.’

ony Mary has a successful career behind Tony Mary lives in Elsene – a municipality of The Munt Theatre is really one of the best Thim as a top executive at IBM, Belgacom 6 square kilometres with as many as 169 dif- opera houses in the world. And Bozar – the and KPMG, and was managing director of ferent nationalities on its books. ‘Brussels has Palace of Fine Arts – attracts over one million Flemish Radio and Television (VRT). He is become a multilingual and multicultural city. visitors per year.’ a passionate ambassador for Brussels, now If you look at the composition of its population, more than ever. ‘During my career I have you see a unique mixture. ‘Native’ Belgians Laboratory left Belgium five times’, he says. ‘And I have still account for 44 percent. The rest fall into ‘Dutch-speakers certainly make a huge returned five times – simply and solely for two groups. On one hand are what you might contribution to this offering. Just think of the Brussels. It has the advantages of global cities call the traditional immigrants: Spanish, Kaaitheater and the Royal Flemish Theatre like London and Paris, but is more compact, Portuguese, North Africans, Turks and Eastern (KVS), which builds bridges both to multicul- more agreeable.’ Europeans who arrived in Brussels in the tural Brussels and French-speakers. Or the 1950s looking for jobs – often poorly paid. Ancienne Belgique (AB), a legendary concert Unique blend Some integrated better than others.’ hall for international pop and rock. The Dutch- ‘Just think about it. You can find urban ‘On the other hand are the immigrants language culture in Brussels is so strong neighbourhoods, like here in Elsene, but also associated with the international role of Brus- and attractive because it’s open. It’s fully rural districts such as Sint-Agatha-Berchem sels: civil servants of the European Union and submerged in the intercultural mosaic that is and residential areas too, in the south-east. NATO, lobbyists, lawyers, journalists, amongst Brussels. And that’s where it should be.’ Everything is so close together: the down-to- others. Thanks to its international role, Brus- ‘The world is becoming increasingly intercul- earth Marolles, the Matonge with its African sels is our economic engine and has a unique tural. You notice this in Antwerp and Ghent, and atmosphere, the luxury of Louizalaan. Brussels brand – Brussels is known worldwide, which soon, the rest of Flanders will follow. In Brussels, is also much greener than outsiders think. You you can’t say about Flanders. As the capital of you cannot ignore this. To move smoothly can find cosy parks and gardens, as well as the Europe, it attracts highly educated and affluent through Brussels, you have to be trilingual. Per- Zoniënwoud and its offshoot, the Terkameren- people. They breathe tremendous life into the sonally I think education has to adapt to this new bos. A visit to the beautifully restored gardens city. The cultural offering of Brussels compares reality. It’s the only way to prepare our children of the Terkameren Abbey is an absolute must.’ favourably to that of the world’s biggest cities. for the multicultural world ahead.’

19 11 Ukkel 12 Vorst 18 Brussels: city and region 4 13 Sint-Gillis In this brochure, ‘Brussels’ refers to the territory of the Brussels 17 16 3 14 Anderlecht Capital Region. It’s formed by the 19 municipalities of Brussels. 15 2 15 Sint-Jans-­ 5 One of these 19 is Brussels City. 1 Molenbeek 16 Koekelberg 8 When people talk about the city of Brussels, they tend to refer to 14 13 6 17 Sint-Agatha- 10 the pentagon. This is the city centre that is bounded by the great Berchem 10 avenues of the inner ring road. Brussels City extends much further 12 7 18 Ganshoren than the pentagon (postcode 1000), encompassing Laken (1020), 19 Jette Neder-Over-Heembeek (1120), Haren (1130), the southern part of 9 11 Louiza-Roosevelt (1050) and the European district (1040).

05

Ask Flemish people from Hasselt

or Bruges what they think about

Brussels, and you’ll get a wide ex p lored Brussels variety of opinions. Brussels is

dirty and unsafe, for example,

or nobody understands Dutch.

Clichés galore, but are they true?

We put four to Tony Mary.

Are they right? Four critical clichés about Brussels 1 2 3 Brussels is a dirty city. Brussels is not worth Brussels is unsafe. ‘The sanitation service, Net Brussels, works a second glance; it’s ugly. ‘Brussels is a 21st century cosmopolitan city. hard to do a thorough job. On the whole it suc- ‘I’m fully aware that wonderful neighbour- All things considered, it’s a very safe city. ceeds – although not in every neighbourhood. hoods have been flattened, and derelict areas I frequently travel by tram and metro and Poverty brings with it a certain neglect. And still exist. But you should really take time to feel perfectly safe. Of course you have to be litter is still a major problem. Why do people stroll around Brussels. And look upwards so sensible. Don’t leave valuables in your car leave mess lying around? It probably has some- you can admire all the façades. You can find in certain neighbourhoods, and stay on your thing to do with a lack of respect, citizenship gorgeous examples of all styles, including the guard in some districts and subway stations. and education. Personally I think the state of Renaissance. You simply have to keep your But you’ll soon learn that. Of course, crime the roads in Brussels is a bigger problem. In eyes open and know what to look for. A tip exists in Brussels, and is surely linked with some neighbourhoods you could imagine you is to go on one of the city walks organised unemployment and grinding poverty. In the are in a developing country!’ by Brukselbinnenstebuiten, such as Horta’s poor neighbourhoods – Sint-Jans-Molenbeek, Spectacles. It’s a historical, architectural walk Kuregem, Schaarbeek – many young people with an emphasis on Art Nouveau: classicism, are unemployed. So they hang around the eclecticism, Art Deco, Expo 58 style etc. You’ll streets, which of course has its consequences. be blown away.’ They become disillusioned, or drift into illegal and criminal practices. Something needs to be done if the birth rate in the disadvantaged neighbourhoods continues to increase.’ 06 The trail of discovery

Where does Tony Mary take foreign visitors who want to get to know Brussels? ‘If it’s their first time in Brussels, I try to give them some historical background. We start at the Archaeological Museum on the Coudenberg, near the Warandepark. It was the site of the residential palace of the Dukes of Burgundy until the abdication of Charles V. The Order of the Golden Fleece also met there. Even then, Brussels was undeniably the capital of Europe. Unfortunately the palace later burnt down. Archaeologists have uncovered Four critical clichés about Brussels the remains of the Aula Magna, the State Rooms. Impressive!’ ‘Then we walk to the Kleine Zavel, where you can explain the conflict between liberals and Catholics that 4 tore 19th century Belgium apart. Oppo- site the church the liberal Mayor Buls You can’t go anywhere in allowed a sort of anti-church structure Brussels with your Dutch. to be built, with 48 bronze statues of ‘That’s just not true. If you speak Dutch, you Beyond ancient crafts. From the Vossenplein are treated correctly. The time has passed the ­clichés with – just outside the old city walls – we when French-speaking residents of Brussels continue to the Justice Palace for a used to call Dutch-speakers farmers. You have panoramic view of Brussels. Then to realise that Brussels is a multilingual city, it’s time for a pint in the Goudblom- where dozens of languages are spoken. You’ll meke in Papier, once the favourite only annoy people if you stubbornly expect Looking for ­reliable pub of surrealists such as Magritte. that everyone talks to you in fluent Dutch. I al- and up-to-date Of course I let them visit the Grote ways address people in Dutch, and I’m pleased information about Markt and the beautiful, glass-covered if the person I’m talking to makes an effort to Brussels? It can all be Saint-Hubert Galleries, the oldest and understand me. But I won’t insist that a Polish found at the Brussels finest malls in Europe. And then we waiter or a Turkish shop assistant reply to Centre for Informa- dine in a genuine Brussels restaurant, me in Dutch.’ tion, Documentation Aux Armes de Bruxelles. What do and Research: I eat there? Calf brains with tartaar www.briobrussel.be (raw mince), and then vol-au-vent. Of course, my guests are free to choose something else ...’ 07

ex p lored Brussels

08 Clockwise from top left: Dansaertstraat, Archiduc, Watermaal-Bosvoorde, Vossenplein, the European district, the canal zone (middle) and Vlaamse Steenweg

