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Step from the door, let the creek current carry you Surfers’ out to the break, and then surf until dusk. paradise Robert Upe, Craig Tansley and John Borthwick track down some great places to surf in PNG and the Pacific. SWILLY CLUB, SURF POHNPEI SOLOMONS, TOURISM FIJI, TOURISM PICTURES: CHRIS PEEL, SAPNG, JOHN BORTHWICK, PNG JAPAN TRAVEL,

Charging... a surfer catches a right hander at Ulingan Bay, opposite Tupira Surf Club, in Madang Province (above); beachfront huts at Vanimo (right).

NUSA ISLAND sleeping up to six. The best are during World War 2). Kayaking, such an event can be staged here HOW TO GET THERE achieves those numbers. There overwater and include verandahs fishing and diving are also on is testimony to the consistency Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby is an adjoining shower and toilet RETREAT, PNG with hammocks and en suites. the cards. and quality of the waves. There to Madang. It’s a two-hour block, as well as a bar and eating WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? There are also beach bungalows, are nine reef breaks in the area, 180-kilometre road trip north from area with a table-tennis table There’s boat access to several HOW TO GET THERE with a mix of en suites and shared including a right-hand point break. Madang to Tupira Surf Club. – RU and hammocks. Hire boards are nearby reef breaks, which typically Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby bathrooms. Dinner and drinks available. The food is fresh and break at 3–5 feet, sometimes up to Kavieng. Nusa Island Retreat STAYING THERE are in an open-plan restaurant/ local, whether it’s from the sea to 6–8 feet. Surfer numbers are picks surfers up at the airport for Tupira Surf Club (tupira.com) offers VANIMO SURF bar with a sand floor. The evening or land. capped and most likely you’ll be a short road and boat transfer to back-to-basics accommodation in LODGE, PNG buffet includes fresh seafood – surfing with just five or six others. the island. – RU a guesthouse that sleeps 12, six WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? outstanding every night during our As for all of PNG, the best surf is twin rooms and a two-bedroom PNG’s far north is blessed with Waterfall bushwalks, village tours visit. from November to April. TUPIRA SURF bungalow. Fresh and organic food uncrowded waves. There are at and beach or boat fishing are WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? is on the menu. least eight reef breaks and two available. STAYING THERE CLUB, PNG beach breaks close to Vanimo (and The retreat shares the island with WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? swells originate from Philippine STAYING THERE Nusa Island Retreat WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? many more a bit further away). HOW TO GET THERE a village, where you’re welcome to PNG’S inaugural international monsoons and North Pacific Vanimo Surf Lodge (nusaislandretreat.com) is on a Go fishing, catch prawns at night, All levels can find a wave here, Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby mingle or buy handicrafts. There’s surfing event – a round of the 2017 storms and range in size from 2–10 (vanimosurflodge.com) has small island across the harbour hang out with the locals or go bird whether it’s easy Town Beach or to Vanimo. Vanimo Surf Lodge a beautiful beach for swimming World Longboard Championship feet. There are plans for a round of traditional beachfront huts from Kavieng. The laidback retreat watching to see PNG’s famed Lido Point, a right-hander that can provides airport transfers. – RU opposite the restaurant, or snorkel – was conducted at Ulingan Bay, the WSL longboard championship facing Lido Point. The lodge has has 11 traditional bungalows, some bird of paradise. peel for 150 metres. Seasonal over wrecks (some of them sunk opposite Tupira Surf Club. That to be held at Vanimo this year. capacity for 16 guests but rarely

32 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine January – February 2019 33 TRAVELLER OUR REGION Surfers’ paradise

