Vila Obrenovica: Four ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR Former Royal Rooftop +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] Home with Bars - ISSN 1820-8339 1 Tumultuous Past to Visit BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 Page 10 Page 13

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Issue No. 252 Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

SERBIA-KOSOVO page 5 STALEMATE

ALLOWS FUGITIVES conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party TO STAY FREE E

Serbia and Kosovo have become refuges Friday • June 13 2008 for each other’s criminals and fugitives, allowing suspected murderers, drug THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED dealers and organ-traffickers to evade on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. justice by crossing the border. T

Faith BAILEY, Kreshnik GASHI, eration between Serbia and Kosovo, Jelena COSIC, Serbeze HAXHIAJ which declared independence in 2008 but is not recognised by Belgrade. hen the time came On paper, EU and UN initiatives have for Kosovo doctor paved the way for police cooperation, Lutfi Dervishi and intelligence exchanges and recognition his son Arban to be of international arrest warrants. imprisoned in 2016 But in practice, suspected murderers forW one of the Balkans’ most gruesome and drug dealers are sidestepping jus- post-war crimes, the pair had vanished. tice by crossing the border, safe in the BIRN can reveal that Kosovo Police knowledge that there has never been a believe the urologist and his son, sus- successful case of extradition between pected of operating an organ-trafficking Kosovo and Serbia. One doctor suspect- ring from the Medicus clinic in Pristina ed of carrying out illegal IVF treatment and currently on retrial, had slipped in Kosovo has even been offering her across the border into Serbia. services after fleeing police to Serbia. In doing so, they joined a growing number of bail and jail dodgers taking advantage of the lack of security coop- Continued on pages 2 and 3 Suspected murderers and drug dealers are sidestepping justice by crossing the Serbia-Kosovo border, safely Graphic Design: Trembelat knowing that there has never been a successful case of extradition between Kosovo and Serbia.

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Serbia-Kosovo Stalemate Allows Fugitives to Stay Free he families of those still For example, a deal meant to prevent missing from the Kosovo Serbia from blocking Kosovo’s mem- conflict also complain that bership of regional organisations has their search for loved ones not stopped Belgrade from countering and justice is being seri- Pristina’s attempt to join Europol, In- Tously hampered by the lack of coopera- terpol and a host of other regional law- tion. enforcement organisations. Serbia’s Justice Ministry, the Kosovo Neither side has however attempted Police and the EU rule-of-law mission to place security cooperation on the in Kosovo, EULEX, have said that there agenda of their talks in Brussels, ac- has been a regular flow of information cording to the EU. between Pristina and Belgrade in re- This stalemate means Pristina re- cent years. But interviews with officials mains reliant on international organi- working for EU and Kosovo institutions, sations for a great deal of rule-of-law as well as analysts who have studied cooperation, much to the anger of Ko- the issue, suggest the process is fraught sovo officials. with difficulties and rarely results in de- Kosovo still relies on the UN Mission cisive action. in Kosovo, UNMIK, deployed in the This is largely because Serbia refuses wake of the conflict in 1999, to issue to even tacitly recognise Kosovo’s inde- international arrest warrants, known pendence, but is also a result of the mis- as red notices, while the EU rule-of-law trust and ill feeling that has built up on mission liaises with Europol. Both UN- both sides, they explain. MIK and EULEX are also mandated to “By exercising non-cooperation on facilitate communication between Ko- legal and security matters, we contin- sovo and Serbia’s police forces. ue to consider both countries as ‘safe In 2011, Kosovo also established an zones’ for criminals,” Florian Qehaja of International Law Enforcement Coor- the Kosovo Centre for Security Studies dination Unit within the Kosovo Police think-tank told BIRN. as part of an EU-funded project to cre- ate a network of such units across the A SUSPECTED ORGAN Western Balkans through which the TRAFFICKER’S BOLTHOLE forces can cooperate. While information from the Coor- In March 2016, the Pristina court of dination Unit cannot be used as evi- appeal upheld guilty verdicts against dence in court, this backdoor channel Medicus clinic doctor Lutfi Dervishi has resulted in a rare case of coopera- and his son Arban. tion. After a request from the Serbian The two men were ordered to pre- police, two murder suspects were ar- sent themselves at a prison to serve rested in Kosovo on unrelated drug lengthy jail terms for harvesting the offences and then deported. They organs of dozens of vulnerable victims were left in no-man’s-land at the border for transplants at the, now, notorious where they were then arrested by Ser- Pristina clinic - but the urologist and his bian police, according to Bojan Elek’s Lutfi Dervishi (pictured) fled Kosovo, but police in Pristina have now revealed that he crossed the border into Serbia, where he remains in hiding Photo: Kallxo.com despite the existence of an international ‘red notice’ issued through the Interpol office of the UN Mission in Kosovo. son have disappeared. report. Nothing is known about how the Der- After its deployment in 2008, EULEX all, all sides had been dissatisfied with transfer of information had been “re- in Kosovo, but we could not provide vishis fled Kosovo, but police in Pristina was charged with handling written legal cooperation between Kosovo ally slow”. such information to them because this Gjina Zeqiri, a gynaecologist who is suspected of a string of offences by the Kosovo Police related to her clinic Global Hospital, escaped to Serbia, Photo: BIRN Kosovo WAR VICTIMS’ have now revealed that they believe from where she was able to offer services through an Albanian and Serbian language website, although she denies ever having any clients. communication between Pristina and and Serbia, adding that while the ad- While EULEX was successful in se- is under the Kosovo prosecution’s re- the two men crossed the border into Belgrade, known as Mutual Legal Assis- ministrative process had been smooth, curing extraditions from some coun- sponsibility,” he added. FAMILIES WAIT Serbia, where they remained in hiding where she was able to offer similar ser- She said she cannot return to Kosovo Serbia after being found guilty of drug Kosovo, and “has never arrested per- tance, and was also required to step in tries that do not recognise Kosovo, “Having seen that Serbia is not will- FOR ANSWERS despite the existence of an internation- vices through an Albanian and Serbian because she believes she will not re- smuggling, and was handed a three- sons who were wanted by the authori- to mediate cases of extradition to and such as Slovakia and Bosnia and Her- ing to cooperate, we have decided to al ‘red notice’, issued through the Inter- language website, although she denies ceive a fair trial. year prison sentence when he was ar- ties in Kosovo”. from states which do not recognise Ko- zegovina, there have been no extradi- not answer their requests.” In the village of Suhodoll i Poshtem/ pol office of the UN Mission in Kosovo. ever having any clients. “I wanted to reopen the clinic but I rested in Kosovo in March 2015 based “In general, there is lack of coopera- sovo’s independence. tions between Kosovo and Serbia, as But the Justice Ministry in Belgrade Donji Suvi Do, a suburb of the divided “According to our information, both In February 2014, Zeqiri had regis- have been blocked and I am waiting to on a Serbian arrest warrant. Again, tion in investigating various penal acts, EULEX said the failure by both sides Pristina and Belgrade have not yet con- rejected the accusation that there was city of Mitrovica in northern Kosovo, L.D. and his son A. were on the territory tered a Serbian company called Global see what is happening in Kosovo,” she Kosovo Police told BIRN that Serbia de- and especially ones that have to do to agree to Mutual Legal Assistance cluded an agreement on this. no cooperation. In a letter to BIRN, the forensics teams continue to explore a of Serbia and were hiding there from IVF in Bujanovac, a town near the Koso- said. “There is no state interested in [al- clined to request his extradition. with investigating cases such as smug- procedures held back cooperation These administrative problems and ministry press office said, “From the mass grave, searching for answers for the Kosovo justice system,” Kosovo vo border whose population is majority lowing me to work] as I am a victim of a Kosovo Police said that a third crimi- gling of migrants or terrorism,” the until 2013, when information began blurred lines have again been illus- last year alone, the data shows that the families of the missing. Police spokesperson Hoxha told BIRN, ethnic Albanian, and a month later she non-functional state like Kosovo.” nal suspect, Aleksandar Vukadinovic, spokesman added. to flow. But the situation again dete- trated by recent public statements on there have been 316 requests for le- Bajram Qerkini has been searching for referring to Lutfi Dervishi and his son began renting an office in the town. Ze- The Basic Court in Pristina ordered was arrested in Kosovo in February riorated in October 2014, when Serbia Kosovo-Serbia cooperation over the gal assistance in both directions. The By exercising his son since 1999. He was 30 when Arban. qiri is originally from the area. the issue of an international warrant for 2016, a month after an Interpol red no- ASSASSINATION BECOMES refused to recognise the handover of murder of Oliver Ivanovic. While Ko- requests cover all criminal acts, war he was taken by Serbian forces in the It is not clear, however, whether this Nexhat Behluli, the owner of the her arrest in June 2017, but Kosovo’s Jus- tice was issued by Serbia accusing him NEW TEST CASE the mandate to the EU Special Rep- non- sovo institutions said that there is an crimes, organised crime and terror- centre of Mitrovica. Qerkini has long information was passed on to Serbia, property rented by Zeqiri, said that tice Ministry declined to say whether an of “bribery and corruption”. resentative Office in Pristina, which it exchange of information through the ism.” chaired an association of families of because EULEX, UNMIK and Serbia’s initially she was selling medical equip- Interpol ‘red notice’ has been issued. According to Serbian media, Vukadi- Nowhere is the rule-of-law failure deemed was not neutral on the issue of two countries’ justice ministries and “Lastly, it is necessary to emphasise missing persons, but in 2017 he joined and Kosovo’s justice ministries de- ment but that in May of that year, she Kosovo and Serbia institutions de- novic was found guilty of being part of more palpable than in northern Koso- Kosovo’s independence. cooperation via “international judicial coopera- that there are no legal obstacles to co- forces with Milorad Trifunovic, a Serb from Kosovo, to establish the Missing clined to comment on this. transformed the office into an IVF clinic. clined to comment on the case while an organised crime group involved in vo, which has not been fully under the Belgrade insisted that requests tion”, Serbia said EULEX was mediating operation, if there is the political will,” Persons Resource Centre. In January 2017, Lutfi Dervishi re-en- “I warned her that I didn’t want her Zeqiri told BIRN that she continues to smuggling textiles and other goods into control of either Pristina or Belgrade should continue to be routed via EU- on legal the transfer of intelligence. the letter added. tered Kosovo after the Supreme Court to have a [IVF] practice here, and in travel freely. Serbia from Turkey and other coun- since the end of the war in 1999. LEX, resulting in a period of around EULEX told BIRN that it was help- “We emphasise that the Ministry of Both men pinpoint the lack of com- ordered a retrial. He was swiftly arrest- our agreement we said that she will tries. He was arrested in 2006 and sen- The investigation into the assassina- 12 months during which communica- and security ing with the case by liaising between Justice of the so-called state Kosovo munication between Serbia and ed, but Arban is believed to still be in sell medical equipment and not have a NO EXTRADITION FOR tenced to two years and three months tion of Serb politician Oliver Ivanovic, tion, officially, at least, stopped. The -im Kosovo Police and the Serbian interior has directly refused to act upon re- Kosovo as a key factor in preventing Serbia, according to police. clinic,” he said. MURDER SUSPECT in prison in 2012, according to reports. gunned down outside his party’s office passe was solved when Belgrade said it matters, we ministry. quests from the Serbian Prosecution them from finding their loved ones The retrial of Lutfi Dervishi started in After she refused to amend her con- Kosovo Police claimed that Pristina in the divided town of Mitrovica in Jan- would accept requests if they came via Kosovo and Serbia’s justice minis- over war crimes,” it insisted. and other missing persons from the war. July 2017 and is ongoing. tract, he put new locks on the door. Ze- It is not just suspects from Kosovo had informed Serbian police of his ar- uary, is now providing a fresh test of the the EU Delegation in Belgrade, accord- continue to tries told BIRN that they had received A source in the Serbian judiciary qiri then unsuccessfully sued Behluli who have taken advantage of the lack rest, and that Belgrade law enforcers limited cooperation between the two ing to an assessment paid for by the EU. some information from each other. said that this statement referred specif- “We came together as Albanians, WANTED IVF MEDIC FLEES to recover the money she had invested. of rule-of-law cooperation between then requested that Vukadinovic be countries. But BIRN has also discovered that consider both ically to Serbia’s controversial attempt Serbs, Roma and Ashkali families to According to court documents ob- Pristina and Belgrade to escape justice. taken informally to the nearest border “Law enforcement cooperation be- during this hiatus, with official requests ‘NO COOPERATION MEANS to extradite Kosovo Prime Minister ask for the truth about their fate. But Another doctor who took advantage tained by BIRN, Zeqiri was carrying out BIRN has found three cases in which point. As Vukadinovic also held Ko- tween Serbia and Kosovo is orchestrat- from the EU office in Pristina piling up NO JUSTICE’ Ramush Haradinaj on charges of war we cannot do too much alone, with- of the legal loophole to sidestep the Ko- IVF treatment and abortions at the cen- Kosovo Police arrested individuals sovo citizenship, Kosovo Police were ed through a jumble of international at the Serbian Justice Ministry, dupli- countries as crimes. out the cooperation of the two sides sovo authorities is Gjina Zeqiri, a gynae- tre with a licence from Serbia’s Ministry either wanted or convicted of serious unable to deport him. organisations and half-implemented cates of at least ten Mutual Legal Assis- Kosovo Special Prosecutor Reshat Elek predicted that cooperation [Belgrade and Pristina],” said Qerkini. cologist and founder of the Global Hos- of Health, although she denies this. crimes in Serbia, only for them to be “Based on the responses for all the agreements - all impeded by political tance cases were resent to the ministry ‘safe zones’ for Millaku, who is in charge of the most over the investigation into Ivanovic’s His colleague, Trifunovic, spoke with pital, a Pristina clinic which specialised Despite these setbacks, in Decem- released. above-mentioned cases, the response antagonism and mistrust,” Bojan Elek, in Belgrade from EULEX, even though serious cases, including war crimes murder and the fight against organised the same anger about the search for in IVF treatment. ber, after her escape from Kosovo, the Kosovo Police said that Ernad Bise- was the same: that Serbia will not re- author of a 2015 report on Kosovo- its mandate had technically expired. criminals and high-level corruption, said that co- crime is unlikely to bear fruit in the cur- his brother, who went missing in 1999. In November 2014, her clinic was website globalivf.net was registered, vac, wanted in Serbia for murder since quire its citizens’ extradition from Ko- Serbia cooperation published by the “In order for some very important operation between prosecutor’s offices rent situation. He was 32 and disappeared a day raided by Kosovo Police, who suspect- through which she continues to offer 