INSIDE: A Beach for Families 2 Fish Festival 4 Romantic Il Pellicano 8 Elisabeth Antoine Crawford Elisabeth Antoine Crawford Festa del Pesce SPECIAL REPORT: THE COAST OF 10 Great Things to Do on the dream of Island of ® tunning beaches and glowing sunsets attract countless vacationing Italians to the S island of Elba, located off the coast of southern Tuscany. While July and August are the busiest months— and perhaps the ones to avoid—there Volume 10, Issue 4 www.dreamofitaly.com May 2011 are plenty of spots to escape the crowds (and heat) during the less sweltering months of May and June. Rediscovering Paradise in In fact, all the major sights are open from April to October, so consider an off-season trip for maximum tranquility. Feel free to spend your vacation in exile, enjoying il dolce far hen asked to recall my most to a sandy cove below. Like an niente—but if you begin to yearn for a Wperfect memory of absolute unwanted stepchild banished to a bit more exploration, here are ten bliss, I immediately fairytale tower, I was given terrific things for you to discover. picture myself floating on the closet-sized room on the my back in the tranquil sea roof. Although it had no 1. Mountain High off Baia Santa Lucia, the sun bathroom (I had to go down beating down on my face the outside stairway to get From the hill town of , take a and limbs, the buoyant into the main house), my cabinovia to the 3343-foot summit of water sending my thoughts roof-tower room was truly Monte Capanne. Any fear of heights drifting into oblivion. paradise. will be seriously Several years prior, I had challenged during spent two months as a The door opened directly the 20-minute ride student at the dance festival Pro Danza onto the roof, an open terrace with over steep granite Italia, and I had now returned to panoramic views of the sea. I cliffs. The yellow, Castiglioncello—located on the Tuscan remember watching sunsets fill the sky open-air baskets coast just south of —to teach a with shades of fuchsia, periwinkle, and are barely large Pilates workshop at the same festival. crimson, and I often awoke during the enough for two night just to see the moonlight sparkle people and sway All the teachers were given lodging at over the horizon. precariously in the Villa Santa Lucia, a spacious home breeze. Once at the perched high on a cliff, with thatched- During my free afternoons, I would summit landing, climb the steps to roof gazebos spilling down the hillside spend hours at Bagni Italia—a beach the rocky peak for a panoramic view continued on page 4 continued on page 6 All of Italy’s beaches are packed in August. Forte dei Marmi: Family-Frien

day at the beach is Upscale shopping is plentiful (the you’ll be hooked! guaranteed fun for kids weekly open-air market is Tip: During summer months these clubs and many families come to Wednesday). There are numerous A are very busy. Ask your hotel to make a me asking for ways to places to eat gelato. Plus you will find reservation for you well ahead of time. include a bit of the Italian plenty of places for little kids to safely coast in their Italian vacation run around. There’s a wonderful itineraries. Beach time in Italy provides waterfront Easy Access a terrific break from sightseeing and promenade that is touring. paved and flat — Another benefit of Forte dei perfect for all- Marmi is the easy-to-access Tuscany is our most requested family bike rides, location. Located about 60 destination on Ciao Bambino and it has strollers and miles west of , you many of Italy’s highlights for families general can easily add a few nights at including Siena, San Gimignano and meandering. the beach to the typical Florence. My favorite beach resort in flickr.com yahya, Tuscany countryside itinerary. this region is Forte dei Marmi in the Family-Friendly Beach . You can also create a day trip to Forte So many of Italy’s iconic coastlines are dei Marmi from Florence and anything Here’s why I like it so much. rocky cliffs. While this is good for jaw- in that immediate area — it will take dropping photos, it’s not ideal for about 1.5 hours to drive there (each May 2011 May Vacation with Italians children. The beach in Forte dei Marmi way), although, an overnight stay is 2 is flat, sandy, with little surf — perfect recommended to fully appreciate the You don’t feel like you’re giving up for wading and playing in the water. entertaining resort vibe. your authentic Italian experience here. Real Italians — not just tourists — Forte dei Marmi’s beach is lined with Where to Stay with Kids spend their holidays in Forte dei private beach clubs where you pay a Marmi. When I toured the daily fee for chairs, services, and a You’ll pay a premium to be on the (another coastal area clean bathroom. It’s waterfront. We like California Park Hotel of Tuscany) a few hotel-like without located just a few blocks from the

