ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 Serbian arts policy The many [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 ‘is unconscious charms of BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 culture-cide' Valjevo

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Issue No. 231 Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: Muslims party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. decry page 10

lack of hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W mosques and June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, graveyards page 5 conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party The overnight demolition of E an illegally-built mosque has highlighted difficulties the Muslim Friday • June 13 2008 community faces in the capital. THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

Filip RUDIĆ

he conditions for "This means we have to get by, so practicing [Islam] prayer is often held on the plateau in are not too favour- front of the mosque, in hot sun or rain, able. [Bajrakli in 40 degrees or minus 20," says Edo mosque] is the only Čelebić, an analyst and news editor mosque"T in Belgrade and people can't with Al Jazeera Balkans who is in his even fit in the courtyard," says Aldina late thirties. Luinović, 27, a journalist and practicing He remembers the first time he at- Muslim who had lived in Belgrade for tended Eid al-Adha prayer at the city four years. centre's Bajrakli mosque in 2006, and With around 150,000 Muslims liv- says little has changed since. ing in the capital, according to Islamic "The day was very cold. They couldn't Community estimates, the fact there close the fountain in the mosque court- is only one mosque is the cause of the yard so the pipes wouldn't freeze. The most visible problem facing the com- water was so cold it cramped my toes," munity. Muslims are forced to pray at Čelebić says. home, at prayer houses (masjids) or on the street. Continued on page 5

Belgrade Mufti Jusufspahić called on Muslims to remain calm saying that he expects an explanation from Serbian President Aleksandar Vučić. Photo: Beta

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 3 SERBIA SERBIA Neighbours' moves towards Serbia’s Vučić plans lavish NATO test Serbia's neutrality inauguration goslav President Slobodan Milošević Serbian military refused to sign up to a peace deal on Kosovo and end his harsh crackdown experts are on rebels seeking independence. ceremony By the time Milošević eventually con- warning the ceded 78 days later, the civilian death toll from the bombing campaign was put at government in around 500 by watchdog organisations New Serbian President Aleksandar such as Human Rights Watch. Belgrade will The latest survey by the Centre for Vučić will be inaugurated at a Security Policy published on March 8th one day have showed that less than one in ten citizens ceremony in Belgrade which will to re-consider favour NATO membership, although a much larger number, one-third, favour feature performances, multimedia its doctrine continued cooperation through the Partnership for Peace program. displays, soldiers and thousands of of military Katarina Đokić, a researcher from the Centre for Security Policy, told guests, media reported. neutrality as BIRN that although maintaining mili- Vučić was sworn in in parliament on May 31st. Photos: Beta tary neutrality looks difficult, because neighbours in of the continued anti-NATO atmos- Maja ŽIVANOVIĆ Serbian regional themes, with each of the Serbian media reported this week viyenko. China will send representatives May 31st after the former prime minister phere she does not expect a change of country's regions represented. that most of the leaders from the Bal- too. and head of the ruling Serbian Progres- the Balkans join, policy. ore than 5,000 guests are "Also, digital platforms will be located kans will be present at Vučić's inaugura- Regional leaders ignored the inaugu- sive Party won 54.9 per cent of the vote in "I don't expect a serious revision expected for Vučić's in- in one part of the Palace and guests will tion, and that the presidents of Slovenia, ration of Vučić's party colleague, former the April 2nd presidential election, secur- or come closer of policy in that field. NATO is too un- auguration on June 23rd, be able to get information about Ser- Montenegro and Croatia, as well as all President Tomislav Nikolić, in 2012, be- ing a five-year term. popular in Serbia and that still influ- Mamong them 20 prime bia, and images and short films will be the members of the Bosnian presidency, cause of his controversial statements The day of his swearing-in was marked to joining, the ences the way authorities are deciding ministers and presidents, state-owned played," Blic reported, adding that each have already confirmed their attend- about Serbian relations with its neigh- by several incidents, including attacks on [this issue]," Đokić said, adding that she newspaper Večernje novosti reported on segment of the event will be sending a dif- ance. bours. journalists and activists. Western military expects continued cooperation with Monday. ferent message from the President. Večernje novosti hinted that Vučić also The event was not attended by the He was sworn in with a copy of the the NATO on a lower, less formal level. Serbian daily Blic said on Monday that Ranks of soldiers and a military band expects Hungarian Prime Minister Viktor presidents of Croatia and Slovenia, the constitution and a replica of the 12th-cen- alliance. Serbian President Aleksandar Vučić because of the large number of guests ex- will also take part in the ceremony. Orban and Macedonian President Gjorge Bosniak member of Bosnia's tripartite tury Miroslav Gospel - one of the oldest on May 29th reiterated that while EU pected, the ceremony will not be held at the One part of the inauguration event Ivanov. presidency, Bakir Izetbegović, or by the surviving documents in Old Church Sla- Maja ŽIVANOVIĆ membership is a very important goal presidency as planned, but at the Palace of will be organized in front of the building, It said the EU will probably be repre- Macedonian president. vonic, listed on UNESCO's Memory of the for Serbia, Serbia does not intend to en- Serbia, which was the seat of government according to Blic, so Vučić can "show his sented by Enlargement Commissioner Ivica Dačić, then Interior Minister and World Register. ter NATO. of the former Federal Republic of Yugosla- openness to people and the world". Johannes Hahn, while Russia is sending head of the junior ruling coalition part- The day was also marked by a gather- oreign policy analyst Boško "I was at a NATO meeting and I said via, where Josip Broz Tito had his office. Only Serbian food will be on Vučić's the speaker of the upper house of par- ner, the Socialist Party, said this was "an ing of a large number of members of the Jakšić said that Serbia's we don't have that aspiration ... Our in- It added that the rooms at the Palace inauguration menu Večernje novosti re- liament, one of the closest associates of insult to Serbia". Progressive Party and an opposition pro- military neutrality was al- tention is [still] to be militarily neutral; of Serbia will be decorated according to ported. President Vladimir Putin, Valentina Mat- Vučić was sworn in in parliament on test later on. ways a somewhat problem- we want to be out of any military blocs," atic concept because "while Vučić said on Pink television. FSwitzerland and Austria are [generally] Only a few small political parties in recognized by other countries [as neu- Serbia are pro-NATO, such as the Lib- tral], Serbia's [neutrality] is not recog- eral Democratic Party and the regional nized," Jakšić told BIRN. League of Social Democrats of Vojvo- The majority of Balkan states in Ser- dina. bia's vicinity are now already members However, some believe the current Aleksandar Vučić said on May 29th that Serbia does not intend to enter NATO. Photo: Serbian Military of NATO - Romania, Bulgaria, Albania, position will be hard to maintain. The Croatia and - most recently - Montene- Local realities are shifting. Macedo- Military expert Aleksandar Radić NATO states, Serbia also holds joint secretary of the Security Committee gro. nia's new Social Democrat Prime Min- told Beta news agency on June 5th that military exercise with Russia's military. of the opposition Democratic Party, The fall of the nationalist govern- ister, Zoran Zaev, on May 12th met NATO as both Bosnia and Macedonia adopt According to the Belgrade Centre for retired captain Nikola Lunić, told BIRN ment in Macedonia has meanwhile Secretary-General Jens Stoltenberg increasingly pro-NATO stances, Serbia Security Policy, a think tank, the major- that after Montenegro joined up - and brought to power a more pro-NATO ad- and discussed the possibility of remov- may have to re-think its neutrality, not ity of the population in Serbia remains amid indications that Bosnia and Mac- ministration. ing the remaining obstacles on Mac- least because many Serbs - in Montene- firmly against NATO membership edonia could join NATO - Serbia will "Our proclaimed military neutral- edonia's NATO accession. gro for example - now live in NATO states. - partly because of the negative senti- have to review geopolitical realities. ity is only creating problems because One week earlier, Montenegrin While maintaining its constitutional- ments left over from NATO's air cam- "Any arguments on the possible it [Serbia] doesn't have that status, Prime Minister Duško Marković offi- ly guaranteed equal distance between paign in the late 1990s, which forced closer cooperation with NATO should which is only causing suspiciousness cially handed over the NATO accession the US and Russia, since 2006 Serbia Serbia out of Kosovo, which then de- be based on national interests and on all sides," Jakšić said, adding that document at a ceremony in Washing- has in fact been participating in NATO's clared independence in 2008. through public debate, rather than on the evolving situation in the region is ton, after which his small Adriatic re- Partners for Peace, PfP, programme. NATO launched air strikes in Serbia national emotions," Lunić told BIRN, further undermining the idea of contin- public became the 29th member of the Besides bilateral military coopera- on March 24th, 1999, without the back- concluding that military neutrality is ued neutrality. club. tion with NATO and with individual ing of the UN Security Council, after Yu- not sustainable in the long term.

