Journal of Siberian Federal University. Humanities & Social Sciences 1 (2015 8) 114-120 ~ ~ ~

УДК 801.313

Culinary Russianisms in Guides to Russia

Ksenia A. Egorova* Pskov State University 2 Lenin square, Pskov, 180000, Russia

Received 16.10.2014, received in revised form 30.11.2014, accepted 04.12.2014 The article is devoted to the xenonymic Russianisms, one of the major issues of interlinguoculturology, a comparatively new linguistic discipline, which studies language in its secondary cultural orientation. In this article the main means of xenonymic formation are being discussed as applied to the culinary examples from the up-to-date authentic travel guides about Russia. The paper dwells upon the culinary Russianisms which exist in English and the culinary occasional xenonyms which are frequent in the texts of travel guide literature. Keywords: interlinguoculturology, authentic text, secondary cultural orientation of the language, Russian- Culture –Oriented English, culinary xenonymic Russianisms, xenonymic loans, lexical and semantic calques, xenonymic analogues, hybrid xenonyms, xenonymic descriptive names. Research area: philology.

Introduction with such orientation being primary for it. A Due to the processes of globalization and language’s orientation towards a foreign culture “globanglization”, each culture has a chance (external) is considered to be its secondary and opportunity to express itself in the world cultural orientation. As our world is multilingual, by means of specific kind of communication – it is inevitable that, although historically each Foreign Language Culture Description. The language is primarily oriented towards its own Russian scholar V.V.Kabakchi and his scientific (“internal”) culture, it is also used to speak of school have been working in a new branch of foreign (“external”) cultures as well. linguistics called interlinguoculturology which The names of elements of cultures may studies language in its secondary cultural be divided into culturonyms, polyonyms and orientation (Кабакчи, 1998, 17). Each language is idioculturonyms (idionyms and xenonyms). The characterized by its functional duality. Functional theory of ILCology studies the characteristic dualism of language is the cornerstone of the features and development of the specialized theory of interlinguoculturology (ILCology). The language – Foreign – Culture-Oriented main idea of functional duality is based upon Language (FCO-English). FCO-English, being the fact that it is presupposed historically that a a global phenomenon, is characteristic of any language is oriented to its own internal culture world culture and language. The scientific school

© Siberian Federal University. All rights reserved * Corresponding author E-mail address: [email protected] – 114 – Ksenia A. Egorova. Culinary Russianisms in Guides to Russia by Prof. Kabakchi has been studying Russian- the Soviet linguistics xenonymic loans had been Culture-Oriented English (RCO-English) as a known as “barbarisms”, “exoticisms”, “culture- variety of Foreign-Culture-Oriented Language. bound lexis”, “xenisms”, “transliterations”, Due to some reasons, the fastest development of “transcriptions”, “retents” and “lacunas” or RCO-English is observed in English travel guides lexical gaps”. In the contemporary theory of literature about Russia. inter-cultural communication, this type of lexis is The national Russian cuisine is an integral considered to belong to the “lacunary concepts” part of the Russian culture and Russia’s everyday that haven’t got any equivalents in other cultures. life. The culinary subject is being mostly The more detailed approach can be found in the highlighted in the up-to-date travel guides. The book by O.A. Leontovich “The Russians and authors pay special attention to the names of the The Americans: the paradoxes of inter-cultural Russian food and its food ritual. communication”. Any English-written travel guide includes in Xenonymic borrowing is a basic means itself a section about the local food, and as a rule, of xenonymic formation in Foreign-Culture- is supplied by a phrase book or the Russian menu Oriented Language. It provides reliable guide, where the Russian culinary terms are xenonymic convertibility that enables to restore listed and explained. Therefore, the description of an idionymic prototype (an original word or Russian food is usually full of respective names of phrase) with a high level of accuracy while culinary dishes. As most readers are usually not naming a specific element of an external culture familiar with these culinary xenonyms, the texts (idionym): водка  vodka; борщ  borshch. about the Russian cuisine are usually supplied Borrowing is a universal and the most common with the appropriate explanations and comments way of xenonymic formation. Most of the (the so-called “parallel attachment” – Kabakchi existing culinary xenonyms in Russian-Culture- 1998: 52-54) so that a reader could grasp the idea Oriented English are loan-words. In his book, what kind of food is mentioned in the text. The Dictionary of Russia, Prof. Kabakchi V.V. Although basic ways of forming xenonyms has collected, written down and analyzed more are more or less universal, each sphere of than 2500 cultural terms and the traditional communication has its specific features. It xenonymic variants which are widely used applies to food too. Texts devoted to Russian food in the authentic texts of RCO-English. “The demonstrate the following types of xenonyms: terminology of The Russian cuisine is fairly a) xenonymic loans; b) lexical and semantic well known in the English-speaking world, calques c) hybrid xenonyms; d) descriptive because the culinary theme inevitably arises xenonymic names; e) inter-cultural xenonymic in direct inter-cultural contacts. One should be analogues; f) hyperonyms. particularly careful about referring to culinary dishes in intercultural communication because Examples each name will be used to identify to respective Xenonymic loans drew the linguists’ dish” (Кабакчи, 2002, с.544). The last 3rd еdition attention to themselves in the 20th century within of The Oxford English Dictionary, which has the theory of literary translation. The Soviet been widely regarded as an accepted authority in lexicologists wrote a lot about the Russian loans English, states 32 basic xenonyms of the Russian in different world languages and there had been origin which have become a part of the Global a special term for such words as “Sovietisms”. In English vocabulary within the sphere “Food”. – 115 – Ksenia A. Egorova. Culinary Russianisms in Guides to Russia

