Issue No. 195 Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 ORDER DELIVERY TO Locals Serbia’s gay New YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 puzzled by couples Belgrade, [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 mystery face legal from swamp BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 ‘love wall’ discrimination to city

Page 5 Page 6 Page 9 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Serbia eyes Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser Refugees fear being windfall - - - fromNEWS Telecom trapped in Balkans NEWS Refugees in the sale “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: Balkans fear The sale of shares party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. borders may be in Telekom Srbija closed - leaving

is dividing unions page 10 them in limbo and experts- but in countries that the government cannot deal with looks determined hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - refugees over a a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W

to sell if right price June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, longer period. is offered.

BIRN Team Stevan VELJOVIĆ page 5

e are afraid elekom Srbija could that they will soon have a new owner, close the bor- provided the right bid der now. But satisfies the Serbian conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the we don’t fear government as the ma- After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party “Wterror much anymore. Every village jority stakeholder. E in Syria is worse than Paris… we don’t TThe minimum asking price set for have much to lose,” a 17-year-old Syrian the government’s 58 per cent of the called Mossa told BIRN in Belgrade. shares is €1.4 billion. Mossa said that he and several of his The Privatization Agency an- Friday • June 13 2008 friends were heading for the Croatian nounced a call for non-bindings offers border and hoped to reach Western Eu- for the sale on July 3rd. Six bids had ar- rope from there. rived by November 16th, but the names But many of the refugees fear that of the bidders were not disclosed. THIS ISSUE OF their route to the EU will be blocked in Rasim Ljajić, the Minister of Trade Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED the wake of the Paris attacks on Novem- and Telecommunications, said on No- on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks th th “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic ber 13 . vember 17 that a commission will ana- which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T Continued on page 2 Refugees at the Serbia-Croatia border. Photo: BETA/AP/Darko Vojinović lyse the offers and make suggestions based on that in the third phase, which will take 14 days. He did not disclose details of the of- fers and potential investors, saying it Bosnians pessimistic could adversely affect the process of privatization. Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić said on November 18th that the govern- about peace deal’s legacy ment had not decided whether Tel- ekom would be sold. Regardless of their ethnicity, political affiliation or star, Prijedor, Sarajevo, Tuzla and other mended," agreed Osman Hopić, a Bos- “If we get a good price, I will be de- places across the country to gauge or- niak from the Doboj South municipality. lighted, if not, others will be happy, for economic status, many people in Bosnia and Her- dinary people’s views on Dayton’s suc- Yet this was pretty much the end of reasons that are beyond my compre- zegovina agree that the only success of the Dayton cesses and failures, as well as what they the consensus. From this point on, peo- hension,” he said. think about Bosnia and Herzegovina's ple’s views diverged in often opposing “In that case, I would probably be sad, peace agreement 20 years ago was ending the war. future - or the lack of it. directions. but I would have to accept it,” Vučić “We can say that the Dayton peace Alma from Prijedor said Dayton had added. BIRN Team While foreign diplomats, govern- agreement was successful only be- institutionalised wartime splits be- Dušan Vujović, the Minister of Fi- ment officials, activists and experts cause it stopped the bloodshed in tween ethnic groups, with politicians nance, hinted on November 18th that if his month’s 20th anniver- held discussions in upmarket confer- Bosnia and Herzegovina," said Emil from each group governing their own the bids are not satisfactory, the govern- sary of the Dayton peace ence rooms and parliamentary cham- Karamatić, a journalist and analyst fiefdoms and defending their own priv- ment may hire professional manage- deal that halted the 1992- bers, ordinary people have been having from the eastern, Bosniak-dominated ileges to the detriment of the country as ment while retaining state ownership, a 95 war has triggered re- similar conversations in the country’s part of the town of Mostar. a whole. model used in the troubled Smederevo newed public debate in streets and marketplaces. “The Dayton agreement was success- steel mill. TBosnia and Herzegovina about the BIRN’s reporters carried out a series ful only in ending the war, everything agreement's successes and failures. of interviews with locals in Doboj, Mo- else was not successful and should be Continued on page 8 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 PRESSCOMMENT REVIEW Refugees Unbiased critical news fear being ‘not welcome in Serbia’ BIRN publicly, including Serbia’s Inte- Recent attacks rior Minister Nebojša Stefanović. He questioned BIRN’s credibility as trapped in on independent the funding – he alleged – “comes from foreign donations and no domestic media by pro- money was ever given to the organisa- tion.” government However, Dragana Žarković, director Balkans of BIRN Serbia, says her organisation news outlets did receive funding from Serbian insti- lovenia, Croatia, Serbia and home village of Pekha in the Achin dis- tutions. Macedonia this week decid- trict of Afghanistan. threaten freedom “The Office for Cooperation with the ed to close their borders to “I lost my parents and two brothers of speech and Civil Sector, which is a Serbian govern- so-called economic refugees. and a sister. I don’t know where they ment body, is one of our funders. In From November 19th, only are at the moment. ISIS soldiers have citizens’ rights, 2015, they were supporting our Partici- Srefugees from Syria, Afghanistan and a headquarters in my village of Pekha pative Budgeting programme, which Iraq will be treated as legal migrants. and everybody fears them… we are also experts warn. enables public consultations in local Those coming from Sri Lanka, Su- running away from them,” he said. budget drafting,” Žarković said. dan, Morocco, the Democratic Repub- Ahmed reached Serbia through Tur- lic of Congo, Liberia and Pakistan can- key and Bulgaria and hoped to reach Ivana NIKOLIĆ CLIMATE OF FEAR not cross state borders anymore since Switzerland through Croatia. these countries are not officially in war. But the refugee route may become lmost a two-week Apart from posing threats to NGOs Previously French police on Novem- more complicated after the EU meet- media campaign and independent media outlets, the ber 17th called for witnesses to identify ing on November 20th, if countries on against three govern- pro-government media campaign has the attacker who blew himself up near the route introduce additional border ment watchdogs, the severe consequences for the public in the Stade de France stadium on Friday controls. Balkan Investigative general, experts warn. in attacks that killed 129 people. A Syri- In total, EU member states have built Reporting Network, They say the campaign might even an passport was found under the name more than 235 km of fences on the EU’s ABIRN, the Centre for Investigative Re- build a wall between Serbia’s citizens of Ahmad al-Mohammad near his body external borders at a cost of over €175 porting in Serbia, CINS, and the network and public institutions and authorities. but it has not been confirmed whether million. for investigating crime and corruption, “For citizens, it all means a visible the passport is genuine. This includes the 175 km fence along KRIK, has raised concerns among civil democratic deficit. It means the inabil- Police officers in the Balkans con- the Hungary-Serbia border, a 30 km society activists and media experts. ity to articulate, defend or to talk about firmed that the man pictured on the fence along the Bulgaria-Turkey border, Maja Stojanović, the head of the any criticism or alternative political Syrian passport passed along the Bal- which is to be extended by a further 130 Belgrade-based Civic Initiatives NGO, ideas,” Milivojević said. kan refugee “route” running through km and a 10.5 km fence in the Evros re- told BIRN the public perception is that “A decrease in investigative jour- Greece, Macedonia, Serbia and Croatia. gion along the Greece-Turkey border. whenever someone asks for more in- nalism,” Stojanović said, can lead to Right-wing politicians all over the Macedonia has warned it may build formation from the government con- “citizens not being able to follow any EU have since called for stricter bor- a fence on its southern border with cerning sensitive issues such as money Milivojević argues that citizens’ private data is “available for public trade”. Photo: Media Centre Belgrade more what is happening on the political der checks and for the scrapping of the Greece, currently the main entry point spent “they become a target and some- scene, or to control government’s work, passport-free Schengen agreement, for refugees. one who intervenes in the govern- The tabloid alleged that foreign of an Informer article claiming that “It is like in the 1990s, when only the money spending and creation of poli- saying that Islamic State militants were Macedonian President Gjorge Ivanov ment’s job”. grants were given to NGOs on dates the European Commission is “directly ‘donor money market’ was not con- cies.” posing as refugees. said on November 15th that the fence “Investigative reporting and a critical coinciding with publications of “false funding attempts to bring [Serbian PM trolled and when it [donations] enabled But Stojanović says a campaign – France has demanded stricter ex- would “not be aimed at closing the bor- attitude towards the government are affairs against people close to the gov- Aleksandar] Vučić down and instigate civil society institutions and a small which aims to silence any critical voic- ternal controls on the EU’s border. A der”, but at controlling and limiting the not welcome,” Stojanović said, pointing ernment”. chaos in Serbia.” number of critically-oriented media [to es or voices accusing the authorities of response to this request will be made flow. out one major consequence could be All three independent media have The Austrian bank told BIRN the report objectively],” Milivojević said. wrongdoing - also showed that human at the EU ministerial meeting starting If this occurs, however, refugees the slow disappearance of a watchdog investigated corruption and wrongdo- document published by Informer “is Milivojević said publishing of per- rights in general are being endangered. November 20th. could end up trapped in Balkan states element “in the NGO sector and in the ing within government and by officials. not from Raiffeisen”. sonal data clearly shows the inability of “When you have a situation that Human rights NGOs say the EU must that cannot even cope with the