Confronting Ivan Tokin: ORDER DELIVERY TO the Shame of I do not YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 [email protected]

Nationalism have time - ISSN 1820-8339 1 after Mladic for lies BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 Verdict

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Issue No. 241 Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday.

SERBIA'S page 10 ‘INTERNAL hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W

DIALOGUE’ ON June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

KOSOVO: FARCE page 5 OR BREAK- conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party THROUGH? E

While most people pay scant heed to the Serbian President’s call for a Friday • June 13 2008 national dialogue on Kosovo, other THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight

stakeholders have equally little BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. faith in the process or its outcome. T

Milan RADONJIC dependence, few people in Serbia have much faith in the dialogue, or think it hey just repeat the will deliver a solution. word ‘Kosovo’, over and Some NGOs have praised the initia- over again. Obviously, tive as a welcome step towards a pos- “Tthe decision has been sible breakthrough in decades of dis- made someplace else. We will not get putes between Serbia and its former to decide about anything in the matter,” province. However, most see the idea of says Ivan, a third-year law student in “dialogue” as a farce. Belgrade, talking about President Alek- Opposition politicians, Kosovo Serbs sandar Vucic’s call for a national “inter- and some activists claim Serbian poli- nal dialogue” on the subject of Kosovo. tics are now so authoritarian that genu- While Belgrade is expected to deliver ine dialogue has become impossible. its official standpoint early in 2018, at about the same time as Kosovo cel- ebrates the tenth anniversary of its in- Continued on pages 2 and 3

Photo: Beta

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Serbia's ‘Internal Dialogue’ on Kosovo: Farce or Breakthrough?

Dusan Janjic, the director of the Forum for Multiethnic Relations. Photo: Media Centre Belgrade

“For months, Vucic has invited us to NGOS, ACADEMICS: LITTLE lem, I see it as a real breakthrough,” she tion, says real dialogue must be based need to hear this, as there is a gap be- this dialogue without saying anything PRAISE, OR FAITH said. on equality, “having all the information tween public and private discourse about his own position,” Tadic noted. “It is very important for Serbia today about the issue at hand” – both things about Kosovo,” she said. “This should have happened before Aleksandra Joksimovic, director of to step forward into the future, and next she believes are lacking. Political Sciences Professor Nebojsa the [2013] Brussels Agreement [with Ko- the Center for Foreign Policy, says the year will be crucial for its long-term po- Pavicevic stresses that dialogue Vladisavljevic thinks real public dis- sovo] was signed. Now it is just about im- way the process has been presented, as sitioning in the world. In that respect, must include all interested subjects, cussion is not possible when the ruling plementation of what is already agreed, involving “facing up to reality”, suggests having the political will to solve the Ko- not just the majority, and it also has to party – as he says – sabotages free and or giving up on everything, which would a genuine intention is to get the job done. sovo knot is of vital importance.” be public. fair political competition, misuses pub- in essence mean the end of Serbia’s Eu- “If this dialogue is a process that will However, Borka Pavicevic founder of “Instead of scarce news reports, we lic resources for political purposes, and ropean integration,” he added. give us a solution for the Kosovo prob- the Center for Cultural Decontamina- need to have live broadcasts. People keeps a tight hold over the media.

Bosko Obradovic, leader of opposition party Dveri, stands in front of his party’s supporters in an event in Novi Sad. Photo: Beta

he idea of a dialogue was hot topic, among the Kosovo Serbs, it is rights of the remaining Serbs in Kosovo “Anyone who is hoping that they launched, they say, to give not. while about 35 per cent said they would are the ones who will heal this soci- a stamp of legitimacy to a Only a few students in the northern back a solution that enhanced regional ety through dialogue is in a serious il- decision already made. Serbian half of the divided Kosovo stability but does not involve Serbian lusion.” Where opinions vary is town of Mitrovica had ever heard about recognition of Kosovo’s independence. Jankovic insists that Serbia’s current onT what that decision is: finally to rec- the initiative, when BIRN asked them Less then ten per cent outright sup- leadership lives politically off gener- ognize Kosovo’s independence, or, to for their views. port recognition of Kosovo independ- ating strife within society and with reject that idea forever and the chances In Belgrade, Miroslav, who works at ence or partition. Serbia’s neighbours, noting that while When you ask of closer cooperation with the EU. the city’s Bajloni market, feels he has Nenad Todorovic, a theatre director Vucic invites calls to dialogue, his pro- Vucic announced his plan in July, in nothing to add to what mysterious oth- in Belgrade, says there is no consensus government tabloids spread toxic and someone ‘What an article for the daily newspaper Blic, ers have “arranged” already. among the political elites either about abusive stories about Kosovo Albani- where he wrote that the Serbian na- “Everything has already been ar- Kosovo, although no one wishes to ad- ans. should be done tion had to “stop burying its head in the ranged ... [and] Vucic does what he is mit this. Borko Stefanovic, former political di- with Kosovo?’ sand” on Kosovo and start “an internal told,” he said. “It seems to me that this dialogue rector in Serbia’s Foreign Ministry and dialogue” about likely solutions. Srdjan Bogosavljevic, director of the is only simulated. As for internal dia- now leader of the non-parliamentary on the street, “We must try to be realistic, not lose Strategic Marketing polling agency, told logue, one man is enough,” Todorovic group Serbian Left, also says the gov- or give away what we have, but not ex- BIRN that many Serbs suspect Kosovo remarked. ernment is not open to different opin- most of them pect to receive what we lost long ago,” is a done deal, even if they don’t yet ions. Vucic said in the article on July 24, re- know the details. However, Kosovo can OPPOSITION CLAIMS “Public discourse is so polluted that will say the story ferring obliquely to Serbia’s loss of con- still get people excited, he noted. TRUE DIALOGUE NO no self-respecting individual will take trol over the former province that pro- “When you ask someone ‘What LONGER EXISTS part in it,” said Stefanovic, who was Ser- is finished. But claimed independence in 2008. should be done with Kosovo?’ on the bia’s chief negotiator with the Kosovo In September, he declared the first street, most of them will say the story Opposition parties have also at- Albanians in Brussels in 2011. when something phase of this dialogue over. In October, is finished. But when something impor- tacked the call for dialogue, not always Right-wing nationalistic opposition important the authorities stated they had opened tant happens about it, it still skyrockets because they oppose the idea but be- parties meanwhile oppose the idea of a second chapter. up the ladder of priorities,” Bogosavlje- cause they deny that real freedom of dialogue out of principle. happens about it, While the participants in and results vic observed. speech exists in today’s Serbia.. Bosko Obradovic, leader of the far- of the first phase remain unknown, the A survey about the future status of “Unfortunately, a culture of dialogue right Dveri party and an MP in Serbia’s it still skyrockets second phase has meant forming a Kosovo, conducted by the Belgrade is not a part of our reality. Instead, we parliament, says talks about Kosovo are working group tasked with supporting Center for Security Policy in February, are living in times of explicit political a farce, as Vucic is only seeking an alibi up the ladder of the authorities in monitoring and pro- showed only that society remains very violence,” Sasa Jankovic, leader of the for the "final betrayal of Kosovo and gressing the dialogue on Kosovo. divided on the topic. Free Citizens Movement [Pokret Slo- Serbian national interest." priorities. The groups have organized a few About a quarter of the respondents bodnih Gradjana], PSG, said. “If this dialogue had any other pur- round tables so far, the first one with said they believed Kosovo would be or It is pointless and impossible to take pose, the intellectual elite would par- legal experts. remain an independent country. An- a genuine part in a “dialogue” under ticipate in it, instead of Progressive other 20 per cent still believed it would such circumstances, he added. Party cronies and the fake opposition,” MANY FEEL REAL DECISION one day again be part of Serbia. “Dialogue is not what happens when he told BIRN. WAS ALREADY MADE Almost the same amount, 19 per cent, a bully puts his arm around the victim Serbia’s former President, Boris predicted that Kosovo would end up while a police car passes by and says, Tadic, meanwhile, sees the idea about Few ordinary Serbs have taken split between Albania and Serbia. The ‘why don't you just talk it over?’ dialogue as a way of Vucic sharing re- much interest in the President’s initia- largest number, 28 per cent, were unde- “It is not possible to have real discus- sponsibility for the “normalization” of tive, however, feeling that the real deci- cided. sion and consequently realistic and relations with Pristina, which the EU Srdjan Bogosavljevic sions have already been made. About 32 per cent of voters for Vucic’s sustainable solutions with the current is demanding as the price of Serbia’s director of the Strategic Even in the one community where own Progressive Party said they would so-called political elite, which was made further progress towards EU member- Marketing polling agency the subject might be expected to be a support any solution that protects the and defined by conflicts,” he continued. ship. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE Belgrade Winter Warm-up A Belgrade

