IN F OR EIGN K ITC HEN S

W i th about m am

F R OM

AN D F R AN C E E R MAN E N GL , , G Y, ITALY,

AN D TH E N OR TH .

E C AMP L BY H EL N BE L,

' ” AU H R or r un usms r WAY m uousxx xxp m c T O AN D cooxuto, ” " " PR ISON BRS op r ovn n w T ux W H AT- TO- O um , D c ,

" ’ " " ’ m as. un an n ous m c on s . m ss muuuDA s

" " ’ OPPORTU N IT Y. R OGE R n xn xs w v s " m our xou.

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R O BE R T S B R O T H E R "

1 893 .

TH E A WOR D TO R EADER .

WH I LE foreign c ook - b ooks are acc essible

o al l o f f t readers oreign languages , and

American ones h ave b orrowed from th em

" ” fo r w kn w hat we o as French cookery, it is di ffic ul t often to judge the real value o f s i f x m a di h , or decide e peri ent in new i directions i s worth while . The recipes n

f l l wi n h the o o g c apters , prepared originally fo r TH E EPIC U E o f B s w R , o ton , ere gathered sl o wl u f u e use y, as the a thor o nd th m in , and are mo st o f them taken from fam ily recipe

S o s as al u as m . book , v ed abroad at ho e

a many requests have c om e fo r th e m i n so m e m ore convenient form than that offered i n

m z a s the aga ine , th t their p resent hape has ii A WOR D TO TH E R E AD E R .

been determined upon, and it is hoped they

m ay be a wel c o m e addition to the house

’ keeper s private store o f rules fo r varying

of the monotony the ordinary menu .

BOSTON ovemb e r 1 8 2. , N , 9 TABLE OF C N TE N TS O .

C HAPTE R F IR ST .

E N GLAN D .

Beefstea Puddi 8 I . Ch esh r e Ch ee se 8. C h o s k ng, , 4 i , p ,

- 1 0 . D e vo n sh r Cre am 1 1 . Yor sh r e Te a c a e s i e , k i k

an d H am s 1 1 . E l i h astr I I . A r i c o , ng s P y, p t '

Pufls 1 2 . E l i h S tor e r oo m s I . E l i h , ng s , 4 ng s

- Lod i h oue 1 . E l i h K c h e n s 1 6 g ng s s , 5 ng s it , .

C HA TE R E N D P S C O .

F R AN C E .

Bri l l at S avar i n 2 . Am ri an Be f e a d sc r i b ed , 5 e c e st k e

b M ar Twai 2 6. Fr n h Ec n om 2 . Par i y k n , e c o y, 7 s

i t h n s 1 8. Ft en F uro an Di n K c e c h ue 2 . E e , l, 9 p

n er s 0 . F re n c h C oo e r 1 . C ar vi wi th a , 3 k y, 3 ng

H atc h e 2 . C h ar c uter i e s . Gar n i sh t, 3 , 3 3 , 3 4,

F r e n c h H ouse ee i n . k p g, 3 5

CH A TE R TH IR P D.

GE R MAN Y.

r . Am H ote Coo e 8 Tr ave i n er an s 0 . l k y, 4 ll g ic , 5 C on u ti n e n tal H o se ee e rs 0 . Fami R e c e s 0 . k p , 5 ly ip , 5 r T iv TABLE a GON TE N S .

’ r u r s G ossm tte Tr ai i 1 . Th e F r a uR a m 2 . n ng, 5 , 5 ’

Goe th e s R oom . Con t n e n ta Br e a fasts . , 53 i l k , 54

G e r m an C o w . Ger m an Di r e 6 . r s, 55 nn s, 5 Ge

m an Desse r ts 8 . Frut n d F d G a oo 8 . n , 5 i , 5 er ma

C ook . A Ge r m an S or eroom 60 . , 59 t ,

C H APTE R F OU R TH .

I TALY .

I a an Ab s n en c e . I ta an F re l ac es 8 . An t li ti , 77 li i p , 7

t n H us e r s . so . e o 8 . I a a o e e e 88 R i o 8 g l , 7 li k p , tt , 9

I ta an S orer oom s 0 . li t , 9

C H APTE R F IF TH .

N OR WAY, SWE DE N , AN D TH E N OR TH .

Fea s on th e F i ord 8. A N or we i an D n n er t , 9 g i

r . N or i an ud ar t . Tab e Se vi c e 1 0 0 we P P y, 99 l , g

di 1 0 1 . A Ch r stm as ar t 1 0 2 . Br et 1 0 . ngs, i P y, , 3 u Su r s 1 0 . Bon der s 1 0 . Bon de r H o e p pe , 4 , 5 s s,

1 . r we n K tc h e n s 1 0 . Bon der D n n er s 0 6 N o gia i , 7 i ,

’

1 0 8. d an d Vel l z 1 0 . Gr b gg, 9 IN DE" OF R EC IPES .

Be ef E n r ee of w th Mac ar on , t , i i Beef T on gue auGrati n Bi r ds i n a F orm Ca es Ban bur k , y — Yor ksh ir e Tea c ake s N or m an dy Spic e Br ead ’ "ueen Ch ar lotte s Cake C aul i flowe r i n a F or m Ch ar lotte Ap p l e N or wegi an Swedl S h Ch ar tr euse of Par tr i dges Ch eese L tt e Soufii és of , i l Ch e stn ut S ouffle

Cr e am Devon sh r , i e M oul d of w th Wood S , i tr awb err ies Wh ite Wi n e Croc an te

Fr tte r s Cr eam i , un e ts D evon sh i r J k , e M ac e dom e of F rui ts

N al e n ski s N oodl e s Moul d of w , i th H am N or m an dy Spic e Br ead Pan c akes with Ve al or H am Pan - for te of Sie n a Patés o f Lam b Burgun dian 0 vi I N DE " OF R E 011 155 .

ast es Game P i , of Grouse ar r d es E n tr ee of P t i g ,

Pot- au- te u Polen ta with Gr avy Potti n g of Beef Ch ic ke n an d Pigeon s udd n Bee fs ea P i g, t k R abb t u ed i , J gg Je llied R agout of Ox- tail R aviol i R isotto

' R 6g1 6d . S a ads S our e for l , J lly H e rrin g e ed of o utr or Gam e J lli , P l y Wh i te Mayon n ai se S wedish Sauc e 1 l a Di ab le Sou Bou ab a sse ps, ill i Cabb a e N or wa g , y C onsom mé with Cr eam of Egg Cr eam of Barley Lam b Broth with R avioli with Sum m er Squash with Par m esan Paste Pur ee of Ch estn uts S wedish Fi sh Soup

Srasi s (R ussi an ) . with fin e h erb s (Polish ) Var e n i ki s Swede n an d ol an d , P Veal sc alloped with H er ri n g Germ an Cur ryof Watr ouski s IN F OR E IGN K ITC H E N S .

EN GLAN D.

H E Am erican wh o seeks to gath er from modern English l iterature som e theory as to how an Englishman really lives is sadly

d n ivided in his conclusions . O one side he

” " o f s f o f reads the roa t bee old England , its

a - d - va pl rn pud ings and mince pies, and the

n d of C s - e h rio s ishes hri tmas time. Thes , wit

m t ss any ano her dainty, cro ed the sea with the

V c h i e fl irginia settlers, who were y Tory and held to old fashions ; b ut for N ew Englan d P they were allowed no place , since the uri tan considered mince - pies synonymous with

o f P of D s the other tools the rince arknes , a - n d plum pudding equally so . Irving r e vi ved fo r a s their memory , and made them , h wit other hearty cheer, an essential element of English cookery. This side still remains ; 8 IN FOREIGN K ITC H ENS .

s w but the modern Engli h novel , ith which Am erica i s so floo de d that sm all place r e m fo r e fu ains her own, r ses to admit that r e fin e d people can tolerate such heavy feed i n F f g, and places the rench cook in the ore ground as the chief essential to an y proper place in society. Certainly the French c ook h as had an ameliorating i n flue n c e on English cookery;

i t s of and it needed , ince , in spite certain

x most e cellent national dishes , the English ’ f a — f man s chie need rem ined , bee and beer, — and he desired to se e his joint smoking

f h i m c ut h i s be ore , and to with own hands th emighty slices dear to his soul . The taste

s m a still lingers. The Engli h an c res as much fo r quantity as qu ality; and in one of the — old inns near the Temple the di m rooms haunted still b y the shades o f the men who

" s G m L b once sat there John on, olds ith , am , — and that host o f worthies they served weekly the pudding which h as made it

' f m s c o fle e - us i s a ou . This inn or ho e the ” C C an d u heshire heese , the p dding is the beefsteak- pudding which all Americans who seek o ut every trace o f old London make ENGLAND . 9

s . ha te to taste It is a mighty pudding , and boiled in a mightycaldron , a hundred pounds of f bee steak entering into its composition ,

th e - si x of and whole, when the thirty hours h boiling are over, demanding all the strengt of two strong men to bear the pewter platter on which it rests to the waiting guests . Its wa yto them lies down several steps , and last

1 886 of s winter ( on one the regular day , the bearers , staggering under the steaming f ud weight , slipped suddenly and ell , the p ding receiving one of them in its deepest i n te r i or x b , where he sat till e tracted y his

s companion , soaked in gravy and burned A most seriously. n actual howl of di sap f pointed hunger went up rom the throng , too indignant at their loss to sympathize for h a moment wit the unluckywaiter. Only

s the beggars were the gainer , and they hov ered about the old coffee - house for many f 0 for days therea ter, h ping another catas tr o h e of p the same nature, smacking their lips as they recalled a flavor quite beyond f f anything li e had ever be ore offered . The g reat Eng lish hotels give one very

of s small hint Engli h cookery, and in larg e I O IN FO EIGN K IT H E R C NS . boarding - houses the storyis the same while i f one knows private life in England and vi sts fin ds in country houses , he that the

s an d a French order prevail , re l Eng lish E di shes remain in the background . ng lish meats are of a quality unknown even to the

of highest order American butcher, since we

et of f x have, as y , no system eeding e pressly It for market such as prevails in Eng land .

fin ds is true that one much American meat , and even more from Australia ; but it is 1a

so far belled , and brings less price than the N native meat . owhere but in Eng land can

fin d m one such ighty chops , an inch and a h f fir m fin e al thick, and in grain, tender as h f c icken , and served spluttering hot rom the

of g ridiron , with their accompaniment mealy

s - s k potatoe in demi toilette, ince the s in is cut from each side only. The Eng l ish cook has mastered a potato , a thing the French cook has never learned but his power stops

o at a potato in i ts jacket . For mashed p

i ts f as for tato in per ection , well as baked , b America has the palm , meaning always y

America the land of good housekeepers .

