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JOURNEY an Odyssey to Reclaim Tradition and Territory

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JOURNEY an Odyssey to Reclaim Tradition and Territory THE TRIBAL CANOE JOURNEY An odyssey to reclaim tradition and territory STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY JULIAN BRAVE NOISECAT A traditional Indigenous glwa, an oceangoing canoe, departs Stz’uminus First Nation waters in British Columbia en route to Snuneymuxw First Nation territory during the 2017 Tribal Canoe Journey. 42 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC 43 TRIBAL CANOE JOURNEY Port Simpson July 16 Tribal Journeys 2017 Northern B.C. and northern Vancouver Island Inside Passage (Puget Sound) Outside coast Washington state B.C. Lower Mainland West coast Vancouver Island Southern Vancouver Island and San Juan Overnight stop BRITISH COLUMBIA CAMPBELL RIVER Kyuquot August 5 July 14 Nanoose Bay July 31 Pacific Vancouver Lummi Tsawout July 23 Ocean July 26 Victoria Swinomish July 21 WASHINGTON 0 150 km Seattle Squaxin Quinault Island July 18 July 17 Y ALARM SOUNDS at chronic back pain. Marijuana, legal in I GET SOME OF my best material from the Quinault, this territory is, and always pausing to let the weight of this little- Wei Wai Kum council members (opposite) 3:45 a.m. — so early it Washington, stokes his imagination and trip on the Quinault reservation that morn- has been, jurisdiction of the Quinault known history sink in — two cannon- welcome journey participants in Campbell might be considered soothes his pain. ing of July 18. As the lone Quinault canoe Indian Nation. balls fired at his ancestors on this very River, B.C. K’ómoks dancers perform for night. There’s only one “We are going to be late!” I tell him. prepares to set out to sea just below Point “The next morning, [the Spanish] came beach. “Ain’t that something?” the canoeists near Courtenay, B.C. (above). bedM in my dad’s rental cottage in Shelton, By the time we leave at 4:15 a.m., I am Grenville, I listen to Harold Curley, an elder in and they went off chopping wood to fix As I took in Curley’s remarkable Wash., so when I visit, we choose sides. I thoroughly exasperated. and direct descendant of legendary Chief a broken mast,” he continues. story — in which the Spaniards failed wandered the Earth looking for food, roll over, smacking him with my forearm, I am wrong. We barrel down backwoods Taholah, who signed the 1855 Quinault “So, they sent in a johnboat, and the and his family passed on cannonballs treasure and love, propelling change and waking him, too. highways, pulling up to the Quinault Treaty establishing this reservation. narrator [a crewmember who logged the that missed their targets like souvenirs, finding trouble, they made our planet I have work to do. At 6 a.m., the launch point with time to spare. “Did you hear the story of the day’s events] on that ship (there were I saw my dad out of the corner of my eye, into what it is today. Quinault Nation’s oceangoing canoe is For two years running, the canoe jour- Spaniards coming out here in a great big about two or three narrators in each ship) standing proud — and a little stoned. These stories are mostly characterized setting out to sea on the Tribal Canoe ney has brought my father and me battle ship?” he asks, looking out to sea. said that there was 300 savages as legends or fables — thereby Journey, an annual trans-national together, reminding us of who and how we In 1775, the Spanish Empire sent a came out of the woods and came The canoe journey has infantilizing them. But I think Indigenous voyage and gathering in the love, and what it means to be Indigenous two-ship expedition from Mexico cap- on them and then [the Spanish] they are better understood as Pacific Northwest. Of 87 participating men. For the last two years, we’ve joined tained by Basque explorer Bruno de tried to chase them away by shoot- brought my father and metaphors, offering poetic theses canoes, the Quinault were scheduled to the Squaxin Island Canoe Family on this Heceta to claim the Pacific Northwest ing the cannons and everything, about who changes society and voyage farthest, and I want to cover their remarkable voyage. Squaxin Island is just over British, Russian and French rivals. and they just seen their seven me together, reminding the planet, and how. In a world departure. Their reservation is two one of dozens of communities that partici- The Spanish came ashore at this beach in men lost.” shaped by Hollywood narratives hours’ drive west of my dad’s place on pate in the canoe journey. Every year since Quinault territory on July 12 that year — a The Spanish named the point at us of what it means to (the Rebels blow up the Death the Olympic Peninsula, so we need