DEAR GEMüTLICHKEIT SUBSCRIBER The Travel Letter for Germany, , Switzerland & the New Europe

Heating Up the Leftovers In last month’s issue there were some things we overlooked in our stories on ground transport and QUEDLINBURG booking hotels via the Internet. Though historic Quedlinburg survived World War II intact, it withered under 45 years of • We failed to mention the re- communism. Today its recovering Altstadt is Germany’s largest historic preservation district. gional rail passes that are available in uedlinburg is a city of super- up the town. Indeed, in 1995, Germany. At the website for the latives. The first German Quedlinburg joined the likes of Deutsche Bahn you will find a listing “Reich” began there with the Lima, Damascus, Quebec, Kat- of 11 “Länder-tickets.” The Bayern- Q coronation of King Heinrich in 919 mandu and Prague as one of only Ticket, for example, is valid for sec- A.D. It has the most half-timbered 187 UNESCO World Heritage Cities. ond class travel on one day of your houses in Germany — about 1,500, choice in the Monday-Friday period. Local residents stress the reasons nearly 900 of them are designated It can be used on all local trains for restoration go well beyond tour- protected landmarks. It also contains throughout Bavaria and on the public ism. It’s a living city, — not, they the largest historic preservation dis- transport systems of and point out, a theme park. “We don’t trict in Germany, the 200-acre Altstadt. Nürnberg. The cost of the ticket is want to become another Rothen- Û21 ($19) and covers up to five per- Thankfully, Quedlin- burg,” says a local innkeeper. “We sons traveling together. For an addi- By Jim burg was spared during don’t want to be caught in a trap of tional charge of Û13 ($11) travel is Johnson World War II, and the nostalgia, or to make our raison d’être also permitted on IR and D-trains. buildings are original. just being looked at. We live here Costs and restrictions are the same During four decades of communism, and do business here.” for the other 10 regions. Visit: however, only 26 houses were re- Therefore, although Quedlinburg www.bahn.de/pv/int_guest/true/ built. Since reunification, Quedlin- opens its arms to visitors, it does so pv2_offers_national.shtml burgers have spent much of their without hype, attitude or artifice — • Though reservations for Swiss time and resources restoring nearly and, for the most part, without trains cannot be made through their 800 additional houses and cleaning Continued on page 3… U.S. sellers of rail passes such as Rail Europe and DER, you can make them yourself by emailing Swiss Rail Hidden Treasures at [email protected]. • Czech Rail has a website with consistent with a philosophy Evolène Switzerland an English version (http:// of travel that seeks places En- idos.datis.cdrail.cz/ConnForm.asp). C glish-speaking tourists seldom If you’ve a mind to virtually dis- It is similar to the German and Swiss visit, this month we begin a series on appear from the face of the earth for rail sites in that there is an easy-to- off-the-beaten-track destinations — a week or so, this just may be the use timetable search that delivers Hidden Treasures. For the most part, hideout you’re looking for. they will be geographically defined; detailed itineraries with information Everybody wants to see Zermatt villages, towns, even regions. But a Continued on page 2… and Grindelwald, but after that if Hidden Treasure can also be a hotel, they’re a little curious they might This Month in Gemütlichkeit a restaurant, a gallery, a fountain, a find themselves in Evolène and sud- Features Page vista, a country road, a museum, any- Quedlinburg ...... 1 denly realize that that was where Hidden Treasures ...... 1 thing or anyplace, as long as it’s wor- Readers’ Forum ...... 7 they really wanted to be all along. Gemütlichkeit Hotel Recommendations ...... 8 thy of your attention and is off the Key Web Sites ...... 8 They sought remote, authentic Swiss Commentary radar screen of most English-speak- Dear Subscriber ...... 1 villages, but what they got with the Hotels/Restaurants ing tourists. Though some will be Hotel Theophano, Quedlinburg G ...... 4 gorgeous views and four-star hotels Hotel Am Brühl, Quedlinburg G ...... 4 neither ‘hidden’ — a word that hard- Hotel Zur Goldenen Sonne, Quedlinburg G ...... 4 was tee-shirt shops and lots of folks Schlossotel Zum Markgrafen, Quedlinburg G ...... 5 ly applies to a town on every map of Rest. Zur Goldenen Sonne, Quedlinburg G ...... 5 from back home. Ratskeller, Quedlingburg G ...... 5 Europe — nor quite reach the ‘trea- Restaurant Theophano, Quedlingburg G ...... 5 Of course, this French-speaking Restaurant Am Brühl, Quedlingburg G ...... 5 sure’ level, we think you’ll find all Hotel Hermitage, Evolène S ...... 6 merit your consideration. mountain hamlet, about a 25-minute Pension d’Evolène, Evolène S ...... 6 Hotel Mader, Steyr A ...... 7 drive from Sion, is not without tour- Hotel Blankenburg, Coburg G ...... 7 We’ll start with three, one in each Hotel Goldene Traube, Coburg G ...... 7 ists — hikers and climbers in sum- Burghotel Aug Schönburg, Oberwesel G ...... 7 country: Continued on page 6… http://www.gemut.com May 2002

