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Home , Batavia (1628 ship), Francisco Pelsaert, Houtman Abrolhos, Jeronimus Cornelisz, Pelsaert Group, Wallabi Group

Islands Destination Abrolhos

… while the and are the most well-known, there are thought to be many more lying undiscovered

were enthralled by stories of the Batavia – , lost treasure and particularly seeing the skeleton exhumed from Beacon Island, complete with a grizzly axe wound to the skull! A perfect weekend loomed in March – the weather was set to be calm for the following five days – so I sprang into action, getting everything packed for an evening tow to . There are shacks on the Abrolhos owned by lobster fisherman who work there, but unless you have written consent to stay, all visitors must sleep on their own vessel and be fully self-sufficient. SAFETY FIRST well-known, there are thought to be many more LeisureCat that we had a suitable vessel to Safety is paramount, particularly when attempting Western ’s Houtman Abrolhos lying undiscovered. attempt the voyage, which, in our case, was more offshore trips. We took every extra piece of safety In addition to their colourful past, the than a 400km round trip. equipment we owned – a satellite phone, a spare Islands are rich in history and wildlife. Abrolhos Islands display a remarkable assortment EPIRB, a well-equipped first aid kit plus a new Yagi of sea life, flora and fauna, with over two million WAITING FOR WEATHER antenna to provide mobile phone coverage. hipwreck, mutiny, murder and survival add to birds breeding on the islands. Tropical and Following some marine chart preparation, I filled the esky with ice, packed pre-made Sthe mystique of the 122 remote and rugged temperate oceans meet along the 100km spread our only problem was waiting for the perfect frozen meals and filled every available storage islands of the Houtman Abrolhos, often referred of islands, treating anglers to a variety from weekend, with very little wind and swell; a rare space in the boat with food, a small barbecue, Left: Stunning Turtle Bay.

to informally as the Abrolhos Islands, located off pink snapper to trout and big pelagic species. occurrence at the Abrolhos. some pots and eating utensils, snorkelling gear, Above: This skeleton exhumed Geraldton on ’s mid-west coast. Famous for its superb diving, fishing, Our three boys, Austin (eight years old), fishing gear, inflatable body boards, cameras and from Beacon Island has a fatal axe wound to the skull; Rich in history and sunken treasure, 20 snorkelling, windsurfing and surfing, the Abrolhos Cooper (5) and Bailey (3), were as excited as we plenty of extra fresh water. a reminder of the atrocities shipwrecks have been found in Abrolhos waters is a destination we always wanted to visit. It were about our big adventure. They had visited Having towed the LeisureCat the last 100km that occurred during ’ bloodthirsty mutiny By Emma George and, while the Batavia and Zeewijk are the most was only when we purchased our seven-metre the shipwreck museum in several times and of the drive on Saturday morning, we were in 1629.

108 109 greeted by the most spectacular view – the Indian explorers, ready to discover a shipwreck for the Ocean was like a lake. We couldn’t have wished first time. for a better weekend. We filled the boat with fuel Our destination was the northern Wallabi and launched at the main Geraldton boat ramp. Group of islands, around 50nm (90km) from We have done plenty of adventurous four- Geraldton. I was hoping the swell would be minimal wheel drive trips and remote camping, but this so Austin and I could snorkel the Batavia wreck. was easily the biggest trip we had attempted in My husband, Ashley was keen to catch our boat. Totally self-sufficient, we felt like early some good sports fish, while Cooper was rather intrigued by the story of the Batavia mutiny and wanted to visit Long Island where the ‘baddies’ Geralton were hung. We were all hopeful of finding the Houtman Webbe-Hayes Forts, the oldest European-made Abrolhos structures in Australia, now 385 years old. North Island Travelling at 23 knots, we were making comfortable progress to the Wallabi Islands.