According to the OED, the first Russianisms specialties from many of the regions that made that entered English were the following: kvass up the Soviet Union. Russia was just one of (1556), beluga (1591), stеrlet (1591), sevruga fifteen republics of the Soviet Union, each of (1591), pirog (1662). They were first cited in which maintained its own culinary traditions. Giles Fletcher’s book Of Russe Commonwealth. Thus contemporary Russian cuisine includes Fletcher was the first English diplomat who wrote elements from the Baltic region (where food is about Muscovy. In the 19th century the following rich in butter, cream and eggs) to the mountains new culinary Russian words supplemented border China (where standard fare is fermented the English language’s lexicon: vodka (1802), mare’s milk and exotic lamb stews) to the Sea kasha (1808), shchi (1824), pivo (1873), bliny of Okhotsk (where local delicacies include balyk (1889), borsch (1884), zakuska (1885), paskha and vesiga – the dried and salted fillet and back- (1885) (meaning «a rich Russian cheesecake or bone of the sturgeon) to the far north beyond dessert traditionally eaten at Easter»), pirozhok the arctic circle (where the inhabitants feast on (1887), coulibiac (1889), rassolnik (1899). It is stroganina – frozen raw fish) (Goldstein, 1999, interesting to know that the xenonym «pirog» xvii). had been first cited in 1662, but the diminutive In many cases the non-Russian culinary word «pirozhok» meaning “little pirog” became xenonyms get into the English by means of the the part of the English vocabulary only two Russian language which therefore serves as a centuries after. bridge between Europe and Asia. Hence, such The third, most productive period in xenonyms as shashlik, Mukuzani, Saperavi, xenonymic loaning of the culinary terms, being of the Caucasian origin in fact, were first happened in the 20th century (in the Tsarist Russia cited in the English texts as the Slavic loan-words and after the Revolution of 1917 in the Soviet according to the OED’s data. time). Most of the culinary Russianisms appeared Therefore, we must admit the fact that under in the English language at this time: smetana the term “Russian xenonyms” (or: xenonymic (1909), ukha (1911), tvorog (1918), kissel (1924), Russianisms)“Russism” in a broad scope of pelmeni (1926), samogon (1928), zubrovka (1944), its meaning the following senses are implied kielbasa (1953), solyanka (1958), malossol (1959), by linguistics: а) words of the Russian origin, Stolichnaya (1966), a meat kebab of Caucasian pertaining the strong formal semantic relations cuisine shashlik (1925) and two sorts of Georgian with corresponding Russian words; b) words of wine – Mukuzani (1948) and Saperavi (1926). the Russian origin that have lost completely or One of the characteristic features of partially their formal semantic relations with The Russian cuisine is its multiculturalism. corresponding Russian words; c) words of the It comprises of the Belarusian, Ukrainian, non-Russian origin that had been loaned by the Armenian, Georgian, Azeri, Kazakh cuisine. Russian language before the word appeared in Many dishes of non-Russian Soviet republics other languages. In this case the Russian language were integrated into the international diet of acts as an intermediate language (the term by Soviet people making the present-day Russian Filipovich R.) (Айдукович, 2002, с.294) cuisine diverse and multicultured. Darra The culinary Russianisms of the post-Soviet Goldstein writes about it in her book, called period haven’t been stated in the OED yet. In «A Taste of Russia: a Cookbook of Russian this respect current guides to Russia provide Hospitality»: «The Russians eagerly adopted pioneer texts with culinary xenionyms. Most of – 116 – Ksenia A. Egorova. Culinary Russianisms in Guides to Russia innovative culinary xenonyms