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Seduced by SRI LANKA Ancient UNESCO Cities CHALABALA / ISTOCK HADYNYAH / ISTOCK GEORGE MUCALOV Seduced by SRI LANKA Ancient UNESCO cities. Local Ayurvedic treatments. Epic train rides. Authentic Sri Lanka appeals to curious travellers – and visitors with big hearts are needed. JANICE AND GEORGE MUCALOV CARLOS AMARILLO / SHUTTERSTOCK 42 CRUISE AND TRAVEL LIFESTYLES Tea plantation in the highlands of Sri Lanka CRUISE AND TRAVEL LIFESTYLES 43 | SRI LANKA however, and British travellers (which make up the second largest market of tourists) are no longer warned against travelling to Sri Lanka. To help woo tourists back, Sri Lanka is now offer- ing free visas until February 1, 2020 to Canadians and citizens from nearly 50 other countries. We find the people to be warm, friendly and proud of their country – everyone we meet asks: “How do you like Sri Lanka?” We’re also pleas- antly surprised Sri Lanka is so litter- free. Most hotels have embraced a green ethos. In our rooms, we find flasks of filtered water and glasses instead of plastic bottles. After shaking off jet lag in STEFAN TOMIC / ISTOCK Colombo, our first destination is Gleefully hanging out the open train door, gripping the grab bars tightly, Anuradhapura. A treasure trove of 2,000-year-old temples, the ancient we watch Sri Lanka’s emerald tea plantations fly by. We have “first-class” seats. city is one of five UNESCO World But peering out glass windows in an air-conditioned carriage can’t match Heritage Sites in the country’s the thrill of fresh mountain air whooshing in through the open doorway. “Cultural Triangle.” Our base is the lovely Ulagalla. Some travellers sit on the floor, dangling their legs out, as we clackety-clack Set among rice paddies and lush our way through the mist-streaked hills ribboned with rows of tea plants. jungle, the eco-friendly resort features 26 thatch-roof chalets built EARLIER IN THE MORNING, we’d from local biodegradable materials boarded the blue train in Kandy for (fire-resistant durra or rice-straw was the seven-hour journey – considered used in the walls and ceilings). one of the world’s most beautiful To preserve the environment, not a train rides – to the mountain village single tree was cut down, and over of Ella. After three days of hiking and 1,000 more trees have been planted touring tea plantations in Ella, we’ll on the property. An onsite solar farm meet our driver again to continue our also produces half the hotel’s energy. circle tour of Sri Lanka. There’s no stinting on luxury though This teardrop of an island is – each chalet has its own pool. This page: proving to be one of the most A highlight is bicycling one Riding the scenic fascinating countries we’ve visited. sunset in Anuradhapura through blue train from Kandy to Ella. Not overwhelmed by tourists, it’s fields of monastery ruins. We end up A tea picker from one of the few places left in the world at the enormous Ruwanwelisaya one of the tea that offers a wealth of authentic GEORGE MUCALOV stupa, where Buddhist worshippers plantations shows experiences, and it’s so diverse that Since the end of its civil war in white saris lay lotus flower offer- off her harvest. it ticks off most items on a traveller’s ten years ago, Sri Lanka – named ings. Incense wafts through the hot Facing page: wish list. A bustling capital city the best country in the world to air and the lyrical sound of chanting The impressive Lion Rock. (Colombo) with museums and color- visit in 2019 by Lonely Planet – has monks is hypnotic. It’s so peaceful, Buddhist monks ful markets? Check. Sacred Buddhist welcomed tourists with open arms. we hesitate to leave. But candlelight walk towards the temples, cave paintings and ancient Tragically, that ten-year peace dining back at Ulagalla is too good to Ruwanwelisaya stupa UNESCO-listed monuments? Indeed. was jolted by a series of bombings miss. Salad greens come from its at Anuradhapura. Palm-lined beaches? Oh yes – and in Colombo over Easter, and dozens organic garden and the delicately- Monkeys climb the giant Buddha at then there are the epic train rides and of suspects were arrested. Travel spiced Sri Lankan curries are a treat Anuradhapura. colonial hill towns like Ella. advisories have since been lifted, for the taste buds. 44 CRUISE AND TRAVEL LIFESTYLES Climbing Sigirya – the Lion Rock: Some 2,500 years ago, King Kasyapa built a “Sky Palace” on top of this 200-metre rock. After passing through two giant sculpted lion’s paws half way up, you must climb a narrow metal staircase clinging to the vertical rock face. But make it to the summit, and you’re rewarded with 360 degree views of the palace’s land- scaped