refugee media as well”. Most recently, KRIK published an in- institutions - that are supposed to pre- some media are being attacked on resist the urge to further seal its exter- quotas agreed at the EU meeting held “The [Serbian] government has the vestigation into properties allegedly INDEPENDENT FINANCING serve citizens’ information - to actu- many different levels, it means that not nal borders, as this would result in hu- on October 25th. aim of suppressing its citizens’ human owned by Belgrade’s Mayor Siniša Mali ally do so. Citizens’ private data is, she one person in Serbia is free to express Seventeen-year-old Mossa fled Syria. Photo: BIRN/Filip Avramović man rights abuses while doing little to The European Commission Presi- rights,” she said. and his role in handing state-owned Snježana Milivojević, a media expert claimed, “on disposal and available to a his or her opinion,“ Stojanović said, enhance security, or slow the influx of dent, Jean-Claude Juncker, then agreed The campaign to discredit output land to his family-run business. Mali and a professor at Belgrade University’s public trade”. adding this latest episode of attacks on refugees. with leaders of Greece, Albania, Mace- Some 3,000 refugees can find tem- “But these capacities are not enough “Drowning at sea or freezing in a Balkan from BIRN, KRIK and CINS began on has denied any wrongdoing. Faculty of Political Sciences, told BIRN “That criminalization goes without independent news outlets by pro-gov- The UN High Commissioner for Refu- donia, Bulgaria, Romania, Serbia, Croa- porary shelter on Serbian territory to keep people over a longer period of field can never be acceptable forms of bor- November 8th, when pro-government But the newspaper’s allegations the main motivation for the campaign punishment and its consequences are ernment media had exacerbated the gees, Antonio Guterres, on November tia, Hungary, Slovenia, Austria and Ger- where they can receive medical ser- time,” she added. der control,” Judith Sunderland, associate tabloid Informer started publishing a reached a peak on November 9th, when is the fact that NGOs and these three a breakdown of norms and apathy, current ‘climate of fear’ among media 17th said it was "nonsense" to blame many that 50,000 refugees would be vices, use hygienic facilities and re- Croatia can permanently accommo- Europe and Central Asia director at Hu- series of articles about all three, claim- Informer published a document pur- independent organisations receive as not even the public reacts to such professionals. refugees for the terror attacks in France, accommodated in Greece and another ceive some food in order to continue date only 550 people. man Rights Watch, said on November 16th. ing they are acting as “foreign merce- porting to be a BIRN banking statement money which cannot be controlled by things anymore,” Milivojević said. BIRN has contacted Serbian Govern- stressing that they could not be held col- 50,000 in Western Balkan states. their journey. But the five existing asy- “Croatia does not have a plan to “European governments should naries” and were trying to “bring down from the Austrian Raiffeisen Bank. government and thus the government Apart from the pro-regime oriented ment for a response, but it failed to re- lectively responsible for what had hap- However, the current total capacities lum centres can hold only about 1,200 increase its capacities as that would expand safe and legal channels and our government.” The document was published as part cannot affect their stories. media, some politicians also criticised ply by the time of publication. pened in Paris, Beirut and elsewhere. of the Balkan states do not exceed hold- permanently. mean the greater engagement of au- ensure access to asylum and humane Speaking in Serbia, Guterres urged ing 10,000 refugees. Ivan Gerginov, from the Serbian Com- thorities dealing with migrants, and our treatment at its borders and inside eve- European governments not to make Although some informal refugee missariat for the Refugees, told BIRN resources at the moment are limited,” ry single member state,” she added. any unilateral moves in response to centres have opened at key points that the situation could be better but Croatian police told BIRN. The rights organisation Amnesty In- the recent attacks but to find a united along the route, few of them can be Serbia was struggling with problems A total of 369,440 refugees have en- ternational urges the EU to implement a response. adapted for winter conditions. such as a lack of infrastructure and hu- tered Croatia since the beginning of the series of achievable, realistic measures “It is not the refugee outflows that Macedonian authorities say they man resources. crisis, few of whom stay long in Croatia. to respond to the global refugee crisis cause terrorism, it is terrorism, tyranny have a capacity to accept only some After registration in Preševo, refuges Balkan leaders hope the EU will pay and ensure protection for the hundreds and war that create refugees,” he said. 2,000 refugees over a longer period. move northwest towards Šid, on the bor- to increase their capacities to deal with of thousands who have already arrived Sadam Ahmed, 19-year-old from Af- The Macedonian Security Council der with Croatia, crossing into Croatia refugees but the amount of money that in mainland Europe. ghanistan, agreed that the Paris killings said if more refugees stay for a longer and then reaching other EU countries. Brussels is willing to offer the Western “The global refugee crisis represents had caused new problems for refugees. time, the country could not guarantee With snow and rain forecasted for Balkans is unknown. a huge challenge for the EU but it is far “We are in big trouble now… we are their humane treatment. the upcoming week, Croatia is trying Many human rights organisations from an existential threat,” John Dalhu- also coming from a war and now they “Macedonia will be forced to con- to adapt its refugee centres to sub-zero working in the field have criticised the isen Amnesty International’s Director want to send us back because of that,” front the challenge of a longer stay of temperatures. EU for failing to help the Balkan coun- for Europe and Central Asia, said. he told BIRN. uncontrolled number of migrants for Croatian police say the country’s tries to tackle the refuge crisis in a prop- “Managed, safe and legal routes into Ahmed, who wants to go to Switzer- which it has neither capacity nor pos- only refugee centre that is ready for er manner. Europe would go a long way towards land, said the EU needs to establish pro- sibility to offer humane treatment,” the winter, in Slavonski Brod, can hold a NGOs warn that the current action identifying security threats before they cedures to distinguish terrorists from council said on November 15th. maximum of 5,000 persons. plan, which seeks to prevent asylum arrive,” he added. ordinary refugees. Most refugees from the Middle East “Everything in the camp functions seekers moving on from transit coun- “The EU needs to be responding not “They need to check people… take and Africa pass through through Ser- well for now. Compared to other camps tries, and to make those countries re- with fear and fences but in the best tra- fingerprints… do whatever they need bia. in other countries like Serbia and Mace- sponsible for processing their claims, dition of the values it purports to hold to do to separate us out because we are Since the beginning of the year, donia, this is one of the better camps in could create human bottlenecks. dear,” he concluded. not terrorists… we just want to start a 436,000 have been registered in Serbia, terms of conditions,” Tea Vidović, from The NGO Human Rights Watch says new life,” he said. the majority entering the country at the the Centre for Peace Studies, which the EU’s plan will trap refugees in coun- Marija Ristić, Saša Dragojlo, Sven He said he was well acquainted with southern town of Preševo near the bor- is dealing with the refugee crisis, told tries that lack the capacity to receive Milekić, Siniša Jakov Marusić, Natalia ISIS because they have a base in his der with Macedonia. BIRN. and process them properly. Zaba contributed to this text 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Belgrade Presents for through the Locals puzzled by eyes of a Gen Y city’s poorest Making friends is a lot like dating. The children mystery ‘love wall’ only difference is that being friend- in sweatpants and an old white T-shirt zoned is a good thing. Down Hilandarska that had turned grey, opened the door, holding a phone in one hand and a lit Street is a building cigarette in the other. Emma KRSTIĆ unflustered café where the music The apartment was a contrast to the is good, the décor features a lot of whose decorated first one, much like the outer wall was ast week I decided to take wood and steel, the staff are super to the inner one. a flick through an online friendly, and the coffee is delicious walls divide forum for networking – something you may have noticed Cardboard boxes and cables hung (ahem, Tinder) and got is quite hard to find in Belgrade. Not residents, stirring from the closet inside the apartment. chatting to a rather nice too far away, in central Dorcol, you’ll “Come in,” the man mumbled while Lfellow, who, it turns out, is also an find Supermarket (Višnjićeva 10), an continuing his conversation on the up a debate about expat and relatively new to the city. uber trendy concept store that is a phone. combination of gallery, retailer and whether it is art or Inside his living room, toys, old radios After some back-and-forth banter restaurant - and would not be out and pictures raised suspicions that this we agreed to meet up. With his of place in Stockholm, London or vandalism. man might be the secret artist. “I have friends. Yes, before we'd even met I'd Amsterdam. no idea who you are dude,” he said. been friend-zoned. But, when you're “You could be an assassin and my new to a city, it's the one time being For something quirkier, Blaznavac neighbours would just point you out to placed in that category is a positive Kafe-Bar (Kneginje Ljubice 18) is my apartment,” he added. thing. And having become accus- an extremely colourful and kitsch Filip He did not seem very excited about tomed to the hospitable, helpful venue with plenty of character. Its AVRAMOVIĆ and welcoming spirit of Belgrade, I old pedal-powered sewing ma- whether people think he is the artist assessed such a rendezvous as low chines that now serve as tables are seemingly regular that some love and some hate. risk. likely its most charming feature, but old building, with “That’s not me, man. I have nothing to plastered across the walls you’ll also barred windows on do with that wall. I know a guy who had Walking home after the 'group date' see an eclectic mix of signs, posters the ground floor and some connections with it but it was in it struck me that I've become a hypo- and paintings. With its high ceilings a locked front door, the beginning. Now he doesn’t do that crite. As someone who has always and patio-style seating, the conserv- does not draw much anymore, but I think kids passing by been somewhat skeptical about the atory-like area at one end of the bar Aattention until you take a look at the leave stuff on the walls,” the man said, online dating world, I'd suddenly has a particularly nice atmosphere. outer wall, decorated with what some lighting another cigarette. become a convert. But, for platonic say is