S http://www.gemut.com flight to was about $91, the Chunnel to Paris and Brussels. DEAR SUBSCRIBER with tax. Still a good deal. One-way fares range from $75 to Continued from page 1 $399, depending on a variety of fac- But how about Ryan’s very best about on-board services. tors including class of service, age, bargain? Try .01 GBP (1.5 cents) — how far in advance tickets are pur- • Austria’s rail system has a web- that’s right, less than two cents — for chased and whether or not the travel- site — www.oebb.at — but its timeta- a London-Brussels one-way. With tax er has a valid rail pass. bles are in German only. Most users, the cost is a little over $10. however, will be able to at least deter- Though Ryan would seem to Setting the Record Straight mine point-to-point train schedules. solve the ‘inexpensive’ side of the In the February issue of Gemütli- • A hotel website we missed last equation, when the ‘convenient’ side chkeit, I blamed Rail Europe’s own- month is www.lastminute.com. It is addressed the picture is not so ers, the French and Swiss railway finds eleventh-hour deals on hotels, rosy. All Ryan flights to the continent systems, for the latest price increases flights, and holiday packages, but are from Stansted Airport, more than in European rail passes. Apparently since it is London-based, only the an hour from the center of London that is incorrect. According to Laz- hotel part of lastminute.com would and even farther than that from arus Communications, Rail Europe’s seem to be of use to North Ameri- Heathrow or Gatwick. In addition, New York-based public relations cans. We found rooms at Munich’s Frankfurt passengers will discover agency, the actual decision to raise five-star Kempinski Vier Jahr- that Ryan flies not to Frankfurt/Main prices for 2002 was made by the Eu- eszeiten for from Û175 to Û216 ($154- but to Frankfurt/Hahn, about 90- ropean Rail Commission, whose $190), numbers that substantially minutes east of the city, which offers membership includes representatives undercut the hotel’s own website. very limited ground transport op- from the rail systems of the 17 coun- The best www.kempinski- tions, including no rail. Lufthansa tries that comprise the Eurail system vierjahreszeiten.de/en could do for contends Hahn is so far out it isn’t — including France and Switzerland. the same dates in late April was Û285 really a Frankfurt airport and is seek- Lazarus says Rail Europe, opposed ($251). Unfortunately, ing to prevent Ryan from advertising the increases. —RHB lastminute.com seems only to offer Frankfurt as a destination. Using Gemütlichkeit chain hotel in major cities. Our The nearly-free flight to Brussels • Foreign currency prices are converted to U.S. dollars searches in towns such as Lausanne, at the exchange rate in effect at the time of publication. lands at Charleroi Airport, about 55 Lucerne, Graz, Würzburg, and Nürn- • Hotel prices listed are for one night. Discounts are kilometers south of the city. berg drew blanks. often available for longer stays. Still, for the traveler who wants • All hotel prices include breakfast unless otherwise London to the Continent by Air an “open jaw" trip – land in London, noted. • Local European telephone area codes carry the “0” Lately we’ve heard from subscrib- return to the U.S. from someplace on ers seeking a convenient, inexpensive required for in-country dialing. To phone establish- the continent — Ryanair is tempting. ments from outside the country, such as from the USA, way to get from London to the conti- do not dial the first “0”. nent. Low-fare, no-frills Ryanair has The next best London to Frank- achieved big publicity of late for furt price found for the same date in Logging on to Gemütlichkeit’s Website some extremely low cost flights. In May was $122 on British Midland Except for the most recent 12, back issues in text format late April, for example, its website — from London City Airport. Check from January 1993 are available free to subscribers only at www.ryanair.com — quoted 10.99 www.europebyair.com and individu- http://www.gemut.com (click on “For Members Only”). al airline websites. To access the issues enter the user name and password GBP ($16) for a London to Frankfurt published in this space each month. The July codes are: one-way trip in May. Adding tax Of course there’s always the Eu- User Name: qued Password: 1138 brought the total to about $26. A rostar from the center of London via

Vol. 16, No. 4 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY May 2002 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Scale Scale Restaurant Criteria Excellent 16 - 20 Food 65% Publishers: Robert H. & Elizabeth S. Bestor Above Average 12 - 15 Service 20% Editor: Robert H. Bestor Average 8 - 11 Atmosphere 15% Contributors: Doug Linton, C. Fischer, R. Holliday, Jim Johnson Adequate 4 - 7 Web Master: Paul T. Merschdorf Unacceptable 0 - 3 Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Hotel Rating Criteria Value Rating Scale Subscription Dept: Kurt Steffans People/Service 30% Outstanding Value 17 - 20 Subscriber Travel Services: Eric Poole, Andy Bestor Location/Setting 15% Very Good Value 12 - 16 Average Value 9 - 11 Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published 11 times each year by UpCountry Guestrooms 30% Publishing, 288 Ridge Road, Ashland OR 97520. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521-6722 Public rooms 5% Below Average Value 5 - 8 or 541/488-8462, fax: 541/488-8468, e-mail [email protected]. Web site: Facilities/Restaurant 20% A Rip-Off 0 - 4 www.gemut.com. Subscriptions are $67 per year for 11 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information in this publication, the publishers Special G Designation can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. By virtue of location, decor, charm, warmth of management, or POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: combination thereof, an especially pleasant establishment. Gemütlichkeit, 288 Ridge Road., Ashland OR 97520 Gemütlichkeit 2 May 2002 http://www.gemut.com QUEDLINBURG Quedlinburg Basics ny’ second oldest — half-timbered Continued from page 1 Population: 24,500 house, the Ständerbau, lies at the base of the Schlossberg. Built in 1310, Elevation: 124 meters/ 407 feet bus loads of tourists. The experience its austere Gothic structure contains is far more subtle and sublime. The Tourist Information: Quedlinburg Tourist the Fachwerkmuseum, devoted to Office, Markt 2, D-06484 Quedlinburg, tel. food is traditional, the lodging histor- +49/3946/90 56 25, fax 90 56 29, email: the evolution of the half-timbered ic, and the people warm and sincere. [email protected], web: construction style which is depicted Kitsch is decidedly absent. And even www.quedlinburg-info.de in a wealth of maps, photographs and the shortest walk yields a sense of Distance from