Wallabi Group Perth Undistracted by flocks of birds feeding on bait East Wallabi pushed up by tuna and other pelagic species, we Island focused on our initial goal – to find Batavia. We Beacon motored past big fish sounding on our Garmin Island West and after almost two hours of travelling, land Wallabi The wreck Island of the Batavia appeared in the distance. Easter BATAVIA AHOY! Group As we approached Morning Reef, the shipwreck Leo Island icon appeared on the sounder and we scouted Rat Island Suomi for the sand patch, easily spotting a bright blue Island break in the reef. The planets had aligned – it was calm. Ashley dropped me off in three metres of Pelsaert water, then took the boat out deeper to avoid the Group dangerous reef ahead. I was greeted by a massive coral trout, schools Top: Abrolhos Islands (courtesy of Tourism Western Australia) of buffalo bream and huge King George whiting Pelsaert Above: Shacks are situated Island as I hunted for remains of the wreck. As I swam on 22 of the islands, with further toward the reef I saw an anchor, then a the main export being the profitable western rock lobster. cannon and yet another anchor. It was incredible.

110 shaped coral and bommies, 12m below the boat. We could see fish following our soft plastics and the kids delighted in watching trout, emperor, cod and baldchin grouper take their lures. With a wealth of fishing options, we headed for the deeper water and reef breaks for a bit of pelagic action. It didn’t take long for our deep diving lures to cause a stir, producing a good-sized Spanish mackerel. But dinner was on the agenda so we changed direction again, this time targeting bottom- dwellers. Within minutes of dropping my bait, I hooked a lovely West Australian dhufish, my favourite eating fish. The crystal clear water was so inviting, it was time to pack away the rods and As I swam further toward the reef explore some of the closer reefs. The water was so astonishingly calm and clear I saw an anchor, then a cannon and yet and the fish were indifferent to our presence. another anchor. It was incredible Coral trout poked their heads out to greet us and the kids swam over a two-to-three-metre shovel nosed shark, sleeping soundly beneath them. There I was in just two metres of water, looking We bobbed our heads under plate coral to The water was so astonishingly calm and clear at history, which has been in a watery grave for see a large grouper, tropical fish swam past and and the fish were indifferent to our presence almost 400 years. stag horn coral and plate coral surrounded us, I yelled to everyone that we had found it and with about 30m of visibility in all directions. Austin quickly donned his fins and mask to join me, It was a delight to be in this underwater full of adrenaline. He held my hand and squealed wonderland, so spectacularly beautiful. As the with excitement as the cannons and anchors came sun approached the horizon, we stopped off for a into sight. This was a great experience shared with quick exploration at Long Island, before mooring my eight-year-old, who was courageous enough to in Turtle Bay for our last night. jump into an unknown ocean, with breaking waves behind us, to discover history. FORTIFICATIONS After so much hype and anticipation, this With no clear boat passage, it was difficult to experience surpassed all our expectations. know which way to access the forts on West Tired after hours in the boat, it was time to hit Wallabi Island. the beach so we made our way to East Wallabi I stood on the front of the boat, scouting Island and the squeaky white sands of spectacular coral bommies as we tried to find access from Tur tle Bay. the eastern side. Fortunately, the presence of a had arrived in exactly the right location.