are so far at the The first part of the prototype (beef) has been stage of occasional xenonyms, not registered by anglicized, while the name of the Count has been lexicographers yet, thus not appearing so far in spelled in many different ways. Some researches such academic dictionaries like The OED. consider Beef Stroganov to be the Russian The other wide-spread means of xenonymic dish, but others argue about its French origin formation is calquing. Calquing is an indirect (supposedly from French bњuf stroganoff). In borrowing when the model of the lexical fact, “beef Stroganov is the one of not numerous prototype is either reproduced by means of Russian dishes that has become internationally native morphemes (in the case of lexical calques, known. There are different written variants of i.e. translation loans) or when an existing word this phrase: beef a la Stroganov, in Stroganov acquires a new meaning under the influence of the sauce, Stroganovsky. Nowadays the process of respective foreign word (in the case of semantic restoration is being observed, and L.Chamberlain calques, i.e. semantic loans). The example of prefers the variant of formal transliteration – lexical calques among the Russian culinary Beef Stroganov. Sometimes only the second xenonyms is the phrase “red/black caviar”. component is used” (Кабакчи, 2002, с.434). Another lexical calque “Swedish table”, being the The next type of hybrid xenonyms is calque from the Russian descriptive xenonymic the «okroshka soup» model. The xenonyms name «шведский стол», now is passing through consists of two parts: the borrowed original the phase of occasionalisms, though this term (which guarantees the convertibility) and the is quite frequent in descriptions of the Russian generic term (its hyperonym) attached to it to food rituals in many Russia’s travel guides: supply comprehensibility. This model has many «There’s no better place to indulge in shvedsky variations, for instance with the hyperonym stol (smorgasbord, or “Swedish table” in Russian) “soup”: shchi cabbage soup, okroshka cold soup, than at a place called Scandinavia (Russia & borsch beet soup. The phrases, like Olivier salad, Belarus, 2006, p.178). In our opinion, the English ossetra/asetra сaviar, are frequently used in the word “buffet” in the meaning of «a sideboard or texts of travel guides. In many texts the loan side-table extended to cover the refreshments “ossetrova” is considered to be the preferable set out on the sideboard, table, etc., and where variant while speaking about the sturgeon caviar: guests or customers are usually served standing» «caviar from the Russian sturgeon, hence also: (OED 2011:buffet) roughly corresponds to the the fish itself» (OED 2004: ossetrova). Russianism “Swedish table”. There are hybrid xenonyms in Russian- In the case of hybrid xenonyms (Kiev cutlet), Culture-Oriented English culinary vocabulary one component of the prototype is borrowed (Kiev) formed by the “Russian salad” model. As while the other component is translated (cutlet). everything that belongs to the Russian culture The borrowed part guarantees the intercultural and to the Russian cuisine in particular, can be convertibility of the xenonyms (the “guarantee described with the adjective “Russian” («Russian component”), while the translated component pancakes», «Russian soup», «Russian vodka» makes the phrase comprehensible for the reader and etc.), the model has a limited use. It is widely (tourist): “окрошка” =>okroshka soup. spread when speaking or writing about the unique Some culinary xenonyms should be elements of the Russian culture (for example, the discussed specially as they are hard to classify, Russian Museum). The OED lists the following the Russianism “Beef Stroganov” is one of them. phrases of this type: – 117 – Ksenia A. Egorova. Culinary Russianisms in Guides to Russia

