• Zürich Hotels/Restaurants • '95 Michelin Red Guides • Austrian Rentals GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, , Switzerland & the New Europe

THIS ISSUE: • Europe Travel Briefing

DEAR APARTMENT/CHALET SUBSCRIBER RENTAL IN AUSTRIA February 26, 1995 John Herbert, our Canadian expert on European vacation rentals, reports this month on Austria, a The Best Travel Guide country he says offers some of the best accommodations values on the Continent. To me, the travel year is offi- cially underway when the new n September, 1994, Wherever there are tourists verify that any unit you Michelin Red Guides hit the book- Gemütlichkeit re- in Austria there will be a are considering has a sep- stores. My copies of the 1995 Ger- I ported on apart- selection of “in-house” arate living room. Only many and Switzerland guides, ment rentals in apartments. Towns, villag- about one-third to one- though they arrived just two weeks Switzerland. While there es and rural areas have the half do. The remainder ago, have already lost their tight are similarities between most. Major cities such as usually have a sitting area newness. I've been at them. Each Austrian and Swiss rentals, and Innsbruck have in the corner of the dining year I look up every hotel I've ever there are two major differ- only a limited and compar- room or bedroom. Both stayed in to see how Michelin rates ences. In Austria prices are atively pricey selection. one and two-bedroom it. I never throw out a Red Guide lower and availability units are widely available. and have them from 1973, includ- greater. Austrian self- “In-home” apartments ing all 17 German guides, 1979 catering units constitute are usually on the upper Although we have through 1995. I like the heft and feel one of the best accommo- floor of the family home. made reservations in ad- of any Red Guide but particularly dations values in Europe. Don’t expect the glitz of a vance, we prefer to see an the Germany book. Switzerland, Florida or Hawaii high-rise apartment before renting only in its second year and a much Like Switzerland, Aus- condo. They will be clean, it. No two are alike. If smaller country, is a little skinny. I tria has three types of rent- fairly modern and fully- you stay away from July also like the prayerbook-style red als: those located in pri- equipped (sheets, towels, and August, and from ski page marker ribbon. A "bible" should vate homes; small four to toilet paper, etc.). Always look like a Bible. A few years ago eight unit apartment Continued on page 3… Michelin changed the color of the buildings; and the large, cover to a brighter red — which at multi-storied condo build- first I didn't like but now prefer — ings usually found in ski ZÜRICH'S MID-PRICED and went to lighter weight paper. At resorts. The most, by far, 1,015 pages, the 1995 guide has are in the first category. HOTELS & RESTAURANTS Continued on page 2… Associate editor, Bruce Woelfel, surveys Zürich's moderate to inexpensively priced hotels and restaurants. Swissair Price Reductions ürich has plenty of good hotels and a few that are Swissair, voted Best Airline of 1994 by the readers of “modestly-priced.” The trick is find one that is Condé Nast Traveler magazine, has extended through the end Z both. Accommodations in first-class hotels are to of 1995 its reduced fare program for Gemütlichkeit subscrib- be had for $100 to $150 single and $175 to $250 ers. Complete details have not yet been finalized but it is double. Even in these, rooms are relatively small and lack expected the reductions will be as before: the grand appointments available in luxury class hotels • $50 off any roundtrip sale fare. which start around $250 and run to $500 or more. Most • $100 off any roundtrip economy class fare. lower priced hotels are across the Limmat — on the "right bank" — a five to 10-minute walk from the rail station. • $400 off any roundtrip business class fare. • $600 off any roundtrip first class fare. Here is a look at some of these hotels, arranged from To obtain fares and the current price reductions, call the most expensive to least expensive. Unless otherwise main Swissair reservation number, 800-221-4750, and ask the noted, rates listed here include buffet breakfast. reservationist to access “G-star, reference QL2JLQ.” Hotel Florhof Please be aware that you must book and purchase your Only a few blocks from the heart of EDITOR’S ticket directly with Swissair to obtain the price reduction. Zürich, the Florhof looks like one of those clas- CHOICE For more info call Gemütlichkeit at 800-521-6722. sic village inns one sees in the Alps. Indeed, the Florhof Continued on page 4… February, 1995 you approach the city you are faced with the one step below Michelin star status and I have DEAR SUBSCRIBER problem of finding your hotel in an unfamiliar town. never been disappointed.) Under Auggen in the Continued from page 1 The Fürstenhof’s listing provides the map coordi- main listing you find the Zur Krone where a com- nearly 100 more pages than the 1990 guide but is nates and tells you that the letter “v” indicates the plete meal ranges from 39 to 66 DM ($26 to $44). hotel’s location on the in-book map. You immedi- a half-inch thinner. The town of Münstertal, 65 km (40 miles) from ately locate it on the Rathausplatz about 100 meters Basel, also looks promising. On the locator map it There are also Red Guides for France, Great — according to the map scale — from the Iller is highlighted in yellow with a Michelin star and also Britain, the Benelux countries, Ireland, Italy, Spain/ river. The map even shows the direction of the has a red marker. These indicate a starred restau- Portugal, Portugal (separate Portugal guide for the town’s one-way streets and you have no trouble rant and a “particularly pleasant or restful hotel.” first time in 1995), Paris, London and the Europe driving directly to the hotel. Turning to the listings you find the Romantik-Hotel Main Cities guide. For the uninitiated, Red