Miss Bremer Goes to Minnesota Fredrika Bremer

Swedish American Genealogist

Volume 35 | Number 1 Article 2

3-1-2015 Miss Bremer goes to Minnesota Fredrika Bremer

Mary Howitt

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Recommended Citation Bremer, Fredrika and Howitt, Mary (2015) "Miss Bremer goes to Minnesota," Swedish American Genealogist: Vol. 35 : No. 1 , Article 2. Available at: https://digitalcommons.augustana.edu/swensonsag/vol35/iss1/2

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The famous Swedish writer travels in America 1849-1851. Part 3.

BY FREDRIKA BREMER

TRANSLATED BY MARY HOWITT IN 1853

[Editor's note: For more on Fred- ley,1 who, with his wife and child, the blessed. The Mississippi was here rika Bremer, see SAG 2014/1 and were returning home from Washing- in its youth, in its state of innocence 2014/3. The following are excerpts ton. as yet. It has not as yet advanced very from her text,] Was this, then, indeed, the Missis- far from its fountains; no crowd of sippi, that wild giant of nature, which steamboats muddy its waters. The On the Mississippi, October 15th. I had imagined would be so powerful, Menomonie and one other, a still After a night at the "American- so divine, so terrible? Here its waters smaller boat, are the only ones which House" in Galena, I continued my were clear, of a fresh, light-green ascend the river above Galena; no travels on the steamboat Menomonie. color, and within their beautiful cities cast into it their pollution; pure Toward sunset on the most lovely frame of distant violet-blue moun- rivers only flow into its waters, and and glorious evening, we came out tains, they lay like a heavenly mir- aborigines and primeval forests still of the narrow little winding Five Ri- ror, bearing on their bosom verdant, surround it. ver, and entered the grand Missis- vine-covered islands, like islands of Afterward, far below and toward sippi, which flowed broad and clear as a mirror between hills which ex- tended into the distance, and now looked blue beneath the mild, clear blue heavens, in which the new moon and the evening star ascended, be- coming brighter as the sun sank lower behind the hills. The pure misty veil of the Indian summer was thrown over the landscape; one might have believed that it was the earth's smoke of sacrifice which arose in the evening toward the gentle heavens. Not a breath of air moved, everything was silent and still in that grand spectacle; it was indescribably beautiful. Just then a shot was fired; a smoke issued from one of the small green islands, and flocks of ducks and wild geese flew up round about, escaping from the concealed sports- man, who I hope this evening retur- ned without game. All was again silent and still, and the Menomonie advanced with a quiet, steady course up the glorious river. I stood on the upper deck with the captain, Mr. Smith, and the repre- sentative from Minnesota, Mr. Sib- David Rumsey Map Collection. Part of an 1861 Mississippi River map.