www.dreamofitaly.com years ago I was the room and beach; family-owned, the atmosphere disappointed to find indoor amenities. is warm, friendly, and they have a that many of the huge grassy garden popular beach towns These beach for kids. Rooms are were inundated clubs are simple but with people from absolutely ideal comfortable. Their everywhere in with kids! You Paolo Alfieri, flickr.com Alfieri, Paolo Europe ... but Italy. can escape the sun, have a sand-free lunch and The atmosphere in Forte dei Marmi is relax on a comfortable chair. I wish all about relaxation versus sightseeing, we had more of this concept on our making it a typical beach vacation type beaches in the U.S. Some clubs like of place. You have to go during the Bagno Annetta offer a swimming

summer season to appreciate this in pool and kids’ activities. Other flickr.com doyoukekko, full. Days are spent on the beach, favorite clubs for families are Bagno afternoons loitering through the town Costanza, Bagno Peppe Ponete and Bagno and evenings are spent eating (of Piero. A day at the beach, including course!). food and access fees, runs about 75 to 150€ per family. Once you try it — flickr.com doyoukekko, Opera star Andrea Bocelli dly Beach Vacation

suite category is perfect for families. walls; a favorite family activity in run from Forte dei Tuscany is bike riding or strolling on Marmi to Cinque Another family-friendly option is Villa top of these walls. Terre over the Roma Imperiale. This hotel has a home- summer months. flickr.com Angelo Salvioni, Michele like feel with a gorgeous garden and Another great day trip is to Pinocchio grounds. This is one of the few hotels Park in Collodi. Families can re-live this Finally, another fantastic excursion is to with dedicated kids-focused treats classic fable through take a road trip up the coast including free ice cream and soda, sculptures and exhibits. The through the much-loved and children’s bike rentals and a special drive from Collodi back to photographed seaside towns welcome gift. Forte dei Marmi takes an of Santa Margherita Ligure hour. and Portofino, 1.5 hours each Tip: Italian families flock to Forte way (without stops). dei Marmi in late July and August The division and you’ll find that available hotel between —Amie O’Shaughnessy rooms are virtually impossible to The Details Tuscany and find. Lucca is just a 30-minute Amie O’Shaughnessy is the Where to Stay Liguria drive from Forte dei Marmi and editor of Ciao Bambino begins just (www.ciaobambino.com), an works as a homebase in a pinch. California Park Hotel

Paolo Alfieri, flickr.com Alfieri, Paolo award-winning family travel Via Colombo, 32 north of You can also opt to stay in Forte dei Marmi. Points resource and guide to the best hotels (39) 0584 787121 and resorts for kids of all ages. Viarregio, just south of Forte dei of interest within