Quedlinburg to: models. (Descriptions in German.) exploration and discovery. Berlin 211 km 131 miles Quedlinburg’s concentration of Frankfurt 278 km 173 miles The best place to start a tour of half-timbered houses makes it easy to Hamburg 297 km 185 miles Quedlinburg is atop the Schlossberg put your new-found knowledge to Hanover 160 km 99 miles (Castle Hill), site of Heinrich’s coro- Leipzig 121 km 75 miles quick use. Even a short walk through nation. It’s a short, cobblestoned Munich 514 km 319 miles the city’s narrow streets (wear sturdy climb to the castle courtyard, which shoes due to the omnipresent cobble- Nearest Airports: Hannover and Leipzig rests atop a 75-foot-high sandstone stones) becomes an architectural outcropping. The hilltop is dominat- Rail links: Rail travel from most major cities will require at least one change of primer of half-timbered styles. ed by the Renaissance Castle (once a trains. For example, most streets feature convent residence and now a muse- Walking Tour: Two-hour guided walking th several late Gothic houses with only a um) and the 12 -century Ro- tours are available in English on Tuesdays hint of decorative devices, while the manesque Collegiate Church of St. and Thursdays at 2pm, from May until Û many Renaissance houses are more Servatius, with its three naves and September. 5 ($4) per person. Book through Quedlinburg Tourist Office. intricate, with rows of hexagrams or flat ceiling. Among other rulers, Hei- carved, double-rope helixes thought nrich and his wife, Mathilde, are A book on the affair, Treasure to protect inhabitants against demons buried in the crypt, where visitors Hunt: A New York Times Reporter th and sickness. During this period, the can see 13 -century frescos. Tracks the Quedlinburg Hoard was more upscale homes featured en- The church has two interesting written by William Honan, who closed balconies that jutted into the footnotes in recent history. In 1938, played an important role in locating street, so women could sit and watch recognizing it was where the First the missing pieces. the goings-on. The Latin inscription Reich began, the Nazis tried to make The castle gardens provide a 360- on one reads: “Mind Your Own Busi- it a shrine to the start of their Third degree view of the town below. Path- ness.” (Don’t be surprised to see eld- Reich. SS Commander Heinrich Him- ways wind around the hill, with ter- erly women, elbows propped on pil- mler saw himself as the reincarnation raced houses — once inhabited by lows, watching every passerby.) of the first Heinrich and, at annual castle servants — so close together By the 17th century, bricks filled ceremonies, would rise from the neighbors can practically shake hands the spaces between the timbers in crypt atop a wooden lift dressed as across the street. Space was at a pre- baroque houses, and builders used his ancient namesake. mium, and one house is only six feet brickwork and timbers to create de- Another bizarre tale involves the wide. To the north, the “newer,” me- signs and figures — symbols to fend church’s priceless treasury. Just after dieval part of the city takes typical off illness and increase crop fertility. WWII, U.S. Army Lt. Joe T. Meador form around the marketplace, with Through the early 1800s, styles be- was assigned to guard the treasury church spires poking through a sea of came increasingly ornate and the where it had been hidden in a mine- red-tile rooftops. It’s not difficult to half-timbered style became more shaft. He took his assignment as an make out remnants of the town’s 13th- decoration than construction scheme. opportunity to mail a few of the century fortifications — including Since Quedlinburg is an historical more valuable-looking pieces to his more than a mile of walls and six of work in progress, visitors can see home in Texas. For decades after the the original 25 watchtowers. houses in various stages of restora- war, the items lay hidden in a bank To the south, the view shows tion — or lack thereof. Some fallen vault while Meador toiled in the fam- signs of more recent prosperity. Dur- ily hardware store. But at his death in walls reveal layers of stone, brick and ing the 19th century, Quedlinburg 1980, his brother and sister tried to plaster (mixed with straw, horsehair captured nearly 70 percent of the unload the hugely valuable Samuhel and mud) framed by wooden beams. international market for vegetable Gospel, a 1200-year-old jewel-en- Some walls have come down and plant seeds. By the 1850s, the crusted manuscript printed on gold completely, revealing inner court- wealth translated into expansive vil- parchment. Word of the sale, of yards and farm yards. As early as the las for the seed “barons,” who built course, quickly spread and, after 12th century, farmers brought their their homes atop the filled-in moat of years of lawsuits and diplomatic families and animals to the relative the walled town. Many of the old wrangling, Meador’s heirs were paid safety of the town, and built houses warehouses still stand, converted to nearly $3 million by the German gov- around grazing areas, stables and apartments or offices. ernment. As a result, the items were barns. Today, these structures are returned in 1996. The town’s oldest — and Germa- distinguished by the large gateways Gemütlichkeit 3 May 2002 http://www.gemut.com that allowed for the passage of car- well-deserved break. Daily Rates: Singles Û62 ($53); dou- riages, and by the overhead pulleys v Plan on at least two days to do bles 94 ($81). Free parking, difficult used to lift grain and crops to the top Quedlinburg justice. access for disabled guests. floors. Contact: Hotel Theophano, Markt Despite moving to town, many Accommodations 13/14, D-06484 Quedlinburg, tel +49/ lost stored crops in fires and wars. As 3946 96 30-0, fax +49/3946 96 30-36. Hotel Theophano insurance, each farmer stashed a bag Email: [email protected], web: of seed in one of the honeycomb of The centuries-old Hotel Theopha- www.hoteltheophano.de cubbyholes in the tower of St. Bene- no