next to the Zvezdara Municipality. As winter really From December 1 until January 1, 2018, various plays and stories of old will Hanukkah - Celebrating the kicks in, Belgrade be performed, including Serbian fairy tales and others by the Grim Brothers. warms up for The fair will include stalls selling old New Year's with Serbian handicrafts, as well as a small Jewish Festival of Light puppet theatre. a full program of CHRISTMAS VILLAGE better wins. Rolling a nun (the letter n) activities for the AT ST. SAVA CATHEDRAL Every year lands the spinner the whole pot. But it's the miraculous story behind young and not- A new addition to the Belgrade Win- a small but Hanukkah that gives the festival its sig- ter program, the Christmas village will nificance. so-young through be installed next to the Sava Cathedral. passionate In 168 BCE, Israel was controlled by December and Opening December 4, you'll have until the Seleucid ruler Antiochus IV, who January 28 to go. community vandalised the Holy Temple and would beyond. not allow Jews to keep practicing their CHILDREN'S PHILHARMONIC comes together in traditions. "He said, ‘I don't have any- CONCERT AT SAVA CENTAR thing against you, I don't want to kill Belgrade for the you, I don't want to destroy your life. The Children's Philharmonic tradi- Just forget about your faith, about your Siri SOLLIE tionally organises the New Year´s gala eight-day holiday traditions, about your history,'" Rabbi concert, Winter Music Magic, every Yehoshua says. he city of Belgrade has so year in December, and this year is no to rekindle their His wife Miri explains further, "the many activities as part of its exception. On Sunday, December 17 at main goal was to kill the spirituality of "Belgrade Winter" program, 7pm, the 10th Jubilee concert, "The Ten spirituality and the Jewish people and wipe out Juda- Tthe party doesn't have to end Magnificent", comes to the Sava Centar, ism." when New Year's Eve has come and one of the biggest halls of its kind in Eu- foster Jewish But, with a small, devout militia, the gone. Starting December 1 and running rope. Jews defeated Antiochus's larger army. until January 31, 2018, Belgrade city au- Intended for fans of classical music heritage. They took back the temple and Israel thorities promise a winter program "as of all generations, the concert will pre- on the 25th of the Jewish month Kislev. The Republic Square transforms into "Open Heart Square" at 6pm, December 2. Photo: Flickr/Tijana Danilovic never before". sent the Children's Philharmonic's hits. This date marks the start of Hanukkah, Belgrade Insight has gathered the Next to the most popular classics like being closed, is once again open for ea- 3:30pm and from 8:30pm do 10:30pm. ing December 25, free concerts will be which on the Gregorian calendar this key events and activities for the month Strauss, Offenbach, Beethoven and ger ice-skaters. Ticket are 200 dinars [about 1,5 euros] held at the Republic Square for 3 days. Alexis TRAUSSI year is December 12. of December and how to celebrate New Bach, there will also be music from the Construction of the 800-square me- on Thursdays and 300 dinars [about There will be something for everyone, Later, as the tradition developed, Year's in Belgrade. scores of Star Wars, Frozen, Indiana tre ice rink on Ada Ciganlija started in 2 euros] the rest of the weekend. Skate including various hip-hop bands, DJs his is something Rabbis focused on the story of relight- Jones, Pirates of the Caribbean, Marry mid-November and Belgrade residents rental is not included. and pop acts. unique we brought ing the temple's menorah after defeat- BELGRADE Poppins, as well as domestic pop hits will be able to enter for free from Satur- On December 29, the party moves to Serbia: the light ing Antiochus's army. In the tale, the CHRISTMAS MARKET and traditional songs, all conducted by day, December 16. It will be open every SANTA'S to the Sava river promenade, where of Hanukkah to the Jews found only one remaining oil can Ljubisa Jovanovic. This year's "spell" day from 10am to midnight until mid- CHRISTMAS TRAIN bands Ortodoks Kelts and Nicim Izaz- street," Rabbi Yeho- after the temple was reclaimed. "There Republic Square transforms into will be cast by opera singer Katarina Jo- February. van will perform. shua"T Kaminetzy says proudly. And was enough oil for one day, but the can- "Open Heart Square" at 6pm, December vanovic, which the organisers promise A special program for children is be- A classic children's Christmas train On December 30, Zana, Van Gog he means it literally too. Each year, to dles stayed lit for eight days and eight 2, as the Belgrade Christmas Market offi- to be "a true musical treat". ing planned at Ada this winter, includ- ride will leave the main station in Bel- and Zeljko Samardzic will be play- celebrate the holiday, the Kaminetzys nights. This is the big miracle and this cially opens. The square will be decked Every year the Children's Philhar- ing free skating schools, ice hockey and grade on Saturday December 16 at ing in front of the Serbian Parliament put up a large traditional Jewish can- is why we celebrate Hanukkah for eight out with small wooden houses present- monic presents new soloists, young children's shows. noon. The trip offers a tour to Zemun building, but for the main celebration delabrum in front of the Chabad Serbia days," says the Rabbi. ing various local crafts as just one part musicians and winners of numerous Next to the Ada Ciganlija rink, author- and back, and a special on-board visit on December 31, Turbo-folk star Aca building on Kneza Milosa street for eve- Last year, 500 people joined the of the market open until the end of Jan- Serbian and international awards; and ities have also announced that skaters by Santa Claus himself, with gifts for the Lukas, as well as rock bands Riblja ryone to see. "When people see the big Rabbi and his family at the Chabad to uary next year. this year you will have the opportunity can return to Nikola Pasic Square, with youngest. The organisers will also an- Corba and Balkanika will be the head- menorah, they ask what it is," he says, light the first candle of Hanukkah. After Open Heart Square will put on a to see the first generation of soloists the rink being installed mid-December, nounce various activities for children liners. laughing. inviting a band to play traditional Ha- range of winter activities including now studying at prestigious academies as in previous years. Mayor Mali also on the train. If you are more into classical music, That's just one of the questions the nukkah music outside, the celebrations concerts and a small children's carnival all over the world. announced on November 28 that other Train company Srbija Voz says the the Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra international Jewish Emissary Chabad continued inside when it got too cold. with merry-go-rounds, as well as stalls Winter Music Magic is organised by outdoor ice-skating rinks will be set ride to Zemun and back will last about will perform their New Year's concert, has to answer. Sitting next to his wife, "We want Hanukkah to bring our selling souvenirs, New Year's decora- Eventim and tickets range from 700 to up near the Museum of Modern Art at an hour and ten minutes. Super Nova, on December 28 and 29 Miri, at the local branch of an interna- light, a Jewish light to the world, and to tions, toys and much more. The Christ- 2000 dinars [6 – 17 euros]. Usce and in Tasmajdan Park. The price of the ticket, which in- at 8pm in Kolarac. tional orthodox Jewish movement share it with all the people in the world mas fairground will be a great place If you are more of an indoor skater, cludes Santa's gifts, is 800 dinars [about This year's theme is Hollywood called Chabad-Lubavitch, they discuss, so that everyone can take something to get a drink, with various food and INDOOR AND you can go to the "Pionir" ice hall, next 7 euros], while those accompanying the super heroes from blockbusters like over coffee with kosher milk, why the from it," Rabbi Yehoshua says. sweets also on offer. OUTDOOR ICE-SKATING to the Hala Pionir park at Carlija Caplina kids will only have to pay 199 dinars Superman, Batman, Spiderman. The two moved to Belgrade. This symbolism also extends into the street. [about 1,5 euros]. concerts will be conducted by con- "We came to Serbia to help the Ser- work the family does for the Belgrade THE FAIRY TALE SQUARE The city of Belgrade has a lot to offer Throughout the 2017/2018 winter, ductor and show man, Alan Bjelinski. bian people. To bring them closer to Jewish community. both indoor and outdoor skating enthu- the hall will be open to the public on NEW YEAR'S CONCERTS Ticket are already on sale at the their sources, their roots, their faith; "What we are doing here is trying to "Trg Bajki", the Fairy Tale Square, will siasts. The newcomer this year is the Thursdays and Fridays from 8:30pm venue but they are also available on- to remember the Jewish people and do our best to keep this light shining so take place in front of the Vuk Stefanovic rink at Ada Ciganlija, located right next to 10:30pm. During weekends it opens The 2018 New Year's celebration is line, with prices ranging from 600 to where they belong and who they are," that it will be bigger and that it will last Karadzic cultural centre and theatre, to "Stone Henge", which, after 5 years of from 11am-12:30pm, from 2pm to scheduled to go for a full 7 days. Start- 1000 dinars [from 5-9 euros]. the Rabbi explains. for eight days, eight years, and I don't In Belgrade, the Jewish community know, eight centuries," Miri says. is quite small, but close-knit. In a city of For her and her husband, Hanukkah around 2 million people, only 2,200 call represents a key way of celebrating themselves Jewish. There is only one their Jewish heritage. ORDER DELIVERY TO synagogue in the city, in its centre, be- Rabbi Yehoshua Kaminetzy and his wife Miri Kaminetzy enjoyed their Hanukkah celebration at Chabad Serbia last year. Photo: Courtesy of Chabad Serbia The Chabad is an important place to YOUR DOOR side the Jewish municipality building, was born and raised in Israel, and his "The situation in Serbia is much bet- that the oiliness has a symbolic sig- continue this work, including classes Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 the Chabad and the Jewish museum. family owned this huge building with ter than before," he says with a smile. nificance to Hanukkah. "We need to eat on religion, holding a Shabbat dinner [email protected] "The Jewish community in Belgrade stores and everything and it all belongs And with each Hanukkah, their something that's made with oil. It's not every Friday and keeping extra rooms Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight was never too big. Before the Holocaust to the state now, the country. The Jews identity strengthens. The story behind so healthy, but it's very tasty," he jokes. on the lower floor of the building for there were about 12,000 Jews in the lost everything here," she says. the celebration reflects the struggle "Hanukkah is also symbolic of family travellers. city. In the Second World War, the Jew- By the time Belgrade was liberated Jews have faced throughout history. time, education, big families meeting "This is a religious place. Sometimes, MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT INTERGALACTIC DINNER INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF FLY FLY TRAVEL ish community disappeared because it in October 1944, "those who survived, "Someone once said, ‘the moral of each up and gathering. It's a very nice pe- you want to be politically correct, to Address: Cika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 BELGRADE Address: YUBC Bulevar Mihajla was killed by the Nazis and the people most of them moved to America, Aus- Jewish holiday is - They tried to kill us, riod," his wife adds. hide, but here you don't have to, it is a Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Temisvarska 19 Pupina 10v who helped them. So, after they de- tralia, and Israel," Yehoshua says. Those they failed, let's eat!' Hanukkah is one The festivities are spread out over place of religion," says Miri. HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Mihajla Pupina 85A stroyed the community, about ten per who stayed in Belgrade began to lose of those stories," explains political sci- eight days in homes, throughout the For many, Judaism is not only a re- Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT DVA JELENA cent of Jews survived the Holocaust in touch with their Jewish heritage. entist and Jewish community member community and sometimes in hotels. ligion but also a crucial element of SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Skadarska 32 Serbia," Yehoshua says. "The Holocaust not only destroyed Stefan Shparavalo. The Kaminetzys often spend time with their cultural heritage. For Stefan, it is HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF TOURIST ORGANISATION OF Address: Smetanina 12 Neta Milenkovic knows the story the population, it also somehow ruined Most of the Jews in Belgrade go to Jews who are traveling during the holi- a "strong part of my identity and who I Address: Studentski trg 9 Restaurant Mali vrabac SERBIA well. "It was just a very big shock here, the identity of the people because they the local synagogue or celebrate at day. am". The Kaminetzys agree. Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Trg Republike 5 RADISSON BLU OLD and I think specifically for my family," lost their community…people were home. "On the first eve of Hanukkah I "It's just candles, doughnuts, dancing, "It is a way of life," says Miri, her hus- CAFE SNEZANA MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE she says. Neta, a young Serb, has lived afraid to say they were Jewish," he says. put a menorah in my home close to the singing, fun, nothing difficult in Hanuk- band adding, "Judaism is part of your NATIONAL FOUNDATION Address: Knez Mihailova 50 HOTEL MERIOT Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 in both here and in Israel. Sitting in a Slowly, as time went on, people began window and light the first candle, say- kah," he says. life where, wherever you are, it's all FOR DANCE Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade café in Belgrade, she describes what to learn about their Jewish ancestry. ing blessings and singing Maoz Tzur," A traditional game played during Ha- around you." Address: Kolarceva 3 KOLARAC happened to her family during the Grandparents would tell their grand- writes Stefan. nukkah involves a four-sided spinning Even though Neta isn't a practicing BISTRO BAR Address: Studentski trg 5 FLY FLY TRAVEL Address: Kolarceva 7 Holocaust. children that they survived the Holo- While these rituals are fundamental top called a dreidel. Parents typically Jew, she draws strength from cultural Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 RESTAURANT BIZU Address: Aerodrom pult "We used to live in Dorcol, and there caust. "Then the children come to the to the festival, food is important as well. give their children a bit of money, or aspects of the religion. "As much as I HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 was this huge building that was just for community and they say ‘I am Jewish,' Families cook oily fare like doughnuts gelt, which is used to bet on the game. don't connect to the religion, if it wasn't Address: Kneza Milosa 5 SKVER 44 FLY FLY TRAVEL Jewish people. My mom's ex-boyfriend, but they didn't know they were Jewish called sufganiyot and potato pancakes Each side of the dreidel has a different for the Jewish community, I wouldn't Address: Pozeska 44a Address: Knez Mihailova 4 he is of Serbian Jewish heritage, but he up until that point," the Rabbi says. called latkes. Rabbi Yehoshua explains letter, each determining how much the be where I am now." 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 7 SERBIA BUSINESS COMMENT Chinese Firm to Build Confronting the Shame Regional Serbian Highway