PAPATURA, At anchor ... the PNG Explorer in quiet waters; Fatboys in the Solomon Islands (below). SOLOMON ISLANDS WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? Papatura Island Retreat is on the shore of a pristine, out-of-the-way, jungle-lined bay. Access to nearby empty reef breaks is by boat with a guide/driver. Some of the breaks are within 10 minutes and include Anchovies, a right-hander that can barrel, and Zoli’s, a fun left-hander. Papatura waves are usually in the range of 3–6 feet and are best surfed from November to April. STAYING THERE Papatura (papatura.com) has a casual barefoot vibe with traditional-style basic huts. Some DALOM, PNG HOW TO GET THERE WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? are on the water’s edge and Air Niugini flies from Port Fish in waters that have hardly others are scattered in the jungle, WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? connected by boardwalks. Life here The wave at Dalom is an easy Moresby to Kavieng. Dalom is 170 been touched by commercial kilometres south of Kavieng on the fishing. Marlin jump as you troll; revolves around the open-sided beach break. Beside a creek and dining/kitchen hut, where three surrounded by jungle, a little Boluminski Highway, so arrange if you can’t catch a 10-kilogram a transfer when booking your plus game fish, throw your rod meals (including crab and crayfish) guesthouse sits right on a white- are served daily at shared tables. sand beach. Step from the door, accommodation. The highway runs away. You can also snorkel, visit let the creek current carry you the length of New Ireland Island, out to the break, and then surf tracking beside the sea – perfect until dusk. You can explore in both for surf checks as you drive. – JB directions along the coast for more challenging waves, such as further PNG EXPLORER south at Rubio Plantation Retreat WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? (newirelandsurf.com). You’ll be accessing deserted breaks by small ship along the New STAYING THERE Hanover and New Ireland coastline Dalom Village Guesthouse in the Bismarck Archipelago. (villagehuts.com) has six basic Surfers have a choice of breaks – rooms and several bungalows. some, like The Slab (shallow right- The meals are filling but simple, hander) are for experts, but mostly mainly fish, rice and vegetables; these are waves for intermediates. bring a few chocolate bars and other treats, if so inclined. The STAYING THERE traditional villages and dive World There’s also a bar, where everyone villagers are very friendly but, this While the cabins are fairly simple War 2 wrecks (Japanese and gathers after the day’s surfing being a traditional rural culture, and functional, there’s nothing American planes). to swap stories. Longboards and don’t expect nightlife. downgrade about staying on the shortboards are available free if PNG Explorer (pngsurfaris.com) – HOW TO GET THERE you don’t bring your own. WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? there’s even an espresso machine Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby Other activities include beach on board serving fresh-ground to Kavieng, where the PNG WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? fishing, trekking and cycling. PNG coffee. Passengers gather for Explorer is based. The good folk Fishing, snorkelling and village communal seafood dinners on deck, from the PNG Explorer will pick you visits are available. and beers are served cold at sunset. up at the airport. – CT

34 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine TRAVELLER OUR REGION TRAVELLER OUR REGION Surfers’ paradise Surfers’ paradise

HOW TO GET THERE STAYING THERE HOW TO GET THERE STAYING THERE Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby Fatboys Resort (solomonislands Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby It’s a 15-minute boat ride from the to Honiara five times weekly. From fatboys.com.au) consists of to Honiara. From Honiara, connect Pohnpei Surf Club (pohnpeisurfclub. Honiara, connect with Solomon comfortable en suite bungalows with Solomon Airlines for a one- com) to P-Pass. There are eight Airlines for a 60-minute flight to along the water’s edge, and an hour flight to Gizo and an eight- lagoon-front rooms (motel style) at Santa Isabel Island in a Twin Otter overwater restaurant/bar accessed minute boat journey to Fatboys. the club, with mod cons like AC, TV that lands on a grass strip, followed along a jetty. The food is simple and – RU and Wi-Fi. The bar and restaurant, by a short boat ride. – RU excellent. You can eat crayfish every renowned for its sushi, are where day without going broke. There’s a PALIKIR PASS, you want to hang out. snooker table in the bar and plenty FATBOYS, MICRONESIA WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? of lounges where you can catch the SOLOMON ISLANDS WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? Pohnpei is blessed with waterfalls, sea breeze with a gin and tonic. WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? Palikir Pass (P-Pass) has a many easily accessible. It is also The Fatboys resort is near Gizo, WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? fearsome reputation, and it’s true the site of the ancient stone ruins with several reef breaks accessed Swimming, snorkelling and fishing that pro surfers from around the of Nan Madol. Diving and war by boat. Two of the major breaks are available. Kennedy Island is a world suddenly show up when history are also on the agenda. are Paelonghi, a fast right-hander, small and uninhabited island you forecasts indicate a big swell. But HOW TO GET THERE and Titiana, a strong left-hander. can visit for a swim or picnic. It’s locals will tell you this only occurs Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby There are no crowds here and the where John F Kennedy (before once or twice a year and that this to Pohnpei. It’s a 10-minute drive few local surfers we meet are his presidency) hid when the wave usually breaks at 3–6 feet. from the airport to Pohnpei Surf welcoming. Japanese forces sank his PT boat Like all breaks in this area, it can Club. – RU during World War 2. only be accessed by boat. Chilling out ... the restaurant and bar at Pohnpei Surf Club.

