Forte Dei Marmi. Points Resource and Guide to the Best Hotels (39) 0584 787121 and Resorts for Kids of All Ages
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INSIDE: A Beach for Families 2 Fish Festival 4 Romantic Il Pellicano 8 Elisabeth Antoine Crawford Elisabeth Antoine Crawford Festa del Pesce SPECIAL REPORT: THE COAST OF TUSCANY 10 Great Things to Do on the dream of Island of Elba ® tunning beaches and glowing sunsets attract countless vacationing Italians to the S island of Elba, located off the coast of southern Tuscany. While July and August are the busiest months— and perhaps the ones to avoid—there Volume 10, Issue 4 www.dreamofitaly.com May 2011 are plenty of spots to escape the ITALY crowds (and heat) during the less sweltering months of May and June. Rediscovering Paradise in In fact, all the major sights are open from April to October, so consider an CASTIGLIONCELLO off-season trip for maximum tranquility. Feel free to spend your vacation in exile, enjoying il dolce far hen asked to recall my most to a sandy cove below. Like an niente—but if you begin to yearn for a Wperfect memory of absolute unwanted stepchild banished to a bit more exploration, here are ten bliss, I immediately fairytale tower, I was given terrific things for you to discover. picture myself floating on the closet-sized room on the my back in the tranquil sea roof. Although it had no 1. Mountain High off Baia Santa Lucia, the sun bathroom (I had to go down beating down on my face the outside stairway to get From the hill town of Marciana, take a and limbs, the buoyant into the main house), my cabinovia to the 3343-foot summit of water sending my thoughts roof-tower room was truly Monte Capanne. Any fear of heights drifting into oblivion. paradise. will be seriously Several years prior, I had challenged during spent two months as a The door opened directly the 20-minute ride student at the dance festival Pro Danza onto the roof, an open terrace with over steep granite Italia, and I had now returned to panoramic views of the sea. I cliffs. The yellow, Castiglioncello—located on the Tuscan remember watching sunsets fill the sky open-air baskets coast just south of Livorno—to teach a with shades of fuchsia, periwinkle, and are barely large Pilates workshop at the same festival. crimson, and I often awoke during the enough for two night just to see the moonlight sparkle people and sway All the teachers were given lodging at over the horizon. precariously in the Villa Santa Lucia, a spacious home breeze. Once at the perched high on a cliff, with thatched- During my free afternoons, I would summit landing, climb the steps to roof gazebos spilling down the hillside spend hours at Bagni Italia—a beach the rocky peak for a panoramic view continued on page 4 continued on page 6 All of Italy’s beaches are packed in August. Forte dei Marmi: Family-Frien day at the beach is Upscale shopping is plentiful (the you’ll be hooked! guaranteed fun for kids weekly open-air market is Tip: During summer months these clubs and many families come to Wednesday). There are numerous A are very busy. Ask your hotel to make a me asking for ways to places to eat gelato. Plus you will find reservation for you well ahead of time. include a bit of the Italian plenty of places for little kids to safely coast in their Italian vacation run around. There’s a wonderful itineraries. Beach time in Italy provides waterfront Easy Access a terrific break from sightseeing and promenade that is touring. paved and flat — Another benefit of Forte dei perfect for all- Marmi is the easy-to-access Tuscany is our most requested family bike rides, location. Located about 60 destination on Ciao Bambino and it has strollers and miles west of Florence, you many of Italy’s highlights for families general can easily add a few nights at including Siena, San Gimignano and meandering. the beach to the typical Florence. My favorite beach resort in flickr.com yahya, Tuscany countryside itinerary. this region is Forte dei Marmi in the Family-Friendly Beach province of Lucca. You can also create a day trip to Forte So many of Italy’s iconic coastlines are dei Marmi from Florence and anything Here’s why I like it so much. rocky cliffs. While this is good for jaw- in that immediate area — it will take dropping photos, it’s not ideal for about 1.5 hours to drive there (each May 2011 May Vacation with Italians children. The beach in Forte dei Marmi way), although, an overnight stay is 2 is flat, sandy, with little surf — perfect recommended to fully appreciate the You don’t feel like you’re giving up for wading and playing in the water. entertaining resort vibe. your authentic Italian experience