2012, was arrested in Kosovo in Sep- sovo. It is believed that this has to do Belgrade Centre for Security Policy, told cases on war crimes and organised in Kosovo and Serbia is almost impos- “There is definitely obstruction on before his wedding. ed Zeqiri of a string of offences, includ- her infertility services in Albanian and tember 2014, but that the Serbian au- with the non-recognition of Kosovo by BIRN. crime, which were dealt with by inter- sible. both sides, as far as I can tell, hence the ing allowing parents to choose the sex Serbian language through “regional thorities stated they would not request Serbia,” said police spokesman Daut EU-brokered talks between the coun- national prosecutors and judges, to be “If there is no cooperation, there can- overwhelming belief among the Serbs “There are 1,658 missing persons and we are waiting to know where they of their child for a fee, buying sperm and international clinics”, as well as on- extradition. Bisevac was released and Hoxha. tries, which began in 2011, have pro- worked on, we tacitly agreed that EU- not be justice for victims,” Millaku said. in Kosovo that this [Ivanovic] case will are. Five hundred and sixty of them and eggs from vulnerable people, and line consultations. was free for a further year before he BIRN was unable to confirm the fate duced some tangible results around LEX Belgrade would send a copy of the “We are constantly asking for coopera- be unresolved, like so many others,” are Serbs,” Trifunovic said. employing unlicensed embryologists, Zeqiri, who insists she is innocent of was detained in Serbia. He is currently of Vulicevic and Vukadinovic following issues such as freedom of movement, subject [request], while the original was tion with the Serbia prosecution, not Elek said. according to an indictment issued by the charges against her, told BIRN that serving a 16-year prison sentence for their release as Serbia’s Interior Minis- but even these are often poorly imple- somewhere already there in the [Serbi- Florian Qehaja, only on war crimes cases, but also on “Citizens in Kosovo and Serbia can- “Reconciliation should happen, but prosecutors in January 2016 and ob- she had planned to provide IVF ser- manslaughter and attempted man- try did not respond to requests for in- mented, according to in-depth reports an] ministry,” explained a high-ranking the ordinary ones, but they keep refus- not feel safe, and organised crime is it would be difficult to make justice Kosovo Centre for tained by BIRN. vices in a new clinic but did not get the slaughter. formation. by BIRN Kosovo [here: http://prishti- EU official involved in this process. ing. flourishing,” he warned. happen without communication,” he Despite being wanted by Kosovo business off the ground. She rejected Predrag Vukosavljevic, also known Kosovo Police added that Serbia had nainsight.com/house-cards-kosovo- The same EU official, who spoke on Security Studies “They have asked for information Additional reporting by Paulina added. Police, Zeqiri escaped to Serbia, from her landlord’s version of events. as Predrag Vulicevic, was sought in never requested an extradition from serbias-shaky-dialogue. condition of anonymity, said that over- think-tank about our citizens for war crime cases Nushi, Visar Prebreza and Nikola Lazic. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Makeover Planned for Downtown Belgrade Arts Festival Aims to Belgrade City Manager Goran Vesic has announced that Republic Square and Karadjordjeva Street are soon to get a brand-new look. Reconnect Kosovo and Serbia The 15-million-euro projects are supposed to kick off in the upcom- The annual Miredita, between Serbia and its former prov- ing months, after Belgrade authori- ince, which declared independence ties choose the contractors. After in brief Belgrade Dobar Dan! Festival in 2008 – a move Belgrade has vowed the reconstruction work, Republic never to recognise. Square will get new green areas, presents Kosovo new benches and more effective Apart from presenting contempo- public lighting, which will also be Albanian films, rary Kosovo art and culture, “the aim used for events. On Karadjordjeva of the festival is to initiate changes Street, Vesic said that part of the exhibitions and and create a tradition of cooperation railway tracks that run there will plays in the Serbian through meetings between the Serbian be removed and the area will and Kosovar social and cultural com- get a promenade with children capital in a bid to munities,” the organisers said in a state- playgrounds as well as a two-way ment. bicycle lane. rebuild relations They believe the festival can contrib- The festival, which started in 2014, aims to present Photo: Courtesy of Miredita, Dobar Dan Festival/ YIHR Innovation Week between the two ute to creating a permanent normalisa- contemporary Kosovo Arts and culture to the Serbian Brings New Ideas tion in relations between Belgrade and audience. peoples. Pristina. The symbol of and inspiration for in protest against the Yugoslav authori- From May 28 to June 1, Belgrade Miredita, Dobar Dan! opens with Miredita, Dobar Dan! is Bekim Fehmiu ties’ anti-Albanian actions. will host the Week of Innovations, Blert Zeqiri’s film ‘Martesa’ (The Mar- (1936-2010), a Kosovo Albanian and Fehmiu is also known for his memoirs which aims to connect representa- Ivana NIKOLIC riage), which won two awards at the Yugoslav actor who achieved interna- ‘Blistavo i Strasno’ (‘Shiny and Fright- tives of industry, the scientific Tallin Black Nights film festival in Es- tional renown. ful’), in which he explores the relations research community and students. “That will be the chance for he four-day festival, whose name tonia last November. Visitors will also The organisers describe him as “a between Serbia and Kosovo, among students, people in industry and means Good Day in Serbian and have a chance to see Eliza Hoxha’s exhi- symbol of the joint past, together with other things. He committed suicide in science and all the others dealing TAlbanian, will present the Koso- bition of photography and installations, all of its challenges, achievements and his apartment in Belgrade in 2010. with innovations to talk about vo Albanian cultural scene to Belgrade ‘Between Dream and Reality’, a play misunderstandings”. things that belong both to the audiences from May 30 to June 2. about how memories are processed, Fehmiu, who was born in Sarajevo Entrance to all of the events is free future and present moment,” said At the festival, which has been run- ‘CopeCope’ (‘Bits and Pieces’), as well as and educated in Belgrade, shot films of charge. For more information and a Nenad Popovic, Serbia's Minister ning since 2014, there will also be dis- a debate entitled ‘Kosovo and Serbia: all over the former Yugoslavia, as well more detailed programme, see www. of Innovation and Technological cussions about the future of relations What are we to each other?’ as in Italy and the US. He retired in 1987 mireditadobardan.com. Development. The Week of Innova- tions was launched on May 10 with Goran Ferenc from Belgrade’s School of Electrical Engineering playing on a laser harp which he built himself. The event will also be Family Fun at held in two other cities, Novi Sad in the north and Nis in the south. Herceg Novi Comes to Free Kalemegdan Belgrade Festival Days of Herceg Novi, an event promoting the Montenegrin One Belgrade Night Market at Kalenic market (pictured) in Vracar, attracted estimated 30,000 people. Photo: Courtesy of Gradske Pijace costal town, will take place in the capital on May 19 and 20. Belgrade Manifest offers a range of The programme starts at noon on entertaining activities and events for “Our team travelled around and saw will last for two days, on May 25 and Saturday with the Belgrade and how much fun people are having at the 26, at the site of Belgrade’s first market- Herceg Novi tourism authorities families, while showcasing Serbia’s wine San Miguel Market in Madrid and then, place, Studentski park and will start at signing a cooperation agreement, Night followed by a parade of Herceg and beer producers and displaying what the of course, at La Boqueria in Barcelona,” noon. Novi majorettes on Knez Mihailova she says about the initial idea. Besides offering an unusual night Street. On the same day at 7pm, a country’s regions have to offer to tourists. To ensure that products at the Night out for Belgraders, Night Markets allow band called Castel Nuova will play Markets Lure Market represented the best that Bel- small local producers to connect with famous songs from the Montene- Ivana NIKOLIC grade has to offer, top merchants, sell- People of a larger audience more intimately than grin town in Belgrade’s Skadarlija cultural, historical and gastronomical ing fruits, vegetables, diary and meat, though social media. quarter. eogradski Manifest (Belgrade offerings. Representatives from Monte- Youngsters were picked from all over the city after all ages are “We wanted to see how people who Manifest), which has been run- negro, Slovenia and Republika Srpska the Gradske Pijace team visited their are not our friends react to our prod- 200 Couples to Marry in Mass Wedding Bning in the capital since 2015, will also introduce highlight what they farms to ensure that their wares were ucts and gather feedback to improve,” promises fun for the whole family at can offer to tourists. produced locally and were of high qual- coming – explains Natasa Djurkovic, from ele- If you have never attended a Belgrade’s Kalemegdan Park from May Kids can also enjoy the three-day Back to Fading ity. ment_handmade, who recently started collective wedding (a kolektivno 25 to May 27. Children’s Zone, as well as getting to Other merchants, selling anything youngsters, manufacturing soaps with a group of vencanje in Serbian) go to the Completely free of charge, the festi- learn more about child safety in traf- from rose liqueur to glass-frames made friends. Belgrade City Assembly on Sunday, val offers concerts, educational work- fic and the importance of recycling for of used skateboards, were invited, to mothers with Nevena Todorovic, from Zebrew May 20. More than 200 couples ‘Pijacas’ shops, film screenings and dance per- environmental protection through an The free festival at Kalmegdan will offer fun for the Photo: Courtesy of Beogradski Manifest ensure that all browsers could find craft brewery, is equally enthusiastic. from all over Serbia, but also from formances as well as stands promoting event called ‘Manifest Yourself – Every whole family across ten different zones and stages. something they really like. Beside the “We started exhibiting at the third Bel- Austria, Macedonia and Libya, will children and say ‘yes’ at the same time. The tourism and healthy living, with ten dif- Can Matters’ (‘Manifestuj se - Svaka li- will offer a chance to get to know some on the spot, as well as the colourful Regular nocturnal markets featuring merchants, the Night Markets also fea- grade Night Market and have stayed event starts at 9am, and is free ferent festival zones and five stages. menka se racuna’). of the most prominent craft breweries hot-air balloons – a symbol of Belgrade ture DJs and live music, making the ever since,” she said. of charge - as are the wedding As the festival also promotes tourist For the first time this year, there will and wineries in Serbia, with food and Manifest. music and dancing as well as top visit a pleasant after-work alternative to the usual “As the event and the organisation dresses, although the brides are destinations, there will be representa- be two associated mini-festivals at Bel- live music adding to the atmosphere. cafés and traditional kafanas. are great, we always try to be there. It only allowed to keep them for two tives from more than 60 municipali- grade Manifest – a festival of domestic Make sure not to miss the exhibition For more information, see produce are luring a trendier crowd Initially, merchants expressed some elderly crowd is rare for us to be able to get to know days. ties in Serbia who will showcase their craft beers and a wine festival. They of straw sculptures, which will be made www.beogradskimanifest.rs. back to the city’s increasingly neglected reservations, worried that the new con- our customers, but also to reach new cept would ruin the original concep- … It’s great to people beyond our normal consumer green markets. tion of the “pijac”, which traditionally base.” opens early in the morning and closes see teenagers Bosnjakovic maintains that Night Find your copy of ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR in the early afternoon. But after a few Markets are just part of wider efforts to Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight +381 11 4030 303, [email protected] Srdjan GARCEVIC Bars, which focus on Serbia’s tradition- events were held, Belgraders seem to revive the city’s green markets. Other al tipple, teamed up two years ago to have embraced the concept. Bosnjako- shopping at events also take place, such as “Chil- oing to “pijac”, as the lo- launch Beogradski Nocni Market – the vic estimates that up to 300,000 peo- dren’s market”, where school pupils cals call Belgrade’s 32 Belgrade Night Market. ple have attended the 13 Night Markets the market, sell their own handicrafts, and “Wine MONUMENT HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL COURTYARD BY TOURIST ORGANISATION OF THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL open-air green markets, A series of events, it aims to lure visi- held so far across the city. markets”, dedicated to wine produc- Address: Cika Ljubina 9 Address: Kneza Milosa 5 MARRIOTT SERBIA SCHOOL OF BELGRADE is an established tradition tors back to markets by opening them “People of all ages are coming – and the more ers. Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 Address: Trg Republike 5 Address: Smetanina 12 in the city. up at night and complementing tradi- youngsters, mothers with children and Beogradske pijace is also investing HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL HYATT GHowever, it is under threat from ever- tional fresh produce with music and the usual elderly crowd … It’s great to in upgrades to the markets – from buy- mature visitors Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION RADISSON BLU expanding supermarket chains and products made by small local manu- see teenagers shopping at the market, ing new stalls to rebuilding the Palilula Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE OLD MILL HOTEL other food delivery options. facturers, designers, craft brewers and and the more mature visitors dancing,” market along the lines of Spain’s San HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL CROWNE PLAZA Address: Kolarceva 3 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 Their inconvenient working hours restaurateurs. Bosnjakovic noted. dancing Miguel. They have already received an Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 SKVER 44 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade and locations are also prompting Marija Bosnjakovic, who heads Grad- The first event was held at the central award for their efforts from the World Address: Pozeska 44a RESTAURANT BIZU younger Belgraders to turn their backs ske Pijace’s PR and marketing team, ex- Bajloni market. It then travelled to oth- Union of Wholesale Markets, an organi- CAFE SNEZANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 RESTAURANT DVA JELENA on the fresh produce and camaraderie plains that the idea is to attract the kind er markets around town: Zeleni Venac, sation that works to preserve markets INTERGALACTIC DINER Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac Address: Skadarska 32 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 of the traditional markets and opt for of people that often skip green markets Kalenic, Zemun and New Belgrade’s around the world. Address: Skadarska 34 INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar speedier choices. – mostly young Belgraders and tourists Blok 44 covered market. KOLARAC Mihajla Pupina 85A BELGRADE But help is in sight. To re-invent and – by taking a cue from successful mar- This year, seven more night markets The next Belgrade Night Market will Address: Studentski trg 5 Address: Temisvarska 19 save the “pijac” in the 21st Century, Grad- kets around the world, which carefully are planned, roughly one a month un- be held on Studentski Trg on 25 and 26 ske Pijace [City Markets], the municipal curate their offering and liven it up to til late autumn, except in August. They May from noon to midnight. For future Address: Kolarceva 7 company that runs the markets, and provide a more social, and fun, experi- normally take place on Fridays, from Marija Bosnjakovic, events follow their Facebook page (www. Redesign, the firm that pioneered Rakia ence. 6pm to midnight, however the next one PR Gradske Pijace facebook.com/beogradskinocnimarket). 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 7 SERBIA BUSINESS COMMENT Serbia’s Economic 'Recovery' Leaves Experts Unconvinced