The bad ones are ignored .

IN F O E N I I 2 R IG K TCHENS . ti on e d? They are all a little disappointing u ’ h but this is said q ite under one s breat , e since they are historical and venerabl , and

of of part the established order things, and at an y hint of chan ge or betterment the foundations of society would shake . P f rivately, the American avows to himsel

that they are heavy and sticky, and, on the

whole, peculiar ; but they are historic, and

that is enough . The Eng lishman wants fullest conscious

o ness of every ingredient in h i s cake . N

f s melting in the mouth o r him . There mu t

s e be substance ; and substance he get , sinc flour seems to have been kneaded i n til l n o k more could be absorbed, and the ca e or bun,

- af fir st da f. ter the y, is bullet proo

S o r th e is it with Eng lish past y, till lighter hand of the French cook has taught

fl n them what aki e ss means . Dripping is the favorite shortening for all ordinarycakes

an d for s and pies, suet dump lings , and thu

of u comes a solidity str cture which , to the ’ Eng lishman, means a substantial money s

of . N ot worth . H i s bread is the same order once in the len gth and breadth of En g ENGLAND . 1 3

n of land was the light , sweet, te der bread good American housekeeping to be di sc ov

was f ered. In toast it airly good , but as bread and butter, a thing to be tolerated ,

b e n since bread must , but ever heartily But enjoyed . a properly toasted Eng lish

ff - mu in or crumpet, as well as a tea cake, is so good that one forg ives the bread ; and there are fir m little pasties enclosing pigeons

a flavor h ot or g me, delicious in , and good

P fish or cold . otted meat , game, and are f f put up in the most per ect ashion , potted pigeons being something to remember with

o i f "y, and imitate possible, and English jams and sweetmeats are all choice and deli

of cate . Who does not remember the tragedy uff ” the apricot p in the Mill on the Floss ,

’ and Tom s renunciation of th e half with i t f b most jam in , eaten bliss ully y Magg ie, with no thought of the reproach for gr e edi n ess awaiting her. The English schoo lboy

s ffs. f rejoices in uch pu In act, apricot seems the symbol for the utmost charm in an ff e y tart or pu , and Thackeray learn d to treat all his b oy friends to apricot omelette af f ter bee steak pudding , a combination at

s f which he him el shuddered . 1 F OR E IGN K IT H E S 4 IN C N .

Beefsteak pudding holds a place quite i n

m s m co prehen ible to the A erican eater, who

fin ds n i fi e e n B it only i d r tl ygood . ut Mar y

’ Lamb mail e it for the evening s entertain

of m for ment, and the group im ortals ate it

af supper, imbibing terward much punch as a

. R P début corrective uth inch , too, made her as cook with the same dish , whose remark " able success is g iven at length in Martin

” ’ C th e huzzlewit , its author s presence in Temple precincts seeming no less real than that of Lam b h imself. D icken s loved good

m a f eating , and one y disentang le rom his web of story many a famous Eng li sh dish . The Eng lish storeroom is the synonym N w of comfort and abundan ce . o here else are such rows on rows of jam and marmalade

of pots , such store pickles , and preserves,

and potted meats , and cordials, and essences of o all g od things , unless it be in the Swed

N . ish and orweg ian homes For them , how

e f ever, is a rougher abundanc , since ruit is But less easily obtained . it is the northern

climate that develops the storeroom , and the housekeeper i n a great house would consider her profession dishonored were the shelves E NGLAND . 1 5

to show an yserious gaps . In the elder days the hou se - m istress and the daughters did most of this with their own hands ; but no

i s such power in the present g eneration, save here and there in those who have taken

th e K ar e up South ensington system , and seeking to revive a knowledge of cookery

ss s among the better cla e , with a hope that an example m ay thu s be set which the poor f will ollow .

In the innumerable lodg ing - houses of London (an d it i s in these that it is usually

s f k mo t com ortable to live), chops , stea s, k bacon , and eggs are always well coo ed . B eyond this , with , perhaps, the roasting of f o a owl , knowledge does not g , and the wearyround repeats itself with the monotony of an American boarding - house and its eter " ” f - nal bee steak and mutton chops . The

- s i s f lodg ing hou e system t el is admirable, the most com fortable po ssible form of living for the stranger ; and i f one chooses to market

’ for f one s sel , variety is quite possible, though never with the range known to the m American at ho e .

It is in private and well - appoi n ted homes 1 6 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS . that the storeroom becomes so i mportant a f a m a a act, and th t one y learn many secret hid away in the yellow leaves of manuscript books that have come down many a genera

N oth i n tion . g more complicated than many of f s i n these orm can well be imag ined, but the mass of rubbish one fin ds now and then a treasure quite worth the long search . The Eng l i sh city kitchen is even more d epressing than the American basement, and the burning of soft coal makes an eternal c on fli c t with saucepans . Everything which touches the fir e is black and sticky and n ot

b e e t th e k to handled, and y average coo

h i s clings obstinately to open grate, which has every fault a k itchen fir e could possibly

ffs s n e w possess, and sni su piciously at the ranges and the American kitchen sto ves gradually making their w ay into England .

r Even with the grates, however, good cooke y i f an d s possible , and is ound now then ; but

s de fin i te l the American settle y at last that ,

f rf m aside rom pe ect eat , America has the advantage in every point . What it is quite worth while to add to o ur list i s the array of potted meats and certa i n pasties and special 1 ENGLAND . 7

f dishes, and these are g iven in ull detail , often from the manuscript pag es which em

of balmed them , and which smell still the lavender and ro semary which g eneration af ter g eneration has laid between the spotless linen i n whose folds the book has rested .

F OM CHOICE DISHES R ENGLAND .

n Potti n g i n Ge er al . The essential points

an of s in y potting, whether meat , game, or

fi sh , are that the portion should be cooked

of to the utmost point tenderness , pounded

m of to a paste , and ing led with enough the

for flavor n ot g ravy , while so much as to

f . An so ten, or prevent its keeping y cold

fish i s meat or can be potted , but it easier

fo to do enough at once r several small jars . Whatever is used m ust be freed from all skin

fin e and gristle, chopped , and then pounded f to a paste, which a ter seasoning and packing l in "ars is again heated . In a cool p ace they

v m aybe kept a fortnight or e en longer. — Potted Beef. of f Two pounds lean bee , freed from fat and gri stle . Put it i n a small covered stone jar ; set it in a saucepan of 1 8 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

w f boiling ater and let it boil our hours.

R f i t fin e n emove the bee , cool , chop , and the pound smooth in a mortar. Season thi s paste with a teaspoonful each of salt and

s fu of made mustard, a salt poon l pepper, and f a pinch of cayenne . Add also a saltspoon ul

of i f . powdered clove , liked Add the gravy

f f of that ran out , and hal a teacup ul melted

P s butter. ack in mall stone or earthen jars ;

‘ place them in a steam er and steam for one hour. Then press the meat in each down fir m l y and cover with a thin layer of m elted

. of hot butter With remains cold roast, f boiled , or braised bee , proceed in the same way.

a Potted Chi cken or Pi geon s. To e ch pound of the cooked meat allow quarter of a pound of f f of melted butter, hal a teaspoon ul each e white pepper and powdered mac , one tea

f of of . spoon ul salt, and a pinch cayenne P f i f roceed as with the bee , and add, liked , two or three slices of cold boiled ham with f the at.

a J ggedflar e or Rabbi t. This i s a del icious

fat method , requiring one hare or rabbit ,

2 0 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

x - a Susse pudding dish , which is merely a

flar i n l large, shallow, g bow , holding about

P u u for three pints . reserve eno gh cr st

fil l k s f cover. To it ta e two pound o good steak from the round and cut in small pieces, two kidneys , each cut in eight pieces,

f of s hal a can mu hrooms , and a dozen or so t oysters. Pu in a layer of steak ; dredge with flour and season with salt and pepper ; for e hti r e t fu the pudding , a large easpoon l f F o salt and half a one of pepper. ill the

w e of dish in this ay. Moisten the edg the crust and press down the cover fi r m l y; tie the b owl up in a cloth which has been wrung out from hot water and flour e d; p ut it in boiling water and boil for not less than four

s hours . Send to table in the di h with a napkin pinned around i t. Oysters and

m a mushrooms y be omitted, and a minced onion sprinkled between the layers .

' ' z ol m l zzr e a n d Pi geon or Game Pasti es. L m

'

x or ds/zzr e. s O f For these pa ties, which are bak ed in meat - pie moulds which Open an d

f a s allow the orm to be taken out, m ke a cru t of of flour f of one pound , hal a pound butter, E 2 I NGLAND .

a f of of h l a pint water, the yolks two eggs , W and a teasp oon ful of salt . ork all this into

fir m r e a paste, and line the buttered mould, of serving part for the cover. For a pie this

z f f si e, remove the larger bones rom our pigeons ; season the inside of each one well with a mixture made of one larg e teaspoonful of f of salt, hal a one each pepper, clove,

of and mace. Spread on each a layer good f l a u fil l i n ' orcemeat and y in the mo ld, g in w ith more forcemeat and bits of veal and

. Wet ham the edges and pinch together, o rnamenting the top with a cluster of pastry leaves placed over the hole made in the cen

tr e of . Put the crust in a moderate oven, af of e ter brushing it over with yolk gg, and bake four hours . In the mean t ime boil the bones and trimmings in one quart of water f till reduced to hal a pint , seasoning it highly, and pour it into the pie through the hole in the top . These pies are eaten cold ,

f tr utfl e s and o ten or mushrooms are added . Small ones are made with one pigeon and f of an t orcemeat, and game y sor can be

u f . sed, enormous ones being o ten served 2 2 IN N FOREIG KITCHENS . — Ban bur y Cakes. For the old manuscript

s a o set rule as made three hundred year g , a

of s f flour spong e with one pint i ted , one

f of m k h f a of teacup ul war m il , and al a c ke

s f of s yea t , or two spoon uls liquid yea t with f f hal a teaspoonful o salt . Let it rise in a

a f w rm place till very light, then add hal a

of s of pound trained honey, one pound cur

s s f of rant , wa hed and dried , hal a pound can

an d fin e h f died orange lemon peel cut , al an ounce each of powdered cinnamon and all

B . spice . eat all together thoroughly R oll a sheet of p uff paste a little more than an

of k eighth an inch thic , and cut in oval s f shape about our inches long , putting a

f f x larg e teaspoon ul o the mi ture on each .