Swedish American Genealogist 2015:1 the world's sea, where the Mississippi representing fortifications, towers, comes into the life of the states and half-demolished walls, as of ancient, becomes a statesman, he has his magnificent strongholds and castles. twelve hundred steamers, and I know The castle ruins of the Rhine are not how many thousand sailing- small things in comparison with boats, gives himself up to cities and these gigantic remains of primeval the population of cities, and is mar- ages; when men were not, but the ried to the Missouri: then it is quite Titans of primeval nature, Mega- different; then is it all over with the theriums, Mastodons, and Ichthyo- beauty and innocence of the Missis- A typical 1850s steamboat. saurians rose up from the waters, and sippi. A newly-erected log house stood at wandered alone over the earth. the foot of the hill, about fifty paces It was difficult to persuade one's Mississippi, October 16th. from the river; we went into the self that many of these bold pyramids Cold and chilly; but those stately house, and were met by a handsome and broken temple facades had not hills, which rise higher and higher on young wife, with a nice little plump really been the work of human hands, each side the river, covered with lad, a baby, in her arms; her husband so symmetrical, so architectural were forests of oak now brilliant in their was out in the forest. They had been these colossal erections. I saw in two golden-brown array beneath the au- at the place merely a few months, but places human dwellings, built upon tumnal heaven, and those prairies were satisfied, and hopeful of doing a height; they looked like birds' nests with their infinite stretches of view, well there. Two fat cows with bells upon a lofty roof; but I was glad to afford a spectacle forever changing were grazing in the meadow, without see them, because they predicted that and forever beautiful. And then all any tether. Everything within the this magnificent region will soon is so young, so new, all as yet virgin house was neat and in order, and have inhabitants, and this temple of soil! Here and there, at the foot of the indicated a degree of comfort. I saw nature worshipers in thankful and hills, on the banks of the river, has some books on a shelf; these were the intelligent human hearts. The coun- the settler built his little log house, Bible, prayer-books, and American try on the other side of these pre- plowed up a little field in which he reading-books, containing selections cipitous crags is highland, glorious has now just reaped his maize. The from English and American litera- country, bordering the prairie land - air is gray, but altogether calm. We ture, both verse and prose. The young land for many millions of human proceed very leisurely, because the wife talked sensibly and calmly about beings! Americans will build upon water is low at this time of the year, their life and condition as settlers in these hills beautiful, hospitable and has many shallows; at times it is the West. When we left the house, and homes, and will here labor, pray, love, narrow, and then again it is of great I saw her standing in the doorway and enjoy. width, dotted over with many islands, with her beautiful child in her arms, Last evening, just at sunset, I saw both large and small. These islands she presented a picture in the soft the first trace of the Indians in an are full of wild vines, which have glow of the Western heaven, a lovely Indian grave. It was a chest of bark thrown themselves in festoons a- picture of the new life of the West. laid upon a couple of planks sup- mong the trees, now for the most part A glorious morning, as warm as ported by four posts, standing under- leafless, though the wild vines are yet summer! It rained in the night, but neath a tree golden with autumnal green. cleared up in the morning; those tints. It is thus that the Indians dis- We are sailing between Wisconsin dense, dark masses of cloud were pose of their dead, till the flesh is on the right and Iowa on the left. We penetrated, rent asunder by the dried off the bones, when these are have just passed the mouth of the flashing sunbeams; and bold, abrupt interred either in the earth or in Wisconsin River. The Wisconsin flows shadows, and heavenly lights played caves, with funeral rites, dances, and into the Mississippi between shores among the yet bolder, craggy, and songs. overgrown with wood, and presents more picturesque hills. Soon after we saw Indian huts on a beautiful idyllian scene. The further we advanced, the the banks of the river. They are called We shall tomorrow enter upon a more strangely and fantastically by themselves "tepees" (dwellings), wilder region and among the Indians; were the cliffs on the shore splintered and by the English "lodges"; they if the weather is only not too cold! and riven, representing the most resemble a tent in form, and are Evening. It seems as if it would astonishing imagery. Half way up, covered with buffalo hides, which are clear up; the sun has set and the probably four or five hundred feet wrapped round long stakes, planted moon risen, and the moon seems to above the river, these hills were in the ground in a circle, and united dissipate the clouds. At sunset the covered with wood now golden with at the top, where the smoke passes Menomonie put to land to take in the hue of autumn, and above that, out through an opening something fuel. It was on the Iowa bank of the rising, as if directly out of it, naked, like our Laplander's huts, only on a river. I went on shore with Mr. Sibley. ruin-like crags of rich red brown, larger scale. There is a low opening