Russian dinner n. a style of dinner in which the “Swedish table”. In our opinion, the notion fruit and wine are placed at the centre of a table «Russian dinner» meaning «a style of dinner in and courses are served from a sideboard; which fruit and wine are placed at the centre of Russian dressing n. a savoury dressing with a table and courses are served from a sideboard» a mayonnaise base. (OED 2011: Russian table) will mostly correspond Russian egg n. a poached or hard-boiled egg to this occasional xenonym. mixed with mayonnaise and freq. served with The fourth way of xenonym formation, lettuce or a salad. specific for Russian-Culture-Oriented English, Russian salad n. a salad consisting of is relating to descriptive names. The practice of diced cooked vegetables mixed with mayonnaise inter-cultural communication approves only short and vinegar, formerly also made with meat or descriptive names that do not make a sentence seafood. or the whole text cumbersome and difficult for Russian tea n. (a) tea grown in the Caucasus understanding. The typical examples of culinary or a drink made from this; (b) any tea laced with xenonymic descriptive names widely used in lemon or rum. RCO-English are: сabbage soup (usually referred Readers of the texts containing such culinary to «щи») <> open sandwich (бутерброд) <> terms might be confused by their meaning. Thus, meat- and cabbage-filled pies (pirozhki) <> salo, the hybrid xenonym “Russian salad” in the first thin slices of fat<> solyanka (meat and vegetable half of the last century usually referred to what soup) <> syrniki (cottage-cheese fritters). They the Russians call vinegret salad rather because are often accompanied by a loaned xenonym that was the most popular one, while in the itself. second half the traditional (especially for the New Substitution of an English analogue for a Year celebrations) dish was the “Olivier salad”. Russian xenonym inevitably leads to simplifying Sometimes the whole original name is borrowed the text. There are a number of xenonyms “salat olivye”. which partially coincide in their meaning on the Some western travel guides, such as inter-language level. These are inter-cultural the authoritative Rough guide, use even such analogues. By using analogues in the text is occasional xenonymic formation as the «Russian much easier to explain the meaning of a Russian table»: «Zakuski traditionally form the basis culinary term if you prepared for the partial of the famous Russkiy stol, or “Russian table”, loss of the information. That’s why analogues a feast of awesome proportions, in which the are widespread in the culinary descriptions: table groans under the weight of numerous “Ubiquitous are pelmeni: Russian-style ravioli dishes while the samovar steams away. (RGSPb, (generally stuffed with pork or beef) and served 2004, p.345). The Russians never call a side- either heaped on a plate with sour cream, vinegar board table with food and refreshments and the and butter, or in a stock soup” (Russia & Belarus, custom of serving guests standing “the Russian 2006, p.108); plov (A Central Asian rice pilaf) table”, because the tradition was borrowed by (Fodor’s Moscow and St. Petersburg, 1999, p.75); the Russians from Scandinavia. Therefore, the Сhai, as tea is known in numerous Eurasian descriptive xenonymic name «Swedish table» languages, is served black with lemon, sugar and is rather used by the native Russian speakers. cheese and biscuits. (ThCPG: Moscow, 2010, p. It is obvious that the term has been formed by 26); Hotels will serve an approximation of the the travel guide’s author due to the analogy with “Continental” breakfast, probably just a fried egg, – 118 – Ksenia A. Egorova. Culinary Russianisms in Guides to Russia bread, butter and jam; the flashier joints, however, new words by registering the most true-to-life and provide a Shvedskiy stol, or ‘Swedish table’, a sort productive models of word derivation. Therefore, of smorgasbord. (RGSPb, 2004, p.345). occasional “one-day” words and meanings have to find their own place in encyclopedic dictionaries Resume as well as in linguistic dictionaries, not talking Summing up, the xenonymic layer of lexis is about the special dictionaries of neologisms.” being constantly in the process of formation. The (Большой англо-русский словарь, 1979, с.10). selection of proper xenonymic variants requires The culinary topic is a specialized object of much time. The linguists should carefully Russia-Culture-Oriented English, where we investigate the occasional xenonyms, such as the can find such occasional and productive words “Russian table”, not throwing away any case of more frequently than in any other subject of use, even if the term seems to be very strange. In interlinguoculturology. We must underline fact we deal with the neologisms of the language. the fact that most of the culinary xenonymic The main lexicographical criterion the linguists Russianisms have an occasional structure and have to bear in mind is the stable use of a word usage. The author’s choice of a xenonymic variant in the language. It is said in the preface to the1st depends on his or her cultural background and edition of The Bolshoi Anglo-Russky Slovar’ by the depth of the Russian culture’s knowledge. It Prof. I.R.Galperin: “the dictionary should give an also depends of the travel guide’s style and the idea about the potential opportunities of forming individual peculiarities of the author’s writings.