Flatten with the rolling - pin when the edges have been well pinched together, dust with sugar, and bake in a hot oven to a pale brown .

’ s "ueen Ch ar l otte s Cake. Make a pong e precisely as above, and when very light add

f o of a hal a p und butter beaten to a cre m ,

of of with quarter a pound powdered sugar, f of flour f a our eggs, and a cup , with hal E LA 2 NG ND . 3

of fin e pound candied peel cut , and a tea spoonful of powdered cinnamon . Add a small cup of blanched almonds c ut in bits ;

f u for let it stand hal an ho r, and then bake one hour in a moderate ove n . While still

w s f hot, prick holes ith a harp kni e and pour in a syrup made of one cup of sugar and a

f of d large tablespoon ul water, boile together

of five minutes . C over the top the cake

c om fits with harlequin , or dust it thick with

c om fits powdered sugar, the , however, being the old way.

h i r r — Devon s e C eam . This delicious cream , sent to the London market in sm all square

b C o tins, is eaten y many an American in

G i s f " vent arden , and made as ollows The milk should stand twenty- four hours in win

m e ter, and twelve in su mer, and th n is put

- on the stove till it is almost at boiling poi n t .

s s It must not boil , but must show mall ring

k i s and loo thick . The slower it done the better. It is not to be skimmed till the fol l owm da g y, and is then what is known as " ” clotted cream . 24 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

Devon shi re J un kets. of k One pint new mil ,

of c e f of a cup clotted r am, one tablespoon ul

of f brandy, and one prepared rennet , hal a

of of . cup sugar, and quarter a nutmeg grated m Make the milk war , but not hot , add brandy, sugar, and rennet , and set in a cool

fir m place . When , spread the cream over

an d r the top, dust with powdered sugar, se ve cold .

- Yor ksh i r e Toasted Tea Cak es. Make a

of f flour on e spong e with three pints si ted ,

f of of teaspoon ul salt , one pint warm milk, f i t f one teacup o butter melted in , and hal a cake of yeast dissolved in a l ittle warm

. Le t water this rise verylight , add a beaten e gg , and enough flour to knead into a smooth

k s flat of dough . Ma e thi into cakes the size a plate ; let them rise an hour, and bake in d f a moderate oven . Do this the ay be ore

s s using . When used, plit in two, toa t on each side, butter each side , pile them in

s . layers, cut like a pie , and erve very hot f They can also be eaten resh , and are then buttered hot ; but toasted tea- cakes are regarded as more distinctively Yorkshire . rmm a n 2 5

F R AN C E .

S O deep is the conviction that France alone knows the secret and deepest

of meaning good cookery, that the attitude of the newly arrived foreigner is well - nigh w reverential , and he accepts hatever is offered with perfect and unhesitating faith

To doub t would be disloyalty; To falte r woul d b e

And this conviction lingers long after fact has demonstrated that though France m ay

al l know much she does not know , and that

f an d America, too , has her right ul place,

her national dishes .

Br i l l at- f of Savarin himsel , the apostle

of g ood cookery and the best type epicure , gave many pages to the gl or i fic ati on of the

as w American wild turkey, ell as sundry

a l m other Americ n de icacies, and the ost de 2 6 F IN OREIGN KITCHENS . te r m i n e d disbeliever in our possibilities as

k s s s for coo sigh at la t certain home dishes . f k Taking bee steak as the illustration, Mar

wh o Twain, g rows even pathetic in his long ” i n for f W g a real break ast and dinner, rote of it

Th e h ave th e b ee fs eak Eur e but h e y t in op , t y ’ d n k w h ow k i e h e r w h o t no to coo t. N it ill t ey c ut i t r h It m e s th e ab e i n a sm a r ud ig t. co on t l ll, o n

e w e r a e r i s th e s z e sh a e an d h kn e ss p t pl tt ; it i , p , t ic

’ of a m an s h an d with th e th um b an d fin ge r s c ut

o ff. It i s a e ve r d e i s r a h e r dr littl o on , it t y, it u ” as es re n s d uses e n h s asm . t t p tty i ip i ly, it ro no t i

This is painfully true i f one has in mind — such a porter house steak as m aybe found on " many American tables a mighty one an f inch and a hal thick, hot and spluttering from the gridiron ; dusted with fragrant pepper ; enriched with little melting bits of butter of the most unimpeachable freshness and genuineness ; the precious juices of the meat trickling out and joining the g ravy; ar c h i p e l agoe d with mushrooms ; a town ship or two of tender yellow fat gracing an outly i n g district of this ample county of beef

2 8 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

far G b less than the erman, who is the eavi

est of feeders . To the American who faces for the fir st

P an of time a French kitchen in aris, or y i of th e the larger cit es France, prospect is a

discourag ing one . Even in th e best houses in the new part of Paris it is allowed small

- space . The old fashioned N e w England

ss kitchen , broad, sunny, and spotle , would

take in well - nigh a whole modern app ur te

‘ m em . The Paris kitchen and thi s is wr itten after an inspection of many is just

a of n l rge enough to allow limited moveme t . Often it is unlighted save from another r s for oom , and it has absolutely no pace f f storage of an y sort . The chie eature is the great chimney, with the tiled table, or f w f f si x rame ork, in which rom our to various shaped openings for the charcoal fir e are f i s of b ak ound. There no need to think i n k f of g, since the ba er sends every orm bread and roll known to his craft ; no demand

fir e b m h for a great ywhich a joint ig t roast, since a joint is not part of a civiliz ed m enu . f Braising, boiling, stewing , ricasseeing , anything that deals with moderate quan FR E 2 ANC . 9

— fin d f tities, can per ect preparation on F b these various opening s . uel is the eav

of f x iest item amily e penditure, and each bit of charcoal must do its utmost . They f have even a curious orm , invented specially for ot- a u m the p f , which requires long , slow simmering ; a roll of compressed coal - dust which has been m ixed with sawdust and a little tar, and burns steadilyand veryslowly

f of for hours. There are hal a dozen sizes

h f s z c arcoal , rom tiny bit up to the si e we

f of n d m m know, and a orm kindli g calle , — inch - long bits of wood dipped in some i n flam m ab l e preparation and dried . One of

a u f these is lighted , and as it bl zes p , hal a

z f i t do en others are ranged care ully about , a little fin e charcoal and some larger bits

an d f are laid, over all goes a black unnel ,

' "e dza b/e known as , whose business it is to

- act as blow pipe or bellows . This is the simple and ordinary form of

k i s f French itchen , and ound even in large

. Gas houses is also a good deal used, and with it an oven for browning and baking ; while in the Eng lish quarter English ranges

f se t n are o ten , the re t being in proportion IN 3 0 FOREIGN KITCHENS .

to the horror at the innovation . The En g li shman is the determi n ed enemy of an y i f customs save his own, and he bring s his familyto Paris bring s also his relish for the formof cookery which the French cook can N never comprehend . aturally there are f many English who con orm , and even more

for h Americans, but save t ose who consider every foreign form as always and indis p utab l y better than their own country can

for produce, there is always a longing some h i nt at least of American cookery and

of . methods serving Mark Twain, who seems to have gone hungry through all

— a Europe, sums up the ordinary dinner,

French one, since their cooks are every where

Th e European din n er i s b etter th an th e Eur o

e a r akfas b ut h as i ts fau s an d n fe p n b e t, it lt i riori

f Th e m e a m e s tie s ; it does n ot satis y. A ric n co to

n h e i u th e table eager an d h ugry swallows h s so p . k a wh e Th e re i s an i n defin abl e lac bout it som e e r . Th inks th e fish i s going to b e th e th in g h e wants ’ e a s i t an d i s n t sue . Th ks th e ex d sh i s t , r in n t i p erh aps th e o n e th at will h i t th e h un gry p lace ; e s i t an d i s s us h a h e e was s m e h tri , con cio t t t r o t ing

wa n a u al s . An thu h e es nti g bo t it o d s go on . 1 FRANCE . 3

Th ere i s h er e an d th er e an Am erican wh o will say h e c an re m e m b e r r isin g from an Europ ean ta bl e

’ d fzéte p erfe ctly sati sfie d ; but we m ust n ot ove r look th e fact th at th e r e i s also h ere an d th ere l l i an Am erican wh o wi l e .

Th e um e of d sh es i s suffic i e n t but h e n b r i , t n it

’ i us va e f um r zk n sh e s such a m on otono ri ty o i i g di s. ’ ev of fa r d It i s an inane de ad l el i to m id ling .

h e r i a c cen t i Per h a s i f h e r a T e s n oth ing to t. p t o st of m u n of b eef a b i en e r us on e we e tto or g, g o r brough t on th e tab le an d carve d i n full view o f th e

en h a m h ve th e h se se of c am e s cli t, t t ig t gi rig t n t

’ ne ss an d r ealityto th e th in g ; but th ey don t do h a h e ass th e s ed m ea ar un d a t t, t y p lic t o on d sh an d so ouar e e r fe a m — i t d es i y p ctly c l , o

ur n ot s r ou th e e ast. N ow a vas as ke ti y in l t ro t t y, s r e h e d th e b road o f h i s b a k wi h h i s h e e s t tc on c , t l

th e ai r an d th e c h u e s z fr m h i s fat in , ri "ic oo ing o s de s b ut I m a as e s o h ere for h e i , y w ll t p , t y ’ woud n ot k w h ow k h i m Th e a l no to coo . yc n t e ve ok a h ke n r es e ab an d as for n co c ic p ct ly, ” a v n i t h e do w th a h a h e . c r i g , t y it i tc t

H ere speaks the voice of many wandering

r e fle c t Americans, who at intervals on

’ s American oysters, on roasted potatoe and f k s ried chicken, and buc wheat cake , and

- an green corn , and corn bread , and many B other missing di sh . ut when old habits N EN 3 2 I FOREIGN KITCH S .

fin ds ar e put aside, one that the new one s have their own excellencies .