of Nationalism after In a deal dubbed as the most Mladic Verdict important agreement Pernicious of the Sino- nationalist Balkan summit narratives still in Budapest, a hinder regional Chinese firm has cooperation in signed on to build a vital highway in the Balkans – but Serbia’s west. they can only be defeated with Ivana NIKOLIC erbia’s Infrastructure Minister, unity. Zorana Mihajlovic, has signed a 450-million-euro deal with the China Communication Construction Company at a Srdjan GARCEVIC SChina, Central and Eastern European economic summit, giving the firm the go n the late 1990s and early 2000s, ahead to build a 30-kilometre section of there was hope that trials at the highway between Preljina and Pozega in International Criminal Tribunal Serbia’s southwest. for the former Yugoslavia, ICTY, With construction most likely starting would bring closure and recon- in May 2018 and taking three years, the Zorana Mihajlovic, Serbia’s Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Construction, Traffic and Infrastructure, signs the commercial contract for the construction of a highway from Preljina to Pozega. Photo: Beta Iciliation to the people of the region. road will further connect Serbia and the However, the reactions to Bosnian Serb region. fore,” Mihajlovic said, after signing the vac, a new wastewater treatment plant in same summit in Belgrade in December Work on the railway section connect- general Ratko Mladic's guilty verdict, in “The construction of the highway contract on November 28. the capital, construction of a railway be- 2014, saw work start on November 28. ing Stara Pazova and Novi Sad is already which he was held responsible for the from Preljina to Pozega is not only a The Deputy PM stressed that China is tween Novi Sad and Subotica in Serbia’s China Railways International and Chi- underway, but the section between Novi 1995 genocide in Srebrenica and sev- matter of connecting with Montenegro, one of Serbia’s most important partners, north and a protocol on conditions for na Construction Company are in charge Sad and the Hungarian border is yet to eral further crimes in Bosnia, quickly but it also opens the possibility for us highlighting the six billion euros worth beef exports to China. of building the section of railway con- see any action. proved that closure is still far away. to move onto the construction of the of infrastructure projects it currently has Serbian officials estimate the overall necting Belgrade and Stara Pazova, at a The Belgrade-Budapest project is the Milorad Dodik, the President of Re- highway to Bosnia and Herzegovina, to underway in Serbia. value of these new Sino-Serbian projects value of around $350 million. That part very first cross-border project within publika Srpska, or RS, the Serb-majority connect regionally. That is of strategic Apart from the highway, a number of to be around one billion euros. will most likely be finished in three years, the framework of cooperation between Bosnian entity created during the war, importance to Serbia, because it will other contracts were signed. The deals A deal to modernize the Belgrade- while construction of the entire Serbian China and the countries of Central and rushed to say that the subsequent (and Many still view Ratko Mladic as an honourable defender of Serbia and not a war criminal. Photo: Beta bring us new investments and enable a include a hot water pipeline between Budapest rail line and construct a high- side of the rail line (184km) is scheduled Eastern Europe, jointly implemented by in my opinion thoroughly deserved) better flow of people and goods than be- Belgrade and the municipality of Obreno- speed railway connection, struck at the for completion in six. Serbia, Hungary and China. life sentence for Mladic was a "slap in ernments and people is a staple in re- be the antidote to rabid nationalism. In While too few people still know the face to Serbs". Dodik went on to say In these instances visionist and heavily politicised histo- many ways it is the continuation of the about the amount of suffering heaped that Mladic was a "hero", despite Mladic ries. The war and atrocities which took narratives that started the wars in the on those from other nations, and still having overseen the murder of thou- the grief of place in the final days of Yugoslavia are first place, all of which revolved around too often wave criticisms away with sands of Bosniak boys and men. Serbi- victims of the war regarded as an almost necessary, inevi- the long list of historic injustices against whataboutism, all around the region an Report: Serbia “Performs Well” in Paying Taxes an President Aleksandar Vucic issued table, logical conclusion of our pasts – each nation, perpetrated by the others, enormous number of people are con- a muted statement which described is exploited and as opposed to the machinations and during WWII or even longer ago. After nected by a strong underlying feeling the day of Mladic's verdict as "neither a missteps of an incompetent bellicose all, Mladic explained his actions not as that the wars in 1990s were a shameful Ivana NIKOLIC However, it warns that after the tech- happy, nor a sad one for Serbia". Nation- their tragic fates clique, who assumed power at a very the result of his project to ethnically mistake that left us all poorer and more A new report by nological innovations and simplifica- alist parties in both countries issued fragile moment. They are, of course, cleanse Srebrenica of its Bosniak resi- miserable, especially given all the sac- recent report titled Paying tion of the entire tax system, action that statements praising Mladic, but (thank- utilised as barriers side-stepping many long periods and dents, but as revenge for the suffering rifices we had to make. However, it is the World Bank Taxes 2018, says “between would “take tax compliance to the next fully) managed to gather only around important instances of cooperation the Serbs endured under Dahije, 19th still difficult for us to voice that shame and consultantcy 2013 and 2015 the ease of level” has slowed. 100 people in Belgrade in protest. to cooperation, as and prosperity, which forged the foun- century Ottoman potentates. collectively and confront the fact that Apaying taxes improved both “The challenge is to continue with Unfortunately, all of this was essen- dations of the equally simplified, but All of these narratives of "impossible" over a hundred thousand people were in simplifying procedures and digitis- reforms that will bring technological tially aligned with the now-common opposed to being much less pernicious, narrative on friendships and peace crumble once sacrificed in vain. firm PwC shows ing processes” in Serbia. improvements and further simplify the macabre spectacle across Serbia, Bos- which Yugoslavia was actually built. people from the region meet or work to- Even if ICTY has not managed to The in-depth analysis on tax systems in administration of taxes,” it said. nia, Croatia and Kosovo of treating the held up as prime Now, almost two decades after the gether. Conversations might begin with punish all those who contributed (and paying taxes in 190 economies published annually by the “Arguably the most obvious area for trials in The Hague as some bizarre last shots were fired and after many standard awkward chit-chat to make still contribute) to this shame, at least it World Bank Group and Pricewaterhouse- improvement is the completion of the tournament. Even the most tenuous examples of regional meetups in which people es- sure that nobody belongs to the 5 per brought some solace to those who lost Serbia is much Coopers explained that the success came process of digitalisation for filing taxes "not guilty" verdicts are celebrated as poused platitudes about peace and cent of ultra-nationalist cranks, but we too much, and gave us a touchstone mostly as a result of the introduction and and simplifying local taxes and charg- victories of our "own side", while "guilty" why cooperation stability, the narrative of reconcilia- all generally focus on the shared expe- from which we can begin to understand easier than five improvement of electronic systems for fil- es,” it concludes. verdicts based on proven brutality and/ tion's impossibility regularly rears its riences, whether it is our (still) shared the bloody depths of our common em- ing tax returns and paying taxes. Paying Taxes uses the perspective of or murders of former compatriots, are could be the ugly head. This year's commemoration popular culture or indeed the trauma barrassment. As long as we keep telling years ago, but The report called these measures “a a medium sized domestic manufacturer met with cries of foul play against the of destruction of Vukovar at the hands and shame of the war and its aftermath. stories to shield ourselves from accept- substantial improvement” and “signifi- to understand how a case study compa- ICTY – as if an international court of antidote to rabid of the Milosevic-controlled Yugoslav Representatives of our nations, alleged- ing how deeply embarrassing and fu- warns there is still cantly reduced” what it calls the “num- ny interacts with tax systems in all 190 law's ruling was simply a case of a bad National Army, the Croatian President ly destined for adversity, we rather talk tile our wars were, we will still not see ber of payments indicator” from 67 in economies reviewed. It assesses both New Zealand ranks Top 3 on the Paying Taxes 2018 –report. Photo: Flickr/US Embassy reffing. nationalism. Grabar-Kitanovic said that a lot more as people whose lives were disturbed the shame nor humanity in each other, room to grow. 2013 to 33 in 2015 and the time to com- the amount of tax paid and how long it On top of this, politicians across the water needs to pass before Serbia and by megalomaniac nationalists and and reconciliation will stay on the hori- ply from 279 hours to 226 hours. takes the company to meet its tax com- Five other Balkan countries also across borders, enforcing contracts and region regularly engage in efforts to Croatia can be friends again. Former their Machiavellian plans for increas- zon, as opposed to an achievable goal. “An additional boost was given by pliance obligations. This includes the made it on to the list: Macedonia, Ko- resolving insolvency. fan the embers of nationalism using Croatian Prime Minister Jadranka Ko- ing personal power and wealth. We talk abolishing land usage charges which time to prepare, file and pay the main sovo, Montenegro, Romania and Bul- Labour market regulations are tradi- incendiary statements and comments, sor has stated that whether "Serbs and as those who were either frustrated by positively impacted the number of taxes, as well as the time taken to claim garia. tionally measured, but were not includ- which are almost solely designed to "Kosovo is Serbia" to Kosovska Mitro- Croats can live together" is an impor- the futility of resisting nationalists or, Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a payments as well as the overall tax bur- a VAT refund and deal with a correction The report measures the quality of ed in the report this year. be smokescreens for their otherwise vica – none are more toxic then those tant question. indeed, as those who are disenchanted founder of The Nutshell Times blog. den,” it said. to a corporate income tax return. regulations in 11 areas of business life, The top three champions of the underwhelming results. Although they which insist that reconciliation is not In these instances the grief of victims by grand nationalist narratives, after Complying with tax obligations in Another World Bank report, Doing including starting a business, deal- global ranking this year were New can be very elaborate and outright currently an option, and perhaps will of the war is exploited and their tragic promises of better lives for the whole The opinions expressed in the Com- Serbia now takes 19 per cent less time Business 2018, published earlier this ing with construction permits, getting Zealand, Singapore and Denmark. demented – for example, this year's never be one. fates utilised as barriers to cooperation, nation morphed into oppression of oth- ment section are those of the authors than three years ago, outperforming month, also hailed Serbia, ranking an electricity connection, registering The three states occupying the bot- attempt to send a kitschy train embla- The narrative of impossibility of as opposed to being held up as prime ers and better lives for only the power- only and do not necessarily reflect the other countries in Central and Eastern it among the top 50 countries in the property, getting credit, protecting mi- tom places were Venezuela, Eritrea zoned with hundreds of signs saying friendly relations between both gov- examples of why cooperation could ful few. views of BIRN. Europe according to the report. world for business regulation. nority investors, paying taxes, trading and Somalia. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 9 REGION FACES

