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THomeme cimepno•sanaAHaa On the

Ambitious

Projects

Of Russia INTRODUCTION BY GEORGE P. HAMMOND OTHOIDC'Hie CCBC' pno-aan:lAHaR 'laCTb aMPpica OTRomeaie ceni M: C. t:: >I:: ::c., .:;: \0 Q r: 0 183 0 :,, <,! 0 C: <:.> C. On the A mbitious 'Projects c:., ..~ ..."' '- Of 1t1usia jn 1l,.egard % c:! ti: o! :,: H: c:! t:: Worth CWest A mericay mith c:! ';' 0 :,: C. .,c:., 1:Particular 1teference % c:., ..,0 1 :,: 1 sQ.l 0 Wem ~ lbion 8' Wem California Ill E-< 0

·-'-' '-' ~ 13y A n f:.nglishnurn 0 E-< :,: C. 0 C. t:: ,i::: .,::c IOe ~ 0 :,, o! '-' Ca~IOJII06H n blfi n p OCKT p occi II Ca ~IOJII06HB blfi rrp oe1c T p occ i II.TI THE BOOK CLUB OF CALIFORNIA 1955 1830

An Appeal to

The Government

The Legislature I

And the People

Of Great Britain I

I 19 5 5 jntrod11ct ion

poccin 6qs \ ·. \'- \ -- t 1n..---- This little volume, On the Ambitious Projects of ' 1;-• \ ....._ ·""7.,, I Russia in Regard to North West America, with particular reference to New Albion and New California, was written ~\-··- .;. t-:~ \ I I i by "an Englishman" and published by Frederic Shoberl of \ . -~ - _;.1 London in 1830. His purpose was to rouse the English nation ·- . I - . ~ 1 '\ . I • to a realization of the importance of the Northwest coast of ... I .} I America, which had been for so long beyond the realm of ; I I ~ .,.,I'I -----+----- . human knowledge, but which, it was then clear, was in danger of Russian conquest and settlement. In this message to the English people, "Our Englishman" described the land from such sources as were available - he himself had never been there - especially from two volumes of travel in the Pacific that had been published in London in an English edition that very year. These were the work of Otto von Kotzebue, the Russian navigator and scientist, and these he used to fullest advantage, quoting freely from them throughout and otherwise using their evidence for his own purpose. Kotzebue's work bore the title, A New Voyage round

;aI·, -.i-. I

I %...,= "'s _..L. L -: 6 the Jfmbitimu Spain relied on this principle to the end of her lished by Henry Colburn and Richard Bentley. It had been empire. England, a late starter in the race for colonies, re­ issued in a German edition, at Weimar, likewise in 1830, fused to be bound by this ancient political theory and held that under the title Neue Reise um die Welt, in denJahren 1823, effective occupation gave possession. Our Englishman voiced 24, 25 und 26. this contention in his plea that England seize Northwest From Kotzebue 's volumes, and from other sources ofPacific America before Russia could get too firm a foothold. exploration, the writer had good proof of Russia's extension The Pacific Ocean, it will be recalled, had been !mown to of fur- trading activities into the North Pacific and of the the Spaniards since Balboa's crossing of the Isthmus of Pan­ establishment ofposts on the western coast of North Arnerica, ama in 1513. But it was not till nearly three centuries later as far as Fort Ross, just above San Francisco Bay. He feared that the nati01is of the world came to grips in full -scale this e.'(,pansion was but a prelude to Russian seizure of the en­ competition for the lands bordering on its waters. Till then, tire Pacific Coast. To warn his countryrnen against this dan­ Spain had enjoyed the rights of a first-comer to this great ger and to rouse thern to a realization of how valuable these ocean. Her colonies extended from Chile up the coast of Sou th lands would be to England, he wrote the book here reissued. and Central America to Mexico, without interruption - and The clirnate of world opinion in the early 18th century was without any serious challenge. Since there was no opposition irnperialistic to the core. There was no hesitancy in taking on to her authority in these lands she had almost no fortifications, the "white rnan 's burden, "i.e.,of seizing by conquest or other­ and these but lightly defended. Lower California, indeed, had wise, the undeveloped or backward parts of the globe. Russia, a fort or two near the tip of the peninsula, and Upper Cali­ England - all the European nations accepted this point of fornia none at all; i.e., not till 1769, when Spain established view. In this book, the author merely expressed the general a few weak outposts in that remote corner of her empire. political situation. If England, as he hoped, by alertness and The first of these posts were the mission and presidia of action, could forestall Russia and seize the Northwest Coast San Diego, and others were soon established as far north, I ofAmerica, England would profit, and the result would be ac­ ultimately, as Monterey, San Francisco, San Rafael, and cepted. The great game ofpolitics was understood everywhere. Solano. The presidios were manned by only a handful of In a sense, there had been no change in this reasoning since soldiers, poorly equipped and badly paid. The missions were Spain planted her banners in America under Colurnbus, Cor­ cared for by one or two devoted friars at each site who sought tes, and Pizarro. The right of discovery c01~ferred ownership to convert and civilize the lowly gentiles. Both friars and B the Ambitious ~rojects of 1tussia jntrod11ction bJJ George ~ammond 9 caMOJ1106nahl:li npoeKT poccirr ca~IOJII06HBhI:li npoeRT pocciHJI OTHomeHie ccnepno-aana~HaR 'l!l.CTb aMcpica oTnomeHie a nai soldiers realized, from the scanty support they received, and of Captain James Cook, who made three voyages to explore the lack of contact with the outside world, that they were at its mysteries. In 1768, he started a three-year scientific expe­ the very limit of Spain's imperial bounds. They served their dition that took him into the South Pacific; in 1772 he sought God and King with zeal, however, irrespective of their lonely a great southern continent and exploded that myth; in 1776, vigil, until the intrusion offoreigners foretold the end oftheir he sailed again, seeking to verify the age-old belief in a water life among California's neophytes. passage around or through North America, called by the Not mauy foreigners visited California's shores in the mis­ Spaniards the Strait ofAnian and by the English the North­ sion period. Most of those who did were merchants who came west Passage. The purpose of his voyage was thus clothed in to seek new markets, or scientists who sought to extend the scientific garb, but he carried secret instructions to take pos­ frontiers ofman's knowledge ofhis universe. These frequented session for England of lands not hitherto occupied by other the Pacific Coast from the 1780's onward, but they had been powers. foreshadowed by the 16th century English sea-dog, or pirate, Cook's voyage into the North Pacific had terrijfic results. Francis Drake, the later Sir Francis Drake. As one of Queen He discovered and made known to the world the wealth in Elizabeth's most noted seamen, he sailed on a great adventure furs of the Northwest Coast - furs that sold in China for a in 1577, reached home in 1580 after a voyage that took him small fortune, but had cost only a few baubles in America - around South America, up the coast to Drake's Bay above and he had discovered the Sandwich or Hawaiian Islands San Francisco, where he careened his ship and took possession which the sailors found a pleasant diversion for the winter, of the land as New Albion. Skirting the Northwest Coast, he after the long voyage to the north. It was in these Islands that sailed for the tropics and the Cape of Good Hope - his vessel's Captain Cook was killed in 1779. hold full of Spanish treasure. At the very moment of Cook's voyage, the Spanish govern­ Drake had followers, in the coming centuries, who disa­ ment had received disturbing reports through diplomatic bused Spain of the notion that the Pacific was a Spanish lake channels ofRussian aggression in the North Pacific and had that could be held without a contest. Such men as Lord George taken steps to start an investigation. In 1774, it sent Juan Anson, who captured a Spanish galleon with its secret sailing Perez, one of its ablest navigators in Mexico, to verify them. chart in 1742, put renewed fear into the Spanish King that Perez sailed north to 55°, but on account of bad weather,for his Pacific possessions were not secure. which this coast is notorious, was unable to make effective Much more dangerous was the appearance in the Pacific observations. ' 10 the Ambitimts ':Projects of 1tussia '!Introduction bJJ George Uammond 11 caMoJI10611a hlil: npoeKT pocci II caMomo611Bhlil: rrpoeKT pocci1110 OTHOT11CHie CCBCpHo-aarranuaa •raCTb 11,MCpica OTHOTl1eHiE' ccni The nextyear another expedition sailed northward, hoping what was going on. Spain apparently would not object to to reach 65°. It was under the command of Bruno de Heceta Russian posts in the far north, but did oppose their extension and Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Cuadra. After some time southward. Martinez learned not only about Russian activi­ the ships got separated and did not nzeet till their return to ties, but was surprised to discover the operations ofthe English California. Heceta had reached 49° and discovered the nwuth traders. The aroused Spanish government at once sent Mar­ ofthe Columbia River. Bodega meanwhile got as far north as tznez back, in 1789, to occupy Nootlw on Vancouver Island in 58°, landed twice to take possession, and tlzen headed back to order to forestall its falling into the hands of the English. At Monterey with his scurvy-ridden crew. These voyages, though Nootka hefound several English vessels, seized them, and sent eminently successful, had found no trace ofRussians or other them and their officers and crews to Mexico as prisoners. foreigners, and had reasserted Spain's ownership by new acts Martinez's act in seizing the British very nearly brought ofpossession and by thorough exploration of the coast. on war with Spain. In England, public opinion was inflamed These voyages of 1774 and 1775 ended Spain's northern by the news and war threatened. Spain at first was determ­ explorations at the very nwment that, unknown to Spain, ined to stand her ground, but then came the outbreak of the Captain Cook was getting ready to explore the sanze region. French Revolution in the summer of 1789, and Spain as a And while Spain did send out a fruitless expedition in 1779, consequence could not count on the aid of her ally, France. I which confirmed the observations ofPerez and Bodega, orders The upshot was a period ofnegotiation, ending with the Noot­ I soon canze to discontinue these voyages in the future, since the ka Sound Convention. Captain George Vancouver represented rumors offoreigners there were clearly unfounded. England, making numerous explorations in the course of his On the heels of Captain Cook's voyage of 1779, traders of mission. By the final agreement, Spain gave up her claim to several nations descended on the Northwest Coast as soon as exclusive right to the land north of 42°, leaving these to the news of his rich discovery became known. Captain James whichever nation should settle there first. Hanna, an Englishman, came there in 1785, as did the The Nootka Controversy overshadowed everything else for I French scientist La Perouse. In 1786, there were at least three a time and obscured what the Russians had been doingfar­ expeditions, several more in 1787, and thereafter too many to ther north, along the shores of Kamchatka, the Bering Sea, notice lzere. In 1788, the Spaniards, having heard more of and the Northwest Coast of America. Here a drama unfolds Russian aggression on the coast from La Perouse's accounts, that had been in the making for centuries, a drama that sent out an expedition under Estevan Jose Martinez to learn concerns the Cossacks, the pioneers who pushed Russia's I