Guides Spielweg, which has 42 rooms, a one-star restau- cover hotels and restaurants. Michelin Green Had you discovered that all the hotels in rant and has been awarded three red roof peaks. Guides provide information on sight-seeing. Kempten were booked you could have referred to your Die Generalkarte #25 map to find a nearby This is likely to be very special hotel with an As anyone who has been a Gemütlichkeit town. You might have seen that Wiggensbach is outstanding restaurant. For its starred restaurants, subscriber for longer than 24 hours is well aware, about 10 kilometers (6 miles) east of Kempten. By Michelin lists the kitchen’s specialities (in Ger- we consider these books the European traveler’s looking up Wiggensbach in Michelin you would man). You see one of them is Münstertaler single most useful reference. They are essential have discovered that it is a town of 3,800 and has Rehbäckle mit Waldpilzen, venison with forest for the auto traveler but they are also a “must- a listing for the 24-room Hotel Goldenes Kreuz. mushrooms. Complete meals range from about carry” for train travelers. Since Michelin rates this hotel as “comfortable” (it $39 to $70. Rooms at the hotel go from 150 DM lists no hotels it does not recommend) you can be ($100) for the cheapest single to 380 DM ($253) for Red Guides are highly publicized for awarding confident of decent accommodations very close to the best double. stars — one, two or three — to a tiny percentage Kempten, your original destination. of expensive, mostly French, restaurants. No You can see how the guide allows one to travel doubt many guides are sold to persons interested Another Michelin feature which I find particu- according to whim, with no set itinerary or advance only in starred restaurants, but elite eateries are larly useful, since I am always looking for special hotel reservations. This works in each country for only a tiny part of the value and scope of these hotels and restaurants, are the 10 pages of locator which there is a Red Guide. Unfortunately, there is books. Let’s use the German guide as an example. maps in the front of the book. Throughout its no Red Guide for Austria, though the German guide It rates and provides a mass of information on guides, Michelin indicates special hotels and res- has a listing for and the Main Cities list more than 10,000 hotels and restaurants. A typical taurants by printing their symbols in red. The cities Vienna and Salzburg. Frommer’s or Fodor’s guide for Germany lists in which these special places are located are shown about 1,000 establishments. on these locator maps. Let’s say you have just Continued on page 8… crossed the border into Germany from Basel, Swit- The Red Guides' greatest strength is in the CORRECTION zerland, and are driving north on the . It country side. A Frommer’s guide contains listings is mid-afternoon and you feel like splurging; maybe Last month our Prague story for only about 100 principal German cities. Michelin, a very good meal or an especially nice hotel. You contained an inaccurate and mislead- on the other hand, makes hotel and restaurant turn to locator map #8 and immediately see more ing statement. In the story Prague recommendations in over 3,000 German cities, than a dozen choices within a 45-minute drive from Travel Advisory, under the heading towns and villages. your current location in the southwestern tip of Information Sources in Prague, is an There are several unique Red Guide features Germany. The town of Auggen, for example, is, underlined sentence which reads that are invaluable to the auto traveler. Particularly according to the guide, only 31 kilometers (19 "...don't go to Prague with a hotel useful are the maps that accompany the listing for miles) from Basel and is underlined in blue on the reservation." nearly 150 German cities. Let’s say you are driving locator map. This is the symbol for a restaurant That sentence should have read into Kempten in the Allgäu, a town of about 61,000. with, as Michelin puts it, “less elaborate, moder- "...don't go to Prague without a hotel Before you check out of your hotel this morning ately priced menus that offer good value for money reservation." We regret this error. Be you use Michelin to phone Kempten’s Hotel and serve carefully prepared meals, often of re- sure to have a confirmed hotel reser- Fürstenhof for a reservation for tonight. Now as gional cooking.” (These establishments are just vation prior to visiting Prague.

Vol. 9, No. 2 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY February, 1995 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Category Scale Hotel Rating Criteria Unacceptable 0 - 3 People/Service 30% Editor & Publisher: Robert H. Bestor, Jr. Adequate 4 - 7 Location/Setting 15% Associate Editors: Elizabeth Schiller, Bruce Woelfel Average 8 - 11 Guestrooms 30% Contributing Editors: C. Fischer, R. Holliday Above Average 12 - 15 Public rooms 5% Design & Composition: Paul T. Merschdorf Excellent 16 - 20 Facilities/Restaurant 20% Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Subscription Dept:. Andy Bestor, K. Steffans Special Designations Restaurant Criteria Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published monthly by UpCountry Publish- G By virtue of location, decor, Food 65% ing, 2892 Chronicle Avenue, Hayward, CA 94542. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- special charm, warmth of Service 20% 6722 or 510/538-0628. FAX: 510/582-8296. Subscriptions are $67 per year management, or combina- Atmosphere 15% for 12 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information in this tion thereof, an especially publication, the publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. pleasant establishment. Second-class postage paid in Hayward, CA. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: $ Offers significant value. Gemütlichkeit, 2892 Chronicle Ave., Hayward, CA 94542