www.californiaparkhotel.com 2011 May Marmi for a similar set up. Forte Rates: Doubles start at driving distance include dei Marmi is more upscale and pic- 280€ per night. a visit to the Carrara dream of 3 turesque, but you’ll find larger marble mines in the ® hotels and more value-oriented Villa Roma Imperiale mountains above the accommodations in . Via Corsica, 9 coast. Learn how this (39) 0584 78830 ITALY historic and very www.villaromaimperiale.com Kathleen A. McCabe important Italian Editor and Publisher Activities and Sightseeing Rates: Doubles start at industry has evolved 280€ per night. over the years. Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe Design: Leaird Designs In addition to the usual array www.dreamofitaly.com Day Trips www.leaird-designs.com of beach activities — bike Much-loved Cinque riding, tennis, golf, and Pisa Terre is easily accessible Dream of Italy, the subscription travel newsletter cover- See the October 2010 issue ing Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a horseback riding are readily for a day trip from year. Delivery by mail is $99 in the U.S. and Canada and Dream of Italy available in and around Forte of Forte dei Marmi; in fact, $109 abroad. An Internet subscription (downloadable PDFs) costs $79 per year. Subscriptions include online dei Marmi. Lucca using this Tuscan town access to over 80 back issues and regular e-mail updates. See the October 2009 issue as a hotel base is a Three ways to subscribe: There are also a number of of Dream of Italy wonderful way to avoid 1. Send a check to Dream of Italy, P.O. Box 5496, excursions in this area that the throngs of people Washington, DC, 20016 2. Call 877-OF-ITALY (toll free) or 202-297-3708 are worthwhile. Highlights Parco di Pinocchio competing for the 3. Subscribe online at www.dreamofitaly.com (Visa, include Pisa, a must-see Via S. Gennaro, 3 limited number of Mastercard and American Express accepted) attraction for school age kids Collodi Pescia rooms available within Editorial feedback is welcome. E-mail: [email protected] who will be thrilled to (39) 0572 429342 the Cinque Terre www.pinocchio.it Advertising opportunities are available. recognize Italy’s most iconic villages. E-mail: [email protected] Admission starts at 8€ tower. A 40-minute drive Copyright © 2011 Dream of Italy, Inc. All Rights down the coast, Pisa is best Carrara You can take the train Reserved. Reproduction in whole or part without per- combined with a visit to into Cinque Terre for mission is prohibited. Every effort is made to provide www..carrara.ms.it information that is accurate and reliable; however, Lucca, famous for its the day or take one of Dream of Italy cannot be responsible for errors that architecture and medieval the public boats that may occur. ISSN 1550-1353 www.dreamofitaly.com lives in Forte dei Marmi. Castiglioncello continued from page 1 As curious passers-by were invited to join the party, word spread throughout their tiny, coastal hamlet, and soon this innocuous meal had grown into a full-fledged bash.

club on the town’s largest bay, Baia del few hungry friends and a pot of fried found a number of local seafood Quercetano—lunching on fresh fish. As curious passers-by were dishes, including porpo bria’o (octopus marinated anchovies and tender fried invited to join the party, word spread cooked in red wine), cozze alla pescatora calamari, then relaxing in the sun on a throughout their tiny, coastal hamlet, (mussel stew), risotto ai tre scogli rented lounge chair. When the and soon this innocuous meal had (shellfish risotto), crespelle alla calettana summer’s heat became too intense, I grown into a full-fledged bash. The (seafood-filled ravioli), penne alla bua de could cool off in the gentle waves. On event was repeated the following ‘orvi (seafood pasta named after the the way back to the villa, I would year…and the year after that, nearby bay Buca dei Corvi), spiedini di pause for a late afternoon snack, which gradually evolving into what is today gamberoni (grilled shrimp kebabs), and always entailed at least three flavors of an enormous feast for tens of cacciucco alla livornese (Livorno-style gelato at nearby Gelateria Bocelli thousands of visitors. Held annually seafood stew). The main attraction, (owned by singer Andrea Bocelli’s on the second Sunday in June, the however, was the frittura, a mix of fried second cousin calamari and shrimp. Rossano). The frittura was cooked in a massive Nearly a decade later, frying pan that I found myself spanned 13 feet, held dreaming of 160 gallons of oil and May 2011 May Castiglioncello’s rocky fried 1000 portions an 4 coves and sandy hour. beaches, so I returned once again, seeking to As the festival All photos by Elisabeth Antoine Crawford Elisabeth All photos by relive some of those coincided with the early, carefree memories. This time I Festa del Pesce celebrates the year’s first heat wave, the beaches stayed at the pink Hotel Baia del Sorriso, beginning of the summer season with were packed with bronzed sun- overlooking the bay where I had years music, street markets, and—most worshippers sporting miniscule bikinis ago spent so many afternoons sunning importantly—plenty of seafood. and nearly naked toddlers learning to