Swedish American Genealogist 2015:1 Mr. Sibley, who has lived many Excellent steamboats years among the Sioux, participating And to this must be added that I am in their hunting and their daily life, able to enjoy it in peace and freedom, has related to me many charac- from the excellent arrangement of teristic traits of this people's life and the American steamboats for their disposition. There is a certain gran- passengers. They are commonly deur about them, but it is founded three-decked - the middle deck being on immense pride; and their passion principally occupied by the passen- for revenge is carried to a savage and gers who like to be comfortable. cruel extreme. Mr. Sibley is also very Round this deck runs a broad gallery fond of the Indians, and is said to be or piazza, roofed in by the upper deck, a very great favorite with them. within which are ranged the passen- Sometimes, when we sail past Indian gers' cabins, side by side, all round villages, he utters a kind of wild cry, the vessel. Each cabin has a door in in the form of a door to each hut, and which receives an exulting response which is a window opening into the over which a piece of buffalo hide can from the shore. gallery. The saloon aft is always ap- be let down at pleasure. I saw We have now also some Indians on propriated to the ladies, and around through the open doors the fire burn- board, a family of the Winnebagoes, this are their cabins; the second great ing on the floor in many of the huts; husband, wife, and daughter, a young saloon also, used for meals, is the it had a pleasant, kindly appearance. girl of seventeen, and two young assembling place of the gentlemen. Little savage children were leaping warriors of the Sioux tribe, adorned Each little apartment, called a state- about the shore. It was the most with fine feathers, and painted with room, has commonly two berths in it, beautiful moonlit evening. red and yellow, and all colors, I fancy, the one above the other; but if the so that they are splendid. They re- steamer is not much crowded, one Missippi, October 17th. main on the upper deck, where I also can easily obtain a cabin entirely to Sunshiny, but cold. We have Indian remain, on account of the view being one's self. These apartments are territory through the whole of our so much more extensive. The Winne- always painted white, and are neat, course on the left; it is the territory bago man is also painted, and lies on light, and charming; one could of Minnesota, and we now see Indi- deck, generally on his stomach, remain in them for days with the ans encamped on the banks in larger propped on his elbows, and wrapped utmost pleasure. The table is gene- or smaller numbers. The Indians we in his blanket. The wife looks old and rally well and amply supplied; and see here are of the Sioux or Dacotah worn out, but is cheerful and talka- the fares, comparatively speaking, nation, still one of the most powerful tive. The girl is tall and good-looking, are low. tribes in the country, and who, to- but has heavy features, and broad, Thus, for instance, I pay for the gether with the Chippewas, inhabit round shoulders; she is very shy, and voyage from Galena to St. Paul only the district around the springs of the turns away if anyone looks at her. six dollars, which seems to me quite Mississippi (Minnesota). Each nation Last night we passed through too little in comparison with all the is said to amount to twenty-five Lake Pepin2 in the moonlight. It is good things that I enjoy. I have a thousand souls. The two tribes live an extension of the Mississippi, large charming little "stateroom" to my- in hostility with each other; but have enough to constitute a lake, sur- self, and the few upper class passen- lately held, after some bloody en- rounded by magnificent hills, which gers are not of the catechising order. counters, a peace congress at Fort seem to enclose it with their almost One of them, Mr. Sibley, is a clever, Snelling, where the American au- perpendicular cliffs. kind man, and extremely interesting thorities compelled these vengeful In the afternoon we shall reach St. to me from his knowledge of the peo- people, although unwillingly, to offer Paul, the goal of our journey, and the ple of this region, and their circum- each other the hand of reconciliation. most northern town on the Missis- stances. sippi. I am sorry to reach it so soon; I There are also some emigrant should have liked this voyage up the families who are on their way to Mississippi to have lasted eight days settle on the banks of the River St. at least. It amuses and interests me Croix and Stillwater, who do not indescribably. These new shores, so belong to what are called the "better new in every way, with their per- class," although they rank with such petually varying scenes; that wild - a couple of ladies who smoke people, with their camps, their fires, meerschaum-pipes now and then — boats, their peculiar manners and and, in particular, there are two half- cries - it is a continual refreshment grown girls, who are considerably in to me. my way sometimes. Ah! people may Henry Hastings Sibley.