Gemütlichkeit 2 February, 1995 trips. And, instead of staying in the AS ($29). AUSTRIA RENTALS major cities, we prefer to be 10 or 20 Continued from page 1 miles away, where prices are much Innsbruck Area - The best choice lower and driving easier. With this in here is the village of Zirl, nine miles resorts in winter, there should be no mind, here are some regional recom- west of Innsbruck. Zirl itself is not trouble with availability. The tourist mendations, starting in western Aus- particularly interesting or pictur- office in every town or village (the tria and moving eastward. esque, but Innsbruck's altstadt is only Verkehrsamt or Verkehrsverein) will a 15-minute drive. The ski center of have a list of local apartments (ferien- Vorarlberg - There are two places Seefeld is just to the north and wohnungen) often with a map showing in this popular mountain area. The Garmisch-Partenkirchen is 30 miles the location of each. This list will first is St. Anton in Montafon (don’t away. The highly-regarded Otztal usually describe in some detail what confuse with the famous ski resort of and Stubaital valleys are within a you will find in each apartment. St. Anton am Arlberg 25 miles to the day's trip. Zirl has only five apart- Some are in English, many are not. east). This small village of less than ments listed in its 1994 brochure, with This list is important because many 100 houses is just three miles south of prices in the 450 to 530 AS ($43-$51) homes with rental units do not dis- the east-west Autobahn that runs range. Tourismusverband Zirl Dorf- play a ferienwohnungen sign. though the state. In addition to the platz 33, A-6170 Zirl, phone 0-52-38- When checking in it’s helpful 22-35. to know a few German words to Zimmer Frei in Austria Another choice in the Inns- make your wishes known to the bruck region is Neustift, locat- proprietor. If you do not, how- One step down in price and comfort are the ed in the beautiful Stubaital ever, the owner's teenage son or zimmer frei (room free or available), equivalent to valley, a 20 to 25-minute drive daughter will invariably be able English bed and breakfasts. They are more south of Innsbruck. Neustift is to help. English is widely taught common than apartments and are often listed in not as well situated as Zirl, but in the Austrian schools. the same guide. Because there are so many, you is much more a tourist center, usually don’t need a list - just drive around until A major advantage to off- as is obvious from the 174 you spot a sign. Off-season prices are usually in season travel (May, June and apartments for rent in the the 150 to 250 AS per person per night range. In September, October are best) is town. Most have separate liv- July and August prices rise slightly, usually no the willingness of owners to rent ing rooms and average about more than 10%. Always ask if your room has a for periods less than a week. 500 to 700 AS ($48-$67). Verke- private bathroom. About half do. This is especially true when one hrsburo, A-6167 Neustift im Stubaital, phone 05-226-22-28. is prepared to rent immediately One drawback to zimmers is the reluctance of and the apartment is vacant. owners to take guests for one night. They prefer The Zillertal Alps - The Because of the cleaning charge stays of at least two or three nights. If you offer Austrians have been able to that is usually made in addition to skip breakfast (with appropriate price reduc- keep this skiing and hiking to the regular rental charge, you tions) you may overcome their reluctance. area mostly to themselves. It’s will always pay slightly more per in central Tyrol, about forty day when renting for less than a miles east of Innsbruck. While the week. There are fewer days over marvelous scenery of the Montafon Zillertal has some pleasant towns and which to apportion this fee which usu- Valley, Switzerland is only 25 minutes villages, it is the four lovely valleys ally amounts to about 300 or 400 AS away and Germany 45 minutes away. that spread southward from May- ($29-$38). Most owners include other The 12 rentals in the village’s 1994 rhofen that are the chief attraction. charges (state tax, heating, etc.) in the apartment guide (Verkehrsamt, A- The principle towns of Mayrhofen quoted rental price, but always ask. 6771 St. Anton im Montafon, phone and Zell am Ziller have a good selec- 05552-67191) are moderately priced While a one-bedroom apartment tion of accommodations, but one may starting at 350 AS ($34). Typical is the in the off-season, including all extras, do better in any of the five villages apartment in the home of Klaudia can range from 350 to 900 AS ($34- between them: Laubichl, Hollenzen, Flatz. There are fine views from the $87) per day, depending on size, qual- Eckartau, Burgstall and Muhlbach. balcony across the valley, but no sepa- ity and location, most such apart- Every second house seems to have a rate living room — 380 AS ($37). ments cost between 500 and 700 AS Zimmer Frei or a Ferienwohnungen ($48-$67). All prices listed in this A second choice, in the northwest sign. In its list of 119 apartments, the article are for one-bedroom off-season corner of Vorarlberg, is Albersch- Mayrhofen hotel guide includes apartments. Unless one is renting a wende, a village of 2,800 people. The many in these nearby villages. Tour- lakeside apartment, high-season rates setting isn’t as dramatic as St. Anton, ismusverband Mayrhofen, Postfach will rise about 100 to 150 AS ($10-$15) but this typical Austrian village in the 21, A-6290 Mayrhofen, phone 0-52-85- per day. A two-bedroom, one-bath- hills above Bregenz, has a fine loca- 23-05. Prices are high in the Zillertal, room apartment will be 20% to 40% tion if you wish to visit Germany and around 500 to 750 AS ($48-$72) per higher. Switzerland, both just a few miles unit. away. It has 21 rental apartments When travelling in Austria we Salzburg area - The village of with some of the lowest prices in look for an apartment in a town or choice near Salzburg is Strobl located western Austria, starting around 300 village that can act as a base for day on the Wolfgangsee 25 miles to the Continued on page 4…