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OTHER SERVICES: 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE Slavija Continued from page 1 fountain – a Muslims decry lack of 21st Century mosques and graveyards

e ended up praying on the icon for MITAR PETROVIĆ NENAD VASIĆ DRINA stairs between the first and second floor of the nearby "I think that it is better than "My opinion is a little "It is nice. The city needs Islamic Community build- it was before. But still, the divided. On the one hand something like this be- ing. Belgrade? biggest problem of Slavija I think it is beautiful, as cause we are moving for- HBefore the call to prayer at the Bajrakli square is not solved - it should be given all the ward. The only thing that mosque, hundreds of believers queue such as pedestrians who money that was invested sometimes disappoints in front of the small toilet at the nearby One of Belgrade´s busiest interfere with the traffic. As in it. As far as I can see from me is that the pensions are Islamic Community of Serbia headquar- long as no underground here, I see that everybody low. And I know how much ters to perform ritual ablutions before roundabouts is now home to a giant, passages or gangways are is really intrigued by it. It money they spent on this. prayer because they cannot all squeeze made to relocate pedestri- looks really impressive. The money is not spent into the mosque's courtyard. musical fountain – a development ans - they have done little. But it would be like every in vain, it makes the city The mosque's imam, Ramadan Me- most Belgraders have an opinion on. It will be good in summer novelty. I think that people look more beautiful, but I hmedi, says: "Right now they [believers] because it reduces the air will soon easily forget the am disappointed since we perform abdest (ablutions) at two sinks temperature and Slavija existence of this fountain… don´t have enough money. next to the toilet seat [in the Islamic Com- is baking [at this time of On the other hand, I think That is the only reason. I munity building]." year]. The music is kitsch the money could have work until eight o'clock, I Belgrade Mufti Mustafa Jusufspahić but basically it is nicer than been invested in some haven't seen it when they told BIRN the lack of mosques and facili- I thought it would be. It is better things - in health put on the lights, I only saw ties is unduly complicating the lives of the interesting. It's prettier than facilities or we also have a that on television. I am city's Muslim population. it was – as it used to be a problem with kindergar- not saying that it isn't nice, "We have only one mosque with a bust of Dimitrije Tucović [a tens… but as our great poet it is beautiful, and we are minaret and 17 [Belgrade] municipalities prominent campaigner for Ljubivoje Ršumović said: advancing, this is global. All where Muslims live. It is not easy to send worker's rights]. Now it is ‘A homeland is defended of that is great, but we also your child from [far off neighbourhoods better." with beauty.'" need to have money." like] Zemun Polje or Sremčica, for exam- ple, to get religious education [in the city centre]."

MOSQUE DEMOLISHED OVERNIGHT

Anger over conditions for Muslims has worsened considerably after the contro- versial overnight demolition of an illegal- Slavija fountain. Photo: Beoinfo ly-built mosque in the Belgrade suburb of Siri SOLLIE euros, it has certainly managed to attract Zemun Polje on May 26th – the day before the attention of the city´s residents and the start of the holy month of Ramadan. t is difficult not to notice the city's has become the new hot spot in town. "Am I supposed to pray in the street to new musical fountain, which most The fountain ‘sings' from 9 to 11 in the show what a ‘cosmopolitan' city Belgrade IBelgraders seem to be talking about mornings and from 8 to 10 on weekday MILICA JAKŠIĆ TADJANA KOSTIĆ ŽIVORAD SKADRIĆ is?" Mufti Jusufspahić said at a press con- lately. evenings. On the weekends, music is ference the day after the demolition. The Slavija intersection fountain is the played from 9am to 12 noon and from 6 "In general, in my opinion, "I think it is very nice, "It is nice, attractive. But at this moment, "They demolished it under the pretext biggest in Southeast Europe to date. Thir- to 10pm. it looks nice during the but unnecessary. it is really expensive. It cost around two it was illegal, when every building around ty-two metres in diameter with 350 water It is now common to see Belgraders day when it is silent. How The money could be million euros, is that the priority of the here is illegal. We sought to make it legal," jets and 800 metres of water surface, the standing around Slavija at these times, it looks at night, I do not used in a much better city to have such a fountain? I agree, it Emin Zejnulahu, Mufti of Srem County, an The municipal authorities of Zemun Polje demolished the mosque, saying it had been built without a permit. Photo: BIRN/Filip Rudić ‘singing fountain' has attracted both fury waiting for the fountain to ‘sing'. The mu- know. I've heard that it way. It is beautiful, is nice, but are there other priorities? area in the north of Serbia to which the and acclaim. sic played has so far included Michael is making a lot of noise. but many people Maybe there are. The music is alright. mosque belonged, told BIRN. ble standards times each day as University of Bel- "This act [the demolition] deserves On June 5th, the fountain´s first day in Jackson's classics Billie Jean and Beat It These are comments of are more in need of It is music from the teenage days of Zejnulahu says he was taken in by po- applied to Mus- The authorities grade campuses lack prayer rooms and the sharpest condemnation and sheds operation, city manager Goran Vesić an- and Đorđe Marijanović´s classic Serbian some people, I do not money. This is my my parents and in the middle it plays lice after the demolition in order to make lims in Serbia. that the food in university refectories light on Belgrade Muslims' extremely nounced it would be one of Belgrade's pop songs Beograde and Devojko Mala know… Another thing is first time seeing it. Michael Jackson and Pavarotti. This a statement and claims he was mistreat- "Practition- have often contains pork, leaving Muslims difficult living conditions," he says. most popular attractions. (little girl). whether that money could I still haven´t had one [now playing], Beograde, is also ok. ed by the officers. ers of Islam with only side-dishes to choose from. Civil society activist and former MP "This is something for which people However, in future, more songs will be have been invested in the opportunity to It is nice in the evening when it is lit up, "The ones who… [detained] me were already live ‘congratulated' BIRN asked the university to com- Aida Ćorović also condemned the ac- will come to our city, as we are a city that added to the playlist. something… [other than the watch it at night, but I but not to the extent that I expected. I rude [and] threatened to ‘skin me alive'… in dire condi- the Muslims of ment on facilities for Muslim students tions of the state. lives on tourists who need to have such BIRN asked passers-by and city work- fountain], which was not believe that it is even expected it to be much prettier. All in all I know this is not a reflection of Serbia tions and are but did not receive a response by the "With the night-time demolition of interesting things," he said. ers for their views on the fountain that really a priority." more spectacular. " [though], it is not bad." and that most people do not think the deprived of their Serbia, Belgrade time of publication. the mosque in Zemun, the state has Regardless of criticisms over the as- Vesić described as the "new symbol of same," he said, adding Muslims do not basic religious rights, like having reli- Luinović's views are echoed by Mua- clearly demonstrated its policy to- tonishing price of the fountain, 1.8 million Belgrade". seek vengeance for the demolished gious buildings and graveyards," the and Zemun on mer Zukorlić, a former mufti of the Is- wards minorities. Plain and simple, we mosque. statement read. lamic Community in Serbia who is now have seen different criteria applied by The municipal authorities of Zemun By comparison, Belgrade and Serbia Ramadan by a sitting MP and supporter of the ruling the state in its treatment of minority Polje demolished the mosque, saying as a whole is practically littered with Serbian Progressive Party. and majority communities," Ćorović ORDER DELIVERY TO it had been built without a permit. Af- Orthodox Christian graveyards and sending bulldozers Zukorlić is calling on the authorities to told BIRN. YOUR DOOR Find your copy of ter locals defended the building a day churches. start solving the numerous problems Mus- Meanwhile, Čelebić says that the +381 11 4030 303 and a thousand [email protected] earlier, the authorities waited for cover Meanwhile, Belgrade Mufti lims face "before things get out of hand". Muslims of Zemun Polje had hoped to Belgrade Insight here: of night to tear it down. The authorities Jusufspahić called on Muslims to re- gendarmes to While acknowledging the demol- celebrate this Ramadan in their new, al- www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight did not answer BIRN's questions about main calm saying that he expects an ished mosque was built without con- though unfinished, mosque. why the mosque was not granted a con- explanation from Serbian President the mosque. We struction permits, he warns the Muslim "I saw on TV people praying next to struction permit. Aleksandar Vučić. population should not be expected to its ruins… almost nothing has changed MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT INTERGALACTIC DINNER INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF FLY FLY TRAVEL The mosque in Zemun Polje was op- "We were wrong to build [the tolerate so many difficulties. [for Muslims in Belgrade], he says. Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 BELGRADE Address: YUBC Bulevar Mihajla return the greeting erated by the Serbian-run Islamic Com- mosque] without a licence, just like half Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Temišvarska 19 Pupina 10v HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Mihajla Pupina 85A munity of Serbia, who condemned the the population of this country has. It with the words of Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT DVA JELENA move in its Ramadan message. is a problem with urban planning that SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Skadarska 32 "The authorities have ‘congratulated' has been turned into a political one the prophet Isa HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF TOURIST ORGANISATION OF Address: Smetanina 12 the Muslims of Serbia, Belgrade and Ze- because the Islamic Community has [Jesus]: ‘Forgive Address: Studentski trg 9 Restaurant Mali vrabac SERBIA mun on Ramadan by sending bulldoz- not been granted a single construction Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Trg Republike 5 RADISSON BLU OLD ers and a thousand gendarmes to the permit in 47 years," he said. them, for they CAFE SNEŽANA MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE mosque. We return the greeting with Address: Knez Mihailova 50 HOTEL MERIOT NATIONAL FOUNDATION Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 the words of the prophet Isa [Jesus]: ‘DIFFICULT LIVING know not what Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 FOR DANCE www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade ‘Forgive them, for they know not what CONDITIONS' KOLARAC Address: Kolarčeva 3 they do,'" read the message. they do,'" Skadarska 32 Address: Studentski trg 5 BISTRO BAR FLY FLY TRAVEL Address: Kolarčeva 7 The Islamic Community in Serbia, Journalist Luinović, who also stud- +381 62 350 002 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 RESTAURANT BIZU Address: Aerodrom pult a rival organisation whose leaders are ied in Belgrade, says Muslims face [email protected] HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 based in Bosnia and Herzegovina, is- many other problems in the capital. SKVER 44 Islamic Community CREATING YOUR MEMORIES Address: Kneza Miloša 5 FLY FLY TRAVEL sued a press release criticising the She says Muslim students find it dif- Address: Požeška 44a Address: Knez Mihailova 4 demolition as an example of the dou- ficult to meet the obligation to pray five of Serbia 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 7 SERBIA BUSINESS

