Peter Lindbergh a Different Vision of Fashion Photography Peter
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The Independent Magazine September 2003 P. 6-10 Foreign
The Independent Magazine September 2003 p. 6-10 Foreign bodies Think Nineties grunge-chic, and you’re probably thinking of a Juergen Teller Image. But, as the photographer tells Sebastian Smee, while he’s still fascinated with the wilder shores of fashion, his work is moving ever closer to home. Portrait by Gautier Deblonde THIS ONE will take some explaining. The photographer Juergen Teller pauses for a good 10 seconds, then ruffles his hair. I have asked about the circumstances that gave rise to the somewhat surreal image you see above. The sprouting flora, I have already learnt, is not an overgrown hedge: it’s a resplendent version of the artist Jeff Koons’s most famous work. Puppy. Nor is that a discarded Barbie doll straddling one of its ears: it’s the American supermodel Stephanie Seymour. This, as it happens, is Seymour’s place in Connecticut: her freshly mown lawn, her Puppy, and — not far out of shot — her 100 horses, her two swimming pools, her world- class collection of haute couture, her collection of late 20th-century art... “I guess I met Stephanie around ‘94,” begins Teller. We are on the ground floor of his studio and home in London’s Ladbroke Grove. A table in the middle of the room is piled with prints of photographs. There is a scale model of a gallery on the floor, which Teller and his assistants are using to plan the hanging of his September exhibition at Milton Keynes Gallery; at the far end of the room is a doorway and stairs leading up (to his studio) and down (to his living quarters). -
Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines
Chair of Urban Studies and Social Research Faculty of Architecture and Urbanism Bauhaus-University Weimar Fashion in the City and The City in Fashion: Urban Representation in Fashion Magazines Doctoral dissertation presented in fulfillment of the requirement for the degree of Doctor philosophiae (Dr. phil.) Maria Skivko 10.03.1986 Supervising committee: First Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Frank Eckardt, Bauhaus-University, Weimar Second Supervisor: Prof. Dr. Stephan Sonnenburg, Karlshochschule International University, Karlsruhe Thesis Defence: 22.01.2018 Contents Acknowledgements ................................................................................................................................. 5 Thesis Introduction .................................................................................................................................. 6 Part I. Conceptual Approach for Studying Fashion and City: Theoretical Framework ........................ 16 Chapter 1. Fashion in the city ................................................................................................................ 16 Introduction ....................................................................................................................................... 16 1.1. Fashion concepts in the perspective ........................................................................................... 18 1.1.1. Imitation and differentiation ................................................................................................ 18 1.1.2. Identity -
Locational Relationality in Hedi Slimane and Helmut Lang Susan Ingram
Document généré le 3 oct. 2021 03:30 Imaginations Journal of Cross-Cultural Image Studies Revue d’études interculturelles de l’image Where the Boys Who Keep Swinging Are Now Locational Relationality in Hedi Slimane and Helmut Lang Susan Ingram Fashion Cultures and Media – Canadian Perspectives Résumé de l'article Cultures et médias de la mode – Perspectives canadiennes Cet article illustre les mécanismes par lesquels Berlin et Vienne en sont venus à Volume 9, numéro 2, 2018 figurer différemment dans l’imaginaire mondial de la mode. Il établit la relation locale stylistique de Hedi Slimane et Helmut Lang, deux dessinateurs URI : https://id.erudit.org/iderudit/1059167ar de mode connus pour leur styles distictintifs qui résistent aux normes DOI : https://doi.org/10.17742/IMAGE.FCM.9.2.7 prévalentes de la respectabilité bourgeoise. La nature relationnelle de leurs identités géographiques—L’attrait de Berlin pour Slimane et le rejet de Vienne pour Lang—est liée à l’imaginaire urbain des deux villes, ce qui se manifeste en Aller au sommaire du numéro rendant hégémoniques des aspects particuliers des époques et du style de l’histoire des deux villes. Éditeur(s) York University ISSN 1918-8439 (numérique) Découvrir la revue Citer cet article Ingram, S. (2018). Where the Boys Who Keep Swinging Are Now: Locational Relationality in Hedi Slimane and Helmut Lang. Imaginations, 9(2), 67–83. https://doi.org/10.17742/IMAGE.FCM.9.2.7 All Rights Reserved ©, 2018 Susan Ingram Ce document est protégé par la loi sur le droit d’auteur. L’utilisation des services d’Érudit (y compris la reproduction) est assujettie à sa politique d’utilisation que vous pouvez consulter en ligne. -
This Book Is a Compendium of New Wave Posters. It Is Organized Around the Designers (At Last!)