’ of The last line Mark Twain s charge, that,

s a to carving their chicken, they do it with ” of f of a hatchet, holds one the best eatures At C m s. f ontinental ethod home, in ricassee, or f f stew, or ried, the breast is usually le t l in one piece, and on y one or two secure an r y; whereas . abroad, a sha p cleaver, part of v r n f r i n e e y kitche u nishing , cuts it neatly four or i f si x , , large enough, pieces, and thus all m ay share the delicacy. The long back bone becomes in the same way much more manageable ; and this is true of all poultry

m i n d - of an or game used in , or made dish y sort .

of One result the tiny kitchens, and the

of for i s t absolute absence space stores, tha

n F f nothing is kept on ha d . rench thri t f shows itsel here as in everything else .

’ Ckar cuter zes - f , or cook shops, urnish every

f of . orm cold meat , galantine, etc , while an L o rder provides an y hot dish desired . ess

o v p retentious ones have co ked egetables, hot

fixed an at hours, and sold in portions at y

f f of time. In act, ood every nature whatever FRANCE . 3 3

i i f v div des tsel , as it were, instincti ely into ” — a f portions, act a little galling to the

s de fin e d American, not accu tomed to have it just how much is his leg itimate share. The

French housekeeper leaves no marg ins , and there is never perplexity as to what shall be done with this or that, since there is but just enough , and even not quite enough to If fr fully satisfy. a iend comes in at break

' f cka r c utzer ast or dinner, a is always near, ” " B t and portions can appear instantly. u

’ the actual fact is that the friend does n t come i n . Fren ch ho spitalitymeans a stated

n of invitatio , and the utmost resources the house . It does not mean an y informal good f times, in which a riend runs in to lunch , f f or an in ormal break ast . The French woman holds up her hands in hor ror as she

f x hears o such methods . Another e ample of f American pro useness . N o wonder they ” dots for " s have no the daughters she crie , and shakes her head over this mysterious nation . In turn, the American can never become accustomed to an economy which

x s seems even pinching , and in the e a peration at man y of its phases fails to become pos E 3 4 IN FOREIGN KITCH NS .

se ssor of a thousand useful suggestions in

this very direction . For much that makes the charm of dishes " f ar served in the French ashion, with g

of nish many varieties , the American is — too busy. The cook in the middle class f f n f amily, that is , the amilyow ing com ortable but fil l income, not great wealth, must usually

several other places also, and an hour or two spent in cutting flowe r s and leaves from tur

nips and carrots, or numberless little balls f of rom which mounds garnish are made, But would be sheer robbery. till she has

n of - lear ed the secrets the French stock pot , of frying daintily so that not an atom of

s grease remain on cutlet, or chop, or cro

ue tte f of an d q , or ritter, and using scraps

- f o of . the le t ver portions meat, etc , she can never be really a cook in the best sense of

the word . H ere the Frenchwoman has every .

advantage over the American , and knows many secrets which have not found their

wa - a yinto the cook books . She has her tr di

— f d s f tions , too , amily i hes handed down rom f mother to daughter, and used on estival

occasions .

3 6 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS . with the happyfuture in view when washin g day shall fin d its proper place in the family

f ss for laundry, the uture nece ity everyblock of s e of houses , the American hou eke per the next generation m ay hope for something of k C the ease nown to the ontinental one, and fin d some time for studying the phases of really sc i e n ti fic housekeeping . The

French cook will not solve her problems , since, with all his knowledge, he cannot boil a potato properly, and loses his head alto Bu gether at certain American demands . t he can tickle the palate in many a m yste

n s f s of rio ashion, and ome these mysteries we hold in readiness for our readers .

F OM FR E C HOICE DISHES R ANC .

Cr eam of Bar l ey Soup . Melt in a saucepan two tablespoonfuls of butter ; add a heaping

of for h s one flour, and cook t ree minute , f stirring steadily. Then add a teacup ul of

- pearl barley and cook two minutes longer. Add very slowly one pint of boiling water

of and one milk, stirring till all are blended, and boil for on e hour very gently. Then FR E ANC . 3 7

fir e rub it through a sieve, return to the , and add three pints of chicken or veal stock and one tablespoonful of corn - starch dissolved B in a little cold water. oil up once and serve ver yhot .

Pur ée of Ch estnuts. For this delicious soup

on e of s take quart larg e Spani h chestnuts , boil them twenty minutes, and when cool P peel them an d remove all the skin . ut f them in a saucepan , and boil them hal an

of W i hour in one quart water, th a teaspoon ful of of of salt , one sugar, and a slip lemon

. r peel Then rub them th ough a sieve , add two quarts of chicken or veal stock highly

for fifte e n seasoned ; boil minutes more, and then bind with one tablespoonful of corn

s starch dis olved in a l ittle cold water. Add

f of a tablespoon ul butter and serve ver y hot. Should a very thick p urée be desired use t f n hree pints o chest uts .

Boui ll ab ai sse al a Pr oven qal e . At Marseilles an d other points where this dish is to be had

f t of fi sh in per ec ion , several sorts are gener

w of ally used , all , ho ever, the more delicate 8 I 3 IN FORE GN KITCHEN S .

. i us f varieties W th , cod, resh mackerel , and s - fish an fin e - fish mall pan , or y grained , will

. tw o answer Allow three pounds , mince

s nn e white onions and one par nip very , and fr - y them in oil to light brown . Put in the

fish , which should have been cut in small

- fr s . pieces, and y them al o a light brown

of Add two large cut tomatoes, a bit garlic, the pulp of a lem on w ithout the seeds or

f- fu of ff skin, a hal teaspoon l powdered sa ron ,

f - f and some sprigs o parsley and laurel lea . Add one quart of boiling water and a tea cupful of white wine ; cover closely and cook for twenty minutes . This is served in two ways ; poured at once into a soup fish tureen all together, or the separated from the bouillon and served separately.

s m The former is the u ual ethod , and in this case dice of bread are cut, browned in of the oven , and put in the bottom the

- soup tureen . It is sometimes thickened sl ightly with a tablespoonful of flour or

- wa . corn starch , treated in the usual y

R agout of Ox-Tai l C ut an ox- tail in pieces

for as soup, rej ecting the end, and parboil FR E ANC . 3 9

Pu for twenty minutes . t in cold water and

for f let them lie hal an hour . Then melt two table spoonfuls of butter in a saucepan ;

i n of put the pieces tail , which must have

fr been well rolled in flour, and let them y

f - care ullytill a light brown . Add two glasses of s f of five white wine, one tea poon ul salt,

- s of of pepper corn , a bit garlic, a strip

’ - f f h as orange peel , a cal s oot which been

s o u of wa hed and parb iled, and a bouq et

f of sweet herbs . Add hal a pint boiling

s for water, cover clo ely, and stew slowly, f B our hours. rown two dozen button onions in a little butter ; add them to the ragout ;

few cook a minutes longer, and serve. The

k k . gravyshould be s immed , but not thic ened

n sommé r m Co wi th C ea of Egg . For two quarts of clear c dn som m é allow eight eggs . Break them into a deep plate and beat them

f . f of f to a oam Add hal a pint milk, hal a

fu of of u a teaspoon l salt , one s g r, and a pinch of mace ; beat all together, strain through a fin e sieve ; butter an earthen m ould and pour i n x s of the mi ture, etting it in a saucepan boiling water. It must cook, very slowly, 0 I 4 IN FOREIGN K TCHENS .

f about twentyminutes . When per ectlycold cut in small squares and put in the tureen f ' o boiling cam om m e.

n u E O i on So wi th s an d Cream . s i s p , gg Thi f " Si x a delicious soup, and made as ollows

fin e f - white onions cut , and ried light brown

f of in a spoon ul butter. Then add a quart o f boiling water and one pi nt of milk "season

f of f with one teaspoon ul salt, a saltspoon ul

of of f pepper, a pinch mace, and a teaspoon ul

B for of . sugar oil very slowly an hour, and f f strain ; then beat our eggs to a oam , and

of f add one cup cream , and one tablespoon ul

of corn - starch dissolved in a little cold water ; boil up once and serve with dice of

fried bread .

— - - Pot nuF eu. This is neither the plain boiled beef of England nor th e braised beef

we have learned to like, but better than e either, always provided that the rul is care fully followed . A cheap cut answers every f purpose, but a piece rom the round is pre

f si x of ferred. Take our to pounds lean

f an bee , put in earthen saucepan, and cover FRANCE . 4 1

B with three quarts of cold water . ring to a f boil and skim care ully. Add a tablespoon ful of - r salt and three pepper co ns, and boil ve ry slowlyfo r three hours . Then add two i onions sliced and browned in a l ttle butter, two leeks, one large parsnip, two turnips,

of two small carrots, quarter a cabbage, a

- B of r b a f. stalk cele y, and a y lea oil all

for . very slowly, two hours longer Then take up the beef ; pile the vegetables neatly i t about ; strain the broth , pouring a little

f e e over the bee , and serving the r maind r as

b an soup . The dish is improved yadding y remains of poultry or roast meat . It should not be boiled to rag s, but cooked so slowly that it retains shape and flavor .

L — Pate" of amb . Take eight of the best

- fin e small lamb chops ; mince the lean , and

. then pound in a mortar . Add to this one

of n fin e l third the amount i y minced bacon ,

of f - f one teacup resh bread crumbs, hal a tea

f of f of spoon ul salt, a saltspoon ul pepper,

of of a a pinch cayenne, a pinch mace, and

f n - L - grate o lemo peel . ine ten medium sized patty- pans with good puff- paste ; put a thin 2 IN K 4 FOREIGN ITCHENS .

of th e layer the mince on bottom, then a bit

f ff of o tru le, and another layer the m ince. C over with the paste, and bake slowly in a

good oven . While the patties are still hot pour into each a spoonful of highly seasoned

stock through a hole in the lid . They m ay

be served hot or cold .

ur Pfi B gun di an té. For this will be required

of the breast two chickens, which must be

pounded fin e . Add to this one large cup of f - f of m resh bread crumbs, hal a teacup elted

f fu of of butter, hal a teaspoon l salt, a pinch

five n of . caye ne, and beaten yolks eggs Take si x livers and si x g izzards ; clean and

cut them in small pieces , and cook them one

hour in good stock . Then add a cupful of

s of chopped ham , and the ame amount cooked

few mushrooms ; boil a moments, and then allow all to cool . Oil a low p até mould ;

line it with puff- paste ; fil l it with the m i x ture ; cover with an ornamented lid, and bake

slowly in a moderate oven . Cover with a

i f s w paper it brown too quickly, and hen done pour in a little rich stock through a hole in the lid. Serve hot or cold .