COMMENT Serbian elites' long Talk but no action on fight against clarity tax cut for lowest paid However, this would have a huge im- More tragically, our tendency to- Reducing the pact on the import sector and retail, as Although it is wards obscurantism extends to public well as average citizens, who would have debates. Unlike their counterparts in tax burden on to pay more for goods and services. the Anglophone world who often try Both reasons are strong enough to make 170 years since to use simple language in their think- low-paid jobs is decision-makers extra cautious, which is pieces to explain complex issues, a why this reform has become a constant a simplified significant part of the Serbian intellec- widely supported, topic of discussion within politics. tual elite happily clings to jargon and In 2010, Diana Dragutinović, a former Serbian even tend to craft their own words. but the issue of finance minister, proposed reform based Paradoxically, this tendency is more on cutting labour costs, in order to boost language pronounced among pro-democracy who will pay for it employment and production. Her pro- pundits and commentators who seem continues to delay posal, however, failed to gain wider sup- became the to be more concerned with dazzling port in the government of then Prime the readership with their own erudi- reform. Minister Mirko Cvetković. norm, Serbian tion and creativity, rather than bother- ing them with an actual message. PUBLIC SPENDING elites still prefer Reading think-pieces about rela- tively straightforward topics in pro- Stevan VELJOVIĆ Some experts claim, on the other hand, muddying the democracy media often requires not that low salaries can be taxed less even only a good Serbian dictionary but a erbian entrepreneurs have without increasing VAT. rhetorical waters. high tolerance for quirky terms and heard many promises and "The fiscal consolidation [measures to sentence structures. Unfortunately, proposals about cutting reduce public spending including cuts often it seems the more impenetrable the tax burden on employ- in public sector wages and pensions] has the stylistic flourishes there are, the less ing staff in order to create a already exceeded its stated objectives in substance there is behind them. more favourable environ- terms of reducing the budget deficit," Pro- Sment for business and employment. fessor Arandarenko said. LINGUISTIC SMOKE It is argued that if employers did not "This is not the best solution, because AND MIRRORS have to pay so much tax it would make it means that business and individuals job creation easier, especially for low paid are taxed more than needed, impeding Our liberal elites think the lay read- work, while reducing the number work- economic growth which should be based ership needs to be ‘elevated' to the au- ing in the shadow economy and, there- primarily on two pillars: investment by thor's supposed intellectual heights, fore, not paying contributions. private companies and domestic con- rather than pandered to with simplic- Before ending his mandate as prime sumption." ity. One notable example of this atti- minister, Serbian President Aleksandar He argued that the level of public ex- tude, Svetislav Basara, even suggested Vučić hinted several times that the gov- penditure amounts to around 45 per cent that Karadžić's introduction of folk ernment intended to reduce taxes and of Serbia's GDP, which is a high percentage language was a disaster as it left the contributions on salaries, in order to for a country at this level of development. Serbian language poorer and severed boost employment and help turn jobs in "If the state would focus more on cut- its links with the great elite literature in the shadow economy into registered em- ting public expenditure through, for the unpopular Slavonic-Serbian. The ployment. example, increased efficiency of pub- reasoning is that by making language "One, two, three or four per cent – I think lic companies and the public sector as Srđan GARČEVIĆ simpler and more limited to the words we can do that. It remains to be seen, the a whole, then it wouldn't be necessary of workmen who did not bother with government will make a more accurate to fulfil the criteria of revenue neutral- n 1847, after three decades of abstract concepts, Karadžić reduced its assessment and it would be good to dis- ity [meaning that tax relief measures are struggle, Vuk Karadžić and his sophistication. cuss it with the IMF and the Fiscal Coun- equalled by increases in other taxes] of allies, Petar Petrović Njegoš, Although there is value in complex- cil because we don't want to jeopardize the reform entirely," he said. Branko Radišević and Đura ity and ambiguity, obscurantism also what we achieved so far [in reducing the He said any increase in VAT primarily Daničić, decisively won the bat- allows those in power to use linguistic budget deficit]," Vučić said in an interview affects the poor and less wealthy, as they Itle for the standardisation of Serbian smoke and mirrors to protect them- for TV Prva on May 9th. consume a greater proportion of their in- folk language and its literary use. Their selves against public scrutiny. The Even though a discussion on the de- Nebojša Atanacković, president of the Serbian Association of Employers, said that reducing the tax burden is one way to increase wages and investment. Photo: Beta come, and also creates incentives to work victory was achieved by proving that danger of this approach was recently tails of reforms has not yet happened, in the shadow economy, cancelling out the language spoken by illiterate peas- proven by the collapse of the global fi- many in the business community remain for example for family members etc. – are and workers with low salaries, the self- no direct link between contributions paid any positive effects of the reform. ants was versatile enough to be used nancial system. The banks hid behind hopeful it will happen eventually. also included, Serbian workers are actu- employed and those who are currently and benefits that citizens have," he said. "This temptation - to fill the gap in the for translating the New Testament, for complex models and language that Nebojša Atanacković, president of the ally worse-off than their EU counterparts. excluded from the formal labour market. "There are also economic advantages if easiest way by increasing VAT - should be Gorski Vijenac, Njegoš's grand philo- made them seem smart while making Serbian Association of Employers, said This especially stands for workers with "Such reform would reduce the costs of health care is financed through VAT com- resisted," Arandarenko insisted. sophical epic poem, and for capturing grave mistakes. The response to the that reducing the tax burden is one way earnings close to the minimum wage of formalizing informal jobs, while creating pared to a contributions model, and very Altiparmakov from the Fiscal Council, Radičević's lyrical feelings, as well as crisis was to make the models and lan- to increase wages and investment. €187 [22,880 dinars] per month, for which new jobs would become less expensive, similar reforms were implemented in however, warned that the reform would conducting scholarly debates. Vuk Karadžić. Photo: Wikipedia/ lithography by Josef Kriehuber guage simpler so the wider audience "Each per cent of decrease matters, we the tax wedge is around 37 per cent, but not at the expense of net earnings," he Germany in 2007 and Hungary in 2008." be difficult to implement before strength- Although Karadžić's work on the could easily spot problems. have to be realistic and not expect big which is high compared to the EU and explained. He believes the reforms proposed in ening the tax administration. language and collecting folk poetry Similarly, Serbian democracy, al- cuts," he said, underlining that similar Eastern Europe. Those who would be worse off, on the 2010 that centred on cutting social con- Many believe the tax administration's and stories was warmly received by as they saw Karadžić's language as un- written or said should be, ideally, wide- pleasure of reading any official document ready imperilled by too many shadowy proposals have been discussed for many This means that workers are relatively other hand, include a small portion of em- tributions while increasing VAT are still ability to collect public revenue and the key European intellectuals of the sophisticated, but also due to political ly understood. in Serbian, you would find most them private dealings among insiders, would years. more expensive for industries that use ployees with above-average salaries and, worth discussing. reduce the shadow economy could be day, including Goethe, his battle for the concerns. written in way that makes them almost benefit from at least an intelligible pub- Few experts are in any doubt that there large numbers of low-skilled and low- in the short term, the state, due to lower "This would make the Serbian econo- improved with a greater number of tax folk language was a dangerous one. A Obrenović thought that the wider CLARITY BEGETS impenetrable, even to an educated and lic debate, in which the citizenry could is room for improvement in Serbia's tax paid labour. tax collection. my more competitive, as increased VAT inspectors, more frequent field controls, few decades before him, Sava Mrkalj, dissemination of epic poetry written ACCOUNTABILITY informed reader. Documents that are partake and voice their concerns. Ob- system, especially for low-paid work. "The regressive tax system that was in- "In the long term, the increase in for- would make imported goods more ex- improving the qualifications structure of who thought along the same lines as in a language that was easy to under- supposed to be useful, like instructions scurity only benefits those who are The amount of taxes and contributions troduced in 2001 and slightly improved mal employment would broaden the tax pensive, while lower contributions would employees and an increased focus with- Karadžić and dared propose using stand would make his compromises Even now, obscurity of language and on how to obtain a driving licence, are full adept at hunting in murky waters. - the tax wedge - shouldered by employ- in 2007 is one of the main causes for long- base and, consequently, total revenues reduce the costs of goods and services in the administration on its core business. the folk language, was pilloried for his with the Ottomans difficult to uphold. meaning in Serbia is not considered of meandering sentences and staid lega- Perhaps equally important in our ers for total labour costs is around 39 term declining employment [figures] and from taxation of labour would return to produced in Serbia." "Throughout the last decade, the num- ideas and eventually he lost his mind. Stevan Stratimirović, then patriarch of a necessary evil in highly specialised lese that one can barely comprehend. stagnant political climate is that clear per cent of the average monthly salary the decline of whole sectors of the econ- the previous level. In an optimal scenario, Those who would benefit include the ber of employees in tax administration Although back then Serbs lived split the Serbian Orthodox Church, was de- fields that lie outside the purview of lay- Speaking to a Serbian bureaucrat language has the power to inspire. I of €372 [45,000 dinars]. The total labour omy, such as textile, wood and metal in- we'd all gain due to faster growth, higher unemployed, because of easier job-crea- has dropped dramatically, from 8,500 to between the Ottoman and Habsburg termined to stop Karadžić, by trying to persons knowledge. Partly due to our about any official business is often noticed this first-hand once I attended cost includes net salary, taxes and social dustry," Mihail Arandarenko, a professor employment and greater social cohe- tion, and low-paid workers, provided that just 5,500 employees on full-time con- empires, ironically it was not the for- get his books banned and even spread- education, which does not value chal- even more frustrating. No matter how the first church service that I could fully contributions. at the Faculty of Economics at the Univer- sion," Arandarenko said. the reforms included more progressive tracts, which is the lowest number of tax- eigners that Karadžić was fighting – it ing panic that Karadžić wanted to con- lenging authority, but also thanks to the animated or lucid they normally are, understand – in English. The rituals When this burden is calculated on net sity of Belgrade, told BIRN. taxation of salaries through increasing men compared to other countries in the was the Serbian cultural and priestly vert Serbs to Catholicism. Despite all tradition of concentrating power in small once asked for a clarification they slip that used to feel mechanic and boring salaries, the percentage is even higher, up He has advocated an increase in the ‘CUT CONTRIBUTIONS, the non-taxable threshold. On the other region," Altiparmakov said. elite. the scheming, Karadžić won and the circles of confidantes. Obscurantism is into a monotone and unleash a torrent in incomprehensible Church Slavonic, to 65 per cent. threshold of tax-free earnings, currently RAISE VAT' hand, the import sector would carry the "In addition, the salaries in tax admin- Both in the Ottoman-controlled folk language, which was to be known the preferred style of Serbia's elite and is of needlessly complicated sentences became alive and relevant once I could €96 [11,790 dinars] per month, to the level burden of the reform. istration can't match wages in the private principality of Serbia ruled by Miloš as Serbo-Croatian from 1860, gained even seen by the wider population as a to state a simple point. This attitude is actually engage with them. SERBS WORSE-OFF THAN of the full minimum wage, arguing that Nikola Altiparmakov, a member of What makes implementing this reform sector, which makes retaining the best Obrenović and in the Habsburg empire, the upper hand. Slavonic-Serbian only signed of erudition and intellect. not borne out of ignorance but is often Karadžić and his allies, as well as EU COUNTERPARTS the present tax system is neither just nor Serbia's independent Fiscal Council, said politically sensitive is not just the expect- staff more difficult. the most educated and powerful Serbs survived in its church form and is used The tendency towards unintelligibility a deliberate strategy. An ex-bureaucrat their detractors, were very aware of this efficient because it impedes job creation there are several ways in which the tax ed loss of revenues, but the fact it would "There is huge risk that in these circum- shunned Karadžić's work and insisted in Orthodox rituals. is, unsurprisingly, most pronounced in friend of mine was often ridiculed by power and that is why they engaged in In comparison with other countries, in the formal economy and is a barrier to burden on salaries can be reduced, with create winners and losers. stances tax reform, albeit being theoreti- on prioritising Slavonic-Serbian, which Although 170 years have passed our bureaucracy. Although bureaucrats her colleagues for wanting to write a decades-long brutal fight over unex- the tax burden in Serbia for a worker job creation and investment in labour- contributions for health and unemploy- From the budget point of view, the tax cally well developed, doesn't give expect- was used in church services and litera- since the victory of the folk language, around the world are famous for com- meeting notes in short bullet points. citing things like grammar and spelling. earning an average wage is around the intensive industries ment insurance being logical candidates. burden for lower wages could be decreased ed results in practice and that's why the ture but was unintelligible to the vast the Serbian political and cultural elites plicating things, stylistic preference for Clear messages result in accountability European average. The beneficiaries of more progressive "Unlike contributions for pension in- if it is compensated for by an immediate in- reform of the tax administration should be majority of the population. The elite's have far from accepted the crux of unhelpful complexity in Serbia is espe- and may be challenged, murky mean- Srđan Garčević is a writer and a However, when tax relief measures taxation, with a higher non-taxable ceiling, surance, which also comprises part of the crease of revenues elsewhere, with a VAT the priority, before we make changes in tax resistance was in part due to snobbery, Karadžić's reform: that things that are cially strong. If you ever had the dubious dering prose hides many faults. founder of The Nutshell Times blog. that exist in other European countries – would be employers in low-wage sectors tax burden on wages, in this case, there is increase apparently the safest option. legislation that have long-term effects." 