Hungary's ruling strengthen Szeklersland's links to Hun- gary. Fidesz party has Besides religious and cultural pro- jects, local businesses also get generous gone all out to funds from the government in Budapest. I do not have time for lies However, these policies do not always win the support enjoy broad support among Hungarians living in Hungary itself. "And that self of ours is constantly changing, basic experience and knowledge of taste to cre- of the discon- with every breath we take; so, change is necessary ate something new. What I can say is that I pre- FIDESZ COURTS for a person to remain true to oneself. Then you fer to put white wine in goulash, instead of red, tented ethnic HUNGARIANS IN ROMANIA can do the things that are really important, and which is kind of uncommon, but that's the way I Hungarians of everything is possible." like it." Unsurprisingly, last October, Orban Martial arts and sports used to be an important Romania - whose opened his re-election campaign in Ro- LISTENING TO WOMEN part of his activities. It all started before elementa- mania, rather than in Hungary. ry school, when his neighbour took him to Karate votes could help New elections will be held in Hungary Asked about why so many of his readers are training. It was followed by judo, ice hockey and next spring. The renewed attention of women, he says his relationship with women rowing, ending up with Thai boxing. it retain power in the Prime Minister on ethnic Hungar- was always extremely important, starting with ians living in Romania works effectively his mother, for both his emotional and his profes- WINNING AND LOSING next year's elec- in his favour. sional life. On the one hand, it addresses the con- "My ideal is monogamy, as I do not have time to "The struggle with the ego is of the paramount tions. cerns of the most nationalist voters at lie, or hide," he says. importance. When the fight is lost, there can al- home, while on the other hand it wins "I am just no good at that. I know a lot of suc- ways be excuses. But there were also times when Transylvanian Hungarian voters' hearts cessful women that are in control, and have eve- I knew I did everything well, trained enough, did and minds, by making them feel full- rything they want. But the trick is that they need my own combinations of defence and attack, but Marco CARLONE fledged Hungarian citizens. to be much stronger [than men] – more careful and lost anyway; the other person was just better than Martina NAPOLITANO Fidesz today is widely supported by work much harder to achieve that. Not being late me. You can learn from defeat. For me, it is difficult Simone BENAZZO Magyars abroad, who have found in it with work, being responsible, forward-looking. So, to distinguish between winning and losing, as "a new interlocutor, that finally pays at- I prefer to listen to women." both can be good or bad. It is the interpretation, the even cried; it was one of the tention to our demands," the mayor of Tokin started writing back in elementary understanding of it, that matters." best days of my life," says Sfantu Gheorghe Arpad-Andras Antal, school, after readingThe Little Prince, by Antoine Explaining how he recently went through se- Erika Benko, an MP from the from the UDMR, told BIRN. de Saint-Exupery, which he then spontaneously rious emotional crises, Tokin says that at one Democratic Union of Hun- The Szeklers have long criticized tried to rewrite. point it got too much that he took a baseball stick garians in Romania, UDMR, Romania's policies towards its ethnic "After a page-and-a-half, someone came along and smashed almost everything in his old apart- the"I main party representing Romania's minorities, claiming the government and told me that if I wanted to write a book, it had ment. well-organised Hungarian community. pursues a discriminatory policy and al- to be a new one, not one already written. So I start- "I was angry at myself, with life, and that 'I don't The 42-year-old vice-chair of the Ro- locates their areas less funds than other ed writing my diary. It was about what books, and want to' thought was constant in my mind. At first manian parliament's Committee for Hu- regions get. girls I liked. And those interests, in girls, books and it was painful, destroying the place I grew up in, man Rights, Cults and National Minori- Civic associations close to the UDMR sports, have stayed with me until today." but it served the purpose well," he says ties Issues well remembers her feeling have recently published a number of Before his writing career kicked off, he used to Then, he adds with a smile, the place had to be of excitement when she applied for and leaflets, in both Hungarian and English, work as barman, a web designer, a construction renovated anyway before being put on sale. gained Hungarian citizenship in 2011. detailing what they consider evidence worker, accountant, web designer and copywriter. "It can be good to take it out on material stuff. I Benko belongs to the so-called Szekler of the mistreatment of their community. He was even a chef in several restaurants. Asked would never do it in front of anyone, nor I would community of central Transylvania, the Some groups have also denounced how much black chocolate a good deer goulash ask for help from 'the north' [from above, God]. largest group inside Romania's Hungar- "anti-Hungarian manifestations" taking needs, he smiles, stressing that sometimes he This is because it is important to realize the way ian minority. place in Romania, while Benko herself doesn't put in any: one passed to get to the point where you stand – Hungarians remains numerous in has actively taken part in reporting on "It is a matter of the moment, there are no rules. and then find the understanding – the message parts of Transylvania, which formerly "Discrimination Against the Hungarian But, as in writing, you have to acquire previously that is there. I think I did." formed part of Hungary. However, Hun- national minority in Romania." gary lost it when it had to surrender two- The MP told BIRN about the suspect- thirds of its territory under the harsh ed existence of plans to alter the "ethnic terms of the Treaty of Trianon in 1920. composition of Szeklersland", by substi- As a result of these losses, many Hun- tuting ethnic Hungarians with Moldo- garians suddenly became minorities in vans, diluting the former with Romani- the expanded kingdom of Romania, and an-speakers. in the new states of Czechoslovakia and Fidesz allegedly supports such propa- Yugoslavia. Almost a century later, the gandistic actions, because, according scars of Trianon are still raw among eth- to Stefano Bottoni, an Italian historian nic Hungarians abroad. based in Budapest, it is eager to turn the Praised by both critics and his audience, Ivan Tokin's readers often approach him, eager to Photo: Courtesy of Tokin Hungary's meet the person behind the words they love. UDMR into its Romanian branch. SZEKLERS SEE "It is likely that their constituencies THEMSELVES PART OF will be recommended to vote for Or- HUNGARIAN NATION Orban Woos ban's party at the next parliamentary One of the most widely NOTHING IS RANDOM elections in 2018," the historian said. Today, about 7 per cent of Romania's The UDMR has also profited from the read mid-generation "The novel was born unintentionally, when my 19.5 million citizens are ethnic Hungar- Romania's Restive intensified cooperation with Hungary's former wife and I were short of money. She works ians. Some parts of the community, es- rulers, regaining the preferences of the Serbian authors recalls in the advertising business and asked me to start pecially the 600,000 Szeklers, have long ethnic Hungarians living in Romania. a blog about dogs. I guess that, while writing about campaigned for an autonomous region in Hungarians With Fidesz's help, the UDMR pre- what he learned from my dog, I was telling my readers more about my- Transylvania. They still see themselves sents itself as the most important politi- self and about life; people liked it, until eventually it as very much part of the wider Hungar- cal actor in Szeklersland, thus sidelining his dog – the difference wasn't necessary to mention the advertised prod- In the towns of Sf.ntu Gheorghe [Sepsiszentgyorgy in Hungarian] and in Photo: Marco Carlone, Martina Napolitano, Simone Benazzo ian nation and have very close relation- Miercurea Ciuc [Csikszereda in Hungarian], Hungarian is the dominant language smaller, more radical factions, such as ucts any more. Then my editor saw it and asked me ship with Hungary itself. in both spoken and written form, and is found on menus and even graffiti. the Hungarian People's Party of Transyl- between winning to turn it into a novel, and everything just clicked." In 2010, Viktor Orban's Hungary ap- vania, PPMT. Tokin says that while life is sometimes separate proved a new law, simplifying the citizen- used by Fidesz's national policy is that of However, in the towns of Sfântu Gheo- sity in Transylvania, with branches in Hungarians abroad are still being and losing, and the from writing, it can also be at one with it: ship application for Hungarians abroad, szorványmagyarság, the Hungarian dias- rghe [Sepsiszentgyorgy, in Hungarian] Cluj-Napoca, Miercurea Ciuc and Targu courted by Orban who reached out to "There are times when I find messages to myself in a move aimed at easing some of the pora, by which Budapest claims itself as and in Miercurea Ciuc [Csikszereda, in Mures. them in July in a letter. paramount importance in my own words, as a kind of an omen, and then feeling of "injustice" that had resulted symbolic motherland, orchestrating the Hungarian], Hungarian is the dominant But when Fidesz came to power for In the letter, the Prime Minister urged wonder: 'Where did this came from?' So I learn from the terms of the treaty that followed politics of survival of the Hungarian mi- language, both in spoken and written a second time in 2010, the Hungarian dual-nationality citizens, who he ac- of love and courage. about myself through writing. Nothing is really World War I. norities in neighbouring countries." form, including the menus and even government became a much more ac- counts to be „several hundred thou- random; there are always a thousand things, deci- From January 1, 2011, once they proved Despite the criticism it has drawn from graffiti. tive patron of Hungarian communities sand" strong, to register for next year's sions we made, leading us to the point where we that their family held Hungarian citizen- the authorities in Romania, in the centre Monuments, streets and schools are beyond the country's borders. elections „to allow us to shape our desti- Milan RADONJIC are now. ship before 1920, these people have had of Budapest, on the parliament building, named after local Magyar legends, such Epitomized by the new citizenship ny together" and „to make decisions that "Somebody may say that I was lucky, to which I the chance to restore ties with their an- the Szeklers' yellow-azure flag waves as the hero of the 1848 Hungarian Revo- law, collaboration between the Buda- will decide Hungary's fate and that will didn't ask for a dog, even when I was reply: 'Do all the things I have done and then say cestral homeland. proudly right next to the Hungarian flag. lution Aron Gabor or the Catholic bish- pest government and Szekler political have an effect on the entire Carpathian a child. But this one followed me half- that.' So, both experience and its interpretation are These new citizens, as soon as parlia- For many there, ancient Great Hungary op Aron Marton, who saved Jews from groups intensified, prompting the latter Basin". blind and injured; it just would not go equally important." mentary elections were held in Hungary lives on. Nazi persecution and fought against the to become more vocal in their demands Meanwhile, the UDMR is supporting away. So she slept that night with me Praised by both critics and his audience, Tokin's in 2014, thanked Orbán mightily: his coali- Communist system. to Bucharest. Orban's efforts through billboards and at my place, and then stayed for next readers often approach him, eager to meet the per- tion gained a stunning 95 per cent of the A FLAVOUR OF HUNGARY In the streets it is almost impossible No surprise, then, that last month, even phone campaigns. 16"I years," Ivan Tokin says, talking about his latest son behind the words they love. It even happens votes cast in the so-called Szeklersland – IN ROMANIA'S HEART not to come across old ladies baking during a meeting in Cluj, FIDESZ and These votes from abroad are par- novel called The Dog, written not from the narra- while this interview is in progress. Szekelyfold, in Hungarian. and selling typical Hungarian cakes, the the UDMR agreed on a range of short, ticularly important for Fidesz, which tive view of the human pet owner, but from the He does not mind. "I can't say that I do not feel Once mocked in Hungary for their Some 720 km east of the Hungarian kürtőskalács. medium and long-term projects that al- dreams of regaining a two-thirds major- view of man's best friend. fond of support, or of achievements, for that mat- Transylvanian accents and rural lifestyle, capital, on the other side of the border, Since the fall of Communism, succes- legedly represent „the interests of the ity in parliament that would then allow There is a lot to learn from dogs about the nature ter; but what is really important for me is love, and the Szeklers now form a powerful elec- Szeklersland – literally, land of the Sze- sive governments in Budapest have at- Hungarian community in Romania and it to make constitutional changes. of life first through their unconditional trust, and courage also. In life it is good to do things one is toral base for Orban's Fidesz party. klers – is a Hungarian exclave in the mid- tempted to revive and cultivate ties with the interests of the two neighbouring When asked how Szeklers feel in by becoming worthy of it, Tokin observes, remark- afraid of," he says. As maintained by Sabrina Ramet dle of Romania. ethnic Hungarians in Romania. countries". terms of their identity, Arpad-Andras ing that one of the most precious understandings Tokin also points out that it takes a lot of bravery and Marko Valenta in their book Ethnic Since the 1920s, not much has changed In 2001, the Hungarian government Popular and visible initiatives, such as Antal said without hesitation: "Those he obtained this way was about living without self- for people to dare to be themselves. Minorities and Politics in Post-Socialist in the urban landscape of the area: public financially supported the establishment the foundation of the Football Academy who dream and cry in Hungarian, can pity, accepting events as they occur, and living in "I managed to do so only when there was nothing Southeastern Europe, "one of the notions buildings now have bilingual signs. of the Sapientia – Hungarian Univer- of Szekler Land, were undertaken to only be Hungarian." the moment. else to do, or when nothing else worked," he says. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Wishful drinking - Skiing Serbia: the Highs wine list

