Claudio Cameroni Roberto Grizzi Renzo Lodi
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A cura di: Claudio Cameroni Roberto Grizzi Renzo Lodi VERZASCA BOULDER Valle Verzasca... Much more than bouldering. The very first impact with the vertical world upon entering the Verzasca valley is certainly the overwhelming vertical face of the dam. Construction started in 1960 and by harnessing the waters and changing the flow of the river it changed the landscape and history of the entire valley. Then, behind the dam, cradled at the feet of the villages, lies the still surface of the lake. Here the valley opens, and the visitor is regaled with sights that are spectacular, to say the least. First and foremost, comes the river, its emerald waters flowing wildly among polished rocks patterned with characteristic veins. Lavertezzo is the village with the double-arched bridge, one of the most popular attractions of the valley, equally loved by tourists, swimmers and divers. But the climbers’ eyes are drawn elsewhere; inevitably they will look towards the imposing, monolithic face of the Poncione d’Alnasca, towering high above the valley floor. Nearly 500 metres of compact, vertical rock on which some of the most epic stories of rock climbing in Ticino have been written. In times past, the local peasants used to climb to the base of these faces bringing their few goats to the high pastures. Climbing with their scythe and pannier, frequently barefooted, onto exposed ledges that make the blood freeze in your veins, they would also collect the meager hay offered by nature in this forlorn corner of the Alps, the so-called hay of the forests; and at times some would fall and die. Those were the sad times of poverty and hunger. The poverty and hunger that drove many away from the valley and into emigration. Old miserable houses built in the most remote places, endless stairs of stones leading up the steep flanks of the valleys, simple constructions, crosses, signs cut into the rock are all silent witnesses of the onerous path to carve out a living from these minute but vital spaces. This is a humble story, unknown, almost from another world, to most of us present-time visitors. We are the sons and daughters of a high-tech, convenience-driven, spoiled society, this goes beyond our imagination. We should not and cannot pretend to know this valley without at least having tried to listen to and understand this feeble voice telling us stories long gone. To all outdoor enthusiasts, trekkers, canoyneers, climbers, boulderers, mountain-bikers, whatever your activity may be, let us enter this valley and these spaces respectfully and on tip toes. We can all learn something which reaches beyond healthy physical activity, gorgeous landscapes, untouched nature and unforgettable experiences. In a valley dominated by stones it is not surprising to find a nearly endless choice of boulders. Around the village of Brione Verzasca they will please lovers of any climbing style and difficulty. They are strewn along the river, in the forest and even in the meadows. Wonderful boulders they are. The history of VerzascaBoulder started in 1999 when Bernd Zangerl and some friends came here. The media hype took care of the rest initiating a sort of pilgrimage of climbers coming from all over the world. Now, we want to finally unveil the holy grail and present one of the most astonishing and beautiful bouldering areas, a worthy addition to the other well-known Marco Volken Marco 1 climbing areas of Ticino. 9 “Verzasca boulder”. Dear Guests of Brione, At a time when the natural environment is succumbing to economic pressure and will soon only be enjoyed in “quiet zones” and the green parties no longer have an environmental protection program, it seems pointless to write some words on the “protection of bouldering areas”. Attention span in the most highly developed countries of the world has sunk to a historic low of less than 10 seconds. Most readers have already ‘changed channels’ or forget the problem no later than the next time they enter the beautiful area of Brione and want to have their fun. We forget so much - and attention is often the very first to go. As you can tell, I’m in a bad mood - my texts are always so critical. Today, I shouldn’t write a line. After so many years, still to be portrayed as the critic, is not something that I consider desirable. But for a long time I have been an observer of this deve- lopment. The beautiful Averstal, Cresciano, the Silvapark or the Rocklands - I got to know these places when they were still in their “primal state” and they inspired me to my achievements. Respect for nature was always an important concern for me, because