44 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

N orman dy Spi ce Bread. One pint of mo lasses and one pint of h oney boiled for five minutes and sh immed . Add to this one cup

of i t et . butter, and let g partly cool Then add f of s a teaspoon ul each cinnamon , ani e,

of . coriander, and the grated rind a lemon M i x with flour enough to make a smooth dough ; knead it into a ball and let it stand

da f f x a y be ore using . C hop a pint o mi ed candied fruits and add to the paste ; roll it i about an inch thick ; make nto little balls,

k - set them a little apart on a ba ing sheet , and bake them a light - brown in a quick oven .

for Beef Ton gue n uGrati n . The tongue this purpose should have been rolled befo r e boiling , so that when cool it can be sliced

an without ywaste . Take the remains, slice and cut in strips and heat in a little good

fr stock . M ince fin e three onions ; y brown in a spoonful of butter ; stir in a teaspoon

of of ful flour ; add a g lass white wine, a

of f f of pinch cayenne, and hal a teaspoon ul

for . La s a lt . C ook slowly ten minutes y the tongue on a gr a ti n dish ; cover it with the onion and sauce ; add a cup ful o f mush E FRANC . 45

h e rooms cut in its, a littl minced parsley,

- and two tablespoonfuls of fin e bread crumbs .

B for rown in a hot oven ten minutes, and

m a fo r serve . The same method y be used f cold roast bee .

Appl e Ch arl otte. Peel and core ten fin e

fin e . apples, and mince them Melt in a saucepan a piece of butter the size of an e gg

of of f and one cup sugar, the grated rind hal

f f of . a lemon, and hal a teaspoon ul cinnamon — Stew in this syrup till they are soft about

fin e twenty minutes . Mash ; add two table spoonfuls of apricot marmalade and l e t it

B C cool . utter a large harlotte mould ; cut

of di thin strips rather stale bread, p them in

n melted butter and line the mould, letti g

l a . each p a little For the bottom , cut the

l a bread in points, and y them in the shape of a star or rosette . Fill the mould with

of the apple, cover with a large slice but te r ed f bread, and bake in a moderate oven or f orty minutes . Turn out on a plate and dust

with powdered sugar.

Ch ut estn Son fl é . One quart of chestnuts f l boiled twenty minutes , and then care u ly 46 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

peeled . C ook them one hour in a cup of milk and then rub them through a sieve ;

of of f add a cup sugar, a pinch mace, hal a

f of few of va teaspoon ul salt, and a drops

B v n illa . eat the yolks of fi e eggs to a foam

i n h ff and stir ; eat the whites sti , and add at

n i n the last moment, putti g all a buttered mould and baking i n a quick oven about

fifte en m inutes . Serve at once to prevent falling.

Cream F r i tters. of on e One quart milk,

of fu of u cup sugar, one large spoon l b tter,

f f of f of hal a teaspoon ul salt , a cup ul blanched and chopped almonds, and a table

f f - B o . k spoon ul orange water oil the mil , and thicken with a tab lespoonful of corn starch dissol ved i n a l i ttle cold water . Add

for five u s the sugar, etc . , and boil min te . Th en stir in the si x beaten eggs ; spread

h o n about an inch t ick an oiled platter, and

w . s allo to cool When cool , cut in strip an inch wide and three long ; roll carefully in

fi n e e crumbs, dip in beaten gg , and then

fr . again in crumbs, and y in boiling lard D rain on brown paper, dust with powdered

s V . r . ugar, and se ve hot erydelicious FR N E A C . 47

d i n e of Pr ese Maoe o r ved F r ui ts. Take si x

- s si x f of green gag e , apricots, a cup ul pre

v of w ser ed cherries and one stra berries , and

s three bananas cut in bits . Two orange m H ay also be added . ave ready one quart of l or n l wine "e ly an ora g e jel y, and pour it an inch i n depth in a glass dish . When

add f cold and set, the ruits , and pour over

f Le t the rest o the jelly. all stand on ice

for . some hours, and serve in the dish N 48 IN FOREIG KITCHENS .

GE R MAN Y .

T is a fashion w ith some Americans who

’ h ave taken a three months scamper over the Continent to e xpress profound contempt on their return for an y me thods but their f own . They have passed rom one hotel to another, each owning its French cook, and none giving an y real idea of the actual cui

of f sine the country, the amily habits, or

s even th e special di hes honored as national . H otel cooke ry in an y case has much the

flavor same the world over, and the larger the hotel the more absolute the sameness of this flavor .

n Even in a longer stay, and i a possible

’ for n f housekeeping o e s sel , there is little or no attempt to handle the resources of the

r count y as the native does, and to discover what it is worth while to adopt and what to reject . There is contin ual wrestle to fit the strange order of things with an Ameri E M G R ANY . 49

can custom, or even to discard the new alto g ether and i nsist on cleaving absolutely to the o l d and famili ar. And it must be ad m i tted that the old has many advantages ; that the American formed under different skies and far different conditions has needs

z b recogni ed y brethren across the sea, and must be allowed much that to them is not

k . C only unnecessary, but un nown hronic dissatisfaction c omes to be the atmosphere of travelling Americans , indignant at the frequent assumption that we are a nation f f o barbarians where ood is concerned, and more indignant at the placid acceptation of this statement as true by those Americans wh r e o have denationalized themselves, and gard their own co untryas quite too crude and f f un ormed or intelligent beings to tolerate . Between these two ext r emes th e American who considers whatever good thing the

m a b for world y hold as his y right , wavers a m fin di n an ti e, g each side an enemy to y

of real knowledge what is sought . To se cure such knowledge o n e must escape from

of all Americans save those like mind, and this , when more and more thousands are H S 50 IN FOREIGN KITC EN .

s r each year cros ing the sea, becomes mo e

di ffic ul t. But and more it can be done, and is done, and the housekeeper on the

C of ontinent , whatever nationality, who dis covers a real desire on th e part of the Amer ican to know and understand the reason of varying methods , g ives every detail with f charming rankness, and g lows with pride

n f - k as she bri gs out amily receipt boo s , and describes the gradual evolution of some f f amilycustom , or some amous dish . There are formulas so sacred that she would n ot share them with her own countrywomen ,

et y g ives them readily to this stranger, who cannot be suspected of an y desire to

B of rival or outshine her. est authority all

r Gr ossm utte r is the old housekeepe , the , who, serene in her sheltered corner, recounts

f da the triumphs o her y, and the quantities and qualities unknown to these degenerate descendants . She holds the unwritten tra di ti on s ; formulas fastened in the mind b y

of many repetitions, and regarded as part her person al wealth . " ” H ow did you learn ? I asked one of these authorities , a stately dame quite sev

52 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

? scold To scold well, and justly, needs always to know wh y one must so do ; e lse how could it serve an y turn but for the cook

ousa ? to laugh secretly in a sleeve, as y y N o of cook mine laughed ever in a sleeve . ” All knew that I knew well .

a e Thus the old l dy, whose ch eks had

flush ed r , and whose eyes flashed with thei ancient fir es as she looked back on this per s e c ti ve of R i p cooks ; the Frau ath, st ll ,

W l dOW of f a amous counsellor, and certain that all old days were better than an ypossi b i l i ty in the n e w. A son had gone to

f . America, and ound place and honor there w A daughter had followed . There ere many w O grandchildren , at hose republican pinions k a t the old lady shoo her he d, too indignan

But for often for words. they, too, cared the old customs and listened to her wi th delight ; and she forgave them and talked u t o o , certain that such tradi ions would g far toward undoing the baleful effects of revolutio n ary theori es of life . In the mean time the oldest daughter, her successor and

h e administrator, kept t house on its old

an d f n i t footing ; so I ou d , when rare good ERMA G NY . 53 f t for e an d or une made me, a time, an inmat , the room which had once been occupied for b G many weeks y oethe became mine . O The long windows pened on a deep balcony, lined and roofed with thick growths of f vines ; a so a and little table were here, and the still , green spot knew no sound save th e twitter of a swallow darting suddenly

f of across, or the so t note a brooding bird . f The busy town, with all its li e, its throng of f students, its workmen in many cra ts,

far et of seemed away, y the opening a door f brought it all be ore one . The house shared in the quiet of the old room . In the

d - G great rawing room , arranged in erman f — fa of ashion , the so the post honor, and a

of i t — w of f circle chairs about , ro s amily k portraits loo ed down on their descendants ,

i n - and the dining room were more, bewigged and powdered, serious and decorous, but all

fed f Wh well and com ortable . y not, when the H a uym uhad made it the business of her

f so c o li e to keep them , and they had

O an x perated with her, to y e tent, hardly th e possible to their descendants , although average German stomach has possibil ities beyond that of an y other people ? IN R I 54. FO E GN KITCHENS .

The C ontinental breakfast si m p l i fie s work for i s v all housekeepers, since it in ariable F S G in rance, Italy, pain , and ermany. Farther north it takes on certain American

s i m or Eng li h character stics , and beco es the s a N ubstantial meal th t the orth demands .

