VERZASCA
BOULDERRenzo Lodi Roberto Grizzi Claudio Cameroni A curadi: Valle Verzasca... Much more than bouldering.
The very first impact with the vertical world upon entering the Verzasca valley is certainly the overwhelming vertical face of the dam. Construction started in 1960 and by harnessing the waters and changing the flow of the river it changed the landscape and history of the entire valley. Then, behind the dam, cradled at the feet of the villages, lies the still surface of the lake. Here the valley opens, and the visitor is regaled with sights that are spectacular, to say the least. First and foremost, comes the river, its emerald waters flowing wildly among polished rocks patterned with characteristic veins. Lavertezzo is the village with the double-arched bridge, one of the most popular attractions of the valley, equally loved by tourists, swimmers and divers. But the climbers’ eyes are drawn elsewhere; inevitably they will look towards the imposing, monolithic face of the Poncione d’Alnasca, towering high above the valley floor. Nearly 500 metres of compact, vertical rock on which some of the most epic stories of rock climbing in Ticino have been written. In times past, the local peasants used to climb to the base of these faces bringing their few goats to the high pastures. Climbing with their scythe and pannier, frequently barefooted, onto exposed ledges that make the blood freeze in your veins, they would also collect the meager hay offered by nature in this forlorn corner of the Alps, the so-called hay of the forests; and at times some would fall and die. Those were the sad times of poverty and hunger. The poverty and hunger that drove many away from the valley and into emigration. Old miserable houses built in the most remote places, endless stairs of stones leading up the steep flanks of the valleys, simple constructions, crosses, signs cut into the rock are all silent witnesses of the onerous path to carve out a living from these minute but vital spaces. This is a humble story, unknown, almost from another world, to most of us present-time visitors. We are the sons and daughters of a high-tech, convenience-driven, spoiled society, this goes beyond our imagination. We should not and cannot pretend to know this valley without at least having tried to listen to and understand this feeble voice telling us stories long gone. To all outdoor enthusiasts, trekkers, canoyneers, climbers, boulderers, mountain-bikers, whatever your activity may be, let us enter this valley and these spaces respectfully and on tip toes. We can all learn something which reaches beyond healthy physical activity, gorgeous landscapes, untouched nature and unforgettable experiences. In a valley dominated by stones it is not surprising to find a nearly endless choice of boulders. Around the village of Brione Verzasca they will please lovers of any climbing style and difficulty. They are strewn along the river, in the forest and even in the meadows. Wonderful boulders they are. The history of VerzascaBoulder started in 1999 when Bernd Zangerl and some friends came here. The media hype took care of the rest initiating a sort of pilgrimage of climbers coming from all over the world. Now, we want to finally unveil the holy grail and present one of the most astonishing and beautiful bouldering areas, a worthy addition to the other well-known
Marco Volken 1 Marco climbing areas of Ticino.
9
“Verzasca boulder”.
Dear Guests of Brione,
At a time when the natural environment is succumbing to economic pressure and will soon only be enjoyed in “quiet zones” and the green parties no longer have an environmental protection program, it seems pointless to write some words on the “protection of bouldering areas”. Attention span in the most highly developed countries of the world has sunk to a historic low of less than 10 seconds. Most readers have already ‘changed channels’ or forget the problem no later than the next time they enter the beautiful area of Brione and want to have their fun. We forget so much - and attention is often the very first to go.
As you can tell, I’m in a bad mood - my texts are always so critical. Today, I shouldn’t write a line. After so many years, still to be portrayed as the critic, is not something that I consider desirable. But for a long time I have been an observer of this deve- lopment. The beautiful Averstal, Cresciano, the Silvapark or the Rocklands - I got to know these places when they were still in their “primal state” and they inspired me to my achievements. Respect for nature was always an important concern for me, because the experience of sport and nature cannot be separated.
I don’t want to paint a pessimistic picture here, but let’s be honest: who thinks about nature, besides the travel industry and the companies who want to sell their products to the market. The modern outdoor sportsman or woman does not think first of all about nature, but about performance, fitness, weather, skin condition and whether their outfit is cool. They think about their camera battery levels and when the next social media post needs to be done. The ambitious outdoor freaks are all about the piece of rock that is numerically immortalized in a guide, or otherwise enjoys a certain degree of familiarity. That’s it! They don’t give a shit how the area surrounding the rock looks. It’s therefore ironic but not surprising if someone shits under a boulder as has already happened in some areas.