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 9 REGION FACES Albanians fed up with politicians' Serbian arts policy ‘is election rhetoric Voters at the unconscious culture-cide' upcoming polls want to Duško Milojević, know how founder of the Vračar education can be Rocks music festival, improved, how on state culture the economy policy, life values and can grow and if taxes will be cut, why young people but politicians must take part in the have only offered political process. slogans and insults. Milan RADONJIĆ hen, 30 years ago, Duško Milojević and his friends Fatjona MEJDINI formed the legendary Bel- grade punk-rock band Dža lbanians are heading to the ili Bu, he was a part of a gen- polls for general elections Weration that defined itself by confronting the on June 25th, but few of them Milošević regime and everything it stood for. Par- Aseem to be satisfied with the ticularly in music and culture. parties' political campaigns so far, de- Today, he is off the stage but continues to influ- scribing them as empty of policy details ence the music scene in the Serbian capital by cre- and lacking genuine plans for improving ating one of the best alternative music festivals in people's lives. Belgrade - Vračar Rocks. The campaign itself started after three The idea came to Milojević six years ago, after months of political stalemate, when the a successful and innovative renovation of the two leaders of the two main parties, the Božidarac cultural centre's concert hall, located Socialist Party, PS of PM Edi Rama, and in his old neighbourhood in Belgrade's Vračar the Democratic Party, PD of opposition municipality. His personal dedication to music leader Lulzim Basha, finally struck a co- and youth means Belgraders get to attend superb operation deal on May 18th that ensured rock events held every weekend from February to that all the country's main political forces June each year. From 25 gigs in the festival's first would participate in the elections. year in 2012, Vračar Rocks has staged more than The three pre-electoral months were 50 concerts this season. characterised by harsh political rhetoric Over the past six years, Vračar Rocks has put on Duško Milojević and his friends formed the legendary Belgrade punk-rock band Dža ili Bu. Photo: Aleksandar Zec and constant threats from the opposition more than 300 gigs by rock bands from Serbia, for- to not participate in polls, causing doubts mer Yugoslav countries, Europe and United States, The Božidarac cultural centre holds many child- scene in the provinces, we need minimal support especially the very young, are genuinely and posi- that they would be held at the appointed but also hosted many successful humanitarian hood memories for Milojević. It's the place where from local government and some corporate spon- tively surprised when they experience playing in time. events. Vibrant rock gigs and a young audience he grew up, gained his first scars after falling off a sorships. At the moment it is still impossible, but Belgrade for the first time. Those who are a little However, when the situation finally have revived the old Božidarac cultural centre, swing, played pinball, and experienced music as we won't give up." older and experienced love Božidarac's concert started to settle down, the PS and PD putting it back on the map of Belgrade's musical a teenager. So it was also a personal thing to make This year Serbia Rocks will be held in one or hall, which is full of references to the former Yugo- trained their rhetoric on the smaller par- life. this festival a success, although many doubted two towns but the plan is to include 10 to 15 towns slavia. ties, raising the political tension again. "When we were 17 and unknown, we played all him in the beginning. and make it a real travelling summer caravan, "My motivation is the further growth of this All this seems to have taken its toll on over Belgrade in places like the Students Cultural which would start in mid-June and last until mid- wider rock scene because if current bands disap- trust in political parties among voters, Centre or Dom Omladine, but today this is not pos- ACTIVISM WITH HUMOUR September, pitching up in a different town every pear, and new ones do not show up, then my work many of whom told BIRN that they were Albanians are heading to the polls for general elections on June 25th. Photo: Ivana Dervishi sible. Some of them are closed, others have unaf- weekend. is also finished. We have to water this joint garden, disappointed with t h e fordable rents. In the provinces it is worse. All cul- But fighting injustice against the odds was al- Many bands that play Božidarac come from protect old trees but also plant new ones. If we live politicians. tural centres which used to have equipment and ways his thing. Preferably, with some humour. former Yugoslav countries, Milojević told BIRN, on the old ones alone, when they dry out and stop "They Many are talking EDUCATION AND TAXES ARE tion has been highly debated and opposed, en the economy and improve living stand- people have been destroyed. Back then, there was The Unserious People Movement, which he also noting that although kids who listen to and play bearing fruit, then what? We would die from hun- don't really VOTERS' CONCERNS although none of the parties seems to have ards, without giving any clues about how no money but there were means. Today, if kids founded as a teenager, was inspired by Monty rock music have broader views, some of them, ger." care about about the need a clear strategy about what it is going to do they plan to do it. from Belgrade want to go to Valjevo and play, they Python's Flying Circus. They organised collective us and our Rama has led a loud and flashy cam- in this regard," Jata said. "Many are talking about the need to just can't do it." visits to Tito's Memorial at a time when Vojislav concerns, to strengthen paign, dominated by his online trolling of Anisa Arranjaku, a young resident of Ti- strengthen the economy, although there Milojević defines the state's cultural policy as an Šešelj and his Serbian Radical Party ultra-national- so I find it his political opponents using social media rana, said that as a result of this confusion is no clarity about how this is going to be "unconscious culture-cide" that he says began to ist followers wowed to destroy it. It was all a joke, useless to re- the economy, memes. about the law on higher education and its achieved. The lack of a detailed programme unfold in the 1990s and has continued ever since. he says, but with a purpose, as they realised that ally say what Few electoral promises have been articu- future, students who are taking their exam is obvious with any of the parties," Jata said. His band participated in numerous demonstra- activism with humour was the best way to make I would like although there is lated, while Rama's campaign rhetoric has for university acceptance are also per- Alisa Kastroti, the owner of a small busi- tions against the Milošević regime. On one day in people understand what was really going on. them to take into consideration," said one been focused on the results he believes his plexed about the situation. ness in the city of Korca, said that she and June 1992, he remembers Dža ili Bu played at three "When young people decide to engage in the woman in the Albanian capital who did no clarity about government's reforms have achieved over "I also wanted to hear more from parties her husband were waiting to hear from opposition events in Novi Sad, Belgrade and Niš. political process, government policy towards not want to give her name. the last four years. when it comes to education financing and politicians about tax reductions for small The band continued playing and protesting in them will change. Today, there is no money for the "We are just so confused, from morn- how this is going to On the other hand, Basha's campaign investment. Many schools outside Tirana businesses. the years before Milošević's fall in 2000. cultural needs of youth, as they do not turn out to ing to evening we are listening to politi- be achieved. The seems to have focused on what was not are really bad when it comes to infrastruc- "This all we care about and we have not "During the winter protests in 1997, one even- vote. If it were otherwise, politicians would change cians on TV shouting at each other," said achieved in those four years by Rama's gov- ture and the quality of education," Arran- heard a single solid promise in this direc- ing without any announcement, we took out their tune and then culture would have five, not Tirana resident Sabri Bala. lack of a detailed ernment, which he calls a failure. jaku said. tion," Kastroti complained. our instruments at the corner of Njegoševa and 0.5 per cent, of the budget." This frustration among the general Many younger voters who spoke to BIRN Nineteen-year-old Serxhio Ceka said that Arranjaku also said that she would be Smiljanićeva streets, close to our studio. Someone The Vračar Rocks festival cherishes activism, public escalated during the campaign programme is said that their leading concern was edu- he wanted politicians to put their focus on more than glad if any politician spoke about provided an electrical cable from a nearby flat, and and at least five humanitarian concerts are organ- because television stations have not held cation, and that they have found no clar- professional education, where he sees that the need for lower taxes, especially when it we started playing. A crowd gathered, the traffic ised every season. The causes have been various TIMEXPERT VITAMIN C+ INTENSIVE MULTI debates to examine parties' political pro- obvious with any of ity about how the main political parties are Albania has a lot a do. comes to lower- and medium-level salaries. was blocked and someone eventually called the but always meaningful, including helping people CORRECTION:FIRMNES,LUMINOSITY AND YOUTHFULNESS grammes on issues that concern voters. planning to improve the system. "I have followed a professional school in Fadil Demirxhiu, a pensioner in Tirana, police, but people protected us and gave us time with disabilities, those displaced by floods and TREATMENT PERFECT FOR JUNE. Prime Minister Edi Rama also turned the parties." Erjola Jata, a journalist, said that there is a Italy and their system is just amazing and said meanwhile that though politicians of- to pack up the equipment and run. Protests were providing the means for medical treatment. In six REGULAR PRICE 5.000 RSD. PRICE IN JUNE 4.000 RSD down the request from his main oppo- lot of confusion when it comes to education. gives you so much. Here you mainly have ten repeat that they will make the economy a part of our lives. After it was all over in 2000, we years, some 10,000 euros (more than 1 million di- nent, Lulzim Basha to have a TV debate. In the summer of 2015, Rama's govern- general schools that in the end don't pro- strong, they fail to detail how they are going expected things to change. But those who came to nars) have been collected for good causes. Twenty "For the first time in this election, I've Erjola Jata, journalist ment passed a new law on higher educa- vide too much, and a politician has the duty to develop crucial sectors like agriculture power did not turn to us for advice, instead they people are now permanently employed by the fes- 20% not seen members of the parties confront tion, which was strongly contested by the to change this," Ceka said. and industry. went to Pink TV to have photos taken with Ceca tival. The plan is to further expand. OFF! each other in debates over programmes. student unions, opposition and the junior Many also emphasised that lower taxes "Is just nonsense to speak about a strong [Svetlana ‘Ceca' Ražnatović, the Serbian folk diva "We want to build on what we have achieved All I see is them slamming each other party in the coalition government, the So- should have been promised by the parties economy when you don't have any plan to and wife of late suspected, but never convicted, in Božidarac and create Serbia Rocks, a travel- Kneginje Zorke 96, Tel/011 308 7824; 060 0700868 when staging meetings with citizens," cialist Movement for Integration. who hope to gain power, arguing that politi- develop agriculture and industry. We are war criminal Željko Ražnatović Arkan], as they ling summer festival, with free concerts in town www.esteticmoments.rs said Rakip Memisha. "We know that the law on higher educa- cians have only said that they will strength- not getting anything real," Demirxhiu said. had more fans than we did." squares. To do this, and present the new rock 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT MAYKA