junk, while others call it art. “I think people leave things that purposes. If you’re around Savamala, known The capital’s most deprived children will get New Year’s gifts. Photo: Flickr/Jessica Lucia Bottle caps, coat hangers, perfume give them nice memories and they for its bar scene, KC Grad (Braće bottles, concert tickets and other dis- want to share them with the world,” Since arriving in Belgrade I’ve found Krsmanović 4) is the top pick. This it extremely easy to connect with warehouse-cum-culture space About a Filip AVRAMOVIĆ greeting cards prepared by children in carded items sit on the wall, making it he added. locals, fellow expats and travel- attracts a laidback crowd and the Belgrade’s preschool institutions and kin- resemble a museum to the homeless. “I don’t leave stuff there, even though lers through online communities. venue often plays host to exhibi- p to 1,000 children of the capi- dergartens. While most passers-by wonder what some people are convinced I do,” the Couchsurfing, which runs a weekly tions, film screenings, music perfor- thousand tal’s most socially deprived The gifts were prepared jointly by the the point of it is, the wall has attracted man added, probably thinking about meet up for its members in the city, mances and culinary experiences. families will get New Year pre- City of Belgrade as well as several com- much journalistic coverage. his relatives from across the hall. While most passers-by wonder what the point of it is, the wall has attracted much journalistic coverage. Photo: BIRN/Filip Avramović deprived kids th has been my main socialising tool, (Note: It has a great courtyard, too). Usents on December 11 as part panies and banks operating in Serbia. Some media reported that it all start- “I know they sent you here and that as well as Facebook, where I’ve been of the City of Belgrade’s traditional event Belgrade Mayor Siniša Mali called on ed three years ago, when one of the As I tried to gain access to the build- After a few knocks at the first apart- “I don’t think it’s only homeless peo- they told you I was the one decorating put in touch with friends of friends Also in the vicinity, hidden along are in line for held since 2009. other companies to help disadvantaged residents found a gift of a small figure ing, a voice over the intercom told me I ment of the floor, an old lady dressed in ple leaving stuff there. There’s a lot of the wall, but trust me, I only pick up the living here. And everyone is all too the ‘small staircase’ beside Brankov Packets are designed for kids aged children and their families. from his ex-girlfriend in the mail box. In could go inside. black opened the door. “Welcome!” she young people leaving things there as stuff that falls down,” he continued. happy to welcome in a new face. bridge, is Jazz Basta (Male stepen- ‘New Year's three to six. A New Year's show will also “The more money we have, the more the days to come, the man found many “That’s all junk. Go to the first floor, greeted me with a smile, inviting me in. they pass by. The wall inside is a greater “I know you need a story but I can’t ice), which you could easily miss be held following delivery of packets at gifts will be distributed and they will more of them. He then decided to “ex- knock on the doors and someone will “I know why you came. Those walls mystery to me. I would like to know tell you anything more, except that it is As I've been going on quite a few if you didn’t realise it was there. Boxes,’ a gift the Sava Centre, for the children, their certainly be bigger and better,” Mali said, hibit” his gifts on the building, attracting tell you who to go to. That junk on the attract a lot of interest lately. It’s hilari- who decorates the wall inside. It has beautiful and that nobody should have friend-dates lately (‘frates’, if you I’ve been told the garden seating parents and the staff of all 17 pre-school adding that a total of 6,000 children have other passers-by to do the same. wall is idiotic,” the man said over the in- ous,” the woman said. to be someone from this building. It’s a problem about the walls. will), I’ve also found myself explor- is prime property in summer, but of the City of ing a whole host of venues ideal inside is a perfect winter venue that institutions. so far received the presents in Belgrade. That is how the building became a tercom, buzzing the door open. “Someone leaves stuff outside all nothing to get excited about, but I think “It doesn’t hurt anybody but offers for casual hangouts - no hidden feels as if you’re visiting some- The City’s Secretary for Education and The “New Year's box” has been run- “love wall” and a memorial to ex-lovers On the stairs to the first floor was a the time, probably homeless people,” that’s all bollocks,” the old man contin- you a way to express yourself, your agendas, just downright cool places one’s country home. Mismatched Belgrade, co- Child Protection, Snežana Đurić, said that ning since 2009. Local authorities have and broken relationships. more interesting-looking wall, deco- she continued while an older man also ued. grief, happiness or anything else you to lap up Belgrade's welcoming at- wooden furniture, vases filled with handing out the presents meant a lot for pledged to continue the action in the Curious about the mysterious au- rated much more than the one outside. dressed in black approached us. The woman seemed convinced that feel at the moment when you leave an titude. And it seems this city has no wild flowers and regular jazz perfor- funded by children of lower economic status. coming years. thor, I went to the downtown street to Icons, unlit candles, rubber bands, The woman described the wall as in- their relative from across the hallway item on the wall,” he went on. shortage of them. mances all set the scene. “Until this year, the New Year's boxes The “New Year’s box” is a continua- find him and take photos of this unu- toys and pictures make this wall look teresting but not necessary. was the culprit. “If I could, I would tell you every- banks and were intended solely for children with- tion of the “Magic Breakfast”, a humani- sual decoration. like an altar to some deity being wor- “I don’t get it. I don’t know why some- “You should visit the man across this thing, but I can’t,” he added as we made Tucked down a street full of dilapi- These popular hangouts provide out parental care but this year’s gifts are tarian action that was organized earlier But it seemed that nobody knew – or shiped in the old building on the out- one would do that. It’s funny to me really, apartment. He’s our relative, I think he our way to the door. dated warehouses in lower Dorcol the ideal venue to fraternize with companies. intended for children from families on this year. Around eight-and-a-half tons were reluctant to say - why those items skirts of the city centre. but I don’t get the point of it. What is it sup- will tell you much more than we can,” “They say that people leave things is Przionica (Dobračina 59), a very friends. low incomes as well,” Đurić said. of food were provided for disadvantaged had been put there and who started it. The wall appears to have been deco- posed to represent?” the woman asked. the woman said. for good luck. Who knows?” the man The presents contain sweets, toys and children in this action. The residents of the building also had rated with much greater care than the “The point? People’s memories, dear,” On the other side of the floor, a shab- asked with a smile as he closed the divided opinions about it. one outside. the woman’s father said. by-looking middle-aged man, dressed door behind me.

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Continued from page 1 Belgrade hosts world chess champs The Serbian capital will host the 40th World Chess Solving Championship as well as Serbia’s gay couples the 59th World Federation for Chess Composition congress from July 30th to August 6th, Serbia eyes windfall 2016, organisers announced on November 17th. Borislav Gađanski, from the chess in brief Belgrade face legal discrimination association, said the fact that Serbia had become the host for the 2016 championship was Same-sex the best reward for Serbia’s from Telecom sale successful chess players. “The Serbian National Team is a couples can’t regular participant and winner of medals at all international get married f one of the six offers is Telekom Srpska and the repurchase competitions. Together with good and the company of its own shares from a previous Russia, we have been one of the or form civil is sold, we would use stockholder, Greek company OTE. most important teams for four part of the money to re- Experts who oppose the sale in- decades, as our chess team with partnerships pay the expensive loans clude Mahmud Bušatlija, a consult- Gligorić, Ivkov, Matanović, Alisa and some of the strate- ant for investments. Marić and others once was,“ in Serbia – just “Igic projects,” Vujović said. He believes the company first Gađanski said, referring to the top Yugoslav chess players of Apart from the government, which needs to be restructured and pre- all time. one of the owns 58.11 per cent of the stocks, the pared for privatization. company itself owns 20 per cent and “The sale of Telekom is not in the Open-air sightseeing legal obstacles citizens of Serbia as small sharehold- public interest because the private tours prolonged ers own 14.95 per cent. Current and owner would then have a monopoly Due to the unusually warm faced by gay former employees own 6.94 per cent. in the sphere of telecommunications weather for November, round- This is the second time in four infrastructure and fixed telephony,” trips on open-air buses will people which years that the government has tried he said. run over the weekend until to sell Telekom Srbija. “The new owner would cut the nd November 22 . Organiser of prevent them In May 2011, Telekom Austria of- number of employees, increase the the panoramic sightseeing, fered 1.1 billion for 51 per cent of the prices [of fixed services] and take the BS Tours, announced daily enjoying the departures at 1pm in front of the shares but the government rejected profits out from Serbia,” he predicted. City Assembly. Tickets cost 850 the offer as it did not meet the asking Bušatlija proposed that the infra- dinars [around €7] and can be same basic price of €1.4 billion. structure for fixed services be sepa- purchased at BS Tours in Savski rights as rated and placed under the control Trg 1a Street or at the Tourist FIERCE of an independent regulatory body, Information Centre in Knez COMPETITION which would guarantee access to all Mihailova 5. Passengers will get heterosexuals. to see many important sites and ON MARKET operators under equal technical and monuments, such as the Old and financial conditions. New Royal Palaces, the National The main reason for privatization, “At least two fixed-line operators Assembly, the 25th May Museum Filip AVRAMOVIĆ as presented by the government, is must be established from the present where former Yugoslav president to secure future investment so that company to break up the monopoly Josip Broz Tito lies buried as well as many other places. erbia’s attitude towards Telekom does not fall behind its main and create a competitive environ- same-sex couples is noth- competitors in the Serbian telecom- ment,” he said. ing less than discriminatory, munications market, Telenor and Vip “On completion of the restructur- Famed market in line says Goran Miletić, Western mobile. ing and formation of