reviews Corner Wine and the Lows While this home- style bistro offers a "What a place. We went by foot to the fairly limited wine Winter in Serbia highest point in park Tara…what a view list, those selected and a very calm place....you can take a can be magic. lot of pictures and you won't be bored... match the food it's an easy walk and you won't be lost.... well. Ski snow- it's a must see in Serbia," Rachel S from Beirut posted in October. Pavle GOLICIN covered forests, Theofme found it the ideal place for t’s already been a couple of self-reflection and contemplation, writ- trek peaceful years since Atelje kod Smilje ing in January that after really enjoying opened in the heart of Bel- mountains and her walk on Tara she was able to clear Igrade’s Vracar neighbourhood. her mind. However, it took us a while to pay But you'll have to pick your route if a visit; mostly due to the fact that eat great food; but the atelier is first and foremost a it's solitude you're looking for. guesthouse to which a restaurant is make sure you get "The most famous place of Tara is the attached. view of Banjska stena [Banjska Rock], This time, we decided to profit the right advice. get ready for sharing that place with from the last days of the Indian many other tourists. There are other summer in Belgrade by having an outdoor lunch. The hidden garden viewpoints in Tara, like Orlov vis, which at Smilja’s atelier (studio) - which Maja ZIVANOVIC are not as easily accessible (there is no used to be a photography studio a road nearby), but which offer equally long time ago – gave us the perfect erbia has its share of winter beautiful views," one visitor wrote. setting. resorts offering an escape The menu at Smilja’s is straight- forward and the wine list follows from the everyday rush and DIVCIBARE the same formula. It is quite narrow, traffic of the city. You could containing 21 labels presented as a buy into what's being adver- But for Belgraders, looking for a quick one-pager, but that is rather accept- Stised but if you want the low-down, the weekend escape, only 120km out of able in terms of the potential for The interior design of Atelje kod Smilje is a charming mix of a traditional French bistro and trendy industrial style. Photo: Facebook/Atelje kod Smilje best tips on winter in Serbia come from town sits Divcibare resort, more than combining appropriate wine with the food on offer. Approximately those who've actually been. 1100 metres above sea level. half the wines listed are available MakicaK, TripAdvisor's Destination With a long history of spa tourism, Di- by the glass. expert for Serbia, lays it out for tourists vcibare has many sights and incredible Having tried all the wines on the planning a visit to Serbia in the snow. views of Maljen Mountain. list, apart from the house wine, I de- "The largest ski resort of Kopaonik is And even this close to the city, you'll cided to take a chance and explore new avenues. I really like it when pretty certain to have some snow even have a chance to ski. On the north side Atelje kod Smilje the restaurant has a house wine, as as early as December, but it is more ori- of Black Peak, Divcibare resort has a its selection tells you a lot about the ented towards dedicated skiers than oth- run almost a kilometre from start to fin- restaurant itself. Here, the house is ing to impress us mainly because it is er general winter activities," he writes. ish. from the Mrdjanin winery, which is This cosy, family- so widespread that you can get one situated on the hills of Fruska Gora, "Other mountains with tourist capaci- "It is much smaller than Zlatibor just as good from almost any bakery close to Sremski Karlovci, an area run bistro is a rare ties are Zlatibor and Tara. Divcibare is a and Kopaonik, but it is compact and that has been famous for vineyards in town. small resort but very close to Belgrade, quite close to Belgrade - only a 3-hour and wine-making for centuries. The American style pie - warm ap- so you could decide to go there at the last bus drive. If you are a beginner, it has I began with their white Italian gem in the heart of ple tart served with vanilla ice cream minute if the weather is right at the time." a short but appropriate ski track near Riesling, wrongly named as Riesling was excellent, just as good as one in an The Kopaonik range has the largest ski resort in the country Photo: Flickr/Ratko Bozovic in the wine list. Italian Riesling hotel ‘Pepa' reachable by foot," one Trip the city centre. expensive restaurant. (also known as Welschriesling or KOPAONIK The slopes are ok, even though there is 1490 metres above sea level. Although "The slopes are not so challenging Advisor user wrote in November, not- Grasevina) is a grape variety that is The traditional poppy seed pie was a lot of ice on the slopes and it is very some reviewers were disappointed, most and the staff is poor, all around, espe- ing that there is a longer ski track but it grown throughout Central Europe amazing. It is a layered sweet pastry With about 55 kilometres of runs for crowded, but overall, the prices are TripAdvisor users have been positive. cially the lift operators. Most of the is absolutely not for beginners. and it is completely unrelated to Duda&Vlada soaked in sugar syrup that resembles alpine skiers and 12 kilometres of cross- ok, much higher than a few years ago "Excellent for beginners and interme- time they are sitting smoking in the But the top-rated thing to do in Di- the Riesling (also known as Rhine baklava. It is not very common in Bel- Riesling or sometimes White country skiing, the Kopaonik range is though and increasing each year". diate snowboarders. There is a big park- service houses just watching people vcibare is to see the Skakalo waterfalls. telja kod Smilje, which grade’s restaurants and, yes, it is over- Riesling). Nevertheless, it was crisp the largest ski resort in the country. ing space, a lot of skiing schools for kids fall and struggle with the t-bars," they There are also plenty of great hotels with all the usual aromas of this means Studio at Smilj’a whelmingly sweet. However, in rare TripAdvisor user Alexio Cubrilo ZLATIBOR and adults, lots of places to rent equip- wrote. nearby. grape variety – apple, pear, apricot, or Atelier chez Smilja is cases when the texture helps to coun- posted last year that Kopaonik gave ment," Nica011 wrote on Trip Advisor TripAdvisor's MakicaK hinted that flint and floral. A very pleasant a family-run business teract the sweetness it can be truly fan- him a good week of skiing. While Kopaonik may host the biggest in February. She was also impressed by TARA although the December weather was appetizer, this wine also went well that would often be tastic. This one, we dare to say, was one with the veal liver. "If you're an intermediate skier, it's resort, Zlatibor, a mountainous region the range of other activities, including pretty rainy and not great for nature- foundA in a small coastal town but in- of the best pies we have ever had. The red house wine is Cabernet perfect. Skiing through a snowy forest in Serbia's south-west, offers a bigger zip-lining and tubing. Tara Mountain sits well inside the lovers otherwise, the mountains were Franc. Wines from 100 per cent stead it has made its way to the centre The presentation of all the dishes is something else," he wrote, adding variety of things to do off the slopes, as But seasoned skiers beware: user Dinaric Alps in the far West of Serbia. probably the best place to be in winter. Cabernet Franc - one of the six of the capital city. was as expected from a good bistro - that the great food and cheap beer was well as on, such as museums, caves, wa- TcresidentTc was unhappy with the Its declaration as a National park in 1981 "Snow is likely (but not guaranteed) Bordeaux red grapes - are rarely It is a kind, cosy and friendly little very simply, but done with care. The probably the best in Europe. terfalls and other landmarks. level of difficulty on many of the slopes means it has kept its almost 20 hectares to fall, providing a beautiful winter made, so I was curious to taste it. place that does a little bit of everything servings are generous and the prices Again, it was a well-rounded wine, PeevA, another user, says Kopaonik Tornik Ski Resort is on Zlatibor's high- and complained the services were not of wild beauty intact and is a must for scenery, only in the mountains," he – serving as a guest house, a restaurant very reasonable. The only obvious with nicely incorporated wood tan- is "a good place for a few days of skiing. est peak, with runs rising from 1110 to up to scratch. hikers. wrote. nins, but with a medium body and with home-made food, hosting occa- place for improvement is the service, somewhat short. All in all, it went sional art exhibitions and evenings which was slow at times. okay with the grilled sausages. with live music. This gem is hidden in Chicken filet filled with ricotta cheese and zucchini, rolled in Photo: Facebook/Atelje kod Smilje We left with full bellies and content bacon is one of the dishes served at the restaurant. The mark-up here is at the aver- Smiljaniceva street in the heart of Vra- hearts, and will surely return, as we age level for Belgrade restaurants, perhaps even slightly below. The car district. and mild and tender on the inside. We finished off the meal by sampling found Atelje kod Smilje a fantastic op- service is friendly and ready to help The interior design is a charming The mashed potatoes served along- three different, unique pies. We ranked tion for a casual meal. at any time with good suggestions. mix of a traditional French bistro and side tasted just like ‘the real thing’ your the pies in order of the very good, the All in all, more depth in the wine trendy industrial style. On a sunny au- granny would serve up. And the dish excellent and the amazing. 14-17.12. list certainly wouldn’t hurt. More tumn day at lunch, their small, seclud- was wonderfully balanced. After five centuries under the Otto- ATELJE KOD SMILJE styles and different countries of BELGRADE FAIR origin would just add another layer ed garden was at full capacity, and we The grilled homemade sausages man Empire, pies in the Balkans are Address: Smiljaniceva 40 to an already fine experience that were lucky to get a seat. were served with a rocket salad and usually made by rolling a thick layer Phone: +381 11 3440106 Smilja’s offers. The menu at Smilja’s is elaborate, but three different side dressings: caramel- of filling into thin sheets of pastry. The Price Guide: 1300-1600 dinars [11 – A place where you can enjoy a large part of it is comprised of break- ized red onions, mustard and red pep- sour cherry pie at Smilja’s was done 14 euros] per person for three courses your wine (and food) in silence, fast and snack options such as ome- per. The sausages tasted interesting that way, and it was really good, fail- without drinks under the trees in a quiet garden, is not easy to find in the city centre. lettes, sandwiches, pizza and salads. and were very enjoyable, but were a Smilja’s is one of them. Of course, we were there for ‘the real too rare for our likings. But some might thing’, and we looked straight at the prefer theirs if they were cooked com- ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ ~ ~ ~ specials list, and asked our waiter for pletely. ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” recommendations. The veal liver, also grilled, was the RESTAURANT KOVAČ Basic Info Rating We started with the fried zucchini simplest yet best dish we tried. Again, modern ethno restaurant sticks; they were OK, but a bit over- it was served with three basic, side- cooked. The sticks were not as prom- dips - garlic, red pepper and mustard. Overall GOOD ising they sounded on the menu, and The liver was also perfectly prepared, Wine selection AVERAGE were definitely not indicative of the ex- beautifully tender and literally melted Wine service GOOD cellent food that was coming our way. in the mouth. It was delicately sea- Wine pricing €14 - €46 All three of our main courses ex- soned, adding a hint of sweetness to its celled. Chicken breast stuffed with mineral-metallic flavour. At 520 dinars ricotta and zucchini, rolled in panc- [about 4 euros], this is one of the most Wine and GOOD etta and fried was perfectly executed memorable yet affordable dishes of- Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com food pairing – salty and crunchy on the outside, fered in central Belgrade. 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