“This book is a compendium of new wave posters. It is organized around the designers (at last!). It emphasizes the key contribution of Eastern Europe as well as Western Europe, and beyond. And it is a very timely volume, assembled with R|A|P’s usual flair, style and understanding.” –CHRISTOPHER FRAYLING, FROM THE INTRODUCTION 2 artbook.com French New Wave A Revolution in Design Edited by Tony Nourmand. Introduction by Christopher Frayling. The French New Wave of the 1950s and 1960s is one of the most important movements in the history of film. Its fresh energy and vision changed the cinematic landscape, and its style has had a seminal impact on pop culture. The poster artists tasked with selling these Nouvelle Vague films to the masses—in France and internationally—helped to create this style, and in so doing found themselves at the forefront of a revolution in art, graphic design and photography. French New Wave: A Revolution in Design celebrates explosive and groundbreaking poster art that accompanied French New Wave films like The 400 Blows (1959), Jules and Jim (1962) and The Umbrellas of Cherbourg (1964). Featuring posters from over 20 countries, the imagery is accompanied by biographies on more than 100 artists, photographers and designers involved—the first time many of those responsible for promoting and portraying this movement have been properly recognized. This publication spotlights the poster designers who worked alongside directors, cinematographers and actors to define the look of the French New Wave. Artists presented in this volume include Jean-Michel Folon, Boris Grinsson, Waldemar Świerzy, Christian Broutin, Tomasz Rumiński, Hans Hillman, Georges Allard, René Ferracci, Bruno Rehak, Zdeněk Ziegler, Miroslav Vystrcil, Peter Strausfeld, Maciej Hibner, Andrzej Krajewski, Maciej Zbikowski, Josef Vylet’al, Sandro Simeoni, Averardo Ciriello, Marcello Colizzi and many more. -
The Art of He’S One of Fashion’S Living Legends: a Designer, Hotelier and Restaurateur with a Billion-Pound Business to His Name
EMBROIDERED SILK BLOUSE, £7,700, Silk SKIRT, £1,550, and SATIN SHOES, £680, GIORGIO ARMANI ArmaniTHE ART OF He’s one of fashion’s living legends: a designer, hotelier and restaurateur with a billion-pound business to his name. But who is the real Mr Armani? Ahead of his outstanding achievement award at the UK’s ‘fashion Oscars’ tomorrow, Jane McFarland is granted a rare audience at home with the fiercely private man the Milanese call King Giorgio – while his friend the model Eva Herzigova wears his latest Resort collection Photographs Anton Corbijn Styling Margherita Moro 34 The Sunday Times Style The Sunday Times Style 35 THIS PAGE SILK VELVET Style Exclusive SHIRT, £860, maTCHING JACKET, £2,300, and TROUSERS, £860, GiorGIO ARMANI. NECKLACE, EVA’S OWN OPPOSITE WOVEN CLOAK, POA, AND SILK SHANTUNG TROUSERS, £860, GIORGIO ARMANI IT’S NOT WHOLLY EXAGGERATING to compare securing surfaces, from panthers to reptiles — perhaps unsurprising, an audience with Giorgio Armani (or Mr Armani as he is given his second home, an hour from Milan, has a zoo. known to his inner circle) to arranging a casual cuppa with Outside, there’s a parked Bentley, doormen and 24/7 the Queen. Or maybe the Duchess of Sussex. He rarely talks surveillance. Across the road are the Armani offices, and to journalists, even less so the British press, so when I’m nearby, his hotel, the Emporio Armani cafe and the Via finally granted a 15-minute conversation at home with the Manzoni concept store. Even the hangar at Milan Linate king of Italian fashion, solo owner of Giorgio Armani SpA, airport bears a giant Armani logo; make no mistake, Mr who Forbes estimates to have a personal fortune of £8.26bn, Armani wields the power in Milan. -
I Teach at a School Where White and Black the Cafeteria. I E a C at A