the holding com- for new look Balkans programme direc- In previous years, Telekom extend- pany, each of the separate companies tor at the NGO Civil Rights ed its operations to other countries in could then be partially privatized,” Reconstruction of Kalenićeva Defenders.S Belgrade Pride took place in September 2015. Photo: Gregoire Huet the region. Bušatlija added. pijaca [market], in the heart of the Vračar district, will start by “There is no possibility for same-sex In Bosnia, the company owns 65 In his opinion, this would protect the end of the year, authorities couples to get married or enter civil part- A CASE FOR THE the European Court for Human Rights couples are faced with discrimination per cent of Telekom Srpske, Banja the public interest and prevent the announced on November 16th. nerships according to the constitution. EUROPEAN RIGHTS COURT? as well as the European Convention on every day, since the government does not Luka, and 51 per cent of the shares of permanent loss of state assets. The initiative to change the They don’t have social rights, inheritance Human Rights and Fundamental Free- recognise their rights as it does with het- mtel, based in Podgorica, Montene- The privatization of Telecom will market’s old look came in rights or even rights to visit their partners A ruling by European Court of Human doms,” she added. erosexual couples,” she added. gro. certainly put the issue of the surplus response to a petition signed by locals in Vračar earlier this in hospitals,” Miletić told BIRN. Rights in July has forced European coun- No legislation on same-sex marriages Vasic suggested that there are already In 2014, the group generated a net in the workforce in the company and year. Mayor Goran Vesić said “We are facing a total repudiation of tries to think again about the issue of has ever been brought before the Serbian several different models that Serbia could profit of 17.8 billion dinars [€148 mil- the cost of severance pay in the spot- that the City will spend up to same-sex couples in Serbia,” he added. same-sex couples wishing to marry or en- parliament. adopt if it chose to do so. lion] and grew by 13.4 per cent com- light. 400 million dinars [around The country does not even recognize ter into a legally-recognised partnership. Civil Rights Defenders has drawn up a “Some countries have recognised the pared to the previous year. Madžar said that the issue whether €3,300] on reconstruction of same-sex marriages formed in other In the ‘Oliari and Others vs. Italy’ case, draft law, but it will be a long time until it right of same-sex marriage, while others Telekom Srbija contributed to redundancy settlements, probably several markets, including the countries – although it does recognize the ECHR ruled that the absence of a le- is adopted. have opted for registered partnerships growth of the group by 16.9 billion di- well above the legal minimum, would one in Vračar. “Unfortunately, the market has been neglected same-sex marriage and partnerships gal framework recognising homosexual “We created a draft law that will be dis- or accepting the status of consensual nars [€140 million], an increase of 10.1 be paid by the state or by the investor for years...We are eager to formed by diplomats from other coun- relationships violates the right to respect cussed by 2017, when it should be passed unions, without any formal act of registra- per cent compared to 2013. might not be of crucial importance. reconstruct it,“ Vesić said, tries, Miletić said. for private and family life, as envisaged by parliament,” Miletić said. tion,” she said. The company is still the leader in "If the investor pays for the re- adding that major works are “Is that not discrimination?” he asked. by the European Convention on Human The question of political will in this Serbia in terms of the number of cus- dundancies, the price will be more expected in mid-2016. “If you want to get married in another Rights. SERBIAN GAYS socially conservative country is another tomers in fixed and mobile services, favourable for the buyer… but if it is country, you may need to bring confirma- But Milena Vasić, a legal adviser at the ‘FACING EVERYDAY matter, however. Vasić said that officials but as competition grows, its market covered by the state, it will get more Students take the plunge for free tion that you are not married in Serbia. If Lawyers’ Committee for Human Rights, DISCRIMINATION’ had been sending out troubling messages share has decreased. money from the sale to cover it,” he you say that you plan on marrying a per- YUCOM, said that the Oliari ruling “is not on the issue. In 2009, Telekom Srbija held explained. The Municipality of New son of the same sex, you might not get the legally binding on Serbia”. Serbia’s LGBT population faces numer- “[Labour, environment and social around 60 per cent of the shares of Telekom certainly needs to cut Belgrade and the Secretariat confirmation. I’ve had numerous cases “However, we can expect that the Euro- ous other problems related to basic rights, policy] minister [Aleksandar] Vulin said consumers and 50 per cent of the rev- its labour force of around 9,000, so for sport and youth are offering reported like that,” he added. pean Court for Human Rights, in a similar Vasic said. recently that ‘a law on same-sex marriage enues, compared to Telenor’s 28.7 per the issue is whether the government free swimming passes for Aleksandar Prica, the president of the case against Serbia, would make ​​a deci- “This primarily relates to the right to will never go through the government of cent of consumers and 40.5 per cent wants to transfer the cost of thou- students each working day from 1pm-2pm at the April 11th sports Rainbow association, said that local offi- sion that would oblige Serbia to regulate health insurance, property rights, as well Serbia’. It is worrying that in a democratic of revenues. sands of layoffs. centre in Pariske komune 20 cials initially refused to give someone he same-sex unions,” Vasić told BIRN. as all the rights in the wider body of legis- society, an individual who holds public In 2014, Telekom Srbija served less “It would be less costly in a politi- street. The free passes will be knew the confirmation they needed that “It should also be emphasised that the lation, like the rights to private and family office expressed his personal opinion as than 45 per cent of the consumers of Bušatlija is among those opposing the sale of Telekom. Photo: Media Centre Belgrade cal sense for the government to leave available throught November and they were not already married. constitution of Serbia guarantees human life - the right to inherit or to bury one’s being relevant to the rights of a large num- mobile services and generated 36.8 this process to the new owner - but it December. Interested students “That prevented them from getting rights guaranteed by ratified internation- partner, the right to protection from do- ber of citizens of Serbia,” she said. per cent of all revenues, while Tel- is easier for them to manage the com- remains in the state ownership, it will double its current profits to €300 mil- will not escape responsibility com- only need a student’s booklet for married abroad. After some pressure, the al treaties, which as such are directly ap- mestic violence, and the right to parent- “The decision on same-sex partnership enor’s share had grown to 33.27 per pany,” he said, insisting that privatiza- also have to invest to keep up with lion in the next three years, when the pletely, as many people would blame registration at the municipality from 8am to 8pm. For more local administration issued the confirma- plicable,” she said. hood,” she explained. is a political decision for which, unfortu- cent and 40.28 per cent in the same tion would protect the company from the competition, he said. company repays loans taken out for the state for putting them at mercy of information, contact 011/ 7850- tion, but still the pressure had to be there,” “This means that domestic courts are “Since a large number of LGBT people nately, there is not enough political will at categories. political abuse. the purchase of the Bosnian operator private investors,” Madžar warned. 785. Prica told BIRN. obliged to act according to the ruling of are already living a life together, these the moment,” she concluded. According to the company’s finan- Vladimir Vučković, a member of CUTS IN WORKFORCE cial report, in 2014, total investments the Fiscal Council, an independent INEVITABLE fell by 5.2 per cent compared to year body charged with assessing Serbian ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ before. fiscal policy, noted that Telecom is in Apart from several right-wing polit- ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” Ljubomir Madžar, an economist, the group of public companies that ical parties, the strongest opponents RESTURANT KOVAČ said that Telekom Srbija is losing the paid an unexpectedly large amount of the sale are the Telekom unions. modern ethno restaurant battle with its competitors, adding to the state budget this year. At a rally in Belgrade on November monument honouring International Brigades from Belgrade who fought in the Spanish Civil War is located in Karađorđe park that delays to the sale will make it lose “The payments of EPS, EMS and 11th attended by several thousand on Nebojša street, near the temple of St. Sava. It commemorates Serbian soldiers who joined the Second Spanish Republic further value. Telekom amounted to 22 billion di- workers and citizens, demonstrators in the fight against the Spanish Falangist forces – led by General Francisco Franco, who was assisted by German and Italian forces - between 1936 and 1939. “They [the brigades] were beautiful examples of international solidarity and proletarian “Even if the profits are directed into nars [€183 million], and these were called on the government to scrap the internationalism,” it is written on the monument. International Brigades were made up of around 35,000 volunteers from a investments and not into the [state] unexpected payments to the budget, privatization process, arguing that the claimedA “53 nations”, although no more than 20,000 were active at any given time. Around 1,700 people from Yugoslavia joined the Brigades budget, there is still a risk of mis- so the question is whether the state sale would reduce investments and and around 800 of them lost their lives in Spain. The monument was erected to mark the 20th anniversary of the forming of the Brigades. spending the money,” he said. should take the money,” Vučković services, cause an outflow of profit, "Experience teaches us that po- told a conference in Aranđelovac on while the selling price will not be real- litically appointed management is November 11th. istic due to the economic crisis. Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343

Hidden Belgrade www.restorankovac.com prone to spending money because it Whether Telekom is privatized or They also believe Telekom could 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 9 DAYTON 20 YEARS ON NEIGHBOURDHOOD SPOTLIGHT

Continued from page 1 Bosnians pessimistic COMMENT New about peace deal’s legacy The EU’s responsibility Belgrade, failure in from swamp Bosnia Two decades after the Dayton Peace to city Agreement ended the 1992-95 war, Bosnia and Herzegovina presents risks Yugoslav history and the hidden that the European Union would rather beauty of 20-storey tower blocks avoid than confront. make New Belgrade worth a visit.

