ADRIATIC COAST and Suppingthelocalvinoinoutdoorcafes Betweentheoleanders

© Lonely Planet Publications 94 Adriatic Coast If coastlines could enter an equivalent of the Eurovision Song Contest, the bookies would surely back the eastern Adriatic – and not just because of Balkan block-voting either. Like the Bay of Kotor, it’s the juxtaposition of mountains and sea that sends the spirit soaring, although unlike the bay it’s a less closed-in, sunnier vibe that’s engendered here and the water’s even clearer. Croatia may hog most of the coast but Montenegro’s tiny section packs a lot into a very small area (a bit like the country itself). Without the buffer of Croatia’s islands, more of Montenegro’s shoreline has developed into sandy beaches, culminating in a 12km continu- ous stretch leading to the Albanian border. Unsurprisingly, much of the nation’s determination to reinvent itself as a tourist mecca has focused firmly on this scant 100km coastal region. In July and August it seems that the entire Serbian world and a fair chunk of its northern Orthodox brethren can be found crammed into it. Avoid those months and you’ll find a charismatic clutch of small towns and fishing villages to explore. Living on the fault line between various civilisations, the people of the coast have forti- fied their settlements since ancient times. That legacy can be explored in the lively bars and shops of Budva’s Old Town, the surreal glamour of Sveti Stefan’s village resort, the ramshackle ADRIATIC COAST residences within Ulcinj’s fortifications and, most evocatively, the lonely and mysterious ruins of Haj-Nehaj, Stari Bar and Svač. Otherwise just spend your days lazing beside azure waters and supping the local vino in outdoor cafes between the oleanders. HIGHLIGHTS Gazing in wonder at the cutesy beauty of the walled island of Sveti Stefan ( p103 ) Budva's Old Town Soaking up the summer beachside buzz of Sveti Stefan Eastern-tinged Ulcinj ( p114 ) Petrovac Hiking to the atmospheric solitude of the ruined Haj-Nehaj fortress ( p113 ) Haj-Nehaj Fortress Bays North of Bar Letting the kids off the leash in Petrovac ( p107 ) Snorkelling around the rocky bays north of Bar ( p111 ) Ulcinj Scoffing a big bowl of fish soup in a stilt-house overhanging the Bojana River ( p118 ) Bojana River Watching the passing parade of beautiful people over the rim of a coffee cup in the cobbled laneways of Budva’s Old Town ( p97 ) lonelyplanet.com ADRIATIC COAST •• History 95 0 20 km ADRIATIC COAST 0 10 miles Mt Lov™en (1749m) Cetinje a Cijevn Lov™en National Rvaši Podgorica Tuzi Park Airport Rijeka Crnojevi™a Golubovci Hani i Hotit BoÅa Rijeøani Lapøi™i Braji™i Zeta Budva Podhum Jaz Beach Rafailovi™i Beøi™i Lashaj St Nicholas’ Island PrÅno Queen’s Beach Vranjina Miloøer Beach Sveti Stefan Virpazar Drobni Pijesak Lake Rijeka ReÅevi™i Skadar ReÅevi™i Monastery Lake Petrovac Skadar Kopljik Buljarica Beach National Park Muri™i Sutomore Haj-Nehaj Fortress Bobovište Brca Tu‹emili Stari Bar Bar Ckla ADRIATIC COAST Peøurice Krute Muricani 42°N Sukobin Vladimir Kru™e Svaø Lake Šas ALBANIA Ulcinj Milena Canal Štoj Velika PlaÅa Bojana River Ada Bojana 19°E To Bari (Italy) History defeated and disappeared from human his- From the 4th century BC the Ancient Greeks tory, but the Slavs were another story. One set up colonies along the Illyrian-controlled group, the Serbs, had reached this part of the coast, such as Bouthoe (Budva). Once the coast by the 7th century and put down roots, Romans had completely smashed Illyria in organising into small clans. These eventually 168 BC, the region was incorporated into their became part of the principality of Duklja (later province of Dalmatia and for over 500 years it called Zeta), Montenegro’s antecedent. benefited from its position near the centre of Although beholden to Byzantium, the a great empire. When the decision was made coastal towns were also influenced by the Latin to split the Roman Empire in two, the border- west due in part to the increasing naval power line crossed this section of the coast, leaving of Venice . In 1089, only 35 years after the most of it within the Greek-influenced eastern split of Christianity into Catholic (western) (Byzantine) half. and Orthodox (eastern) halves , the rulers of The ‘barbarian’ Avars poured into the area Duklja succeeded in negotiating the creation in the 6th century with only Budva (at the of a Catholic archdiocese in Bar. Eventually time called Butua) holding out as a bastion of Duklja was brought back into Byzantine con- Byzantine culture. The Avars were eventually trol and later incorporated into the Serbian .

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