has an extensive and interesting Rating: QUALITY 16/20, VALUE: 17/20 history — especially in the last 60 dict’s, the market church. That way, Hotel Am Brühl regardless of what might befall the years. Built originally as a trad- Restoration is everywhere in town, the “urban farmers” could ing house in 1668 by a EDITOR’S CHOICE Quedlinburg and Am Brühl is always fall back on the stored seed to wealthy merchant, the ba- roque-style, half-timbered hotel has a good example. The ivy- start planting again the next spring. EDITOR’S been in Reinhard Spilker’s family covered buildings of two CHOICE A walk through town reveals since 1924. Toward the end of World former farms have been turned into a many interesting sights and curiosi- War II, he moved there with his hotel of great charm. ties. The only entrance to the win- grandparents, out of the path of Ber- Arriving guests enter a front dowless medieval treasury is from lin-bound bombing raids. courtyard via a gated driveway. In- inside the Rathaus through a secret side, public rooms have a clean, door leading from the council cham- In 1949, he and his parents fled to wide-open feel enhanced by shiny ber. Unfortunately, the location of the the West, and the socialist govern- terra-cotta floors scattered with Ori- button that opens the door was for- ment forced the grandparents to con- ental rugs. Tall Palladian arched win- gotten generations ago. vert the building into cheap apart- ments. Unable to maintain the struc- dows are set in thick stone walls and If you ask directions, don’t be ture on a small income, they turned it the exposed rough support timbers offended if a resident tells you to go over to the government in 1985. After contrast nicely with the modern light- to Hell. That’s simply the name of an reunification, it was returned to the ing and furnishings. intersection. In medieval times, an family, and Spilker undertook exten- We had hoped for more from the alchemist’s oven belched smoke sive restoration — starting with tear- contemporarily decorated gues- through a hole in his roof. It wasn’t ing down the cheap drywall that had trooms. Though above average in the smoke or fire, but the “devil’s divided the apartments. size they seem a bit vacant, in need of work” being conducted that led to a sofa or a couple of soft chairs to the name. It’s evident the restoration was done with love and care. After all, it’s achieve optimum comfort. Bedside The town’s narrowest alley — a still Spilker’s home; he lives in the reading lights were clever looking tunnel almost — opens into the Schu- rooftop penthouse with his wife, but difficult to read by. hhof, where shoemakers set up shop Gabriele, and three teenage daugh- Though we find Am Brühl an and home in the 16th century. Like the ters. attractive hotel, better use of gues- alley, its houses are tiny. Since interi- troom space and more intelligent or space was at a premium, shutters With views to the marketplace furnishings would move it from were built to open up and down so and Rathaus, the Theophano is also “above average” to the “excellent” that the bottom one would become a one of the most central hotels and category. counter, enabling the shoemaker to guests will often see other visitors sell his wares without customers photographing its beautiful baroque Daily Rates: Singles Û78 -Û88 ($69- crowding inside his house. façade. $77), doubles Û98 -Û135 ($86-$119) Contact: The Schuhhof leads to Quedlin- Named for the Byzantine princess Hotel Am Brühl, Billung- burg’s bright, expansive Marktplatz. who ruled the German empire in the strasse 11, D-06484, Quedlinburg, tel. th The best view of it is from the north- 10 century, Theophano has 20 dou- +49/03946/96180, fax 961 8246, ern end; across the length of the cob- ble rooms and four singles, all appro- email: [email protected], blestone plaza to the Gothic Town priately decorated with antiques and web: www.hotelambruehl.de/ Hall with its Renaissance façade (al- furnishings in a kind of “Laura Ash- Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE: 15/20 ley meets the Renaissance” style. most fully covered by vines and Hotel Zur Goldenen Sonne flowers) and the steeple of St. Bene- Room Number One is spacious and romantic, with a small balcony over- The Goldenen Sonne lies just off dict’s rising behind it. As it has been the marketplace in a 16th century half- for centuries, the marketplace is the looking the inner courtyard. Carved cupids spy on slumberers from each timbered structure. And although its center of commerce, surrounded by baroque architecture is similar and restaurants and hotels, with farmers’ corner of the four-poster bed. Room Number 20 is king-size, gabled and the history as extensive, the hotel markets on Wednesdays and Satur- lacks the familiarity and charm of its days. It’s also the perfect place to on two levels, with superb views to the marketplace and town hall. neighbor, the Theophano. Modern, finish one’s explorations — or take a somewhat sterile, guest rooms have

Gemütlichkeit 4 May 2002 http://www.gemut.com more a sense of renovation than res- Quedlinburg. However, for fast, tory. However, the somewhat sterile toration. Still, with rates about a third cheap eats, head to the Steinbrücke, a setting is more than offset by friendly less than at the Theophano, it offers small street immediately off the service, a limited but superb wine good value. For those who need it, Marktplatz, where a variety of restau- list, and reasonably priced and well- many of the 27 rooms have Internet rants offers pleasant, if not stellar, prepared dishes. access. culinary options. At #7, Olli’s Bistro Guests will find a heavy focus on Daily Rates: Singles Û44 ($38); dou- is a cafeteria complete with trays. meat entrées like pork hock with bles Û67 ($58). Free parking. Choose à la carte from a choice of sauerkraut, lamb cutlets with banana goulash, dumplings, Spätzle, cutlets Contact: Hotel Zur Goldenen Sonne, sauce and raisin-almond rice, and and other entrees and side dishes. Steinweg 11, D-06484 Quedlinburg, duck breast stuffed with pineapple, Plan on spending Û4-8 ($3-7) per tel +49/3946 96 25-0, fax +49/3946/ red cabbage and wild berries. Vege- person. 