At a time when climbing will soon enjoy Olympic status, we must really consider how we should deal with our areas in the future. The climber has developed into a tourist and has to face his responsibilities. We also have to deal responsibly with the re- sources at our disposal. But how do we bring climbers, clubs, companies and tourism leaders together? And what will it bring? Lastly, as in politics, there is a lot of talk and discussion, programs are being worked out and nobody will want to take responsi- bility. The outdoor market certainly has the greatest influence in this respect and can have a lot of effect. It is nice that some companies are already investing money in preserving and protecting nature reserves. The “crag clean-up days” are a positive development and are reassuring. I doubt, however, that these “cleansing” actions can cope with the onslaught of the future. I just hope, that we don`t need clean up days in Brione in the future. 1 Stefan Kuerzi
12
Vecchio Brione 7b 1 Beat Kammerlander
Vecchio Leone 8b 1 Beat Kammerlander Dear Guests of Brione, I do not know how we should deal with all this? Enlightenment is Sisyphus’ work and will remain so, and the question of a solution is ultimately only an expression of impatience. Perhaps there is no solution in a society that throws a third of their food away. Let’s sit together and discuss when I’m in a better mood. I know only one thing: a little more attention could help a lot – I am starting to sound like the Pope - and spare some discussion. Adventure always in- volves a little anarchy, but the anarchy should not apply to the natural space and the inhabitants living there.
Have you ever claimed that bouldering is different? Now we have the chance to pro- ve this and leave the teething problems behind us. My gut feeling tells me that it will get better. A cool “Next Generation” is coming, one which is already aware of the problem and will ensure that the next generation will have their fun in Brione, Magic Wood, the Rocklands or anywhere else in the world.
I have visited many places all over the world and Brione is one the most beautiful bouldering areas I have ever seen. In 1999 I started to come here with my friends. Year after year the number of boulders increased, but after some discussions with the locals we decided not to publish any information about this “sensitive” area. 20 years later a lot has changed: Togehter with the local authorities everything has been set up to welcome the Boulderes here in the valley. I wish you beautiful expe- riences in this unique setting, because that hasn`t changed yet.
Enjoy and respect :-)
Bernd Zangerl
ps: ..and don`t forget to enjoy the local food here in the village :-)
15
Ambiente.
L’ambiente di arrampicata è molto bello e variato. Oltre che arrampicare immersi in boschi ritornati selvaggi è possibile anche farlo in un vero e proprio labirinto di blocchi ai bordi dello spettacolare torrente Verzasca. Ma attenzione!.. “Così bello ... così pericoloso!” Altri settori sono invece situati in bucolici prati (ancora lavorati dai contadini per la fienagione e per questo motivo praticabili in un periodo limitato dell’anno) in prossimità di tipiche case rustiche verzaschesi. L’arrampicata si svolge su massi granitici (Gneiss) di ottima qualità, che propongono una grande varietà di stili, passando dalle placche agli strapiombi senza dimenticare i muri a tacchette. Lo stile è generalmente tecnico, in diversi passaggi si richiede comunque una buona forza nelle dita. I periodi migliori per arrampicare in Valle Verzasca sono la primavera e l’autunno.
Environment.
You will be climbing in a beautiful and varied environment. You can climb in pristine forests and in a true maze of boulders located by the spectacular Verzasca river. But beware, the river may be beautiful, it is at least as dangerous. Other bouldering areas are located in scenic meadows in the proximity of typical stone houses of the Verzasca valley. These meadows are still used by farmers for gaining hay. Therefore, access to these sites is restricted in certain times of the year.
The boulders are of compact gneis, which offers a vast variety of climbing styles ranging from slabs and crimpy face climbs all the way to overhangs. Climbing requires a good technique, but many problems will not go without a fair amount of finger strength. The best climbing seasons are spring and autumn.
Umgebung.
