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Jönsson, Håkan; Burstedt, Anna The return of traditional food Lysaght, Patricia; Jönsson, Håkan; Burstedt, Anna 2013 Link to publication Citation for published version (APA): Lysaght, P., Jönsson, H., & Burstedt, A. (2013). The return of traditional food. (Lunds Studies in Arts and Cultural Sciences; Vol. 1). Lund University. Total number of authors: 3 General rights Unless other specific re-use rights are stated the following general rights apply: Copyright and moral rights for the publications made accessible in the public portal are retained by the authors and/or other copyright owners and it is a condition of accessing publications that users recognise and abide by the legal requirements associated with these rights. • Users may download and print one copy of any publication from the public portal for the purpose of private study or research. • You may not further distribute the material or use it for any profit-making activity or commercial gain • You may freely distribute the URL identifying the publication in the public portal Read more about Creative commons licenses: https://creativecommons.org/licenses/ Take down policy If you believe that this document breaches copyright please contact us providing details, and we will remove access to the work immediately and investigate your claim. LUND UNIVERSITY PO Box 117 221 00 Lund +46 46-222 00 00 The Return of Traditional Food The Return of Traditional Food Proceedings of the 19th International Ethnological Food Research Conference, Department of Arts and Cultural Sciences, Lund University, Sweden, 15-18 August, 2012 Patricia Lysaght Editor Lund Studies in Arts and Cultural Sciences 1 Lund University Lund 2013 Lund Studies in Arts and Cultural Sciences is a series of monographs and edited volumes of high scholarly quality in subjects related to the Department of Arts and Cultural Sciences at Lund University. An editorial board decides on issues concerning publication. All texts have been peer reviewed prior to publication. www.kultur.lu.se The support of the following institutions is gratefully acknowledged: The Royal Swedish Academy of Letters, History and Antiquities The Royal Gustavus Adolphus Academy for Swedish Folk Culture Skåne Food Innovation Network/Taste of Skåne Cover design and photography: Johan Laserna © The editor and authors severally 2013 ISBN 978-91-7267-357-1 Printed in Sweden by Media-Tryck, Lund University En del av Förpacknings- och Tidningsinsamlingen (FTI) 2 Contents Opening Address 7 The 19th International Ethnological Food Research Conference, Lund 2012 9 Nils-Arvid Bringéus, (Sweden) Introduction 13 Introduction The Return of Traditional Food 15 Patricia Lysaght, (Ireland) Keynote Lecture 27 Sustainability and Fundamentalism. Moral Investment and Culinary Hedonism 29 Konrad Köstlin, (Austria) Part I: The New Nordic Kitchen 41 Keynote Lecture The New Nordic Diet and Danish Food Culture 43 Bi Skaarup, (Denmark) The Road to the New Nordic Kitchen – Examples from Sweden 53 Håkan Jönsson, (Sweden) Foraging for Nordic Wild Food. Introducing Nordic Island Terroir 68 Hanne Pico Larsen and Susanne Österlund-Pötzsch, (USA, Finland) Part II: Revitalisation and Transformation 79 Small-scale Farm Dairies in Jämtland. Ancient Practices in Modern Forms 81 Madeleine Bonow and Paulina Rytkönen, (Sweden) The Revitalisation of Rural Products in Slovenia: From Simple Food to Culinary Attraction 94 Maja Godina Golija, (Slovenia) 3 Hunger and Abundance: Food Heritage and Bringing Tradition Back on the Plate 104 Tina Novak Pucer, (Slovenia) Farmers’ Markets in Poland: Revitalisation of Traditional Food Products 113 Violetta Krawczyk-Wasilewska and Katarzyna Orszulak-Dudkowska, (Poland) The Return of the Wood-fired Baking Oven in Hungary 118 Anikó Báti, (Hungary) The Return of Some Traditional French Preserves 128 Renée Valeri, (Sweden) The Revival of Traditional Food in Contemporary Japan 136 Naoto Minami, (Japan) The Cyprus Food and Nutrition Virtual Museum. An Attempt to Preserve and Disseminate Knowledge about Past Foodways and Controversial Issues Regarding the Revival of Traditional Food 146 Antonia-Leda Matalas,Crystalleni Lazarou and Yiorgos Chrysanthou, (Greece, Cyprus) Part III: Commercialisation of Food Traditions 153 Luxury Restaurants and Fine Dining: A Discussion about Taste 155 Anna Burstedt, (Sweden) Fine Cheese and the Consumption of ‘Tradition’ in Quebec 171 Manon Boulianne, (Canada) The Importance of Being Traditional: Local Food between Commercialisation and Symbolic Construction 180 Sonja Böder, (Germany) Cinnamon Bread: A Reinvented Tradition in a Rural Brazilian Village 191 Rogéria Campos de Almeida Dutra, (Brazil) Continuity and Change: The Choice of Food for Gastro-Festivals around the Turn of the Millennium 197 Eszter Kisbán, (Hungary) Medieval