Brnabic also noted that industries Officials are that had declined in early 2017, such as the construction and energy sectors, crowing about had started to recover and recorded significant growth in the first quarter of the latest GDP 2018. Average GDP growth in the 28 EU figures – but member states in the first quarter of 2018 was a meagre 0.4 per cent. experts say more However, Serbian experts say that the country needs not one but many investment and years of higher-than-average growth to catch up with the region and the EU. exports and a Madzar says the most important in- gredient for economic growth is a sta- better business ble legal framework and laws that are enforced impartially, including more environment efficient enforcement of contracts and greater financial discipline. are needed, if He also added it is important to make “truce” between the state and business- recovery is to be men, some of whom were exposed to maintained. harassment and even arrest in the past. SUSTAINABLE GROWTH OR TEMPORARY SUCCESS Stevan VELJOVIC The Event Meant to Make Official optimism this year comes fter Serbia’s poor eco- after a disappointing economic perfor- nomic performance mance in 2017, when GDP grew by 1.9 Yugoslavia Work Out worried local officials per cent. and experts in 2017, lat- The slow growth was blamed on tem- est statistics show Ser- porary factors – a drought that hit agri- The Youth Day baton relay symbolically passed through all Yugoslav republics as a show of unity. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/Sporti bia’sA Gross Domestic Product picking culture and lowered output in the en- up in the first quarter of 2018. ergy sector – as well as chronic factors, of the presidents of the federal presi- and strong nation. He created a sports cupation and the annexation of Bosnia Sokol were, at best, limited. Despite this, But while Serbian officials boast such as lower levels of investment and Thirty years dency after Tito's death in 1980). society in 1862, and named it after the and Herzegovina grew, Sokol societies the Communist approach to rebuilding about the latest figures, local experts inadequate exports, which were both Lasting about an hour, the ceremony Czech word for falcon - Sokol, which across the former Yugoslavia were Yugoslav identity and ensuring that all warn that celebrations are premature, below the regional average. passed since consisted of thousands of participants is similar across the Slavic languages. cooperating to the point of wanting to of its citizens got along after suffering and stress the need for political stabil- Experts say 4.5 per cent growth in from all over the country dancing in His goal was to strengthen Czech and unite into a single Sokol society in 1914, great violence at each other's hands ity and further reforms if the economic the first quarter of 2018 does not nec- Yugoslavia’s unison in colourful garb to the songs Slavic cultures, as he considered them something that was thwarted by the took a lot of inspiration from the Sokols. recovery is to be sustained. essarily mean that Serbia will reach its of the most popular musicians in Yu- endangered by Germanic imperial rule Austro-Hungarian authorities. Hej Sloveni, the beloved anthem “Nothing paralyses businesses more predicted growth rate by the end of the last Youth Day goslavia or chanting hymns dedicated and influence. After World War I, the Sokol move- of socialist Yugoslavia, was originally than insecurity about the measures year. to Tito and Yugoslavia with titles along Thus Sokol society embraced ro- ment was embraced and supported by written by Samo Tomasik, a Slovak Lu- that the state may introduce,” Ljubomir “Growth in the first quarter is a result 'slet’, an annual the lines of Tito is our Sun and Comrade mantic nationalist ideas of the era, best the newly-minted Kingdom of Serbs, theran pastor, and had been sung by Madzar, a former Economics professor of a change that started from an un- Tito We Swear to You. illustrated by their peculiar uniform Croats and Slovenes, which later formed Sokols across Europe since the late 19th at Belgrade University, warned. favourable initial basis,” Madzar told event which Watching old recordings of these which combined a red Garibaldi shirt a united Sokol Movement in 1919. Century. When representatives of anti- His talk with BIRN came after the BIRN. slets on YouTube today, the event (popularised during the Italian Unifica- The ideology of the Sokols was used fascist movements from all over Yugo- government, on April 28, announced He explained his caution by recalling was designed seems strange, probably even to the tion movement), brown Russian trou- as a way of forging a common identity slavia met in the Bosnian town of Jajce that Serbia’s GDP growth rate in the that Serbia’s growth in the first quarter most devout of Yugo-nostalgics. The sers, and a Polish revolutionary jacket among its diverse population, which on November 29, 1943 to create what first quarter of this year reached 4.5 per of 2018 was not based on structural to make nations parallels with the physically more im- topped with a Montenegrin cap. grew up in different states and with dif- would become the Socialist Federal Re- cent, exceeding the earlier forecast. changes in the economy, which re- pressive Arirang mass games in North ferent religions. This intention was best public of Yugoslavia and select its lead- Late last year, the government pre- mains constrained by low levels of in- work out their Korea are inescapable, especially due FORGING THE captured by their most famous motto: er, Tito, they met in a former Sokol Hall. dicted a real GDP growth rate for 2018 vestment and even lower levels of do- Brnabic also noted that industries that had declined in early 2017, such as the construction and Photo: Beoinfo energy sectors, had started to recover and recorded significant growth in the first quarter of 2018. to the cringe-worthy, almost religious, YUGOSLAV IDENTITY "Brat je mio ma koje vere bio" (A brother Most importantly, Communists con- of 3.5 per cent, as did the Ministry of Fi- mestic savings. differences. praise to the 'dear leader'. is dear, no matter what his faith is). This tinued the push to create a unified nance, when putting together the 2018 “Our rate of investment is among the tional currency, the dinar, to the euro. economies is only half the average in In Serbia, however, the survey Even in the 1980s their authoritar- Tyrs' idea spread like wildfire among ecumenical attitude, however, was op- Yugoslav identity, this time under the budget. lowest in the region, and when invest- “A strong dinar is good for citizens the 11 EU member states of Eastern Eu- named political instability as the big- ian aesthetic did not escape a group Slavic nations who lived under the posed by the Croatian Catholic Church, banner of 'Bratstvo Jedinstvo' (Brother- The IMF predicted the same growth ment is low, there is no room for high and for companies with loans in euros, rope and just a quarter of the GDP in gest obstacle, followed by tax rates and Srdjan GARCEVIC of Slovenian avant-garde artists who Austro-Hungarian Empire and craved which not only forced the Croatian hood and Unity) which the slets and ba- rate, as did the European Commission; economic growth,” he said. but doesn’t create a good environment most Western European countries. corruption. are popularly blamed for the death greater political and cultural autonomy. Sokols to leave the common organisa- ton relay on May 25 garishly celebrated. the European Bank for Reconstruction “Without significant, deep changes for exports,” he noted. The last few years are already lost for Savic said that most of these men- t has been 30 years since the last of slets. In 1987, the group called Novi It also benefited from the late 19th Cen- tion, but also formed its own compet- In this officially endorsed culture there and Development, EBRD, made a lower in the economy, any eventual growth “In the long term, stimulating exports Serbia in terms of convergence, mean- tioned obstacles do not equally affect 'slet' – a spectacular annual event Kolektivizam (New Collectivism), tury Pan-Slavic ideology that originat- ing society Orlovi [Eagles], fearing that was a strong focus on proportionality forecast of 2.9 per cent. hike will be only temporary and won’t is more important, because that is the while, when Serbia failed to reach even domestic companies and foreign inves- much like the opening ceremony which was linked to the (in)famous ed in Russia, which called for greater Sokolism would lead the people away and shared goals, most obviously in the The World Bank forecasted 3 per be sustainable,” he added. only healthy way to increase GDP and the average growth rate in Central and tors, which usually pass through the of the Olympic Games that in- Slovenian band Laibach, submitted cooperation between Slavic nations. from the church. organisation of relays. The relay route cent, slightly below the regional aver- This view appears corroborated in employment, as well as reliably service Eastern Europe, which was 4.5 per cent “labyrinth of regulations” more easily cluded the presentation of a re- an altered Nazi propaganda poster de- In the Slavic areas of the Balkans, this The Sokol movement in Yugosla- had to snake through all of Yugoslavia's age of 3.2 per cent, but higher than the the October-December 2017 issue of the public debt,” he told BIRN. in 2017. thanks to subsidies and other forms of Ilay baton that had been carried across sign to a Youth Day poster competition idea was also combined with nascent via came to the fore again when the republics and regions, and the people rate for Macedonia and Montenegro. Quarterly Monitor of Economic Trends Savic said growth of 3.5 to 4 per cent government assistance. each Yugoslav state followed by mass and won, causing a major upset in an proto-Yugoslav ideologies, which be- country was destabilised after Stjepan carrying were chosen to reflect the eth- President Aleksandar Vucic wel- and Policies in Serbia, the economic in 2018 can be achieved with a good SUBSIDIES ARE NOT He added that Serbia today attracts games featuring coordinated gymnas- already fraught Yugoslavia. That year sides calling for autonomy also foresaw Radic, a prominent separatist Croatian nic composition of all areas it passed. comed the latest statistics as the “most journal published by the Foundation yield in agriculture, having in mind its THE WAY TO SECURE mostly investors that employ unquali- tic routines and dances. the last baton relay handover was held, a future union of South Slavic nations, politician, was shot dead by a Montene- Although the Sokol idea of uniting na- beautiful news, because it means a sur- for the Advancement of Economics, high share in Serbia’s GDP, but stressed INVESTMENT fied labour with little added value in The event was part of the former while the slets were discontinued alto- which were, then, culturally and demo- grin MP in 1928. The following year, to tions through shared exercise seems plus in the budget and significant rise in FREN, of Belgrade University’s Econom- that this rate cannot be predicted for their products, such as automobile Yugoslavia's Youth Day celebrations, gether a year later in 1988. graphically intermingled. gain control of the situation, King Alek- quaint now, there is increasing scientific wages and pensions. ics Faculty. certain. The same EBRD report ranks Serbia component and textile manufacturers. one of the largest events of the year, Ironically, almost exactly a century After the founding of Ljubljana's first sandar I suspended the constitution evidence that Tyrs was right to an extent. “I hope we will keep the growth rate Its analysis confirms that, between Madzar went further and warned above the regional average in terms of Madzar also calls subsidies an “inad- and was held every May 25 to celebrate before in 1888, it was another group of Sokol society in 1863, societies explic- and introduced a dictatorship. More and more studies suggest that chant- above 4 per cent by year-end, which 2013 and 2017, investment in Serbia that growth rates of 3.5 to 4 per cent, country’s ability to assume the obliga- equate replacement” for better regula- Tito's official birthday. It was held at the Slovenes who introduced the whole itly embracing Sokol ideology were Orlovi were banned and the Yu- ing and rhythmically moving in unison do would significantly exceed the expec- comprised only some 17 per cent of its even if they are achieved, are not tions of EU membership, however. tion of the business environment by Yugoslav National Army stadium that practice of slets to what was to become set up in Zagreb (1874), Novi Sad (1874), goslav Sokol was relied on to forge create a sense of community and increase tations of the World Bank and the IMF,” overall GDP – well behind the region, enough if Serbia wants to catch up with Along with Montenegro, it received introducing clear, impartial rules. is now home to Partizan football club. Yugoslavia. Their embrace of coordi- Belgrade (1891) and later in Bosnia and stronger links between the youth of Yu- cooperation among strangers. he said in Skopje, Macedonia, on April where the average share of investment the rest of the region. the highest score in the Western Bal- “Serbia should try to attract foreign It was one of the largest events in the nated movement was fuelled by a no- other parts of the former Yugoslavia. goslavia's diverse ethnic groups. To that Who knows, maybe Yugoslavia 27. in GDP was 22 per cent. “Comparable economies in the re- kans for six qualities of a sustainable investors who do not come for subsidies former Yugoslavia and became one of bler, if strange, logic fully in line with the These societies expanded throughout end, Belgrade in 1930 hosted a massive, might have eventually worked out if The next day, on April 28, Prime The share of exports in Serbia’s GDP gion are growing at higher rates than market economy [competitive, well- but because they see it as an attractive the defining expressions of the Yugo- prevailing romantic ethos of the time. the late 19th and early 20th Century and 20,000 person slet, which was held at only more Yugoslavs had worked out Minister Ana Brnabic was quoted on is also lower compared to the region, Serbia, which risks staying at the bot- governed, green, inclusive, resilient market to do business in,” said Savic. slav identity. This first slet in Ljubljana was organ- attracted prominent young writers, a huge purpose-built wooden stadium. together? the government website as saying that with around 48 per cent in Serbia, com- tom of the development scale in Eu- and integrated], though it still ranked “The best way to raise GDP, not just in Beside the chock-full stadium and ised by the Slovene Sokols, who followed poets and politicians from all Slavic Sumptuous Sokol halls (Sokolane) con- Serbia’s growth rate in the first three pared to a regional average of 56 per rope,” Madzar added. well behind the 11 EU member states of statistical terms, but also in terms of devel- large crowds glued to their TVs, partici- the ideas of Miroslav Tyrs, a Czech art nations. They used exercising together taining gyms and auditoriums were Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a months was well above the average cent. This concern was corroborated by Eastern Europe. opment, is to attract investors who see Ser- pation in the ceremony offered life-long historian and amateur gymnast. at international slets that were held built across the country to symbolise founder of The Nutshell Times blog. growth rate in the region and the EU, Moreover, 2017 was marked by an- an EBRD report, The Western Balkans The report stated that the biggest ob- bia as an attractive market to make a profit, distinction to those who participated, Tyrs was inspired by his studies of across Europe to share their ideas and the importance of the movement and and highest quarterly growth in the last other unfavourable trend – a rise in im- in transition: diagnosing the constraints stacle for the private sector across the which would improve the economy by em- especially to the Yugoslav youth - cho- ancient Greece to believe that practic- unite against what they saw as negative spread its message. The opinions expressed in the Com- ten years. ports that exceeded the rise of exports. on the path to a sustainable market region was competition between the ploying a more educated and more skilled sen from a different republic and eth- ing sports such as weightlifting, march- foreign influence. Unfortunately, the inter-ethnic ment section are those of the authors She attributed the apparent break- Ljubodrag Savic, Economics profes- economy, published in February 2018. formal and informal sector, followed labour force, and create products with nicity each year - who had the honour ing and fencing, individually and in In the first decade of the 20th Century, slaughter during World War II showed only and do not necessarily re ect the through to reforms started by previous sor at Belgrade University, blames that This noted that the current aver- by political instability and access to fi- higher added value and with greater use of presenting the baton to Tito (or one groups, was key to ensuring a healthy as tensions over Austro-Hungarian oc- that the achievements of the Yugoslav views of BIRN. and present government. trend on the strengthening of the na- age GDP per capita for Western Balkan nance. of domestic raw materials,” he concluded. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 9 REGION FACES Middle About town with… Serbian East Policy Designer Wins Prizes MARKO RADOJKOVIC Battles Add Marko is one of the VJs on Tight Budgets behind the popular collective Kisobran, who regularly organ- Award-winning to Romania’s ise eponymous par- ties in Belgrade and costume designer across the region. He is also one of the Ivana Vasic Turmoil founders of Zaokret and Sprat bars (both says willpower in Cetinjska 15), and is the man behind Benjd - his and personal The government’s A sudden decision to move the em- indie, ukulele-infused singer- bassy to Jerusalem risks creating ten- songwriter project. engagement abrupt moves to sions with some Arab states as well as Iran, experts warn. are needed change Romania’s Besides taking into account the po- Morning litical situation in Israel, Romania must most when foreign policy in also bear in mind that any change in A perfect day usually starts early. I use the ear- foreign policy requires the consent of ly hours to catch up on episodes of whichever overcoming the the Middle East all the foreign policy makers. TV series I am watching at the moment, take This means the President, the foreign biggest challenge are causing chaos a quick shower and then head somewhere for ministry, parliamentary commissions breakfast. Usually it is a spinach, prosciutto of her job – lack of at home – and and the government, Liliana Popescu, and goat cheese croissant at Fini (Svetozara International Relations Professor at the Miletića 7), burek at Ljupce (Dalmatinska 33) cash. risk damaging National School of Political and Admin- or anything in Red Bread (Dositejeva 22). istrative Studies in Bucharest, said. the country’s vital "What we've been seeing is how a for- If there is time, a bike-ride around town is al- eign policy issue has been transformed ways a good idea, especially in the mornings! Ivana NIKOLIC interests abroad, into a personal political issue by [ruling party leader Liviu] Dragnea," she told On the bike trail, the perfect place for a quick 've been thinking a lot late- Romanian representatives attened the opening of the US Embassy in Jerusalem. Photo: BETA/AP experts say. BIRN. chill is Brodic na Savi (Sajamski kej bb) – sip- ly about how it's not about told the media about Dragnea on April elled often to Romania to train and ac- long explanation published in Roma- ping rose spritz, local craft beer, or just regular having a talent to design FOREIGN AFFAIRS VS 26, drawing condemnation in Israel's quire weapons. nia on April 21. soda water helps me get through the day. a character anymore but DOMESTIC POLITICS media for anti-Semitic language, for It was no surprise in 1974 when Ro- "It's not difficult to anticipate how this rather about having a tal- Ana Maria LUCA which the President later apologised. mania officially recognised the PLO, type of action would be received at the On slow days, I try crossing to Novi Beograd in "Ient to deal with difficulties," freelance Ivana Vasic is launcing a new line of suits for women. Photo: Courtesy of Ivana Vasic With President Klaus Iohannis and However, the next day he called on which in turn established its office EU level, from a state that is next year a small boat from Ada Ciganlija, and head to costume designer Ivana Vasic from Bel- lans by Romania's ruling Dragnea at loggerheads over the loca- Dacila to quit her post, saying that her in Bucharest. In 1988, Romania was expected to take over the presidency pizzeria Di Napoli (Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 12E), grade told BIRN. when designing actors' outfits, whether "Sunset from a Rooftop," was awarded Social Democrat Party to tion of the embassy in Israel, Prime actions, including the visit to Israel among the first countries to recognise of the European Council, a position that who always manage to put a smile on my face She has just recently been awarded for the theatre or TV. the Golden Calf for the best short film follow the US President Minister Viorica Dancila has been with Dragnea and the "secret memo- the Palestinian Authority. by definition requires responsibility with the perfect pizza they make. for her "talent to deal with difficulties", "When a play or a film premieres, at the Utrecht Film Festival in the Neth- Donald Trump's lead on caught in the middle. randum", had damaged Romania's na- After the fall of the Ceausescu re- and objectivity," Aurescu wrote on Hot- at the traditional "Comedy Days" ["Dani there is no ticker saying: 'They had the erlands. That film was also the Dutch Israel and move Romania's On April 19, the Social Democrat-led tional interest. gime, Romania kept its good relations news news website. komedije"] theatre festival in the central best intentions, but the budget was not candidate for a Short Film Academy Pembassy from Tel Aviv to Jerusalem cabinet adopted what was supposed The President's call for her to go was with both Israel and the Palestinian He added that such a decision could Serbian town of Jagodina. big enough,'" she laughs. Award. Afternoon have sparked turmoil in Romania – and to be a secret memorandum drafted by largely symbolic, as he does not have Authority, and offered several times to affect several important foreign policy Vasic won the best costume design Her work as a theatre costume de- The successful costume designer concern in the Middle East. the Foreign Ministry, proposing a start the power to fire the Prime Minister. serve as a mediator in their talks. objectives, such as Romania's efforts to Since my job has no exact working hours, on prize created for the play "Florentine signer goes well beyond pure costume now argues the time has come for With Paraguay announcing that it to procedures for the relocation of the Romania has also maintained prag- obtain a non-permanent seat in the UN busy days it is like a never ending 24/7 shift Straw Hat" ["Florentinski Sesir"], per- designing: she has to be present at the something brand new in her life and ca- was also ready to move its embassy embassy. ROMANIA SWERVES matic relations with other capitals in- Security Council, as well as the safety of - but cool. I try to schedule meetings in the formed by Belgrade's Bosko Buha The- first, so-called, reading rehearsal as well reer. Her Proletarian Princess art studio to Jerusalem on May 9, and the Czech The memorandum was not included FROM ITS OLD MIDDLE EAST volved in the Arab-Israeli conflict, such Romanian citizens and diplomatic mis- early afternoon in my office / bar – Zaokret. atre. as at other rehearsals, to get a sense of is now about to launch a female suits Republic announcing on April 26 that it on the official, public list of documents APPROACH as Syria and Iran, and kept open chan- sions in the Middle East. Alternatively I am at Ljutic (Stevana Sremca Vasic's costume design award was all the characters involved. brand under the name "Proletarian". was set to reopen its consulate in Jeru- discussed in the cabinet meeting, how- nels with all sides, following Ceauses- Iulian Fota, a former presidential se- 5), Meduza (Jevremova 6) or KC Grad (Brace just one of seven awards that "Floren- "It happened sometimes that, af- "I always wanted to design clothes," salem, Romanian politicians have de- ever, while government spokesman While Israel, and most of the media, cu's policy of engaging both with Iran's curity adviser, says Romania needs an Krsmanovic 4), whose gardens are perfect for tine Straw Hat" got at the festival held in ter watching the rehearsals, I had to Vasic explains. bated whether Bucharest should also Nelu Barbu later denied he had seen it. have praised Dragnea and Dancila for theocracy and with Syrian leader Hafez open and comprehensive debate on its a quiet drink and chat during the day. late March. change my designs completely, as the When she was starting her profes- turn its back on the European Union's The document would have re- their initiative, it has worried Palestin- al-Assad's secular Socialist regime. Middle East policy in order to maintain It was named the best and funniest acting went into a whole other direc- sional career, Yugoslavia was in the support for a two-state solution to the mained classified had Dragnea not ians and caused concern in other Mid- However, relations with Iran, the its balance. As lunch at home is often impossible, I tend play at the 47th annual manifestation tion, and it wouldn't be intelligent of me final stages of dissolution, with almost Israel-Palestine conflict. mentioned it that same day in a televi- dle Eastern countries. main sponsor of Lebanese Shiite Hez- "We need to clear up not only our re- to grab a bite at Hanan (Svetogorska 2), Trag in Jagodina, while two of its actors re- to insist on my idea and not follow the no surviving industry and market, so Romania's Foreign Minister, Teodor sion interview, when he said Romania The embassy issue is highly sensitive bollah, cooled after 1989, as Romania lations with Israel," he said. "We have to (Djordja Jovanovića 2), JaM (Knez Miletina 25) ceived the "best acting performances" play flow," Vasic explains. she didn't dare try to fulfil that dream Melescanu, was summoned by parlia- would follow the US lead and move its in the region, as Palestinians also claim sought to join the EU and NATO, and clear up our relations with other coun- or Marukoshi (Kapetan Misina 37). If I have a awards, among other prizes. back then. ment Foreign Policy Committee on embassy. Jerusalem as their capital. started focusing on a strategic partner- tries in the region. We might reach a sit- lot of work to do, then I enjoy ordering "rostilj" "That was just one in a series of thea- GOING PROLETARIAN However, things have now changed May 9, where he admitted that such a "Our gesture has a huge symbolic Such unilateral moves are seen as a ship with the US, which had imposed uation when we have to make a choice, (Serbian barbecue) from a local butcher - tre performances with small budgets for the better, she says. foreign policy shift could have conse- value ... for Israel, a state with an unbe- violation of the old consensus that this an embargo on Iran due to its unde- and we might be put in a zero-sum Skocic (Dzordza Vasingtona 55). and big aspirations," Vasic said, adding Throughout her career, Vasic has "Since I design staff uniforms and quences for the country's international lievably large influence in the world issue should be resolved through nego- clared nuclear program. game situation," he told RFI on April 25. she feels honoured and happy to have been involved in various projects in- like uniforms in general, I had a chance relations. and with which we have had a special tiations. In May 2018, as the US Trump ad- Liliana Popescu also said that any been part of the success story. cluding, not only, costume design but to explore the current offer of Serbia's "We have mutual agreements with relationship for many years," Dragnea The Palestinian embassy in Bucha- ministration readied to withdraw from changes to Middle Eastern policy need Evening For Vasic, who graduated from Bel- scenography and graphic design as well. textile industry, which is now finally in- 43 Arab and Muslim states to support told the Antena3 TV talk show. rest urged Romania to reconsider, say- the 2015 nuclear deal and impose new to include an assessment also of the do- grade's Faculty of Applied Arts and She has worked with theatres such teresting and picturesque," Vasic notes. each other at the UN, including in terms "Moving the embassy to Jerusalem ing the move would violate interna- sanctions on Iran, Romania, together mestic political situation in Israel, where My evenings are reserved for work, so you can Design in 2000, drawing and designing as the National Theatre, the Vuk Ste- Her "Proletarian" brand, aimed at 25- of Romania's candidacy for a non-per- can and I believe will bring short, me- tional law, the decisions of the Council with Djibouti, supported a move by elections are approaching in 2019. find me in Zaokret or Sprat. I'm a regular at costumes "is actually the easiest, nicest fanovic Karadzic Cultural Centre and plus working women, is almost ready: manent spot in the Security Council. dium and long-term benefits for Roma- of Europe and Romania's own long- Morocco to break ties with Iran over its Netanyahu has kept its supporter concerts in Elektropionir, and, if there is some and the smallest part" of the job. Bitef Teatar in Belgrade and the Serbian she expects to launch the first collec- We'll have to see the extent to which nia, and we must use this huge chance," standing position on the settlement of efforts to arm the Polisario Front, the base enthusiastic and looks more pop- free time, I like to hop over to Ljubimac or Lift, In order for things to turn out just as National Theatre in the northern city of tion in late May or early June. While she things will evolve," he told the hearing. he added. the Palestinian conflict. armed group resisting Morocco's pres- ular than ever, but he has been under as they are all at Cetinjska 15. I have to bar- she pictures them in her mind, a lot of Novi Sad, to name but a few. designed the clothes, a number of tex- He added that his ministry and Ro- Revelation of the cabinet's "secret" Traditionally, Romania has ab- ence in Western Sahara. corruption investigation for over a year. hop every day – it's not easy! personal engagement is essential, she Apart from theatre plays, Vasic has tile factories across the country sewed mania's national security institution memorandum angered President Io- stained on UN General Assembly deci- Romania also maintained pragmatic On March 2, Israeli police questioned argues. designed costumes for a number of TV them. had held consultations on assessing hannis, however, who said he had not sions on the Arab-Israeli conflict and relations with Syria after 1989 and kept Netanyahu and his wife as a part of a cor- On weekends, after I close the bars, I try to "A small amount of money [for cos- and film projects both in the country Her suits will be on sale at several the advantages and the disadvantages been consulted or even informed of has supported a two-state solution. its embassy open in Damascus even af- ruption investigation involving the coun- get home asap, but my will-power often fails tumes] automatically means paying and abroad, as well as uniforms for ho- concept stores in Belgrade, including of such a major foreign policy shift. a plan that contradicted Romania's Bucharest still has good relations ter March 2011, when the Syrian upris- try's largest telecom firm, the third graft me, so I grab a burger at Burger House (Nikole fewer people. So, if some additional tels and restaurants. FAB by Una at 50 Krunska street; online Nevertheless, on May 12, Romania's pledge to support the two-state solu- with Ramallah, especially in terms of ing against Bashar al-Assad began. scandal involving the Prime Minister. Spasica 3) or a slice of pizza at Kli Kli (Veni- details or handiwork are needed on a For her work, Vasic received a num- orders will be possible as well. But Vasic Foreign Ministry confirmed that Bu- tion. education; hundreds of Palestinian stu- The embassy in Damascus, repre- While polls show he is most likely zelosova 2). I might also and end up boogying costume, so that a character is better ber of awards both at home and inter- plans to focus most on clientele abroad, charest, together with Budapest and A week later, Dragnea skipped his dents graduate annually from Roma- senting most EU states, proved helpful to win next year's elections, nothing is at a random house party, drinking al-fresco at depicted, then the costume designer nationally. which has more purchasing power. Prague, had blocked a EU resolution corruption trial hearing to accompany nian universities. in evacuating EU citizens from the war- certain. "What if the centrist Yair Lapid Vojvoda Vuk park in front of Hotel Palace or needs to do it herself," Vasic explains. Some of them include a 2014 best Although costume designing is her pushed by France on condemning US Prime Minister Dancila on a visit to Is- Relations between Romania and the torn country. wins the elections at a certain moment, hitting Drugstore (Bulevar Despota Stefana "If the costume designer doesn't feel costume design award at the 21st Inter- first love, Vasic explains her new career move to inaugurate the embassy in Je- rael, drawing praise from Israeli Prime Palestinian Liberation Organisation, and Israel's policy towards the Palestin- 115) or 20/44 (Usce bb). I do all of this, of like doing that additional work, the cos- national Small Stage Festival in Rijeka, choice: "Designing costumes belongs to rusalem. Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, but an- PLO, were strong during the Commu- NO SUDDEN MOVES ian issue changes?" Popescu pointed course, when we don't organise Kisobran tumes will be simpler, poorer and less Croatia, for the play "The Cabinet Min- the service industry, and I don't want to Some experts say that before making gering Iohannis once more. nist era in Romania, although, unlike WITHOUT A PROPER DEBATE out. nights or Pikniks – weekend day-time picnic elaborated. It is up to us if we want to ster's Wife." do that forever. I would like to have my this move – even if it is seen as mostly The visit was kept secret until, at the the other Soviet satellites, Romania did "Dragnea … is turning Romania's for- parties… Life in Belgrade sucks big time, but I engage that much, or be like, 'what the In 2011 she received a Grand Prix at own product." symbolic – Romania should re-assess last moment, it was announced by the not break off relations with Israel. Romania's unilateral decision to eign policy into a matter of personal enjoy it as much as I can. circumstances are, thus the outcome,'" the Kotor Theatre Festival in Montene- its diplomatic position in the Middle Israeli ambassador to Romania, Tamar Romania's links with the PLO move its embassy to Jerusalem would politics, using his position as head of the costume designer adds. gro for "The Ulcinj Pirates." For more information on Ivana East, taking into account more than the Samash. strengthened during Nicolae Ceaus- meanwhile undermine EU unity over the Chamber of Deputies and head of Next Kisobran party, where Marko will be VJing While inspiration is always present, Another important recognition hap- Vasic's designs and upcoming fashion location of its embassy in Israel and its "Who knows what secret deals he's escu's regime, when Palestinian leader the issue, the President's foreign policy the ruling party to make a decision that will take place on May 25 at KC Grad, Brace money isn't. However, Vasic says she pened in 2010, when a film in which brand visit her website: http://missvas- candidacy for the UN Security Council. making with the Jews?" the President Yasser Arafat and his lieutenants trav- adviser, Bogdan Aurescu, wrote in a is not his to make," she concluded. Krsmanovica 4. always works her fingers to the bones Vasic took the role of the art director, sich.wixsite.com/proletarianprincess 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Watch Top Regional Theatre in Novi Sad Belgrade Sterijino Pozorje is Serbia’s Insight: [and formerly Yugoslavia’s] Vila Obrenovica: Sommelier’s most prestigious theatre festi- corner val, held annually since 1956 at Novi Sad’s Srpsko Narodno Pozoriste, or Serbian National Former Royal Home with POTPIS Corner Wine Theatre. This year, between May 24 and June 3, theatre A fine selection of aficionados will be able to enjoy nine plays included in the Serbian wines is main competition programme, Tumultuous Past on offer in this half- while three others from Croatia restaurant, half-kafana and Slovenia will be staged Else? Where in Cuburski park as part of Krugovi [Circles] programme. Highlights include From the summer Pavle GOLICIN “Carstvo Nebesko” [“Kingdom of Heaven”], directed by the palace of Serbia’s lose to the courtyard in Slovenian director Jernej Lor- Cuburski park, where enci, which reimagines Serbian vanished Obre- I scored my first three- epic poetry, “Jami Distrikt” Cpointer, playing basket [“Jami District”] a satirical novic dynasty to a in the hood, is a new establish- take on pseudo-histories about ment – a restaurant called Potpis, the origins of Balkan nations, German hospital or “Signature” in English. written by Minja Bogavac and and a post-World Somewhere between a restau- directed by one of the most rant and a kafana, it promotes itself as a place where you can prominent Serbian contempo- War II ‘forbidden eat traditional Serbian cuisine rary theatre directors, Kokan with a modern touch. Whatever Mladeniovic, as well as the zone,’ this beautiful that means, I was glad that I Croatian National Theatre’s could enjoy the fine weather, “Ljudi od voska” [“Men of mansion offers a overlooking the greenery of Wax”]. All plays will be surtitled the park, which certainly gives in English. Tickets, which cost glimpse into a court added value to the visit. 400 to 600 dinars [four to five The wine list in Potpis focuses euros] can be booked by call- life as it once was. almost exclusively on Serbian ing the festival office daily at: wines, with a few exceptions from the region and elsewhere, +381 (0)21 451-273 between Ivana NIKOLIC 9am and 3pm, or bought at such as the Mediterranean. In to- Zmaj Jovina 22/I, Novi Sad tal, some 70-ish wines are avail- from 10am to 5pm. n a hill near the city of able, including house wine. This Smederevo, filled with is always a nice touch for me. vineyards and red roses, About 15 wines are available Mellow jazz sounds by the glass, which along with overlooking the Danube return to Valjevo the labels available by bottles, and Mt Avala, lies the cover a wide range of grape vari- The Jazz Festival returns 19Oth-century summer residence of the eties and certainly give enough nd to Valjevo for the 32 time Obrenovic dynasty, which ruled Serbia space to find a good match for between May 24 and 26. This from 1815 to 1903, with a short break be- the food. Veal cooked in a traditional clay dish – sac – was nice but not memorable. Photo: Courtesy of Potpis year’s centrepiece is a concert Having in mind that there is tween 1842 and 1858. by Amira Medunjanin and a house wine in Potpis, and that Bojan Zulfikarpasic, who will The villa's official name is Vila I had not tried it before, I was in deliver a jazzy take on Bosnia’s Zlatni Breg [Golden Hill Villa], but it is no doubt. I ordered it to better traditional emotional folk widely known by the name of its first understand the eno-gastronomic songs, sevdalinkas, on May 25. royal owners, Vila Obrenovica, or, the philosophy behind Potpis’s Vila Obrenovica finally opened its doors to the public in 2014. Photo: Courtesy of Nenad Tepavcevic Potpis: Signature dishes Medunjanin, known as 'Bos- Obrenovic Villa. offering. nia’s Billie Holiday', received In this case, it is the winery From its construction till the present Milos was not the first one to plant vine- she commissioned the famous court until 1945, when it was nationalised and Rnjak, which is situated in praise for her 2005 solo album day, the modest mansion surrounded yards here: the Romans, Serbia's medie- architect, Jovan Ilkic, whose works in- became state property. 'Rosa', while Zulfikarpasic southern Banat, in a well-known fail to leave their mark received the European Jazz by 30 hectares of forests and parks has val ruler Despot Djuradj Brankovic and clude the National Assembly building, wine county around the village Prize in 2005 and holds the had a turbulent history. the Ottoman Turks all did likewise be- the Hotel Moscow as well as the build- LIFE AFTER THE of Gudurica. Knowing the terroir, Dating back to Serbia's liberation fore him. Legend has it that the Romans ing now housing the Student Cultural ROYALS DEPARTED I opted for their white and rosé. title of the Knight of the French The white was a typical Order of Arts and Letters. On from the Ottoman Empire and the crea- nicknamed this part of Smederevo Centre in Belgrade. Chardonnay, fruity with aromas The interior uses the decoration crunchy crust – a common thing that al menu, turned to be double-trouble. May 26, Valjevo Cultural Centre tion of the modern Serbian state, the Mons Aureus [Golden Hill] because of The modest building received vari- After World War II and nationalisa- of quince, pear and tropical fruit. Mala Fabrika scheme already tested at MFU. It is everyone knows and loves, but in real- It was ordered with the starters but got will host Croatian star musi- villa hosted members of the Obrenovic its fertility – hence its current name. ous additions: two lateral floor aisles, tion, the villa was used by the state: it These aromas are not “covered” bright and simple: white wooden chairs ity a rare treat. The case was precisely so “lost in translation”, and when it finally cian Zlatan Stipsic Gibboni and family over the summer months before In 1833, Milos finished building the liv- two angular towers, decorative ele- served as the Executive Council dur- by ageing in barrique, so the Ukusa’s younger contrast with dark wooden tables, with the breaded paprika with cheese – a came to our table by the end of our Matija Stipsic, a jazz veteran passing into the hands of one of their ing quarters as well as the wine cellars. ments above the balconies, cellar and ing the communist era and then, more wine gives full expression to this sloped ceilings feature exposed beams rare treat, but “nailed” here in Potpis. meal, the pasta was uneven and chewy, from Zagreb. Other perform- grape variety. Its medium body most devoted servants. The Commu- Soon, white wines from Smederevo along the façade, new chambers for the recently, as the Republic of Serbia's resi- sibling delivers and pendant lights, and the walls are A traditional Serbian meal is al- the sauce pale. ers include Serbian jazz stars also matches the higher amount Vasil Hadzimanov and Young nists seized it after they took over Yu- made their way to European markets, King and Queen and rooms for court dential building. of alcohol. Although Chardon- adorned with numerous small pictures most incomplete without the all-time- While MFU offers a modern, interest- Stars Bans, as well as Bojana goslavia following World War II and re- turning the prince into one of the lead- officers, the doctor, the Court Marshal, The end of World War II was very im- nay is not one of my favourites, a decent take on and photos. favourite, cevapi. Potpis serves them ing take on Serbian food, Potpis takes Stamenov, a jazz singer who stored it in the wake of the Non-Aligned ing vine cultivators of his day. You can secretary and lady-in-waiting. portant for the look of the mansion. As thumbs up, perfect for a start. But while MFU creates an original with fresh chopped onions and baked a classical, traditional approach. But represented Serbia at the 2015 Movement's Summit in 1961. still see the plane tree planted by Prince Roughly at that time, the villa be- most of the furniture was either lost or Although I would easily have Serbian traditional and cozy ambience with these ele- potatoes. They were OK, but failed to this puts it in the same pool as count- enjoyed another glass of the Eurovision. Tickets can only However, despite its rich heritage, the Milos, as well as the steppingstone that came one of the most important meet- destroyed by then, the authorities start- ments – a contemporary take on cot- impress. less traditional restaurants around the white, I decided to try their rosé. be bought at Valjevo Cultural th th villa remained off limits to the public the short ruler allegedly used to mount ing places for Serbia's cultural elite. ed buying authentic 18 and 19 -centu- Based on Muscat Hamburg, it fare – but little on tage style – Potpis fails to deliver the Roasted veal, slowly cooked in a city – old and new, big and small, cheap Centre. Contact them at: + 381 for more than 70 years. Apart from po- his horse. Wine is still produced here The royal couple organized parties ry furniture from old Belgrade families same atmosphere. Something seems traditional clay dish, was again quite and expensive. With this kind of com- (0)14 223 21, or czk@gmail. did not meet expectations. This was immediately visible from the menu stands com. litical meetings, it served as a popular under the name Zlatni Breg and can be for prominent and well-known artists, or at various auctions all over Europe. missing. nice but not memorable. It is a breast petition, to stand out from the crowd, a location for shooting films and soap bought at the villa's shop. including poets such as Milan Rakic, The current look of the villa's interior its colour, not the salmon pale With restaurants, as with children, of veal, traditionally a less sought-after restaurant must excel. Potpis still has to that I prefer in rosé but a deeper operas - so TV screens remained the When Milos's son, Prince Mihailo, Laza Kostic and Milovan Glisic and the was fashioned by the curators of the out. the first-borns tend to be more compli- cut that is becoming more fashionable work on that. Slovak sausages shades of ruby and red onion and dancing at only place where the public could see came to power, he decided to dedi- painters Paja Jovanovic and Vlaho Bu- History Museum and the Museum of skin. The aromas at the nose cated. The menu in Potpis is shorter, now. This dish complemented another Another problem for Potpis might Backi Petrovac the former royal home until it finally cate time to the Smederevo estate. So, kovac. Plays written by Branislav Nusic, the Applied Arts in Belgrade. Among resembled berries and rose, but more simple and straightforward than dish we ordered, quite well: podvarak, a be that big brother MFU operates just a opened its doors in 2014. in 1865, he built a one-storey summer the country's greatest playwright, were the surviving exhibits that originally in the mouth it was rather boring Duda&Vlada the one in MFU. It concentrates on tra- Serbian winter dish made of sauerkraut couple of blocks away, offering a next- Backi Petrovac, a town near Five years before that, in 2009, the house in the so-called "Swiss style" that performed there. belonged to the Obrenovics are the and less vibrant. ditional Serbian dishes with little or no and fatty meat and sausages, was also level experience that is only little more Novi Sad, will celebrate its state granted it the status of a cultural was popular among European rulers The last Obrenovic King, Aleksandar dressing table, card table, chess table, The mark-up in Potpis is fair, ne of the recent addi- experiment. in the “acceptable range” by itself, but expensive. days between May 25 and 27 especially for Belgrade stand- May, which is a prime opportu- monument of special importance. at the time. He also arranged the huge and his Queen, Draga, especially loved music stand with royal coat of arms, ards. The service is good, but tions to Belgrade’s res- For the starter, an interesting, beet- benefited from the occasional mix with nity to taste the local specialty, Located less than an hour's drive park around the house and planted their Smederevo residence. The couple Empire-style salon furniture, lanterns, lacks the extra mile that would taurant scene comes infused pink kajmak was brought to us lean and lightly seasoned veal breast. POTPIS dried sausage, known as kulen, from Belgrade and four kilometres rare trees, such as cedars, magnolias, spent every summer there between some porcelain dishes as well as an really recall the good old-school from the owners of Mala alongside a bread basket, which con- A mix of green salads was a nice and Address: Orlovica Pavla 15, while enjoying a glimpse of from the centre of Smederevo, it is now black pines and chestnuts. As Mihailo their marriage in 1900 and their assassi- original painting of Queen Natalija. kafana style. As many times Fabrika Ukusa, MFU, an tained a variety of typical local bakery necessary companion to our hearty, Phone: +381 11 4076369, Slovak traditions in Vojvodina. open three days a week, on Tuesdays, loved sports, he built tennis and cricket nation in 1903. There, they hid from the During all these years, the mansion before in Belgrade, the glass of establishedO restaurant in the Vracar products, such as proja [corn bread] heavy traditional dishes. Price Guide: 1600-2000 dinars Although kulen is produced wine I ordered was not poured in Fridays and Saturdays. A guided tour of courts as well as a small horse stable. prying eyes of those who disapproved hosted many prominent politicians, as front of me but at the bar. neighbourhood. and ustipci [doughnut-like fried dough Homemade pasta with beefsteak, per person for three courses without all over the Pannonian basin, the mansion and the park lasts around Horse races were held in Smederevo of their controversial marriage. [The well as the football legend Diego Mara- All in all, Potpis aims high at of- For years, MFU has been one of our balls, or, in this case, sticks]. our only venture outside the tradition- drinks from Slavonia in Croatia to one-and-a-half hours. twice a year, at Christmas and on To- public did not love Draga, as she was dona during his stay in Serbia. fering traditional Serbian cuisine, go-to places for Serbian food with a Pihtije, a favourite starter in the Bal- Banat in Serbia, the Petrovac dor's Saturday – the first Saturday of older than her husband, was divorced, The last restoration was conducted but still needs time to develop kans, is an aspic-like cold dish usually version is held in high regard contemporary twist, so we were eager ROYALS' COUNTRY Orthodox Lent. was not of a royal origin and had served in 1996, when the roof and façade were before it can be seen whether it to see what their new restaurant had to made from pork, including the head by connoisseurs, and this is the will attract Belgraders. ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ Around that time, Mihailo also made as a lady-in-waiting to the King's moth- refreshed. Next in line for renovation offer. and shank, flavoured with garlic and best chance to buy it directly PLAYGROUND ~ ~ ~ ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” the grape harvest a public event, at- er, Natalija. The King's parents also dis- is the fountain that stands in front of Potpis, meaning “signature”, occu- sprinkled with red paprika powder. from local farmers. Foodies are RESTAURANT KOVAČ advised to make their way here It took around four years for Serbia's tracting numerous politicians, family approved of their marriage.] the main entrance, with the sculpture Basic Info Rating pies a house situated within Cuburski The version served in Potpis was all modern ethno restaurant on Saturday morning, on May Prince Milos Obrenovic, the founder of members as well as ordinary citizens to When the couple was killed in May "Leda with the Swan", by the Serbian park, again in the Vracar area. Origi- right, nothing to write home about, but 26, when local kulen producers the Obrenovic dynasty, to buy the land Mons Aureus. 1903, Queen Natalija, the sole heir to artist Olja Ivanjicki, from the 1960s. nally a maintenance shop, this peculiar enjoyable nonetheless. Being “just nice” Overall GOOD will offer their wares for tast- near Smederevo from its Turkish own- However, it wasn't until the third gen- the property, bestowed the much-loved location was an indoor playground be- is higher a mark for pihtije than for ing and sale on stalls dotted ers. In 1831, he finally managed to ac- eration of the Obrenovic dynasty came summer residence on Colonel Antonije Wine selection GOOD fore becoming a restaurant. As parents many other foods, so we were happy to throughout the town centre. They will also demonstrate quire 30 hectares and started fulfilling to power that court life at the Sme- Oreskovic due to his staunch loyalty to VILA OBRENOVICA Wine service AVERAGE of a small child, we visited the premises finish the plate. how this famous sausage is his dream: building a summer palace derevo summer home was truly estab- the Obrenovics. Address: Timocka St, Smederevo Wine pricing €13 - €117 several times. The breaded red paprika, stuffed with made. In the afternoon, the for his family and cultivating vineyards. lished. King Milan and Queen Natalija During World War I, during the Ger- Opening times: 1 April to 1 October, On entering the restaurant, we were cottage cheese, was probably the best visitors can listen to Slovak However, Milos did not choose this loved spending time here, and the lat- man occupation, the villa was turned Tuesday, Friday and Saturday at 9am, pleasantly surprised by the sheer size one we had ever had. It was “a marriage folk music and watch colourful land by accident; it was widely known ter deserves credit for the reconstruc- into a German hospital. But the Oresko- 10:30am, 12pm, 1.30pm and 3pm Wine and GOOD of it, which the previous tenants had from heaven” that is rarely delivered to Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com dances. as extremely fertile for growing grapes. tion work conducted in 1897. For this, vic family continued to own the house Contact: +381 26 615 666 food pairing not revealed. the optimum. Just like the hot bread with 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 13 ARTS GOING OUT

Students to play classics for free As part of the “Museums for 10” Four Rooftop Bars to Visit series of events, the Museum of Theatre is organising a free concert by some of the best Music oven pizzas. The drinks list is diverse. Academy students on May 19th. Feeling on top of If you’re looking for drinks and dinner Entrance to the concert at the Arts in brief in a hip, comfortable ambience with a museum, at Gospodar Jevre- the world? Try beautiful rooftop view of the city centre mova 9, is free. The students will and the Kalemegdan fortress, you can’t be playing timeless pieces by these chic watering go wrong with Mama’s Shelter. Tchaikovsky, Stravinsky, Prokofiev, Ponce, Hubert and Martin. Some other hotels also offer rooftop holes, which are all bars and restaurants, such as the newly Screening of Verdi’s up in the air and far opened Hilton, Heritage Hotel, Square 'Macbeth’ from Parma Nine and the IN Hotel – but Mama’s Shelter is definitely tops. The Italian Cultural Centre in from the madding Belgrade, at Kneza Milosa 56, in PODRUM WINEART BAR cooperation with Teatro Reggio crowd. from Parma, is organising a series of screenings of operas from the This wine bar in the heart of Dorcol, prestigious Verdi Festival in Italy. David GALIC on the corner of Visnjiceva and On May 21st, Belgrade audiences Gospodar Jevremova, is another great will have a chance to enjoy Verdi’s ummer’s coming and place to visit. Located in a residential “Macbeth,” directed by the great Belgrade’s nightlife has building, the rooftop area might not be Liliana Cavani, and conducted by already shifted into “outdoor that high up in terms of sheer altitude, Bruno Bartoletti. The opera is in mode”, with riverside splavs but the third-floor location still makes Italian with English subtitles. The Five lesser-known art opening their doors and a difference when the weather is screening starts at 6pm. Entrance Smost bars and clubs moving the fun sweltering. is free. into their streetside or courtyard areas. It’s not that big, with only about 10 or 'Women of Dada’ on galleries to explore But those aren’t the city’s only outdoor so tables out on the terrace, but that’s show at art museum wining and dining options. Here are perfect for people seeking something five of the best rooftop nightlife spots a bit more intimate and less crowded. If you still haven’t seen the reno- Eugster II Belgrade (pictured) focuses on contemporary art from the region. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic in Belgrade to check out if you want to It’s all about wine here, and the offer vated Museum of Contemporary enjoy not only a cool summer breeze is tremendous, with wines from more Art [Usce 10], head there on May but fantastic views. than 40 different Serbian wineries and 24th, where in addition to admir- logues and art publications some 50 COLAKOVIC The general orientation of this gallery many more international bottles. ing the collection you can see Away from the an amazing piece of Dadaism- years ago. A few years ago, encouraged GALLERY-LEGACY is heavily experimental, open to pretty MAMA’S SHELTER While food is not the most important inspired performance art by Dah big, well-known by a group of young art curators and much anything, especially to works and aspect of the bar, it does offer fine Theatre, entitled “The Women of theoreticians, his widow decided to peri- This is not truly an indie art space, authors that are perhaps not so easily Currently the most popular rooftop options for lunch, dinner and especially Dada – A Possible Exhibition.” galleries, Belgrade odically open up her apartment and the since the Gallery-Legacy form part of the accepted in more mainstream art spaces bar and restaurant in Belgrade, it is also dessert. Visiting at night affords a great Tickets cost 600 dinars [5 euros]. collection to the public. At the same time, Museum of Contemporary Art. Formally and venues. Each exhibition here is an the newest. Mama’s Shelter, the popular view over the busy Dorcol district and boasts a number of Sinnerman (pictured) is less extravagantly decorated, but offers great views over Nikola Pasic square. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic The performance starts at 8pm. she agreed to occasionally host art exhi- named the Milica Zoric and Rodoljub Co- event in and of itself, often featuring visi- international hotel chain, has opened provides a proper oasis that is slightly bitions, mostly of young and up-and com- lakovic Gallery-Legacy and colloquially tors putting on the exhibition or taking its doors in Belgrade. It’s located on the removed the rest of the bars and Mark’s Church and Slavija all on your outstanding views of the city to boot. This is a trendy bar with an oriental RTS Symphonic not-so-well-known Orchestra at Kolarac ing artists. The apartment at Svetogorska referred to as Colakovic Legacy, this ven- it down once it is over. Cultural elitism is top floor of the new Rajiceva shopping clubs in the area. Podrum Wineart Bar radar. vibe, which matches the setting of gems worth seeking 29 is open every day from 12pm to 6pm. ue in Rodoljuba Colakovica 2, in Dedinje, perceived here as the greatest enemy of centre, at the end of Belgrade’s most attracts a slightly older crowd of wine The rooftop bar isn’t extravagantly BOHO BAR the fortress and its Ottoman history. The Radio Television of Serbia opened in 1980. great art, so the doors at Ostavinska are famed and popular pedestrian zone, enthusiasts with more expensive tastes decorated like most of the others, which Colours are bright and Middle Eastern. Symphonic Orchestra will be play- out. EUGSTER II BELGRADE Back in those days, it was a gem of open for everyone. Knez Mihailova. than the average Dorcol bar-goer. makes it popular among a variety of This bar is not technically a rooftop There are ottomans for sitting around ing a concert at the Ilija M Kolarac modern architecture and it still is today. Mama’s Shelter hotels are known patrons of all types. Sinnerman is all bar, as the ancient Kalemegdan fortress most of the tables, chairs that double as Endowment [Studentski Trg 5] on David GALIC When Eugster II Belgrade opened in After decades of ownership disputes, the TRANSFORMART GALLERY around the world for their interior SINNERMAN JAZZ CLUB about the music. On most nights, they doesn’t really have a roof. But it is one of swings by the bar and even beds with th May 26 at 8pm. Part of the “Sen- 2017, visitors had a feeling that this was house was renovated and reopened in design and the Belgrade location is play jazz on the sound system but live the best outdoor terraces to check out baldachins for relaxation in style. sation” cycle, it will include pieces Fans of art exhibitions in Serbia will the sort of place that would make tourists 2010. In addition to the impressive collec- Possibly the most conventional of the no exception. However, the best thing Another beautiful, central rooftop, bands play also regularly, mostly at in the city, especially in summer. This hip bar offers excellent cocktails by Astor Piazzolla, Arturo Marquez know the bigger and more popular ven- say tell their friends back home” “Oh, you tion of artworks that the Zoric-Colakovic galleries and art spaces mentioned here, about the hotel is the rooftop bar and Sinnerman is on Nikola Pasic Square weekends. You do not get a spectacular view of and light electronic music played by and Sofia Gubaidolina. The soloist playing with the orchestra is Inaki ues in the city by now – but it should be simply must visit Belgrade – it’s so chic spouses collected during their lives, the Transformart is still a gallery well worth restaurant, which is massive – close to and is one of the few rooftop bars that If you’re looking for a rooftop place the city from Boho Bar, but the fact that Belgrade’s most popular DJs. If you’re Alberdi on the accordion. Tickets noted that Belgrade also has a variety of and progressive, it reminds me of New house hosts exhibitions by local and in- mentioning, thanks to its innovative ap- 500 square metres in total. isn’t a hotel bar, or that expensive. You where prices are modest, the dress you are atop of a hill and having drinks looking for a terrace that brings you closer cost from 600 to 1,000 dinars [5 smaller galleries run by dedicated and York and Berlin!” This time, it’s not about ternational artists and serves as a multi- proach to art curation and a series of Food is mostly traditional fare along get a great view of the city here from code is casual and jazz is at the centre, with the walls of an ancient fortress to the cool summer breeze, and is hip, to 8.5 euros]. hard-working curators and artists alike. clubbing or nightlife, however, but about functional art space with ateliers, depots, exciting exhibitions by some of the most with highly recommended wood-fired another angle, with parliament, St Sinnerman man gives you all that, plus surrounding you makes up for that. modern and chic, Boho Bar is the place. art and innovative ways to “do art” in Ser- projection rooms and other facilities. promising Belgrade artists. Glimpse travels through LEGAT FRANKLIN bia. Oh, and did we mention that this house, Located in Svetog Save 8 street in 'Hidden Serbia’ Eugster II was founded by two Swiss which looks like a Laurel Canyon man- Vracar, near the St Sava church, Trans- UK Techno Star Gogol Bordello Bring The Franklin Legacy and Collection nationals living in Belgrade, a writer and sion, also has an outdoor pool? formart has been around for a little over The Serbian Academy of Science Mumdance at Drugstore the Party to SKC and Arts and its Academic Com- is a hidden treasure on the Belgrade art an artist, who decided to design and basi- a year. During this time it has hosted a scene. The venue is not what most people cally build a new art space on the unused OSTAVINSKA GALLERY number of exhibitions but also work- mittee for the Countryside are or- he prolific and engaging British techno DJ Jack Ad- ne of the most exciting live bands out ganizing an exhibition about some think of when they think of an art gallery. Belgrade waterfront in the free trade zone shops – the most impressive one being lesser known sides of Serbia and Franklin is actually an apartment, in an in Viline Vode, on the Danube. The archi- Part of the Magacin Cultural Centre, the the aerial silk acrobatics course – drama ams aka Mumdance will play Drugstore (Bule- there, Gogol Bordello are bringing their var Despota Stefana 115) on May 18. Hosting unique mix of melodic punk, dub and its countryside, entitled “Trave- apartment building, in one of Belgrade’s tectural concept, the extraordinary art Ostavinska Gallery at Kraljevica Marka classes, discussions and more. The leit- such huge names is not unusual at Belgrade’s gypsy music to Belgrade, where they ling Through a Hidden Serbia”. It central streets. But this is no ordinary curation and high-profile support from 8 is specific, as it not only encourages motif of the gallery is transformation, th 'techno cathedral’ but this one is definitely have been enjoying a cult following opens on May 29 at the Gallery apartment but a collection of exhibition the Swiss embassy made the opening of young and not yet established artists, as its name suggests, more specifically a of Science and Engineering at Ta stellar booking. What you can expect from this party Ofor years. They will be promoting their new album, catalogues and art books. this venue one of the more exciting art authors and thinkers to share their inspi- transformation and rejuvenation of art Djure Jaksica 2, at 7pm, and will is a mix of eclectic tunes and beats, from hard techno to 'Seekers and Finders’. Originally from the lower The late Dr Owen Franklin, together events of 2017. One year on, the gallery ration with the world but also keeps an and the art scene but also of the authors’ remain open through to June 15th. UK bass, grime, perhaps a bit of jungle. Mumdance is best east side of Manhattan, Gogol Bordello appear to with his wife, Sonja, who still lives there, has organized a dozen or so exhibitions open calendar and keeps things open in personal transformation into art, and Entrance is free. known for his seminal rinse.fm shows, his vast knowledge be citizens of the world, as their music incorporates started their passion for collecting cata- by groundbreaking contemporary artists. terms of interaction as well. through art. of electronic music and superior taste; he will be support- countless musical traditions - all heavily marinated ed by some of the most exciting local DJs right now, Lil Taty, in the good old punk attitude of irreverence. The con- SAUD and Pharmacist. Tickets are 700 dinars (about 6 euros) cert on May 28 at the Students’ Cultural Centre (Kralja at the door. The party takes place at the club’s captivating Garden Milana 48) starts at 8pm and tickets will cost 2,000 dinars stage, which is perfect for fair-weather raves. (about 17 euros) at the door.