96 25-30, email: tarians won’t starve, and fish eaters [email protected]., Although Pasta Mia at #23 Stein- will love the salmon with hollandaise web: hotelzurgoldenensonne.de. brücke features more expensive sauce, noodles and asparagus. With- Rating: QUALITY 14/20, VALUE: 15/20 choices, inventive pizzas and pasta out wine, dinner for two will range dishes range from only Û3-5 ($2-4). from Û14-Û22 ($12-$19), lunch is Schlosshotel Zum Markgrafen At #18, Hassler Fisch Schnell somewhat less. In sharp contrast to the medieval Imbiss offers a variety of takeout fish Contact: Gaststätte Ratskeller, Markt- and renaissance structures that domi- creations such as fish sandwiches, kirchhof 1, D-06484 Quedlinburg, tel nate Quedlinburg, the 12-room Schlo- breaded cutlets and pickled fish for +49/3946 2768 sshotel Zum Markgrafen is an art about Û2-Û5 ($2-$4). Rating: QUALITY 13/20, VALUE: 14/20 nouveau palace. Built by a wealthy industrialist Zur Goldenen Sonne Theophano from 1898 to 1904 in neo-Gothic style, Some of the most peaceful dining The setting alone is worth a visit it is breathtaking — though some- in Quedlinburg is on the sunny ter- to the restaurant at the Hotel Theoph- what out of step with what a race of Zur Sonne. Even during cool, ano. Indeed, many guests spend Quedlinburg experience should be. damp weather, a retractable canvas hours in the quiet candlelight with Yes, it has beautiful stucco, carved roof and gas heaters help maintain only fine wine and exotic timber ceilings, elaborate tapestries, comfort. It’s comfortably casual, set cheeses for nourishment. The EDITOR’S chandeliers, extensive gardens, ga- atop small stones cobbled together to setting is sublime in this medi- CHOICE bled guestrooms, and intricate lead- form a mosaic of the sun. A flurry of eval cellar, the rich history captured ed-glass windows, as well as a fitness flowers surrounds an old millstone in in every ancient stone and brick. area, but it doesn’t feel like Quedlin- the center, and vines and roses drape Nooks in this one-time storage area burg. Still, with the marketplace only across wooden trellises. Servers are lend privacy, and flickering candles a a few blocks away, the Quedlinburg young, attentive and friendly. sense of intimacy. (In good weather, dining is also possible under the stars feeling is always nearby. The cuisine is distinctly regional, in the courtyard.) In addition, the hotel lies near the with an emphasis on vegetarian and old town wall, adjacent to a watch fish dishes, like trout with red cab- The menu takes German fare to tower, and the view from the terrace bage and a vegetable-and-cheese exotic levels. Appetizers may include café to the town is stunning, especial- platter with bread. The soups stand salami of venison with olives, baked ly at night. At twice the cost of the out: Oberharzwildgulasch, with tender Münster cheese wrapped in pastry Goldene Sonne, it is a matter of taste, venison pieces sweetened by red with fried apples, or arugula with preference and budget. cabbage; Quedinlinburger bean soup roasted rabbit, cherry tomatoes and pinenuts. Under the category of Daily Rates: Singles from Û88 ($76); topped with watercress; and a rich, “Substantial Starters/Light Main doubles from Û135 ($116). Free park- hearty and savory barley soup with Courses,” the current menu offers ing and welcome cocktail. Black Forest ham and carrots. smoked salmon crepes with sour Contact: Schlosshotel Zum Two can dine well for Û22-29 cream and red caviar, turkey liver Markgrafen, Weingarten 30, D-06484 ($19-25) for lunch, Û28-35 ($24-30) for sautéed with fresh mushrooms in Quedlinburg, tel +49/3946 81 14 40, dinner. balsamic vinegar, and pumpkin risot- fax +49/3946 81 14 44, email: info@ Contact: Hotel “Zur Goldenen to. Larger appetites may want dishes www.schlosshotel-zum- Sonne,” Steinweg 11, D-06484 like roast venison served with savory markgrafen.de, web: Quedlinburg, tel +49/3946 96 25-0. vegetables and potatoes au gratin. www.schlosshotel-zum- Rating: QUALITY 12/20, VALUE: 14/20 Some guests make a special trip just markgrafen.de. for the desserts, like sweet pumpkin Rating: UALITY ALUE Ratskeller Q 17/20, V : 14/20 strudel with vanilla flavored Quedlinburg’s Ratskeller doesn’t Sustenance whipped cream, espresso with home- get high points for ambiance, at least made French praline, and white choc- Those who prefer upscale dining until they dim the lights. Only the olate mousse with elderberry sauce. will find numerous options in vaulted ceilings inject a sense of his-

Gemütlichkeit 5 May 2002 http://www.gemut.com Two persons with light appetites has stood still” is a travel-writing fare, well-prepared with the freshest can enjoy the setting and a pleasant cliche usually used to describe places ingredients. Expect to pay about $30 dinner for Û32-Û40 ($28-40), without where millions have been spent on per person with dessert and wine. beverages, while more complete din- restoration. But in Evolène the phrase Steyr ing satisfaction might cost as much as really applies. This town of 600 prob- Austria Û80 ($69) per couple. ably looks and lives very much today Though it gave its name to Styria, Contact: Hotel Theophano, Markt as it did 50 or 100 years ago. A differ- this Austrian town is actually in the 13/14, D-06484 Quedlinburg, tel +49/ ent dialect is spoken, there are no province of , about a 3946 96 30-0. designer shops or Michelin-starred third of the way from Salzburg to Rating: QUALITY 17/20, VALUE: 18/20 restaurants and a bare minimum of , south of and the east- places sell Evolène mugs and tee- Restaurant Am Brühl west . Your first look at its shirts. picturesque Altstadt, set on a penin- One huge room in an old stable In summer, the weather is warm sula formed by the confluence of the has become the Hotel Am Brühl’s but not oppressive, cooling down at Steyr and Enns rivers, will make you