Swedish American Genealogist 2015:1 come to this hemisphere as demo- The city is thronged with Indians. cratic as they will, but when they The men, for the most part, go about have travelled about a little they will grandly ornamented, and with naked become aristocratic to a certain ex- hatchets, the shafts of which serve tent. To a certain extent — but beyond them as pipes. They paint themselves that I shall never go. The captain of so utterly without any taste that it is the steamer, Mr. Smith, is a very incredible. Nearly all the Indians agreeable and polite man, who is my which I have seen are of the Sioux cavalier on board, and in whose ves- tribe. sel the utmost order prevails. Governor Ramsay drove me yes- We see no longer any traces of Eu- terday to the Falls of St. Anthony. ropean cultivation on shore, nothing They are some miles from St. Paul. but Indian huts and encampments. These falls close the Mississippi to The shores have become flatter since steamboats and other vessels. From we left Lake Pepin, and the scenery these falls to New Orleans the dis- tamer. tance is two thousand two hundred miles. A little above the falls the riv- At St. Paul er is again navigable for two hund- October. 25th. red miles, but merely for small ves- sels, and that not without danger. At about three miles from St. Paul Alexander Ramsey in 1848. we saw a large Indian village, con- The Falls of St. Anthony have no sisting of about twenty hide-covered young wife came on board, and in- considerable height, and strike me wigwams, with their ascending col- vited me to take up my quarters at merely as the cascade of a great mill- umns of smoke. In the midst of these their house. And there I am now; dam. The Mississippi is a river of a stood a neat log house. This was the happy with these kind people, and joyful temperament. home which a Christian missionary with them I make excursions into the Immediately above the falls, it had built for himself among the sav- neighborhood. runs so shallow over a vast level sur- ages, and here he had established a The town is one of the youngest face of rock that people may cross it school for the children. The village, infants of the Great West, scarcely in carriages, as we did to my a- which is called Kaposia, and is one eighteen months old, and yet it has stonishment. At no great distance of the established Indian villages, in this short time increased to a pop- below the falls the river becomes looked animated from its women, ulation of two thousand persons, and again navigable, and steamers go up children, and dogs. in a very few years it will certainly as far as Mendota, a village at the We sped rapidly past it, for the Mis- be possessed of twenty-two thousand, outlet of the St. Peter River into the sissippi was here as clear and deep for its situation is as remarkable for Mississippi, somewhat above St. as our own Gotaalv, and the next beauty and healthiness as it is ad- Paul. moment, taking an abrupt turn to the vantageous for trade. Here the Indi- As to describing how we traveled left, St. Paul was before us, standing ans come with their furs from that about, how we walked over the river upon a high bluff on the eastern bank immense country lying between the on broken trunks of trees which were of the Mississippi; behind it the blue Mississippi and the Missouri, the jammed together by the stream in arch of heaven, and far below it the western boundary of Minnesota, and chaotic masses. I considered many a Great River, and before it, extending the forests still undespoiled of their passage wholly and altogether im- right and left, beautiful valleys, with primeval wealth, and the rivers and practicable, until my conductors, both their verdant hill sides scattered with lakes abounding in fish, offer their gentlemen and ladies, convinced me wood - a really grand and com- inexhaustible resources, while the that it was to them a simple and manding situation - affording the great Mississippi affords the means everyday path. Ugh! most beautiful views. of their conveyance to the commer- On all sides the grass waved over We lay to at the lower part of the cial markets of the world, flowing, as hills and fields, tall and of an au- town, whence the upper is reached it does, through the whole of central tumnal yellow. There are not hands by successive flights of steps, exactly America down to New Orleans. enough here to mow it. The soil is a as with us on the Soders hojder by As yet, however, the town is but in rich black mold, which is superb for Mosebacke in Stockholm. Indians its infancy, and people manage with the growth of potatoes and grain, but were sitting or walking along the such dwellings as they can get. The not so agreeable for pedestrians in street which runs by the shore. drawing room at Governor Ramsay's white stockings and petticoats. A fine Scarcely had we touched the shore house is also his office, and Indians black dust soils everything. when the governor of Minnesota, Mr. and work people, and ladies and The eastern shore of the Missis- sippi, within Minnesota only, belongs Alexander Ramsay,3 and his pretty gentlemen, are all alike admitted. to the whites, and their number here Swedish American Genealogist 2015:1 does not as yet amount to more than has Canada on the north, on the west Jenny Lind seven thousand souls. The whole the wild Missouri, navigable through The newspapers of the West are mak- western portion of Minnesota is still almost the whole of its extent, and ing themselves