Marko Nastic Leads Dirtmusic Offer Psychedelic Vibes 'Techno Retrospectacle’ Barcelona Gipsy balKan Dirtmusic, an eclectic world music- and Legendary Serbian DJ Marko Nastic is Orchestra at Sava Centre Garage Rock Legend blues-influenced supergroup consisting celebrating 20 years of DJing by throw- Sean Paul Plays Debut Belgrade Show James Leg Returns of members of The Walkabouts, The ing an enormous party called 'Retro- Barcelona’s Gypsy balKan Orchestra, Bad Seeds and Codeine, will be playing spectacle’ with more than 30 DJs playing the second incarnation of the popular One of the most popular mainstream Fans of garage rock should make sure a concert to promote their new, criti- back to back. Nastic aims at revisiting the Barcelona Gipsy Klezmer Orchestra, dancehall and reggae performers of the not to miss this concert by one of the cally acclaimed album 'Bu Bir Ruya’ - a history of the Belgrade clubbing scene is bringing its exciting reinterpretation 2000s, Sean Paul, is coming to Belgrade most prominent artists in the genre, collaboration with Turkish psychedelic with the help of his friends. The party is of Spanish, Jewish and Balkan music to play a concert at the Ranko Zeravica James Leg, who visited Belgrade last rocker and saz player Murat Ertel of the on May 19 and starts at 11pm at Hangar to Belgrade on May 22 at Sava Centre Sports Hall (Pariske Komune 20) on May year and will be back again this month. band Baba Zulu. The gig is at KC Grad (Knezopoljska 3). Tickets cost from 1,200 (Milentija Popovica 9). Tickets range 22 at 9pm. Tickets range from 2,900 He will be performing at KC Grad (Brace (Brace Krsmanovic 4) on May 18 at 10pm. dinars (around 10 euros) to 2,400 dinars from 1,200 dinars (about 10 euros) to dinars (about 25 euros) for the floor and Krsmanovic 4) on May 26, starting at Tickets will cost 2,000 dinars (around 17 (around 20 euros) depending on the sec- 1,800 dinars (about 15 euros) depending fan pit to 3,900 dinars (about 33 euros) 8pm. Tickets are available at the door for euros) at the door. tion you want. on seating. for VIP seats. 1,000 dinars (about 8 euros). 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 15 BELGRADE INSIDER WHAT'S ON City’s Hidden Academic Quarter CLUBBING Guards a Rich Past AND LIVE MUSIC

It is easy to miss the academic past of its professors, scientists and writers FRIDAY MAY 18 • Maiden England, Bozidarac, FRIDAY MAY 25 and whose foundations were laid between 1926 and Radoslava Grujica 3, 9pm secluded ‘Professors’ 1929. • Dirtmusic, Grad Cultural Center, • Andjelka Simic & Band 9, Muha • VIS Limunada, Museum Colony” in the hurly burly At the time, as many as 42 university professors, art- Brace Krsmanovica 4, 9pm Bar, Kralja Petra 18, 9pm of Yugoslavia, Mihaila Mike ists, writers and other scholars lived there, represent- • Black Metallica Tribute Band, • Concrete DJz at KPTM Jankovica 6, 8pm of the city – but this hidden ing an unprecedented concentration of sharp minds SubBeerni Center, Cetinjska 15, 9pm | Luka Concrete, Bojan • Vatra, Dom Omladine, jumble of half-ruined, half and the intellectual elite of the city. Something of that • Girls Boys and Toys, Bitef Art café, Vukmirović(Open Air), KPTM, Makedonska 22, 9pm spirit lives on to this day, not only through the metal Mitropolita Petra 8, 11pm Zorza Klemesoa 22, 4am • Kisobran, KC Grad, Brace renovated houses remains a plaques on the houses, paying tribute to the great • Rain Dogs, Elektropionir, Cetinjska • Aquarius Party, Grad Cultural Krsmanovic 4, 11pm fascinating testament to the minds of the colony, but also in the spirit of the neigh- 15, 9pm Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, • Makao, Bitef Art Café, Mitropolita bourhood. • Stray Train, Fest Club, Gradski 10pm Petra 8, 11pm intellectual ferment of early At least according to a local resident and business- park 2, 10pm • YES : Mitchell Goor (CT / • Larska + Potop, Elektropionir, • Organizam // Strah od Dzeki Pinkman //Rotterdam), Cetinjska 15, 9pm th man who runs Kafe Profesorska Kolonija. Braco Sasha Cena, Zappa Barka, Usce bb, 10pm Drugstore, Bulevar Despota • Zbogom Brus Li / Navy ne 20 Century Belgrade. Dimitrovski is so tied to the professors’ colony that his • Stubovi Pop, Muha Bar, Kralja Stefana 115, 11pm obevaca, Fest Club, Gradski park collection of photos, maps and articles about the area Petra 18, 9pm • Black Merlin UK & Schwabe 2, 10pm Jorgen SAMSO lines the walls of his café, along with radios, typewrit- • Night Of Belgrade Music, Polet, (Disco Not Disco.Tapan), Club • Gift, Zappa Barka, Usce bb, 10pm ers and a bicycle from the early-20th Century. Cetinjska 15, 9pm 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm • Garden Opening with Regis eace and calm gradually descend as you “I wanted to make this into a small museum or • Mumdance (Different Circles / • Danijel Cehranov & Milan Savic (Downwards, UK), Drugstore, escape the heavy traffic and hustle and something like that for people who come here,” he said, Tectonic, UK), Drugstore, Bulevar Saxophone, Tranzit Bar, Brace Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, KOLARAC bustle of Cvijeceva and Bulevar Despota pointing to photos from the 1930s, when trams still ran Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Krsmanovic 8, 11pm 11pm Stefana streets and enter what is known as on 29 November street, which today is called Bulevar • Kristijan Molnar All Night Long / • Vuk Vucko B-Day Party / • FAM • KPTM | XoXo & Che-Woo, PROGRAMME “Profesorska Kolonija”, or, “The Professors’ Despota Stefana. Ponton, Club 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm Arhetip / Vertex, Imago CUK, KPTM, Zorza Klemesoa 22, 11pm PColony”. After strolling through the streets, what is striking • Iron & Goran Starcevic (garden Decanska 14, 11pm • RNB Thursday delight, Lasta As the sound of the nearby traffic dies off to a -dis is not only how different the neighbourhood is to the Profesorksa kolonija is an unpolished gem for aficionados of early-20th Century Photo: Jorgen Samso opening), Tranzit Bar, Brace • Damjan & DJU DJU, Zaokret, Club, Bulevar Vojvode Misica bb, architecture, lovers of Belgrade’s shabby chic-ness and curious city wanderers. tant hum, this small secluded neighbourhood, on the rest of Belgrade, but also how, while some of the houses Krsmanovic 8, 11pm Cetinjska 15, 7pm 11.30pm edge of the city centre, with tree-lined streets, tucked- here are renovated, luxurious and in spotless condi- • Damjanov Zelenko, Ljubimac, • Kanbo, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, FRIDAY MAY 18 Soloist: Robert Lakatos, violin away parks and most importantly, beautiful one-storey tion, others are falling apart. Stojanovica street 9, where Milutin Milankovic lived. café opened up a branch, information boards about Cetinjska 15, 8pm 8pm SATURDAY MAY 26 Programme: G. F. Hendel, P. houses, reveals itself. “You can see exactly who bought the houses in re- This mathematician and geophysicist came up with a the area [in English] have been put up and newcomers • Sljokanje, Strafta Club, Admirala • Cojke, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva Concert Hall, 8pm Konjovic, C. Debussy Some are painted colourfully in pink, some are reno- cent years and renovated them,” Dimitrovski explains, ground-breaking mathematical explanation of recur- are moving in. One of them is the Dutchman Ralph Van Geparta 14, 10pm 44, 11pm • James Leg, Grad Cultural Center, Air/ Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Production: Belgrade Philharmonic Howard Griffiths More information on: +381 11 2630 • Deborah De Luca, Barutana, • Girls Just Wanna Have Fun, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 9pm Conductor: vated and modern, some have fading facades and oth- “and who the children or relatives of the original in- ring ice ages and climate changes, and has craters on Der Zijden whom I met while he was unloading a new Soloist: Yeol Eum Son, piano 744 ers are overgrown with greenery and others are on the habitants here are. Their houses are in relatively bad the Moon and Mars named after him. Or the home of kitchen for a flat he has rented in one of the houses. He Kalemegdan, 11pm Strafta Club, Admirala Geparta 14, • Irie FM, Studentski Grad Cultural Programme: A. Dvorak, F. Schubert brink of ruin. But the common denominator of them all shape, because they are not rich but they have roots the famous Impressionist painter Nadezda Petrovic fell in love with the area after living in Dorcol, an old 10pm Center, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica Production: Belgrade Philharmonic SATURDAY MAY 26 is the intellectual achievements and even fame of their in the former Belgrade intelligentsia and the houses and her brother, the writer, Rastko Petrovic, further up neighbourhood in the very centre of the city. SATURDAY MAY 19 • Marko Nastic, Hangar, Dunavska 179, 9pm More information: 2630744 86, 11pm • Electric Funx, Bitef Art Café, Concert Hall 11am former owners and inhabitants. stayed in the family.” the same street. The house is being turned into a mu- I myself moved in two years ago. So consider this is SATURDAY MAY 19 Small school of manners/ How to The small area is an unpolished gem for aficionados The facades might be crumbling and fences on seum showcasing the art works, collection and life of a hymn to my Belgrade neighbourhood. A residential • Atheist Rap, Barutana, Mitropolita Petra 8, 11pm listen to music of early-20th Century architecture, lovers of Belgrade’s the verge of collapsing but the walls of the one-storey the Petrovics. colony with three parks and a dozen streets, whose ex- Kalemegdan, 8pm SUNDAY MAY 20 • Surreal, Elektropionir, Cetinjska Concert Hall 8pm Host: Milos Milovanovic shabby chic-ness and curious city wanderers, and a houses are rich with stories. Take the house on Rack- That a museum will open up to the public [in time, istence escaped me many times the years, while walk- • Bojana Vunturisevic, Dom 15, 9pm Hypercube/Concert Season 2017/2018 Disney Music Omladine, Makedonska 22, 9pm • Gipsy Music, Polet, Cetinjska 15, • Jimi Hendrix Tribute, Fest Club, Muzikon Orchestra Production: Music Centre far cry from the Socialist-era concrete high-rises and oga Street where the former personal doctor of Haile one might add, as renovations of museums in Belgrade ing along busy Bulevar Despota Stefana or Cvijeceva Artistic Leader: Milos Petrovic 200 dinars • Zoster, SubBeerni Center, Cetinjska 8pm Gradski park 2, 10pm Ticket Price: buildings elsewhere in the city. On the narrow streets Selassie, ex-Emperor of Ethiopia and incarnation of have tendency to drag on for years] is perhaps a sign of street – never making that unexpected right-turn that Programme: Britten, Shostakovich 15, 9pm • Djordje Obradovic trio, Muha • The Cyclist Conspiracy + Hotel of the “colony” you find a pocket in time that has the Jesus, according to the Rastafari movement, lived un- the slow transformation – or even gentrification – of this could have opened up a new corner of Belgrade, full of Production: Muzikon SUNDAY MAY 27 • Gift, Bitef Art Café, Mitropolita Petra Bar, Kralja Petra 18, 7.30pm Makedonia, Zappa Barka, Usce Ticket prices: 800, 1,000 dinars vibe of a village – and a residential area shaped by the til his death in the 1990s. Or the house on Ljubomira sleepy residential area. Recently, a coffee house chain stories and history for me, much, much sooner. 8, 11pm • PARTY at Four | Nexie & John bb, 9pm Concert Hall, 11am • Fish in Oil, Ciglana, Slanacki put Belk, KPTM, KPTM, Zorza • Happy People | Lale & Lukavi, SUNDAY MAY 20 Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber Music 26, 10pm Klemesoa 22, 4am KPTM, Zorza Klemesoa 22, 4am Concert Hall, 11am Spring Concert/ Zemun Chamber • Bandx, Fest Club, Gradski park 2, • FMK Party, Strafta Club, Admirala • Kristina Lalic, TKNO, Sugar Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber Orchestra 10pm Geparta 14, 10pm Lobby & Teo Trunk (Open Air), Music Programme: A. Vivaldi, M. • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Braun, KPTM, Zorza Klemesoa 22, 11pm Trio Susret Mihajlovic, M. Tajcevic, E. Grieg Jelena Sarenac, flute Music Centre Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Garden Opening with Production: Jelena Dimitrijević, violin Admission free plusplusplus and André Pahl, Marija Wuthrich-Savicevic, piano MONDAY MAY 21 Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Programme: J. Loeillet, B. Matrinu, Concert Hall, 8pm Stefana 115, 11pm J. Ibert, Nino Rota Gala Concert • Monday Blues, Dom Omladine, • Dimensions Festival Launch, Production: Music Centre Roman Simovic, violin Admission free Dragan Djordjevic, cello Makedosnka 22, 9pm Club 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm Ivana Damjanov, piano • Qzama Quartet, Bitef Art Cafe • Cojke, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva TUESDAY MAY 22 Chamber Orchestra of the School for Summer Stage, Kalemegdan 44, 11pm the Musically Gifted, Cuprija (Tennis Club Partizan), 10om Concert Hall, 8pm Editor & Artist visit • Above, Mr Stefan Braun, SUNDAY MAY 27 Cycle: TUESDAY MAY 29 Vladimir Milosevic, piano Nemanjina 4, 11pm Dragan Djordjevic, violoncello, as Music Gallery, 6pm • Gipsy Music, Polet, Cetinjska 15, guest Children`s Concert FREE COPY TUESDAY MAY 22 8pm Programme: Mozart, Ravel, Liszt, Ticket price: 300 dinars • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Braun, Bach, Rachmaninoff Production: Music Centre WEDNESDAY MAY 30 • Barselona Gipsy Balkan Nemanjina 4, 11pm Ticket price: 500 dinars Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Orchestra, Saca Center, Milentija Music Gallery, 6pm Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Popovica 9, 9pm MONDAY MAY 28 WEDNESDAY MAY 23 Cycle: Encounter with an Artist • Urban Salsa Party, Imago CUK, Svetlana