restaurant. There is a high brick and night. In spring and fall, days are cool wonder what took you so long to get beamed ceiling with barrel-roll vaults and nights cold. In winter, of course, here. and the floor is square, polished ter- roofs and streets are piled high with Entrance to the town is through ra-cotta pavers. There are substantial snow. wooden tables and chairs and the an arched stone gate, part of the wall white stucco walls are decorated with Throughout the summer, women that protected the city in medieval interesting art and antiques. It is a wear traditional garb and there are times. Inside, a broad square is lined fine room to be in, though a little enough old characters hanging with well-preserved Gothic and Re- noisy. The menu is mainly traditional around to let you know there’s some- naissance buildings. Further on, the dishes and you won’t go far wrong thing going on here besides tourism. square funnels down to become the with familiar selections such as Kalb- Accommodations & Food town’s alley-size main shopping sleber (calves’ liver) and Geschnetzeltes Evolène’s best accommodations street, the Eisengasse, and eventually (chopped veal in cream sauce), but are at the rustic Hotel Hermitage, passes through another gate and on overall the food doesn’t quite equal where the Queen of Holland once to where the rivers join. the room’s charm. stayed during World War II. Town records go back to 980 Restaurant Am Brühl, Billungstrasse The interior is wood paneled when the Styraburg — now Lamberg 11, D-06484, Quedlinburg, tel. +49/ walls and ceilings, slate entryways, Castle — was built. A fire destroyed 03946/96180, fax 961 8246, email: parquet floors, oriental rugs, stuffed Steyr in 1727, but in the middle of the [email protected], web: birds and game, and plenty of an- 19th century a local lad named Jo- www.hotelambruehl.de/ tique knickknacks. The most pleasant seph Werndl came to the rescue. He Rating: QUALITY 13/20, VALUE: 14/20 space in the house is the inviting liv- began to manufacture guns and Steyr ing room/sun room with its paneled became one of Europe’s main weap- HIDDEN TREASURES walls and ceiling and expanse of win- ons suppliers, an activity that contin- Continued from page 7 dows on three sides. ued through two world wars. (On a more positive note, Werndl and Steyr mer and skiers in winter — but it is a Guestrooms, though in no sense much different breed of Swiss moun- are given credit for erecting Europe’s luxurious, are comfortable and cozy. first electric street lights in 1884.) tain town from the likes of Zermatt Ask for Number 16 under the eaves. and Grindelwald. Werndl’s company eventually be- There are no in-room telephones and came Steyr-Daimler-Puch, a World Among the wooden, weathered, the hotel does not have a restaurant War II arms producer and the town’s brown/black Valasian houses of though raclette and fondue are some- industrial installations were heavily Evolène, you’ll find a simple hotel or times served to guests on winter eve- bombed in 1944. Until 1955, Steyr pension, or perhaps a small chalet to nings. was the border town between the rent. In the daytime you can walk The café-bar of Pension occupied American and Soviet zones. mountain trails that range from easy d’Evolène, an old-fashioned inn with These days the city still makes its to challenging, and in the evenings a few simple rooms to rent, is a hang- living in the iron trade: the Steyr- enjoy hearty mountain food and Val- out for locals and, by all reports, in- Puch company builds motorbikes asian wine alongside grizzled locals cluding our own, has the best food in and there is also a BMW truck assem- at one of the town’s cheery inns. town. bly plant. Evolène is also much less expen- Just off the café is the small, Most sights are within a five- sive than the famed mountain resorts. slightly more formal, dining room. minute walk of the town square and The top hotel in town charges about Cowbells and rustic wood cabinets for information about them use Mich- $80 for its best room, you can rent an adorn the walls. There are green and elin’s Green Guide for Austria or stop apartment for as little as $175 per white tablecloths, cloth napkins and by Steyr’s amiable and efficient tour- week and a small beer is less than $2. candles on each table. ist office which is on the square at The phrase “a village where time The food is mainly plain country Stadtplatz 27. Gemütlichkeit 6 May 2002 http://www.gemut.com Not to be missed in the weeks One of Germany’s largest fortress- Restaurant Krautergarten, with prior to Christmas is the nearby pil- es, the Veste looms above the town, raised-hearth open fireplace and grimage hamlet of Christkindl, fading in and out of the clouds. It was beamed ceilings, has been a favorite in where you’ll find a pretty church and in this triple-walled citadel that Mar- the region for several decades. Most of a very busy post office. This is where tin Luther holed up for five months in the vegetables, herbs and spices used Austrian children send their Christ- 1530, awaiting his day in court before by the Krautergarten’s kitchen are mas letters and all are answered by the Augsburg Imperial Diet. You can grown in its private garden. the Christkindl post office. You may tour his apartment and there is a de- Perhaps a more upscale overnight wish to mail a card from here as the cent collection of paintings including choice — though we must caution stamps and postmark are somewhat some by Rembrandt and Albrecht that we have no first-hand experience prized. There is also a massive, won- Dürer. But to us the Veste’s best at- with it — is the Goldene Traube, derfully intricate, ‘Rube Goldberg’- traction is its Kunstammlungen, a part of the Romantic Hotels & Res- style, mechanical Nativity scene on museum especially designed for visi- taurants combine. Its restaurant rates display. Completed just before the tors whose eyes have glazed over a red ‘menu’ symbol in the 2002 war, it is the work of a single local from too many religious paintings