" [ TEACH at a school where yes 0 f P i Bet a Phi Winter-1996 ma'am' and 'no ma'am' are heard frequently. I teach at a school where white and black students call each other friend an eat together in the cafeteria. I e a C at a school where ifyou are absent, someone in the class is related to you. I at a school where • t a I supplies are not brand new and neither are my students' clothes. I tea ch at a school where students come to learn and be disciplined. [ at a school where you really learn to love your students. , , -Laurie Ramsey V\ralker. Tennc~see Gamn1cl Pi Phis who IlliNOIS Au>HA J EAN EGMO jeanie serves as assistant dean of the School of D """" _ "",-,,,I E Education and Social Policy at orthwestern University. As a nontra jeanie has been chosen as a mem cared about her. Then one morning the ditional school of education, the school ber of Northwestern's Associated phone rang at 6:30. It was Tanya's defines education broadly and looks at Student Government Faculty Honor mother. She said, "You don't need to all the different contexts in which learn Roll by the students of Northwestern come today. Tanya passed last night. " ing and education occur. and has twice been named Would I choose this profeSSion again? A graduate of Monmouth College, Northwestern's Outstanding Greek Yes . Would I recommend this profes jeanie had a double major in business Advisor. jeanie hopes what students sion? Yes, 1 would. -
Guess Who's Coming to Dinner
GUESS WHo’s cominG TO DINNER BY DONALD McPHERSON Dress Paule Ka Blouse Hugo Boss Tank top Dolce & Gabbana Her coat Ferragamo Left to right him suit Hugo Boss shirt Hugo Boss Maid uniform Creative Costume him suit Prada shirt Dior Homme eyewear Giorgio Armani tie Prada Him cardigan Givenchy shirt Sonia Rykiel trousers Prada Her dress Giles Deacon Left to right her top Nina Ricci shirt Marc Jacobs Him cardigan Sonia Rykiel Homme shirt and trousers J.Lindeberg Her coat Etro Coat Bill Blass Him suit Prada shirt Dior Homme eyewear Armani Jacket Jean Paul Gaultier Cowlneck Bless Him suit, shirt & tie Hugo Boss Trousers Alexander Herchcovitch Her dress Giles Deacon hosiery Capelli New York Her shawl Collar tunic Tao blouse Ashfin Feiz Her jacket & trousers Yohji Yamammoto turtleneck Malo flatsC oach Him Shirt Hugo Boss Him priest costume Creative Costume NYC Left to right her dress Shelly Steffee blouse Jean Paul Gaultier Her dress Veronique Leroy shoes Paule Ka Him suit Prada shirt & tie Hugo Boss Him suit Prada shirt Dior Homme tie Prada eyewear Giorgio Armani Her jacket Vera Wang,blouse Hugo Boss skirt Bill Blass Her jacket Comme des Graçons turtleneck Shirley Steffee trousers Giorgio Armani Left to right suit & shirt Hugo Boss Suit Giorgio Armani shirt Ralph Lauren tie Hugo Boss Jacket & trousers Louis Vuitton blouse Viktor & Rolf Production: Springworks Production Fashion Editor: John Slattery Fashion Assistants: Jessica Leone, Edward Bowleg Makeup: Angie Parker @ JGK New York Makeup Assistants: Fumiaki Nakagawa Hair: Jeff Francis for Kerastase Paris @ The Wall Group Photo Assistants: Tommy Agriodimas, Ferny Chung Studio Manager: Roman Ivanov Digital Imaging: Omid Mohadjeri – [email protected] Casting by: Melissa Batsel and Andrew Weir for acwworldwide.com Special thanks to: Lisa Polanco @ acwworldwide.com Traci @ Bella and Nigel @ Renegade \ Kirsten Owen ( Katharine Hepburn) One Model Management Lee Lawrence (Sidney Poitier) Renegade Joe Kloenne (Spencer Tracy) Wilhelmina Alzbeta (Katharine Houghton) Ford Larry Montgomery (Mr. -
Simon Is a Rock Star, Yasmin Is a Supermodel. the Le Bons Enjoy Global Fame and Cultural Influence That Extends from Fashion
