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Some Notes on Recent Exploration in British New Guinea

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Some Notes on Recent Exploration in British New Guinea Some Notes on Recent Exploration in British New Guinea Author(s): Coutts Trotter Source: Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society and Monthly Record of Geography, New Monthly Series, Vol. 14, No. 11 (Nov., 1892), pp. 788-796 Published by: Wiley on behalf of The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1801527 . Accessed: 16/06/2014 19:58 Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at . http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp . JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) and Wiley are collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society and Monthly Record of Geography. http://www.jstor.org This content downloaded from 185.2.32.109 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 19:58:05 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions ( 788 ) Some Notes on Recent Exploration in British New Guinea.* By Cotjtts Trotter, Esq. It has been suggested to me, in view of the great importanceof the region, politically arid geographically,both to Australia and to ourselves,that I should put beforeyou?not for the firsttime, or, I am afraid,even forthe second?a few notes on what has recentlybeen done by us in British New Guinea; and although the last two years have produced no extensive geographical discoveriesthere, the informationgained during journeys undertakenprimarily for administrativepur- poses is by no means devoid of interest. How much remains to be done is evident fromthe mere factthat even along coasts previouslyvisited many useful,and some first-class,harbours have been discovered. Of course an indentedcoast, with its indentationsthemselves protected by an outlying barrier of reef islands, affords harboursof exceptional security. Among such may be mentioned a splendid and absolutely land-locked harbourin Duan (Normanby), one of the largest of the d'Entrecasteaux group,3 to 4 miles in diameter,the entrance of which had been quite concealedby a large island lying across its mouth,only leaving a passage into the harbour100 yards in width. The remarkableharbour of Losoa Doudou, on the west of OrangerieBay, about 2 miles by 1 mile, surroundedby wooded limestone hills, is completelysheltered in all weathers, and is perhaps the finest in the Possession. The inhabitants in the neighbourhood,and towards Milne Bay, formerlyso threateningand warlike, are noAVpeaceful and friendly,so that this harbour has now been thoroughlysurveyed. The northerncoast, however, from the German frontierdown wards as far as Collingwood Bay, is perhaps the quarter most highly favoured in this respect. It is a very picturesque region, and its elevated promontoriesare the home of a numerousand healthy population. Thus, althoughmuch of the soil, e.g., towards Mitre Rock and the Avestward,is poor and rocky,and again about Dyke Acland Bay low and swampy,so that the agricultural value of the districtis doubtful,it may offerfavourable openings to trade. A closerexamination of this regionseems for the firsttime to throwsome light on the question of volcanic activity in New Guinea. This has hitherto been thoughtto be confinedto islands on a line runningparallel with the northerncoasts; but on a recent occasion columns of steam were distinctlyseen risingfrom two of the crestsof Mount Victory,as well as fromcrevices and hollows in the surrounding ridges. The sides of the mountain are scored with brown lines, which Sir W. Macgregorthinks attributablenot to lava streams,but to landslips,and connected with the earthquakes prevalentin the neighbourhood. It must he noted, however, that no flameswere seen, that the natives in the immediatevicinity could give no informationon the subject,and that the point fromwhich the above phenomena were observedwas cstimatedto be quite 12 or 15 miles distant. It may be rememberedthat the only large area of comparativelylevel high lands as yet observed in the British territorywas viewed in this directionby the party which ascended Mount Owen Stanley, and it was accordinglyhoped that these tablelands might be accessible by means of some river-coursesdebouching in Collingwood or Holnicote Bay. No such river mouths,however, were noticed by the recentsurvey, though it is not impossible that such may still be foundamong the mangrove swamps. Surveying on such coasts is a less simple matter than * Paper read at the Edinburghmeeting of the BritishAssociation, August, 1892. This content downloaded from 185.2.32.109 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 19:58:05 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions SOME NOTES ON RECENT EXPLORATIONIN BRITISH NEW GUINEA. 