by Michelin Red Guide for Germany. hobbyist who took some 40 years to Cranach the Elder or Holbein the build it — in his living room. Younger. It is filled with things of Hotels/Restaurant Data Where to Stay interest to non-scholars; items such as Hotel Hermitage, CH-1983 Evolène, Our “Editor’s Choice” Steyr head- antique wedding carriages, Germa- tel. +41/027/2831232, fax 283 3212. quarters is the hospitable and charm- ny’s largest display of ancient armor Singles 75 to 90 Sfr. ($34-$41), dou- ing Hotel Mader, on the town square. and weapons, and a cabinet filled with bles 110 to 130 Sfr. ($69-$75) some 20,000 medals and coins. Pension d’Evolène, CH-1983, tel. The comfortable, spacious guest- +41/027/83 11 51. Daily Rates: Sin- rooms have white painted walls, light Downtown, on the Schlossplatz, is gles 38 Sfr. ($24), doubles 76 Sfr. wood ceilings and substantial dark Ehrenburg Castle, where the chain ($48). Seven day packages with din- wood furniture. They come equipped was pulled on Europe’s first flush ner and breakfast are 340 Sfr. ($213) with cable TV, direct-dial telephone, toilet. Ehrenburg was also the boy- minibar and a sparkling, well-lit hood home of Prince Albert who mar- Hotel Mader, Stadtplatz 36, A-4400 bathroom. ried England’s Queen Victoria and Steyr, tel. +43/07252 / 53 358, fax 53 358 fathered her nine children. This potent 6, email: [email protected], web: Breakfast is downstairs in the café fellow’s likeness is found not only on www.mader.at. Singles Û65 to Û74 ($57- where you’ll be joined by local farm- millions of cans of cheap pipe tobacco, $65), doubles Û96 to Û110 ($84-$97) ers and shoppers dropping by for but Victoria erected a statue of him in Romantik Hotel␣Goldene Traube, coffee or a morning snack. Coburg’s Marktplatz. It is in this part Am Victoriabrunnen 2, D-96450, Coburg of town, by the way, where you are Coburg, tel.␣+49/09561/8760, fax Germany mostly likely to encounter street ven- 876222, email: goldene- In the “old days,” before reunifi- dors selling the delicious Coburger [email protected]. Singles Û Û Û cation, Coburg was stuck in a corner bratwurst, grilled on the spot and 74 to 87 ($65-$77), doubles 102 Û of West Germany, surrounded on served on a roll. to 135 ($90-$119) three sides by East Germany and, as a Though PBS’s Antiques Road Show Hotel Blankenburg, Rosenauer- result, tourism suffered. Except for a doesn’t want them on the premises, strasse 30, Coburg, D-96450, tel. +49/ few adventurous souls headed for many Americans are interested in 09561/64 40, fax 644 199, email: Berlin via the potholed communist- Hummel figurines. Even if you have [email protected]. Û Û maintained Autobahn, it wasn’t a no use for them, a visit to the factory, Singles 51 to 97 ($45-$85), doubles Û Û place where one stopped on the way six kilometers away in Rödental — 70 to 125 ($62-$110) to anywhere else. where Sister Maria Innocentia Hum- Things have picked up in the last mel was born — is worth an hour’s Readers’ Forum visit. There is a short film presentation 10 years but, despite the town’s his- Auf Schönburg Controversy torical importance, its interesting followed by a brief tour where visitors can observe the handmade production In a letter I wrote a couple of buildings and charming setting, months ago I tried to give your read- American tourists are still rather process. The figures are for sale, but the prices seem no better than else- ers a sense of what they might expect scarce. Enough so that it qualifies as a at some upscale Schloss hotels I’d not “Hidden Treasure.” where in Germany. There may be a larger selection, however. seen mentioned before in Gemütlich- Coburg may be physically in Ba- keit. But apparently I struck a raw varia but with the grape vines of Places to Stay nerve with your subscriber, Rip Rice, Franken growing only a few kilome- The serviceable Hotel Blanken- and I’d like to respond. ters away, and its massive Veste burg, which is about a 10-minute walk from the Marktplatz, is now I’ve stayed at Burghotel Auf dubbed the “Franconian Crown,” Schönburg on three different trips, Coburg’s heart and culture are solid- affiliated with the Best Western hotel marketing group. Its invitingly rustic beginning in 1984, and with about 25 ly in Franconia. trips into Germany, I’m not exactly a Gemütlichkeit 7 May 2002 http://www.gemut.com neophyte in German hostelries. I Granted, on our first stay here the confess to being a bit perplexed by bathroom would have held 12 people, We Recommend Mr. Rice’s reaction. My comments but this one was a squeeze for two. This listing of good value, mid-priced about this hotel were as follows: • Did not offer English-language TV. hotels in popular destination cities is a new • A long uphill climb from the Gemütlichkeit feature intended for quick Given it’s location and popularity reference. We’d like to know if you find it parking lot (probably about two with English-speaking tourists, the useful. Additional hotels and links to web- blocks, and a more difficult walk lack of BBC/CNN is somewhat un- sites of these hotels can be found in the than any I’ve encountered anywhere usual for an upscale hotel 40 miles Archives section of our website at in Germany). from Frankfurt. We didn’t have En- www.gemut.com. The required subscriber My point was and is that on the glish TV at Sababurg or Wasserburg user name and password for access this assumption that your readership is Anholt either, but didn’t expect it in month can be found on page 2 herein. The hotels are arranged in price order, higher to not largely 20-45 year-olds, that some those much more remote locations lower. might find it more than they had that probably don’t have the regular Berlin bargained for. In fact as we first constituency of Brits/Americans Auf Hotel Art Nouveau, Leibnizstr. 