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French Beer Craft: Redefining the Image Thiriez, a Brewery in the Nord-Pas-De-Calais Region of French Beer by Daina Paulin

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French Beer Craft: Redefining the Image Thiriez, a Brewery in the Nord-Pas-De-Calais Region of French Beer by Daina Paulin THE FRENCH EVOLUTION FRENCH BEER CRAFT: REDEFINING THE IMAGE Thiriez, a brewery in the Nord-Pas-de-Calais region OF FRENCH BEER By Daina Paulin ven many devoted Francophiles try. Brittany, located in northwest France, are surprised to learn that there is a has become a new brewing center with an E lively craft brew scene in France. estimated 10 operating breweries. “When we began in the mid 1990s there were only eight breweries in all of France,” says Dominique Sialelli, founder of Brasse- rie Pietra, one of the leading producers of THE TRADITIONALISTS regional specialty beers in France. “Craft It is important to note that bourgeon- beer only represented 1% of the market at ing brewers are not the only producers in that time.” Despite the small market for re- France. The majority of French beer con- gional beer, and his lack of brewing experi- tinues to come from two primary regions ence, Sialelli and his wife, Armelle, set out in the north of the country, Nord-Pas-de- to create Corsica’s first beer. “For us, it was Calais and Alsace. important to create a beer that reflected the Nord-Pas-de-Calais, home to the beer, Jenlain, has been reintroducing this traditions of our region,” he explains. As a greatest number of French breweries, style to French and international markets. result, the brewery uses chestnuts— shares a great deal of history and The brewery is also credited for sharing its one of Corsica’s signature crops— brewing methods with its neighbor yeast with other regional brewers who are as the key ingredient for their flag- Belgium. The region’s signature working to expand traditional styles. This ship beer, Pietra. Their white beer, style of beer, bière de garde (“beer collaboration between breweries has been Columba, is made with a combina- to keep”), undergoes a second fer- important for the development of the re- tion of local herbs. mentation phase at very low tem- gion. “Our relationship with other small Brasserie Pietra is not alone. peratures. As a result these beers breweries in our region and around France is In the last 10 years there has are more like Belgian ales than important,” shares Jean-Jacques Giard, the been a growing revival of re- lagers. export manager for Brasserie Duyck. “We gional craft beer in France. Although the style all but need to ensure quality to improve the im- Between 2003 and 2007 the disappeared after the Second age of Nord-Pas-de-Calais and French beer number of breweries has more World War, it has been making a in general.” than doubled, jumping from strong comeback in recent years. Other leading breweries in the region 27 to 70, according to the One of the breweries recognized producing bière de garde, along with other group Brewers of Europe, and for reviving bière de garde is the styles of beer, include La Choulette, Theiller, small breweries have been Brewery Duyck, whose flagship Thiriez, Brasserie Saint-Germain and the photograph courtesy of Thiriez brewery popping up around the coun- THE FRENCH EVOLUTION Jenlain, a brewery in the Nord-Pas-de-Calais Castelain Brewery which produces the recognized Ch’ti line of beers. Alsace, a region that produces half of the country’s beer, is known for its lighter German-style lagers. The region “French beers represent great value,” continues to be an important brewing points out Daniel Shelton, founder of Shel- center, dominated by industrial giants ton Brothers Imports. “Everyone has had a Kronenbourg and Heineken. Brasserie love affair with Belgium, but few people re- Fischer & Adelshoffen, now a subsidiary alize that France is producing great beers at of Heineken, continues to produce craft- lower prices, and many in the same styles style beers including its signature Fischer as their Belgian or German counterparts.” La Belle, a pale lager, as well as Fischer Shelton, whose company represents Réserve Ambrée; Adelscott, a smoked over 30 craft beers from France, sees edu- beer; and Desperados, a mainstream lager cation as the most important factor for the with an unusual touch of added tequila. category, believing that many people who are already drawn to France for its region- al products will quickly become enamored REACHING THE with the country’s beers. “One of our targets is to reach wine drink- AMERICAN CONSUMER ers,” he explains. “We want to show people French beer as a category has enjoyed that beer can be as rewarding as wine, and considerable growth in recent years, that the French are as good at brewing as with its exports to the U.S. more than they are at their other crafts. Like anything doubling in value from 2005 to 2007, ac- worthwhile, it will just take some time.” n cording to UbiFrance. However, it may be in today’s market with an emphasis on For additional information, please visit: the price-minded consumer that French www.brasseurs-de-france.com beers will receive even greater attention. France is one of the most diverse spirit and winemaking countries on the planet. In addition to the many regions and styles described in this feature, please check out these great websites: www.vinsalsace.com www.loirevalleywine.com www.vinsdeprovence.com To view or download additional copies of this section, The French Evolution, please visit www.BevNetwork.com..
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