I

I

12 the Ambitiozu ':Projects of 'kzusia ~ntroduction bg George ;Jfammon~ 1~ caMOJII0611Bhl:il: rrpoeRT poccin caMOJI106nBhl.tt npoeRT pocci:nJI OTHO IIIeH ie CCBC ])H 0-3 anart:HRJI '-!RC Tb aMep1ca OT 110 men IC anal fronners out of central Europe several thousand miles across Kamchatka the nextyear, clad in furs as a substitute for their Siberia into Asia. This "westward" movement, in reverse, ragged clothing. These pelts made the expedition famous,for was not unlike the movement that carried American frontiers­ they were of the sea otter, and this discovery provided the im­ men from the Atlantic to the Pacific in the United States in pulse for continued Russian discoveries. Here was the stuff the 19th century. that merchants wanted as much as gold itself Russia's pioneers did not reach Kamchatka, the great pe­ For twenty-five years after Bering's death, only private ninsula that borders the Bering Sea, untill 1706. Peering out Russian adventurers engaged in these Arctic expeditions. over those murky waters toward the east, these Russian Then, in 1766, the government launched a bigger venture conquerors observed evidences of land. Strange trees drifted headed by a pair of sailors called Krenitsyn and Levashov. ashore, and the natives told stories of another continent that Their expediti,on suffered severely, and though it never reach­ seemed rich and fascinating. Contrasted with Siberia's bleak ed the coast ofNorth America, it explored much of the Aleuti­ shores, Alaska's might well have looked better. The govern­ ans before giving up in the face of extreme hardships and ment, under Peter the Great's leadership, sent out expeditions, suffering. Accounts of the expedition, and of various private some to the south to explore the Kuriles, and laid plans to ventures as well, were published in Russia and were appar­ learn whether Asia and America joined, and to explore the ently reported by the Spanish ambassadors to their government r new coasts. in Madrid. Indeed, they may have been the substance of the Before the death of Peter the Great in 1725, Vitus Bering, rumors that were sent to Viceroy Bucareli in Mexico regarding a great navigator, had been chosen to lead these explorations. Russia's threat to Spain's claims in the Pacific. On the basis After making his way across Russian Siberia, he sailed, in of these reports, the viceroy gave greater support to the Cali­ 1728, through Bering Strait, named after him. On his return, fornia missions, which had just been founded by his prede­ the bold sailor recommended further expeditions of discovery, cessor in 1769. which were approved but required several years of prepara­ As the Russian fur hunters expanded their activities in the tion, and then, with an associate named Chirikov, in two north, they depleted the supply of the sea otter and forced an ships, he sailed again. Chirikov discovered the coast ofNorth extension of the search for the animals. This situation led to America near 55°, but encountered extreme hardships on the the organization ofa company by Grigorii Shelekhov and the return voyage. To escape starvation, the e:xpedition wintered founding ofa post on Kodiak Island in 1784. Kodiak is nestled on Bering Is land where the leader died. The survivors reached in the great arm of the Pacific which stretches from Alaska 0 14 the AmbitiOlts ':Projects of 'Jtussia

various Yankee captains of California's wealth in wheat and R ezanov found the atmosphere congenial. H e talked little of I corn. The opportunity for a voyage to California came after his real need - food supplies for his hunters in A Laska - but Rezanov reached the North Pacific on an inspection tour for there was much small talk, visiting the missions and govern­ the Russian American Company in 1805. His first move was ment officials, getting acquainted, and learning about the to purchase the American ship Juno with its entire cargo resources of the province. from Captain Wolfe, who had wrne to Sitka at this opportune The governor, Don Jose Arrillaga, was in Monterey at the moment, and then to set out in person on the little vessel with time of R ezanov's arrival, but soon came to San Francisco to a scurvy-stricken crew for California to seek a more certain entertain the distinguished visitors. Commandant Arguello, food supp!,y. in addition to his son Luis, had a daughter,Dona Concepcion, The story of R ezanov's adventures on this trip is one of the or Concha, then about sixteen and acknowledged to be the highlights of early California history. Would the Spaniards beauty of the province. If the rare visit of these distinguished permit him to enter San Francisco Bay? He well knew that foreigners stirred the beating of her heart a bit, it soon ap­ Spanish law forbade such entries, but he had to take a chance. peared that the head of the Russian party, R ezanov himself,