Gemütlichkeit 3 February, 1995 apartments. We would recommend AUSTRIA RENTALS the Kamptal region, a wine-growing ZÜRICH HOTELS Continued from page 3 area northwest of Vienna. An inex- Continued from page 1 pensive choice is the village of Schon- southeast of Salzburg. While Strobl is feels distinctively, authentically Swiss berg am Kamp. Only seven apart- a pleasant enough lakeside resort, it’s as compared to sterile high-rise hotels ments are listed in the regional tourist surrounded by some of Austria’s where one might as well be in Miami. guide available from Tourismusver- most beautiful areas: the Salzkammer- band Kamptal, 3571 Gars am Kamp, gut lake district to the north, Salzburg Another considerable virtue is the phone 02-985-26-80. Vienna is 40 to the west, the resort of Bad Ischl to hotel's proximity to the Kunsthaus, miles to the east, the most scenic por- the east and Hallstatt and the with its premier collection of 20th tion of the Danube between Krems Dachstein Mountains to the south. Century painting and sculpture. and Melk is just to the south, and the Strobl and a couple of next door whole region is dotted with old Inside the Florhof, we discovered villages have a total of 67 apartments, churches and castles. Prices are about public rooms full of beautiful Swiss most in the 500 to 600 AS ($48-$58) as low as you will find in Austria. antiques and we enjoyed playing our range. Fremdenverkehrsverband, favorite card game by the 18th Centu- Strobl am Wolfgangsee, A-5350 We would particularly recom- ry fireplace, where the staff brought mend the house of Johann and Mari- Strobl, phone 06-137-255. us coffee and cookies on a silver tray. anne Hager, Mollands 13, A-3562 Klagenfurt - The southeast por- Schonberg am Kamp, phone 0-27-33- In contrast to the old-world ambi- tion of Austria, around Klagenfurt, is 283. The apartment itself is nothing ence of the public rooms, guest rooms popular with European tourists special but the house is surrounded were remodeled in 1994 with all the because of its lakes, mountains and by vineyards, and the Hager’s have bells and whistles. Our room also mild climate. The best known resorts their own wine producing facilities. had big dormer windows, a classic of Veldon and Portschach are on the We were given a tour and also had a Swiss bed, and a gleaming new bath- Wöthersee. Easy day trips are south chance to sample the local product — room. to Slovenia or north to St. Viet with a very friendly stop. Perhaps the it’s marvelous town square and reason we found so many friendly This intimate, quiet hotel is owned Hochosterwitz, a superb old fortress. Austrian families, was the fact that by Brigitte and Beat Schiesser, who The best accommodation values we were almost always the first have a cordial, hands-on management are in Klopeiner See region, 15 miles North Americans to stay with them. style. No detail of our comfort was east of Klagenfurt. This small area It seemed to bring out the best in an overlooked. has a huge selection of apartments already friendly country. The little Florhof is most appealing. that are heavily booked in July and Austrian National Tourist Offices (For information on the Florhof's August. A June or September visit can be found in New York, 500 5th cuisine see page 6) will yield lower prices and a wider Ave. #2009, New York NY 10110, selection. Many apartments are phone 212-944-6880; Chicago, 500 N. Address: Hotel Florhof, Florhofgasse available only from June to Septem- Michigan Ave. #1950, Chicago IL 4, CH-8001 Zürich ber. 60611, phone 312-644-8029; Los Phone: 10/2614470 The center of the Klopeiner See Angeles, 11601 Wilshire Blvd. #2480, Fax: 01/2614611 Los Angeles CA 90025, phone 310- area is St. Kanzian. You can pick up Location: 10-minute walk or five- 477-3332. These offices have apart- the 94-page accommodations guide at minute tram ride from the main rail- ment lists for a limited number of the tourist office, Tourismusverband road station. Near University and towns and can provide addresses of Klopeiner See, Klopeinerstrasse 5, A- Museum of Fine Art local tourist offices in Austria. 9122 St. Kanzian, phone 0-42-39-22-22. Rooms: 10 singles, 23 doubles It lists over 300 apartments and If you are willing to pay the extra Proprietors: Brigitte & Beat Schiesser bungalows, with a large selection cost of using a rental agency special- around 500 AS ($48). One home that Prices: Singles 195-240 Sfr. ($156- izing in apartments, villas and homes, $172), doubles 290-320 Sfr. ($232-$256) accepts visitors the year round and by far the best choice is Pego, Facilities: Outdoor terrace has some of the lowest rates in the Sageweg 1, A-6700 Blundez, phone Credit Cards: All area is that of Hans and Sigrid Riepl 55-52-65-6-66, fax 55-52-63-8-01. They in the small farm village of Brenndorf will mail you, free, a 140-page cata- Disabled: Two steps up to lobby about two miles north of St. Kanzian. logue in English that lists in some Closed: Never (Brenndorf 13, A-9122, St. Kanzian). detail, over 300 apartments and Parking: Five spaces in courtyard, 10 They have two apartments (no living chalets. There is a color photo of each Sfr., 10 free street spaces, 6 p.m.-9 a.m. room). The Riepl’s went out of their unit. Prices are generally reasonable Rating: EXCELLENT 16/20 G way to make us feel welcome during but there is a 270 AS booking fee. Our our stay a couple of years ago, includ- only rental with them went smoothly. Hotel Glockenhof ing an afternoon snack of cake and A well-maintained hotel in an 80- For more upscale accommoda- schnapps with the family. year old art-deco building centrally tions contact Interhome Inc., 124 located two blocks from Bahnhof- Vienna area - Vienna is expensive Little Falls Rd., Fairfield NJ 07004, strasse. Its public facilities include a and doesn’t have a wide selection of phone 201-882-6864, fax 201-808-1742.