www.dreamofitaly.com and bobbing in the waves. swim. Instead of joining the crowds, The scene is Caletta, a peaceful town I decided to take a walk along the My old haunt Bagni Italia was no nestled between the comfortably lungomare, the seaside promenade that longer serving a full menu (or perhaps trendy resort of Castiglioncello and the winds around tiny coves from Caletta things were not yet in full swing, more industrial . This north to Castiglioncello’s promontory, seeing as I had arrived just at the cusp charming slice of the Tuscan coast is Punta Righini. of high season), and I was lined with pine forests, turquoise bays, disappointed to find that Signor Bocelli and a rainbow of umbrella-dotted As I approached Baia di Portovecchio, I had sold his gelateria. (I’ve heard a beaches. Farther north, the winding was stunned to see a shipwrecked rumor that he is now a butcher in coastline ascends to a stretch of rugged Lebanese vessel looming over the tufa nearby Rosignano.) But I was consoled cliffs, while to the south lies the town rock beach. (The abandoned ship has by the fact that, being a decade older, I of Vada and its vast Spiaggia Bianca, since been demolished.) At Baia dei Tre could afford to treat myself to some where the sand is implausibly white. A Scogli, the promenade was briefly spectacular restaurant meals…and I short distance inland, the hill town interrupted by the pineta, a cliff-side had planned my trip to coincide with offers a sweeping park lined with pine trees and home to the annual Festa del Pesce. view of the verdant countryside and a children’s playground, a movie endless shores. theater, and tennis courts. At the north The “Festival of Fish” began 40 years end of the park, I climbed down a set ago as a casual get-together between a On the menu at the Festa del Pesce, I of stairs to Baia di Castiglioncello, Including its islands, Tuscany arriving just in time to performances, including watch the embarkment ones by Pro Danza Italia. of a festival-sponsored sailing regatta. Still craving some beach time, I headed back to The final stretch of the my hotel for a swim. lungomare circled While Hotel Baia del halfway around the Sorriso does not have an Punta Righini. Along actual beach, they do the way, I passed La provide a concrete Baracchina where I had landing with a ladder for dined the night before. Located on a When the paved promenade ended, I easy access into the crystal clear water. stretch of rocks jutting out into the sea, continued exploring further—walking As I leisurely swam from one end of the restaurant gave the appearance of a over and between boulders, following Baia del Quercetano to the other, I felt casual beach shack. In the evening, a makeshift path to its ultimate end at that sense of sun-drenched elation however, the interior was enhanced by a privately owned beach. When I could return. Although I will always miss my elegant yellow and white linens and go no further, I backtracked through rooftop tower and private beach at the romantic glow of candlelight. the town, stopping to admire two of Villa Santa Lucia, I discovered that Floor-to-ceiling windows encircled the Castiglioncello’s landmarks: the Torre bliss could still be found in dining area and let in a refreshing Medicea, built by the Medici family Castiglioncello. breeze. While tucking into a deliciously during the 16th century as a guard grilled sea bass, I had been against the raids of Saracen pirates, —Elisabeth Antoine Crawford May 2011 May mesmerized by the 180-degree view and the Castello Pasquini, built centuries A former modern dancer and Pilates instructor, spanning the electric pink-and-blue later by art critic Diego Martelli to Elisabeth Antoine Crawford is the author of 5 horizon and the darkening coastline house his entourage of writers, poets, Flavors of Friuli: A Culinary Journey through punctuated by gleaming specks of and Impressionist painters. In recent Northeastern Italy. She lives in San Francisco light. years, the castle has provided a stage and blogs about her travels at www.FlavorsofFriuli-blog.com for numerous dance and theater