A walk with history in mind A patchwork of neighbourhoods and districts

Downtown Coudenberg, and expanded in the following Brussels was initially established on the marshy centuries to become an impressive palatial banks of the River Zenne, near what is now complex. The palace burnt down in 1731, but Sint-Goriksplein, close to the busy trade route the princes who ruled Brussels continued to that linked Bruges and England with the Rhine- reside on the Coudenberg. Here today are the land. The result was a trading post, Bruocsella, classic Koningsplein, the Warandepark and the literally ‘the settlement in the marsh’. Artisans Royal Palace, with next to it the BELvue Mu- and merchants lived in mud houses. seum, which gives an overview of the (royal) This is now the neighbourhood around the history of Belgium. A little further is Wetstraat. Oude Graanmarkt and Nieuwe Graanmarkt The mansions that the elite built around the and the fashionable Dansaertstraat, with its park are now ministries, embassies, banks: many trendy retail outlets, art galleries, antique thus uptown Brussels remains a place of pros- shops and designer shops. Here too is the perity, prestige and power. Vlaamsesteenweg, which is all that remains of the ancient trade route to Ghent and Bruges. The Zenne In recent years this street – with its quaint In 1860 the Zenne was basically an open alleyways – has become a flourishing shopping sewer flowing through the city, with filthy street, with friendly pubs such as Daringman, working-class hovels along its banks. When a Roskam or Monk, or restaurants like Viva cholera epidemic killed 3,500 people, Mayor M’Boma and Le Pré Salé, where you can still en- Anspach decided to cover the river. The slums joy traditional Brussels cuisine. Many consider were replaced by mansions, hotels and offices. Dansaerstraat and the surrounding area to be Wide, dead-straight boulevards, such as the the most Flemish part of Brussels. Anspachlaan, connected the north and south stations. A new city grew up around these Uptown boulevards, including the Stock Exchange and Whoever occupied the hills, held the power. Brouckèreplein, still one of the most popular In about 1100, a stone castle arose on the entertainment districts of the city. » 09

ex p lored Brussels

From left to right: uptown (Koningsplein), Warande Park and Belgian Parliament building, fish shop on the Oude Graanmarkt

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Leopold II the factories. Their children and grandchildren neighbourhoods. The result is a kaleidoscope Around that time the ambitious King Leopold became more affluent and settled in Laken, of scents and colours. The Matonge district, II stamped his mark on Brussels. He wanted to Jette, Ganshoren, Sint-Agatha-Berchem or with its exotic shops selling African products, turn Brussels into a metropolis to match Paris. further afield. They left the run-down working- grew up around the Naamsepoort in Elsene. On Leopold II created a city with grand vistas and class neighbourhoods for the immigrants who the outskirts of the area is L’Horloge du Sud, a monumental buildings. Constructed during followed them. brasserie that also organises film screenings his reign were the Jubelpark, the majestic The mainstream migrations occurred in and debates. In Etterbeek, the cafés on the Tervurenlaan, Josaphat Park in Schaarbeek, the 1950s and 1960s. Large-scale construc- Jourdanplein – with its border of plane trees – the Koekelberg Basilica and Louizalaan, still tion projects such as Expo 58 and the metro gradually gave way to expensive restaurants. one of the country’s most luxurious shopping required cheap labour. It came mainly from the A pleasant multicultural district developed streets. At the bottom of the Koningsplein is south Mediterranean: Spaniards, Italians, Por- around the Hallepoort, while a little further the Kunstberg, where you can find the Royal tuguese, Greeks, Turks, North Africans. The on in Sint-Gillis the former socialist meeting Museums of Fine Arts, the Palace of Fine Arts fall of the Iron Curtain led to tens of thousands house, the Maison du Peuple, became a culture (Bozar) and the Royal Library of Belgium. of Eastern Europeans arriving in Brussels. All café. Vibrant Moroccan neighbourhoods devel- The Palace of Justice was also built during these groups have left their mark on Brussels: oped in the densely populated Sint-Jans-Molen- Leopold’s reign, which involved flattening part Turks in Schaarbeek and Sint-Joost-ten-Node, beek where you can buy fresh vegetables, herbs of the feisty Marolles district. Fortunately, the Portuguese in Sint-Gillis and Elsene (where and meat. Brabantstraat close to the North Vossenplein was preserved, so you can still you can find a statue of the poet Pessoa), Station is the most famous Moroccan shopping browse the fascinating flea market that is held Greeks around the South Station, Moroccans street in Brussels. there every day. In and around the Euro- Canal zone To the west Industry in the canal zone did decline but is pean institutions, about The covering of the Zenne diverted shipping once again flourishing on both banks. Vitality traffic along the canal to the west of Brussels. 55,000 highly skilled staff, is provided by the important cultural centre Industry grew up on either side of the canal. the Kaaitheater: its buildings retain their rath- consultants and business This marked the expansion of the city beyond er rugged industrial charm but now have a dif- its ancient walls. In the west, rural villages people find employment. ferent use. Thurn & Taxis, a huge, old freight like Sint-Jans-Molenbeek and Anderlecht de- station with giant storehouses is listed as an veloped into densely populated industrial sub- in Sint-Jans-Molenbeek and Anderlecht. international monument and is now a prime urbs. Tens of thousands of poor Flemings and People from all corners of the world come location for major events. A nearby warehouse Walloons trekked to the canal zone to toil in to these densely populated working-class has been transformed into a trendy venue – 10 K-nal – for parties and events. All kinds of The Leopoldswijk district, east of the Warande- It’s not only the Zoniënwoud that makes Brus- alternative initiatives are also springing up park, was built around 1840 for aristocrats sels the greenest capital in Europe. Dozens of around the Ninoofsesteenweg. Gradually the and wealthy citizens. It’s a prime area with frequently well-hidden city parks and gardens grubby canal zone is being transfigured into a majestic avenues, public gardens and carriage can be found everywhere, from the Josaphat place-to-be. entrances. During the 1960s the district was Park in Schaarbeek to two of Leopold II’s largely demolished to make way for the build- ornamental gardens in Laken, the Colonial South and south-east ings of the European institutions, including Garden and the Florist’s Garden. Thanks to the The city also expanded towards the south and the Berlaymont building (the headquarters of Green Walk – more than 60 km of footpaths south-east – not with working-class neighbour- the European Commission), the Justus Lipsius and cycle routes – you can easily discover the hoods but with stately homes for aristocrats. building (where the European Council is held) amazing diversity of parks, woods, marshes By the late 19th century Belgium had grown and the European Parliament. and protected natural areas on the outskirts of into the world’s fourth largest trading power. In and around the European institutions, the Brussels Capital Region. The bourgeoisie celebrated this status with about 55,000 highly skilled staff, consultants elegance and grandeur. Outside the old city and business people find employment. They boundaries they constructed imposing boul- come from the European Union but also from evards, parks and squares: Dudenpark, Maria- the United States or Japan. Most of them live in Louizasquare, Leopoldpark. They built elegant the neighbourhood or close by in the residen- homes in eclectic style or lavish Art Nouveau, tial communities of the east and south-east. with a bel-etage and a servants’ attic. Expan- sion continued into the 20th century in the Zoniënwoud same direction: Ukkel, Elsene, Etterbeek, Evere South-east of Brussels is the 4,500-hectare (where NATO’s headquarters are located), and Zoniënwoud. It was once much larger, but Want to explore municipalities that a few generations ago were development and deforestation have taken Brussels? Ideas and marked merely rural villages: Watermaal-Bosvoorde their toll. Some of the deforested areas were re- trails can be found and the two villages on the River Woluwe planted with stately beech trees, leading to the at www.uitinbrussel.be – Sint-Lambrechts-Woluwe and Sint-Pieters- famous cathedral effect: dead-straight aisles which will shortly be in Woluwe. Typically the new neighbourhoods between tall pillars of beech. An offshoot of the French and English too. A handy English- were even more splendid than in the west, Zoniënwoud, the Terkamerenbos, is connected language site – especially for young people – with an emphasis on greenery and detached to Brussels by the Louizalaan. Here too are is www.use-it.be/brussels. Here you can houses. Nineteenth century grandeur gave way footpaths, cycle routes, bridle paths, playing find the address of the Use-it in Brussels to a more functional and pragmatic style. areas and picnic places. ­information desk. 11

Flemish flavours in the cultural mosaic Openness which inspires Brussels c ultural inter