th Belgrade's 9 LGBT EXHIBITIONS Film Fest, Merlinka CLUBBING AND EVENTS "Fall in Love with Your Eyes Closed" say the FRIDAY DECEMBER 01 organisers of Merlinka, the Book Exhibition: “The Best-Selling AND LIVE MUSIC ninth International LGBT Books of All Time”, Studentski Grad Arts in brief Cultural Centre, Boulevard Zorana Film Festival taking place Djindjica 179, 10am 23rd Festival of Author's Film, different from December 7-13 at locations, 10am FRIDAY DECEMBER 01 • Epilog, Dorcol Platz, Dobracina • Oleg Kireyev Belgrade Jazz Dom Omladine. Tickets Exhibition: “Death of Karadjordje 59b, 10pm Band, Soul Society, Mira Trailovic Petrovic”, History Museum, Trg Nikole • KBO, Bozidarac, Radoslava Grujica • Simple Symmetry (Disco Halal), Square, 10pm cost about two euros Pasica 11, 12pm 3, 9pm Grad Cultural Center, Brace • Bolesna Stena, Fest Club, Gradski per day or get a 7-day Exhibition: “Records From the Autobiographical Garden”, Ivan • Stuttgart Online, Elektropionir, Krsmanovica 4, 11pm Park Zemun, 9pm KOLARAC ticket for 10 euros. Visit Sukovic, Art Gallery U10, Kosovske Cetinjska 15, 9pm • Philip Berg (Blind Bodies, DE) • All That Bass presents Hugh the official site for more Devojke 3, 1pm Exhibition: “The Artist's Imprint”, • Acart, Ciglana, Slanacki put 26, & 33.10.3402, Drugstore, Bulevar Hardie, Grad Cultural Center, information on films and 10pm Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Brace Krsmanovica 4, 10pm PROGRAMME Marija Miladinovic, Art Gallery Beti screening times: www. Ford, Zetska 2, 5pm • Iskaz, Zappa Barka, Usce bb, 10pm • Kisobran Party, Dom Omladine, • Gus Gus, Hangar, Knezopoljska 3, Exhibition: „Intelligence of Plants“, • Manivi, Soul Society, Mira Trailovic Makedonska 22, 11pm 10pm merlinka.com. Scientific Club Belgrade, Kralja Petra 46, Square, 10pm • Mike Huckaby / Deep • Albion (Camp Cosmic), 20/44 6pm • Breakdown, Grad Cultural Centre, Transportation, 20/44 Club, Usce Club, Usce bb, 11pm Exhibition: Mirjana Fustic, Library Belgrade „Branko Mijlkovic“, Bulevar kralja Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11pm bb, 11pm • Forward Transition at Drugstore Philharmonic New Aleksandra 298, 6pm • Tresor meets Drugstore with Moritz • Milos Starcevic & John Belk, w Jackie D, Phillie P, Little Lu, International Photography Festival von Oswald & Mareena, Drugstore, Tranzit bar, Brace Krsmanovica 8, Drugstore, Boulevard Despota Year's Super Nova “Vizualizator”, different locations, 7pm Boulevard Despota Stefana 115, 11pm 11pm Stefana 115, 11pm Exhibition: „Breathe Deeply”, Tatjana FRIDAY, DECEMBER 01 Programme: Schubert, Milutinovic Vondracek, Lucida Gallery, • Danijel Cehranov All Night Long, • Concrete DJz, KPTM, Zorza • The FUNK / Iron & Necone, Secer Joachim, Brahms This year, the Belgrade Cika Ljubina 11/I, 7pm Tranzit bar, Brace Krsmanovic 8, Klemensoa 22, 11pm Club, Svetogorska 17, 11pm Concert Hall, 8pm Production: Music Centre Philharmonic Orchestra Belgrade Debate on Europe 2017: 11pm • Quickting, KPTM, Zorza Europe’s Opportunity and Zeitgeister - Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Admission free will hold not one but two • Home Made Party, Imago CUK, Klemensoa 22, 11pm SATURDAY DECEMBER 09 Conductor: Daniel Raiskin Past, Present and Future, UK Parobrod, New Year's concerts, on Kapetan Misina 6a, 7pm Decanska 14, 10pm • Nadezda Dimitrijevic, Kaldrma Programme: L. van Beethoven, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 10 Media Philosophy - Media and • YES: Twins (CGI / Atlanta) Live, bar, Skadarska 40, 8pm • Duo Ti, Turisti, Dom Omladine, B. Bartok December 28 and 29. Alternative Tribune, Belgrade City 20/44 Club, Usce bb, 11pm • Kakadu’s showcase 4 Doo’s bday, Makedonska 22, 9pm Production: Belgrade Philhar- Concert Hall, 8pm "Super Nova" features Library, Knez Mihailova 56, 7pm • BeGeFank Party, KPTM, Zorza Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, 7pm • Del Arno Bend, Fest Club, Gradski monic Orchestra Piano Duo Vasil Hadzimanov & Delicatessen Monday, Grad Cultural visiting Croatian conduc- Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 7pm Klemensoa 22, 11pm • Gopnik, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, park Zemun, 10pm Bojan Zulfikarpasic SUNDAY, DECEMBER 03 Concert and CD Promotion 7pm , tor Alan Bjelinski as the • Dusan Lilic, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, • Nervozni Postar + Last Thrill Ticket fees: 1200, 1500 dinars SATURDAY DECEMBER 02 7pm • D4L Festival, Belgrade Fair, Bozidarac, Radoslava Grujica 3, Concert Hall, 11am orchestra plays scores • Phillie P, Kaldrma bar, Skadarska Bulevar Vojvode Misica 14, 10pm 8pm Exhibition and concert: “World of Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Cham- TUESDAY, DECEMBER 12 and pieces inspired by Sound”, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, 40, 8pm • DVMIR, Secer Club, Svetogorska • Besne Gliste + JAL, , Elektropionir, ber Music Hollywood blockbuster Studenstki Trg 5, 11am th • Kezz, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 7pm 17, 11pm Cetinjska 15, 9pm 80 Anniversary of Faculty of Concert Hall, 8pm superheroes. Tickets are Exhibition: “About Love and • Ilija Djokovic All Night Long, DOT, • Cojke, Ludost bar, Karadjordjeva • 10 Years of Disco Not Disco Nick Music Soloists: Maja Rajkovic, piano, Porpoise”, Katarina Radovic, Remont Francuska 6, 11pm 44, 10pm the Record UK Dj Brka, 20/44 Production: Music Centre Belgrade between three and five Gallery, Marsala Birjuzova 7, 6pm Admission free Dennis Krasnokurtsky, viola, • 2000Late, Hangar, Knezopoljska Club, Usce bb, 11pm euros depending on seat- SUNDAY DECEMBER 03 3, 11pm SUNDAY DECEMBER 03 • POPactually Soirée: About USA WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 06 Bagdat Abilkhanov, violin, ing. 23rd Auteur Film Festival, different • Young, Secer Club, Svetogorska 17, Lorna, Weird Fishes + DJ Set, Astana 11pm • Gipsy Jazz, Polet, Cetinjska 15, 8pm Grad Cultural Center, Brace locations, 12pm Music Gallery, 6pm Aisulu Baikenova, violin, Nutcracker Book promotion “Twin flames”, Dr • George Michael Night, Dzezva bar, • Elina, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Krsmanovica 4, 11pm Cycle: Encounter with an Artist Astana Svetlana Goga Kostic, Akademija 28, Cara Urosa 19, 8pm • Ethan Hunt, Ljubimac, Cetinjska • DJ Sasha, Hangar, Knezopoljska Soloists: Jelena Rokvic, violin Guest: Maurizio Bignone, com- on Ice Back this Nemanjina 28, 7pm • Franky Rizardo, Hype, 15, 7pm 3, 10pm Katarina Hadzi Antic Tatic, piano poser, Palermo December Karadjordjeva 46, 11:30pm • Madjijanje, Club Petak, Lomina • UnderCover live, Imago CUK Production: Music Centre Programme: S. Rachmaninoff, MONDAY DECEMBER 04 • Miss Millie, Ludost bar, 14, 9pm Decanska 14, 11pm Admission free C. Cook, Z. Eric, M. Bignone, Y. Brusilovsky, V. Milankovic, A. One of the most popular Exhibition: “Box 4”, ULUPUDS Gallery, Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm • Belgrade Afterhours | Mancha • Sofa Kru, Codex & Untek, KPTM, Uzun Mirkova 12, 7pm Vujic & Mark Panic, KPTM, Zorza Zorza Klemensoa 22, 11pm THURSDAY, DECEMBER 07 ballets in the world, Tchai- Exhibition: “15 Pearls of Spain”, Institut Ticket fees: 500 dinars SATURDAY DECEMBER 02 Klemensoa 22, 4am • Boston 168 LIVE presented kovsky's "Nutcracker" is Servantes, Cika Ljubina 19, 7pm Concert Hall, 8pm Exhibition: “Enthusiast Flies to • Vlansiranje, Secer Club, by TRIII, Drugstore, Boulevard transformed through fig- Philharmania(c) WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 13 Three Stories, the title series of the show, brings together multiple artists approaching Photo: Courtesy of Kvaka 22 Belgrade”, Dima Pantjusin, Grad Cultural • Vampiri & Tikilas, Bozidarac, Svetogorska 17, 10pm Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra ure-skating thanks to the the same subject through three separate narratives. Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 8pm Radoslava Grujica 3, 8pm • Sunday Beat (techno/tech • Cojke, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva Conductor: Hans Graf Concert Hall, 8pm celebrated Russian State • Serpa Plavo Trio, Gastro Bar 20/44, house), Mr. Stefan Braun, 44, 10pm Soloist: Sergey Babayan, piano Cycle: Music Workshop TUESDAY DECEMBER 05 I. Stravinsky, P. I. Concert/ Vocal Department of Ballet from St. Petersburg, Skadarska 40b, 8pm Nemanjina 4, 12am Programme: Self-organization of non-linear • Entropija, Kvaka 22, Ruzveltova SUNDAY DECEMBER 10 Tchaikovsky, S. Rachmaninoff Faculty of Music and they're coming to imbalance systems Lecture, Ilija M. 39, 9pm MONDAY DECEMBER 04 Production: Belgrade Philhar- Production: Music Centre Belgrade's Sava Centar on Kolarac Endowment, Studenstki trg 5, monic Orchestra • Sick Touch, Zappa Barka, Usce bb, • Boston 168 – Official after, KPTM, Admission free The Many Stories 6pm December 6 after a suc- “In the Fresh Air With… Uros Djuric”, Zorza Klemensoa 22, 4am 10pm • Solstafir + Myrkur, Dom FRIDAY, DECEMBER 08 THURSDAY, DECEMBER 14 cessful show last year. The Center for Art Education Sumatovacka, • Di Luna Blues, Soul Society, Mira Omladine, Makedonska 22, 8pm • Sunday Beat (techno/tech Sumatovacka 122, 6pm tickets are anywhere from Trailovic Square, 10pm • Hot Chocolate (RnB/Hip-Hop), Mr. house), Mr. Stefan Braun, Concert Hall, 8pm Concert Hall, 8:30pm of Kvaka 22 WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 06 • Beach Alarm, Polet, Cetinjska 15, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 12am Nemanjina 4, 12am Earth Folk pop/rock band Garavi €15 and €25 depending on 8:30pm Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra sokak seating. Failure as Your Next Success Tribune, Hans Graf 1000 dinars TUESDAY DECEMBER 05 MONDAY DECEMBER 11 Conductor: Ticket fees: approaching the same subject through After the fall of Yugoslavia, the Studenstki Grad Cultural Center, Soloist: Sergey Babayan, piano Boulevard Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm th A former Yugoslav three separate narratives, searching for former repair shop stayed open for • Demo Fest, Fest Club, Gradski park • Hot Chocolate (RnB/Hip-Hop), Mr. Programme: I. Stravinsky, P. I. FRIDAY, DECEMBER 15 14 Belgrade Biennale of Ceramics, RTS Gallery, Takovska 10, 7pm Zemun, 9pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 12am Tchaikovsky, S. Rachmaninoff Wine Salon at instrument repair elements in which the stories converge a short while, then closed about a Production: Belgrade Philhar- Concert hall, 8pm and the points at which they break off decade ago. But no-one ever came to The First Wave of the British Punk • Malinada, Ludost bar, monic Orchestra Fire Hyatt Hotel Movement Lecture, Studentski Grad Karadjordjeva 44, 9pm TUESDAY DECEMBER 12 from each other. In doing so, it examines claim the objects from shop's previ- Cultural Centre, Boulevard Zorana Conductor: Michail Jurowski shop turned art Djindjica 179, 7pm • Dizel Night, Mr. Stefan Braun, SATURDAY, DECEMBER 09 Soloist: Narek Hakhnazaryan, Serbia's most exciting the delicate difference between the real ous life, so the new tenants decided to Nemanjina 4, 12am • Kerber, Sava Center, Milentija violoncello event for wine lovers, the space plays host to and the imagined through an exploration bring them out, dust them off and put THURSDAY DECEMBER 07 • Big Dance Party, Dorcol Platz, Popovica 9, 8:30pm Concert Hall, 8pm Academic Choir Collegium of the artistic method itself and even the them on display. Dobracina 59b, 8pm • Demo Fest, Fest Club, Gradski Park FMU Symphony Orchestra & Musicum Belgrade Wine Salon, is Book Presentation, “Mirror Repairer”, stories of the new actual purpose of artistic representation. Old musical instruments, parts, Zemun, 9pm Choir Collegium Musicum Programme: R. Schumann, F. in its 14th year on Decem- Franja Petrinovic, Cultural Centre of Belgrade, Trg Republike 5, 12pm WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 06 • Jazzanova Live feat. Paul Conductor: Bojan Sudjic Liszt Curated alongside the series Stereo, the strange little tools and gadgets for re- Beethoven Belgrade Philhar- ber 8 and 9 at the Hyatt Exhibition: “Photo Documents”, Randolph, BitfArtCafe, Mitropolita Programme: Production: among objects of show goes further into the arc and meth- pairing broken instruments, as well Production: Faculty of Music monic Orchestra Regency Hotel. By buying Miladinovic/Hasanovic/Klickovic, • SLJUKA, Soul Society, Mira Petra 8, 10pm ods of visual storytelling. Stereo brings a as tons of sheet music, vinyl records, Cultural Centre of Belgrade, Kolarceva Admission Free a 12-euro ticket (daily the past. 6, 6pm Trailovic Square, 10pm • Malinada, Ludost bar, SUNDAY, DECEMBER 17 retrospective approach to contemporary audio and video tapes, songbooks, voucher) you get to try International Queer Film Festival FREE COPY • Jim Morrison Night, Polet, Karadjordjeva 44, 9pm SUNDAY, DECEMBER 10 visual content by combining analogue pictures, inventory books, registers “Merlinka”, Dom Omladine, Cetinjska 15, 7:30pm • Dizel Night, Mr. Stefan Braun, Concert Hall, 11am all the wines and food, and digital means of artistic production. and documents tell tales of a time Makedonska 22, 7pm • Karaoke, Club Petak, Lomina 14, Nemanjina 4, 12am Concert Hall, 11am Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. connoisseurs might opt for David GALIC By digitally processing pictures taken gone by. 9pm Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Cham- Chamber Music FRIDAY DECEMBER 08 Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade the exclusive Wine Masters with an old Sputnik camera from the It took eight months to clean, repair • Mastering w/ Gramophonedzie WEDNESDAY DECEMBER 13 ber Music Jazz Department of Faculty of th Family Uhdes Concert Music 9 New Year's auction of Arte Gallery, Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 & Oysha, Ludost bar, program at about €35 a ome call it a squat, others 1950s, for example, Stereo winds up pro- and sort everything before organising Progres Gallery, Zmaj Jovina 8-10, 6pm Mihael, piano, Katarina, Music Centre Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm • Karaoke, Club Petak, Lomina 14, Soloists: Production: ticket. a "reclaimed space". But ducing a unique visual expression. the exhibition itself and defining its 145 years of the Serbian Medical Editor in Chief: Gordana Igric violin, Admission free • Girls are gonna get wild! (house), 9pm try pinning a definition on Camera Daily takes a more literal artistic, cultural and historical context Society, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, BIRN editorial team: Gabriel, viola, Sanja, cello & guest Studenstki Trg 5, 6pm Gordana Andric, Marcus Tanner, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, • Mastering w/ Gramophonedzie Jurija Otaki Gallery '73 Kvaka 22 (Catch 22), an inde- approach. Serving as the artists' pho- and possible interpretations. 3rd Festival of Roma Culture and 12am & Oysha, Ludost Bar, pendent art and culture cen- tographic diaries, this series immerses After that, many hours of work went Activism “Frka”, Dom Omladine, belgradeinsighteditor@birn. Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Turns into Makedonska 22, 8pm Stre truly unique in Belgrade, and you'll us in their daily lives and perhaps, by into "virtualising" the material and eu.com THURSDAY DECEMBER 07 • Girls are gonna get wild! (house), Playground SATURDAY DECEMBER 09 Sales & Marketing: Marija Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, probably be left in the double bind of viewing the unique series of things putting up an interactive website dedi- Petrovic • Mariza, Sava Centar, Milentija 12am "Playground", an exhi- missing something out. they themselves see and experience in cated to it, with the help of the German Exhibition: “The Diary of Walking– Graz Sessions”, Nina Todorovic, Ilija Phone: +381 11 4030 302 Popovica 9, 8:30pm bition of drawing and Once an abandoned musical instru- their everyday lives, we glimpse some- Goethe Institute in Belgrade. • Scorpions, Stark Arena, Bulevar THURSDAY DECEMBER 14 ment repair shop left to decay, the com- thing of the artists' perspectives. The exhibition forms valuable docu- M. Kolarac Endowment, Studenstki Trg [email protected] sculpture from Magda- 5, 6pm Arsenija Carnojevica 58, 9pm munity at Kvaka 22 have transformed it Opening December 1 and running mentation of a societal artefact lost to Subscription & Distribution: lena Miocinovic-Andric, • Aleksandra Duende b2b Nic • Nikola Vranjkovic, Dom TRA T T O R I A into a gallery, bar and concert venue to until it closes, the exhibition is a new time and of some of the elements that SUNDAY DECEMBER 10 Lawyer / Subjugate, DOT, Omladine, Makedonska 22, 8pm Dragana Stankovic and Goran Knezevic give a platform to young, independent chance to catch some of the fresh and served to promote the values of that Francuska 6, 11pm • Garavi Sokak, Ilija M. Kolarac PIZZER I A Photo Stock Market, Dorcol Platz +381 63 562 265 Beata Rostas, represents a underground artists. emerging Serbian artists that Kvaka society – strong antifascist ideology, Dobracina 59b, 12pm [email protected] • RNB Thursday's Delight, Endowment, Studenstki trg 5, correspondence between Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11.30pm 8:30pm Having previously catered exclusive- 22 was set up to foreground. Vidoje dedication to a permanent revolution MONDAY DECEMBER 11 Printing: POLITIKA stamparija • Bojana Vunturisevic, UK Parobrod, the three artists, docu- ly to the military bands and orchestras Vujatovic, Borko Djordjevic, Ana Me- but also a quiet, "normal", everyday life d.o.o. FRIDAY DECEMBER 08 Kapetan Misina 6a, 8:30pm menting their life cycles of the former Yugoslavia, the building lentijevic, Miroslav Misic, Uros Petrov, of all those living in Yugoslavia, regard- Anglo-American Deception Tribune, Nebojsina 8 Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, 7pm ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade • Repetitor, Kvaka 22, Ruzveltova and roles, viewing life as 011/3863-999 itself clearly has stories to tell. But in its Milan Radojcic and Luka Trajkovic are less of their nationality, ethnicity or ContemPottery, Grad Cultural Centre, Insight • Guns N' Roses Real Tribute 39, 10pm a playground of sorts. The new life, this December it's been given all third-year students of Camera at the religion. Brace Krsmanovica 4, 8pm + Nirvana Tribute, Bozidarac, • Gnjile, Grad Cultural Centre, Brace [email protected] COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 show opens from Decem- over to a new photography exhibition Belgrade Faculty of Drama. Kvaka 22 is at Ruzveltova 39, Palilula. Radoslava Grujica 3, 8pm Krsmanovica 4, 9pm www.restoranamici.rs TUESDAY DECEMBER 12 Circulation: 2,000 ber 7-19 at Gallery '73, in focusing on the idea of the story itself. Kvaka 22's permanent exhibition, on To find out more about the permanent • Samostalni Referenti, Deep • Olga Korol, DOT, Francuska 6, 11pm New Books by Carlos Fuentes, Steady, Magic Bush, School Bus, • RNB Thursday's Delight, Belgrade's Banovo Brdo Three Stories, the title series of the the other hand, is dedicated to its own exhibition and Three Stories, visit their Studentski Grad Cultural Centrer, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 8pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11:30pm neighbourhood. show, brings together multiple artists story. official website: www.kvaka22.com. Boulevard Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 15 GOING OUT THEN AND NOW Ljubimac