How to Get There This pink-and-white, cliff-hugging Where to Eat What to See hotel has comfortable rooms, each www.dreamofitaly.com The closest airport is Pisa’s with private balcony overlooking La Baracchina Festa del Pesce Aeroporto Galileo Galilei. Baia del Quercetano. Lungomare Punta Righini www.lungomarecastiglioncello.it By train, Castiglioncello is (39) 0586 752003 Held on the second Sunday in June. 45 minutes from Pisa, two hours www.labaracchina.net Villa Santa Lucia Castello Pasquini from Florence, and four hours from Via Aurelia, 1109 Astragalo www.castellopasquini.it Rome. If you arrive by car, the town www.villasantalucia.net Via del Quercetano, 1/C Behind the castle, a white tent straddles via Aurelia on the Genoa- (845) 562-2858 (39) 0586 759065 provides the stage for numerous Rome highway. Rates: The main house rents for www.astragalo.it summertime dance and theater $1600 to 1800 per week; in addition, Closed Monday performances. Where to Stay there are three less expensive accommodations on the property. Hotel Baia del Sorriso Via Aurelia, 1023 The villa is located less than two (39) 0586 752570 miles north of Castiglioncello and www.castiglioncelloturismo.com provides access to two private Rates: Doubles range from 110 to beaches. 140€ per night, with breakfast. 1 € = $1.41 at press time has over 370 miles of coastline. Elba continued from page 1

that will take your breath away. On a 4. Medicinal Mud di Campo, the aquarium boasts a clear day, look for the isle of Corsica on collection of 150 species of fish and the western horizon. Nestled in a vast eucalyptus wood just crustaceans. The main draw is a walk- outside busy , Terme San around, octagonal shark tank, below 2. Tale of Two Villas Giovanni is an oasis of relaxation, which lies a display of shark jaws, specializing in mud treatments and swordfish swords, and a stuffed An exiled Napoleon called Elba home thermal baths. The rich mineral blowfish. In another tank, moray eels for a brief ten months before escaping composition of the island provides a play hide-and-seek in giant urns. back to France. His unique therapy said to two villas are open cure many ailments, 7. Mine for Iron to the public: Villa dei including rheumatoid Mulini, perched arthritis, eczema, and The island is famous for being one of between Forte Stella bronchitis. Even if you the world’s richest sources of and Forte Falcone on don’t suffer from such minerals—particularly iron—and Portoferraio’s hilly maladies, the spa is a several towns in eastern Elba offer promontory, and great place to pamper activities for the gem enthusiast. In Villa di San Martino, Antoine Crawford Elisabeth All photos by yourself with an algae , ex-miner Emilio his slightly larger summer facial mask or underwater Giacomelli runs La Piccola Miniera, a home in the nearby massage. Disneyland-style train ride through mountains. Faded trompe underground caverns that offer a l’oeil rooms offer a glimpse 5. Pebble Beach glimpse into the authentic mining into the ruler’s life, his ego experience. May 2011 May D (the letter “N” appears ’s long 6 everywhere), and his crescent of white sand is For a less staged tour, visit the Parco solitude. perhaps the island’s best beach, Minerario. Small groups hike to nearby but it can be overrun with quarries to explore and learn about If you prefer more solitude hordes of vacationers during local minerals. If your passion for yourself, escape the tour-bus crowds the summer months. While access to gemstones is still not sated, there are and explore the ruins of the the beach is free, it notable rock and indomitable Fortezze Medicee, just steps will cost to rent an mineral collections in from Villa dei Mulini. Built by Cosimo I umbrella and lounge the towns ,