But for s ff the countrie mentioned , co ee

i da ff and bread , or rolls , beg n the y, the co ee

e s - kept hot ov r a pirit lamp, and taken when wanted b y the vari ous member s of the f F R r amily. The rau ath had hers se ved

at h punctually eig t, but did not appear to B w her family till noon. utter as allowed

a. as concession to English prejudices, but regarded as an innovation , and on this hint

i kf s of what an Amer can calls brea a t, the

’ morning s work was done. It is the

h f of shadow, the s am , the base counter eit a

i s un s m breakfast ; the bread cold, tough , y pathetic, always the same tiresome thing ; s the butter is also a sham , ta teless, no

i t of k s . sa lt in , and made goodness now what

sati sfie s . It never , and it never will w h o f Thus Mark T ain , wit much more the same sort ; and the American is forced w f to agree ith him at break ast , since much ERM G ANY. 55

0 German milk and cream are of the thinnest f and bluest, and g ive no richness to the o ten equallypoor coffee . The ordinary German cow is worked in h da arness many hours a y, and loses all

- resemblance to the placid , cud chewing , sleek animals whose only business in life is the production of milk yellower and richer than anythin g known to average Germans as

. D w b cream airies, ho ever, are y no means u n of nknow , the broad meadows the Oden wald and other points g iving room fo r dairy farms which send out excellent butter and cheese ; but much of the milk supply fo r towns comes from the unlucky cows whose life passes in harn ess . An y de fic i en c i e s of breakfast are made up ’ - at the one o clock dinner, at which the Frau R f ath rowned as another innovation, since the old fashion s cal led for a species of hot luncheon at eleven , practically the second

kf of F brea ast the rench , and dinner at two, w ff f ith co ee at our, and hot supper at seven .

n Moder capacitybeing less than the ancient, and c oin m on - sense having demonstrated that

five da for e meals a y g ive time nothing lse, 6 5 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

’ the one - o clock dinner has absorbe d the

dishes of the hot breakfast . The m e n ufollowed the usual order of

’ fish fi sh e n tr ee ve e soup, or salad , , with a g

s table, a roa t and two vegetables, salad , and

s . But des ert the soups were strong and rich, with noodles or much thickening of rice and mixed vegetables . The fi sh had special

s of G sauce , some them with strange erman

flavor s en m fe , but savory and del icate ; the was no mere accident, a slight suggestion

— of between courses, but elaborate con struction ; a beautifullybrowned form of pas tr y, which enclosed pigeons, or birds, or

of some unusual preparation veal , in a sauce,

- and always with potato snow, or some other delicate form of this universal ac c c om p an i

m of aul i flow ment . Or it was a ould c e r m f treated in the sa e ashion, with noodle

th e of n f dumpling, in heart each a teaspoo ul of highly seasoned mince ; or a platter of

ao rolled pancakes, also with mince, and b companied y tiny carrots stewed in butter, N and always delicious . othing prettie r than the jellied fish salad could well be i m a i n ed fi sh g , the clear jellyshowing the little , ERM G ANY . 57 the star s and rounds of rubybeet and golden c arrot , and the green parsley wreath adorn i n g all ; a creamy mayonnaise sauce being

r sent around separately. O it was cro

uette s - q with vegetable marrow, served in a white sauce, and all so savory and enjoyable that the roast as it appeared seemed rather

su e r flui t G a p y, never to the erman eaters, however, who went on with ardor to the very k of fil l end, ta ing long draughts beer, and i n - g the wine glasses, as they emptied, with the light R hine wines .

x E pectation centred about the dessert ,

of which, whether cream , jelly, or cake some

of nature, appeared always with its border

flowe r s and leaves . There were many un f amiliar cakes , baked in large, round moulds, with a layer of fruit pressed in the top before baking , a compromise between pie and cake. The creams held always wood straw f of e berries or chopped ruit som sort , and

f of - there were many orms blanc mange, or f for jelly, in which ruit juice was used the for l iquid portion, as, instance, currant juice

- i e with corn starch or gelatine, and a wh t sauce poured over i t. That each one should 8 IN 5 FOREIGN KITCHENS .

eat all , and more than all , that was possible,

f of F R was the chie thought the rau ath , who

d x f watche the plates an iously, and elt it a

ff i f d s personal o ence a i h remained untried . At four o ’ clock coffee was served in the

- drawing room or on the terrace, and at seven came supper, practically dinner on a

n of smaller scale, si ce hot roast some kind , f with salad and a veg etable, and stewed ruit

of s . some sort , was alway served C akes ,

u u of th e sweetmeats, and vario s adj ncts

American supper were never seen . Tea was

an d k a mockery, wine beer ta ing its place

f wa s f for most . Fresh ruit rowned upon as unhealthy, and served only as a compote ; and fruit at or before breakfast the Frau

R ath declared to be s imply rank poison .

Gr for apes were wine, and not to be wasted ” w " u in other ays , though , as a c re , people But might sometimes take them . good

an d of meat vegetables, with plenty wine, ff u f u beer, and co ee, were tr e ood , s ch as made good figh te r s and good scholars ; and u u a dinner, to be tr ly a dinner, m st have not

f m s of less than three or meat, all prepared in the richest manner.

60 I N IN FORE GN KITCHE S .

f ruits , but her storeroom seldom shows such

elaborate array of jam - pots and pickle - jars

as marks the English housekeeper. This ,

of however, is matter individual conviction . The Frau R ath made a fe w very rich sweet

for meats only special occasions . H e r next

neighbor, on the contrary, a charming and i u h ghly c ltivated woman, delighted in rows

of jars in the prettyblue and gr aystone - ware

r y o which the American longs to car h me, and had innumerable receipts for varieties f o r . pickling , drying , and prese ving Much sweet is, however, generallyregarded as per n i c i ous v s , sa e the light dessert, and thu small time is g iven to their preparation . t Meat and beer are the impor ant elements, and who has n ot th e se is felt to be unhappy N indeed. evertheless , a vegetarian society flour i sh e s and increases ; and there are hints

f of G that the ogg iness erman thought , on f some points, is due to too much heavy eed i n G m e n u g , and that the erman needs recon struction as much as some phases of Ger man manners . With this we have here nothing m e to do, our ain point being to demonstrat that good cooking in Germany can be found RM 1 GE ANY . 6

’ of H in spite Julian awthorne s declaration , ” x s in his Sa on Studie , that to be a thor ough German cook requires only a callous

s a f con cience, cold heart , a con used head, ” an d e of . coarse hands, pl nty grease

CHOIC E DISHES FROM GERMANY .

Whoever has once eaten an yof the jellied salads to b e. found at good German tables wonders always thereafter wh y anything so good should be quite unknown to America at large . They are quite as much a delight

e e to the y as to the palate, and, since they

i n de fin i te l can be varied y, should commend themselves to the housekeepers who sigh for

of new possibilities combination . These

of sour jellies are two orders , one made in ’ - f f f the old ashioned manner, rom calves eet , which German matrons insist g ive a jelly

n f B unrivalled b y a y form o gelatine . ut ’ f calves eet mean much unnecessary work, f and no better result actually, and so the orm

— a f with gelatine is g iven, orm which can fish fle sh f be used with either , , or owl , though specially adapted to fish . 62 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

l k Sour J oll y for Sa ads. Ta e three to four

of of f of k pounds shin bee or the nec , choos

i n fir e g the leanest portion , and put over the

u - k in an earthen or enamelled so p ettle . Add three quarts of cold water and a tablespoon

ful of for salt, and cook an hour without

s . k kimming Then ta e out the meat, and dip it in hot water to free it from every particle of hardened scum ; strain the broth through

fin e z o a gau e strainer and return ‘ t the kettle,

which should also be wiped clean . Put in

of the meat and add a small head celery, f our white onions with a clove stuck in each,

of f a strip the yellow peel rom a lemon, a

fu of - b a tablespoon l white pepper corns , two y

an d f of leaves, a teaspoon ul the best white

vinegar. Le t all boil slowly together till

the meat and vegetables are in shreds, or

about three hours , reducing the liquid to P three pints when strained . ass it through

fin e st the gauze sieve, and add to it a package

’ ’ of C C x gelatine, ooper s or o s , which has been soaked half an hour in a cup of white

Le t wine and water, or water alone . it boil up once with the broth, and then cool , using

it just as it is ready to set, but will still M 6 GER ANY. 3

f pour easily. This is the most savory orm , and makes a dish of the heartiest order. For a lighter form one uses two quarts of water and the vegetables and seasoning of

fir st the one, omitting the meat , and boiling all for two hours ; while for the most del i

of of cate all , poultry is used , and a slice

— f f for veal , the latter orm being pre erred a j ellied salad of chicken or game.

Sar di n e or Herr i n g Sal ad. Take a large

u - round mould , a p dding dish answering the

l a purpose, and yin it a dozen large boneless sardines , the tails pointing to the centre . Between the heads arrange delicate rounds of t h boiled bee and carrot , wit very small

of s sprigs par ley, and pour over the whole just enough of the sour jelly to set them . When it is fir m add more ; enough to make f a mould an inch and a hal thick, to be If turned out when fir m and needed . her ring are used , take the boneless tinned her ring ; cut in fil ets and arrang e in the same wa y. Eels cut in small narrow strips make a delicious salad for those who like them .

an of fish m a b e In short , y sort y used , 6 T 4 IN FOREIGN KI CHENS .

salmon being especiallygood ; but the pret ti e st salads are those where small fish can be

a used, arr ng ed in a circle . With this salad

of is served a sauce sour cream , or a mayon

naise . The latter will be best liked by

Americans, though the sour cream sauce h as its own merits ; w hile still another is used which is as good with cold meat as with

fish i s . , and g iven here

1 R ub f - Sauce La Di abl e . our hard boiled

of fi n e of r aw yolks eggs, , with the yolk a

f f of one, and our tablespoon uls the best oil .

f of f Add two teaspoon uls mustard, hal a

f of z teaspoon ul white pepper, the grated est

of n f of a lemon, a spoo ul grated onion , with

f of of n a teaspoon ul salt and one sugar, the add slowly a cupful of red R hine wine ; beat

r v . well, and it is ready to se e — J el l i ed Sal ad of Poul tr y or Game . C ut the

k l a meat , chic en or birds, in strips, and y it in a mari n ade of equal par ts of o i l and

f - z v inegar . The meat o a good si ed chicken

will require two tablespoonfuls of each .

for Salt and pepper it lightly, and let it lie

an hour or two . Then arrange in a mould , ERMA 6 G NY. 5

fish s. as with the salad Stoned olives ,

s s of caper , button mu hrooms, and sl ices hard- boiled e gg and cucumber pic kle can be

. C used over with the jelly, and serve with a mayonnaise . Small birds are used whole,

of - e set in a circle, with ring s hard boiled gg

°

on e an d t . about each , covered wi h the jelly Serve with a garnish of celery or parsley leaves .