_, 16 the Jfmbitimu 1lrojects of 'kllssia 'Jntrodllction bJJ George 1fammond 17 caMOJII06nBhlli rrpoeKT pocciH ca~t0JII061IBhlli rrpoeKT pocciJ;iJI 0TH o meH ie cc ne pH0-3 arr an Hall

Siberia early in 1807. His constancy was therefore not put to "Lives she yet?" A death-like silence fell on banquet, guests, and hall, the test, and we do not know how he really felt toward Dona And a trembling figure rising fixed the awe-struck gaze of all. Concepcion. But ofhow she felt toward him, there is no doubt. She waited, and when he did not return, took the veil ofa nun. Two black eyes in darkened orbits gleamed beneath the nun's white hood; According to report, it was not until 1842, on the occasion of Black serge hid the wasted figure, bowed and stricken where it stood. the visit ofSir George Simpson to California, that she learned the facts. The story is beautifully told in the lines of Bret "Lives she yet?" Sir George repeated. All were hushed as Concha drew Harte's poem, "Dona Concepcion Argiiello": Closer yet her nun's attire. "Senor, pardon, she died too!" 1s the Ambitimts ':Projects of ft11ssia 'Jntrod11ction bJJ George Uammond 19 !O caMOJI!06IIB 1,1:1! npOCI(T po cci II caMOJI 6 IIB blll: II pOCET p occiino OTHOmeuie CCBC' pH0-311, II!L/111 air 'l 11,CTI, 11,MC'pi ca OTHO!II('II iC' cc Bi Rezanov 's goal was evidently not merely to establish a post this port was the real objective ofKotzebue, if he was "a secret in California, but to use it as a base for acquiring all of agent of the leader of Russian imperialism," as has been Spanish California. Near Bodega Bay, the Russians found maintained. If so, Kotzebue learned the true facts of Spain's a suitable site, and there they established Fort Ross in 1812. weakness in California, and published the details in a report Baranov, the head of the Russian Arnerican Company in of the expedition in 1821, entitled Entdeckungs-reise in die Alaska, was the promoter of this venture, which had for its Sud-see und nach Berings-strasse ... in den Jahren 1815, ultimate goal much greater horizons. "ltmust be mentioned," 1816, 1817 und 1818 ... , Weimar, 1821, which appeared states a recent writer, "that from the very beginning of their in English in the same year. efforts Baranov and his agents had been acting with the en­ Kotzebue's second voyage of exploration and scientific in­ couragement of their government, if not on orders received vestigation began in 1823 and lastedfouryears. In October, from St. Petersburg."* At Fort Ross, the Russians carried 1824 (September, Russian style), he reached San Francisco on trade and hunted sea otter, undisturbed by the Spaniards, Bay with his two vessels and remained two months, in the who were too weak to resist. When the viceroy of Mexico did course of which he made three expeditions, in addition to instruct the governor of California to warn the Russians visiting the Spaniards of the presidio and mission of San that their settlement was a violation oftreaty rights, nothing Francisco. The trips took him to Santa Clara and San Jose; happened, and they remained in undisturbed possession until to Fort Ross by way of Mission San Rafael ( which Kotzebue it became unprofitable to maintain the distant post. mistakenly called San Gabriel); and to the Sacramento and Soon after the founding of Fort Ross, a Russian scientific San Joaquin rivers in the interior. Kotzebue was enthusiastic expedition visited San Francisco and spent the month of Oc­ in his admiration of the riches and charms of the country, tober, 1816, there. This party was in command of Otto von and of its prospects for the future. Each part he visited gave Kotzebue and had for its ostensible object the exploration of cause for wonder and comment, contrasting strongly with the certain parts of the South Seas and the discovery ofa passage bleakness of the Russian territories. from the North Pacific to the Atlantic. The expedition succeed­ While Kotzebue admired the land, he had nothing but criti­ ed in its South Sea purpose, but made only a cursory explor­ cism for the Spanish and their institutions. He condemned ation of the North Pacific. The visit to San Francisco was nwre the mission system, characterized the people as indolent and enjoyable than Arctic exploration, and perhaps a sojourn in ignorant, and described the converts as helplessly enchained

•August C. Mahr, "The Visit of tlu 'Rurik' lo San Francisco in 1816," Vol. II, in the missions by superior force. Needless to say, this picture p. 22, Stanford University Publications, University Series, 1932. 20 the Ambitiolis ':Projects of ~ltssia 'Jntrod1tction by George 1-fammond 21 caMOJIJ06HBb1tt npoeKT pocci:0 caMoJI106:0Bhltt npoeKT pocciHJI OTHomeHie cc Bepuo-3anagHu.n