As far as the menu is concerned, Mayka is technically a vegetarian restaurant that also offers vegan dishes. Photos: Facebook/Mayka Tešnjar in Valjevo. Photo: Wikipedia/Boksi

with some warm Ayurvedic lemonade, tan instead of chicken. Seitan is pretty Friendly, eclectic which was comforting and refresh- tricky to prepare. If done right, it can ing at the same time. It was basically a resemble fine veal but if done poorly, and unpretentious typical warm lemonade with various you're basically trying to chew through The many charms of Valjevo Indian spices and mint. Though we de- a dry steak for the duration of your - Mayka is the cided to stay away from alcohol, Mayka meal. In Mayka's case, the seitan ex- does have a very solid wine list and ceeded every expectation. It was won- Whether you but controversial recent Serbian Ortho- vegetarian/ an assortment of bottled Serbian craft derfully seasoned and melted in your dox saint. beer on offer. mouth without being soggy in the least. are into hiking or Another great option to enjoy the vegan restaurant We decided on the Rajastani curry Both dishes were served with jas- outdoors is hiking around Divčibare, and vegetarian ‘chicken tikka masala’, mine rice that was excellent, even history, summer which is located an hour's drive from Belgrade has been along with masala and paneer samo- though we had a suspicion that it might Valjevo. Perched at about 1000 metres sas, choosing to keep the meal limited have been parboiled. The samosas or winter above sea level as part of the Maljen waiting for. geographically. were tasty, soft and not too greasy, com- mountain, the wooded plateau offers Afraid that the samosas might have plementing the main dishes perfectly. activities, Valjevo dramatic views over central Serbia, been a bit too much, we were pleased For dessert, we had a chocolate and can be easily hiked. Although its to find out that Mayka doesn't serve tra- brownie with raspberries and a “Grana- has it all. proximity to Belgrade means it can be ditional Serbian portions, which usu- da” smoothie, which was pomegranate- overrun with weekend tourists, there David GALIĆ ally leads to overeating and not being based and thoroughly refreshing and are enough hiking trails around the able to breathe for the next hour or so. exotic. Srđan GARČEVIĆ woods and streams to enjoy the peace hen it comes to veg- The restaurant seems very serious Mayka is the vegetarian/vegan res- and clean air. The most exciting hikes etarian and espe- about promoting healthy and smart taurant Belgrade has been in need of. aljevo is a handsome town are to the highest peak of the plateau, cially vegan restau- eating habits, giving you all of the vital It's void of pretension and therefore on the shores of the Kol- Kraljev sto, and to Ljuti krš, a part of a rants in Belgrade, nutritional elements you need, cou- allows you to eat this type of food with- ubara river which lies only protected nature reserve with stunning most people expect pled with magnificent aromas, while out a grain of cynicism or eye-rolling. Van hour and a half's drive views over a small valley. theW same thing: a sterile, new-agey am- ensuring diners are happily full rather It should be noted that Mayka is also south west from Belgrade. The town's More adventurous hikers can also bience, bland aromas and generally un- than horribly overfed. a fantastic place to get drinks after work charm is drawn from its important role visit the Taor springs that lie about 40 inspired menus and wine lists. The Rajastani curry was tasty, well or in the evening. The staff are tremen- in modern Serbian history, as well as minutes' drive from Valjevo on a very However, Mayka has been able to spiced, but fairly boring, even for Ser- dous, demonstrating to visitors a per- its close proximity to some of Serbia's rough road. The hike to the springs from break out of all these stereotypes and bian tastes. This is mainly because the fect combination of expertise, authen- most accessible natural wonders. Ljuti krš, Divčibare. Photo: Srđan Garčević the village of Taor - which can be chal- prove to even the most sceptical of dish features carrots, peas and cauli- ticity and warmth. In 1804, Valjevo was the scene of the lenging for some due to the steepness - diners that vegetarian and vegan res- flower, everything your grandmother assassination of two prominent Ser- outstretched. He is now honoured with was also the site of an incident that vina, a picturesque village which is takes about two hours at a gentle pace. taurants don't have to be boring both in uses to make dishes for you when you MAYKA bian leaders, Aleksa Nenadović and an impressive steel monument that earned Valjevans the reputation as the home of the Nenadović family Although difficult to reach, a visit to the terms of visuals and taste. break her heart by telling her that you Address: Kosančićev Venac 2 Ilija Birčanin, by the Ottomans, which recreates that moment. tricksters all around Serbia. The precise and the famous Serbian poet Desanka springs is well worth the effort given The first great thing about this res- don't eat meat. Phone: +381 11 3288401, is known locally as the ‘Slaughter of the In the 19th Century, Valjevo was one details of the story are murky, but in all Maksimović. Nearby Petnica, which their eerie beauty. Hidden in a valley, taurant/lounge bar that hits you is the that is surrounded with flowers and ica. So if you're not much of a risk-taker, The vegetarian ‘chicken tikka masa- Price Guide: 1,200 dinars [10 euros] Dukes'. This brutal act sparked a coun- of the more prosperous cities in Ser- retellings a wedding party from Šabac has recently gained prominence for its the springs are actually a highly photo- location and the atmosphere. Located plant life, which makes it an enjoyable you can still have traditionally Western la’ is a classic tikka masala but with sei- per person without drinks try-wide uprising against Turkish rule bia and it has a charming old quar- was lavishly hosted in Tešnjar, while innovative Science centre, also offers genic series of small waterfalls dotted in the central Kosančićev Venac part of place to dine outside despite the fact dishes with a vegetarian/vegan twist which led to the first modern Serbian ter around the river Kolubara. It was the bride was asked to share a bed with visits to the Petnica cave and the near- with abandoned old watermills. The central Belgrade, the warm and inviting that it's located right on a main street like burgers, pizza and pasta. state. The site of their assassination, around this time that the most notable a local maiden, who was actually a local by archaeological site that was inhab- hike to and from the springs on Povlen interior and exterior design of the lo- that leads to Belgrade's busiest traffic And while just about every dish ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ close to the surviving Ottoman admin- buildings in the city centre were built: guy in drag. ited since the Neolithic period. mountain offers views of seemingly cale evokes associations with Parisian hub, Zeleni Venac. on the menu is traditionally one that ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” istration building where Nenadović the old school which now houses a A short walk from the city centre is Besides history, Valjevo offers a fan- endless, serene forests and rolling hills. bistros. As far as the menu is concerned, should involve meat in some way, a lot RESTAURANT KOVAČ and Birčanin were imprisoned, is museum, the Radio Valjevo building, Valjevo brewery. Founded in 1860, it is tastic variety of trails for hiking. Just The proximity of all Valjevo's won- Love, warmth and comfort are the Mayka is technically a vegetarian res- of effort has obviously been put into modern ethno restaurant marked with a suitably macabre monu- which housed the first Serbian bank one of the few remaining old Serbian outside the city is the Gradac river val- ders to each other means a weekend main leitmotifs of this restaurant, both taurant that also offers vegan dishes. As recreating these dishes with meat sub- ment. opened outside of Belgrade, and the breweries that have not been bought ley, whose waters offer a great way to in Valjevo or Divčibare allows sufficient in terms of what it offers in a culinary you walk in, you'll probably catch the stitutes, such as seitan and soy, without During WWII, Valjevo was the site elegant Valjevo high school [gimna- by global conglomerates. The brew- cool down from summer heat. The Gra- time to enjoy some of the most varied sense and in the general atmosphere of scent of curry, ginger and other spices deviating from the core characteristics of another infamous death, this time zija]. ery is surrounded with a few decent dac's shallow waters are reputedly the landscapes in Serbia, all without much the restaurant. that are most commonly associated of the original dishes. of partisan Stevan Filipović. Filipović's However, Tešnjar is the most iconic restaurants, which serve decent local cleanest in Serbia and cut a fairy-tale hassle. Although visiting the region in The interior succeeds in making you with Indian food. However, Mayka's Mayka basically strives to offer meat- death became part of the Yugoslav na- street in Valjevo. It has preserved its 19th grub. One thing to try is duvan čvarci, canyon dotted with caves and even the summer offers certain nice weather feel at home and intrigued, with its very menu is much broader. free versions of culinary classics from tional consciousness thanks to a photo Century feel and cobblestones, and is a local snack made from fried pork boast a ruined roman fortress. The sce- and a good break from Belgrade's heat, eccentric and detailed design com- The menu is as eclectic as the inte- all over the world that most vegetarians taken just before his hanging, in which often used in films and TV shows. This belly. nic trail also passes by two monaster- visiting is worthwhile in all seasons, as bined with its complete lack of arro- rior, offering not only a fair share of In- and vegans would never be able to or- he is shown defiantly fighting for the street has a bohemian reputation due Those more interested in history and ies, Ćelije and Lelić, the latter of which is there are even a few smaller ski slopes gance and pretension. During the sum- dian dishes, but also hints of Thailand, der in Belgrade. Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com anti-fascist cause with his two arms to a multitude of drinking dens, and culture can further explore Branko- linked to Nikolaj Velimirović, a popular on Divčibare. mer, there's also a garden area in front Mexico, Japan, France, Italy and Amer- We started off the dining experience 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