merry over the rap- Indian territory, inhabited princi- flowing at the feet of the Rocky turous reception which the people of pally by two great nations, Sioux or Mountains, rich in metals and pre- New York have given Jenny Lind. In Dacotahs, and Chippewas, who live cious stones, and with prairies where one newspaper article I read: in a continual state of hostility, as graze wild herds of buffaloes, elks, "Our correspondent has been for- well as by some of the lesser Indian and antelopes. On the other side of tunate enough to hear Jenny Lind - tribes. Missouri lies that mystical Indian sneeze. The first sneezing was a mez- October 26th. Nebraska, where, beyond the Rocky zotinto soprano, &c., &c. ;"here follow I went yesterday with my kind en- Mountains, and for the most part still many absurd musical and art terms; tertainers into the Indian territory, unknown, lies Oregon, an immense "the second was, &c., &c.;" here follow by Fort Snelling, a fortress built by territory, with immense resources in the same; "the third he did not hear, the Americans here, and where mili- natural productions, vast stretches of as he fainted." tary are stationed, both infantry and valley and vast rivers, the Columbus I can promise the good Western cavalry, to keep the Indians in check. and the Oregon, which empty them- people that they will become as in- The Indians are terribly afraid of the selves into the Pacific Ocean. sane with rapture as their brethren Americans, whom they call "the Long What a glorious new Scandinavia of the East, if Jenny Lind should Knives," and now the white settlers might not Minnesota become! Here come hither. They now talk like the are no longer in danger. would the Swede find again his clear, Fox about the Grapes, but with bet- Fort Snelling lies on the western romantic lakes, the plains of Scania ter temper. bank of the Mississippi, where the St. rich in corn, and the valleys of Norr- One of the inhabitants of St. Paul's, Peter flows into that river; and at this land; here would the Norwegian find who had been at New York, returned point the view is glorious over the his rapid rivers, his lofty mountains, there before I left. He had some busi- broad St. Peter River, called by the for I include the Rocky Mountains ness with Governor Ramsay, but his Indians the Minnesota, and of the and Oregon in the new kingdom; and first words to this gentlemen were, beautiful valley through which it both nations their hunting fields and "Governor! I have heard Jenny Lind!" runs. Further up it flows through a their fisheries. The Danes might here highland district, and amid magni- pasture their flocks and herds, and ficent scenery inland five hundred lay out their farms on richer and less Goodbye, Minnesota! miles westward. misty coasts than those of Denmark. I shall tomorrow commence my The meadows looked most pleas- But seriously, Scandinavians who voyage down the Mississippi as far ant, most fertile and inviting. We met are well-off in the Old Country ought as Galena; thence to St. Louis, at a milkmaid also coming with her not to leave it. But such as are too which place I shall proceed up the milkpails; she was handsome, but much contracted at home, and who Ohio to Cincinnati, and thence to had artificial curls, and did not look desire to emigrate, should come to New Orleans, and, advancing on- like a regular milkmaid, not as a true Minnesota. The climate, the situa- ward, shall proceed from some one of milkmaid in a pastoral ought to look. tion, the character of the scenery the southern seaport towns to Cuba, But this Minnesota is a glorious agrees with our people better than where I intend to winter. country, and just the country for that of any other of the many Ameri- Northern emigrants —just the coun- can states, and none of them appear Endnotes: try for a new Scandinavia. It is four to me to have a greater or a more 1) Henry Hastings Sibley, b. 1811 in De- times as large as England; its soil is beautiful future before them than troit, MI, moved as a young man to the of the richest description, with exten- Minnesota. Minnesota Territory, where first was sive wooded tracts; great numbers of Add to this that the rich soil of a representative for it 1849-1853, and rivers and lakes abounding in fish, Minnesota is not yet bought up by after statehood became the first gov- ernor 1858-1860. He died 1891 in St. and a healthy, invigorating climate. speculators, but may everywhere be Paul. The winters are cold and clear; the purchased at government prices, one 2) Lake Pepin was in 1854 the place summers not so hot as in the states dollar and a quarter per acre. where the village of Stockholm was lying lower on the Mississippi. The A young Norwegian woman lives founded by immigrants from Karl- frosts seldom commence before the as cook with Governor Ramsay; she skoga, Sweden. middle of September. is not above twenty, and is not re- 3) Alexander Ramsey, b 1815 in PA, was The whole of Minnesota is hilly. markably clever as a cook, and yet governor of the Minnesota Territory Minnesota is bounded on the east by she receives eleven dollars per month 1849-1853, and in 1860-63 succeeded Lake Superior and is brought by this wages. This is an excellent country Sibley as governor of the state. He died into connection with the states in the for young servants. in St. Paul in 1903. east, with the St. Lawrence, and the For a link to the whole book by Miss Hudson, and the Atlantic Ocean. It Bremer, see page 30. Swedish American Genealogist 2015:1