1830 On e:ftie A mbitious

':Prolegom enon j)rojects of '1?,.lusia

aMepicanae :u1epica pocci11

WHOEVER is conversant with history, and has paid the least attention to the course of recent political IT is to Captain Otto von Kotzebue, of the events, must have remarked the steady march of that am­ Russian navy, that I am chiefly indebted for the evidence bition, which has given to the Russian empire an extent bearing on this subject, which is extracted from the Narra­ unparalleled, either in ancient or modern times. Its bound­ tive of the Second Voyage of Discovery, performed by that aries have been enlarged to the west, to the south, to the officer, and recently published in the German language. It east - in short, on every side where nature has not placed claims the serious consideration of his Majesty's ministers, an impassable barrier; and, like the fabled giant-polypus, whose bounden duty it is to protect the rights of the British it is still stretching out its mighty arms to grasp every thing nation from invasion by foreigners - of the great capitalists within their reach. Sweden and Poland, Persia and Turkey, whose coffers are bursting for want of safe speculations in have successively felt the effects of this inordinate lust of which to embark their superfluous wealth- of the phi­ dominion; but, it is to the less obtrusive advances of Russia lanthropist who regards all the tribes of the great family in another quarter - on the north-west coast of America - of man as his brethren, and would rejoice to promote the that the following pages are designed to awaken attention. extinction of Slavery in its most degrading form - of the These silent encroachments, owing no doubt to the urgen­ sincere professor of the religion of Christ, who is desirous cy of more important affairs nearer home, may have been that its benign influence should be diffused over all the over-looked by our government, nay, perhaps may be still nations of the earth - of the political economist who, con­ unknown to the statesmen of Britain. vinced of the necessity of seeking suitable outlets for the 24 the Ambitiolis ':Projects of 1tlissia ':In 1tegard % ~estern ~ meric~ 2~ ca110.rr10611Bhll:t npoer-T poccin ca~10JI10611Bhl:fi npoeKT poccinJI o l'H0IIIc 11ie ccnc p11 o-a a nap;nan 'IaCTb aMcp 1 ca or no IIIcrue anal overflowings of our population, would rather see his emi­ beyond it a tract of more than two thousand miles, wholly grant countrymen transplanted to a land abounding in unoccupied by any civilized nation. resources, than sent to perish in the arid wastes of South­ Early in 1786, a company of British merchants, resident ern Africa, to contend for half the year with the rigours in the East Indies, began to send out vessels to this quarter, of a Canadian winter, or to encounter the disappointments for the purpose of procuring furs for the supply of the of a Swan River delusion - and more especially of all Chinese market.The point principally frequented with this those who, from what motive soever, would fain exchange view was Nootka, or King George's Sound, in the latitude their native country for one where Nature offers, in return of 49 degrees 34 minutes, consequently twelve degrees dis­ for a small expense of labour, a profusion of her bounties. tant from Port St. Francisco. Here the adventurers, being The commercial advantages likely to accrue from the in some measure satisfied with their traffic, in which they foundation of a British Colony on the west coast of the employed generally two, but never more than four, small American continent, particularly if the projected com­ vessels, took measures in 1788 to form a permanent settle­ munication between the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific ment.The Spaniards, however, conceived a jealousy of this Ocean should be carried into effect, I shall leave to be intrusion on what they had been accustomed to regard as estimated by others who, from their professional pursuits their exclusive property ; and in consequence, a frigate was and practical knowledge of the subject, are better qualified dispatched from the viceroyalty of Mexico, to put an end for the task than myself, content with having directed the to this commerce. She arrived in May, 1789, took posses­ public attention to a point, in which the national honour sion of the little settlement and captured two of the English and the national interest appear to be equally involved. trading vessels. No sooner did intelligence of these pro­ Anterior to the last forty years, the court of Spain affect­ ceedings reach Europe, than preparations were made by ed to consider the whole west coast of the American con­ the British Government for resenting them. tinent, from the straits of Magellan to the Arctic Ocean, The formidable nature of these demonstrations had its as part and parcel of the domains of his Catholic Majesty. due influence on the court of Madrid which, by a conven­ At that period, Spain was in fact the only power which tion, offered restitution for the captures and aggressions possessed settlements upon that immense line of coast. made by the subjects of his Catholic Majesty ; together Her northernmost establishment was Port St. Francisco, with an acknowledgment of an equal right with Spain to situated in 37 degrees 48 minutes north latitude, leaving the exercise and prosecution of commercial undertakings 1

26 the ~mhitimu j)rojects of ~lusia 'Jn 'R.egard % "Western America 27 caMOJII06HBh!lt npoeKT poccin caMOJIJ061!BJ,IJ;i npoeKT pOCCHJO O~'HOmeHie ceBe pHo-sarra,o;HaH '!aCTh a Me pi ca OT norneHie CP Bi in those seas, reputed before to belong to the Spanish as in all other parts of the north-western coast of .North crown alone. Agreeably to this convention, Count Florida America, or ofthe islands adjacent, situated to the north of the Blanca, the minister of Spain, addressed a letter, dated parts of the said coast already occupied by Spain, wherever Aranjuez, 12th of May, 1791, to the governor or command­ the subjects of either of the two powers shall have made er of the port of St. Lawrence, commanding him "to give settlements since the month of April, 178 9, or shall here­ directions that such officer of his Britannic Majesty as after make, any of the subjects of the other shall have free should present this letter should be immediately put in access, and shall carry on their trade without disturbance possession of the buildings and districts which were occu­ or molestation." pied by the subjects of that sovereign in April, 178 9, as That I am correct in the above interpretation is evident well in the port of Nootka, or of St. Lawrence, as in the from the following passage in Captain Vancouver's Narra­ other, said to be called Port Cox, and to be situated about tive of transactions at Monterey. "In the course of con­ sixteen leagues distant from the former to the southward." versation, Senor Quadra ( the Spanish naval commander The extensive branches of the fisheries, and the fur trade on this station) informed me that on his arrival in this port to China, being considered as objects of very material im­ from Nootka, he found orders directing him to capture all portance to this country, it was deemed expedient that an vessels he should find engaged in commercial pursuits on officer should be sent to Nootka to receive back in form this coast, from the Presidios northward to the extent a restitution of the territories which the Spaniards had where the general traffic is carried on, excepting vessels seized, and to make an accurate survey of the coast from belonging to the people of Great Britain, who were to the 30th degree of north latitude, north-westward toward proceed without the least interruption or molestation." Cook's river. The officer selected for this commission was It appears, however, from the recent work of Kotzebue Captain George Vancouver. that, in the teeth of these orders, and in spite of the jealousy By the express words of the fifth article of the conven­ of foreign intrusion cherished by Spain, the Russian Amer­ tion between Great Britain and Spain, I should conceive ican Company, favoured no doubt by the political embar­ that the right of those two powers to this line of coast is rassments in which that power has been so long involved, sufficiently established. It is as follows:- has been suffered to found without opposition, a settlement " It is agreed that, as well in the places that are to be in the extensive island of Sitka, in Norfolk Sound, in the restored to the British subjects by virtue of the first article, latitude of 57 degrees, a second in latitude 38 degrees, ll

11 28 the Ambitiolis j),ojects of 1t1usia 'in 'kegard % o/lestern ~ TJuric~ 2~ caMOJI 10 6u B hiii rrpoe KT pocci a caMoJI ro6:0n bI:l!: rrpoeKT pocci:0JI OT HO rneH ie cc ne pu o-3 arra,[IHaJI qac TL a~rn p 1 ca o T HOUIC H 1e ana1 about eighty miles distant from the Spanish Mission of So high as latitude 48 degrees, the same navigator de­ St. Francisco, and a third, of inferior consequence, in the scribes this coast as eminently beautiful. Of Protection same quarter. Island and Port Discovery, he says," I could not possibly The country commencing at what Vancouver regarded believe that any uncultivated country had ever been dis­ as the limit of the Spanish possessions, in latitude 3 9 covered exhibiting so rich a picture, which could not fail degrees 20 minutes, to the entrance to Admiralty Inlet in to call to our remembrance certain delightful and beloved latitude 48 degrees 16 minutes, has been dignified by navi­ situations in Old England .... The soil for the most part gators and geographers with the name of New Albion.This is a light sandy loam, in some places of very considerable whole coast was carefully surveyed by that officer, agree­ depth, and abundantly mixed with decayed vegetables. ably to his instructions, and on the 4th of June 1792, being The vigour and luxuriance of its productions proved it to the birthday of his royal master, he took formal possession be a rich fertile mould.... Iron ore in its various forms of it in his Majesty's name, as likewise of all the islands was generally found, and from the weight and magnetic situated in Admiralty Inlet and in an interior sea which he qualities of some specimens, appeared tolerably rich. The had discovered and named the Gulf of Georgia. Canadian and Norwegian hemlock, silver pines, the Taca­ A short extract or two from Captain Vancouver's narra­ mahac and Canadian poplar, arbor vitae, common yew, tive will enable the reader to form some estimate of the black and common dwarf oak, American ash, common capabilities of these countries. hazel, sycamore, and sugar, mountain and Pennsylvania Off the coast in latitude 40 degrees, he found immense maple, and oriental arbutus, American alder, and common numbers of whales, of the kind which in Greenland are willow, with the Canadian alder, small-fruited crab, and called £inners. "The inland country, which rises in a pleas­ Pennsylvania cherry-trees, constituted the forests, which ing diversity of hills and dales, was completely clothed may be considered rather as encumbered than adorned with forest trees of considerable magnitude ; and those with underwood; although there were several places where spots which on first view had the appearance of having the traveller might pass without being in the least incom­ been cleared of their wood by art, were now seen to extend moded, excepting by the undecayed trunks of trees which generally along the sea-side, and their being destitute of had fallen. - This country, regarded in an agricultural wood was evidentally to be ascribed to some natural cause. point of view, I should conceive capable of high improve­ They were beautifully green, with a luxuriant herbage." ment, though the soil in general may be considered light