Gemütlichkeit 4 February, 1995 large and formally decorated restau- Rooms: Five singles, 25 doubles single ($92) and 170 Sfr. double rant with outdoor terrace for multi- Proprietor: E. Schlotter family ($136). Lower priced rooms face the course meals and a small but pleasant Prices: Single 125-185 Sfr. ($100-148), noisier side of hotel. tavern with lower prices and simpler double 165-250 Sfr. ($132-$200) Address: Hotel Arc Royal, Leonhard- fare. Facilities: Restaurant and bar strasse 6, CH-8001 Zürich We found our average-size room a Credit Cards: All Phone: 01/2616710 bit cramped after a stay in more spa- Disabled: Good access, no special Fax: 01/2514780 cious accommodations at Lucerne's rooms Location: On a pedestrian street, Hotel Montana. But it was well venti- Parking: Public garage 5 minutes north side of Limmat, l block from the lated with three windows, tastefully walk river decorated and well equipped, includ- Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 13/20 Rooms: 22 single, 36 double ing a spacious bathroom with large Proprietor: Sylvia Steiger tub. The buffet breakfast, laid out in Hotel Rütli This small, alcohol-free hotel with Prices: Single 120-170 Sfr. ($96-$136), the large room which serves as a res- double 160-250 Sfr. ($128-$200) taurant during the day, was plentiful. no restaurant is modestly priced by Zürich standards, and its post-World Meals: Breakfast only New management has been in War II building was renovated seven Facilities: Breakfast room place since June, 1994. The staff is years ago. Guest rooms, some of Credit Cards: All friendly, service was prompt and which are generous in size, have sim- Disabled Access: Ground floor rooms efficient and the concierge knowl- ple decor but are pleasant and com- available edgeable and helpful. fortable. Number 461 is a large single Closed: 23 December to 2 January Address: Hotel Glockenhof, Sihl- in beige and blue with a couch, and Parking: Own garage, 17 Sfr. per strasse 31, CH-8023 Zürich bathroom with tub. Number 315 is a night Phone: 01/2115650 spacious, quiet double with sofa and Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 12/20 chairs, shower and lots of floor space. Fax: 01/2115660 Upper floor rooms look out on the Hotel Bristol Location: Central Zürich, just off Bah- rooftops of this densely packed sec- The Bristol's 1900 art-deco build- nhofstrasse, 10 minutes walk from the tion of the city. ing, also on the Limmat's right bank, railway station was renovated six years ago. Its aver- Address: Hotel Rütli, Zähringer- Rooms: 57 singles, 51 doubles age-sized rooms are light and cheery strasse 43, CH-8001 Zürich Proprietor: Josef P. Schmidtpeter, with white walls and blond wood Director Phone: 01/24515426 furniture. Most have showers though Prices: Singles 178-196 Sfr. ($142- Fax: 01/2612153 a few singles have tubs. Rooms $156), doubles 260-290 Sfr. ($208-$232) Location: On the right bank in which face the street are moderately Facilities: Sauna, two restaurants, Zürich's older section eight minutes noisy when the heavy, double-paned outdoor food service on terrace in walk from the rail station windows are open. summer Rooms: 44 singles, 18 doubles Credit Cards: All Proprietor: Ann Raftery, Director Though classified as an alcohol- free building (breakfast room but no Disabled Access: Four specially Prices: Singles 130-180 Sfr. ($104- restaurant), there is no limitation on equipped rooms $144), doubles 185-260 Sfr. ($148-$208) smoking and guests are permitted to Closed: Never Meals: Breakfast only consume alcoholic beverages in their Parking: Five minutes walk to public Facilities: Breakfast room rooms. garage Credit Cards: All Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 12/20 Disabled Access: Some rooms with Address: Hotel Bristol, Stampfenb- extra wide doors achstrasse 34, CH-8035 Zürich Hotel Arlette Closed: Never Phone: 01/2618400 The Arlette is small, comfortable Parking: Public garage, five minutes Fax: 01/2511951 and modern. Renovated in 1987, its walk, 25 Sfr. per night Location: In Zürich's old section, five average-sized rooms, simply decorat- Rating: AVERAGE 11/20 minutes walk from the station ed in yellow and green, are enhanced Rooms: 11 singles, 44 doubles by colorful oil paintings. Convenienc- Hotel Arc Royal Proprietor: Martin Hammerli es include VCRs as well as color TV. Another modern, well-appointed Prices: Singles 110-130 Sfr. ($88-$104), The small restaurant and cozy bar are hotel. Rooms are light and airy, with doubles 130-185 Sfr. ($104-$148) available from 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. light oak furniture and white walls. Meals: Breakfast only Address: Hotel Arlette, Stampfenb- Number 403 is a quiet, average-sized Facilities: Breakfast room achstrasse 26, CH-8001 Zürich single with tub and shower and Num- Credit Cards: All ber 406, facing a pedestrian street, has Phone: 01/2520032 Disabled Access: No special facilities a double bed and shower and is avail- Location: On the right bank of the Closed: Never able either as a single or double with Limmat River, three blocks from main Parking: Garage five minutes walk, rail station a special weekend rate of 115 Sfr. Continued on page 6...

