INSIDE ITALY: GOING NATIVE IN TRAPANI

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TRAVEL Trapani: Tradition and Innovation Fish dishes, olive oil and antiquities add to its appeal. By Susan Van Allen

irst meals of a trip to Italy hold a special place in licious greeting made for a golden beginning to discover- the memory books. Last November,it was lunch: ing the flavors of Trapani. Fa steaming bowl of cous cons di pesce that I was Most travelers to Sicily land in Palermo and head east served when I arrived in Trapani, a western Sicilian to Taormina, or south to Agrigento's Valley of the Tem- province. Along with the cous cous came a pitcher of ples. On this trip I discovered the wonders in the west- sauce to drizzle over it, subtly flavored with pepper and ern,less -touristy direction. saffron, perfectly complementing the fresh, delicate fish Unlike eastern Sicily, which was settled by the Greeks, that topped the bowl. Pesce, or fish, is the culinary star Trapani's origins stretch back further—to the Phoeni- here, where there's been a major port for more than 2,500 cians, and a tribe called the Elymians, who fished and years. After the long plane ride from Los Angeles,this de- fought here before the Greeks took over in the 5th cen-

TASTES OF ITALIA • MARCH / APRIL 2012 33 ISLAND TIME

BC Greek temples in Segesta and Selinunte, mixture boils, stirring well. Reduce the which appear like mystical visions on isolated heat to a simmer and cook 10 minutes. hillsides. Also remarkable is a third century Add the fish to the mixture and raise the BC Greek bronze dancing satyr, that's the heat to medium, cooking the fish 5 to 10 pride andjoy ofthe museum ofthe port town minutes, depending upon the thickness of ofMazara del Vali°. It was discovered by local fishermen in 1998, dredged up from the sea, the fish. Cover and turn off the heat. and meticulously restored. The satyr now floats in a special section ofthe tiny museum, For the cous cous: evoking thoughts of raucous ancient party Heat the butter in a saucepan on days. medium low until melted, then add the There's even history in my Trapani hotel, cous cous and stir until coated. Baglio Oneto. Like many other baglios in the Stir in the saffron and salt, and then the province,it's a fairytale styled stone structure with a big square courtyard that was a farm broth, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat manor home in medieval times. I sat in the to a low simmer, cover and cook until the Baglio dining room, with a view ofthe sea in liquid is absorbed, about 8 minutes. the far distance, savoring every bite ofthat de- licious cous cous di pesce. How marvelous to To serve: be alive in this jet age that brought me here, Trapani's closeness to North Strain the sauce through a sieve. Add tury BC. And to indulge in such wonderful flavors! from the rest salt to taste and discard the bay leaf. Africa distinguishes its cuisine These Trapanese recipes are perfect for as that cous ofSicily—with unique dishes such spring—light,flavorful, with a unique Sicilian Put cous cous in a large heavy bowl. Stir cous di pesce. zing that will bring new,fresh flavors to your in half the sauce, top the cous cous with where tuna is the Besides the bountiful sea, table. the fish fillets and cover the bowl with alu- superstar of all the fishes caught, Trapani is minum foil. Let it rest for 10 to 15 minutes. agriculturally rich - covered with olive groves, Serve with a gravy boat of the remain- vineyards, and fields of wheat. To top it off, Cous Cous di Pesce there are coastal marshes where sea salt, ing sauce to pass around the table. 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil prized by gourmets all over the world,is exca- Makes 6 servings. vated. Along with all these treasures are ded- 1 large red onion, finely chopped icated natives. They are keeping Trapani's 1 tablespoon , finely chopped Pesto Trapanese culinary traditions alive, but also creating in- 1 teaspoon sea salt novations so the wonderful food of the /1 2 teaspoon peperoncino 1 pound pasta (in Trapani they use province can be enjoyed all over the world. 1 bay leaf Busiate, a curled . If you can Among the innovative Trapanese is Alberto Pinch of saffron find it, that's best to use. Campo Artigi- Galluffo, an olive oil genius, with dark, wild- 2 tablespoons tomato paste mad-scientist hair. "It's all processed by com- nale imports from Trapani) puter;' he told me,shouting over the roar of 2 cups crushed plum tomatoes 1 cup blanched the state-of-the-art crushing machines he su- 4 cups fish stock 2 garlic cloves, peeled pervises, when I visited his frantoio (olive 2 pounds firm fish fillets, such as cod, 1/1 2 cups fresh basil leaves mill), Terre di Mezzo. Crates of olives outside grouper or red snapper, sliced into 1 teaspoon sea salt been handpicked, and thanks to had just 3-inch chunks and sprinkled with salt 3/4 pound of cherry tomatoes quick processing, precise monitoring ofevery /1 3 cup extra virgin olive oil phase of crushing, and then controlling the For the Cous Cous: /1 2 cup grated pecorino cheese storage process so the oil naturally settles and doesn't need filtering, the end product is es- 3 tablespoons butter While preparing the pesto, begin cook- pecially intense and fragrant. Another creative 2/1 2 cups cous cous company is AntiebiSapori di Sicilia,that bot- A pinch of saffron ing the pasta according to package direc- tles up such delicious things as Trapani's sun- 4 cups fish broth tions. dried tomatoes, anchovies, and an amazing 1 teaspoon sea salt For the pesto, process the almonds and pistachio cream condiment,in such a way that garlic in a food processor until they form a flavors stay fresh. And there's Vito Laudicina, Prepare the sauce: paste. Add the basil and salt and process inspired by his winemaker father, who was In a large saucepan, cook the onion and until chopped fine and well combined. but took the family business in another direc- garlic in the olive oil over medium low heat Add the tomatoes and process together. tion. He now uses a recipe from the 1960s to until translucent. make ConiAroma 33, a distinctive wine vine- Drizzle in the olive oil and process to com- gar/grape must condiment that livens up Stir in the salt, peperoncino, and bay bine. meats and salads. leaf. Add the saffron and tomato paste. Stir the pesto into the cooked, drained The backdrop to all this contemporary ac- Stir until well mixed together, and cook a pasta. Serve with grated pecorino on the tion is stunning sights that showcase Trapani's few minutes. Pour in the crushed tomatoes side. fifth century rich history. Most amazing are and the fish broth. Raise the heat until the Makes 6 servings.

34 MARCH / APRIL 2012 • TASTES OF ITALIA Spaghetti with Tuna and Tomatoes While preparing the sauce, begin cooking the pasta according to package directions. 1 pound spaghetti (Busiate, if available) For the sauce, add olive oil to a pan and sauté the garlic over 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil medium heat until slightly golden. Add the tuna, salt, and toma- 3 cloves garlic, chopped toes and cook for 5 to 10 minutes, turning the tuna until it is /1 2 pound of fresh tuna steaks, cubed cooked through. Add the white wine and raise the heat, cooking /1 2 teaspoon salt until the wine has evaporated. Add the vinegar and cook until 1 cup cherry tomatoes, sliced in half evaporated. Add the sugar and the mint, stirring it into the mix- /34 cup white wine ture. Cover the pan and cook on medium low heat for 3 minutes. 2 teaspoons vinegar Season with salt and pepper as desired. 1 teaspoon sugar When spaghetti is , toss it together with the sauce and 1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint serve. Sea salt and black pepper,to taste Makes 6 servings.

TASTES OF ITALIA • MARCH / APRIL 2012 35