. 30 the Jfmbitiolis ':Projects of

II

, 32 the Jfmbitious ~rojects of 1t11ssia ':hi ~egard % ~ estern dfm,erica 33 ca~10;rrro6rrBhlfi rrpoeRT poccirr ca~10JI106rrBhlfi rrpoeRT poccinJI O'l'H o me Hie cc BC pH o-a arragnan •1 ncT1, a~1c pi ca OT u o me uie a rra i America : they carried on a regular traffic with Siberia, but and the Aleutian Islands. The Company then resolved to lived at constant variance with each other. Possessing, by extend their settlements to the southward, and thus rose means of their fire-arms, a decided superiority over the New Archangel, their principal establishment, on the island natives, they kept extending their conquests, conducted of Sitka, at the bottom of Norfolk Sound. This island, sepa­ themselves in the most crnel manner towards the timid rated by a narrow channel only from the continent, occu­ Aleutes, and probably would have exterminated the whole pies three degrees and a half of longitude. race, but for the interference of the emperor Paul. By his For two years, every thing went on prosperously; till, command, a Russian American Commercial Company, one night, the place was surprised by an overwhelming under the protection of, and responsible to the government force of the natives, who are described as a martial, cruel, was established to supersede the trading companies above and treacherous race; they put to death the whole garrison, mentioned, which were permitted to hold shares in the with the exception of a few Aleutian hunters who happen­ new institution, to which was granted an exclusive privi­ ed to be absent. This event occurred just at the period of lege of carrying on traffic and founding settlements in these Krusenstern's voyage round the world; his consort, the parts. The Directors who manage its concerns and to whom Newa, was destined for the settlement, and, on the news of the governors of the settlements are subordinate, reside at this catastrophe, sailed thither with three smaller vessels. St. Petersburg. The wooden fortress, encompassed with a palisade, resist­ The coasts of Kamtschatka formerly abounded in sea­ ed the besiegers for three days, but when the heavy cannon otters ; but the unrestricted destruction of these animals had made a breach in the enclosure, the natives, amounting soon diminished their numbers to such a degree that the to three hundred fighting men, besides their families, sub­ Company was obliged to go further in quest of them ; for mitted and gave the sons of some of their chiefs as hostages this reason they pushed on beyond the Aleutian Islands for the fulfilment of their promises.Though peace was thus to the island of Kodiak, situated near the American coast, concluded, and they had liberty to depart without moles­ and there fixed their principal establishment. From this tation, yet such was their mistrust of the Russians that they point they made excursions to the Bay of the Tchugatches retired unobserved one dark night, after they had murdered and Cook's River. The otters, pursued with persevering all their old people and children who might have impeded assiduity, soon began to be scarce there; in the space of a their flight. From that time, the Russians have remained in few years, they were almost exterminated in Kamtschatka peaceful possession of the settlement, which they rebuilt I

34 tbe dfmhitio11s ':Projects of ~tusia 3n 'R.egard % ~estern America 35 caMOJTJ06IIBhrtt rrpoeKT poccin caMOJTJ06IIBhltt rrpoeKT poccirr10 OTHOUIBH ie C!'B(' pH o-aarrn.}"\Rlt/1 'Ill.CT!, ltM(' pi en OTHO l[J('H if' CC' B j on a lofty hill, and so defended by fortifications as to render of Asia, it is the very reverse. In the middle of winter, the it safe against any surprise. Under the name of New Arch­ cold is not severe, nor does it last long. Both soil and angel, this place has become the capital of the Russian climate are unsuited to agriculture. There is not, perhaps, possessions in America, which extend from the 52nd degree on the face of the earth, a spot where so much rain falls as of latitude to the Arctic Ocean, but to which belong two here: a dry day is an extraordinary circumstance. A few settlements situated further southward. culinary vegetables such as cabbage, turnips and potatoes The sea-otters taken by the Company's servants at this thrive tolerably well. On the main land, under the same settlement were at first a source of great profit: but those latitude, the climate, though somewhat colder, is said to animals are becoming more and more scarce, so that the be much more favourable and, from the extensive plains produce of the furs collected by the hunters is far exceeded existing there, it would probably be found adapted to agri­ by the expense of keeping up a force sufficient to make cultural pursuits. The hills of Sitka are covered with thick head against the wild and warlike Kalusches, as the natives woods, chiefly consisting of the larch and the pine, some are called by the Russians. The Company, therefore, are of which trees are one hundred and sixty feet high, and already considering the propriety of giving up New Arch­ six or seven feet in diameter. angel altogether, and again making Kodiak their principal The sea on the coasts and in the bays abounds in whales, establishment. "It would, however, be a pity," observes sea-hogs, seals, and sea-lions, herrings, several species of Captain Kotzebue, "that such a design should be carried salmon, and cod. The species of birds here met with are into execution, as some other nation might probably take not numerous ; but we are surprised to learn that several advantage of it to settle in these parts, to the injury of the kinds of humming-birds should migrate so far north as trade of the Company. It is possible, indeed, that the funds Sitka, from the tropical regions which have been hitherto of the Company may not be adequate to the maintenance considered as their exclusive abode. Among the quadru­ of New Archangel, and, in this case, it will probably be peds inhabiting its woods is the black bear, the fur of which abandoned, unless the Government should think fit to is so costly in Russia. A species of wild sheep, which fre­ interfere." quents the highest hills is yet known to the Russians only At this place, in the latitude of 57 degrees north, the from the description of the natives. Its wool is as fine and climate is, upon the whole, much milder than in Europe soft as silk. The most valuable of the animals found here is under the same parallel; whereas, on the north-east coast the sea-otter, which inhabits only the north-west coast of II

