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Credits Guest Curator: Hilary Simon With special thanks to: Head of Exhibitions: Alice Viera Albergaria Costa Borges Dennis Nothdruft Annie Hurlbut, Peruvian Connection Exhibition Design: Beth Ojari Armando Andrade Garment Mounting and Conservation: Camilo Garcia, IAG Cargo Gill Cochrane Carlos Agusto Dammert, Hellmann Exhibitions Coordinator: Marta Martin Soriano Worldwide Logistics Caryn Simonson, Chelsea College of Art Curator of ‘A Thread: Contemporary Art of Peru’: H.E Juan Carlos Gamarra Ambassador Claudia Trosso of Peru to Great Britain Jaime Cardenas, Director of Peru Trade Graphic Design: Hawaii and Investment Office Set Build and Installation: Setwo Ltd Leonardo Arana Yampe Graphic Production: Display Ways Mari Solari Handout Design: Madalena Studio Martin Morales Peruvian Embassy Head of Commercial and Operations: Promperú Melissa French Samuel Revilla and Luis Chaves, KUNA Operations Manager: Charlotte Neep Soledad Mujica Press and Marketing Officer: Philippa Kelly Susana de la Puente Front of House Coordinator: Vicky Stylianides Retail and Events Officer: Sadie Doherty Gallery Invigilation: Abu Musah PR Consultant: Penny Sychrava WEAVERS OF THE CLOUDS is a Fashion and Textile Museum exhibition Cover: ©Awamaki/Brianna Griesinger. Opposite: ©Mel Smith Opposite: Griesinger. ©Awamaki/Brianna Cover: Glossary of Peruvian Costume Women’s Traditional Dress Men’s Traditional Dress Ajotas – sandals made from recycled truck tyres. Ajotas – sandals made from recycled truck tyres. Camisa/blusa – a blouse. Buchis – short pants adapted from Spanish costume, which, Chumpi – a woven belt. depending on the area, come to the knee or a little longer. Juyuna – wool jackets that are worn under the women’s Centillo – finely decorated hat bands. shoulder cloths, with front panels decorated with white buttons. Chalecos – jackets that may be richly decorated. The jackets are elaborately adorned and commonly turned Chulico – a vest or waistcoat made of woollen plain weave cloth or inside out for everyday use. other material, decorated with buttons, embroidery and appliqué. K’eperina – a larger rectangular carrying cloth worn over Chullos – knitted hats with earflaps, which are frequently worn. the back and knotted in front. Children and goods are securely Chumpi – a woven belt. held inside. Chuspas – small woven bags used to carry coca leaves. Lliclla/manta – a small rectangular handwoven shoulder Poncho – the most distinctive part of men’s clothing is the cloth fastened at the front. handwoven poncho. Nearly every Quechua man and boy has Monteras – traditional hats that vary tremendously throughout a poncho, which is generally red in colour and decorated with the communities in the Andes. Often it is possible to identify the intricate designs. Each district has a distinctive pattern. village from the type of hat worn. Hats are secured with delicately Sombrero – a felt hat worn over the top of the chullo. woven sanq’apa straps adorned with white beads. Montera con cinta labrada – a hat with decorated ribbon. Polleras – colourful skirts made from handwoven wool cloth called bayeta. Women may wear three or four skirts to give a graduated layer effect. On special occasions such as festivals women may wear up to 15 polleras tied around the waist. Often the trim of each skirt is lined with a colourfulpuyto , which is usually handmade. In some areas polleras are also referred to as melkkhay (Quechua). Tupu – a decorated pin. Unkuna – a small rectangular cloth that is used for carrying snacks such as corn or coca. Llama Alpaca Guanaco Vicuña 4 5 KUNA Headpiece for Yma Sumac Foyer Pink sweater c.1950 KUNA Millennium collection This headdress was worn on the cover 2019 of Yma Sumac’s iconic album Voice 1 3 Alpaca, silk of the Xtabay. The album has been in Peruvian Connection KUNA KUNA garments are made with continuous production since its release. The Rebel Dance Dress ‘Saco Roanoke’ wool from alpaca, vicuña, llama and Courtesy of Damon Devine, 2019 2019 guanaco; KUNA contributes to the Yma Sumac Estate Pima cotton, metallic thread Alpaca, wool care, conservation, breeding and Handloomed body with hand- A jacket featuring the supernatural improvement of these species as well Earrings for Yma Sumac crocheted cuffs, neckline and hem. and geometric symbolism of as to the preservation of the Andean c.1950 Approximately five days are required Shipibo-Konibo and Xetebo art. communities. The earrings are vintage Peruvian to make one piece. filigree, and were worn by Yma Sumac KUNA KUNA in photo shoots and concerts around Peruvian Connection Blue alpaca sweater Knitted hat embellished with the world. Courtesy of Damon Devine, Mardi Gras Scarf 2019 pom-poms and tassels Yma Sumac Estate 2019 Alpaca KUNA Millennium collection Alpaca and merino wool 2019 Handloomed to imitate a woven KUNA Alpaca 6 technique. More than 50 colours Scarf collection This hat is inspired by the ‘chullo’, an Photograph of the soprano are used and each piece takes } Shipibo, Konibo y Xetebo Andean knitted hat worn in the Cuzco Yma Sumac approximately four hours to complete. 