Above: One of the many There was only one other boat on a mooring sightseeing plane doing circuits around the island The boys ran ahead on the scrubby tracks, anchors of the Batavia found buoy, so we had the island to ourselves and the was a great clue as to the location of the forts. scaring the small wallabies in their haste to find near Morning Reef is still in good condition despite being kids ran along the beach searching for shells. We tracked further north with the water only the forts. We could hear excited yelling ahead; in the water for almost 400 Lizards scurried along the tracks and a majestic 70cm deep and decided to drop anchor around they had discovered a fort perched on the high years. white-bellied sea eagle lurched into full flight as the 300m from shore and wade in. point of the island. Top right: The white-bellied sea eagle is one of millions of boys approached its perch on the viewing platform. I dragged the older boys on their inflatable Small enough to shelter 10 or so men, the birds which live on or visit the I was pleasantly surprised to find a sun shelter, sleeping on the boat was cosy and cheerful and boards and Bailey rode on Ashley’s shoulders as hand-built structure has survived intact for over Abrolhos Islands every year. Above: Austin proudly shows marked walking trails and numerous signs outlining we were so excited about our day’s activities, we we headed for land. I envisaged the mutineers 385 years, despite cyclones and the roughest of off his bald chin grouper Right: Native to East and the wildlife and history of the island. My only wish couldn’t wait for morning. doing the same thing, but with their bare feet weather imaginable. The shallow wells, which (endemic to Western Australia , the and great eating), caught on a was an was that we could stay longer as our first day was being torn to shreds on the jagged coral. kept the soldiers alive, were still visible and a local soft plastic in shallow water. important food source for the survivors of the Batavia. nearly over. SIGHT FISHING We clamoured up the sharp rocks to be met carpet python had even taken up residence in one. Soft plastics proved to be The small marsupial can still After exploring the island, we motored to The visibility was amazing; some of the best I have by a historic sign about the forts and how to look While the snake distracted the kids, I made irresistible to the local be found hopping around the population, including this nice historic islands. the public mooring, 100m offshore. Dinner and seen. Coral trout were cruising between the fan- after the area. We couldn’t believe our luck; we my way to the second fort and hid some replica coral trout.

112 113 pewter Batavia coins I had secretly purchased at the Perth Shipwreck Museum and waited for them to find the ‘treasure’. The excitement on Above: Bailey inspects the their faces was like Christmas morning. almost 400-year-old Wiebbe Hayes forts, the oldest With a two-hour boat trip and a five-hour European made structures in Australia. drive home ahead of us, it was time to leave the and head for Geraldton. This trip Right: One of the wells, which held precious water for the was one of our best weekends ever, but with so soldiers 385 years ago, was much more to do and see, we all can’t wait to the perfect resting place for this carpet python. return.

FACT BOX What to do: Fishing (bottom and game fishing), The Islands: snorkelling, scuba diving, surfing, windsurfing, Wallabi Group: Batavia shipwreck, Webbe-Hayes observing abundant birdlife and marine life, forts exploring historical heritage (shipwrecks and : Beautiful lagoons and sandy structures). beaches Safe anchorages: Moorings are available for boats : Zeewijk shipwreck, island relics up to 25m long, located at the Easter Group, Best time of year to visit: February-June and North Island, Pelsaert Group and Wallabi Group. September-October. Industry: Former fertiliser mining from Where to stay: On a charter boat, your own 1880-1920 and fishing operations, current Using the boat as a caravan, this overnight stop had great vessel or a shack owned by a lobster fisherman commercial fishing and rock lobster industry, ocean views and being so calm, (you need to be acquainted with the owner and farming, finfish and scallop fisheries. it was the perfect start to an Abrolhos adventure. have written permission). More information: Department of Fisheries Abrolhos Islands Guide is a great resource. Go to: wa.gov.au, then search for Abrolhos. Geraldton Visitors Centre: geraldtonvisitorcentre. com.au. Books to read: Batavia by Peter FitzSimons, (2011, Random House). Weather: The Abrolhos are classified as open ocean and weather conditions are highly changeable, with seas reaching several metres. Reefs can be difficult to negotiate – be cautious, take heed of weather conditions and carry appropriate safety and survival gear.