36 the Jfmbitimu ~rojects of 1tussia

40 the A mbitio11s jJ,ojects of ~ 11ssia

46 the Ambitiolis 'Projects of 'R.ussia c:Jn ~egard % cWestern America 4 7 ca~10Jim6nB bifi rrpoeKT pocci11 ca~10Jim6nBblfi rrpoeKT poccinJI OTHOllleHic C(> B(' J)H0-3:t nan Hil,H 'lil,CTh ILMl'J) i ca OTHO me Hie C(' 11 i to yield the most luxuriant harvests ; but you would look was visited by them ; for till lately there were no boats in vain for inhabitants to take advantage of the gifts which whatever in these parts, and even now each Mission has Nature so lavishly offers.The silence of death, uninterrupt­ but one barge, with which the pious monks make ex­ ed save by wild beasts, pervades these delicious scenes. As cursions up the rivers that discharge themselves into the far as the eye can reach, not a habitation, not a trace of man northern half of the bay, for the purpose of winning prose­ is to be discovered. Not a canoe appears upon the waters lytes among the Indians who are sometimes to be found of this bay, capable of containing whole navies, and form­ upon their banks, and thus obtaining a recruit oflabourers. ing several excellent harbours. The large white pelican, The Indians themselves have no other canoes but such as with the enormous pouch under its bill, alone profits by are formed of reeds bound together, in which they sit up to the abundance of fish : for, in two centuries during which their hips in water. That, in a country which produces the the Spaniards have had settlements in California, they have finest timber in the utmost profusion, none of the inhabi­ not advanced so far as to possess a single net. How happy tants has ever thought of constructing the simplest boat, and free from care might thousands of families live here ! affords strong evidence of Spanish indolence and the stu­ and how much better would those Europeans who went as pidity of the Indians. colonists to Brazil have fared, if they had settled in this This island swarmed with wild ducks and other sea­ country! There they have to contend with many more diffi­ fowl: white-headed eagles hovered over the oak-trees, and culties ; they have not been treated by the government as pursued a kind of very small hares, and a handsome species they have been taught to expect, and at length succumb to of partridge which is very common there. the excessive heat: here they would have found the climate The different tacks which the Russians were obliged to of the south of Germany, and a Nature that would have make lengthened the passage to at least forty miles, so that liberally remunerated their slightest efforts." it was midnight when they arrived at the landing-place, a After proceeding about fifteen miles, the party landed on league distant from the Mission. Here they passed the night a small beautiful island where the men cooked their dinner in the small tents they had brought with them. Though it and took their meal beneath shady oaks. The northern was the end of September, the air was as mild as in our shore of this island was tolerably elevated and rose almost warmest nights in summer. All around them they heard an perpendicularly from the sea. There was no indication that incessant barking and yelping like that of young dogs. It men had ever been upon this island, and probably it never proceeded from a small species of wolf, about the size of 48 the Ambitio11s ~rojects of ft11ssia 'Jn 'ltegard % Western America 49 ca:.10JI10611Bblil: npoeKT poccirr ca~10JI106rrBhlil: rrpoertT pocciuJI OTHOmcuie ceBep110-3ana,111,1JI ,racTb a,1epica0Tno111enic ceni a fox, which is very numerous all over California. These buildings to which adjoin gardens, which, though negli­ animals are extremely bold and sly, and in the dark, ap­ gently cultivated, produce culinary vegetables, fruit of all proach human habitations from which they are not easily sorts, and the finest grapes, in profusion. The buildings scared, to seize what they can, as the party learned from resemble those of all the other Missions, consisting of a experience. The provisions not having been properly se­ large stone church, a very spacious dwelling for the monks, cured, they found in the morning the meat-sack gnawed vast store-houses for the grain and implements, and lastly, through and quite empty. the rancherias or barracks for the Indians. These last are The rising sun enabled the Russians to reconnoitre the long ranges oflow narrow houses, or rather stalls with par­ environs of their encampment. They consisted of immense titions for each of the families, in which they have scarcely plains which had been cropped with wheat. The harvest room to lie down. Besides these there is a large quadrangle, was over, and large herds of horned cattle, horses and sheep enclosed by houses which have no windows outside, and were grazing in the stubbles. The Mission of St. Clara is rich no other entrance than a small door which is kept carefully in these animals, possessing more than fourteen thousand locked, so that it has all the appearance of a gaol for crimi­ head of horned cattle, one thousand horses, and ten thous­ nals. Here the monks, as rigid guardians of chastity, keep and sheep. The greater part of these are left without any the young unmarried female Indians shut up under their care to run wild in the woods, where they multiply very fast. own special superintendence, and employed in spinning, The way to the Mission lay directly across the stubbles, weaving, and such-like occupations. This place of confine­ which were covered by flocks of wild geese, ducks, and ment is opened to the prisoners only to go to church, which snipes of all kinds, which suffer you to approach so near they are compelled to do twice or thrice a day. "I have that with a little practice you might kill numbers by throw­ several times seen this door opened," continues Captain ing sticks at them. These birds of passage pass the winter Kotzebue, "and the poor girls rush out with real fury to here, after spending the summer and breeding in the north. enjoy the fresh air, and then driven like a flock of sheep by A few shots fired at the geese brought down a dozen, some of a ragged Spaniard, with a stick in his hand, to the church, which were quite white and as large as our common geese. whence, as soon as mass is over, they must return to their The Mission of St. Clara, founded in 1777, is seated on prison. With such care are the young females guarded by a small stream of the purest water, in an extensive plain their spiritual fathers ; and yet iron bars were attached to of inconceivable fertility. Majestic oaks overshadow the the legs of some of these unattractive fair-ones as a penalty so the Ambitio11s 'Projects of 'R.11ssia <;/11 jtegard % W estern Jfm,erica sz caMOJII06IIBhl.lt rrpoeKT pocciII caMoJiro6nBhl.lt rrpoeKT poccinJI 0TH0rneHie ccnepno-:iarranHafl •raCTb aMcpicn OTHorneHie cPni for eluding their vigilance. It is not till they are married their condition. Many a one, indeed, seeks to better it by that these nuns are allowed to remove to the barracks of running away : the soldiers, however, soon contrive to their people." ferret out his retreat; and, as it has already been observed, Thrice a day the bell summons the Indians to their they frequently bring him by force from amidst his savage meals, which are prepared in many large cauldrons, and countrymen when severe punishment awaits him. It is then divided into specific portions for each family. They therefore to the brutal nature alone of these Indians that seldom have meat. Their usual fare is a kind of pudding, we must ascribe the resignation with which they submit to composed of wheaten flour, maize, peas and beans mixed the treatment in the Missions; "and I must confess," says together and boiled in water-not the most wholesome diet. Kotzebue, "that I never saw so stupid and so repulsive a The Mission of St. Clara has fifteen hundred male Indi­ race, who stand perhaps still lower in the scale of humanity ans, about one half of which number are married. This than even the natives of Terra del Fuego and Van Dieman's mass of people are governed by three monks, and guarded Land. These creatures have in fact but a distant resem­ by four soldiers and a subaltern officer. As this force is blance to men. The Christian religion, or rather what is sufficient to keep so large a number of individuals under so called by the monks, has not advanced them one step control, it is to be presumed either that the Indians of the in civilization. How, indeed, could it find entrance into Mission find themselves better off there than with their free their obtuse minds, when the preachers are almost utterly and savage brethren; or that, from their contracted under­ destitute of the means of rendering themselves intelligible, standings, they are but little superior to the brutes whose owing to ignorance of their various languages! On the con­ instinct chains them to the spot where they are fed. The trary, the conduct of Christian teachers towards these step­ former does not seem to be the case. Hard labour every day, children of Nature has only served to render them more Sunday alone excepted, which they are obliged to spend degraded. I have since had occasion to see free Indians, almost entirely in prayer, corporal chastisement, imprison­ who appeared to be less stupid, and to stand on a rather ment, and iron bars attached to the legs for the slightest higher step than those under the superintendence of the disobedience to the will of the monks, wretched fare, as gente rational, as the Spaniards here style themselves. If, wretched lodging, the privation of all property and of al­ instead of taking pains to make them merely Christians to most every kind of enjoyment - these are things not ex­ outward appearance, they had endeavoured to make them actly calculated to make human beings contented with men, taught them to build houses, to till the ground, and 52 the Ambitious <;Projects of <;R1usia ~hi 1tegard % CWestern A merica 53 ca:\lOJiro6unblil: npoeKT poccin calrnnro6unblil: npoeKT poccinn OTROIIICUiC' CCD('PHO-:Jarra;,nnn '1:LCTb a,rcpicaOTlfOll!('Hie ceni to rear cattle, upon lands which were to remain their own bushes, wherever they mean to make some stay, and these exclusive property, and the produce of which they might they burn when they quit that part of the country. dispose of as they pleased; human civilization would soon Agriculture is, as it has been already observed, the pro­ of itself have made progress among them, and los Barbaros ductive source of the revenues of the ecclesiastics resident would perhaps by this time have been on a level with the here. It is carried on by them upon a large scale. The gente rational." quantity of wheat annually sown by those of St. Clara alone There are very many tribes oflndians in California whose exceeds three thousand fanegas, about six hundred and languages differ so much from each other as frequently to twenty quarters ; and such is the fertility of the soil that have no sort of resemblance ; for instance, in the single the crop may be reckoned on an average at forty-fold, though Mission of St. Clara more than twenty distinct languages a European farmer would have many faults to find with the are spoken; but all these tribes have the same ugly, filthy, mode of tillage. The ground is turned up with a very im­ stupid, disgusting appearance.They never exceed the mid­ perfect plough, then sown, and again ploughed. This com­ dle stature, are very weakly built, and of a nearly black pletes the operation, and a considerable part of the seed is complexion. They have universally flat faces, thick lips, smothered beneath the large hard clods. Under good man­ broad, negro-like noses, scarcely any forehead, and coal agement, these lands would yield crops unparalleled in black, very coarse and lank hair. Their mental powers yet Europe. The monks themselves acknowledge that they lie profoundly dormant; and perhaps La Perouse has not know very little of agriculture, and that they are perfectly greatly exaggerated when he remarked that any of them, satisfied with the rich harvests produced upon the present capable of comprehending that twice four is eight, might system: but their neglect in regard to the means of grinding pass for a Descartes or a Newton among his countrymen. corn is unpardonable. Up to the present time there is not In a savage state all these Indians lead a roving life. a single mill in all California, so that the poor harassed Hunting is their sole occupation, their only resource for Indians are obliged to grind the wheat with great labour procuring subsistence. Hence skill in shooting with the between two flat stones. bow and arrow is their sole qualification ; and it has cost "We walked," continues the writer, "from the Mission many a Spaniard his life. Without clothing of any kind, to the Pueblo, about a mile and a half distant. This term is they roam through the woods and mountains in quest of applied in California to a village inhabited by married in­ game. It is only for a short time that they construct huts of valids, and soldiers discharged from the Presidios, and 54 the dfmbitiolis