59, tel. +49/030/327 7440, fax 327 walked up from our car this trip, we Schönburg does. We don’t go to Ger- 744 40, email [email protected] Hotel Domus, Uhlandstrasse 49, Germany D-10719, tel. +49/030/ passed some elderly people who many to watch American TV, but 882041, fax 882 0410, email: [email protected] were obviously struggling with what getting the news is rather nice, and Bern Hotel Innere Enge, Engestrasse 54, CH-3012, tel. +41/031/309 is a lengthy, uphill walk. probably important to some. I might 6111, fax 309 6112, email: [email protected] also mention that we were at Auf Hotel Kreuz, Zeughausgasse 41, CH-3000, tel. +41/031/329 9595, • No elevator and steep stairs. fax 329 95 96, email: [email protected] Schönburg only a week after Septem- Lausanne This is all true. There may be an ber 11, and while I understand some Hostellerie du Débarcardère, 7 chemin du Cret, Saint Sulpice, CH- elevator in the new section, but that German, we yearned for news in 102, tel. +41/021/691 5747, fax 691 5079, email: [email protected] (not in town) is not where we stayed. It’s my per- English, which was not available. Hotel Agora, Av. du Rond-Point 9, CH-1006, Tel. +41/021/617 ception that the “older area,” where 1211, fax 616 2605, email: [email protected] we’ve stayed all three times, is where • I said the hotel had a good res- Lucerne taurant, a traditional buffet breakfast Hotel Wilden Mann, Bahnhofstrasse 30, CH-6000 Luzern, tel. +41/ the more interesting rooms are; they 041/2101666, fax 2101629, email: [email protected] are definitely the most expensive. No and, given it’s touristy Rhine valley Hotel Cascada, Bundesplatz 18, CH-6003 Lucerne, tel: +41/041/226 location, offered reasonable value. 80 88, fax 226 80 00, Email: [email protected] one offered to help with our luggage, Munich and while I was fully capable of han- These are hardly negative com- Hotel Asam, Josephspitalstrasse 3, tel. +49/089/230 9700, fax 230 970 97, email: [email protected]. dling it myself, the fact remains that ments. Hotel Kraft, Schillerstr. 49, tel. +49/089/594823-24 fax 5503856, many would find the stairs (with or Bottom line is I think I fairly por- email [email protected] Rothenburg ob der Tauber without luggage) a bit trying. trayed Auf Schönburg; it’s an o.k. Reichs-Küchenmeister, Kirchplatz 8, Rothenburg o.d. Tauber, hotel, but if the difficult walk from Germany D-91541, tel. +49/09861/97 00, fax 97 04 09, email: • In size, lighting and bathing [email protected] arrangements, bathroom was far the parking lot, no English TV, and Salzburg below what one expects in a hotel in at least some expensive rooms with Hotel Struber, Nonntaler Hauptstrasse 35, Austria A-5020 tel. +43/ 0662/843 728, fax 843 728 8, email: [email protected] this price range. marginal bathroom facilities, poses a Hotel Jedermann, Rupertgasse 25, Austria A-5020, tel. +43/0662/ problem for someone, it’s not where 873241-0, fax 873241-9, email: [email protected] Key Websites for the Traveler they should stay. It is hardly a “bad” Vienna • www.gemut.com Gateway site for travelers to Hotel Römischer Kaiser, Annagasse 16, A-1010, tel +43/01/512 77 hotel, or we wouldn’t have stayed 51 0, fax 512 77 51 13, email: [email protected]. Germanic Europe, including car rental, rail passes, Altstadt Vienna, Kirchengasse 41, tel. +43/01/526 3399-0, fax 523 hotel bookings, traveler feedback, travel tips and past there three times. We’ll probably go 4901, email: [email protected], web: www.altstadt.at issues (free access to back issues for subscribers; see again, but we don’t have a love affair Pension Aviano, Marco-D’Aviano-Gasse 1, tel. +43/01/512 8330, log-on info on page 2). with it like Mr. Rice. fax 512 8330 6, email: [email protected] Zürich • www.viamichelin.com The Michelin database of BILL BOHNHOFF Hotel Florhof, Florhofgasse 4, Switzerland CH-8001, tel. 41/01/261 hotels and restaurants plus great interactive trip 4470, fax 261 4611, email: [email protected] planning tools. SANTA FE, NM Hotel Arlette, Stampfenbachstrasse 26, Switzerland CH-8001, tel. • www.travelgearnow.com Guidebooks, maps, travel +41/01/25 20 032, fax 25 20 932 (Ed. Note: Normally we would have Frankfurt Airport accessories, name-brand luggage, all at 10% off for ended this exchange last month at Mr. Steigenberger Esprix Hotel Frankfurt Airport, CargoCity Süd, D- subscribers. 60549 , tel. +49/069/69 70 99, fax 69 70 94 44, email: frankfurt@esprix- • www.mapblast.com Map and automobile trip Rice’s rebuttal of Mr. Bohnhoff’s first hotels.de planning. Locates routes and distances. letter. Auf Schönburg, however, is an Hotel Birkenhof, von-Eiff-Str 37, Hanau-Steinheim, D-63456, tel. +49/06181/648 80, fax 64 88 39, email: [email protected] (25- • bahn.hafas.de/bin/query.exe/en German rail. Train extremely popular hotel among Ameri- minute drive from airport) schedules throughout Europe, not just Germany. can tourists and we have received many Hotel Dreiech, Frankfurter Str. 49, Langen , D-63225, tel. +49/ • www.sbb.ch/index_e.htm Swiss and European rail letters and comments about it in the last 06103/91 50, fax 52 030 (15-minute drive from airport) schedules. Munich Airport 15 years — most, but not all, have been Kempinski Hotel Airport, Terminalstrasse/Mitte 20, D-85356 • www.ski-europe.com Top web resource for skiers Munich, tel. +49/089/9782-0, fax 97822610, [email protected] with much data on Alpine resorts. positive.) Hotel Hoyacker Hof, Freisinger Landstrasse 9a, D-85748 Garching • www.myswitzerland.com Website of Switzerland’s b. München, tel. +49/089/326 9900, fax 320 7243, email: national tourist authority. [email protected] Germanic Travel Alert Zürich Airport • www.germany-tourism.de Germany’s national Free email supplement to Mövenpick Zürich Airport, Walter-Mittelholzerstrasse 8, CH- tourist authority. Gemütlichkeit. Register online at 8152␣Glattbrugg, tel. +41/01/808 88 88, fax 808 88 77, email: • www.anto.com Austria’s national tourist authority. [email protected] www.gemut.com or send your email Hotel Fly Away, Marktgasse 19, Zürich-Kloten, Switzerland CH- • http://www.hhog.de Website for an alliance of address to [email protected] 8302, tel. +41/01/804 4455, fax 804 44 50, email: reservation@hotel- historic German cities. flyaway.ch Gemütlichkeit 8 May 2002