here. Real Italians — not just tourists — Forte dei Marmi’s beach is lined with Where to Stay with Kids spend their holidays in Forte dei private beach clubs where you pay a Marmi. When I toured the Maremma daily fee for chairs, services, and a You’ll pay a premium to be on the (another coastal area clean bathroom. It’s waterfront. We like California Park Hotel of Tuscany) a few hotel-like without located just a few blocks from the www.dreamofitaly.com years ago I was the room and beach; family-owned, the atmosphere disappointed to find indoor amenities. is warm, friendly, and they have a that many of the huge grassy garden popular beach towns These beach for kids. Rooms are were inundated clubs are simple but with people from absolutely ideal comfortable. Their everywhere in with kids! You Paolo Alfieri, flickr.com Alfieri, Paolo Europe ... but Italy. can escape the sun, have a sand-free lunch and The atmosphere in Forte dei Marmi is relax on a comfortable chair. I wish all about relaxation versus sightseeing, we had more of this concept on our making it a typical beach vacation type beaches in the U.S. Some clubs like of place. You have to go during the Bagno Annetta offer a swimming summer season to appreciate this in pool and kids’ activities. Other flickr.com doyoukekko, full. Days are spent on the beach, favorite clubs for families are Bagno afternoons loitering through the town Costanza, Bagno Peppe Ponete and Bagno and evenings are spent eating (of Piero. A day at the beach, including course!). food and access fees, runs about 75 to 150€ per family. Once you try it — flickr.com doyoukekko, Opera star Andrea Bocelli dly Beach Vacation suite category is perfect for families. walls; a favorite family activity in run from Forte dei Tuscany is bike riding or strolling on Marmi to Cinque Another family-friendly option is Villa top of these walls. Terre over the Roma Imperiale. This hotel has a home- summer months. flickr.com Angelo Salvioni, Michele like feel with a gorgeous garden and Another great day trip is to Pinocchio grounds. This is one of the few hotels Park in Collodi. Families can re-live this Finally, another fantastic excursion is to with dedicated kids-focused treats classic fable through take a road trip up the coast including free ice cream and soda, sculptures and exhibits. The through the much-loved and children’s bike rentals and a special drive from Collodi back to photographed seaside towns welcome gift. Forte dei Marmi takes an of Santa Margherita Ligure hour. and Portofino, 1.5 hours each Tip: Italian families flock to Forte way (without stops). dei Marmi in late July and August The division and you’ll find that available hotel between —Amie O’Shaughnessy rooms are virtually impossible to The Details Tuscany and find. Lucca is just a 30-minute Amie O’Shaughnessy is the Where to Stay Liguria drive from Forte dei Marmi and editor of Ciao Bambino begins just (www.ciaobambino.com), an works as a homebase in a pinch. California Park Hotel Paolo Alfieri, flickr.com Alfieri, Paolo award-winning family travel Via Colombo, 32 north of You can also opt to stay in Forte dei Marmi. Points resource and guide to the best hotels (39) 0584 787121 and resorts for kids of all ages. Viarregio, just south of Forte dei of interest within www.californiaparkhotel.com 2011 May Marmi for a similar set up. Forte Rates: Doubles start at driving distance include dei Marmi is more upscale and pic- 280€ per night. a visit to the Carrara dream of 3 turesque, but you’ll find larger marble mines in the ® hotels and more value-oriented Villa Roma Imperiale mountains above the accommodations in Viareggio. Via Corsica, 9 coast. Learn how this (39) 0584 78830 ITALY historic and very www.villaromaimperiale.com Kathleen A. McCabe important Italian Editor and Publisher Activities and Sightseeing Rates: Doubles start at industry has evolved 280€ per night. over the years. Copy Editor: Stephen J. McCabe Design: Leaird Designs In addition to the usual array www.dreamofitaly.com Day Trips www.leaird-designs.com of beach activities — bike Much-loved Cinque riding, tennis, golf, and Pisa Terre is easily accessible Dream of Italy, the subscription travel newsletter cover- See the October 2010 issue ing Italian travel and culture, is published 10 times a horseback riding are readily for a day trip from year. Delivery by mail is $99 in the U.S. and Canada and Dream of Italy available in and around Forte of Forte dei Marmi; in fact, $109 abroad. An Internet subscription (downloadable PDFs) costs $79 per year. Subscriptions include online dei Marmi. Lucca using this Tuscan town access to over 80 back issues and regular e-mail updates.