renown / fame Simon is a rock star, Yasmin is a supermodel. The Le Bons LeBenjoy global fame and culturalon influence that extends from fashion and music to their altruistic endeavours. In this #legend exclusive, they tell their story to THERESA HAROLD Photography / Robert Astley Sparke Styling / Roberta Resta Cover On Yasmin On Yasmin Dress _ Temperley London Earrings _ Chopard Jacket _ Ermanno Scervino Dress _ Temperley London Watch _ Chopard Rings _ Yasmin’s own Rings _ Yasmin’s own On Simon On Simon Tuxedo and shirt _ Dolce & Gabbana Tuxedo and shirt _ Dolce & Gabbana 188_#legend_April 2016 April 2016_#legend_189 renown / fame SIMON LE BON has a cold. But the Duran Duran lead singer will not let it prevent him from giving interviews. It’s Monday morning at Blakes Hotel in London and Simon is preparing for a shoot with his supermodel wife of 30 years, Yasmin Le Bon. — A self-styled “consummate unprofessional”, Simon is in playful spirits. He jokes with the crew as they show him the wardrobe options, and his eyes seek out Yasmin’s whenever she enters the room. At 51, Yasmin Le Bon emanates the type of relaxed beauty that cannot be found in a jar or syringe. Her hair is shampoo-commercial bouncy. Her laugh is warm and throaty. There is an easy intimacy between the couple, whether it’s in the casual conversations about domestic matters (“Did you feed the woofs?”), or the cheeky bum- After nearly 40 years together as Duran Duran, how does pinches in between takes. it feel to go on the road? SThey met in 1984, when Yasmin was modelling in London. -
Donna Karan Celebrated the Easy-Pieces Mantra on Which Ample Knits That Covered Cozy from Nordic to Aran to Homespun, the Latter in the Mulleavy She Founded Her House
PLUS HAIDER ACKERMANN SOCIAL MEDIA CRUSH BELLE CURVES MISSING MCQUEEN CHANEL’S ICEBERG ROAD TO TRADITION WWD BYE-BYE, BRYANT PARK COLLECTIONS CARDIN’S SPACE RACE CHRISTOPHER BAILEY Inspector Gadget A Top Ten: John Galliano is RICCARDO TISCI riding high at Givenchy’s Self-Made Man Christian Dior. L’WREN SCOTT Fearlessly Chic THE TRENDS PATCHWORK FUR NORDIC TRACK BLUSH HOUR PLAID TIMES VELVET CRUSH ARMY LIVES AND MORE The Top Ten FALL ’10 Collections 0412.COL.001.Cover.a;15.indd 1 4/6/10 8:42:43 PM You Choose vote for Your favorite designer P o P u L a r vote SPONSORED bY Make your favorite designer a winner at the 2010 CFDA Fashion Awards and be entered for a chance to win tickets to a New York Fashion Week show.* The CFDA Fashion Awards are a production of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. www.cfda.com vote now on *NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. To enter and for full rules, go to www.wwd.com/popular-vote. Starts 9:00 AM EST 4/1/10 and ends 11:59 PM EST 5/28/10. Open to legal residents of the 50 United States/D.C. 18 or older, except employees of Sponsor, their immediate families and those living in the same household. Odds of winning depend on the number of entries received. Void outside the 50 PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER United States/D.C. and where prohibited. A.R.V. of prize $1,459.99: Sponsor: Condé Nast Publications. You Choose vote for Your favorite designer P o P u L a r vote SPONSORED bY Make your favorite designer a winner at the 2010 CFDA Fashion Awards and be entered for a chance to win tickets to a New York Fashion Week show.* The CFDA Fashion Awards are a production of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. -
Alexander Wang
Fashion. Beauty. Business. APRIL 2015 No.1 Alexander Wang The Six Who will build the powerhouse brands US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 of tomorrow? CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 A look at six of the EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 industry’s best bets. Fashion. Beauty. Business. APRIL 2015 No.1 The Row The Six Who will build the powerhouse brands US $9.99 JAPAN ¥1500 of tomorrow? CANADA $13 CHINA ¥80 UK £ 8 HONG KONG HK100 A look at six of the EUROPE € 11 INDIA 800 industry’s best bets. Christopher Kane J.W. Anderson Introducing the ricky drawstring 888.475.7674 ralphlauren.com The Ricky Sunglass ARMANI.COM/ATRIBUTE 800.929.Dior (3467) Dior.com © 2015 Estée Lauder Inc. © 2015 DRIVEN BY DESIRE esteelauder.com NEW. PURE COLOR ENVY SHINE On Carolyn: Empowered Sculpt. Hydrate. Illuminate. NEW ORIGINAL HIGH-IMPACT CREME AND NEW SHINE FINISH Contents Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Alexander J.W. Wang The Row Anderson Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Fashion. Beauty. Business. Chitose Christopher Proenza Abe Kane Schouler Six Covers Photographer Nigel Parry shot the designers for the cover story during a whirlwind global tour. “To be asked to photograph the covers for the launch of the new WWD weekly is a gift to any photographer,” he said. “I’m not saying it was easy — eight designers, six days, three continents — but the jet-lag was kept at bay by meeting such great talents. Thank you WWD!” Cover Story The 168 Fashion has long been obsessed with the new, the fresh, the unexpected, never more so than now. -