Kurt BASSUENER Force it succeeded 11 years ago. Capa- bility to even secure Sarajevo Inter- he Dayton Peace Agree- national Airport is widely questioned Nadia PANTEL The very first blocks, which were built ment’s 20th anniversary is by the Western military professionals in the 1940s, were actually constructed upon us, and ensuring a I interviewed; some even doubted nless you are a lover of by volunteers, using not much more than safe and secure environ- the ability to defend its own base in concrete, you prob- their hands. The promise of a new, social- ment – the focus of Annex Sarajevo's suburb of Butmir itself, if ably haven’t thought of ist Yugoslav state motivated villagers T1 of the agreement – is a sine qua non of challenged. visiting New Belgrade and students alike to sweat away on the progress in Bosnia and Herzegovina. EUFOR’s own polling from a year for a relaxing Sunday constructions sites of New Belgrade. They Yet this gets short shrift in the Euro- ago, obtained by the author, demon- afternoon. But it’s time were rewarded with the flats they were pean Commission’s new model Report strates the effect of this policy of re- to change your mind and head over to the constructing. on Bosnia and Herzegovina, which treat from hard security: the reduction U other side of the river. But New Belgrade is not just a symbol was published only two weeks short of of the sense of public security. Seventy Not only during the night to drink and of former Yugoslav president Josip Broz Dayton's anniversary. The report’s an- per cent of those polled described nex - where the context of EU engage- the security situation in Bosnia and dance on the party boats, but during the Tito’s willpower, it is also a symbol of the ment is explained more fully - perhaps Herzegovina as “fragile, instable (sic), day when New Belgrade offers you a free implosion of the Yugoslav dream. gives a clue as to why this is so. or critical.” There are ample reasons lesson in Yugoslav history and everyday There are many small, grass-covered The annex dutifully repeats the for this perception of insecurity, as my anarchy. It is a perfect place to see what hills that at first glance offer not much boilerplate (though dubious) assertion colleagues and I demonstrate in our happens, when big visions, set in steel more than a good opportunity for a nice that “EUFOR retained its deterrence security study series and numerous and concrete, meet basic human needs. view. But in fact they are a reminder of the capacity to support a safe and secure other writings. Bosnia and Herzego- It is a study-ground for the Serbian art of militarism that dominated that era. The environment.” But a more telling vina is in the midst of a deterrence improvisation. Here people have been little hills, as harmless as they may appear, reflection comes in the summary failure. growing vegetables and flowers in front of were bunkers. And not far from what is to- Slobodan Milosevic, Franjo Tudjman and Alija Izetbegovic sign the peace deal. Photo: Wikicommons explanation of the country’s structure The EC’s 2015 Report on Bosnia their blocks, long before there was a trend day called the Palace of Serbia – formerly of governance and the Dayton Peace and Herzegovina, which was finally called ‘Urban Gardening’. the Palace of the Federation - you will find he negative side Yet only few kilometres to the west, should direct its programmes to where Agreement. released on November 10th, is shot Inhabitants have used creativity and a ruin that serves as the perfect illustration of this agreement in the sector of Mostar dominated by they are really needed. We all have to The report refers to the interna- through with the underlying contra- hammers to shape the concrete structures of the beginning of the end of Yugoslavia. was that it has Croats, views on the failures of Dayton coordinate this in an integrated way," tional Office of the High Representa- diction in the EU’s policy. The report to their wishes. Windows have appeared, A few bushes and trees cover the site of tive (OHR) simply as “an international divided the coun- and Bosnia and Herzegovina's future Atijas said. repeatedly points out the problems of where none where planned. A mini- what was supposed to become the new presence under UN auspices,” and try into [political] were quite different. meeting acquis obligations stemming football stadium is hiding in between the home of the Museum of the Revolution of then jumps immediately to the Peace entities and the According to Marko, a 20-year-old IS BOSNIA AND from the Dayton structure of the state, blocks. A colourful dog shelter has been Yugoslav Nations and Ethnic Minorities. Implementation Council’s objectives Brčko"T district, therefore confirming the law student at the Croatian Univer- HERZEGOVINA DOOMED? but remains agnostic as to how to put together in a quiet courtyard. And Now there is nothing but seven massive and conditions for the OHR’s closure resolve these issues. division of territories and the separa- sity of Mostar, the biggest failure of the the Park of Friendship, not far from the red steel pillars, each a good ten metres – with not a word about the High It doesn’t advocate – or even tion of people," she said. peace agreement was that it has al- In the country’s Serb-led entity of river side, is a perfect place for picking high. The Museum had been set to open in Representative’s role as final authority intimate an interest in – a wider Karamatić argued that this also lowed Croats, as the smallest of Bosnia's Republika Srpska, local leaders have mushrooms. 1981 but was never finished. In a country for the interpretation and enforcement functional reform of governance in helped to ensure that nationalists re- three constituent ethnic groups, to be repeatedly sought to challenge state- The high-rise blocks, the run-down suffering from the beginning of a massive of the Dayton Peace Agreement. Bosnia and Herzegovina to enable it Construction work in New Belgrade in 1978. Photo: Flickr/Nick mained in power. outvoted by any or both of the other level authority and suggested that they façades and the huge number of people financial crisis, and a federation in which As I scrawled in anger on my hard to serve its citizens better. And in its “The agreement has allowed nation- two ethnic groups, Bosniaks and Serbs. might secede. sharing limited living space can remind members were starting to seek independ- copy, “nothing about its purpose?! It’s policies, it frowns on enforcing the alistic political forces - the most de- "The [Dayton] accord can provide Nenad, a Serb from Prijedor in Re- just here in your space?” The power of admittedly deficient and problematic the visitor of Paris or Berlin, where work- ence instead of unity, enthusiasm for a structive seen on European soil since nothing positive for Bosnia and Her- publika Srpska, suggested that Bosnia the OHR to enforce Dayton obligations Dayton rules. So effectively now there ers and immigrants have been pushed to project commemorating an old revolution World War Two - to rule over this coun- zegovina at the end of the day, until it and Herzegovina was doomed as a uni- is not mentioned. are no rules. the city’s outskirts to live in blocks, areas was rather low. try for the next 300 years," he said. is completely changed or totally an- tary state unless local politicians find To my mind, this cursory descrip- In only the most recent example, where crime is high and income is low. In comparison with the old centre But for Nenad, a 29-year-old Serb nulled. Because with this kind of the some kind of compromise without in- tion, taken together with the (long- the EU’s effort to maintain the self- New Belgradetells a different story of Belgrade the low number of cafes in resident of Prijedor, the biggest flaw of agreement, Bosnia and Herzegovina ternational meddling. established) weasel-worded reconfigu- generated “momentum” of its reform though. The houses are similar, the New Belgrade is striking. It is yet again a the Dayton agreement was that it never cannot be integrated into NATO, EU or "Bosnia and Herzegovina, as it is now, ration of the EUFOR mandate, conveys agenda, the temptation will be to find a atmosphere is not. Unlike in Paris, it was reminder of how fast the city was built and represented a true and lasting compro- any other worldwide organisation," he has no future. But since no one feels like brilliantly the mentality with which face-saving solution for the President not planned as a social housing project, how little private leisure time mattered in mise between the competing interests said. fighting any more, it has to exist in this the EU has been approaching Bosnia of Bosnia's Serb-dominated entity of creating a kind of ghetto for the poor. It the eyes of the Socialist Party. But since of the country’s Bosniaks, Croats and Karamatić, like many others people or some other form," he said. and Herzegovina – and its internation- Republika Srpska, Milorad Dodik’s was planned as new city, in which people distances in New Belgrade are massive Serbs. in Bosniak and Croat-dominated parts But it’s doubtful that there is enough al partners in Bosnia and Herzegovina challenge to the legitimacy of the state from all social backgrounds would live and after all the walking a break will be "The Dayton agreement is practically of the country, believes that the inter- will in society and among the country’s – for some time. judiciary – and the international actors together. A socialist utopia, of course, but needed. A good place for that could be dysfunctional because none of the national community should intervene feuding politicians to make the neces- It seeks primacy. But it doesn’t want who fostered its development. If, as one that actually seems to have worked Cafe Blink, not far from the Genex Tower. three sides have fully accepted its pro- to set things right. sary progress, suggested Amra Kazić, a the responsibility that this primacy I fear, this low road is taken – giving out. It remains a popular area of Belgrade. They make a Plazma-Shake so thick that it entails. Dayton enforcement, however, visions," he said. "None of the parties that have been biologist from Sarajevo. Dodik something – it will only dig the While Belgrade Waterfront – a giant is impossible to drink it through a straw. is an international responsibility. This ruling [in Bosnia] since the end of the "I'm not very optimistic about this. hole deeper and further diminish Arab-backed city reconstruction plan - is Hyperactive from all the sugar, you is an ill-fit with the EU’s enlargement WHO IS TO BLAME 1992-95 war has left the impression In Bosnia and Herzegovina we simply international credibility in Bosnia and approaching the city with colourful ban- might have time to take a closer look at the approach, in which the onus is on the that they want this state to be a proper don't have enough people who could Herzegovina. ners promising glittering sky-scrapers, it 115m high Genex Tower. Most know the two applicant. There were also on differing views state. And that is the biggest problem," create a critical mass for change," said Bosnia and Herzegovina today is far should be remembered that it’s not the huge skyscrapers, connected by a bridge, But instead of accepting the need better off than it was in 1995 when the about who to blame for the failures of Karamatić said. Kazić. first time Belgrade undertook a massive high above the ground, only from their way to accommodate the differentiation Dayton Agreement was signed. But far Dayton. While all those interviewed "Everybody is only saying that they Whether there is the will or not, the urban project. Only last time everything to the airport. But when you actually stand of roles in Bosnia and Herzegovina - more telling is the arc of progress, stall- suggested that the US and the rest of want to have Bosnia and Herzegovina, Dayton agreement that ended the was a little more transparent in its plan- in front of it, you see all the details that perhaps accepting that the US should ing, and now regression since then – it the international community had a ma- but simply, in practice, nobody