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Vanuatu’s capital, home to the SIARGAO ISLAND, ranging from plush to primitive. BALER, PHILIPPINES island’s best bars and restaurants. Cafes and bars have followed. WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? Only 25 minutes to the Mele PHILIPPINES WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? “Charlie don’t surf,” ranted Robert Cascades waterfall – ideal for Siargao’s renowned wave, Cloud Visit other islands around Siargao, Duval in one of Hollywood’s most swimming and abseiling. Or hire a 9, is a shallow, hollow, board- such as Daku or Naked Island for famous lines. He was standing quad bike and explore the island snapping reef peak that’s not snorkelling. on Baler’s Sabang Beach where (adventurequadtours.com). Eratap for amateurs. Fortunately, this many of the coastal scenes of the Beach Resort (eratap.com) is 20 HOW TO GET THERE island off northeastern Mindanao Vietnam War classic, Apocalypse minutes from Port Vila and while Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby also has less gnarly breaks such Now, were shot. Here, at the it doesn’t market itself as a surf to Manila. Siargao Island is 800 In the groove ... a PNG local gets some wave action (this page); a surf shop at as Stimpy’s, Rock Island and birthplace of Philippines surfing, destination it does have a wave on kilometres southeast of Manila Baler in the Philippines (opposite). Pacifico, all reached by boat. With the movie’s memory lives on at occasions and provides surfboards. and 70 kilometres off Mindanao’s the annual Cloud 9 Cup now on the Charlie’s Point, a sand-bottomed, STAYING THERE Surigao City. You can take an BREAKAS BEACH HOW TO GET THERE world competition circuit, Siargao A-frame peak, plus numerous other That’s the best part: this is a resort overnight ferry from Cebu to Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby has become the surfing capital of beach breaks and the tougher RESORT, VANUATU set around a wave. Paddle straight Surigao (surigaoislands.com) and WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? to Port Vila. Breakas is a 15-minute the Philippines. July to November barrels of Cemento Reef. out from Breakas Beach Resort then a shorter ride to Siargao, Vanuatu will never compete drive from the international airport. is surf season. (breakas.com), then keep your eye followed by van transfer to General STAYING THERE with French Polynesia or Fiji for The resort can organise transfers on conditions for your next surf STAYING THERE Luna village. – JB Duval also bellowed, “I love the waves. But there’s a fun high-tide – it’s worth renting a car (Budget, from the pool. Villas look out on The past decade has seen a smell of napalm in the morning,” wave right in front of this resort Avis and Europcar operate from the the break. proliferation of small hotels, surf but you’ll more likely smell roast that’s a great right-hander for airport) with so much to see on the lodges and resorts, with standards pork, chicken adobo or fish soup. intermediates. WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? island of Efate. – CT You’re 10 minutes from Port Vila,

38 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine January – February 2019 39 TRAVELLER OUR REGION TRAVELLER OUR REGION Surfers’ paradise Surfers’ paradise

Snoozy, rural Baler (pronounced car or the daily Genesis Transport STAYING THERE Airways and the resort will pick STAYING THERE HOW TO GET THERE Bal-air) has a classic, Spanish- bus. The best surf is from October Stay at Qamea Resort & Spa you up and take you to a small boat This is Samoa’s surf central zone. It’s best to hire your own car; Avis era square, plus accommodation to February. See philippines-travel- (qamea.com) and take a speed harbour for a 10-minute ride across Coconuts Beach Club Resort & and Budget offer cars at Samoa’s ranging from surf lodges to hotels guide.com/baler-surfing.html. – JB boat to this outer reef break 20 the water to the resort. Expect a Spa (cbcsamoa.com) sits on a international airport. From the and resorts of varying standards. minutes away with a guide from song on arrival. – CT lagoon ideal for snorkelling and airport it’s a 75-minute drive on Check out Surfhouse Baler MAQAI, QAMEA Tropic Surf (which is stationed at looks across to the waves. It has roads where the speed limit’s a (surfhousebaler.com) and Blue ISLAND, FIJI the resort). The resort’s five-star, COCONUTS, SAMOA a trendy day spa and one of the leisurely 50kmh (watch out for kids Coco Baler Beach House, +63 WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? but it’s a barefoot kind of luxury. WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? better restaurants in Samoa. Those and pigs). 9175 401234. seeking even higher-end digs, can Unlike most of of those in Fiji, this WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? This is the best wave in Samoa try Sinalei Reef Resort and Spa WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? wave’s often yours to surf alone – There’s plenty to do within the (the South Pacific’s most under- CLOUDBREAK, FIJI (sinalei.com), while budget surfers Visit Baler’s historic church, scene a crowd here is five people. Only resort – from yoga overlooking the rated surf destination). It’s a WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? might prefer Maninoa Surf Fales of a dramatic, year-long siege discovered 12 years back, this is sea, to stand-up paddle-boarding right-hand wave that’s extremely Discovered in the 1970s, this is one (maninoa.com). during the Spanish-American War. the best wave in northern Fiji. It’s on tiny waves, which break just hollow and can hold swell up to of the world’s most revered waves. Try horseback riding on Sabang okay to surf at all tides (and that’s offshore. Also visit local traditional three metres. It’s best accessed WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? It’s a shallow, hollow left-hander Beach, diving or snorkelling on Los rare on a reef) but it is a reef break, villages, or take a boat to nearby by boat – though a paddle across That’s the great thing about that breaks below sea level. It can Confites Reef, or waterfall trekking. so no-one below intermediate level Taveuni to hike the renowned the lagoon is possible if you’re fit. Samoa – there’s plenty to do on hold surf up to 20-feet high and should surf it, except at high tide. forests of the so-called Garden Isle, If you’re not up for this wave, there flat days. The lagoon here’s ideal for can be deadly. HOW TO GET THERE and swim beneath waterfalls. are 11 easier alternatives nearby. swimming, snorkelling and kayaking Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby – while just a short drive away are to Manila. You can do the 140 HOW TO GET THERE waterfalls you can swim at. kilometre, six-hour road journey Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby northeast from Manila by rental Barrel ride ... a surfer pushes through to Nadi. Fly to Taveuni with Fiji at Vanimo.