789 might be supposed,and the difficultyis often increased by the great shallowness of the water formany miles fromthe shore,a circumstancewhich sometimesmakes it impossiblefor even the smallest boats to go in forfresh water. An expedition which started from Phillips Harbour, in Collingwood Bay, to attempt the ascent of Mount Suckling, after covering a distance direct of some 25 miles, at firstthrough swamps and afterwardsthrough thick forestwith a fair soil, reached an altitude of nearly 8000 feet on one of the spurs of this mountain, from whence a wide tract of rough and comparativelytreeless countrysloped up towards higher inland peaks. Above 6000 feet heavy rain occurredevery night. " " This was in the month of July. The Hornby Range of the charts was seen not to be an independentrange, but merelythe spurs of this centralchain. The very importantquestion, with a direct practical bearing on the future development of the country by resident Europeans, viz., whether among the inner ranges there exist any considerable tracts of tableland with a certain elevation,seems, therefore,as far fromsolution as ever, and it may not be unworthy the considerationof geographerswhether an efficientexpedition could be sent out to settlethis question. The south coast beyond our western frontierhas been visited; the country for the first 40 miles is an uninhabitable mangrove swamp; beyond that it improves,coco palms begin to alternatewith mangroves,and population is found. Here is probablythe home of the mysteriouspiratical Tugeri, a curiousdescription of whom has recentlyappeared, by a self-appointedmissionary named Montagu,who asserts that he has persuaded them to renounce their evil ways, and that our westerndistricts, hitherto periodically ravaged by them, are, therefore,now safe. But it may be prematureto accept all this. Some addition has been made towards our knowledge of the great delta of the Fly Eiver. A large stream,the Bamo, having a width of 1000 to 1500 yards, and a depth of 1^- to 5 fathoms,enters the estuaryof the Fly fromthe north,and its course was followedupwards for some 50 miles. The banks on both sides were in parts heavily timbered,with, in frequentalternation, large patches of sago palm, and considerabletracts of good cultivable land, liable, however,in parts,no doubt, to inundation. Strangely enough, however, though the population was pretty numerous, there was no sign that this land was ever under cultivation. Probably in this case the main staple of subsistence,besides the chase, is derived from the sago palm, the dependence on which is incidentally a great mark of savagery; forthe tribesin question, being free fromthe laboursof agriculture,can devote their time to raiding and plundering. The population of this district accordingly, though with few exceptions willing to trade, were found by Sir W. Macgregor equally willing to right, and collisions were only avoided by consummate tact and coolness on his part. The only two villages where special difficultywas encountered were those which were fired into and plundered forty-fiveyears ago by Captain Blackwood's ship, as related in Jukes's narrative, the traditionof the event being still freshamong the people. Sir W. Macgregor's experiencehere is only one of the many strikingepisodes with which his reports abound; a greatfleet of canoes coming out to attack him, he manceuvredso that only a fewcould directlyface him, and the rest were preventedby their position from firing. Then, when within a few yards, the hostile leader, either overawed by Sir William's daring, or persuaded by his friendlygestures, and those of a gallant native ally, who stuck by him, suddenly laid aside his beheading knifeand head-carrier,and the less ghastly bow and arrows, sprang ashure, and, arming himselfwith the green branchwhich is their token of friendship,at once turned war into peace. We can imagine the satisfactionwith which Sir William, later This content downloaded from 185.2.32.109 on Mon, 16 Jun 2014 19:58:05 PM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 790 SOME NOTES ON RECENT EXPLORATIONIN BRITISH NEW GUINEA. in the day, purchased fromhis new friendsthe curious implementsintended to be used forhis decapitation. Eastwards fromthe Bamo as far as the Aird River and Cape Blackwood, the coast, which has practically been unvisited since Jukes's time, was carefully examined, and four considerablerivers ascended, the third of these (eastwards), the Turama, for some 80 miles, where it was still tidal, 60 yards across and 2 to 3 fathomsdeep: a dangerousbore, rushing up twice a day froma funnel-shaped inlet at its mouth, is a serious hindrance to navigation. Some inaccuracies in Mr. Bevan's map about the mouth of the Aird River are noted. On the Omati River, west of the Aird estuary, a curious case of contagious hysteria was seen. Several men were paddling a canoe. One of these fell down in convulsions; the others at firsttook no notice, but they gradually succumbed, and soon all but threehad followedhis example.
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