12 Brussels overflows with large and small

concert halls and theatres, studios,

podiums, sports clubs and film clubs –

each one providing an opportunity for an

exciting cross-cultural encounter. The result

is a stimulating melting pot, with Flemish

ingredients adding extra spice.

ention art and culture in Brussels and platform for African and Moroccan artists, and Mthe Munt Theatre immediately springs even runs workshops in Congo. to mind. Or the Royal Museums of Fine Arts, The Kaaitheater also breaks down barriers. where you can admire famous works by It presents its own dance and theatre produc- Bruegel, Memling, Van Dyck and Ensor. But tions and welcomes home- and foreign-based Brussels has many other influential cultural troupes. The legendary concert hall Ancienne venues. Some of them grow and flourish Belgique (AB) attracts top international acts thanks to the Flemish community. In recent as well as newcomers, Flemish rock, world decades Flanders has invested in a network of music and other genres. Its French-speaking Flemish initiatives that give an extra sparkle counterpart, the Botanique, works closely to Brussels city life and cultural life. with the AB: the two concert halls combine to put on the ABBota festival. Events and Building bridges festivals such as the Zinneke Parade or In Brussels, Flanders meets the world with Couleur Café also have a significant Flemish open minds and arms. Influential Flemish cul- contribution. tural houses as well as small-scale initiatives Smaller Flemish initiatives are also bringing have been profoundly inspired by what the different communities together. Examples in- city has to offer. They are curious, daring and clude Daarkom, the Flemish-Moroccan Culture focus on dialogue and cooperation with other House, and the Flemish-African company Ku- communities. For example, the Royal Flemish umba. Or the 22 Flemish community centres Theatre (KVS) has expanded from being a that are located in the 19 municipalities where meeting place for Flemish people in Brussels all the inhabitants of Brussels can enjoy the into a multicultural venue. The KVS builds shows, concerts, workshops and courses that bridges with the National Theatre, provides a take place there. 13

‘Incredible mix’ Brussels c ultural inter

Illustrator and children’s

author Leo Timmers says

he certainly needs the city’s

inspirations. His style of art

absorbs and transcends all n 2009 Leo Timmers won his fourth Child ‘With young children at home our diet of Iand Youth Jury Prize, this time for Diep- culture is naturally fairly sparse. Sometimes cultural differences. Maybe zeedoktor Diederik. His work is translated into the kids sleep over at friends for a weekend, sixteen languages – Doktor Diederick is Doctor and then we watch two movies one after like Brussels itself? Dean in English, Docteur Alphonse in French another, snatch an evening at the theatre and a and Il dottor Curatutto in Italian. Leo lives restaurant, stroll around the Marolles looking in Jette with his wife Gina Riti and their two for vintage furniture ...’ daughters. ‘Would my work look any different if I ‘I live near the house where Rene Magritte didn’t live in Brussels? It’s hard to say. What’s had a studio for a long time. Almost all of certain is that I need the inspiration of the his masterpieces were created there. That’s city; that incredible potpourri of experiences important to me: Magritte is a hero of mine, – both positive and negative – that you get as is Hergé. But they are not the reason why I from a multilingual city. Brussels never ceases moved to Brussels to live. Gina and I originate to amaze: you turn a corner and you’re in a from Houthalen in Limburg. Because we both completely different world.’ really love film and theatre, we sometimes ‘My work is clearly very international. The went to Cinematek, the Kaaitheater or the children’s book market is highly segmented KVS. We began to wonder what it would be like – for example, French children’s books don’t to live in Brussels.’ easily cross the border. That’s no problem for ‘At first we lived in Schaerbeek for three my work: it appears in nearly 20 countries, years. That was perfectly fine, but buying a without local adaptations. It seems my style house there was out of the question. In Jette it very easily transcends all cultural differences. was more feasible. At that time we didn’t have Could this perhaps be a consequence of Brus- the children, although we did wonder if we sels? In the many international booksellers would want our kids to grow up in Brussels. here you can find children’s books in every Many of our friends moved to the outskirts of possible style and from every corner of the Brussels as soon as children arrived. But for world. Maybe all these influences seep into now it’s OK.’ my work?’ 14

Brussel c ultural inter

‘A city for culture lovers’

Jonas Helseth works for the Norwegian Mission to the European Union and have Flemish and Dutch friends in Brussels, mercial ones.’ lives in Elsene. He learned I so I have great opportunities to brush up ‘Of course the great charm of Brussels is my Dutch. In Brussels, French is the most that it’s so international. You can meet people his excellent Dutch in the commonly used official language, but I notice from all corners of the world, and certainly not that English is increasingly spoken, especially just from the European Union. It is also a very between young international people.’ pleasant city – personally I haven’t experi- Netherlands, where he ‘I have lived in Brussels since 2008; cur- enced any unsafe situations. As a Norwegian rently in Elsene, near the ponds. It’s a lovely I admit I miss the water and the coast. The studied at university. area. I particularly enjoy the Flaygeyplein, only big problem with Brussels is the traffic. especially in summer with its electrifying There are far too many cars. Buses get stuck in concerts. If you like culture, you’re well traffic jams, and cars are parked all over the looked after in Brussels. I regularly go to jazz place. Beautiful streets and elegant squares concerts, music festivals and the movies – in like Jourdanplein are ruined. Efforts have been Brussels, the range of movies is fortunately made to make it easier for cyclists, but unfortu- extremely wide, and is not limited to com- nately the car remains king.’ 15

Brussels c ultural inter

© vzw Atomium – SABAM Belgium 2010

16 Tips for cultural discoveries Sample an endless supply

If you love art, culture and sport, you can indulge yourself

in Brussels, all year round. Here’s a short list of tips –

unfortunately far too short. Looking for an adventure.

Of course you just have to visit Music city the Magritte Museum on the Bozar – the Palace of Fine Arts – is the largest Kunstberg, which is dedicated to arts centre in Brussels, attracting one million the master of Belgian surrealism. visitors per year. It is housed in a mag- And you can’t ignore the great nificent and completely renovated museums of the Jubelpark. But why Art Deco building of Victor Horta. not try something more adventurous? Bozar is a warren of exhibition For example, close to the Magritte Museum is halls, theatres, multimedia rooms a magnificent Art Nouveau building – an old and a 2200-seat concert hall. It’s warehouse – which is the Musical Instru- renowned for its world-famous ments Museum, where you can discover the Queen Elisabeth Competition which world of instruments. Also highly recom- alternates between violin, piano and mended is the Museum of Elsene: it provides vocals. Every year Bozar holds more than 250 a superb overview of Belgian art from the 19th concerts and 20 exhibitions. As a centre for the and 20th centuries, as well as a wonderful col- arts it promotes partnerships, such as with the lection of posters from the turn of the century, classical music radio station Klara, with which including a complete collection of original it teams up as its special guest during Klara in Toulouse-Lautrec posters. the Palace. Definitely worth a visit is the curiousAntoine Musical discoveries continue in the Minimes Wiertz Museum, devoted to the often extraordi- Church with its intimate afternoon summer narily bizarre work of this 19th century painter. concerts (Midi-Minimes). Here you can listen For exhibitions of contemporary art, close to the to a Bach cantata every last Sunday of the Sint-Katelijneplein is the European Center for month. And after its renovation, the Art Deco Contemporary Art. In the heart of Brussels is the Flagey, nicknamed the ‘package steamer’, Beursschouwburg art centre. Wiels, a laboratory looks resplendent again as it cruises through for contemporary art, is located in a former brew- its programme of jazz, classical music, world ery in Vorst. But Brussels has many other music and film. amazing museums. A good opportunity to get to know them is during the Neighbours Nocturnes of the Brussels Promoting the Dutch language and culture Museums or Museum throughout Europe and the world is the mission Night Fever. of deBuren, the Flemish-Dutch House next to the Munt Theatre. A joint initiative between » 17

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Flanders and the Netherlands, it provides a plat- a magnificent Art Nouveau building of Victor physics and chemistry. Pretend you’re a fakir? form for debate on culture, science, politics and Horta – attracts thousands of tourists every Make a rainbow? Anything is possible. society in Flanders, the Netherlands and Europe. year. A Comic Strip Tour leads you to life-size If you want to take the kids to a good show, murals of comic book heroes colourfully drawn Bronks is a must: no corny plays, but fresh, Film city on forty or so blank walls. contemporary children’s theatre. Youth and Did you know that Audrey Music Brussels puts on workshops, holiday Hepburn (Breakfast at Jazz city camps, concerts and performances so that Tiffany’s) was born It’s no coincidence that Brussels is the city of children and young people can sample a range