Das Bouldergelände ist wunderschön und vielfältig. Man klettert inmitten verwilderter Wälder, teilweise in einem regelrechten Labyrinth aus Felsblöcken am Ufer der spektakulären Verzasca. Aber Vorsicht! Der Wildbach ist so schön wie gefährlich! Andere Sektoren sind von malerischen Wiesen umgeben (die weiterhin von Bauern gemäht werden und deshalb nur während bestimmter Jahreszeiten zugänglich sind) in unmittelbarer Nähe ortstypischer Verzascheser Bauernhäuser.
Gebouldert wird an Granitblöcken (Gneis) von erstklassiger Qualität. Sie bieten eine grosse Vielfalt, von plattigen Passagen über Klettereien an kleinen Leisten bis zu Überhängen. Der Kletterstil ist grundsätzlich technisch, oft ist aber auch gute Fingerkraft gefordert. Am besten lässt sich im Verzascatal im Frühling und Herbst klettern. Marco Volken 1 Marco
27 Come arrivare: accessi. How to get here: access. Wie man ankommt: Zugänge. D A2 Airolo S. Gottardo A Zurigo Basilea
Realp Passo del Gottardo Furkapass Airolo Bedretto F Faido Passo del Lavorgo Lucomagno I Nufenenpass S. Carlo Fusio Chironico Altirolo Sobrio Giornico Bodio Sonogno Biasca Bignasco Passo del Bosco Gurin Osogna San Bernardino Brione Cresciano Lavertezzo Claro Maggia Roveredo
Locarno Gordola Bellinzona Tenero Domodossola Sempione Ascona
Verbania Lugano
Lago Maggiore
Varese
Chiasso Como
A2 Milano
30 GPS 704.597 127.438
Per poter facilitare gli spostamenti nei settori di arrampicata e individuare più facilmente i blocchi, abbiamo introdotto da qualche tempo i punti GPS. Nei settori sono presenti uno o più punti GPS a dipendenza della vastità degli stessi. Le coordinate GPS che noi forniamo sono basate sui dati topografici della carta nazionale Svizzera, quindi differenti da quelle internazionali. Generalmente gli apparecchi GPS e i Tablet in commercio possono indi- care o convertire direttamente dette coordinate. In rete, si trovano anche diverse APP. da poter utilizzare. È disponibile una ulteriore possibilità, entrando nel sito www.ornitho.ch/index.php?m_id=48&langu=it Qui si possono trasformare automaticamente i propri dati con gli strumenti disponibili.
To facilitate finding the boulders we have introduced GPS tagging within the sectors. Depending on the size of the sector, there are one or more GPS tagged points, which will make it easier to move around and find the right boulder. The GPS coordinates used in this book are based on the Swiss coordinate grid, they do not correspond to the international coordinates. GPS navigators and tablets can usually convert the coordinates and several apps can be downloaded which also convert coordinates between different systems. Finally, a converter can be found on the site www.ornitho.ch/index.php?m_id=48&langu=it which allows to easily convert the Swiss coordinates into GPS coordinates.
Die verschiedenen Sektoren sind je nach Grösse mit einem oder mehreren GPS-Punkten markiert. Dies erleichtert die Navigation zwischen den Sektoren und das Auffinden der Blöcke. Die von uns angegebenen GPS-Koordinaten beruhen auf der Landeskarte der Schweiz und haben somit ein anderes Format als die international üblichen. In der Regel können GPS-Geräte und handelsübliche Tablets solche Koordinaten anzeigen oder direkt umrechnen. Daneben gibt es im Internet zahlreiche Apps, die das ebenfalls schaffen. Eine weitere Möglichkeit bietet die Webseite www.ornitho.ch/index.php?m_id=48&langu=de, auf der man eigene Daten automatisch konvertieren kann. D. Martignoni / Y. Roncareggi Roncareggi 1 D. Martignoni / Y.