the experience of sport and nature cannot be separated. I don’t want to paint a pessimistic picture here, but let’s be honest: who thinks about nature, besides the travel industry and the companies who want to sell their products to the market. The modern outdoor sportsman or woman does not think first of all about nature, but about performance, fitness, weather, skin condition and whether their outfit is cool. They think about their camera battery levels and when the next social media post needs to be done. The ambitious outdoor freaks are all about the piece of rock that is numerically immortalized in a guide, or otherwise enjoys a certain degree of familiarity. That’s it! They don’t give a shit how the area surrounding the rock looks. It’s therefore ironic but not surprising if someone shits under a boulder as has already happened in some areas. At a time when climbing will soon enjoy Olympic status, we must really consider how we should deal with our areas in the future. The climber has developed into a tourist and has to face his responsibilities. We also have to deal responsibly with the re- sources at our disposal. But how do we bring climbers, clubs, companies and tourism leaders together? And what will it bring? Lastly, as in politics, there is a lot of talk and discussion, programs are being worked out and nobody will want to take responsi- bility. The outdoor market certainly has the greatest influence in this respect and can have a lot of effect. It is nice that some companies are already investing money in preserving and protecting nature reserves. The “crag clean-up days” are a positive development and are reassuring. I doubt, however, that these “cleansing” actions can cope with the onslaught of the future. I just hope, that we don`t need clean up Stefan Kuerzi days in Brione in the future. 1 12 Vecchio Brione 7b 1 Beat Kammerlander Vecchio Leone 8b 1 Beat Kammerlander Dear Guests of Brione, I do not know how we should deal with all this? Enlightenment is Sisyphus’ work and will remain so, and the question of a solution is ultimately only an expression of impatience. Perhaps there is no solution in a society that throws a third of their food away. Let’s sit together and discuss when I’m in a better mood. I know only one thing: a little more attention could help a lot – I am starting to sound like the Pope - and spare some discussion. Adventure always in- volves a little anarchy, but the anarchy should not apply to the natural space and the inhabitants living there. Have you ever claimed that bouldering is different? Now we have the chance to pro- ve this and leave the teething problems behind us. My gut feeling tells me that it will get better. A cool “Next Generation” is coming, one which is already aware of the problem and will ensure that the next generation will have their fun in Brione, Magic Wood, the Rocklands or anywhere else in the world. I have visited many places all over the world and Brione is one the most beautiful bouldering areas I have ever seen. In 1999 I started to come here with my friends. Year after year the number of boulders increased, but after some discussions with the locals we decided not to publish any information about this “sensitive” area. 20 years later a lot has changed: Togehter with the local authorities everything has been set up to welcome the Boulderes here in the valley. I wish you beautiful expe- riences in this unique setting, because that hasn`t changed yet. Enjoy and respect :-) Bernd Zangerl ps: ..and don`t forget to enjoy the local food here in the village :-) 15 Ambiente. L’ambiente di arrampicata è molto bello e variato. Oltre che arrampicare immersi in boschi ritornati selvaggi è possibile anche farlo in un vero e proprio labirinto di blocchi ai bordi dello spettacolare torrente Verzasca. Ma attenzione!.. “Così bello ... così pericoloso!” Altri settori sono invece situati in bucolici prati (ancora lavorati dai contadini per la fienagione e per questo motivo praticabili in un periodo limitato dell’anno) in prossimità di tipiche case rustiche verzaschesi. L’arrampicata si svolge su massi granitici (Gneiss) di ottima qualità, che propongono una grande varietà di stili, passando dalle placche agli strapiombi senza dimenticare i muri a tacchette. Lo stile è generalmente tecnico, in diversi passaggi si richiede comunque una buona forza nelle dita. I periodi migliori per arrampicare in Valle Verzasca sono la primavera e l’autunno. Environment. You will be climbing in a beautiful and varied environment. You can climb in pristine forests and in a true maze of boulders located by the spectacular Verzasca river. But beware, the river may be beautiful, it is at least as dangerous.