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40 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine January – February 2019 41 TRAVELLER OUR REGION TRAVELLER OUR REGION Surfers’ paradise Surfers’ paradise

STAYING THERE paddle straight to the wave across limestone cliffs beside a Hindu road, while Single Fin (singlefinbali. 20 There’s two main choices – both a stunning lagoon. It’s set on a temple to a shallow left-hander com) is the most iconic surf bar are private island resorts. Namotu hectare block, and you’ll have local that’s actually five breaks in one. in Asia. Island Resort (namotuislandfiji. surf legend Tama Pacomme to Ride it all the way to the end and HOW TO GET THERE com) and Tavarua Island Resort show you the ropes. you have hero status for life. Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby (tavarua.com) sit on tiny atolls with WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? STAYING THERE to Bali. (Services were recently villas looking to the waves. Moorea is one of French Polynesia’s Nowhere in Bali is quite so surf temporarily suspended, so check WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? most striking islands. Rent a car or hip. There’s an ever-increasing airniugini.com.pg for updates.) There’s plenty to do on non-surf scooter and drive right around the number of accommodation options Take a taxi from the airport to days – this area offers some of the island in an hour. There are eight built high on the limestone cliffs Uluwatu. It’s a 40-minute journey best kite-surfing and diving options peaks to hike, and swimming with above. Three Monkeys Villas (metered and fixed fares are in the South Pacific. You’re also dolphins and rays in the lagoon (threemonkeysvillas.com) is the available). – CT part of the 20-island Mamanuca should be mandatory. There’s also pick of them – it’s 500 metres from For more information about group, accessible by boat – there’s the best championship golf course the break and is a true surfer’s surfing in PNG, see the everything here from sailing in Polynesia (greenpearl.golf.com/ retreat. Surf Association of Papua excursions to jet-skiing to a floating en/). WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO? New Guinea website, bar set on a pontoon, Cloud 9 HOW TO GET THERE Hire a scooter – Bali’s sapng.com. (cloud9.com.fj). You can fly from Tahiti in seven southwestern Bukit Peninsula is set HOW TO GET THERE minutes, or take a 45-minute ferry up for a motorbike. Cruise between Air Niugini flies from Port Moresby ride from Tahiti. It’s best to rent temples and jungle, dodging water to Nadi. At Nadi you’ll be greeted a car or scooter (international buffalo and surfers too excited to by staff who’ll take you on a bus car rental companies Avis and look both ways. for 30 minutes to board a long Europcar operate on Moorea). There’s surf-themed boat for a short ride across to the Ha’apiti is located 20 minutes from restaurants on resorts. – CT the wharf. – CT both sides of the HA’APITI, MOOREA, ULUWATU, BALI FRENCH POLYNESIA WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? WHAT’S THE SURF LIKE? Uluwatu was made famous French Polynesia’s famous for its in the 1971 surf classic, deadly reef breaks. Ha’apiti might Morning of the Earth. break like a classic Polynesian reef Surfers paddle pass, but it doesn’t have the same through a Kavieng Vanimo Nusa Island Retreat fear factor. It’s a left-hander, which hole in Rubio Plantation Resort Moments in the sun isn’t as shallow, or powerful. But and surf ... (clockwise you can get tubed for seconds. Dalom from opposite page) Tupira Surf Club Cloudbreak; Nusa Island STAYING THERE Retreat; a PNG local Moorea’s the home of the PNG with a home-made surf craft; board transport over-water bungalow, a in the Philippines; cabin honeymoon mainstay. at Nusa Island Retreat; Surfers should consider the ancient Nan Madol ruins in Micronesia; the Moorea Surf a sign spruiking the 0 Km 200 Inn (mooreasurf. surf at Vanimo; a wave com) – where Port accessed by the PNG Moresby Explorer; waterfall at you can Pohnpei, Micronesia.

Air Niugini carries 10 kilograms of any sporting equipment (including surfboards) for free. There is a 15-kilogram allowance for scuba-diving equipment. See airniugini.com.pg.

42 Paradise – Air Niugini’s in-flight magazine January – February 2019 43

0 500 Km