wants war is now obsolete 20 years on, and ning and possibly a little more thorough in make the building even more bizarre. hold the reins of the hard-power is worse off in many ways than it was jor responsibility, others also said that Bosnia and Herzegovina. With this kind needs to be updated to ensure that the its implementation. The 40-year-old murals of birds and instruments the EU eschews - the EU ten years ago. of politicians ... there is no way it can local leaders were partly at fault. country can emerge from stagnation, has consistently conveyed its disdain Even with the EUFOR mandate A white stone near the Museum of Mod- angel-like figures all around its ground Emina, a 41-year-old saleswoman survive as a state under these circum- argued Marko Divković, a journalist for enforcement and worked overtime extension, as Bosnia and Herzegovina ern Art recalls the beginnings of New Bel- floor. The little concrete-spikes that are from the eastern, mainly Bosniak part stances," he added. from Tuzla. to hollow-out Dayton’s enforcement enters its 21st post-war year, its security grade: Construction works started on April somewhat playfully covering the side- th of Mostar, said both local and interna- In the Serb-dominated town of "From the distance of the last 20 tools: the OHR and EUFOR. is less ensured than at any time since 11 , 1948. At this time the left bank of the windows. And the little UFO-like circle, tional politicians had not taken ordi- Doboj, local activist Dario Atijas said the years, Dayton is nothing else but a re- Despite its mandate having just the war. EU spin and evasion can’t Sava was still basically part swamp, and that sits on top of the building. When the nary people’s interests into account. only way forward was if all sectors of dundant political and legal creation been renewed by the UN Security change that – only a policy shift can. part wasteland with the odd sand dunes. tower was built in 1977 the UFO was actu- "They care only for themselves and Bosnian society and the international that needs to be revised as soon as pos- Council, at just 600 troops and with It was great for wild pigs, rabbits and deer. ally meant to be a revolving restaurant. their positions and do not pay atten- community work together. sible," insisted Divković. no operational helicopter lift, EUFOR Kurt Bassuener is co-founder and It was less great for people. But within ten tion to how people live. They have de- "We all have to wake up, the public "A system in which some of its parts is now a shadow of its former self, and Senior Associate of the Democratization years the swamps where replaced by a stroyed anything that was good," she sector and non-governmental sector, are holding back is a system that can- far smaller than the NATO Stabilization Policy Council. He lives in Sarajevo. city that today more than 200,000 people Nadia Pantel is a reporter for Germany’s said. while the international community not go forward," he said. call home. Suddeutsche Zeitung. New Belgrade today. Photo: Beta 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 11 ARTS HEALTH AND FAMILY

Vizualizator Opera, Ballet features and Classical Pulitzer-winning Top Serbian comics th photographer FRIDAY NOVEMBER 20 Child Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra with This year's Vizualizator Fes- Catherine Larsen-Maguire – conductor , Ilija M. Arts in brief Arts in brief stage Monty Python’s and Miroslav Pavlović – violin tival, an eight-day photog- Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, raphy festival that runs until 8pm sex abuse November 26th, will feature Students of violin, Music Academy, Rakovica Cultural Centre, Miška Kranjca many different events or- Spamalot 7, 8pm ganised around the city. One st of the most interesting will SATURDAY NOVEMBER 21 findings be a photography workshop Ballet: Who’s That Singing over There, with the New York-based, The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm New Symphony Orchestra Makris, Ilija Pulitzer Prize-winning pho- Monty Python’s M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg tographer Edward Keating. 5, 8pm alarm Ana Kaličanin – flute, Mihajlo Some of his photography Spamalot finally Radivojević – fagot, Guarnerius, Džordža will also be on display. For Vašingtona 12, 8pm a full list of events, check nd comes to the SUNDAY NOVEMBER 22 out the festival's Facebook Serbia page: www.facebook.com/ Opera premiere: Othello, The National Serbian capital, Theatre, Francuska 1, 7pm festivalvizualizator Rocher String Quartet, Ilija M. Kolarac to the delight Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am Experts called for action after new Norwegian MONDAY NOVEMBER 23rd films at KC Grad of the musical’s Vojvodina Symphonic Orchestra, Ilija research suggested that the sexual abuse M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg During November and many fans. 5, 8pm of schoolchildren in Serbia is more December, KC Grad will be Minja Marčetić – flute, Dragana Raić - piano, Belgrade Cultural Centre, Trg screening a range of con- Republike 5, 8pm widespread than previously believed. temporary films from Nor- Marija Timotijević – piano, Belgrade David GALIĆ Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 9pm Four out of five children who suffered sexual violence are girls, while one was a boy, the survey said. Photo: Flickr/ Phil Roeder way, as part of the cultural centre’s special year-long TUESDAY NOVEMBER 24th ut together with direc- our children in every thing is to involve as many institutions those who commit such acts can be help of the Women’s Parliamentary According to experts from the Incest programme featuring films tor Radoslav Milenković An Evening of Ballet and Fashion, The school class have suffered as necessary to address the problem. prosecuted. Children also have to feel Network. Trauma Centre, the most effective solu- from different countries. National Theatre, Francuska 1, 8pm at the helm, the Serbian from some form of sexual “The figures are really scary and they comfortable in admitting [they were The survey revealed that when chil- tion would be to introduce sex education The Norwegian programme version of the famous WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 25th violence, while four more call for a very serious intersectoral co- sexually assaulted],” Filipovski said. dren do admit they have been sexually in both elementary and high schools. starts on Sunday, November Monty Python musical know someone who has operation among institutions,” Filipo- The strategy, which to be implement- abused, more than half of the people “There is no efficient prevention of nd Opera: Othello, The National Theatre, 22 with the movie Pioneer. satire Spamalot will fea- Fbeen a victim, according to the Na- vski said. ed in the coming months, is based on they tell don’t do anything about it, the sexual abuse of children unless we Francuska 1, 7pm On Sunday, November 29th Pture some of the country's best known tional Strategy on the Sexual Abuse of She added that the strategy envisag- the testimonies of 2,053 children aged while only seven per cent report the put texts [in schoolbooks] on how to you can watch Kon-Tiki at comedy actors. THURSDAY NOVEMBER 26th Children, which was presented to the es that schoolchildren talk more to psy- 10-18 from 97 primary and secondary case to the authorities. recognise sexual abuse and how to pro- th 6pm. As always, screen- The premiere performance will be Ballet: Giselle, The National Theatre, National Assembly on November 18 . chologists and teachers during regular schools in Serbia. The research was “Girls are targets more often [than tect such children,” the Incest Trauma ings are completely free of held in the grand hall at the Sava Centre Francuska 1, 7:30pm Dubravka Filipovski, an MP and the classes. conducted in 2014 by the Belgrade- boys] – four out of five children who Centre said. charge. on November 22nd. member of the Women’s Parliamentary “The overall aim is to include schools, based NGO Incest Trauma Centre and suffered sexual violence are girls, while There is currently no sex education FRIDAY NOVEMBER 27th For those unaware of what Spamalot Network, said that the most important parents, police and the prosecution so Serbia’s Education Ministry, with the one was a boy,” the survey said. in most Serbian schools. is, the original musical is based on the Auteur Film Nikola Đuričko, one of the main actors in the upcoming comedy. Photo: Facebook Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra legendary 1975 Monty Python and the with Fabrice Bollon – conductor and Festival returns Xavier de Maistre – harp, Ilija M. Kolarac Holy Grail film, which is a hilarious, ir- tion is not being taken lightly. Director rything else that fans of the original Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm reverent but also relevant parody of the Milenković understands that tackling production would expect. The 21st annual Auteur Film Mina Gligorić and Biljana Jovanović legend of King Arthur and the search such a legendary and award-winning And while most of the actors in- – sopranos, Guarnerius, Džordža Science fest returns with surprises Vašingtona 12, 8pm Festival will be held in Bel- for the Holy Grail. theatre production is no mean feat. Not volved have always been fans of Monty grade from November 27th The original theatre production of only in terms of scale, but in terms of Python, some are giving musicals a SATURDAY NOVEMBER 28th nder the theme “Miracles mous interactive installation will give kids th The annual to December 6 . Screen- the musical, which debuted in 2005, the importance of the message of the shot for the first time, among them ac- are Everywhere,” the 9th Sci- the chance to test out a number of differ- ings will be held at various Opera: Aida, The National Theatre, ended up winning three Tony Awards musical. tor Nikola Ðuričko, who will be playing Francuska 1, 7pm Science Festival ence Festival will be held at ent photography techniques, with a help- locations across the city, and was named the best musical of the “Monty Python is not just about hav- Sir Lancelot. Jovana Stošić – violin, Guarnerius, Belgrade Fair from Decem- ing hand from demonstrators. including at Dom Omladine, 2004-2005 season. ing a great time, it's a very deep and seri- “I've always wanted to give this genre Džordža Vašingtona 12, 8pm returns to ber 3rd-6th, promising both Hype has also been built around the Gradimir Cultural-Artistic Society, Ilija the Yugoslav Film Archive, The role of King Arthur in the Serbian ous satire. We are going to show the uni- a shot. Monty Python has been a huge entertainmentU and educational “lessons” Nao robot, which can actually feel and rec- M. Kolarac, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Belgrade, offering the Ilija M Kolarac Endow- version will be played by Nikola Kojo, versality of the story, which was timely influence on me and has shaped the to its visitors – most of whom are children. ognise emotions. It will be presented by th ment, the Parobrod Cultural who is one of Serbia's best known actors in the 1970s and is still just as meaning- way my entire generation looks at the SUNDAY NOVEMBER 29 a full programme International guests will also be making London-based Imperial College on their of the last two to three decades. The act- ful,” he told Belgrade daily Kurir. world of comedy and humour,” he said, an appearance, including USA-based neuro- inaugural visit to the festival. Centre and other venues. Ude Trio, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, of interactive Films to be screened include ing team assembled is a veritable who's The only female in the cast, Jelena adding that working on this musical Studentski Trg 5, 11am scientist and engineer Greg Gage from TED. Organisers recommend school classes who of Serbian acting talent, including Jovičić, was also responsible for translat- has been the most fun he has had as an Branko Krsmanović Academic “Visitors will have a chance to see 42 sci- visit the festival on Thursday and Friday, Nanni Moretti’s Mia Madre, Cultural-Artistic Society, Ilija