to 1993, canoe families have departed from summer day just like this one — becom- the end of the beach “Punta de los Star, the Avengers save the get on the road. home waters throughout the Pacific ing the first Europeans to set foot in what Martires” (Point of the Martyrs), be Indigenous men. world), trickster stories offer I haven’t communicated my early Northwest on a collective odyssey to is now Washington state. after their fallen compatriots. explanations that are compli- departure imperative to my father clearly reclaim tradition and territory. “What happened is they came here, and Bruno de Heceta never again vis- cated, ambiguous and often enough. As I hop into my jeans, he This year, our journey had begun on July there was nine Indians who was up there ited Quinault territory. MY FATHER’S FRIEND Frank Brown ironic. Change happens through actions ambles into the kitchen to put on a pot of 17 at Arcadia Point, Wash. — traditional cooking crabs and clams,” he explains, “I have two cannonballs at home from Bella Bella is a trickster, of sorts. intentional and coincidental, clever and coffee, then into the bathroom to lather territory of the Squaxin Island Tribe — and gesturing at Point Grenville. “They invited from that johnboat,” says Curley, According to ancient oral histories of lucky, noble and cunning. Change- his face and shave his stubble. While I ends dozens of days and hundreds of kilo- [the Spanish] in, but they didn’t want to eat. the Pacific Northwest, the world was makers stand at the edge of one world, march out to the car, my ears catch the metres later in the waters of the Wei Wai Instead, they went over here and planted a Julian Brave NoiseCat is a member of the born from curiosity and mischief. Raven forming the next from whatever is at familiar flick of the lighter followed by a Kum First Nation in Campbell River, B.C. cross in the name of King Carlos III.” Canim Lake Band Tsq’escen in British stole the sun, moon, stars and water hand — especially pilfered materials. deep inhale as dad sparks a one-hitter. For the two of us, honoured to be welcomed According to the Spanish, Quinault Columbia. His writing regularly appears in The from Creator. Coyote’s schemes turned While Brown and my father were My dad is an artist — carver, sculptor, by our Squaxin Island relatives, these jour- territory was now part of Mexico and the Guardian and numerous other media outlets. the land and coyote himself from super- young bucks running the streets of AP: CHRIS BRACKLEY/CAN GEO printmaker, magician — suffering from neys are both personal and political. Kingdom of Spain. According to the M natural to worldly. As these tricksters Vancouver, Brown organized the first 44 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2017 CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC 45 TRIBAL CANOE JOURNEY Wei Wai Kum dancers perform the holy Hamatsa for journey guests (opposite). Elder Harold Curley (far right) and other Quinault tribal members form a prayer circle near Point Grenville, Wash. (left). Both of my father’s parents were sent to residential schools. He was born in a resi- dential school hospital and spent his child- hood bouncing from one home to the next. He has lived a life of intergenerational trauma, struggling to be a father. His absence from my childhood left me — the next generation — with an enduring wound where a parent should have been. Yet despite persistent efforts to stamp out Indigenous cultures and communi- ties — to make my grandparents and my father forget who they are — today, Indigenous people such as me are born symbolic canoe journey as part of Expo 86, Year of the World’s Indigenous People. annihilation that bent his body and spirit criss-cross the Northwest, extending seascape that connects ocean to continent into a world where the beauty and power the world’s fair in Vancouver that coin- The gathering, thereafter known as the into permanent defensive pride, has a north and south, to the inland and out and past to future. of who we are is embraced. In the Pacific cided with the city’s centennial. In 1984, Tribal Canoe Journey, has been held warrior’s heart. He is 5'10", but in these onto the sea, like the warp and weft of the “This canoe movement is the most sig- Northwest, the canoe is central to this Brown, a college student working at the every year since. moments, even as his 57-year-old frame traditional cedar bark hats the pullers nificant gathering of Indigenous Peoples resurgence. It brings communities Vancouver Aboriginal Friendship Centre, “The people of the coast have fades, his presence is much taller. wear on the water. It takes days and even in the Americas today,” says Brown. together to paddle ancestral waterways.
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