31 1. Lavertezzo - Ai Poss Pag. 38 2. Limited edition Pag. 42 3. Chiossetto Pag. 44 4. Ganne Pag. 46 5. Ballerman Pag. 68 6. Black Pearl Pag. 74 7. Fulcrum Pag. 78 8. Kubalik Pag. 84 9. Rose Pag. 86 10. Pièe Pag. 88 11. Pamplemousse Pag. 94 12. Frogger Pag. 100 13. Vecchio Leone Pag. 106 14. Sbandiera bianca Pag. 110 15. Brionesque - Amber Pag. 114 16. Atlantis Pag. 124 17. Molonk Pag. 128 18. Pianesc Pag. 136 19. Salamandre Pag. 144
In tutto il settore è vietata l’arrampicata nel periodo dal 31 marzo al 15 ottobre! Climbing is prohibited in the entire area from March 31st to October 15th! Vom 31. März bis zum 15. Oktober ist das Klettern im gesamten Sektor verboten!
Ganne 4
0.7 km
Chiossetto 3
3 km
Limited Edition (Aquino) 2 1 km Lavertezzo Ponte Dei Salti 1 km Ai Poss 1
11 km
Gordola
32 Sonogno Frasco Gerra
Brione Verzasca 756 m
12
11
Al Pièe 10 15 - 16 -17 -18 -19 1.6 km 13 14
Pianesc
16 6 15 18 17 5
19 9 8 4
7
Sonogno Ganne Frasco Gerra
Sentierone 3 Brione Verzasca Chiossetto 756 m Lavertezzo Strada cantonale Main road Hauptstrasse Gordola Tenero Sentiero Path Weg
Paese Village Dorf
Cascinali Rural buildings Bauernhäuser 12
11
Al Pièe 10 15 - 16 -17 -18 -19 1.6 km 13 14
Pianesc
16 6 15 18 17 5
19 9 8 4
7
Ganne
Sentierone 3 Chiossetto Lavertezzo Strada cantonale Main road Hauptstrasse Gordola Tenero Sentiero Path Weg
Paese Village Dorf
Cascinali Rural buildings Bauernhäuser
33 Verzasca area boulder. 1 Arthur Delicque 4Ganne.
DIFFICOLTÀ PASSAGGI
3 > 5+ 13
6a > 6b 16
6b+ > 6c 10
6c+ > 7a 27
7a+ > 7b 25
7b+ > 7c 15
7c+ > 8a 26
8a+ > ... 8
46 Sonogno Frasco Gerra
Brione Verzasca 756 m
12
11
Al Pièe 10 15 - 16 -17 -18 -19 13 Bernd Zangerl 14 Wie im Urlaub 7c+ 1 Archiv Bernd Zangerl Pianesc
16 6 15 18 17 5
19 9 8 4
7
Ganne
Sentierone
51 3 5 min. 50 Chiossetto Lavertezzo Strada cantonale Main road Hauptstrasse 48
b Gordola 47 49 a Tenero
GPS Sentiero Path Weg 704.658 127.170
Paese Village Dorf 44 46 43
45 b 39 40 a 38 36 41 b a Cascinali Rural buildings Bauernhäuser 37 232 42 24
35 b 28 27 a a 22 34 b 33 30 29 31
26 B 32 18 17 a 21 25 19 b
16
20 15 14 13
b a 12
GPS 11 704.865 a b 127.021 9 3 10
2 8 b a b 4 a 5 6 7
A 1 51 5 min. 50
48
b 47 49 a
GPS 704.658 127.170
44 46 43
45 b 39 40 a 38 36 41 b a 37 232 42 24
35 b 28 27 a a 22 34 b 33 30 29 B 31 26 32 18 17 a 21 25 19 b
16
20 15 14 13
b a 12
GPS 11 704.865 a b 127.021 9 3 10
2 8 b a b 4 a 5 6 7
A 1 48 Ganne 4 Masso 08a Masso 08b
A A
1 2 3 4 1 Klassiker 7c 3 Fuoco di paglia 8b
1a Giuliano Cameroni
1A Safari 6c+ 4 Capolungo 7a
2 Good vibrations 8a 4A La manovra 6c
Uscita come n. 1
Bernd Zangerl Masso 24-1 Project 1 Archiv Bernd Zangerl
51 Chris Schulte General Disarray 8b 1 Stefan Kuerzi Diego Cameroni Lato B 7b 1 Marco Volken Filippo Sala Anime planet 7a 1 Stefan Kuerzi Alice Tavola Pro touch trav. low 7a 1 Stefan Kuerzi Sonogno Frasco Gerra
Brione Verzasca 756 m
10Pièe. 12 DIFFICOLTÀ PASSAGGI
3 > 5+ 1
6a > 6b 10
6b+ > 6c 3 11
6c+ > 7a 2 Al Pièe 10 7a+ > 7b 4 15 - 16 -17 -18 -19
7b+ > 7c 4 13 14 7c+ > 8a 3 Pianesc 8a+ > ... - 16 6 15 18 17 5
19 9 8 4
7
Ganne
Sentierone 3 Chiossetto Lavertezzo Strada cantonale Main road Hauptstrasse Gordola Tenero Sentiero Path Weg
Paese Village Dorf
Cascinali Rural buildings Bauernhäuser
Dave Graham Idroman 4 1 Sam Bié
88 11. Pamplemousse 12. Frogger 111
Ristorante 10 Al Pièe 8 9
7
6
5
A
4 3
12
2
GPS 704.597 127.438
~150 m
7 min.