gardens below and forests beyond stretching as far as the eye can see. ANASTASIA TURSHINA / ISTOCK MICHEL ARNAULT / SHUTTERSTOCK FRANKVANDENBERGH / ISTOCK CRUISE AND TRAVEL LIFESTYLES 45 PIDJOE / ISTOCK Later, our driver Athula suggests Without Athula’s insider knowledge, we try an Ayurvedic treatment at a local we would never have found this spa. “It’s the best in Sri Lanka – better authentic Ayurvedic spa on our own. than any 5-star hotel, and cheaper Next up? The former royal hill too!” he enthusiastically cajoles. capital of Kandy, another UNESCO Most visitors, like us, see the World Heritage Site. The drawing card country independently with a licensed is the Temple of the Tooth. Built in driver guide. He chauffeurs you the late 16th century, the temple is around on your trip (typically two believed to hold the sacred relic of weeks) in a private car. Hotels usually the Buddha’s left tooth. It’s humbling offer free driver accommodation. to be one with the throngs of wor- Affordable even for travellers on a shippers praying within the temple’s budget, it’s a win-win for everyone. intricately crafted interiors. You can’t Tourist jobs are given to knowledge- actually see the tooth though – it’s able locals eager to show off their enshrined in a casket guarded by two GEORGE MUCALOV country. And visitors are protected giant elephant tusks. from the risk of rental car accidents Kandy is where we temporarily Temple Guardian at In the Cultural Triangle, we also on unfamiliar roads. We rely on say goodbye to our driver so we can the Temple of the climb Sigirya – the Lion Rock. Some Athula for other things too – where experience our heads-out-the-window Tooth which houses a tooth of the 2,500 years ago, King Kasyapa built the “western” loos are, which hill train ride to the relaxed town of Ella. Buddha, Sri Lanka’s a “Sky Palace” on top of this 200- climb up to a temple is in the shade, There we hike mountain trails to most important metre rock pinnacle. After passing where to buy wine for sipping on our glorious viewpoints and sip our way Buddhist relic. through two giant sculpted lion’s hotel balcony… through gallons of tea. Athula then Dellawella Beach near Galle paws half way up, you must climb a Athula’s spa recommendation picks us up again for our onward narrow metal staircase clinging to turns out to be excellent. The spa is journey to Galle on the southwest the vertical rock face. But make it to basic, with wooden huts in a garden coast. Built by the Dutch in 1663, the the summit, and you’re rewarded planted with medicinal trees. But fortified city is also a UNESCO World with 360 degree views of the palace’s the powerful massages get the kinks Heritage Site. landscaped gardens below and for- out. And the “steam room” – a shack Our rest stop here is Why House, ests beyond stretching as far as the with herbs and mango branches an English villa-style estate surrounded eye can see. on the floor – is fun and novel. by tropical gardens. When the heat 46 CRUISE AND TRAVEL LIFESTYLES SRI LANKA | wanes, we rouse ourselves from the all-too-inviting pool and hail a tuk-tuk to Galle to stroll its rambling lanes, taking in the restored boutique hotels, art galleries, shops and stylish cafés. Its European vibe is such a contrast from the Buddhist cultural sights we’ve seen so far! Come sunset, we walk atop the thick ramparts surrounding the seaside city. We end our trip at the Fortress Resort & Spa, which sits smack against a wave-washed beach. After two weeks of touring, we’re ready to do nothing but read in the hotel’s hang- PIDJOE / ISTOCK ing bubble loungers on the lawn, Fortress Resort & Spa PHOTO COURTESY FORTRESS RESORT & SPA swim in its infinity pool and stroll the gold-sand beach that stretches for TRAVEL TO SRI LANKA this miles to the west. We’d hoped to winter and you’ll be helping see Sri Lanka’s iconic stilt fishermen small businesses – chauffeur/ but sadly, stilt fishing is a dying art guides, restaurants, dive shops today, and their wooden perches – recover their livelihoods at the water’s edge are empty. Some- (and you’ll probably get times though, a fisherman will pose great hotel discounts too). After the bombings, tourist for photos for a fee. bookings were slashed and If we had more time, we’d visit are just now trickling back. one of Sri Lanka’s 15 national parks. • The best time to visit the west Yala National Park is a sanctuary for Ulagalla villa and south coasts and central some 50+ protected leopards and PHOTO COURTESY ULAGALLA Sri Lanka (covered here) is the Minneriya National Park is the place cool dry season from December to go to see 200 wild Asian elephants to March.
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