Brussels c ultural inter in Elsene in 1929? jazz legend Toots Thielemans. Late into the of musical tastes. There used to be many night the city buzzes with jazz, for example in During school holidays the Kids Factory beautiful cinemas in L’Archiduc, an Art Deco café in Dansaertstraat, (Sint-Gillis) puts on a children’s workshop, Brussels, but Brussels or The Music Village near the Grote Markt. homework classes and play weeks. In the is still a film city. The Jazz Station is a jazz club housed in a renovat- Noordwijk, the ABC House – Art Basics for treasures of the world-renowned Film Archive ed railway station on Leuvensesteenweg. In July Children – is a multifunctional playground (41,000 titles) are on display at Cinematek Brosella organises a free folk and jazz festival. where you can experiment with image, sound (Bozar), where you can visit the movies every At the end of May the Brussels Jazz Mara- and various materials. Another recommenda- day, for free. In Cinema Nova you can watch thon takes over the city: all weekend hundreds tion is Aximax, which organises sporting, crea- movies that are not normally available on the of musicians play in cafés, tive, fun and language-stimulating activities for commercial circuit. In addition, dozens of small on squares and on anyone between 3 and 18 years. and large film festivals are organised in Brus- stages – and not only Older children will enjoy Brussels’ twelve sels. The best known are the Brussels Film jazz but also Latino, youth hostels and its vibrant youth centres. Festival (specialising in European cinema), funk, rock and the These are also regularly heard on the Dutch the unique Festival of Fantastic Film and blues. city radio fm brussel. Every summer the Anima, the animated film festival held in Brussels youth centres work together to Flagey. Movie fans will also love the Rits Café Brussels is put on the Bruksellive music festival. The in Dansaertstraat: the film and theatre school of the max! organisation JES also works in Brussels with the same name presents concerts, debates and Want to discover Brussels with your children? education, outreach and various projects like movies in its café. That’s possible, with the children’s walking the Rock Factory, where young rockers can book called Op vadroei door Brussel (dialect for find workshops and rehearsal rooms and even Comic strip city On Foot Through Brussels). If it’s raining, then record demos. And at the Piano Factory you can Brussels is big on comic strips: famous artists simply dive into a museum. Most museums are breakdance, rap and learn scratching in the like Hergé (Tintin), Edgar P. Jacobs child-friendly: they offer workshops, courses Skool of HipHop. (Blake and Mortimer) and Willy and other activities. Designed especially for www.kidsinbrussel.be Vandersteen (Suske and Wiske) children of course is the Children’s Museum in were born in Brussels or worked Elsene. Here kids can steer a submarine, build Local and social here. It’s a tradition that con- a flying machine and be the hero in their own The 22 community tinues to thrive. The Belgian fairy tale. In the Scientastic Museum, budding centres form the hub Comic Strip Centre – housed in scientists can experiment with the laws of of Flemish social and

18 © vzw Atomium – SABAM Belgium 2010 cultural life at a local level. All the 19 munici- the Jubelpark’s arch is ent location in Brussels. palities of Brussels have one, while Brussels truly memorable. The During winter you can experience Winter- Capital also has centres in the municipalities Brussels marathon (in October) is open to pret, a fairy-tale trail from the Grote Markt of Haren, Laken and Neder-Over-Heembeek. both elite and recreational runners. The annual to the Vismarkt, with Christmas stalls and The community centres organise performances, Memorial Van Damme athletics event takes entertainment. A different view of Brussels is exhibitions, Dutch language courses etc. They place in the King Baudouin Stadium and has possible during Car-free Sunday in Septem- act as a meeting place and often also perform a been voted best athletics event in the world on ber, when the busy traffic comes social service, both for Flemish people and for numerous occasions. to a halt to create Europe’s non-Dutch-speakers. Well-known ones include biggest car-free zone. Also the Vaartkapoen (Sint-Jans-Molenbeek), that An overflowing agenda in September is Open organises alternative concerts, De Markten, You’ll soon notice that there’s always some- Monument Day: over the near the city centre, and the renovated De thing going on in Brussels. We have already weekend monuments and Pianofabriek (Sint-Gillis), that is set up as an mentioned some events, but there are hundreds notable buildings and resi- arts workshop and intercultural laboratory. more. Music festivals include the classical dences are open for free. Klara Festival, the festival of contemporary The multilingual literary festi- Sport, active and passive music Ars Musica, the exciting world music val Passa Porta is organised every two years In the late 80s you had to be a daredevil to festival Couleur Café at Thurn & Taxis, the free by the international literature house Passa cycle through the city centre. Since then the lunchtime concerts Boterhammen in het Park Porta and the literary associations Het Beschrijf number of cyclists has increased noticeably: (with free sandwiches) and the family festival and Entrez Lire. Also occurring biennially are you even see them in Wetstraat. At the same Plazey in the Koekelberg Basilica. At Les Nuits the spectacular Zinneke Parade and Brxl- time the government has created a viable Botanique you can enjoy chanson, rock and bravo, an arts festival that puts well-known cycling infrastructure, with cycling paths and world music. The bilingual city festival Kunsten- and lesser known artistic turns in the spotlight. marked cycle routes. FestivaldesArts offers theatre, music, dance, And every two years the international festival Sports clubs abound in Brus- film, graphic arts, multimedia and performanc- Europalia draws attention to a country and its sels. Scuba diving, handball, es. On 11 July Brussels celebrates the Flemish cultural heritage. ice skating, hockey: there’s National Day with De Gulden Ontsporing, with Do you feel like getting a club for everything. If diverse activities in the city and a festive closing to know Brussels better you want to get to know ceremony on the Grote Markt. In May each year during your lunch the clubs, you should par- the Iris Festival is celebrated. break and sample www.uitinbrussel.be ticipate in Stadskriebels, If you want to experience the summer in some culture at the an annual sports event or- Brussels, visit the authentic beach of Brussel same time? Every The weekly city ganised by the sports department Bad in the canal zone. The Brussels Summer month Broodje newspaper Brussel of the Flemish Community and BLOSO. If you Festival (August) has evolved into a popular Brussel offers an Deze Week distributes prefer mind games, visit the charming chess multicultural summer festival. One fun way to extensive menu of a trilingual events café Greenwich. explore Brussels is the summertime Stad- concerts, guided city magazine, Agenda. Participation in the Brussels 20 km (in sapero’s / Les Aperos Urbains: aperitifs are sightseeing, museum May) is so popular that the 30,000 numbers served every Friday tours, workshops, are snapped up in a single day: the start under evening at a differ- lectures, etc.

19

& L iving Working

Brussels is undoubtedly the economic engine of A profile in five key phrases

Belgium. It is an international business centre and

a world-class convention city. Of concern are high Economi cally rich, socially poor

unemployment and the widening gap between

rich and poor. Here is a socio-economic profile of

Brussels in five key phrases. Service economy 1Brussels is a capital in at least four respects: of Europe, Belgium, the Flemish Community and the French Community. The bulk of governmental administrations are therefore brought together in the city. This central function attracts many international and domestic institutions and companies, which consider it important to be located close to the decision-makers. It’s the reason why Brussels has many highly qualified and well-paid jobs in the service sector. The 20 A profile in five key phrases Economi cally rich, socially poor

Brussels economy is therefore primarily a International workforce city attracted many international and Euro- service economy: over 85 percent of jobs are 2The diversity and multicultural nature pean institutions, as well as headquarters of in that sector. of Brussels is of course linked with the multinationals, consultancies, lobbyists, law Around 1900, Brussels was still the coun- economy. People came from all corners of the firms, media experts and consultants. The try’s foremost industrial city. The slow decline world to find work in Brussels. This migration need for highly trained and multilingual staff of industry started in the late 1960s, in paral- was in full swing between 1950 and 1975, continues to grow. According to the latest Eu- lel with the rise of Brussels as a world capital. when large groups of workers from southern ropean Cities Monitor (2009) – based on sur- Jobs in industry still only account for less than Europe, North Africa and Turkey came to veys of the 500 largest European companies – 5 percent of total employment. Much industrial settle in and around Brussels. Generally they Brussels is the fifth most attractive business activity has moved away from Brussels and is found low-paid jobs in catering, construction location, behind London, Paris, Frankfurt and situated in the outskirts – Vilvoorde, Nijvel, and industry. Barcelona. Second only to New York, Brussels Zaventem. The fact that Brussels was Europe’s principal is the world’s most important diplomatic » 21

& L iving Working

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centre. This strong international position also has implications for tourism. Three-quarters of business tourism is linked to Brussels’ role as capital of Europe. With leisure tourism that’s a third. In the meantime, Brussels has grown into one of the largest convention cities in the world.