‘Tame the OPERA, BALLET Darkness' at AND CLASSICAL KROKODIL festival

CLUBBING FRIDAY JUNE 16th The KROKODIL Festival, a regional literary gathering, Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra,

will be held this year over the Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Arts in brief Arts in brief AND LIVE MUSIC th th Studentski Trg 5, 8pm June 16 -18 weekend. The Queen Margot (Bregović), The ninth edition of the festival, National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm bearing the slogan "Taming Sarah Skopljak and Vuk Božilović, , Belgrade City Assembly th the Darkness", has special piano FRIDAY JUNE 16 • Bad Music Boogaloo, Dorćol • Vasil Hadžimanov Trio, Reception Hall, Dragoslava Jovanovića Platz, Dobračina 59, 7pm Restaurant Amphora, guest appearances from the 2, 8pm Norwegian writer Erlend Loe, • Midnight Orient, Cultural • Neša Bridžis, Petlja Bar, Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, th Czech-Croatian film director SATURDAY JUNE 17 Centre Grad, Braće Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, Zemunski kej, 9pm TRA T T O R I A Lordan Zafranović, Belgrade- Krsmanović 4, 11pm 9pm , RTS Symphony Orchestra – Szymon • DJ Cholak and DJ Marchez born writer and activist Nehring, piano, Ilija M. Kolarac • The Twilight Band, Petlja • Tronic Lab 15 / Garden of §, Shake and Shake boat on PIZZER I A Svetlana Slapšak and many Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Bar, Bulevar Vojvode Mišica Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Sava river, 11pm more. Speakers will address Opera: Norma (Bellini), The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7pm 11, 9pm Stefana 115, 11pm festival-goers in front of the rd amphitheatre of the Yugoslav SUNDAY JUNE 18th • Afrozoid (Sao Paolo) • Beat Birthday with FRIDAY JUNE 23 Nebojsina 8 Museum, which is where the / Monosaccharide, Joey Daniel, Barutana, 011/3863-999 Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber festival is held every year. Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Kalemegdan Fortress, 11pm • Xperiment Birthday Party, [email protected] Music - Belgrade Symphony, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg Stefana 115, 11pm • House Night by Mirko and Barutana, Kalemegdan www.restoranamici.rs New Prhal show goes 5, 11am • Boža • Deki • Ilija, Barutana, Meex, Freestyler, boat on Fortress, 11pm Vesna Stanković-Moffar, violin back to basics and Tina Zerdin, harp, Studentski Kalemegdan Fortress, 11pm Sava river, 11pm • Tijana T / Garden of §, Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana • DJ Iyan Milles, Freestyler, • Dee, Dooshan and Goran Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Serbian artist Aleksandra Đinđiđa 179, 8pm boat on Sava river, 11pm Starčević, Lasta boat on Stefana 115, 11pm Prhal is known for combining MONDAY JUNE 19th • Oysha, Peppe and Miloš Sava river, 11pm • Blow Up Friday, Shake and KOLARAC photography with painting , Ilija M. Starčević, Lasta boat on • Somebody Call the Doctor, Shake, boat on Sava river, PROGRAMME and other types of art and 12. Festival of Early Music technology but with her new Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg Sava river, 11pm Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm 5, 8pm exhibition - Pardon My Low- • Somebody Call the Doctor, 11pm • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava Kristina Krstić, piano, Serbian Res #3 - she is going back to Academy of Sciences and Arts, Knez Club 94, boat on Sava river, • DJ Vuk, Shake and Shake, river, 11pm pure photography with images Mihailova 35, 6pm 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm • ALIEN ALIEN, 20/44, boat Nikolajević-Kršić, piano, Italian FRIDAY, JUNE 16TH TUESDAY, JUNE 20TH that have all been taken on a Cultural Centre, Kneza Miloša 56, 8pm • DJ Dooshan, Shake and • DJ Prema, Industrija Bar, on Sava River, 11pm smartphone instead of expen- Shake, boat on Sava river, Karađorđeva 23, 11pm • Dobul BassVs. Divolly & Concert Hall, 8pm Music Gallery, 6pm sive photography equipment. TUESDAY JUNE 20th Belgrade Philharmonic Or- Cycle: Encounter with an Art- 11pm • DJ Lucky, Witch Bar, Pariska Markward, Freestyler, boat chestra ist / VLADA MARS, piano The exhibition will be open Opera: Traviata (Verdi), The National th • Pure Cream, Club 94, boat 13, 10pm on Sava river, 11pm For Beginners 5 Production: Music Centre until Tuesday, June 20 at the Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm Conductor: Admission free Prozor Art Lovers Association Cycle: Encounter with an Artist / on Sava river, 11pm • Somebody Call the Doctor, Uroš Lajovic in Takovska Street. Vlada Mars, piano, Ilija M. Kolarac • SAJSI MC, KPTM, Žorža Club 94, boat on Sava river, SATURDAY JUNE 24th Soloist: WEDNESDAY, JUNE 21ST Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm István Várdai, violoncello Klemansoa 22, 6pm 11pm Programme: Music Gallery, Concert Hall, Todorović WEDNESDAY JUNE 21st • DJ Borcenzzy, Witch Bar, • 39.2 • KPTM, KPTM, Žorža • Somebody Call the Doctor, L. van Beethoven: Symphony 6pm exhibition at No. 3 (Eroica) WORLD DAY OF MUSIC Opera: Norma (Bellini), The National Pariska 13, 10pm Klemansoa 22, 11pm Club 94, boat on Sava river, J. Haydn: Concerto for Violon- Soloist: Ernest So, piano Applied Arts Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm cello and Orchestra in C major Programme: Philharmonic promises • Body'n'Balls / Trole / Vlada • Schwabe (Disco not Disco / 11pm Museum World Day of Music, Ilija M. Kolarac P. I. Tchaikovsky: Overture 1812 Whirl and Swirl Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Russ / Toyger, 20/44, boat Tapan), 20/44, boat on Sava • Special House, Freestyler, Production: Belgrade Philhar- Jazz Inspired Piano Recital on Sava River, 11pm River, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm monic Orchestra Programme: Gershwin, Known for her poignant work ‘largest-ever' open-air THURSDAY JUNE 22nd Kapustin,M.P. Armengol, Tani- that constantly evolves over • Connected with Nakadia TH SATURDAY, JUNE 17 kawa, Say time, Serbian artist Nina Ballet: The Sleeping Beauty SATURDAY JUNE 17th SUNDAY JUNE 18th / Nusha / Lea Dobričić / Production: Music Centre (Tchaikovsky), The National Theatre, Concert Hall, 8pm Admission free Todorović is back with a new concert Francuska 1, 7:30pm Nevena Jeremić, Barutana, RTS Symphony Orchestra – exhibition called Mapping ND Chicago Youth Symphony • Yokono live at Dev9t • DJ Architect, Club 94, boat Kalemegdan Fortress, 11pm Szymon Nehring, piano THURSDAY, JUNE 22 Orchestra, Ilija M. Kolarac Soloists: Deconstruction. A continua- festival, Ciglana klub, on Sava river, 11pm tion of one of her most popular New chief conductor Gabriel Feltz and the Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra. Photo: Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Szymon Nehring, piano Concert Hall, 8pm Lazar Muhadinović, flute and Slanački put 26, 10pm MONDAY JUNE 26th Programme: CHICAGO YOUTH SYMPHONY works, Architecture of Memory, Marko Boganović, piano, Serbian Beethoven, Schubert, Chopin ORCHESTRA th the new exhibit is focused on Academy of Sciences and Arts, Knez MONDAY JUNE 19 Production: RTS Music Pro- Conductor: Allen Tinkham ious to meet the audience from all over The compositions that won the most snapshots of homes that have Mihailova 35, 6pm • Monday Blues, Dom duction Programme: The Belgrade Phil- Serbia and the region," Feltz said. votes include Danzon no. 2 by the Mexi- Ticket fee: 600, 800, 1.000 A.Dvořák: Carnival - Overture, been demolished, or simply rd • Monday Jazz, Garaža, Omladine, Makedonska 22, dinars Op.92, B The concert venue is in New Bel- can composer Arturo Marquez, fol- FRIDAY JUNE 23 Edward Elgar: In the South removed, in Belgrade and other harmonic Orches- grade's Block 13, which is also the site lowed by Dmitri Shostakovitch's waltz, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 49, 8:30pm The State Russian Folk Orchestra N. SUNDAY, JUNE 18TH (Alasio) - Overture, Op. 50 Serbian cities. The exhibition of the planned new Belgrade Philhar- Danse Macabre by the French com- 8pm • EKV 20live17 special: P.I. Tchaikovsky: Symphony th tra hopes to attract P. Osipov, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, runs until Tuesday, June 27 at monic Orchestra's concert hall. The poser Camille Saint-Saëns, Grlica (Tur- Studentski Trg 5, 8:30pm • Monday Blues, Dom Deca iz vode i Raka (EKV), Concert Hall, 11am No. 6 in B minor, Op. 74, (The the Applied Arts Museum. Kolarac Podium of Chamber Passionate Symphony) tens of thousands public tender for designs for the new tledove) by Serbian late romanticist Opera: Vladimir and Kosara Omladine, Makedonska 22, Božidarac, Radoslava Music - Belgrade Symphony Free tickets can be pur- concert hall closed in January this year, Stevan Hristic and Gioachino Rossini's (Divjaković), The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm 8:30pm Grujića 3, 8:30pm Conductor: Radan Jovanović chased at The Ticket Office of Japanizam to its grand open- so a construction timetable has not yet William Tell. Soloist: Igor Lazić, horn Kolarac th • DJ Marchez, Club 94, boat • DJ Marchez, Club 94, boat Production: Music Centre celebrates 10 been announced. Other works that will be performed SATURDAY JUNE 24th on Sava river, 11pm on Sava river, 11pm Admission free FRIDAY, JUNE 23RD anniversary air concert this The orchestra is currently based at include Aram Khachaturian's Sabre the Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment build- Dance, Maurice Ravel's Bolero, Richard Opera: Othello (Verdi), The National TH Theatre, Francuska 1, 7pm FREE COPY MONDAY, JUNE 19 Concert Hall, 8:30pm The biggest Serbian festival month. ing in central Belgrade. Wagner's Ride of the Valkyries, Pyotr Ily- TUESDAY JUNE 20th TUESDAY JUNE 27th The State Russian Folk Orches- Old Serbian Songs and Folklore Concert Hall, 8pm tra N. P. Osipov related to all things Japanese, Famous Indian-born maestro Zubin ich Tchaikovsky's Waltz of the Flowers, from Kosovo and Metohija, Ilija M. 12. Festival of Early Music Production: Music Play Mehta, music director of the Israel Phil- Edvard Grieg's In the Hall of the Moun- Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Japanizam, is celebrating • Escape-ism (Ian • DJ Vlada, Freestyler, boat on Conductor: Predrag Gosta Ticket fee: 1800, 1500, 1200 harmonic Orchestra, will be joining the tain King, Carmen by Georges Bizet, and 5, 8pm Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Soloists of New Belgrade dinars its tenth birthday at Dom open-air concert as a special guest of John Williams' popular Imperial March th Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Svenonius) + Kristy and Sava river, 11pm Opera: Omladine. The festival will run SUNDAY JUNE 25 B. Bulatović, S. Manojlović, A. SATURDAY JUNE 24TH nd th Filip RUDIĆ the Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra. from the Star Wars movies. Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić the Kraks, Elektropionir, from June 22 to 25 and will Brkić, R. Vorgić, D. Popović The Belgrade Philharmonic said it The Philharmonic has not revealed "Dušan Trifunović" Philharmonic Cetinjska 15, 8:30pm WEDNESDAY JUNE 28th be held across both floors of BIRN editorial team: Programme: G.F. Hendel/Op- Concert Hall, 8pm eaded by new chief con- was proud to present Mehta's perfor- which compositions will be played dur- Orchestra of Guitars, Ilija M. Kolarac Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, • Howe Gelb, Dom Omladine, era „Orlando" Old Serbian Songs and Folklore the venue featuring panels, Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am Ticket fee: 300, 500 dinars from Kosovo i Metohija workshops, lectures, film ductor Gabriel Feltz, the mance as a "special gift to the national ing the encore. [email protected] Makedonska 22, 9pm • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat Belgrade Philharmonic Or- and regional audiences". Tickets for Belgrade Philharmonic th screenings, video games, art MONDAY JUNE 26 Sales & Marketing: Marija • DJ Vlada, Freestyler, boat on Sava river, 11pm chestra is hoping to draw "I am very pleased that the long-time Orchestra performances usually sell Petrović exhibitions, cosplay competi- H Ljubica Sekulić, harp, Serbian tens of thousands of people at an open- dream of all people in Serbia who wish out very quickly each season. It sold on Sava river, 11pm • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, tions and more besides. Phone: +381 11 4030 302 air concert featuring classical composi- for a new concert hall is on the way to 20,000 tickets for the 2017/18 season in Academy of Sciences and Arts, Knez • Slap & Tickle – Dea, Danijel Shake and Shake, boat on Mihailova 35, 6pm [email protected] tions selected by the public in an online becoming reality. I am happy to par- just four weeks. Čerhanov, Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm European Subscription & Distribution: vote. ticipate in laying down its ‘musical cor- This is the first season for the newly- TUESDAY JUNE 27th Goran Knezevic Sava river, 11pm Literature Festival at The event will be held on Sunday, nerstone' at the grand spectacle that appointed chief