Gemütlichkeit 5 February, 1995 Fax: 01/4631400 Hotel Biber ZÜRICH Location: Top of Uto Kulm moun- The new, low-priced “City Back- Continued from page 5 tain, 30 minutes train ride from packer,” centrally located 10 minutes 20 Sfr. per night Zürich walk from the station on Limmatquai, Rooms: 21 doubles has been designed for younger travel- Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE: 13/20 Proprietor: Mr. Fry ers. Accommodations include dormi- Hotel Scheuble Prices: Singles 100-150 Sfr. ($80), tories and some private rooms. Un- Though the Scheuble's guestrooms doubles 160-250 Sfr. ($128-$200) like a hostel, there is no curfew and are rather ordinary, it is a good choice Meals: All available residents may remain during the day. for couples who dislike the traditional Facilities: Outdoor park and terrace City Backpacker/Hotel Biber, European double bed arrangement of with fanciful animal sculpture Schweizerhofgasse 5, CH-8001 two singles placed together under one Credit Cards: All Zürich, phone 01/251/9015, fax: 01/ headboard. About half the double Disabled Access: Poor 251/9024. Dormitory rooms 28 Sfr. rooms contain queen-sized beds. This Closed: Never ($23), rooms with shared baths 55 Sfr. is another alcohol free hotel with no Parking: Utikon rail station garage. ($44) to 88 Sfr. ($68). restaurant, thought smoking and alco- Rating: AVERAGE 10/20 hol are allowed in guestrooms. Restaurants Hotel Krone Address: Hotel Scheuble, Mühlegasse Restaurant Florhof The modest Krone is small and 17, CH-8001 Zürich Another good reason to EDITOR’S conveniently located on the Limmat. Phone: 01/2518795 choose the Florhof as a CHOICE Rooms, many without private bath Fax: 01/2617678 Zürich headquarters is its excellent or shower, are rather dull and sparse- Location: Near the river, 5-10 minutes restaurant. In contrast to its daytime ly furnished, in some cases only a from the rail station informality, at dinner time the restau- chair and a place to hang clothes, but Rooms: Five singles, 64 doubles rant takes on a more gracious and are clean and some have nice views romantic air. Service at all times is Proprietor: Herr Meier of the river. Prices: Singles 100-140 Sfr. ($80-$112), friendly and prompt and the food doubles 140-180 Sfr. ($112-$144) Number 38, a single without pri- first-rate. vate facilities, faces the river and Meals: Breakfast only One recent dinner began with a rents for 68 Sfr. ($54). Number 24, Facilities: Breakfast room fresh assortment of lettuce bathed in also without private bath or shower Credit Cards: All an exquisite herb and lemon dressing. and also with river view, is a triple Disabled Access: No special rooms Pumpkin soup had a delicate cream for 138 Sfr. ($110). Number 50, an Parking: Public garage five minutes base and came garnished with spin- average-sized, corner double room away, 30-40 Sfr. per night, free street ach, gnocci and fresh herbs. An with private bath, also has a river spaces available free 7 p.m.-9 a.m. unusual combination plate of salmon, view and rents for 134 Sfr. ($107). Rating: AVERAGE 12/20 white lake fish and sweetbreads was The hotel has a small, reasonably- served with a sauce of fresh morels priced restaurant. Hotel Uto-Kulm on a heart-shaped pastry shell. With This remote, mountain-top hotel is Address: Hotel-Restaurant Krone, local wine, the bill for two came to 60 hard to classify. It is accessible only Limmatquai 88, CH-8001 Zürich SF ($48). by rail, a half-hour's ride from Zürich's Phone: 01/2514217 Highlights of a second dinner main station (6.4 Sfr./$5). Upon arriv- Fax: 01/2514763 al one must trek 10 minutes up a steep included an herbed soup with gnocci, Location: Old town, right bank, eight pathway to reach the hotel's rustic venison filet with a dark, very rich minutes from the station three-story building. Persons with onion and mushroom sauce and heavy luggage and those not desiring Rooms: 14 singles, 12 doubles delicately cooked dover sole meu- a good workout prior to check-in may Proprietor: Yves Schoch nière with rice. prefer to call from the station and be Prices: Single without shower or bath Florhof Restaurant, Florhof Hotel, met by the hotel’s four wheel drive 68 Sfr. ($54), doubles without shower Florhofgasse 4, CH-8001 Zürich, vehicle. or bath 114 Sfr. ($91), doubles with phone 01/2614470. Moderate-Expen- bath 134 Sfr. ($107), triples without sive. The somewhat drab guestrooms, bath or shower 138 Sfr. ($110) decorated in shades of brown, are Facilities: Restaurant St. Gotthard Café otherwise comfortable and well ap- EDITOR’S This colorful and ele- CHOICE pointed; some with large outside Credit Cards: All gant restaurant, just a block from porches and many have fine views of Closed: Never the train station, is a longtime favor- the city. Parking: Free street parking until 7 ite. When severely jet-lagged at the a.m., public garage 25 Sfr. Address: Hotel-Restaurant Uto-Kulm, beginning of a trip or jaded with Rating: AVERAGE: 10/20 Berggasthaus, CH-8138 Uetliberg travel at the end, it has always raised Phone: 01/4636676 our spirits: bright chandeliers grace