3Commuters Of the estimated 650,000 jobs in Brussels, less than half are occupied by residents of Brussels. Approximately 56 percent of jobs are filled by commuters; two-thirds of these come from Flanders. Every day about a quarter of a million people stream out of the north, central and south stations or creep at snail’s pace in kilometres of traffic jams on the motorways to Brussels. They contribute to the economic under 17 live in households without any for the poorly educated in Brussels are few growth of Brussels, but they live in Flanders income from a job. Unemployment is particu- and far between. They do exist in the Flemish – where they pay their taxes. It’s a bone of larly high among the young and the poorly periphery around Brussels, but people from contention to some residents of Brussels that educated: 32 percent of -25 year olds were Brussels seeking jobs are handicapped by their the wealth generated in Brussels drains away lack of knowledge of Dutch. Barely 5% of the from the city. unemployed understand Dutch, while – even in Approximately 56 Brussels – knowledge of French and Dutch is percent of jobs are required for 45 percent of vacancies. The lack Unemployment of a transport network between Brussels and 4 filled by commuters; The economic importance of Brussels is huge: the outskirts is a further obstacle. the Brussels-Capital Region contributes 20 two-thirds of these percent of Belgium’s added value. At the same come from Flanders. time the average income of the inhabitants of 5The gap Brussels is low and the region has the highest In 2006, 28 percent of the population of level of unemployment in the country. The Brussels was living below the poverty line. paradox of Brussels is that it is economically unemployed in 2008. The figure for Flanders was 10.9 percent. rich but socially poor. Over 30 percent of job seekers are from Moreover, enormous differences exist between In 2008 the level of unemployment was ethnic minorities. Unemployed immigrants the municipalities of Brussels. The richest 19.5 percent while the national average was – mostly from North Africa and Turkey – are municipalities are in the south-east: Ukkel, 10.6 percent. High unemployment has serious especially poorly educated and still face Watermaal-Bosvoorde, Oudergem, Sint-Pieters- social consequences. 32 percent of children discrimination when applying for a job. Jobs Woluwe, Sint-Lambrechts-Woluwe. The more 22 Intertwined with Flanders

The political and administrative boundaries of Brussels are fixed. At the same wealthy foreigners reside in these residential time, at a socio-economic level Brussels is increasingly intertwined with municipalities. The poorest municipalities lie Flanders and Wallonia. According to a study by KU Leuven, in addition to the in the west and closer to the city: Sint-Joost- 19 Brussels municipalities a further 43 municipalities around Brussels should ten-Node, Sint-Jans-Molenbeek and Sint-Gillis. be considered as part of the Brussels metropolis. People from here enter Actually these are the three poorest munici- Brussels to go to work or school, experience the culture, indulge themselves palities in Belgium. People also face hardship and go shopping. Conversely, many young Brussels families move out to live in Anderlecht and Schaarbeek. in the green outskirts surrounding the city. In the poorer municipalities, the popula- Brussels is thus closely interlinked with the surrounding regions. The Flem- tion is generally younger and is growing ish government realises this: the prosperity of the periphery and the rest of explosively. Among the young the number of Flanders is closely connected to the vitality of Brussels. That’s why it works in school dropouts is relatively high; they can’t close collaboration with Brussels, particularly in areas such as mobility, and find work and often live in dire circumstances. town and country planning. In this respect, employment offices in Brussels, Various governments are trying to find solu- Wallonia and Flanders have taken steps to fill the vacancies in the Flemish tions. Slum areas are being renovated and area around Zaventem close to Brussels airport. The area is crying out for are once again attracting more prosperous educated and uneducated labour, while in Brussels almost 20 percent of the residents – with the unintended side-effect active population is unemployed. Poor knowledge of Dutch remains the big- that often the original, poorer residents are gest obstacle. Therefore the Brussels employment service is investing heavily displaced. The governments and institutions of in Dutch-language courses. Its Flemish counterpart offers a basic Dutch Brussels and Flanders have taken steps to com- course and mediates with vacancies, and the Flemish transport company De bat unemployment, for example with targeted Lijn has laid on extra buses from Brussels to Zaventem. vocational training. 23

& L iving Working

Residential Brussels Wake up in Brussels?

Brussels remains an attractive

residential city. Dilapidated

areas have been restored and

derelict factories transformed into The quality of life also has an influence: are university hospital, schools at every level of there playgroups and schools nearby? What education, service centres and other facilities about public transport? for the elderly, childcare centres, playgrounds, beautiful lofts. Is it time to dream To help you, every year Living in Brussels youth clubs and youth associations. (Wonen in Brussel) organises five Housing Worthy of mention is the new website of living in Brussels? Tours. These bring you up-to-date with the zorgzoeker.be, which allows people to search housing opportunities in the region, from villas for Dutch-speaking primary care specialists to affordable new construction projects. You in Brussels, from dieticians to ophthalmolo- and your guide can explore community life, gists and midwives. Dutch-language health shopping possibilities, public transport and organisations in Brussels have established aybe you are fed up with the daily rush- Dutch-language education. You will come face- the House of Health (Huis voor Gezondheid), a Mhour queues and you want to live where to-face with people who have opted to live in partnership that supports carers. In the heart you work? Or do you simply want to enjoy the Brussels, and can hear their experiences. of Brussels, seniors are welcome to attend bustling city? Have you discovered that Brus- the Seniors’ Centre. In sels is much greener than you expected or are A Dutch-language network addition, a dense you curious about the cosmopolitan nature of For Dutch-speakers who come to live in Brus- network of 33 the big city? These are all good reasons to live sels, the proximity of Dutch-language schools sheltered hous- in Brussels. and facilities is often important. In recent dec- ing areas has ades the Flemish government has developed its been expand- Housing Tours own network of organisations and institutions ed, focusing There’s just one over-riding question – where so that Dutch-speaking inhabitants of Brussels on home care www.woneninbrussel.be do you find a home? Brussels is extremely di- can be taught, cared for and supported in and care for www.zorgzoeker.be verse, and real estate prices vary considerably. their own language. The network includes a the elderly. 24

& living Working

‘It’s a delight to work from home’

Anouk De Vroey and Levi Wijns live with their two children in a converted former printing office in Sint-Jans-Molenbeek, which Jans-Molenbeek. We thought about it and a few warmer and more personal than elsewhere.’ suits them perfectly. days later went to talk with the bank. It was a ‘The children are now 2 and 4. They go to a unique opportunity. We didn’t know Sint-Jans- Dutch-language school in Koekelberg, which Molenbeek particularly well, although we had has a crèche attached to it. In Pauline’s class frequently cycled along the canal.’ only two other children have parents who both ‘We have completely renovated and rebuilt speak Dutch. But it’s not a problem. Pauline the print shop. Part of it we rent out as a loft. is extremely proficient at languages and has It is very spacious and light – it’s a delight already picked up a quite a bit of French. I or a while we lived in an old house in to work from home, especially when the sun think it can only be enriching that they learn FHoeilaart. It was idyllic; we even had streams in. We have a roof terrace, and a to communicate with children speaking other a goat and a donkey. But we realised that a courtyard where the children can romp to their languages.’ house in the Flemish periphery around Brus- heart’s delight.’ ‘Meanwhile, we have got to know Sint-Jans- sels was not affordable. During our studies at ‘We are aware that Sint-Jans-Molenbeek has Molenbeek better and have discovered many the VUB in Brussels, we had come to know and a negative image, but it’s actually a friendly lovely places. The Scheutbospark, for example, love Brussels. We moved to the highest tower village. OK, if you leave something in your car, in Mettewielaan. It’s a natural park of 6 hec- in Brussels, the Brusilia-tower in Schaarbeek. don’t be surprised if a window is smashed. But tares, with a playground and a pasture where We had a nice apartment on the 32nd floor with at the same time there is a lot of social surveil- Scottish Galloway cows roam. It is peaceful, a magnificent view over the city.’ lance here. Everybody knows everybody. When yet surreal – you’re sitting watching cows ‘An architect friend told us that an old print I visit the fish shop, I’m offered a cup of mint graze while in the background is the Brussels shop was for sale in the canal zone in Sint- tea. Contacts with shopkeepers are much skyline with the South Tower…’ 25

The success of Dutch-language education in Brussels E du c ation No rose without thorns?