114 Owned by the , she 33 days for the voyage; considered one of the was on her maiden voyage to the Spice Islands greatest feats of navigation in an open boat. (now known as the Maluku Islands of Indonesia), Governor General Coen provided Pelsaert carrying a wealth of silver coins, gold and jewels. with the ‘jacht’ Saardam to rescue the survivors, It was also one of the most heavily armed ships of but it took an incredible 63 days to re-locate the its time. wreck site. The ship ran aground on a moonlit night and despite the crew’s best effort to offload ballast MUTINOUS MURMURINGS in the form of cannons and anchors, it could not Senior officer Jeronimus Cornelisz had been be freed and finally broke apart on the reef a few scheming a mutiny for weeks and the shipwreck days later. But there was enough time for most provided the perfect opportunity to take of the 322 people aboard to reach the nearby control, while Pelsaert was on his rescue mission. islands, although about 40 lives were lost in the Cornelisz sent a group of soldiers under the treacherous seas. command of Wiebbe Hayes to explore the islands Essential supplies were recovered, along that could be seen on the horizon. He confiscated with some of the treasure, but there was their firearms before they left and assumed they Mutiny, mayhem and minimal fresh water and food available, with would never return. most surviving on sea lions, birds and shellfish. With his accomplices, Cornelisz then set about murder Commander , as well as eliminating any potential opponents, murdering The story of the Batavia is one of the most some crew and passengers, left 268 survivors men, women and children, while keeping a few shocking in Australian maritime history, involving on two islands whilst they went in search of women for himself and his devotees. the brutal murder of over 120 men, women and water. As luck would have it, Wiebbe Hayes found children by mutineers, who took control after the Unsuccessful on , the party water on West Wallabi Island and sent a smoke ship ran aground at the Abrolhos Islands on June 4, instead made its way in a nine-metre longboat signal to alert Cornelisz. But some days later, 29-5-city-of-melbou 2014-08-21T15:49:23+10:001629. to Batavia (modern ), to seek help. It took survivors from Beacon Island swam to West The remaining mutineers were taken to Wallabi Island, informing the soldiers of Cornelisz’s Batavia for trial, where five were hanged, with murderous rampage. others receiving various punishments. A board Wiebbe Hayes and his men built forts from of inquiry decided that Pelsaert had exercised Opposite: A Dutch-built replica lime­stone and coral blocks and made weapons from a lack of authority and was partly responsible. of the Batavia. materials washed up from the wreck. They kept His financial assets were seized, and he died a Above: Historic sketches of the massacres and hangings that Moor in watch during the night in anticipation of an attack. desperate man within a year. comprise the Batavia tragedy. Cornelisz did attack, but the soldiers were Wiebbe Hayes was hailed a hero and Below: The Shipwreck well fed and managed to win several battles, promoted to sergeant and later lieutenant, which Museum in Perth has relics from the Batavia including Melbourne City Marina finally taking Cornelisz hostage. The mutineers increased his salary immensely. salvaged wood from the hull, Melbourne cannons, coins and numerous who escaped regrouped under Wouter Loos Of the 322 people on board the Batavia, only A dedicated visitor berthing facility which features: artifacts recovered from the and launched another attack, this time almost 68 made it to the port of Batavia alive. ¿ Albrolhos Islands. 28 short-term visitor berths (terms and conditions apply) defeating the soldiers. On-site marina office and dockmaster assistance The mutineers’ plan was to hijack the rescue seven days a week ship. The delusional Cornelisz even envisaged Marina lounge with internet, private bathroom and starting a new kingdom, using the gold and silver laundry facilities salvaged from the Batavia. 24 hour security and CCTV When the Saardam finally came into sight,

Gated facility from 6pm to 7am both parties made a rush for the boat. Luckily, Wiebbe Hayes made it first, alerting Pelsaert to Three-phase power, water, and free sewage pump-out facilities the atrocities of the past three months. Pelsaert conducted a trial immediately. Easy access to the city and surrounds via trams 70, 86 Cornelisz and several of the major mutineers had and free City Circle, train at Southern Cross Station, free Melbourne Tourist Shuttle bus and taxi their hands chopped off before being hanged on the islands. Wouter Loos and a cabin boy were Public car parking located Harbour Town and New Quay abandoned on mainland Australia, as they were considered minor offenders.

For more information, contact Melbourne City Marina on (03) 9658 8738, 117 email: [email protected] or visit: melbourne.vic.gov.au/waterways

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