Gemütlichkeit 6 February, 1995 the ceiling; marble walls are hung Brasserie Lipp, Urania Strasse, dent Traveler, a joint offering with with huge, brightly-colored prints near Bahnhofstrasse, phone 01/ Lufthansa of competitively priced air- and the crowd at the bar and tables is 2111155. Moderate to expensive. inclusive German vacation packages. always animated and exuberant . Glogge Egg, The package, for instance, Often there is live piano and violin is priced at $798 per person, double music. On a recent wintertime visit to A very small and friendly bar/ occupancy, from the East Coast and this wonderful lounge and bistro, a restaurant with plain Swiss food. includes roundtrip air on Lufthansa, large Christmas tree added its season- Quick service, generous portions in six nights hotel in Munich, a city al presence and color to the festive an informal wood interior, with wood sight-seeing tour, a Munich welcome scene. The ambience contributed benches and plain wooden tables. A card good for free public transporta- greatly to our pleasure. meal for two consisting of stewed tion and local discounts, a convertible chicken in a mushroom cream sauce flight bag/backpack and an inflatable A standout among several reason- with spätzle and a second entree of ably-priced menu items is paprika neck pillow. For departure from white sausage with dark onion gravy Lufthansa's other gateways the add- chicken breast with spätzle, priced at and rösti came to 34 SF ($27), includ- 21.50 Sfr. ($17). on airfare is $90 from Atlanta; $117 ing two glasses of wine. from Chicago; $169 from Dallas/Ft. Hotel-Restaurant St. Gotthard, Glogge Egg, Snack Bar and Pub, Worth, Houston and Miami and $240 Bahnhofstrasse 87, phone 01/ Glockenhof Hotel, Sihlstrasse 31, from Los Angeles and San Francisco. 2115500. Moderate-Expensive. - phone 01/2115650. Inexpensive. The $798 price is for low-season travel and accommodations at the Brunnen- Zeughauskeller EDITOR’S Concertino CHOICE hof, a "tourist class" hotel just outside The interior of this For those weary of fondue and the Ring near Sendlinger Tor. There Zürich institution, in a 500-year-old rich sauces, the Concertino is a conve- are four hotels from which to choose building on swanky Bahnhofstrasse, nient place for a light lunch of Ameri- and other price variations dependent is reminiscent of a Munich beer hall, can-style food. One can order a upon when one travels. The package especially when it comes to the quick hamburger, a club sandwich or a price can increase to as much as service, shared tables, ample steins of rump steak, each for 15.5 Sfr ($13). $1,218 per person from the East Coast Hürlimann beer vom fass and reason- for those who wish to travel in the Concertino Cafe-Restaurant-Piano able prices. The cuisine is Swiss farm- high season and stay at the "deluxe" Bar, The Central Plaza Hotel, Central style and excellent. The rösti is as Hotel Sheraton. In addition, the sin- 1, phone 01/2515555. Moderate. good as we've found anywhere. A gle rate will be higher. cold sausage salad plate was 14.80 Sfr. ($12), veal sausage with German-style The Berlin package ranges from hot potato salad was 12.80 Sfr. ($10). EUROPE $838 to $1,528 and there is a three- night Frankfurt offer for from $688 to Here you will rub shoulders with TRAVEL $1,088. rich Zürich bankers and raggedy DER also offers an Oktoberfest young travelers living out of back- BRIEFING package that includes airfare, six packs. Not to be missed. LTU Offers Low Fare nights in the "first-class" Eden Hotel Restaurant Zeughauskeller, LTU, the "other" German Airline, Wolff, two dinners, city tour, excur- Bahnhofstrasse 28 by Paradeplatz, has announced a round trip fare from sions to the Royal Castles and Ober- Zürich, phone: 01/2112690. No credit San Francisco to Düsseldorf of $488 ammergau, excursions to Salzburg for cards. Moderate. for departures between May 3 and a guided city tour and to Berchtes- June 28. The roundtrip from Tampa gaden, the flight bag/backpack and Brasserie Lipp for May 4-June 22 departures is $439. the inflatable neck pillow for $1678 The frantic Lipp, with its polished The San Francisco flight operates on per person double occupancy. The black walls, large mirrors, white tile Wednesdays, the Tampa flight oper- add-on airfares from other gateways floors, well-dressed patrons, quality ates Thursdays. West Coast travelers are the same as previously men- food and expert waiters going at will not find a lower fare this sum- tioned. breakneck pace is an extension of the mer. Book through a travel agent or The DER Christmas Market pro- famous Paris bistro of the same name. phone 800-521-6722. gram headquarters in Munich. The Portions are large and can be divided. Germany Packages elements of this package are similar to Typical of the fare is the cassoulet with DER Tours, a German travel com- the Oktoberfest deal expect that there white beans, chicken, duck, pork, pany, also operates in the U.S. are also excursions to the Christmas sausage and topped with crisp bread Gemütlichkeit has regularly reported on Markets of Rothenburg ob der Taub- crumbs. It, a huge mixed salad and a the company's product line because so er, Nürnberg and Salzburg. Prices glass of Fendant each, came to 50 SF much of it is of interest to the traveler range from $658 to $1,298 per person ($40) for two. to Germany and Europe. For example, double occupancy. This is another "action" spot, great DER has just announced, via a bro- The brochure contains dozens of for people watching. chure entitled Germany for All Seasons other offerings from river cruises to and subtitled Programs for the Indepen- Continued on page 8…

Gemütlichkeit 7 February, 1995 miles) southwest of Magdeburg, is DEAR SUB tors to Vienna can purchase the Parkhotel Unter den Linden and EUROPE BRIEFING a new product called the Continued from page 2 Weimar has the Gasthaus zum Continued from page 7 Vienna Card. It is sold at weissen Schwan. All have similar hotels and Vienna tourist In addition to the unique fea- prices to the Goldenen Reiter. tours of eastern Germany. tures for use while traveling, Michelin Call 800-521-6722 for a free information offices. With it is an essential bookshelf reference. • The nightmare that has caused copy. you get: For example, extensive information celebrated Parisian chefs to fall on their is supplied for each of the 3,000- boning knives has been visited upon Balair/CTA Charters • Unlimited travel for plus cities and towns including: Aubergine of Munich. It has lost one of Called the "leisure line 72 hours on all forms of postal code, telephone area