M. presentations, names such as Nikola Đuričko, Srđan ing and adapting the musical to Serbia. actor in a very long time. entific exhibits, while there will be in total while families should head to the Belgrade Ines Tanović’s Our Everyday Kolarac, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Timarev, Gordan Kičić, Dejan Lutkić, She will be playing the Lady of the Lake. And while the production will have workshops and 45-50 scientific institutions participating Fair during the weekend. Life and Radu Jude’s Aferim. th Miroljub Turajlija, Ivan Marković, and No expense will be spared to make its premiere in Belgrade, they hope to MONDAY NOVEMBER 30 and around 600 demonstrators,” head of Tickets can be purchased for 450 di- For more information and scientific shows Jelena Jovičić. sure that the show lives up to its bill- bring it to many other cities around Dejan Sinadinović – piano, Belgrade the festival Ana Jovanović told the media. nars [around €3], but kids up to five years ticket sales, visit the official As for what to expect from this Ser- ing. The production will include ballet the country. Tickets are available at all Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 8pm A highlight of the three-day event will can enter the for free. More information at website: faf.rs/category/21- bian take on the story and produc- dancers, dozens of extras, a huge set Eventim ticket offices and also at the Mina Mendelson – violin and Senka aimed at school be a so-called laser harp, presented by http://festivalnauke.org/In-English2. festival-autorskog-filma Simonović – piano, Belgrade Cultural tion, one thing is for sure; the produc- production, a large live band, and eve- Sava Centre box office. Centre, Trg Republike 5, 9pm kids. Austria’s Cirkus Luminesenz. This enor- Science fest promises lots of fun for school kids. Photo: Courtesy of Science Festival

CITY GUIDE Available at: Tourist Organisation of Belgrade Knez Mihailova 5, +381 (11) 2635 622 Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732 Nikola Tesla Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 Belgrade Port, Karađorđeva APROPO Hotel Moskva Bookstore and tearoom FREE PULL OUT MAP OF BELGRADE Terazije 20, +381 11 3642 000 Cara Lazara 10 +381 11 2625839 FREE SIM CARD Hotel Excelsior Kneza Miloša 5, +381 11 3231 381 At the Belgrade Airport TOP SIGHTSEEING LOCATIONS Supermarket concept store Hudson news odlasci / departures PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP Višnjićeva 10, +381 11 2910 942 Hudson news dolasci / arrivals GUIDED TOURS THROUGH BELGRADE Hudson news čekiranje / check in Hotel Townhouse 27 Hudson news transit zona / transit WIDE SELECTION OF CLUBS, HOTELS, Maršala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 2022 900 Order online: RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND Booking Rooms Hostel Kralja Petra 30, +381 63 29 39 39 www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/ ENTERTAINMENT VALUE www.bookingrooms.rs belgrade-city-guide 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 13 WHAT’S ON ON THE SPOT

‘Delicious’ CLUBBING food with AND LIVE MUSIC Belgrade’s music gurus FRIDAY NOVEMBER 20th SATURDAY NOVEMBER 21st • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, • Nineties, Tilt, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm THURSDAY DECEMBER 3rd Karađorđeva 23, 10pm • Delaney Davidson, Grad special edition of KC Grad’s • Spartaque, Spektre Live, • Andreas Gehm, Vitanov, • IXXI, Harakiri For The Sky, Cultural Centre, Braće • R&B Thursday Delight, now renowned weekly TKNO, Andrew Miller, Izogor, Lost in the Sound, Zlosut, Vergel, Fest, Gradski Krsmanović 4, 9pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm food event, Delicious Magacin Depo, Travnička 3, 11pm Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Park 1, Zemun, 8pm • 1 on 1 Sexy & Sweet, Tilt, AMonday (or Delikatesni • Avalon, The Tube, Simina 21, Stefana 115, 11pm • Ničim Izazvan, BitefArt Café, WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 2nd Karađorđeva 2, 11pm ponedeljak) attracted dozens of Bel- th 11pm • Black Merlin, Schwabe, Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm • DJ Oysha, Industrija Bar, graders on November 16 where roles were reversed. Members of music • Brka, Homeboy, Ichisan, 20/44 boat on Sava, 11pm • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr Karađorđeva 23, 10pm website mjuznews.com were tasked Rade Banjan, Alex K, 20/44 • Olivier Giacomotto, The FRIDAY NOVEMBER 27th Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • The Frajle, Sava Centre, with preparing the French speciality, boat on Sava, 11pm Tube, Simina 21, 110pm 11pm Milentija Popovica 9, 9pm couscous, for a group of chefs who • Mile Voli Disko, Grad Cultural • The Sound Haze Season • Xosar, Tijana T, Schwabe, Jan • Rundek Cargo Trio, BItefArt • Halka Ensemble, Mikser acted as editors. Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, Opening, Dot, Francuska 6, 11pm Nemeček, Drugstore, Bulevar Café, Mitropolita Petra 8, 9pm House, Karađorđeva 46, 9pm The Mjuznews team preparing dinner. Photos: Facebook 11pm • Nobodz Home aka Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • Belgrade Lounge – Miloš Ilić, Minilogue, KPTM, Žorža • Rođendram, Sioux, Skadarska Lukai, Danijel Cehranov, Klemansoa 22, 11pm 40, 11pm Serbia’s Wats, Lomina 5, 11pm • Love Cats, DJ Goxy, DJ • Trust Me You Can Dance, • Couple Up – Dancehall Dark Energy, Plutonia Live, Drugstore Play, boat on Sava fashion week Meets Hip Hop, KPTM, Žorža Vrtoglavica, Šajkaška 15, 11pm river, 11pm Klemansoa 22, 11pm • DJs Dooshah, Goran • DJ Ike, Industrija Bar, ends with • Neki Stranac, Mee High Low, Starcevic and Danijel Karađorđeva 23, 10pm glamour BKO, Monsun, Travnička 3, Cehranov, Brankow, • Time Machine, Tilt, TRATTORIA 11pm Crnogorska 12, 11pm Karađorđeva 2, 11pm he fifth annual Serbia • Back to the Future, Plastic, • Disco House, Beton, • Holy Friday, Mr Stefan Braun, PIZZERIA Fashion Week, held in Takovska 36, 11pm Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm Novi Sad from Novem- • Trust Me You Can Dance, • Mirko and Meex, Tilt, • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Tber 9th-16th, attracted Drugstore Play, boat on Sava Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, style lovers from across the river, 11pm • House Night, Drugstore Play, 10pm Nebojsina 8 country. The show ended in spec- • Time Machine, Tilt, boat on Sava river, 11pm • Torche, Them Moose Rush, 011/3863-999 tacular fashion at Tito’s saloons Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • Saturday Night Fever, Mr Božidarac, Radoslava Grujića [email protected] at the city’s fortress, Petrovaradin, where the Serbia Fashion Awards • R&B and House Night, Beton, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 3, 8pm www.restoranamici.rs were presented to the best de- Karađorđeva 2, 11pm 11pm • Mortal Kombat, Magacin signers. Among the recipients was • Holy Friday, Mr Stefan Braun, • ‘90s, KST, Bulevar Kralja Depo, Travnička 3, 9pm Ivana Mišić, who received prizes Nemanjina 4, 11pm Aleksandra 73, 10pm • E-Play, Gun Club, Miloša for the most talented and the • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, • Stray Dogg, Dom Omladine, Pocerca 10, 9pm most promising designer. Patricia Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, Makedonska 22, 9pm • Irie FM, Monsun, Travnička 3, Blin was named most talented 10pm • ZAA, Grad Cultural Centre, 10pm Ivana Mišić receiving her award. Photo: Facebook European fashion designer. Patricia Blin receiving her award. Photo: Facebook • Krug – Tribute to EKV, Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm • Presing, The Imigrants, Cross Božidarac, Radoslava Grujića • JIG- EKV Tribute, Akademija Breeze, Grad Cultural Centre, 3, 8pm 28, Nemanjina 28, 10pm Braće Krsmanovic 4, 10pm • Boris Kovač and New • Jovan Maljoković, Akademija Female Ritual Group, Mikser House, SUNDAY NOVEMBER 22nd 28, Nemanjina 28, 10pm Karađorđeva 46, 9pm conductor • Stuttgart Online, Transeen, • R&B Night, Cinema, SATURDAY NOVEMBER 28th welcomed in DTA, Gun Club, Milosa Pocerca Gračanička 18, 11pm KOLARAC 10, 9pm • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan • Lucky Showcase - The Advent, Belgrade • Jovan Maljoković, Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Magacin Depo, Travnička 3, Akademija 28, Nemanjina 28, • Whitesnake, Hala Pionir, 11pm PROGRAMME 10pm Čarlija Čaplina 39, 9pm • Riccobellis and Crew Live, atherine Larsen-Maguire, Sioux, Skadarska 40, 11pm a prominent London- MONDAY NOVEMBER 23rd • Saturday Night Fever, Mr born and Berlin-based Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Cconductor, will be performing together with the • Beautiful Monday, Mr. Stefan • Hip-Hop and R’n’B by Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm DJ Prema, Industrija Bar, on Friday, November 20th at Ilija M Karađorđeva 23, 10pm FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 20th WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 25th Kolarac Endowment. She had her th FREE COPY TUESDAY NOVEMBER 24 • Ladies Night, Brit’n’Bass, KST, first rehearsal with the orchestra on Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm Concert Hall, 8pm Music Gallery, 6pm November 18th. • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Braun, • Orphaned Land, Mikser Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Evgenija Jeremić, soprano Guest conductor Catherine Larsen-Maguire. Photos: Marko Đoković Cycle: For Beginners Nemanjina 4, 11pm House, Karađorđeva 46, 9pm Vladimir Gligorić, piano Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Conductor: Catherine Larsen- • Nineties Night, Tilt, • The Cyclist Conspiracy, Bicikl, Programme: List, Rachmaninov, Maguire Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Berg, Šepić, Verdi Soloist: Miroslav Pavlović, violin • Folk Orchestra RTS, Ilija Krsmanović 4, 9pm Production: Music Centre Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Programme: Prokofiev, Beethoven, M. Kolarac Endowment, • Nit, Akademija 28, Nemanjina Williams Admission free Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić Studentski Trg 5, 8pm 28, 10pm Production: Belgrade • Moro Moro Land, Wrong Philharmonic Orchestra THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 26th-27th BIRN editorial team: Way Kids, Nothing Else To SUNDAY NOVEMBER 29th SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 21st Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, Do, Mutogen, Fest, Gradski Concert Hall, 8pm Park 1, Zemun, 8pm • R&B Night, Cinema, Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Concert Hall, 8pm [email protected] Gračanička 18, 11pm Conductor: Fabrice Bollon New Symphonic Orchestra Makris WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 25th • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Braun, Soloist: Xavier de Maistre, harp Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović “Music from the New World” Programme: Bollon, Gliere, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Conductor: Predrag Gosta Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr • The Giant Sand, Dom Programme: Dvorak, Markis, Simić Janaček, Gershwin Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Omladine, Makendonska 22, Production: Belgrade [email protected] Production: New Belgrade Opera • My Baby, Cotton Pickers, Dom 9pm Philharmonic Orchestra Subscription & Distribution: Omladine, Makedonska 22, 9pm 24MONDAY, NOVEMBER 23rd MONDAY NOVEMBER 30th FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 29th Goran Knezevic THURSDAY NOVEMBER 26th Concert Hall, 8pm Vojvodina Symphony Orchestra +381 11 4030 303 • DJ Mooka, Ike and Prema, Tilt, Concert Hall, 11am Soloist: Robert Lakatoš, violin • R&B Thursday Delight, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm Trio Uhde [email protected] Soloists: Michael Uhde, piano Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm • Beautiful Monday, Mr. Stefan TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 24th Katarina Uhde, violin Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. • Get Ready For Vandalism, Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Underground, Pariska 1, 11pm Concert Hall, 8pm Sanja Božena Uhde-Mitrović, cello ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight • One on One – Sexy and Sweet, TUESDAY DECEMBER 1st RTS National Orchestra Production: Music Centre Programme: RTS Music Production Admission free COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Tilt, Karađorđeva 12, 11pm • Dj Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. Stefan • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Braun, Circulation: 4,000 Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 15 GOING OUT SPORT