1, now and then, with countless herds of the small species of succession of lofty, peaked, rocky crags, thickly covered deer above-mentioned, which were so bold that we were with larch trees, and deep abrupt precipices. About noon, obliged to ride in among them to scare them away; but then having ascended to a considerable height, we saw to the they darted off with the swiftness of an arrow. We also met, west the ocean, whose shore here forms Port Romanzov I

64 the Ambitimts ':Projects of 'R.1usia ':In 'Regard % CWestern America 65 caMonm6n Bhlfi rrpoeRT pocci n ca~rnnro6uahltt npoeKT pocciun OTHOIIICI! ie ccnepH0-3 a11:1:-1n:trT 4 aC Th ll,Ml'p ica OT I!() Ill(' Hie cc B j which is capable of admitting small vessels only, for which with the consent of the natives of the country, who even I reason the inconsiderable Russian settlement there never assisted in the transport of the timber and the erection of can be so flourishing as it might have become in the bay of the buildings.The object of this establishment was to profit

St. Francisco. To the east was a valley that ran far inland, by the great quantity of sea-otters 011 the coast of California, and which, Estudillo told me, was called by the Indians as the animal began to be scarce in the northern settlements. the White Men's Valley. The Spaniards, who never engaged in this pursuit, cheer­ "An old tradition is current among them that a ship was fully allowed the Russians, for a compensation, to fix them­ once stranded on this coast, and that the crew, consisting selves on this part of the coast where the sea-otters were of white men, made this valley their place of abode, and then numerous. They are now become rare there, as well lived at peace with the Indians. Of what afterwards became as all over the world ; still the hunters of Ross are more of these people they cannot give any account.To the north­ successful than those in any other quarter. east was a lofty range of hills, thickly overgrown with fir The fortress is a quadrangle surrounded by a high sub­ trees which appeared very difficult of access, and has there­ stantial palisade, with two bastions planted with fifteen fore been chosen by the Indians for their abode, as the pieces of cannon. The garrison, at the time of Kotzebue's ascending columns of smoke demonstrated. Our soldiers visit, consisted of one hundred and thirty men, the smaller informed us that this was the retreat of a chief, who was part of whom were Russians, and the others Aleutians. At feared as well by his own people as by the Spaniards for first, the Spaniards felt no jealousy of this settlement but, his personal valour ; and that this tribe in general belonged on the contrary, supplied it with oxen, cows, horses and to a quite different race of men, who are distinguished for sheep; when, however, they observed that, notwithstand­ their courage, and prefer death to servitude in the Missions. ing the inferior quality of the soil and the less favourable Perhaps they owe their superior energies and spirit of in­ climate, it prospered more than theirs, they began to be dependence to intermixture with the shipwrecked whites." apprehensive lest the Russians might become dangerous We are now introduced to the Russian settlement, the neighbours. They insisted on their leaving the place, de­ description of which deserves particular attention. claring that the Spanish territories on the north-west coast The settlement of Ross, situated in latitude 38 degrees, of America extended to the Arctic Ocean, and threatening 33 minutes, upon an eminence on the sea- shore, and on to enforce their requisition by an appeal to arms. M. von the bank of an inconsiderable river, was founded in 1812, Kuskoff, the founder and then governor of Fort Ross, an 66 the Jfmbitiolts jJrojects of 'R..tusia '/In 1tegard % "Western A:m,erica 67 ca~!OJII06nB blll: rrpoeK T p occ i rr caMOJII06 n B bIJ:i rrp oeKT p occ i IIJT OTI!Oll]Cll ie ce BC'p H0-3:\1111,,UH:lJI '111CTT, 11 \TC'pica OTIIOmenie cen j intelligent officer and not easily daunted, returned for between them. The inhabitants of Ross go singly to a great answer that he had established himself by command of distance into the country to hunt stags and other game, and his superiors in that part of the country, which had not pass the nights among various tribes of Indians, without been previously taken possession of by any power, and to ever receiving any injury from them. The Spaniards dare which none could have any right but the natives, who had not venture to do so. The more striking the contrast be­ voluntarily ceded that right to him ; that he could not tween their treatment of the Indians and that of the Rus­ therefore comply with so unreasonable a requisition, and sians, the more must the philanthropist rejoice on entering should oppose force with force. The Spaniards, aware that the Russian territory. The Greek church forces her tenets they were no match for the Russians, desisted from their upon none. Exempt from fanaticisms, she preaches toler­ ridiculous demand, and renewed their friendly relations ; ation and love. Nay, she does not even permit persuasion, the greatest harmony now prevails between both nations. but leaves the question of union with her to be decided by Ross is, besides, of great benefit to the Spaniards. Through­ the unbiased conviction of the mind of each individual ; out all California, they have neither black-smith nor lock­ and to him whom she once receives into her bosom she smith; so that they are obliged to have all their implements remains an affectionate mother. How different has been the of iron made and repaired at a high price by the Russians. conduct of Catholic priests and Protestant missionaries!" However, to prevent the latter from extending their settle­ Ross enjoys a mild climate. The mercury in Reaumur's ment to the north coast of the bay of St. Francisco, the thermometer rarely falls in winter to the freezing point; but Spaniards quickly erected there the Missions of St. Rafael the frequent fogs on this coast are unfavourable to horti­ and St. Francisco Solano. "The advantages of a post on this culture. A few wersts* inland, to which distance the fogs do fine bay are too obvious to be overlooked," adds Captain not extend, most of the southern plants thrive well. Culi­ Kotzebue, "especially as we have only the wretched har­ nary vegetables attain an extraordinary size. You meet with bour of Bodega, or Port Romanzov." turnips weighing fifty pounds, pumpkins of sixty-five, and "The inhabitants of Ross live in the greatest harmony others in proportion. Potatoes yield from one hundred to with the native Indians, who come in great numbers into two hundred fold, and two crops a year. It is scarcely possi­ the fort and work for wages. They give their daughters in ble that famine could ever be known here. The fort is marriage to the Russians and Aleutians, and these alliances surrounded by fields of wheat and barley which, on account