Siren Song Think Greta Garbo
WWDMILESTONESSECTION II Valentino at 50 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 Siren Song Think Greta Garbo. Not the reclusive one but the vamp version, camera-ready in spring’s high-glam lingerie looks. Here, Josie Natori’s embroidered silk satin slipgown under Dennis Basso’s nylon organza and chinchilla bed jacket. Badgley Mischka earrings; Barbara Flood’s Closet belt. For more, see pages 6 and 7. PHOTO BY KYLE ERICKSEN; STYLED BY BOBBI QUEEN Karstadt Keeps LIQUIDITY ISSUES Pushing Ahead HMX Under Pressure, By MELISSA DRIER Decision Expected Soon BERLIN — It’s action time at Karstadt. A triple-header of major store events has seen fielding unsolicited offers from po- the German department store chain taking rapid By JEAN E. PALMIERI tential bidders. Interested buyers in- strides towards modernizing and differentiating and VICKI M. YOUNG clude two brand management firms, its business as outlined in the “Karstadt 2015” Authentic Brands Group and Iconix strategic plan. Reflecting the group’s multitiered THE OTHER SHOE is about to drop for Brand Group, and private equity firm structure, the moves have been made on both HMX Group. Bluestar Alliance. upper and midmarket levels. The consistent mes- The company is running out of time In a bankruptcy scenario, sources sage, however, has been one of trading up and, to as liquidity constraints are forcing it to said one of those bidders would be some extent, cleaning out. decide as soon as this week whether to chosen as the “stalking horse” for Prior to the grand opening of KaDeWe’s new sell the firm or file for bankruptcy court the firm’s intellectual property as- Luxury Boulevard, the store’s revamped beauty protection. -
VALENTINO and GIAMMETTI, FIVE YEARS LATER Valentino at 50 a HALF-CENTURY of GRACE and GLAMOUR
II II SECTION WWDMILESTONESSECTION ■ STEFANO SASSI BUILDS FOR THE FUTURE ■ CHIURI & PICCIOLI: CARRYING THE DESIGN MANTLE ■ VALENTINO AND GIAMMETTI, FIVE YEARS LATER Valentino at 50 A HALF-CENTURY OF GRACE AND GLAMOUR. Spring 2013 ready-to-wear. PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE 2 WWD MONDAY, OCTOBER 15, 2012 SECTION II WWD.COM WWD MILESTONES 1994 The designer creates costumes for “The Dream of Valentino,” an opera about silent-movie star Rudolph Valentino. Fabulous 50 1995 More than 30 years after his first show The fashion house’s storied history. Compiled by Fabiana Repaci at the Pitti Palace, Valentino returns to Florence and shows at the Stazione Leopolda. The city’s mayor awards him a 1932 fall couture collection at New York’s special prize for Art in Fashion. Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani is Metropolitan Museum of Art. Q The house licenses Warnaco for lingerie. born on May 11 in Voghera, in Northern Q Valentino shows in Tokyo for the first Italy, to Mauro Garavani, director of an time. 1996 electrical supply business, and Teresa de The designer receives the distinction of Biaggi. 1983 Cavaliere del Lavoro. Maria Grazia The Italian Olympic Committee selects Chiuri and 1959 Valentino to design uniforms for the 1984 1997 Pierpaolo Valentino’s first couture studio opens at 11 Summer Games in Los Angeles. Launch of Very Valentino fragrance; a Piccioli, 2012. Via Condotti in Rome. A second follows on men’s version follows in 1999. Via Sant’Andrea in 1965. 1985 Q Debut of the new sportswear line V Zone. Q In January, Valentino holds his last The fragrance Valentino di Valentino couture show at the Musée Rodin in Paris, 1960 launches.