One fifth of the inhabitants of Brussels are

younger than 18 and the population is getting

younger. Every day 230,000 children and young

people go to school. How does the education

system work? And why are more and more

non-Dutch-speaking pupils going to Dutch-

language schools?

Brussels is multilingual. Dutch-speakers in Brussels from non-Dutch-speaking or mixed-language In what language do children are a small minority. So surely families. Currently Dutch-language education follow lessons? there aren’t many Dutch- attracts about 22 percent of Brussels pre- Brussels is indeed multilingual, although language schools? schoolers and 17 percent of primary school officially it’s bilingual. Yet it has no bilingual For Flemish people in Brussels it’s very im- children. In Dutch-language schools a small mi- education. According to the legislation, educa- portant that their children can follow lessons nority (10 percent pre-schoolers and 12 percent tion must be provided in one of the two official in Dutch, preferably in their own neigh- primary school children) comes from homog- languages: either in Dutch or in French. Conse- bourhoods. Considerable investments have enous Dutch-speaking families. One in three quently, in Brussels there are two independent therefore been made in an extensive network primary school children speak only French at education structures. One of these is the Dutch of schools. Currently it includes 118 primary home, and for one in three children another education stream, for which the Flemish Com- schools and 35 secondary schools, offering language is dominant in family life. In short, munity is responsible. about 80 courses. What’s more, these schools at the school gates of Dutch-language schools are easily accessible by public transport, even you’ll find plenty of the language diversity that In Dutch-language schools, for students commuting from outside Brussels. is increasingly colouring everyday life. should other languages still The network also includes schools for special be taught? education, boarding schools, centres for stu- Why do non-Dutch-speaking Of course. In the primary schools, children dent guidance, adult education centres etc. children go to a Dutch- learn French earlier than in Flanders; right speaking school? from first grade. By the fifth and sixth grades Do these schools also attract More and more parents are realising that you they receive up to five hours per week. In non-Dutch-speaking children? are better off in Brussels if you speak two or secondary education English, German and Increasingly. The number of pupils in Dutch- three languages. Knowing Dutch increases Spanish are on the curriculum. But the general language primary schools in Brussels almost your prospects on the job market. Other rea- subjects – mathematics, history, biology and so doubled between 1980 and 2000. The vast sons also play a role. French-language educa- on – must be taught in Dutch. majority of these additional students come tion is currently experiencing difficulties and » 26 The success of Dutch-language education No rose without thorns?

27

in Brussels E du c ation Children at

Saint Maria’s school in Schaarbeek »

is suffering from a negative image. Moreover, taught in Dutch. As a teacher you naturally Dutch-speaking parents to get together and in recent decades the Flemish have invested learn to take this diversity into account: every send their children to the same school. Other heavily in the development of their educational child should be given an equal chance. parents send their children to schools in the system. Nursery schools and kindergartens outskirts of Brussels or beyond. have been built in many primary schools, and Easier said than done. Do they school buildings revamped. These investments get extra support? And the future? have led to the blue-green logo with the N – Definitely. Teachers can go to an in-service According to population projections, the the logo of Dutch-language schools in Brussels training centre, where the programme is number of pre-schoolers and children in prima- – becoming a sign of quality, even among focused specifically on the situation in Brussels. ry education in Brussels is expected to increase foreign-language speakers. For example, most primary schools make use significantly in the coming years. Naturally of the provisions of the Brussels Educational It can’t be easy to teach in a Priority Policy and the Brussels Education Cen- In recent decades classroom where Dutch is the tre. Under the guidance of experts they can use the Flemish have mother-tongue of only a small innovative teaching methods to enhance the lan- proportion of pupils. guage proficiency of their pupils step by step. invested heavily in the Not necessarily. Teachers are highly motivated They also learn to relate better to the different development of their and rise to the challenge. In a typical class you customs and cultures, which also improves might have a couple of Dutch-speaking pupils, contacts with parents. After all, cooperation educational system. a few from families where both Dutch and with parents is absolutely essential: for children another language is spoken, and a majority to really master the Dutch language they have this also applies to the number of students in who do not speak Dutch at home – French, to come into contact with Dutch outside the Dutch-language schools. Existing schools will Arabic, Turkish, Alba- school, through books, TV programmes etc. not be able to cope with this influx. Should nian, Polish, Russian the Flemish government build extra Dutch- or some other And how do Dutch-speaking language schools for thousands of additional language. In some parents react to this evolution? students, when only a small percentage of classes there may Many parents consider classroom diversity to them are Dutch-speaking? Even though it could not be a single be enriching as it teaches their child respect, reduce the risk of dropping out and language Dutch-speaking openness and tolerance – values of great deficiencies? Should education in Brussels be child. Yet the importance in a multicultural world. Other wholly transformed towards multilingual edu- whole class parents worry whether their child might have cation? There is likely to be much debate over will still be a language deficiency. That encourages some these issues in the coming years. 28

More and more

non-Dutch-speakers

want to learn Dutch.

The Dutch Language

House in Brussels

can give them all in Brussels E du c ation the information,

guidance and

support they need.

A Dutch Language House A single address for Dutch lessons!

n the Dutch Language House you can get and so on. You may then enrol with a language opportunities to speak Dutch in everyday life, Iinformation on all Dutch-language courses in institute where you can decide the start and Patati Patata has been set up. On its website Brussels. It possesses an up-to-date overview duration of the lessons. you can look for someone who wants to talk of language courses from all its partners: Furthermore, the Dutch Language House is Dutch with you. You can go and have a drink welcome desks, private language schools and keen to improve the quality of courses so they together, visit a museum or a football match other language providers. You can learn Dutch meet your needs even better. This has included and agree that at least part of the time you will at various levels – basic to specialist – as well the establishment of a Taalgarage. This is an talk Dutch with each other. as for specific applications, like legal Dutch or advice centre for Dutch self-tuition, where business writing. non-Dutch-speakers can get all sorts of advice about self-tuition material. Tailor-made Together with you a decision is made as Patati to which course best suits you. Once your The Dutch Language House also carries out

language skills and academic achievements active promotion to non-Dutch-speaking inhab- www.huisnederlandsbrussel.be have been assessed, you will be referred to the itants of Brussels to encourage them to learn (multi-language site) most suitable language class. This involves an Dutch. This includes direct actions for specific www.patati.be individual interview reflecting your learning target groups such as traders, retailers and requirements, place of residence, practicalities shopping centres. And to give students more 29 Gunther Van Neste is director in Brussels E du c ation of the Dutch Language House in ­Brussels

‘Creating ­opportunities to speak Dutch’

ver 18,000 people approach the Dutch in expatriate magazines. For that audience So we work with the Dutch-language leisure O Language House each year; two-thirds we profile ourselves as a centre for self- groups in Brussels – community centres, of them do so to enhance their professional tuition. People can come to us for guidance youth associations, socio-cultural organisa- career. They want to increase their prospects and tailor-made courses – a Romanian nurse tions, libraries and so on. For that, we have set of finding a good job, perform better in their needs a different package than a lawyer in the up Bijt in Brussel. This project bridges the gap current job, broaden their basic knowledge of European Union.’ between students of Dutch and the Brussels Dutch. The rest want to learn Dutch for social Non-Dutch-speakers learning Dutch leisure sector. Each year we organise a Bijt in reasons: because their children go to a Dutch sometimes complain that there are far too Brussel day, at which many cultural organisa- school or youth group, for example. Or because few opportunities to speak Dutch in Brussels. tions give non-Dutch-speakers a taste of their they have Dutch-speaking friends.’ Flemish commuters in particular move quickly activities for free. Last year it attracted around ‘In recent years our target group has into French or English. Actually we should 3,000 visitors!’ expanded and diversified. Initially we got launch a campaign to convince them not to ‘Another great success is Patati Patata. mainly people from disadvantaged socio-eco- do this: if a non-Dutch-speaker tries to speak On the multi-language website www.patati. nomic groups through the doors: non-native Dutch in Brussels, you have to give him or her be individual non-Dutch-speakers can find a inhabitants of Brussels from the canal zone. the opportunity to do so and make a mistake – person with whom they can practice Dutch. For a few years we are attracting people from you can only learn a language if you are brave It also allows them to expand their circle of the European Union who work for various Eu- enough to make mistakes.’ friends at the same time. We launched Patati ropean institutions. That’s why we advertise ‘That’s why at the Dutch Language House Patata launched in March 2009 and a year in French and English language media and we try to create opportunities for practice. later already had over 800 participants.’ 30

in Brussels E du c ation

Studying in Brussels Why not you?