comer Ljubimac stands out from the With so many crowd. Right next to Zaokret, the first bar to new bars in open here, Ljubimac is fairly small, be- ing much longer than it is wide. But with Cetinjska Street's two separate areas, dividing day and night and one mood from another, the abandoned place makes up for its size. Without being physically separate, warehouses, going the design of the bar changes as you make your way inside. Just inside the for a drink can be doors, the day area basically looks like an old lady's living room. With comfy a tough decision. couches and sofas, antique-looking lamps and other details, it almost feels But because as if you're hanging out at your grand- mother's home. newcomer It's a great place to get a coffee dur- ing the day and the fast Internet and Ljubimac has quiet ambience makes it an especially popular co-working space for freelanc- Pharmacy Dr. Matej Ivanovic was reconstructed in 1987 and Andric’s late father carved Photo: Prosveta Koprodukcija/Umetnicki Portret What is particularly striking is the ornamental glass Photo: BIRN/Siri Sollie a bit of a split ers who'd prefer to get out of the house. the wooden ornaments such as the medicine cabinets. Arhitekte Tomislava Markovica ceiling, which resembles a fresco painting. Once you start heading down the personality, both long corridor, you'll be part of a transfor- mation. Leaving the "living room" area, Jekyll and Hyde you come into an L-spaced bar sur- rounded by industrial light fixtures and have a place a more stripped-down, modern fit-out. Belgrade Holds Traces of Sure, this kind of post-industrial de- to go. sign is being used by at least 80 per cent of Belgrade's trendiest bars now, but the fact that Ljubimac has both "grandma's Wood Carvers’ Golden Age living room" and the pared-back indus- David GALIC trial thing going is what sets it apart. And this split personality is reflected public buildings designed at the time operates now under the slightly altered from photographs. The wooden medical f you've been going out to bars in the bar's genesis. Ljubimac's (pet in A handful of Siri SOLLIE scorned the style and fashion of the pre- name of “Apoteka Beograd – Dr Matej cabinets as well as the counting desk are and clubs in Belgrade over the Serbian) owner originally wanted to war buildings that had preceded them. Ivanovic”, at Knez Mihailova street 27. just as they were, all hand-made by An- last couple of years, then you make beer, getting the name, logo and The music at Ljubimac starts off with mostly electronic tracks and an occasional guest DJ. Photo: Facebook/Ljubimac sites in the city, he art of woodcarving reached “It was not for a decade or two after that, Dr Ivanovic started the very first phar- dric senior. know all about the many clubs stickers all sorted out before the brew. its prime in Serbia before the that interest in wood carving revived once macy in Serbia, located initially next to What is particularly striking, however, and bars that sprouted up on Ce- And then it fell through. Having the This means that, at least in the even- if you want conversation, you might be With Ljubimac celebrating one year such as the old Second World War. In those again,” Andric adds. one of the oldest cafés in Belgrade, the is the ornamental glass ceiling, which re- Itinjska Street in the abandoned ware- branding all ready, he slapped it onto ing, like most of the top spots in Cetin- better off taking a day trip to grandma's since this weird creation was brought days, a corps of wood carv- “The art in the meantime had survived much-loved landmark “Znak Pitanja” sembles a fresco painting. houses of the brewery. this new creation and the Ljubimac jska, Ljubimac is more of a "pre-party" loungeroom. to life on December 1, this weekend pharmacy in ers and craftsmen flourished, on the backs of a trickle of private orders, or [“Question Mark”], at Kralja Petra, 6. Besides the pharmacy in Knez Mi- Cetinjska has become the main hub Frankenstein was born. place, where you might go for drinks Most of the Ljubimac crowd are might be the perfect time to head over Twhose mission was to decorate the inte- if someone wanted to restore old furniture Back in 1830, when the new Serbian hailova, Andric also decorated the inte- of the city's bar scene after many of Sa- As with all the bars and clubs in Ce- before you head out to a club that goes standard for the Cetinjska scene, cool and check it out. Knez Mihailova riors all the important institutions in the – but there were no serious orders and they principality was still part of the Ottoman rior of the pharmacy in Njegoseva street, vamala's most popular bars and clubs tinjska, opening hours are strict since all night. young Belgraders between 25 and 35. street, cast our country, such as the parliament and the Na- [the carvers] barely survived,” he notes. Empire, Dr Ivanovic got permission from close to Cvetni Trg. were forced to relocate when the Bel- the whole complex is surrounded by And the music here will start you off, There are no surprises when it comes LJUBIMAC tional Bank, both in the capital and beyond. Owing to the lack of demand for their the Ottoman authorities and from Prince “There are still an interest in wood grade Waterfront project took over. residential buildings. Several protests with mostly electronic tracks and the to the drinks either, though there are a minds back to “The craft came from Europe, or they work, many former wood carvers had in Milos Obrenovic to open the first chemist carving today but the industrial revolu- It's hard to imagine there'd be any have forced bar and club owners to occasional guest DJ. Even though the couple local bottled craft beers like Dor- Address: Cetinjska 15 [the craftsmen] learned their trade from the mean time changed their profession. in the city. tion has wiped out much of the crafts- more room for new bars in the area, but close at midnight during the week and vibe is a bit more relaxed than you'd colac, Salto and Bunt99. Prices are very Contact: facebook.com/ a time before European masters, such as Germans, Andric´s father, however, remained in It was located there until 1938 before manship,” Andric laments. “American somehow they keep popping up. New- 1 am on weekends. find at a real club, it's still pretty loud. So, reasonable. ljubimacUsrcuGrada Hungarians who had students here in Bel- the trade. After finishing a degree at the re-opening years later, in 1964, at its new machines can do the work much faster plastic and grade, who developed their work,” Milan Faculty of Applied Arts he started working address in Knez Mihailova. and faster than wooden craftsmen,” he Andric, Conservator at the Museum of Ap- as a professor and wood conservator at At the old site in Kralj Petra, the Phar- says. concrete, when plied Arts in Belgrade, recalls. the same faculty. macist Society of Belgrade put up a sign “But in terms of the restoration of old Legendary Scorpions Berlin Record Label Andric’s own father, Radivoje, was one of As renewed interest in wooden orna- in honour of the old pharmacy, which is buildings like the National Bank and wood carving the top wood carvers chosen to furnish and mentation rose in the late-1970s and the still visible. the parliament… when it comes to those Play First Belgrade Show Tresor at Drugstore was in its prime. decorate the interiors of prestigious build- early 1980s, a group of architects includ- As for the new pharmacy in Knez Mi- restorations of interiors, there is still de- ings and public institutions in Belgrade. ing Tomislav Markovic received commis- hailova, on the instructions of Tomislav mand for wood carvers,” he adds. ne of the most popular and successful German elgrade's best underground clubbing spot Drugstore has However, in the 1950s and 1960s, both sions from public companies, such as the Markovic, it was reconstructed in 1987 Andric adds that time and money hard rock bands of all time, Scorpions, will play recently been very busy assembling programmes featur- government policies and artistic fashions pharmaceutical company Srbolek, to use and Andric’s late father carved the wood- shortages, as well as new technology, their first ever Belgrade gig on December 7 at ing foreign clubs and labels, like Leipzig's Institut Fuer changed. wooden decorations in the new buildings en ornaments such as the medicine cabi- have helped to destroy his father’s craft. Othe Kombank Arena. Believe it or not, Scorpi- BZukunft and Milan's Macao. Now they are hooking up In the now Communist state, woodcarv- it wanted built. nets. “The market is not ready to pay these ons have been playing for over half a century and sold with iconic Berlin record label Tresor for a special event on De- ing and ornamentation was now looked One was a public pharmacy, “Srbolek The interior of the pharmacy is just craftsmen enough for them to live from more than 100 million albums over the course of their cember 1. There will be two popular producers from the Tresor down on as a relic of bourgeois taste. New - Dr Matej Ivanovic”, which survives but as it was installed in 1987, as you can tell their profession,” he concludes. illustrious career. family spinning tunes at Drugstore – Moritz von Oswals and Even though the band has been touring the world for Mareena. the better part of 50 years, they have never played in Bel- Tresor has been around since 1991. Initially an art gallery, it grade. Serbian fans can expect all the band's greatest hits, later became a record label and club. It is just as relevant in the including popular ballads like "Send Me an Angel," "Winds world of rave culture as it was 20 years ago, despite the original of Change," and of course, "Rock You Like a Hurricane". Tick- building having been demolished in 2005. Tickets will cost 6 euros ets for the event cost between €25 and €40 depending on seats. on the door.