serve to strengthen the good understanding subsisting • I.e., verst, a Russian measure of length: about two-thirds of a mile. I

68 tbe cffm,bitious jJ,ojects of '1lllssia c:ln 1tegard % ~estern A merica 69 caMOJI I06H B bitt II p 08KT pocci II caMOJII06 If B bltt II pOeKT po cc i H :rI 0 TITO IIICH ie cc Be pH0-31t rragu /UI <[ltCTb a M<'P i ca OT HO ITT(' Hie ce n i of the fogs, are not so productive as those of the Spaniards assuming that they all belong to one and the same race, at St. Clara, but reward the labours of the owners, the in­ though differing in language. Without permanent abodes, habitants of Ross, with the daily luxury of white bread and they wander about naked, and their sole occupation, when other comforts. The Aleutians, too, like this country so they are not working for the Russians, is the chace. In the well, that though most unwilling to leave home, they glad­ choice of their food they are not very nice. They eat with ly stay here and have no wish to return to their islands. avidity the most disgusting things, all kinds of insects and The Spaniards ought to take instruction in agriculture reptiles, with the exception of venomous serpents. For a from M. von Schmid, the governor of Ross. He has brought winter store, they collect acorns, and wild rye which grows every thing connected with this pursuit to a degree of per­ here in great abundance. When the rye is ripe, they set it fection that is truly admirable. All the machines and im­ on fire; the straw is burned and the roasted grain left be­ plements of husbandry are made here under his direction, hind. The latter is then swept together and, mixed with and are not inferior to the best in Europe. The Spanish acorns, eaten without further preparation. These Indians companions of the Russian navigator were filled with as­ have several games of chance, to which they are so passion­ tonishment, but what raised that astonishment to the high­ ately addicted that they often gamble away every thing est pitch was the sight of a windmill - a kind of machine they possess. which they had never before beheld. During his stay in the bay of St. Francisco, Captain Kot­ Ross possesses abundance of the finest timber, of which zebue took occasion to explore the rivers which discharge the Company have not failed to avail themselves. Two themselves by one common mouth into that bay. This ships had already been launched here. The sea furnishes mouth is a mile and a half broad, and though a bar, over the most delicious fish, and the land the finest species of which there is only two or three foot water, runs obliquely game in inexhaustible profusion.With all these advantages, across it, yet, on the east side, there is a channel deep the place lacks nothing but a good harbour. Notwithstand­ enough for vessels of middling size with their lading. The ing this deficiency, however, under judicious management party landed on the left bank to determine the position of the northern settlements may hereafter be supplied from this outlet, which was found to be in latitude 38 degrees, this spot with all that their necessities require. 2 minutes, 4 seconds, and longitude 122 degrees, 4 minutes. The Indians in this part of the country are very like "After this operation," continues the captain," I ascended those of the Spanish Missions, and we cannot err much in one of the most evelated points of the bank, and feasted

I 70 the A,nbitiolls ':Projects of 1t11ssia '/Jn ~egard 'To Western A merica 71 ca~IOJIIO 6 u B hlll: rrpoei< T poccin caM OJI IO 6 IIB hlll: rrpoei

into large circular basins, many miles in circumference •Among early explorers, there was much confusion regarding the na7!les of the and surrounded by enchanting landscapes. Its channel was San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers and their branches. Here we have one version of what was understood in the 1820's. The Pescadores would be the San at times diversified with beautiful islands, adorned with Joaquin, and the St. Joachim and Jesus Maria would be branches of the San spreading trees, and it was found to have every where suf­ Joaquin. Usnally, however, the term Jesus Maria was appl-ied to the Sacra- 7llento. See J . N. Bowman, " The Elusive Rio Jesus Maria," in California ficient depth for large vessels. The hilly banks alternated Histori cal Quarterly, Vol. VI, January, 1947. ·· The name is derived fro7Jl the Karquin Indians. In the early days it was frequently written Karquines. I

72 tbe A m1bitious "Projects of Nevada, which runs through adapted to the culture of rice, and the higher, from the all America from north to south, towered high above the invariable richness of the soil, would yield the most a­ horizon at the distance of not less than forty miles. It ap­ bundant crops of the finest wheat. The vine could not but peared to be covered half-way down with ice and snow. thrive well, as Nature herself has already planted it here : Between the mountains and the river the country is level, the banks being every where covered with wild vines. The very low, thickly clothed with wood, and intersected by an individual grapes are as small as peas, very sweet, and of infinite multitude of large and small streams which divided an agreeable flavour: but the bunches grow to a great size. it into islands. As yet, the Russians had not met with a In every part of the country deer, large and small, were single Indian during the whole excursion; but the numer­ grazing in herds, and the banks of the river were occupied ous columns of smoke rising from the swampy, insulated by geese, ducks and cranes. country towards the Sierra Nevada, indicated that they had Kotzebue proceeded up the Sacramento to the latitude fled thither for safety from the lasoes of the military emis­ of 38 degrees 27 minutes, and longitude 122 degrees 10 saries of their converters. minutes. At this point, where unfavourable weather put an It may be assumed with certainty that not only the river end to this exploratory excursion, the river is from 250 to of Pescadores but also the St. Joachim and Jesus Maria, 300 fathoms broad. "We now set out on our return," says which discharge themselves into it, have their sources in the captain, "and soon quitted these beautiful and fertile the icy mountains, as they come from the east and run regions, where many thousands of families might live in through the low country where they receive a multitude abundance, but which, notwithstanding all their luxuri­ of inferior streams. The Sacramento, on the other hand, ance, leave, from their total want of inhabitants, but a dis­ comes from a totally different quarter, from the north, and agreeably awful impression, which the thought of the according to the report of some of the Indians in the Mis­ extermination of the Indians renders still more painful. sions, it runs out of a large lake. The Slavianka, which • This was the R11,ssian River, though of cottrse it was not a branch of the Sacramento. 74 the Ambitious jJrojects of 1tussia

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