red
1 6. Black Pearl 89 17Molonk. DIFFICOLTÀ PASSAGGI
3 > 5+ 7
6a > 6b 10
6b+ > 6c 6
6c+ > 7a 17
7a+ > 7b 8
7b+ > 7c 2
7c+ > 8a 4
8a+ > ... 2
Katja Saurwein Molonk 7c 1 Stefan Kuerzi
128 Molonk 17 Masso 07b Masso 07c
A
3A
3-4 5 6 7 8 9 10
3A Richart Löwenherz 8a 7 Big sidepull 5+
1a Bernd Zangerl Uscita come n. 9
4 Undercling problem 6a+ 8 Il segreto degli husky 7a
5 Sidepull problem 6a 9 Optima 7a
In piedi 6a+
6 Mantel problem 5 10 ... 6a
Giuliano Cameroni Should I stay or should I go 7a 1 Stefan Kuerzi
133 18Pianesc.
DIFFICOLTÀ PASSAGGI
3 > 5+ 14
6a > 6b 6
6b+ > 6c 2 In tutto il settore è vietata l’arrampicata 6c+ > 7a 2 nel periodo dal 31 marzo al 15 ottobre! 7a+ > 7b 8 Climbing is prohibited in the entire area from 7b+ > 7c 5 March 31st to October 15th!
7c+ > 8a 2 Vom 31. März bis zum 15. Oktober ist das Klettern im gesamten Sektor verboten! 8a+ > ... 1
136 Pianesc 13. Vecchio 18 Leone H2O
Pianesc
12 min. 16. 1 Atlantis
2
3 4 5 7 8 a b
6 9 GPS 10 704.235 127.150
11 17. Molonk
12
13
14
19. 16 Salamandre 155 1 Arthur Delicque
137 Pianesc 18 Masso 01 Masso 02
1 2 3 4 1 2 1 ... 4 1 Pluto 7b
2 Zelig 6c+ 2 Weisendach 7b+
Senza bordo superiore Uscita come n.3 3 ... 4
Masso 04-05
4 Woody 5+
Masso 03 n.5 Sett. 16
1 2 1 2 3 4 1 Mister Bean 7a+
2 One move 7b 1 2 3 1 ... 6b
2 ... 6a 1 La vela 6c
2 Susi traverse 7c 3 Gandalf 6b Traversa bassa da dx a sx Uscita come n. 1 3 Brione arête 6b
4 Gentleman 4
Placca con spigolo a sx Uscita come n. 3
138 Rachel Belschner - Brione arête 6b 1 Stefan Kuerzi © I diritti di traduzione, di riproduzione e di adattamento, totale o parziale, con qualsiasi mezzo sono riservati per tutti i paesi.
Verzasca Boulder
Editore Ticino Boulder ticinoboulder.ch
A cura di Claudio Cameroni Roberto Grizzi Renzo Lodi
Grafica Studiodigrafica Grizzi Gordevio - Svizzera
Stampa Salvioni Arti Grafiche Bellinzona - Svizzera
1a edizione - 2019
➜ Giuliano Cameroni Poison the well 8c+ (First ascent) 1 Paul Robinson
Foto di copertina: Dave Graham 1 Sam Bié