www.dreamofitaly.com de’ Medici in the 16th century, these chair. Pebble beaches Rio nell’Elba, Porto bastions offer a bird’s-eye view of the such as Le Ghiaie (in Azzurro and . harbor below. Portoferraio), Cavo and are often 8. Dance the Night 3. Fish Food d less crowded, and Away there is no need to Cacciucco, the fish soup made famous in reserve a spot. Better still, rent a boat Situated on Elba’s southeastern the Tuscan , is a or kayak to seek out a secluded cove of peninsula, Capoliveri could easily be must for dinner. Some restaurants will your own—the coastline is dotted with mistaken for any hill town in Tuscany, require the dish to be pre-ordered when hidden slivers of paradise. save for the clear view of the sea on making reservations so that they can both sides. Of Elba’s many sedate hill stock up on the requisite five types of 6. Underwater World towns, Capoliveri offers the most seafood (one for each “c” in its name). action. During the daytime, browse the Trattoria La Barca, in the old town of Though not on the world-class scale of numerous shops for jewelry made Portoferraio and one of the island’s best such aquariums as Monterey Bay and from the island’s gems and minerals; seafood restaurants, offers cacciucco the Great Barrier Reef, the Acquario then, after sundown, visit one of the daily on their regular menu. Bring a dell’Elba is Italy’s second largest (Genoa town’s popular nightclubs for some dining companion, or at least a hearty is number one). Housed in a former disco fun. appetite, for the portions are plentiful. discotheque in the hills outside Marina There are seven islands in the . the island.To tryawidevarietyof found innearlyeverypastryshopon Aleatico, then soakedinthelocaldessertwine pine nuts,hazelnuts,andcandiedfruit, or “drunken cake.”Madewithraisins, the mostfamousbeing Sample someofElba’stypicalpastries, 9. DrunkenCake and thedistanthorizon. blues overlookingterracottarooftops where youcanenjoyjazz,rock, or spacious, terraced many outdoormusicaleventsinthe In thesummertime,Capoliverihosts www.atl.livorno.it more information,visit island iseasyandconvenient.For towns onElba,sogettingaroundthe Bus serviceconnectsallthemajor www.toremar.it andwww.moby.it For moreinformation,visit town of that runservicetoElbafromthe 275 to1280€perweek. 170€ pernight. Apartments rent for Rates: www.hotel-elba.it (39) 0565976224 Marina diCampo Via perPortoferraio, 319 Hotel Elba/ResidencedeiFiori Where toStay Toremar Around Getting Thereand Doubles rangefrom90to this crumbly confectioncanbe and dD Moby on themainland. are ferrylines Piazza Matteotti, schiaccia briaca, Admission is3€. and August) Closed Tuesday (exceptJuly (39) 0565915846 Portoferraio Villa deiMulini A round-tripticketcosts17€. Open daily April throughOctober. (39) 0565901020 Marciana Cabinovia delMonteCapanne What toSee (39) 0565976057 Marina diCampo Via Roma Pasticceria LambardiGiorgio Closed inwinter. (39) 056599251 Piazza dellaVittoria, 1 Ristorante Rendez-Vous Closed everySundayinwinter. (39) 0565918036 Portoferraio Via F.D. Guerrazzi,60/62 Trattoria LaBarca Where toEat di Campo. Lambardi Giorgio Napoleone, elbana, torta corona,sbrisolana Elban specialties,including largest marinesanctuaryinEurope, Parco NazionaleArcipelagoToscano, the Tuscan Archipelago. As partofthe gemstones becamethesevenislandsof dropped hernecklace,andthose waves oftheTyrrhenian Sea,she Venus emerged from the Legend saysthatwhen 10. IslandGems and visit sospiri di Pasticceria in Marina from 35€;facials40€. Thermal bathsfrom10€;massages closed Sunday. Open April throughNovember; www.termelbane.com (39) 0565914680 Portoferraio Località SanGiovanni Terme SanGiovanni Admission is3€. mid-June throughmid-September) Closed Wednesday (exceptfrom (39) 0565944024 Portoferraio Via F.D. Guerrazzi Fortezze Medicee villas is5€. Admission is3€oraticketforboth August). Closed Monday(exceptinJulyand (39) 0565914688 Portoferraio Via SanMartino Villa diSanMartino the into theturquoise sea. and whitecliffs plungedramatically southernmost point, particularly stunning—atits —Elisabeth AntoineCrawford 12€. excursion is5€;train Museum admissionis2.50€;guided Open daily April throughOctober. www.parcominelba.it (39) 0565962088 Rio Marina Palazzo delBurò,viaMagenta26 Parco Minerario tasting oflocalproducts. Etruscan Museumpluscoffee and includes admissiontoon-site Train rideis7€;a9€ticketalso November. Open dailyMarchthrough www.lapiccolaminiera.it (39) 056595350 Porto Azzurro Località Pianetto La PiccolaMiniera Admission is7€. November. Open dailyMarchthrough www.acquarioelba.com (39) 0565977885 Marina diCampo Via Segagnana Acquario dell’Elba nearby mainland. other islandsfrom the from Elba,ferriesrun tothe island directly accessible prison site—istheonly While habitat. and aremarkable wildlife coastlines, pristinewaters, these islandsenjoyunspoiled Cala Rossa, —a former red is