KPTM, Cleo Belgrade’s dreams hidden dance of teturn to club Partizan A very off-the-beaten-track venue, this Brazilian football player Cleverson club nevertheless offers up young DJs Gabriel Cordova, known as Cleo, says he longs to return to his old club where with cheap drinks thrown in the mix. he had his ‘best moments’. David GALIĆ The name of the club is an acro- nym that stands for Kol'ko Para Tol'ko ocated on the outskirts of Muzike. Roughly translated, this means the city centre, KPTM might something along the lines of “how be of interest to you if you're much music you get depends on how looking for a slightly more much money you have”, but it basically obscure nightclub to check means something like “you can't have Lout. The club is located close to the your cake and eat it too”, or something Port of Belgrade, which is pretty much to that effect. an industrial zone with not much else The full name actually sounds like it to offer. It's also pretty difficult to get to, should be one of those modern Serbian considering that there are no real pub- tavern joints, or Kafanicas, that are usu- lic transport options. ally named using some traditional Ser- You can drive or take a taxi, but that bian saying, but thankfully most people Katai is one of the best Red Star players. Photo: Beta only takes you so far. You're going to only know it by its initials. The acronym At KPTM, DJs spin drum ‘n’ bass, hip-hop and sometimes techno. Photo: Facebook have to do some walking through some KPTM actually sounds like the name of fairly questionable terrain in order to a dance club, which is what it is. The choice of drinks is also minimal- times techno. It seems to be a place for not the majority by any stretch, as most get to the actual club. There's no real It's a very simple place. There's a istic. There are only two domestic beers younger DJs to get their chops up and Belgrade club-goers know, teenage path or sidewalk and, since it's an in- pretty basic garden area during the on tap and your regular assortment of show the audience whether they are clubbers tend to have problems hold- dustrial zone, there are large trucks go- summer, mostly decorated with graffiti spirits. Don't expect to see any wines any good or not. ing their liquor, which can sometimes ing in and out of the area fairly regularly. and recycled street art. The club itself or cocktails on the menu. But hey, the It's like a training ground for city DJs lead to a level of rowdiness and tension Red Star It can be pretty treacherous. is similarly plain. There's an entrance, drinks are cheap, so at least there's that. who hope to one day start getting calls that you won't get at clubs where the pa- Once you get to the club, you might a place to check your coat, a small hall Even though it doesn't have the mak- to spin in some of the more high-end, trons are a bit more mature. not even notice it. It pretty much looks and finally, one large club area. ings of anything remotely impressive, lucrative Belgrade clubs. But overall, it's a cool off-the-beat- like an abandoned old storage shed. There's a bar on one side and a stage KPTM is still a fun place to go out. It While it's a cool place to go and hear en-track clubbing option if you want rules out selling Cleo wants to return to Partizan. Photo: Facebook The area is dimly-lit, so the club itself on the other. There is no seating and is usually open on Friday and Satur- some younger people play music, to check out a new club to break the is actually pretty hard to spot at night. all you have in the way of tables are a day nights from 10pm to the early hours. KPTM does have a few downsides. monotony of your regular weekend Your best bet would be to go with a few barrels scattered around the dance You're mostly going to be listening One is that patrons often tend to be a haunts. leo, who also holds and became one of the best-loved friend who has already been there and floor. The bar is similarly minimal and to DJs spinning urban dance music bit younger as well, sometimes you'll KPTM players Serbian citizenship, players among Partizan fans. He knows where it is. appears to be entirely wooden. like drum 'n' bass, hip-hop and some- even see teenagers here. While they are Address: Žorža Klemansoa 22 decided not to extend was given a Serbian passport in ed Star has decided not to Apart from them, 17-year-old Luka Chis contract with Brazil- 2010, as many wanted him to play The club’s sell any of its players until the Jović is also among the most sought- ian club Atletico Paranaense and for Serbia’s national team. But that Mario Biondi Back from North Korea, qualifications for the Cham- after Red Star strikers. said he was hoping to return to never happened. steering pions League end on August The Red Star team currently leads in the Partizan football club in Belgrade. Before Partizan, he briefly Rst announces two Laibach return to Belgrade 31 2016, the club announced on No- domestic championship, with a 16-point “I didn’t extend the contract played for Partizan’s main rival, FC committee has vember 17th. advantage to the second-ranked team, because I want to change the en- Red Star, in 2008-2009. After he Belgrade shows “This is the attitude of the club’s steer- FC Borac Čačak. They are now the closest vironment. There are indications left Belgrade, Cleo went to China’s fter becoming one of slapped a veto ing committee, and all the clubs that team to making it to the Champions League it could happen [returning to Guangzhou Evergrande Taobao the only Western bands are interested in our leading players, qualifications, due in summer 2016. Partizan]. My dream is to return Football Club, where he remained nown as ‘the Italian Barry White’, Mario Biondi will be perform- ever to successfully on sales of its such as [Marko] Grujić and [Aleksandar] However, financial problems still bur- to the black and white [colours until 2014 before joining his cur- ing two intimate concerts in Belgrade next year. Biondi is play in North Korea ear- Katai, know about that condition,” den the club. of Partizan], where I had the best rent club, which he is due to leave known for his very soulful, and often sexy, sound that mixes lier this year, Slovenian players in a bid to Svetozar Mijailović, head of the club, “I hope we are close to solving our moments in my career,” Cleo said in January. jazz and soul music. He has performed with some of the great- industrialistsA Laibach will be back in told the Belgrade daily Večernje Novo- financial problems without selling play- on November 18th. Cleo has changed ten clubs in est Italian singers over the course of his career, and even sang Belgrade this December. Already very secure a place in sti. ers but it is possible that a foreign club The 30-year-old Brazilian his career, playing in Brazil, Portu- withK the late Ray Charles as the lead singer of Incognito. well known to the public, the industrial Grujić and Katai have come under the shows up… and pays a specific sum of was Partizan’s rising star in the gal, Serbia, China and Japan. He Biondi successfully introduced his music to the Belgrade audience earlier rockers have been playing Belgrade the Champions spotlight in recent months, as several money on our own conditions, mean- 2010/2011 season, when he played scored 130 goals in 305 matches. this year with his performance at the Musicology festival held over the regularly for more than a decade and top European football clubs are inter- ing that they will only get them in the the Champions League. He came BIRN contacted FC Partizan for summer at the Kalemegdan Fortress. He will be showcasing songs from his have a very dedicated following here that includes a wide spectrum of music fans. League. ested in buying them, including Milan’s summer of 2016,” Mijailović added. to the club in 2009 and stayed more information on Cleo’s pos- latest album Beyond during the March 9th and March 10th shows at the Bitef The show will be held at Mikser House on December 9th. Tickets are available from Corner Inter, London’s Chelsea and Arsenal as Red Star won the Championships for two years. In 67 games, the sible return but did not receive an Art Cafe. Tickets for both performances are currently on sale at the Bitef and Shop convenience stores and Vulkan bookstores and are currently selling at a ‘pre-sale’ price of well as Manchester United. League Cup in 1991. talented Brazilian scored 42 goals answer by the time of publication. cost €12 each. ten euros each.

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Orphaned Land perform at From Israel with Love A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO OUR PREMIUM Stray Dogg to As part of the two-day From Israel NEWS AND ANALYSIS present new album with Love festival of Israeli music at CONTENT Croatian space rockers Mikser House, heavy metal heroes Delaney Davidson IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE One of Belgrade's most promising new in Serbia again Orphaned Land will play a special brings unique voice to KC Grad for in-depth analysis, bands, folk rockers Stray Dogg, will be show in Belgrade. Even though they are investigative reports, holding a concert to promote their Internationally successful Croatian psy- on an all-acoustic European tour right Experimental New Zealand's Delaney Davidson is features, interviews, new album Come Along Wind. Playing chedelic rockers Seven That Spells will now, the Israeli band has said that they Black Metal in Zemun said to have one of the most original commentary and profiles emotional music similar to the late be back in Belgrade, playing Božidarac will be playing a regular ‘plugged’ set and enchanting voices in modern rock. on the latest business and Elliot Smith and Nick Drake, they are a on December 18th. Seven That Spells in Belgrade for the occasion. Carving If you need some darker and heavier He is best known for his work in the political headlines. breath of fresh area on the local music have a cult following in Europe, playing out an original niche in metal music, sounds this month, head over to early 2000s with Swiss band The Dead scene. Support act the Lovely Quinces some of the most prestigious experi- they play a progressive style heavily Zemun's Fest Club on November 26th. Brothers, with whom he recorded two will open the show, which is scheduled mental rock music festivals held across influenced by the traditional music of Headlining will be Swedish black metal albums before going solo. The show is st st for November 21 at Dom Omladine. the continent over the last several their homeland. The show will be held band IXXI, supported by Austrian post- on December 1 at KC Grad and tickets OTHER SERVICES: Tickets cost three euros at the door. You years. The opening act at the Belgrade on November 28th at Mikser House and black metallers Harakiri for the Sky, cost eight euros at the door. Advance can also find them for the pre-sale price show will be Pančevo-based alternative tickets cost around seven euros in pre- who have an interesting, atmospheric tickets are currently on sale at the of 500 dinars [around 4€] at all Eventim rock band By-Pass. Tickets cost three sale, while the regular price is around sound. Tickets will be available at the Pinball Wizard record store at cheaper shops. euros at the door. nine euros. door and cost three euros each. prices for a limited time only. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 20 - Thursday, December 03, 2015 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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