Food Re-enactments in the Netherlands 209 Johanna Maria van Winter, (The Netherlands) The Marshmallow Metamorphosis 217 Shirley Cherkasky, (USA) 4 Part IV: Traditional Foodways and the Immigrant Process 227 The Transformation of Traditional Foodways in the Bosnian American Community 229 William G. Lockwood and Yvonne R. Lockwood, (USA) University Students, Foodways, and the Immigrant Process 241 Janet C. Gilmore, (USA) The Foods of Immigrant Memory 250 Adelia Hanson, (USA) Part V: In Search of Traditional Food 259 In Search of Traditional Food: Some Reflections on Contemporary Food Culture in Russia 261 Tatiana Voronina, (Russia) Tradition under the Microscope: The Scottish Cuisine 271 Una A. Robertson, (Scotland) Making ‘Traditional Food’ – Local Interpretations of a European Protection-System 278 Sarah May, (Germany) Traditional Bread and Butter Culture in German Schools 288 Silke Bartsch, (Germany) List of Contributors 301 International Commission for Ethnological Food Research: Conferences, Themes and Publications (1970-2013) 309 5 6 Opening Address 7 8 The 19th International Ethnological Food Research Conference, Lund 2012 Nils-Arvid Bringéus Welcome to this 19th international conference of ethnological food research. The first such conference was organised here in Lund in 1970, and I am delighted that my present successor has taken the initiative of once more arranging a conference in Lund. The earlier one was held in the municipal library, where one could, in a natural way, acquire a historical background for ethnological food research, for outside the municipal library there stands a statue of Carl von Linné, known as the king of flowers because of his importance in promoting and systematising botany. Linné’s interest in flora and fauna, however, extended not only to their reproductive system but also to their role as material for human consumption. Dieta naturalis, ‘On a Natural Way of Living’, is the title that he gave to his lectures on food and drink in Uppsala in 1735. As was the case with his botany, he sought less to gain knowledge from learned tomes than from practical observations of what people ate and drank in various parts of the country. Linné did not consider himself too superior to draw attention to everyday food habits in individual districts. He studied similarities but also differences in such habits. This is what ethnologists also started to do after the Second World War, when the comparative method was greatly assisted by maps based on local information. Admittedly, it was not exactly food habits that were first mapped but costumes, styles of building, customs and habits. German ethnologists had, however, already demonstrated that local dishes were suitable for mapping. On the basis of material collected in the 1930s, the German ethnologist Günter Wiegelman presented his professorial thesis Alltags- und Festspeisen: Wandel und gegenwärtige Stellung 1967, which one could say led to ethnological food research acquiring academic status. Why did it take so long? Probably as a result of concurrent factors. The preparation of food took place in enclosed spaces both at home and in restaurants. It did not take place out in the open, on the visible front stage but back stage – to use terminology employed by the sociologist E. Goffman (The Presentation of Self in Everyday Life, 1959). In addition, home preparation of food was carried out by women, and it did not have the same status as many male occupations. When domestic science became part of the school curriculum, it was only for girls. So it is hardly surprising that food research was lacking at the universities. Food was quite simply not regarded 9 as a presentable topic for research. During my time as a student, we used to eat in so- called matlag (sittings), morning, midday and evening – teams that comprised a blend of theologians, law students, medical students and humanists. All of us required food, but we hardly commented on what we ate. The social dimension was more important to us. On the folklore syllabus there was nothing to be found about food. When I published a book with the title Mat och miljö (‘Food and Environment’) in 1970, it was the first time that food had been included on the syllabus, with a small special course at Lund University for five credits that could be taken as an alternative among other courses. Even so, it was perhaps not food as such that enticed me personally, rather the chance of using food as a point of departure for studying cultural areas and cultural boundaries that had then come to acquire key importance within folklore studies. A great advantage of food research was that it was so tradition-bound. Present-day maps could also be used to interpret historical courses of events. Even the radio could be used for collecting
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