— s of J oll i od Hare. Thi is a delicious dish th e f same general order, and a great avorite in winter, since , once prepared, it will keep f f a ortnight or more per ectlywell , and thus two or three moulds can be made at once . C ut up young and tender hares, using

s only the hind quarter , and reserving the rest for broth or fricassee . Lay the pieces

- in an earthen soup kettle, and cover with three pints of water to which a teacupful of

r wine vinega has been added , with a table

f of f of spoon ul salt , two teaspoon uls pepper f f corns, our white onions sliced and ried

‘ i n f brown butter, and hal a lemon cut thin . Boil all for one hour" Then take out the m eat, strain the broth through a gauze sieve , 66 I I N FOREIGN K TCHENS .

and add enough good beef broth to make f two qua rts . So ak a packet o gelatine in

of add a cup warm water, to this and boil

. W up once, setting aside to cool hile the

' ’ a r c ze of f l hare is cooling , a f cal s iver is to be made as follows

’ Boil a calf s liver half an hour ; chop i t fi n e and rub it through a sieve . Add to it

f o of fin e l hal a p und y chopped boiled ham ,

- fin e fu of two hard boiled eggs cut , a cup l

- bread crumbs or rolled zwieback, two table

f of an d f spoon uls melted butter, hal a tea

f of of . B spoon ul pepper, with one salt lend

an d all thoroughly, put it in an oiled tin, bake till brown in a steady oven . When of cold , cut it and the meat the hare into

u - strips . Oil a large ro nd jelly mould ; pour t f in the liquid jelly abou hal an inch thick ,

r and let it become quite fi m . Lay on a

’ ' of flesh of a r c ze layer hare s , and then the f , and barely cover with the jelly, which must set before another layer i s adde d . Fill the

wa . mould in this y, ending with jelly For

e an ev ning entertainment garnish the jelly, f when turned rom the mould , with three

of d cornered thin slices red beet , intersperse

68 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

fin e - f n f of bread crumbs , hal a teaspoo ul

of salt and a pinch red pepper, an onion minced fin e and fried golden - brown in a

f of f of spoon ul butter, and a teaspoon ul tar B ragan vinegar. lend all together ; oil the

- s scallop shell , and bake twenty m inutes in a

. x for hot oven The same mi ture, cooked

five f of minutes in a cup ul strong broth , m fil l i n for akes a verygood g small patties, k and it can also be ba ed as a larg e scallop, b y buttering a quart dish , and putting a

of x of layer the mi ture and then one crumbs, ending with crumb s dotted with bits of

. fir st butter This is less savory than the , and less distinctly German .

— th e Pi geons or Bir ds i n a F orm . For this pigeons are fir st stewed in rich bouillon to which a little red wine is added , and when they are tender a thick , smooth sauce is

of . fi r st made, two orders The demands a pint of the broth and not more than this

f of should remain , a spoon ul butter, a cup of f of strained tomato, and a larg e spoon ul

of . B flour, with a pinch red pepper lend the flour with a little cold water, and pour E M G R ANY . 69

B i nto the boiling sauce . utter or oil a round tin with straight sides ; sprinkle fin e l y

i t n rolled zwieback over , and li e it with a

t La shee of thin pastry. y in the pigeons or

s f of bird close together, with a hand ul button - mushrooms and a little chopped pars

l e . P y our the sauce over them , cover with

of a sheet paste , wetting the edges to make them adhere closely, and bake till brown .

Then turn out on a round platter, and serve very hot . f of For the second orm sauce, add to the pint of gravy a cup of thi ck sour cream and

t f of two beaten eggs, put ing in the spoon ul

flour fir st , and stirring in the eggs at the

flavor of last . This sour cream is a very b ut f popular one, the American will pre er

fir st f x . the orm , which is an e cellent one

C w a hicken can be treated in the same y,

for but it is better pigeons and game .

Caul i fl er n ow i a. F or m . For this a rich

s e of s auc is made with a cup trong , highly

of seasoned bouillon , a cup sour cream

f of flour beaten smooth , a spoon ul lightly

of u e . browned in one b tter, and a beaten gg 0 7 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

M f ace is o ten added . Line a mould pre

c i se l for yas the pigeons . C ut the c aul i flow e r

l a i t in bits and y in , pouring the sauce upon i t i , and bak ng and serving in the same

. f manner O ten, however, no paste is used, and the mixture is simply covered with w bread or zwieback crumbs, and bro ned quickly in a hot oven .

P u A ast of Gr o se. y This is a Swabian dish, but adopted everywhere because of i ts excel l ence . The g rouse are cut in pieces, and browned lightly in butter . They are then f stewed hal an hour in strong bouillon , to three pints of which i s added a pint of red

si x b a - wine, button onions, two y leaves, a

of of shaving lemon and a blade mace, and a

- cup of cut up tr utfle s or mushrooms . In the mean time chop fin e one pound of raw veal

' f of a r c ze and hal a pound ham , and make a f

of - f with this ; a cup bread crumbs, hal a

f of of teacup ul melted butter, a pinch red

two . L pepper, and raw eggs ine a pasty form with good paste quarter of an inch

' Put of a r c ze thick . in a layer the f , and

n then the grouse, alternati g till the mould ERM 1 G ANY. 7

f is ull, and pouring a littl e sauce on each

. C ff layer over with a thick pu paste, and

l . G d bake in a s ow oven oo , cold or hot, but ’ If generally ser ved hot as an e n tr ee . it

dr seems at all too y, more wine can be added, or a cup of hot bouillon be poured through the opening in the lid. For this purpose a

i s round hole always made in the lid, and covered with some ornam ent or flowe r in pastry, which is easily removed .

urr o German C y of Veal . Three pounds f

an d f lean veal cut in small pieces, ried in

r butter afte having been rolled in flour.

F ry afterward three large onions cut small . Then put all in a saucepan or earthen soup

f of pot ; add a teaspoon ul salt, cover with a

of f s quart re h milk, and stew very slowly f fo r two hours . H alf an hour be ore it is

add f of done, two teaspoon uls curry powder, and at the last thicken with a larg e spoon ful of fl our, making the liquid, which should be reduced to less than a quart, a smooth, thick sauce . The rice for thi s curry is l boi ed twenty minutes , the water being then

off poured , and the rice allowed to steam ten 2 IN I 7 FORE GN KITCHENS .

f f minutes. A cup ul o the sauce i s th en

m x w i t i ed ith , and it is placed high about

th e ed of th e ge a platter, veal being poured in the centre This is the most delicate

fo of on e b e rm curry, and hardly to

i mproved .

Pan cak es wi th Mi n cedVeal an dn am e se , Th w G a ere the erman panc ke, corresponding

rather to our fritter or doughnut . Veal and

ham were minced and highlyseasoned, much

i n for a as the preparation scallops, and t f easpoon ul was allowed to each pancake .

m of of These were ade a cup sour cream, f f two eggs, a little salt , and hal a teaspoon ul of soda, in a little water, with flour enough to

roll into a dough . This was cut into small,

f of x thin rounds, a teaspoon ul the mi ture i d laid on each , the edges wet, and another la

’ o i t s e d ver , the edges being clo ely pr sse

s together. They are dropped like doughnut

f fat r . into rying , and served ve yhot f fir st as Still another orm, served like the

en mfe an with salad, is to roll this dough

n out l a th e very thi , it in small squares, y

o n th e l m ince each, and wet edg es, aying ERM G ANY . 73

an d another square as cover, pinching both

r m fi l y together. They are then dropped

i - nto well salted boiling water, and in two

e An f minut s ar e done. y orm of minced an d highly seasoned meat was used for

f eef c . these, rom b to hicken

v N oodl es. H a ing paused in the midst of this writing to watch a trained German cook

i s t e making noodles, it evident that the

c e i t p will hold a sympathetic quality, which ,

f of in act , is the characteristic all g iven, f since all have come rom just such sources . N b oodles , as made y the American cook,

r l f n have gene al y been a ailure, the reaso

i n . being that salt was kneaded This, it seems, makes them sticky when cooked .

f si x For the true noodle, use rom two to , or more, eggs , according to the amount de P t f f sired. u a pile o si ted flour on the

c board, make a hole in the entre, break in on e e i n l ff gg , and stir flour til sti enough to handle . It must then be kneaded t i ll not a particle of moisture can be seen on

i t s of . R cutting , u ing plenty flour oll it

l a then into a sheet as thin as paper, and y 74 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

dr it to y on a clean cloth, in the sun or near A fir e . n a hour is all that is necessary, and often the fir st sheet is dry before the last f has been rolled out . It is then olded sev eral times and cut in narrow strips a fin g e r

long , which can be kept some time . For

s w the u ual dish , served ith meat, have

of - f a kettle well salted water, boiling ast,

n and drop in th e noodles . F i ve mi utes is suffic i en t to cook them , and they are served with browned butter poured over them, and

sometimes a little grated cheese .

A Moul d of N oodl es wi th Ham . s , For thi f the noodles made rom one e gg will sufli c e .

Boil them as directed . Butter a quart mould

fin e i t thickly, sprinkle crumbs over , and

s line it with the noodle , which should have been allowed to cool . Then put a layer of

of chopped ham , highly seasoned, a layer noodles alternat ing till the mould i s full .

f of Beat two eggs light ; add a cup ul milk, C and pour all into the mould . over it with a plate, and bake an hour. Then turn out

of in the centre a platter, and make a circle of of fin e l - spinach , or y cut sour krout about

6 IN I 7 FOREIGN K TCHENS .

f f sweet cream or hal milk and cream, hal a packet of gelatine soaked in a small cup o f

e of fin e warm water, one larg cup sugar, and a cup of strawberry- "uice with eight

B l - eggs . ring the mi k to boiling point, add u u . sugar, j ice, and g elatine, and boil p once Beat the eggs smooth and add slowly till all W is smooth . hen it is quite cold, but not

e t f of s y hardened, beat in hal a pint weet

ff an d cream which has been whipped sti , a

of cup wood strawberries, and put in a larg e

e r r oval mould to harden . S ve with a ga land

r t of leaves and flowe s about i . ALV IT .