conductor, Gabriel +381 11 4030 303 • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, THURSDAY JUNE 29th Dom Omladine June 25th near the Palace of Serbia the Belgrade Philharmonic is holding," Feltz, who will lead the orchestra for the Ballet: Who is Singing Over There (Kostić), The National Theatre, [email protected] Shake and Shake, boat on building in New Belgrade. Entrance is Zubin Mehta said in comments pub- next four years. Feltz was born in 1971 Modern Serbian Cuisine, Mediterranean and Italian cuisine The 6th Annual Belgrade Eu- Francuska 1, 7:30pm Sava river, 11pm • Oleg Kireyev Band, SERBIAN CUISINE THROUGH CENTURIES free of charge. lished on the Belgrade Philharmonic's in Berlin and was previously musical ropean Literature Festival will Feltz says he hopes the event, which website. director of the Dortmund Opera and th Printing: POLITIKA štamparija Restaurant Amphora, WEDNESDAY JUNE 28 take place at Dom Omladine is being billed as Serbia's largest ever Maestro Mehta will perform the chief conductor of the Dortmund Phil- d.o.o. nd THURSDAY JUNE 22 Bulevar Nikole Tesle bb, from June 27th to 30th. Accord- open-air classical music concert, will Finale of Ludwig Van Beethoven's 5th harmonic. Winners Concert of Solo singers ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight Competition Lazar Jovanović, Ilija Zemunski kej, 9pm attract new audiences from across the Symphony at the "triumphant" end of He was also the chief conductor of COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 ing to event organisers Arhi- M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski country. the open-air concert, the Belgrade Phil- the Altenburg-Gera Philharmonic and Circulation: 4,000 • Krcko and Lefty Beatzz, • Bebel Gilberto, Bitefartcafe pelag Publishing, the festival Trg 5, 6pm Bitefartcafe summer stage, summer stage, Mali Reservations: +381 11 2607436, www.vagon-victoria.rs boasts an exciting programme "I am fascinated with the subscribers harmonic said. Stuttgart Philharmonic. He has worked THURSDAY JUNE 29th Mali Kalemegdan 2, 9pm Kalemegdan 2, 9pm Location: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 44a, New Belgrade of debates, films, art exhibits to the Belgrade Philharmonic, whom I As many as 17,397 music lovers an- with various orchestras in Germany, Working Hours: Mon-Sun 8 a.m. - 1 a.m. meet at our regular concerts. I feel we swered the call to vote for composi- Switzerland, Denmark, Austria, Bel- and more. Italian scholar and Momčilo Tomić, piano, Serbian writer Claudio Magris will be share a special bond that I deeply care tions to be included in the concert's gium, Ireland, but also China and South Academy of Sciences and Arts, Knez special guest this year. about. That is why I am especially anx- programme. Korea. Mihailova 35, 6pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 15 GOING OUT NOW AND THEN Azbuka Manners and etiquette In a slightly posh locale for young Serbian ladies with great live In the early 20th music on most Century, young nights, Azbuka women were is a hidden city taught a complex centre gem. set of rules for greeting people, David GALIĆ today they usually hile it's found in one simply nod, shake of the busiest streets of Belgrade, in the so- hands or hug. Wcalled Terazije section of the city centre, you won't be able to see Azbuka from the street. That's be- cause it's actually tucked away in an Gordana ANDRIĆ almost hidden passage way. But once you find it, you'll be really glad you did. 1900 Especially during the summer, Azbuka is a very pleasant place to do just about ore than one hundred anything from grabbing a bite for lunch years ago, young ladies to going out on a date in the evening. in Belgrade had to follow While there might not be a dress Mcomplex rules on how to code, you should certainly put a little greet people that varied according to more effort into your appearance if gender, age and where they met. you don't want to stick out like a sore On entering a room, young women thumb in Azbuka. During the summer, were expected to bow to everyone, all of the action is outside. The bar in- before kissing the hand of the hostess There is live music in Azbuka just about every night. Photo: Facbook/Azbuka habits a courtyard that's in the middle or mother. Next, she would greet every- of a few residential buildings. It's a bit the summer. The design of the entire intention of having a light dinner with is loud enough to enjoy, it's never too they are in some of the elite clubs, but one else by kissing the hand of any one weird to see people coming in and out club is very minimal and casual. friends or lunch with business associ- loud to talk over. You won't really find they are certainly a bit more expensive older than her or offering her hand to Discreet shoe-fitting device. Photo: Flickr/Paul Townsend of their buildings through the cafe, but The courtyard is filled with wooden ates. people dancing to the music at Azbuka than in most cafes and bars in the city younger guests. having a popular cafe in their entrance tables and chairs, some larger for peo- Another key element of the cafe is either. The bands are really just back- centre. Overall, it's an excellent place for Young women were not to offer their “If two girlfriends encounter one an- 2017 Three kisses on the cheeks comes from In the business world, the most com- is probably more of a distraction for the ple who want to eat and smaller for the music. There is live music in Az- ground music, which is great because anyone looking for something that is a hand to anyone older than themselves other in the street, they should greet the Christian Holy Trinity – the belief that mon greeting is a simple handshake. Un- residents than having residents walk- those who are only there for drinks. buka just about every night. The bands not many cafes are willing to pay re- little more upscale while still remaining or, perish the thought, to men. [while] walking by. It is not nice, not Today the rules are far more flexible and God includes the Father, Son and Holy Spirit. like back in 1900, the hand should not be ing through the place is for Azbuka's The indoor area of the cafe is very that play Azbuka are all pretty stellar, ally good bands to serve as background fairly casual and relaxed. It has good However, if a gentlemen they already even for older, never mind young wom- greetings depend on how well and long Some ethnologists say that for Serbs, the softly placed in someone else’s palm. Many patrons. similar. Two main areas, one with a playing mostly jazz and blues music, music for the patrons. food, good music and a nice selection knew offered his hand first, young en to pause [stop] on the pavement,” you have known a person, how you know three-kiss greeting has additional meaning believe handshakes reveal character and a Since it is a very residential and cen- large bar as the dominant feature and but also funk and pop. Certainly, you In terms of the people who visit Az- of wines and cocktails, all set in a very women were advised to remain calm is the rather stern advice given by the one another and how much you like each – the first kiss to celebrate life, the second limp one will not leave a good impression. tral area of the city, Azbuka isn't really a another that again is mainly for tables won't be hearing any Serbian music buka, it can be said that the crowd is a pleasant courtyard in the centre of Bel- and take the hand – without shaking or girls’ schoolbook. other. to pay respect to the dead and the third for Hold the hand firmly but don’t ‘do a Trump’ night club. It's only open until midnight of varying sizes. here. One great thing about the bands bit older with deeper pockets. It's a pop- grade. tightening the grasp - and slightly bend Greetings in passing were anything Friends usually hug and kiss once on honour. and squeeze it too tightly. during the week and one hour longer Though food is one of Azbuka's key that play is that they seem to know ular place for foreign visitors but also their right knee. but simple, and girls who failed to learn the cheek when they meet, men might kiss However, while many Serbs believe In business meetings, you should greet on the weekends. But that doesn't attractions, it really isn't a restaurant. their roles better than most bands that expats living in Belgrade. Foreign busi- “Women do not lend their hand to the etiquette as children were expected one another less often, but it is not uncom- the three-kiss greeting has existed since those already present on entering the mean that it's not a great place to go out Most of the dishes are pretty light, play clubs and cafes in Belgrade. nesspeople and embassy workers like AZBUKA men, they give it as a sign of friend- to practice in front of the mirror. mon. This goes for close friends as well as forever, the head teacher of the Higher In- room. Older people should offer to shake on any night of the week. sandwiches, salads and the like, rather In Azbuka, the bands always play Azbuka, as do Serbian businesspeople, Kralja Milana 2 ship,” states a 1900 school book for “This is how to greet in passing: at the for people with whom you may not be up stitute for Girls’ Education would likely be hands with younger people first. Men As already mentioned, the outdoor than meals. But the food is good and a at a very decent volume and never entertainers and athletes. Contact: +381 11 4077364 young women, written by Ljubica moment when we are two steps away close and personal, but simply want to ex- shocked at the very idea of all those kisses should be the first to verbally greet wom- courtyard is where the action is over lot of people come to Azbuka with the dominate. So even though the music The drink prices aren't as high as www.facebook.com/azbukagastroprogres Sladojevićeva, a head teacher of Bel- from the person we want to greet, stop press friendliness. flying around. en but usually women decide if they will grade’s Higher Institute for Girls Educa- the right foot and glide the left foot to Acquaintances usually just shake In fact, the three-kiss greeting came into shake hands or simply nod. tion. the right – the greeting lasts exactly as hands. But if meeting an acquaintance or a regular use in the second half of the 20th In formal situations, both sexes are ex- Young ladies had to navigate a simi- long as we need to do this,” the book new person within a group of friends who Century and some have connected it to pected to stand when greeting anyone Dorćol Platz's Bad Music Boogaloo Bitefartcafe's Summer Stage lar set of rules when leaving a room. explains. all hug or kiss – it is acceptable to replace a nationalist sentiment that sought to under- older than themselves. Men should stand They were expected to first say good- “At the same time as gliding the left handshake with a hug and kiss to greet a line differences between Serbs and other when greeting women. bye to the mother or hostess, bow to foot to the right, the upper part of the person the same way as everyone else. ex-Yugoslav republics. Still, as in most parts of the world, the ad Music Boogaloo is a two-day event organised by the Bad he Bitefartcafe's Summer Stage, located on the everyone individually and then bow body should lean forward, shoulders If Serbs kiss in more formal situations – In buildings, people are expected to rules of etiquette are not that strictly ap- Music for Bad People booking agency taking place at Dorćol tennis courts of the Kalemegdan Fortress, once again to all present at the door. straight, head slightly - very slightly - like meeting cousins for a family reunion, greet everyone they meet, including in plied in Serbia. Failing to follow them th th Platz on June 16 and 17 . It will feature a fantastic line-up is one of the coolest summer venues for On the street, the whole procedure tilted and with our eyes looking at the birthdays, weddings or in some cases even elevators where they acknowledge each would rarely cause offense. Indeed, few of American underground garage rock and Americana great live music. June is a special month was far shorter. face of a person we are greeting.” business events - they kiss three times. other on entering and leaving. people would even notice. with three US bands, as well as local support acts. because it will feature a performance by BThe first night will feature American headliners Scott H. Biram, Tthe legendary American-Brazilian singer Bebel Gil- James Leg, and Slim Cessna's Auto Club. Following up on an electric berto on Thursday, June 29th. Playing with her new performance last year in Belgrade, Slim Cessna is definitely the must- trio, the Grammy-nominated star will be bringing her watch act of the night, playing a very dark, scary style of American own style of smooth bossa nova to Belgrade. Tickets folk punk that Denver is very well known for producing. The second for the event cost €11 or €15 at the door depending on night will be headlined by The Shivas, Death Valley Girls and the Leg- seating. endary Shack Shakers. Tickets for both nights cost €32, while a one-night Hip hop/funk live group Krcko & Lefty Beatzz will take ticket will set you back €18 at the door. the stage a week earlier on Thursday, June 22nd.