code, its stars and now has but two. of Swissair" Balair/CTA public transit in the city — coordinates on various Michelin subways, streetcars, buses Switzerland Red Guide will again operate charter maps, population, altitude, distance flights to Zürich from sever- and commuter trains. to nearby and important towns, and • Even when one takes into ac- al U.S. and Canada gate- the address, phone and fax of the count that Switzerland is a much • Discounts or reduced local tourist office. The guide also smaller country than Germany, mak- ways in 1995. price admissions for a period ing for a thinner Red Guide, hotels of four days to leading muse- lists principal sight-seeing attrac- From May 3 to October tions with their Michelin star rat- charging less than $100 for their best ums, city tours and sights 27, Wednesday and Friday ings; sight-seeing attractions in the double room, are far more scarce. such as the Schönbrunn Pal- there will be flights be- outskirts with their distance and di- Our estimate is that Michelin lists a ace and the Hofburg. rection from the town center; num- little over 150 such hotels, most of tween Miami and Zürich; ber of ski lifts; number of cable cars; which are restaurants with a few rooms Friday only flights between • Discounted tickets to number of cross-country ski runs; to rent, mit zim as the guide says. Orlando and Zürich are events at the Konzerthaus whether or not the town has a golf • In this, the second year of the scheduled for May 5 and, during the summer, to course and a lot more. Swiss Red Guide (last year’s book through October 27; San concerts at the City Hall Francisco-Zürich flights will and Schönbrunn. Another nice feature, especially sold over 100,000 copies), Michelin has added several new features: operate Mondays and given the dollar’s recent slippage, is • Discounts at certain Wednesdays from May 1 to the use of a symbol to indicate res- ✓ A listing of ski resorts with stores, a free glass of wine October 27; Anchorage- taurants which serve complete meals tourist information phone number, at participating Heurigen Zürich flights are on for less than 25 DM ($17). In con- minimum and maximum altitude, and restaurants, and a com- Wednesdays only from sidering these inexpensive restau- number of lifts, lift connections with plimentary slice of cake at rants it is important to remember May 31 to September 6; neighboring resorts and the avail- participating pastry shops that Michelin lists no establishments Calgary-Zürich flights will ability of ice rinks and indoor swim- and coffeehouses. it does not recommend. ming pools. be Mondays, Wednesdays Here are a few observations ✓ A list of holidays in each and Saturdays from May 1 Worth the money if only based on my first look at the 1995 Swiss canton. to October 30 and a Satur- for the unlimited travel. day only flight between Swiss and German Red Guides: ✓ A calendar of the main re- Austria Changes VAT Refund Vancouver B.C. and Zürich gional events. Because Austria is now German Red Guide will operate May 20 to Oc- ✓ The symbol of a crossed-out a member of the European • Though we didn’t count them tober 21. all, it appears that there are at least automobile for towns and sights that Union (EU), the procedure 4,000 hotels whose highest price do not allow automobiles. One of the best airfare for obtaining VAT refunds for a double room is $100 or less. A • The country’s only three-star bargains to Europe is Bal- has changed. The required substantial number of those are un- restaurant remains Girardet in air/CTA's Relax Class export certification must be der $80. Crissier near Lausanne. There are a (Business Class amenities). done only at the last point • Eastern Germany has its first handful of two stars, mostly in the This year roundtrip Relax of departure within the EU. starred restaurant outside of Berlin. French-speaking part. Class prices are $1,346 from For example, if one returns to the U. S. via Germany It is the Erholung, at Rissweg 39, in • Here’s what looks like a hot tip. Florida, $1526 from San the Weisser Hirsch section of In Thyon-Les Collons (canton of Francisco and $1,630 from and England, British cus- Dresden. Valais) near Sion, is La Cambuse, a Anchorage. toms would have to certify hotel to which Michelin gives one red export. Austrian customs • Another Michelin first is its Nonchangeable, nonre- recognition of restaurants in east- roof peak and a red rocking chair will stamp refund forms fundable, high-season (June/ ern Germany which “serve carefully designating a “very quiet or quiet, only when non-EU resi- prepared meals, often of regional secluded hotel.” The listing also notes July/August) L-Class dents leave Austria for non- cooking.” In Schwerin, 89 km (55 a particularly pleasant view of the Val roundtrip fares are $538 from EU destinations. miles) southwest of Rostock, it’s d’Hérens. The highest price double Florida, $618 from San Fran- The refund is 13% for the Zum Goldenen Reiter serving room is 140 Sfr. ($112), amazing for cisco and $764 from Anchor- complete meals from 34 to 55 DM a “red” hotel. age. May/September/Octo- most goods and about 6.5% ($23-$36). In Binz, on the far north- ber fares are slightly lower. for art objects, collector's I have heard people object to the items and books. The ern island of Rügen, is the Hotel price of Red Guides — Germany is Book by calling 800-322-5247. Poseiden. The Laubenhöhe is in minimum purchase re- $25.95, Switzerland $23.95 — but, Vienna Card a Good Deal Weinböhla near Meissen. In Görlitz, in fact, they are a terrific value. At quirement is 1,000 AS Beginning in February near the Polish border, is the Gutshof twice the price I would consider them ($100) per store, including Hedicke. In Halberstadt, 57 km (38 well worth the money. — RHB 1995, for 180 AS ($18), visi- tax.

Gemütlichkeit 8 February, 1995