Stojanovic Kutlaca, Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 harpsichord Decanska 14, 10pm • Gogol Bordello, Students Cultural Concert Hall, 8pm Art Ensemble of the Ministry of J.S. Bach: Goldberg Variation Editor in Chief: Gordana Igric • Malinada, Ludost Bar, Center, Kralja Milana 50, 9pm Defence “Stanislav Binicki” Production: Music Centre BIRN editorial team: Karadjordjeva 44, 9pm • Above, Mr Stefan Braun, Rade Pejcic, conductor Admission free Nemanjina 4, 11pm Petar Pejcic, violončelo Gordana Andric, Marcus Tanner, WEDNESDAY MAY 23 THURSDAY MAY 31 FRIDAY MAY 25 belgradeinsighteditor@birn. TUESDAY MAY 29 Music Gallery, 6pm eu.com • The BlackHeart Procession Concert Hall, 8pm Music Workshop Night, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, • Urban Salsa Party, Imago CUK, Water/ Belgrade Philharmonic Sofia di Somma, violin Sales & Marketing: Marija 8pm Decanska 14, 10pm Orchestra Production: Music Centre Gabriel Feltz Petrovic • Marko Vukovic & Joma Maja at • Malinada, Ludost Bar, Conductor: Admission free Phone: +381 11 4030 302 KPTM (Open Air), KPTM, Zorza Karadjordjeva 44, 9pm Klemesoa 22, 5am [email protected] • Mastering w/ Gramophonedzie WEDNESDAY MAY 30 Subscription & Distribution: & Oysha, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm • Dinamika Music, Studentski Grad Goran Knezevic Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana +381 63 562 265 THURSDAY MAY 24 Djindjica 179, 9pm [email protected] • Schime Trio + One, Grad Cultural • Marija Serifovic, Stark Arena, Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 9pm Printing: POLITIKA stamparija Bulevar Arsenija Carnojevica 58, d.o.o. 8pm THURSDAY MAY 31 ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade • Queen Real Tribute, Fest Club, Gradski park 2, 10pm • Veliki Prezir, Grad Cultural Insight • Dino Dvornik Tribute Band, Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 8pm COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Tranzit Bar, Brace Krsmanovic 8, • Twilight D.C, Fest Club, Gradski Circulation: 2,000 11pm park 2, 10pm • Nebojsa Intruder, Ludost Bar, • Nebojsa Intruder, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 18 - Thursday, May 31, 2018 ARTS AND CULTURE

MONDAY MAY 28 TUESDAY MAY 22 • Phenomenology, Materiality and THURSDAY MAY 24 Opera, Ballet the Challenge of Realism, Institute and Classical • Chamber music Concert, Faculty • The Bereaved Family (Nusic), for Philosophy and social Theory, • Book Presentation “Monster of Music Department, Museum of National Theatre in Belgrade, Kraljice Natalije 45/IV, 12pm Island”, Belgrade City Library, Knez SATURDAY MAY 19 Theatre Art, Gospodar Jevremova 19, Francuska 3, 7.30pm • Cumic Book Fest, Belgrade Design Mihailova 56, 12pm 7pm • Einstein’s Dreams (Lightman), District, Cumicevo sokace bb, 5pm • Cycle of the Center for Studies in • Ballet: Dictionary of the Khazars – • Spring concert of the association of Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja • Exhibition: Women’s Creativity in Asia: Traveling Through History, Dream Hunters, National Theatre in young artists VIVO: Leana Nikolov Milana 50, 8pm Architecture and Design, Museum Culture and Art of South East Asia, Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm (violin), Jovan Nikolov (piano), • The Mercy Seat (LaBute), Yugoslav of Applied Arts, Vuka Karadzica 18, Belgrade City Library, Knez Mihailova Tijana Mihajlović (cello), Cultural Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 6pm 56, 7pm SUNDAY MAY 20 Center of Belgrade, Trg Republike 5, 8.30pm • Conversations on Yugoslavia: • Book Presentation “Serbian Diary 8pm Introduction to (post) Yugoslav of the WWI Report”, Goethe-Institut • Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber THURSDAY MAY 24 Studies, Kvaka 22, Ruzveltova 39, 7pm Belgrade, Knez Mihailova 50, 8pm Music, Trio Sunset, Ilija M. Kolarac TUESDAY MAY 29 • Exhibition: Movements, Milica • Habitability: The Kay Concept Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 11am • Bolivud (Pelevic), National Theatre Krstic, Gallery Beti Ford, Zetska 2, of Astrobiology, Ilija M. Kolarac • Magic Flute, Children’s Concert, Ilija in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm 7pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm MONDAY MAY 21 M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski • Accidental Death of an Anarchist • Ring Ring Festival, Student Cultural • Cycle: Introduction to Serbian trg 5, 6pm (Fo), Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Center, Kralja Milana 48, 8pm Enlightment, Ilija M. Kolarac • Opera: Carmen (Bizet), National Milana 50, 8pm • BELDOCS Film Festival, Cultural Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7.30pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7pm WEDNESDAY MAY 30 Center of Belgrade, Trg Republike 5, • Opera video projection from SATURDAY MAY 26 9pm FRIDAY MAY 25 the Verdi Festival, Macbeth • Concert of Professors of Faculty of • Exhibition: Analogies, Mice (Shakespeare), Istituto Italiano di Music, Italian Cultural Center, Kneza • My Prizes (Bernhard), National Poptsis, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • 70 years of the Institute for the Cultura, Kneza Miloša 56, 6pm Milosa 56, 7pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Studentski trg 5, 7pm Study of Medicinal Herbs “Josif • Nikola Aleksic (violin), Hilda Svan • Svetlana Stojanovic Kutlaca 8.30pm • Cycle: News in the Dentistry Pancic”, Serbian Academy of (piano), Serbian Academy of Sciences (harpsichord), Ilija M. Kolarac • The Imaginary Invalid (Moliere), Science and Practice, Ilija M. Kolarac Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, and Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm 10am • Rebecca Rischin (clarinet), Miona • Opera: Madame Buterfly (Puccini), Milana 50, 8pm • Library Virtual Vertical, Belgrade Barbul (piano), Cultural Center of National Theatre in Belgrade, SATURDAY MAY 19 City Library, Knez Mihailova 56, 6pm Belgrade, Trg Republike 5, 8pm Francuska 3, 7pm SUNDAY MAY 27 • Book Presentation “Butterfly in the • Love poems, Katarina Radovanovic • Exhibition: Death of Karadjordje Blood”, Belgrade City Library, Knez (soprano), Marko Pantelic THURSDAY MAY 31 • The Lady of the Camelias (Fils), Petrovic, Historical Museum of Mihailova 56, 7pm (baritone), Djordje Nesic (piano), National Theatre in Belgrade, Serbia, Trg Nikole Pasica 11, 1pm • Shanghai Window, Studentski Cultural Center of Belgrade, Trg • Mina Aleksic (violin), Jasmina Francuska 3, 7.30pm • Exhibition: Form, Application, Art, Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana Republike 5, 9pm Rakovic (piano), program: • Bolivud (Pelevic), National Theatre Belgrade City Museum, Resavska 40, 1pm Djindjica 179, 7pm Beethoven, Bach, Chopin, Serbian in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm • 15th Museum Night in Serbia, • 3rd Regional Educational Festival, TUESDAY MAY 22 Academy of Sciences and Arts, Knez • Betrayal (Pinter), Yugoslav Drama different locations, 6pm Dorcol Platz, Dobracina 59b, 9pm Mihailova 35, 6pm Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Exhibition: Oasis, Blatobran Gallery, • Cycle: News in the Dentistry • Vladimir Milosevic (piano), Dragan • Jelena Djajic Levajac (piano), • Till Death Do Us Part (Furlan), Gospodar Jevremova 38, 6pm Science and Practice, Ilija M. Kolarac Djordjevic (cello), Ilija M. Kolarac City Assembly Hall, Dragoslava Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja • Poetry Live – Evening with Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Jovanovica 2, 8pm Milana 50, 8.30pm Milovan Danojlovic, Ilija M. Kolarac • Sofia di Somma (violin), Ilija M. Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7pm MONDAY MAY 28 THURSDAY MAY 24 Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg TUESDAY MAY 29 • Ring Ring Festival, different 5, 6pm locations, 8pm • Robotics, Neuroscience and • Andreas Sengahe (piano), program: • Death and the Dervish (Selimovic), Surgery for Restoration of Beethoven, Serbian Academy of National Theatre in Belgrade, SUNDAY MAY 20 Motor Function with Handicap Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova Theatre Francuska 3, 7.30pm Conference, Serbian Academy of • Bizarre (Hubac), National Theatre in • Cumic Book Fest, Belgrade Design Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 35, 6pm FRIDAY MAY 18 • Music School “Kosta Manojlovic” Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm District, Cumicevo sokace bb, 11am 10am • Exhibition: DRAFT: Orientation • Society of Fantasy Fans "Lazar Concert, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • The Power of Darkness (Tolstoy), Studentski trg 5, 8pm WEDNESDAY MAY 30 in Contemporary New Media Art, Komarcic", Dom Omladine, National Theatre in Belgrade, Museum of Contemporary Art Salon, Makedonska 22, 7pm Francuska 3, 8.30pm FRIDAY MAY 25 • The Importance of Being Ernest Pariska 14, 7pm • Cycle: The European Union Between • Betrayal (Pinter), Yugoslav Drama (Wilde), National Theatre in Belgrade, • Ring Ring Festival, different Crisis and Reforms, Ilija M. Kolarac Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Francuska 3, 8.30pm locations, 8pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm • Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, • Till Death Do Us Part (Furlan), Gabriel Feltz (conductor), Robert • Literary Evening – Tomislav Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja THURSDAY MAY 31 MONDAY MAY 21 Jovanovic: Zri Zde, Ilija M. Kolarac Lakatos (violin), Ilija M. Kolarac Milana 50, 8.30pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7.30pm • The Bereaved Family (Nusic), • Golden Years: The Best Music SATURDAY MAY 19 SATURDAY MAY 26 National Theatre in Belgrade, Albums of The 20th Century # 4, Dom TUESDAY MAY 29 Francuska 3, 7.30pm Omladine, Makedonska 22, 6pm • The Marriage (Gogol), National • Exhibition: Practicum, Museum of • Exhibition: Traveling through • Saturday at 6pm: Students of Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, the Department of Solo Singing, African Art, Andre Nikolica 14, 6pm the Serbia hidden gems, Serbian 8.30pm Exhibitions Academy of Sciences and Arts Gallery, National Library of Serbia, Skerliceva , • Society of Fantasy Fans "Lazar • The Woman From Sarajevo (Nusic) Djure Jaksica 2, 6pm 1, 6pm Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja and Events Komarcic", Dom Omladine, • Exhibition: Planet Earth, • Small school of Bonton/ How Milana 50, 8pm Makedonska 22, 7pm to listen to the Music – Disney FRIDAY MAY 18 • Exhibition: Snezana Vujovic Singidunum Gallery, Knez Mihailova 40, 7pm Music, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, SUNDAY MAY 20 Nikolic, House of Petar I Cultural Studentski trg 5, 11am • 13th Belgrade International Week Center, Vase Pelagica 40, 7pm • Cycle: Serbian Language Today, Ilija • RTS Symphony Orchestra, Inaki • The Minister’s Wife (Nusic), National of Architecture (BINA), different • Exhibition: The Evolution of Life M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Alberdi (violin), Bojan Sudjic Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, locations on Earth, Museum of Science and trg 5, 6pm (conductor), Ilija M. Kolarac 7.30pm • Exhibition: Jewelry, Nenad Raca, Technology, Dobracina 51, 7pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm • The Orchestra (Anoulin), National ULUPUDS Gallery, Uzun Mirkova 12, • Cycle: The European Union WEDNESDAY MAY 30 • Opera: Aida (Verdi), National Theatre Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 10am Between the Crisis and Reforms, in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7pm 8.30pm • Exhibition: Milija Glisic, Gallery 73, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • Exhibition: Aleksa Santic (1868-1924- • A Month In the Country (Turgenev), Pozeska 83a, 10am Studentski trg 5, 6pm 2018), Serbian Academy of Sciences SUNDAY MAY 27 Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja • Exhibition: Ivan Ancic, RTS Gallery • Literary Evening – Vladimir and Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 10am Milana 50, 8pm Takovska 10, 10am Kasnar: Durable Imprints, Ilija M. • Cycle: Childhood in Prehistory, Ilija • Spring concert of the Zemun • WTF We Doing Here? (Maletkovic), • The First Meeting of a Neurologist Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg 5, M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg chamber orchestra, Dunja Kalamir Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja of Southeastern Europe on 7.30pm 5, 7.30pm (violin), Djordje Stankovic Milana 50, 8.30pm Multiple Sclerosis, Serbian Academy (conductor), Ilija M. Kolarac of Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova TUESDAY MAY 22 THURSDAY MAY 31 Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm, MONDAY MAY 21 35, 10am 11am • Exhibition: Karadjordjeva – Mosaic, • Davorin Jenko / Josip Slavenski, • Habitability: The Kay Concept • Gala Concert, Chamber Ochestra of the • Dust (Spiro), National Theatre in Art Pavilion Cvijeta Zuzoric, Mali Serbian Academy of Sciences and of Astrobiology, Ilija M. Kolarac Music Talents Cuprija, Roman Simovic Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm Kalemegdan 1, 10am Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 1pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm (violin), Dragan Djordjevic (cello), • Right You Are, If You Think So • Exhibition: Artistic Collaborative • Popular Music of 1968: America, • Cycle: Introduction to Serbian Ivana Damjanov (piano), Ilija M. Kolarac (Pirandello), Yugoslav Drama Group Dim Tim, Zvono Gallery, Studentski Grad Cultural Center, Enlightment, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Visnjiceva 7, 12pm Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7.30pm

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