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A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO NEWS AND ANALYSIS OUR PREMIUM CONTENT IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE New Stars of Scandinavian GusGus Collective at Hangar Serbian Black Metal Sweden's Albion DJs 20/44 Big Salsa Party at for in-depth analysis, Metal in Dom Omladine Veterans Launch New Album Barrio Latino Belgrade investigative reports, Yet another musical attraction from Albion is widely reputed to be one of the features, interviews, Two excellent European metal bands Iceland is playing in Belgrade this week. One of the most prominent and suc- absolute best disco DJs in the world. A Anyone who loves dancing salsa should commentary and profiles will be playing Dom Omladine on De- GusGus is a collective of musicians, cessful underground metal band from knowledgeable producer and tremen- head over to Barrio Latino Belgrade on on the latest business and cember 4. The show will be headlined by producers and film makers who work to- Serbia, The Stone will be playing Dom dous live performer, Albion spins dreamy December 2 in Dobracina Street for a big political headlines. Iceland's Solstafir, who perform a beauti- gether to create fascinating yet extremely Omladine on December 9 to promote disco music that manages to move party. According to the organisers, rakija ful amalgam of post rock and metal. The danceable electronic music. They are their new album Teatar Apsurda, which towards rock, pop, afro and folk while still will be free for all males in attendance and support band will be Myrkur, a female- known for always using advanced tech- will have its official release on the same remaining upbeat and engaging the entire there will be a cocktail promotion. Organis- fronted black metal band from Denmark nology to create their music but never day. Supporting them at the show will time. As the founder of Sweden's most ex- ers have taken care to point out that the OTHER SERVICES: that has recently been receiving reams lose the classic funkiness that draws peo- be dark metal masters Avenger from the citing music festivals, Camp Cosmic, he is club's dancefloor is smoke free and the of positive press, despite irritating many ple in. The show will be on December 8 at Czech Republic and Organoid, a new quite simply one of the most sought-after building well-ventilated, which is hard to genre purists. Tickets will cost €20 on Hangar near the Belgrade Port and tickets death/thrash metal band from Serbia. disco DJs in Europe. Tickets will cost 5 eu- find in Belgrade. The party starts at 10pm the door on the night of the show. will cost between six and 10 euros. Tickets will cost €12 on the door. ros on the door at 20/44 on December 8. and it only costs 1 euro on the door to get in. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, December 01 - Thursday, December 21, 2017 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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