www.dreamofitaly.com May 2011 7 Il Pellicano: The Love Resort

t was love at first sight. As we the glitterati of Europe divine view of tiny I turned down a steep narrow road made themselves at islands and sleek boats toward the sea, my gaze swept home at the posh but skimming across the from majestic cliffs to terracotta roofs to unpretentious resort. waves. flower-strewn terraces to sun-dazzled The Grahams didn’t water. Il Pellicano took my breath away. advertise; word-of- Many guests spend the mouth kept the two day lounging around “I want you to bring me here every dozen rooms full. (By the the elegant pool, but I head year for the rest of my life,” I said to way, their original motto straight to the sea, accessible my husband Bob. That was 1990 and “expensive but worth it” still by a steep staircase or a we have indeed returned annually. holds true.) gleaming elevator carved How could we not? No place on earth into the cliff. There, on a may be more romantic. When we discovered Il series of terraces, solicitous Pellicano in 1990, it had shed attendants cater to Love is in the DNA of this renowned its jet-set glitz and evolved sunbathers’ every whim. Relais & Chateaux resort. In the 1960s into a sleepy, rustic inn However, I spend every Michael Graham, a dashing British popular as a weekend retreat for possible minute in the crystal-clear pilot and war hero, stole the heart of Romans and a stopover for tourists water, so intensely turquoise that the beautiful American heiress Patsy driving along the coast. Over the years Italians call it azzurro-azzurro (blue- Danzel — from no less a rival than we’ve witnessed firsthand its stunning blue). Early morning swims are my May 2011 May movie icon Clark Gable. After transformation into a world-class favorite. Except for a few fishing boats, 8 marrying, they travelled destination under the astute I feel that I have the entire Tyrrhenian through Europe to revel “in management of its second owner, the sea to myself. the intensity of their love” cosmopolitan and ever- (as one biography puts it). gracious Roberto Sciò. Il Pellicano offers every possible amenity but nature provides its most A wild, uninhabited hillside of The site’s natural beauty has magical moments. The first time that I Monte Argentario on the remained undiminished, but saw a full moon rise above the dining westernmost tip of Tuscany inspired every other part of Il Pellicano has terrace, I gasped. Within minutes a

www.dreamofitaly.com the Grahams to been updated, renovated river of moonlight turned the sea to develop a unique and polished to a 5-star silver. A waiter told me this is why the hideaway for lovers. sheen. The restaurant has peninsula is called Argentario (from They named it “Il progressed from standard argento for silver). If his story isn’t true, Pellicano” in honor of to superb, winning its first it should be. The sight is magical. So is Pelican Point, where Michelin star several years the atmosphere. they’d met. Rather ago and a second star, than a standard hotel, under its wizardly chef “I don’t believe you’re married,” the Grahams created a Antonio Guida, last year. Gianni, the maitre’d, used to tease us. sprawling compound The Details “You laugh too much. You must be with a main building, In addition to the more lovers.” Even after so many years, stone cottages, gardens Il Pellicano formal main restaurant, an that’s exactly how we feel at Il of herbs and wild Località Sbarcatello outdoor terrace offers a Pellicano. Come with someone you rosemary, beds of Porto Ercole sensational luncheon cherish, and you’ll feel the same. bright flowers, and (39) 0564 858111 buffet of seafood and groves of olive trees www.pellicanohotel.com pasta. We have spent —Dianne Hales and cypress. Rates: Start at 420€ per night. hours of perfect Dianne Hales, the author of the book La Bella Lingua, Add 95€ per person for half contentment savoring, not was recently named Cavaliere dell’ Ordine della Stella Charlie Chaplin, board. just the food and della Solidarietà Italiana (Knight of the Order of the Anthony Quinn and outstanding wines, but the Star of Italian Solidarity) by the president of Italy. Porto Ercole is famous for its forts.