2019 region of Peru. Tassels and pom-poms c.1950 Baby alpaca, silk. The ‘Runinka’ stole are distinctive handmade accessories Courtesy of Damon Devine, Yma 2 is from a collection designed by the that are often used to embellish Sumac Estate Peruvian Connection Shipibo community with KUNA. Peruvian dress. The Blythewood Cardigan 7 2019 4 5 Photograph of the soprano Baby alpaca, wool KUNA Costume for Yma Sumac Yma Sumac Reversible jacquard knit finished Shawl (1923–2008). Dress c.1950 with a tubular jacquard border KUNA Millennium collection 1953 Courtesy of Damon Devine, Yma Approximately three days are 2019 This dress was made in 1953 and Sumac Estate required to complete one piece. Alpaca, silk was worn in three of Yma Sumac’s Inspired by Nazca culture, this four films:Secret of the Incas (1954), Toni Frissell (1907–1988) Peruvian Connection collection of designs was created to Música de Siempre (1958) and Las Fashion model following women Condor Belt reinvent the textiles and techniques Canciones Unidas (1960). down a street in Peru 2019 used by the ancient weavers of Peru. Courtesy of Damon Devine, 1952 Pima cotton with glass beads The collection explores all aspects of Yma Sumac Estate Fashion photograph featuring actress Hand crochet thread and pigment featuring in their Barbara Mullen (1914–1979) Each belt requires five to seven traditional works of art. Published in Harper’s Bazaar, Jan 1952 days to complete. Library of Congress 6 7 Introduction An ancient art The nation of Peru covers many different terrains: from coastal The textiles of pre-Columbian cultures has been made possible by the dry plains to highlands, rich vegetation to deserts, lakes to rainforests. have been admired for centuries for conditions of the coastal areas where In this extraordinary and varied landscape a long culture of their diversity of materials, techniques, burials were performed. The fibres materiality has been established, with vibrant and distinctive designs and decorative elements. The used by ancient Peruvians came from styles of work that are recognised as definitive of each region. methods and processes used have been the llamas, alpacas, guanacos and Peru has some of the most highly acclaimed examples of historic well documented, and many examples vicuñas native to the region. Cotton was woven and knitted cloth in the world. These have been preserved of traditional pieces have survived to the discovered and produced in the drier and treasured, surviving through the centuries due to the dry present day. climate of the coastal areas. Highlighted conditions of the climate, and in burial sites. Over its long history in the exhibition is a diverse range Peru has been ruled by numerous cultures and its artisans have There is a strong national identity in of techniques, including the famous continued to develop the skills of weaving using the backstrap the fibres and fabrics of Peru. These discontinued warp and weft weaving, loom, continuing the traditions of textile arts still found today. textiles illustrate the economic, social, tapestry weaving, woven cotton with political and religious development of feathers sewn in rows, textile fragments Weavers of the Clouds aims to widen understanding of the the culture of the nation. The dynasty of cross-knit looping, embroidery, techniques practised in the many differing regions of Peru. of the Incas, centred in the area around appliqué and the knotted cord structure The exhibition encourages us to observe the techniques and Cuzco, near the Andes in south-eastern of the quipu. Examples from the cultures processes, and to respect the loyal keepers of these specialist Peru, ruled in the late fifteenth and of the Huari, Paracas, Chimu and Nazca skills, which have been passed down through the generations. early sixteenth centuries. Textiles were are displayed, each with unique and Textiles are an integral part of a community’s identity, enriching valued as prized possessions, being recognisable characteristics. and educating those from outside the culture. Through viewed as status symbols and critical understanding comes appreciation and preservation. to the Incan sense of identity. The The techniques, materials and motifs patterns of Andean textiles are complex seen here in historic form continue to We examine the cloth from pre-Columbian times and look at signifiers, illuminating the maker’s or inform and inspire Peruvian designers, present-day costumes and accessories. The exhibition celebrates wearer’s place in the cosmos and artists and craftspeople. Many of the the remarkable diversity of applied arts created in a wide range imparting information on ethnic and skills are still used by the indigenous of materials, encompassing numerous symbols and employing a social identities. The preservation of communities throughout Peru, and varietya variety of oftechniques. techniques. many of these extraordinary materials remain a vital link with a vibrant past. 10 Griesinger page: ©Awamaki/Brianna Previous 11 1 5 from barkcloth from the fig tree and 10 Tunic panel Woman’s jacket decorated with vegetable dyes.