AIRLINE TICKETS Arsenal Fest puts Kragujevac on map FOR THE WHOLE WORLD Not all great music festivals in Serbia take Belgrade Berlin Dub Kanda Kodža i place in Belgrade and Novi Sad. Arsenal Connection at KC Grad Nebojša bring Šlep to life Black Merlin at 20/44 Fest in Kragujevac has become a popular Greek and Macedonian rockers one in recent years, boasting an impressive A collective of musicians from Berlin, It's June, which means the parties have unite at Elektropionir Electronic artist George Thompson, lineup of both foreign and domestic acts. Cologne and Belgrade will be collabo- all officially moved down to the river. known as Black Merlin, has recently This year, the headliners will be American rating on stage at KC Grad on Saturday, One of the more popular alternative Greek psychedelic rockers Naxatras created a critically-acclaimed album of thrash metal titans Anthrax playing on July 1st at the Belgrade Berlin Dub Con- river clubs, Šlep, will be hosting popu- play heavy rock with tonnes of trippy dark and brooding ambient music cre- Thursday, June 22nd, down-tempo electron- nection. After four days of jamming, lar Serbian rock band Kanda Kodža solos and fat grooves. They will be ated from field records compiled and ic legends Thievery Corporation on Friday they will be presenting their collabora- i Nebojša, who will be playing their playing Thursday, June 29th at Elektro- put together while living in Bali. He will and street performer-turned-concert attrac- tive music, which should be a nice mix psychedelic style of alternative rock on pionir with Macedonian instrumental be playing at 20/44 on Saturday, July tion Dub DX on Saturday. A ticket for all of afro-beat and reggae sounds. Tickets Thursday, June 29th on the river Sava. post rockers Khara. Tickets cost eight 29th with local DJ Schwabe as support. three days costs €20, while individual day www.flyflytravel.com cost six euros at the door. Tickets are six euros at the door. euros at the door. Tickets cost five euros. tickets cost €11. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, June 16 - Thursday, June 29, 2017 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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