Berens River by Beth Bellaire, Photos by Beth and Bruce Bellaire
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Summer 2007 Vol. 34 No.2 Quarterly Journal of the Wilderness Canoe Association Sandhill Cranes Berens River by Beth Bellaire, Photos by Beth and Bruce Bellaire August 21 - September 1, 2006 - 160 km a Grandmaster's team - a euphemism for over 50 and crazy enough to still think we can compete!) That meant a later than s we all know, one of the best ways to deal with the usual August trip of only two weeks duration. A February blues is to start planning the next year's canoe What better solution than to complete the third river in our trip. The winter of 2005 was no exception, other than that we trilogy of the Bloodvein, the Pigeon, and the Berens. According had a few more constraints upon our travels than usual. Dave to Hap Wilson, these three rivers are all in the region known as and Barb Young and Bruce and I have been paddling buddies the country of the caribou or "Atikaki." The Government of for many years now. Dave and Barb both have jobs that allow Manitoba also designates them all as wilderness parks, so we them more freedom in choosing holiday time, so it's Bruce and I knew we would be guaranteed a truly isolated adventure. In his who tend to set the terms for travel. This past summer, we not guide book, WildeRNeSS RiVerS of ManitOba, he rates all three of only had the limitation of just two weeks in a row; we also had these river trips as two weeks or less in duration, with water to fit that two weeks into the summer before Labour Day's re- levels remaining high enough to be navigable throughout the turn to reality but after the World Club Crew Championship summer season. The only drawback to the Berens was that he Dragon Boat Festival (since both Bruce and I were paddling for noted it as having fewer rapids, yet still enough, we hoped, to Berens River route keep the adventurous spirit satisfied. ing the food for the river trip, Barb was a departure time of 9 a.m. on Monday, Having already thoroughly enjoyed the on for the driving fare. Knowing that it August 21. This meant an early morning scenery of the Bloodvein, in 1999 and will be the last tomato for a while makes drive through deer country to Matheson the Pigeon in 2001, we were eager for a it taste that much sweeter, so lunches Island, but with three passengers watch- return engagement to this most beautiful were savoured by all. ing the woods, those deer were so of river landscapes. The only excitement of the drive was spooked that only one dared to show its the close call we had with the tornadoes tail, although we saw at least two cars Getting There: August 18 - 20 that reached Winnipeg from the west just that had obviously had unfortunate So it was that Friday, August 18th, found about the same time as we reached it closer encounters. Our morning driver Bruce and me in Dave and Barb's base- from the east. Seeing very scary skies seemed very eager to reach our destina- ment in Brampton, doing the traditional ahead, we turned off our story to hear tion, driving at what some might think pre-trip-sort-out-the-gear event, accom- that we were in the midst of a tornado of as break-neck speed along those gravel panied by a beer or two. After last watch! I envisioned a variation on roads. A couple of us did mention that minute packing of final food stuff (one Dorothy's spin in the Wizard of Oz: just we had plenty of time, but it was only shouldn't decant wine into plastic until imagine the uplift provided by two ca- after the driver realized that the van the last possible moment), we were early noes tied to the roof of a Sienna. Luckily, clock was still on Ontario time that be- to bed, anxious for a quick start to the I was driving this leg, so I treated the rest lief and relief slower speeds set it. two-day drive ahead. to a ring-road tour of Winnipeg, thereby As expected, as soon as we slowed to It seems we have this tripping down making sure that we missed potential a stop at the ferry dock, the ferry set out to a science by times. The drive out to devastation from the trailing winds of the from the opposite shore to pick us up. Matheson Island with overnight stops in storm. Some people thought it was a What a great service this is! The ferry Terrace Bay, at the Red Dog Inn, and in wrong turn, but I'd like to remember it ride is so short: there is not even enough Gimli, at the Viking, was smooth sailing. differently time to get out of the car before getting It is a lot of driving to make this distance back in. from Brampton to Gimli in two days, but The Fly-in: August 21 Then it was a few hundred meters to with four drivers, entertaining books-on- For our previous two trips to this region, the loading dock A spit of rain did not tape, and the beautiful scenery of we had booked flights with Wamair, hav- dampen our spirits, but the lack of action Superior, the time passed pleasantly ing been very pleased with their service; soon began to. There was no sign of any enough. Since it was my year for prepar- so again, we had arranged with them for pilot: in fact, there wasn't even a plane. 2 NASTAWGAN SUMMER 2007 But this was where we'd taken off before, looked, from the maps at least, to pres- found it had completely dried up and ex- so we waited a little longer, getting a little ent more challenging terrain than the be- posed some engraving in a rock face: wetter and more worried as the minutes ginning or end might. Of course, experi- AMKAY 1897. ticked by enced paddlers know that wind and We paddled off, wondering who this Now it was getting close to our 9 o'- weather can make mush of even the best person was, and what adventures had clock rendezvous, and still no Wamair. thought-out plan, so we always build in befallen him, and feeling privileged to Then, with a little verbal sleuthing, it be- a little wriggle room. have seen his careful handiwork. As well, came apparent that perhaps the question, On this trip, such back-up thought we finally realized that rather than sup- "Youknow where to come for the plane?" proved mostly unnecessary At Big Moose porting a variant breed of beavers who should have been answered with, "Is it the Falls, near some great pictographs, a constructed giant homes, the Berens was same place as five years ago?" instead of a place where we felt the presence of the just so low that beaver homes were much simple, "Yup." While the women waited ancient ones, we gave our untraditional more exposed than usual. with the gear, the men took a drive to the offering of whiskey to the river gods. Everyday went like clockwork. Most main airport and found our plane and This seemed to appease them, for after days, we were up between 6 and 6:30 pilot there, wondering where we were. So that, the winds were mostly at our backs, a.m. Depending upon the temperature hurry up! Toss the gear back in the car and and we had no major mishaps other than and the mood, our breakfasts were usu- race to the plane, only to realize that more a couple of skinned elbows, a thorn in a ally quick granola or slower porridge, waiting was in order. The winds left over nose, and a camera that met a rock much both served with dried fruits (blueberries from the tornadoes of yesterday were still too quickly were hands-down favourite, cherries sec- creating unsafe conditions, at least for a Distances traveled each day varied ond, and raisins a disappointing last). On float plane carrying two canoes on its pon- from a low of 11 to a high of 20, with days when we were drying out or just toons (variation #2 of Dorothy's flight). most days averaging an easy 17 km. taking it easy, Dave would treat us to his Given a potential delay of several Although the Berens was still navigable famous pancake feast. Then, we'd be hours, we whiled away our time explor- as promised, the water levels were very very slow getting going. Even though the ing the small community that calls this low. The impact of this was felt most pancakes themselves were light as air, we island home, seeing more deer, as well as when maneuvering rapids. Often what somehow all became much heavier and our first magpies and pelicans of the trip. was designated a Class II with volume slower to motion, and we'd remind our- At one point, we were invited in out of presented to us as a ledge. We ended up selves: "We were on holidays after all!" the rain by a young family who were in substituting liftovers or lining in place of Lunches consisted of the peanut-but- the midst of major renovations, creating fun runs for several such rapids. ter-and-jam-on-bagels staple with the oc- a magnificent home, complete with Although disappointing, at times these casional slice of cheese or pepperoni for greenhouses for organic produce, a roof- low levels did offer a silver lining.