References 1. Bolshoi Anglo-Russky Slovar’ (The English-Russian Dictionary) in 2 vol. (Moscow: Russky yazyk,1979). 2. D.Goldstein, A Taste of Russia: a Cookbook of Russian Hospitality (Montpelier: Russian Information Services, inc., 1999). 3. D. Richardson, The Rough Guide to Saint-Petersburg (London: Rough Guides Ltd., 2004). 4. Fodor’s Moscow and St.Petersburg, (New York: Fodor’s Travel Publications, 1999). 5. I.Aidukovich, About the scientific project “Russianisms in South Slavic and Western Slavic languages according to the qualificators in lexicographical resources of Russian sociolinguistics. The 1st International Congress of the Russian language researchers: “The Russian language – historical heritage and the present”. The collection of theses (Moscow, 2001), in Russian. 6. О.А. Leontovich, Russkiye i Amerikantsy: paradoksy mezhkul’turnogo obscheniya (The Russians and The Americans: the paradoxes of inter-cultural communication) (Moscow: Gnozis, 2005), in Russian. 7. Russia & Belarus (London: Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd., 2006). 8. The Oxford English Dictionary, 3rd edition, online version December 2011 accessed from http://www.oed.com/. 9. Thomas Cook pocket guides: Moscow (London: Thomas Cook Publishing, 2010). 10. V.V.Kabakchi, Osnovy angloyazychnoi mezhkul’turnoi kommunikatsii (Fundamentals of English Intercultural Communication) (St Petersburg: RGPU, 1998), in Russian. 11. V.V. Kabakchi, The Dictionary of Russia (2500 cultural terms). English-English Dictionary of Russian cultural terminology. (St Petersburg: Publishing House “Soyuz”, 2002). – 119 – Ksenia A. Egorova. Culinary Russianisms in Guides to Russia

12. V.V.Kabakchi, Angloyazychnoe opisanie russkoi kul’tury. Russian Culture Through English (Moscow: Akademiya, 2009), in Russian.

Abbreviations: OED – Oxford English Dictionary RGSPb- The Rough Guide to Saint-Petersburg ThCPG – Thomas Cook Pocket Guides

Кулинарные русизмы в англоязычных путеводителях по России

К.A. Егорова Псковский государственный университет Россия, 180000, Псков, пл. Ленина, 2

Данная статья посвящена ксенонимам-русизмам, изучением которых занимается интерлингвокультурология, сравнительно молодая лингвистическая дисциплина, исследующая вопросы вторичной культурной ориентации языка. В статье рассматривается русская кулинарная ксенонимическая лексика, встречающаяся в современных аутентичных англоязычных путеводителях по России. Ключевые слова: интерлингвокультурология, аутентичный текст, вторичная культурная ориентация языка, английский язык межкультурного общения, ориентированный в область русской культуры (АЯМО (РК)), кулинарные ксенонимы-русизмы, заимствование ксенонимическое, кальки лексические и семантические, ксенонимические межкультурные аналоги, гибридные ксенонимы, описательные обороты. Научная специальность: 10.00.00 – филологические науки.