Did you know that Brussels is the largest student city in Belgium? Of detail at the information days organised by the seeks to improve the image of Brussels as a various educational establishments. student city. At Quartier Latin you will find course, in a big city these 75,000 The Brussels University Association is a col- a complete overview of all student accom- laboration between the Free University of Brus- modation on the private market – more than students are less noticeable than sels (VUB) and the Erasmus University College. 3,600 rooms. Potential tenants can go there for The Hogeschool-Universiteit Brussel (HUB) information and mediation. Furthermore, the in Leuven and Ghent. You could brings together the Catholic University of association has almost 500 comfortable and Brussels (KUB) with a number of institutes of affordable student rooms under its own man- therefore easily forget that Brussels higher education: for some subjects students agement, right in the centre of town, in the from the various educational establishments bustling district between the Stock Exchange follow joint lessons. and the canal. offers an almost infinite range of In addition, in Brussels you can also attend the Sint-Lukas University College of Art and Afraid of the big city? courses – also in the Dutch language. Design and the University College for Sciences Student Day takes place at the beginning of and Arts. At both you can follow creative or the academic year in early October. It’s a lively artistic education, from design and photogra- event full of workshops, tours, concerts and Each year 23,000 young people study at a phy to music and drama. parties. It helps new Dutch-language university or other institute of students find their higher education in Brussels. In recent years And student rooms? feet, although most Dutch-speaking universities and insti- Are you looking for student accommodation existing students tutes of higher education have grouped them- in Brussels but getting rather confused? Then seem to appreci- selves into two associations, both of which check out Quartier Latin. A joint initiative ate it too: together Quartier Latin: offer a complete range of courses, at bachelor’s of all the Dutch-language higher educational they turn Brussels www.qlb.be and master’s levels. These are explained in establishments in Brussels, this association upside-down. 31

Dutch in Brussels A bilingual city L anguage and government

32 Brussels is a multicultural and multilingual

city with French as the most important official

language. Under the Belgian constitution,

Brussels is bilingual: French and Dutch

A bilingual city have an equal footing. This is evident on the

street, where all street signs are bilingual for

example. How did this happen?

n a map of Belgium you immediately speaking upper and middle class incredibly This demand was met in the early 1960s. Osee that Brussels is like an island in quickly. Primary and secondary education Meanwhile, Brussels had continued to Flanders. The Brussels dialect and names of could be followed virtually only in French, become more and more French. In the 1950s the Brussels municipalities – Schaarbeek, An- so that French gradually also permeated the Brussels had already expanded to 19 – for- derlecht, Watermael-Boitsfort, Oudergem – still lower social classes. merly largely Flemish – municipalities. The clearly reveal the Flemish character of the city. In the same period, Brussels also attracted Flemish realised that measures were needed large numbers of newcomers, most of whom to prevent even more Flemish municipalities Becoming more French came from Flanders, which in the 19th century from becoming French-speaking. Furthermore, Until the end of the 18th century Brussels was suffering a period of economic decline and they wished to prevent Brussels, the capital was predominately Dutch-speaking. Obvi- famine. These newcomers also became more of a bilingual country, from becoming solely ously French was spoken at the court, but French: anyone who spoke only Dutch had no French-speaking. The first step was to limit the same thing applied for St. Petersburg and chance at all of advancing. If Flemish parents The Hague. Most inhabitants of Brussels used were able to afford it, they sent their children In the 1950s Brussels the vernacular Brabants, a Dutch dialect. It to French-language schools. The result was had already expanded was only after the independence of Belgium that their children became bilingual but their in 1830 that language relations changed. The grandchildren often spoke only French. This to 19 – formerly new kingdom had a government that was spread of the French language also took place largely Flemish – strictly centralised in Brussels, and chose outside the historical centre: surrounding French as the official language. French became municipalities such as Elsene, Schaarbeek, municipalities. the language of law, the administration, the Sint-Jans-Molenbeek and Anderlecht gradually army, culture, and the media. As the language became more and more French. Brussels to the nineteen municipalities. Brus- of the political and economic elite, French sels was then given a bilingual status and the developed to become a status symbol – even Bilingual Brussels Flemish people had to be properly represented in Flanders. In 1860, approximately 95% of At the end of the 19th century a broad Flemish in government and administration. Many of the people in Flanders spoke Dutch but these emancipation movement got underway. This these demands were achieved in 1963 when people had hardly any political or economic insisted for the first time that Dutch should be the Belgian parliament – with a two-thirds ma- power. They were governed, educated and tried considered on an equal par with French and jority of French-speakers and Dutch-speakers – in court in a language which most people did that both languages should become the official approved the language legislation. not understand. languages of government throughout Belgium. Belgium was governed from the cen- This was inconceivable for the French speak- On equal footing trally situated capital of Brussels. Gradually a ers: Wallonia must stay French speaking. The Since the 1960s, Belgium has been firmly divid- financial-economic elite also developed around Flemish people then adjusted their demands: ed into four language areas: the Dutch, French this political centre. Brussels gained a French- Flanders should also become monolingual. and German language areas and the bilingual » 33

L anguage and government

»

French-Dutch area of the Brussels Capital Re- you speak Dutch in a post office, or in the town gion. This division is based on the principle of hall, the person helping you at the counter territoriality. In accordance with this principle must also speak to you in Dutch. Although the language of the region must be used as the this right is guaranteed by law, it is not always official language for certain matters. respected in practice. In the Brussels Capital Region, which com- prises the 19 Brussels municipalities, there A multilingual city Language are two official languages, Dutch and French, In the meantime the population has diversi- fied. An increasing number of inhabitants of ­legislation An increasing number Brussels use other languages at home rather help than French or Dutch. Brussels has become of inhabitants of multilingual. In everyday reality French Language legislation is fairly Brussels use other remains the main official language, although complicated, particularly in among the young generation English is Brussels. If you have any languages at home advancing. At the same time many inhabitants problems and questions rather than French of Brussels are deciding to learn Dutch as a you can go to the Language or Dutch. second, third or fourth language: they realise it Legislation Support Centre can improve their employment opportunities. (Steunpunt Taalwetwijzer). which have equal status. This means, amongst There are of course other explanations: per- You can also order or other things, that you can use either French haps their children go to a Dutch school, they download a brochure to or Dutch in all the Brussels public institutions have Dutch-speaking friends or they realise clarify these matters: – including the OCMW and IRIS hospitals, the that without Dutch they are missing part of www.taalwetwijzer.be emergency services, and the fire brigade. If the bustling city life. 34

‘Why did I want to learn Dutch? In every vacancy

I saw bilingual as a condition’, says Madeleine Ki Shi.

‘It’s difficult to find a good job without Dutch.’ Alstublieft!

adeleine Ki Shi has lived in Brussels centre on Rouppeplein. Learning Dutch was course in Dutch. The course gave me very since 1999. ‘If like me you come from pretty easy. If necessary, I repeated a module. practical information about the labour market,

M L anguage and government Congo, it’s difficult to understand the education I also participated in the “conversation cor- housing, healthcare, how the government system. I did not know where I could learn ners.” They allow you to practice Dutch, with works and so on. All very useful, although Dutch. On one occasion – at a French evening Dutch volunteers. That is very helpful. Once some topics could have been covered in more class – I gave a book to a fellow student and during a conversation corner someone talked depth. For example, what are your rights if a said “Alstublieft!” – I had somehow accidentally about BON, the Brussels welcome desk that policeman knocks at your door? I ask this be- picked up that word. “You know Dutch?” she helps newcomers integrate. I wasn’t there at cause I’ve had to deal with phoney policemen, said. “Not at all”, I replied. “But I want to learn the time but a friend said to me afterwards: you see...’ it. I just don’t know where to!”’ “This is really something for you!” She was ‘Later I trained as an administrative assist- ‘So I ended up at Lethas, an adult education right. At BON I followed a social orientation ant at the VDAB. And now I’m on a course covering social legislation. Yes, in Dutch. Finally I got an identity card that’s valid for at least 5 years, so I can put all my time and effort into looking for a job. Next week I have an appointment with a VDAB consultant. Meanwhile, I work as a volunteer for Child & Prevention – I help little kids weigh and measure. It’s a great opportunity to brush up my Dutch!’

Be informed

The Dutch Language House informs you of the range of Dutch courses in Brussels. It also monitors the quality of the courses. BON, the Brussels welcome desk, guides people of a foreign origin towards citizenship in Belgium. www.huisnederlandsbrussel.be www.bonvzw.be

35

In order to understand

how Brussels is governed

today, it is necessary to

look at the recent history

The maze that is Brussels of Belgium. L anguage and government A crash course in the institutions

p to 1970, Belgium was a single state Uwith one parliament and one government. From 1970 the Belgian state was gradually transformed into a federal state consisting of a number of federated states.

Federated states In a federal state the citizens are governed simultaneously by the federal government and the government of their federated state. These governments have equal status and have their own powers. The federal state is responsible for justice in all the federated states, but not for the media. In the federated state of Flanders it is the Government of Flanders which decides which television companies can use the cable and what the teaching of history entails. This seems a simple principle, but in prac- tice it is more complicated. In fact, Belgium Flemish has two sorts of federated states which partly Community overlap: communities and regions.

Communities Belgium has three communities: the Flemish Community, the French Community and the German-language Community. These communi- German-language Community ties primarily have jurisdiction in their own language area. However, the Flemish and French French Communities also have jurisdiction in the bilin- gual Brussels Capital Region, because Brussels Community does not form a separate fourth community. 36 A crash course in the institutions

The communities are responsible for language, Brussels: one region, two culture, education, welfare and healthcare. communities A special arrangement was worked out for Regions Brussels in the 1980s. After all, there are Belgium also has three regions. The regions Dutch-speaking as well as French-speaking exercise their powers in well-defined territorial inhabitants of Brussels, and the capital of areas. The territory of the Flemish Region Belgium could not simply be classified under corresponds with the Dutch-language area. Flanders or Wallonia. Since 1989, the 19 The Brussels Capital Region comprises the municipalities of Brussels have jointly formed bilingual area of the Brussels Capital – the 19 a separate region: the Brussels Capital Region. municipalities of Brussels. The territory of the Walloon Region corresponds to the territory of Since 1989, the French and German language areas. The regions are responsible for matters the 19 municipalities of such as the economy, employment, agriculture, Brussels have jointly roads, town and country planning, and the environment. formed a separate region: the Brussels Brussels, capital of Flanders Every region and every community has its Capital Region. own government and its own parliament. In 1980 Flanders decided to combine the governments of the Flemish Community and At the same time, both the French Community the Flemish Region. This means there is only and the Flemish Community have powers in one Flemish Parliament and one Flemish Brussels. Government. Both are located in Brussels. The Flemish Parliament meets in its own Brussels Capital Region parliament building. The seat of the Flemish The Brussels Capital Region is the most impor- Government is on Martelarenplein. A large tant policy level in Brussels. It is responsible for part of Flemish administration is based in the so-called territorial matters such as traffic, the heart of Brussels. environment, urban development, public works,» 37

L anguage and government

Brussels » Capital Region housing, the economy and infrastructure. The Brussels Capital Region has its own parliament, its own government and its own administration. The Brussels Parliament is the parliament of the Brussels Capital Region. It consists of 89 directly elected members. Of these, 17 seats are reserved for the Dutch language group. The Brussels Parliament exercises its powers through ordinances. They must be approved by a majority in both language groups. The Brussels Capital Region has five minis- ters: two are French-speaking, two are Dutch- speaking, and one is the minister-president. It Flemish Region also contains a number of secretaries of state, where the parity between the language groups does not apply. Walloon Region The Flemish and French Communities also have powers in Brussels for subjects related to personal matters such as welfare, education and cultural affairs. Therefore both Communi- ties can take direct decisions in Brussels. For example, if the Flemish Parliament approves a decree pertaining to education, that decree also applies for the Dutch-language schools in Brussels. 38 Community Committees The VGC also has a board and a committee: Sometimes the Communities do not act directly, there are seventeen Dutch-speaking members but through their Community Commissions in of the Brussels Parliament on the board of the Brussels: the Flemish Community Commission VGC. There are Dutch-speaking Brussels minis- (VGC) and the French Community Commis- ters and a secretary of state in the committee. sion (Cocof). The VGC and Cocof are like the branches of the two communities in Brussels. Open to everyone The Joint Community Commission (GGC), in The Flemish Community and the Flemish Com- which both language groups are represented, munity Commission have established a dense was established in order to regulate matters network of Dutch organisations and facilities which are not exclusively the responsibility in Brussels: schools, community centres, facili- of one Community or the other, such as, for ties for the elderly, the media, a university example, the OCMWs (public welfare centres). hospital, libraries etc. This network provides sufficient backing for Dutch-speaking Flemish Community in Brussels inhabitants in Brussels to function fully in the The Flemish Community does not always act city. It is also emphati- directly in Brussels: sometimes it does so cally open to non- through the local administrative levels of the Dutch- provinces or municipalities. In Brussels this speakers. local administrative level is carried out by the Flemish Community Commission (VGC). The Flemish Community: VGC supports the Dutch-language provisions www.vlaanderen.be/ in Brussels in the fields of culture, education, brussel welfare and healthcare. In addition, the VGC Flemish Community helps to ensure that the Flemish decrees are Commission: implemented in Brussels. www.vgc.be 39 Media and information

Muntpunt is a multilingual information City newspaper. Brussel Deze Week is centre with a modern, metropolitan a weekly information sheet, distributed for free through displays, with an agenda library and meeting place. It is the in three languages as a supplement. One can also subscribe to the ­newspaper: flagship for the promotion of Dutch- www.brusseldezeweek.be City radio. language and Brussels-based fm brussel is a professional Dutch-language city radio initiatives and organisations. It is a station that broadcasts 24 hours a day on 98.8 MHz: www.fmbrussel.be. Its hot spot for residents, commuters, programme called fmworld is aimed specifically at non-Dutch-speakers. visitors and others. Muntpunt is due City television. The Dutch-language city televi- to open in 2012, but the website is sion station is tvbrussel. The station is accessible by cable across the whole Brus- already online. sels-Capital Region and is also digitally viewable: www.tvbrussel.be. Subtitles in French or English can be obtained via teletext. The programme called Brussels he centre will get a reading corner, meet- International is aimed specifically at non- Ting rooms, a bar, a sitting area and an Dutch-speakers. information desk. On www.muntpunt.be you can find all sorts of information on entertain- News site. ment, living and working in Brussels, as well Brusselnieuws.be is the as books, CDs, workshops, events and so on. Internet news site. It combines news It’s the intention that the website will later be from Brussel Deze Week, fm brussel made available in French and English. and tvbrussel and also presents its own Muntpunt is an initiative of the Flemish gov- news. Flanders Today. English-language ernment and the Flemish Community Commis- news concerning Brussels and Flanders sion (VGC). The two main partners of Muntpunt is available at www.flanderstoday.eu. are the Flemish Metropolitan Public Library Here you can also download the Flanders (HOB) and the Brussels Welcome and Promo- Today newspaper. tion Board (OPB, Onthaal en Promotie Brussel).