OW w e of shall one rit housekeeping ,

an of or cooking , or y sober phase f ” dailyli e and work , when the word Italy f m itsel means a drea into which , with the f hearing, one straightway alls, and remem bers no more anything but blue sky and

n shining sea, and vineyards climbi g every

l s hi l , and dusty olive spreading crooked

N ew branches, as gnarled and twisted as old

l n - ? f Eng a d apple trees These serious aces, lightened for a moment by the sweet Italian

l of smi e, wear so seldom the look placid, animal contentment found in the heavier — feeders of more northern peoples they — are so abstinent that one forg ets to ask what they eat ; and seeing them content

of an d f with the flask wine, o ten only the of b i t bit black read with , settle that maca

x r roni is the only lu u y, and actual dinners

. i f i t quite unknown And, chances that IN I FORE GN KITCHENS .

’ wa off d s one s y has lain railroa line , and

v nights have been spent in little illages, one fi n ds no vestige of modern improve

s k f ment , but a itchen still a ter the old f ashion . In such a kitchen the fir e p l ac e is of the purest order of Italian architecture ; in other

for s k words, quite invisible the mo e which rises from a fir e built on a stone platform f u f b i three or o r eet high , g enough to roast

ox i f b e f m an need , about which all the a ily

s s gather in chill autumn evening s , ince thi

is the onlypoint where warmth is to be had .

o b fir e One can c ok y this , it is true, but the demand upon it by its owners is of the f slightest, and a ormal dinner or supper B evolves itself with di ffic ul ty. ut the hun

r v l e ar n ed at g y tra eller, who has last that a ‘ chicken is always possible, g ives an order with c on fide n c e that something will pres

f di sa ently be orthcoming , and is not p th e pointed . In the mean time, there is

of upper floor the rambling house , where one

fi n ds b i sdl a s a g , all window and doors, the b i g doors opening into b i g bedrooms with

floor s f l f for brick , and o ten on y the ra ters I A T LY . 79

ceiling . The doors yawn , the windows bang ,

the horses are stabled under the bed, and

of the cows below the other side the room, and the familyshare their quarters amicably

with pig s and hens and geese . But it is all f e f f f ri ndly, and, a ter a ashion, com ortable ; an d at last is served precisely such a dinner

D s as icken ate, in precisely such a house,

l fift a o n a most yyears g , and the wrote

Th ere i s som e th ing with a vegetab le or som e n c e m i t wh h i s a sor of sh - h a d or ar , ic t ort n bi trar h ara e for s u an d wh h as es ve we yc ct r o p , ic t t ry ll wh e n yo uh ave flavo r e d it with p lenty of grate d

h a a u an f e ee se s of s n d ab d e o e . c , lot lt, n c p p p r Th e re i s th e h alf fowl of wh ich th is soup h as b e e n

m ade . Th e e i s a s ewed e w h th e i z r t pig on , it g z ards an d livers of h im se lf an d oth er b irds stuck al l un h i m h e e i s a i t of r as f th ro d . T r b o t b ee e s z e of a sm a F re n h r Th e r e are a s ra of i ll c oll . c p

Par m e san h e e se an d five e w th e red a e s all c littl i p p l , h udd e d e h e r a sm a a e an d r wd n l tog t on ll p l t , c o i g on e u o th e h e as i f e a h we r e r n save p n ot r, c t yi g to se f fr m th e h an e f e e a e Th it l o c c o b ing t n. en ” h e e i s ffe e an d h e h e re i s b ed. t r co , t n t

This is the dinne r provided when one is supposed to have English tastes ; but i f one 80 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

r leaves the matter altogether to the mist ess, s sh an d on e avory Italian di es are the result,

fin ds f that good eating is not a orgotten art , and that Italian cooke ry has its ow n very

f - distinctive eatures. Storm stayed in these

x da us veryquarters, the ne t ygave a cabbage soup in which part of the cabbage was se r ved as salad with the sweetest oil and purest

- fi n e wine vinegar, while the rest, chopped , thickened a soup in which much rice and

n some grated cheese were discernible . The ’ f came pig s kidneys, delicately ried with dice of salted pork ; then a pair of chickens boiled and with a sauce ; and last, a g reat s a of of tew, savory and ste ming, bits meat of tr utfle s all orders, , potatoes, little dump ff lings, and garlic. Fruit , cheese, co ee,

ve e all good, ended the meal in which no g tables had appeared save the cabbage and those in the ste w. This is the fir st glimpse of Italian house

e — a s k eping , housekeeping in which pa t an d present are jumbled . The Italian who h as catered for g enerat i ons of English tour i sts disgusted with an y customs but their own f far , seeks to ollow these customs as as ITALY. 8 1

out possible, and keeps his national dishes But i f of sight . he discovers that the tour x ist is American and not Eng lish , his e p res

H e x sion changes . e pands and beams, knowing that his labor is sure of r e c ogn i

an d tion , that his own methods are the ones h desired . T en appear the really national — f dishes, macaroni in its many orms ; deli

' c i ous n sottos of m i n es , also several orders ; tra ; and so on th r ough a lis t which is more

s r r avo y than ordina y French cooking , and has as its only fault a freer use of oil than

th e American palate likes .

of f w This is true salads and a e sauces . But the frying in this sweet olive oil is of

fish the most delicate order, both small ,

ol en ta f of p , and many orms croquettes being

wa treated in this y, while the Italian stew

puts the French p ot- d a -f eualtogether out of

countenance .

f ol en ta The oreigner learns soon to enjoyp , a form of corn - meal mush thicker than the

- d of hasty pu ding our youth, and eaten uni ver sal l b fir st y y Ital ians, either in its state,

c ut f h or in thin slices a ter it as cooled, and f d a l rie golden brown in swe et olive oi . 6 2 IN I 8 FOREIGN K TCHEN S .

k- These coo shops are met at every turn . of Fuel is costly, and the price prepared food but the merest tr i fle beyond its value uncooked ; and thus many a family relies f altog ether upon these shops, rom which

ascends the smell of ever - boiling broth

bubbling in huge caldrons . In the win

dows are mountains of smoking - hot; golden

ol e n ta of f s p ; heaps ried minnows, cri p and brown ; mounds of rice ; great dishes of

d s stewe snails , dear to all Ital ian , and the f usual treat or f esta days . R oast poultry

de fi are there also, and liver and other less H nable mysteries . ere come the gondo

for liers and bargain dinner with the cooks, whose huge ladles indicate what m ay be

skimmed from these bubbling depths . In less pretentious shops m ay be found a deli

— of cacypeculiar to Italy, the clotted blood

of an f s poultry y order, ried in lices with u V onions ; and another tr e enetian dish, but

f N s uasetto ound in aples also, g , a thick broth made of entrails and scraps beyond the art

‘ of - k even the sausage ma er, and loud with

. for r d garlic There are eve y win ow, high

o o f oi a d r low, h eaps f cr ullers ri ed i n l , n

8 IN E IGN K H E 4 FOR ITC NS .

‘ c ook i n i s m a g Italian or French , as one y w elect. N o and then the Italian chimney

a flavor of m a has its sh re, and a smoke y be i discerned, the m racle being that it is not al

s ways there, since smoke and Italian chimney f have been synonymous rom the beg inning .

An x ingrained incompatibility e ists, and

x w apparently has always e isted, bet een the

n Italian and fir e of a y sort . It is certain that the sun appears to him the only l eg i ti

e of b mate sourc heat, that he would cook y i f it he could , and that hot ashes in a copper

’ f of holder, the orerunner our grandmother s f - of oot stoves, are his notion a desirable method of keeping warm in winter. The newer houses claim to have chimneys con th e structed on the Eng lish principle, but Italian is utterly aghast at the amount of fuel demanded b y both Americans and E n g f lish . The kitchens are arranged a ter the F f rench ashion ; that is, the chimneyholds a stone table with various openings for char

B f r coal fir e s. ut the general effect is a more cheerful and ample ; there is more

e light, more space, and quite as good a sens of order. ITALY . 85

u F The Italian ho sekeeper, like the rench, is freed from much that burdens life in

B of America. aking every kind is done .

th e b ake r s R m F outside, in o e and lorence furnishing excellent graham bread an d rolls of a better quality than anything yet known to the American baker. The laundry is also quite removed, and washingand ironing

of days are unknown . The French system portions is only here and there followed ;

- but cook shops are everywhere, and in the

f of market, the ruit and vegetables the sea son as r f , as well eve yhousekeeping need , rom a f - c an bee steak to a dish cloth or duster, all be supplied. N ecessarily, then , unless the kitchen is

fitte d w ith an English or American range, R baking must be dispensed with . oasting is accomplished excellently well by means of spits ; but the Italian cook prefe rs stew i n g or braising, this last method being one of the very best for preserving the juices

flavor of and the meat , while reducing the m ost obdurate qualityto tenderness . When " ” browning is demanded, the salamander

comes i n to play; this being a b ox- shovel 86 I N FOREIGN KITCHENS .

fil l e d If with hot coals . this is not to be

- had, a shovel made red hot answers the same

end . All this and much m ore was l earn ed in a R oman kitchen, where through the wide

n w h wi do one saw roses climbing hig , and heard the nightingales at evening . It was not American housekeeping , since Angelo R presided, Ang elo born in avenna, and drifting to R ome as so many do ; Angelo

- h i s f the ever ready, with gentle eyes and swi t

of v silence ser ice , and a voice so sweet that f C k it could hardly speak too o ten . oo ,

- waiter, major domo in general , how he cared for the two Americans who played at house keeping in those charmed days in R ome "

t s A g reat child in simpl ici y and gentlenes , yet so wise for all emerg encies " H ow he f guarded the amily purse, making every pennydo its utmost " H ow his face fell i f b y an ychance he feared full satisfaction had not been given , and how it lighted at every little recognition ' Italian servants ar e f counted as thri tless, untrustworthy, and b ut dishonest, this is much as one takes them . It is certain that theylove a bargain, ITALY. 87

that they take advantage of each other

e . wher theycan, and laugh over it when the

But m ex e r gain is on their side . y own p i

of ence, as well as that many others, proves that when once trusted they are loyal to a

e degre . — For Ang elo and there are many of his — type there had been from the beg inning a complete adoption of all the small inter

h H e ests as i s own . was not only cook and

- b ut g eneral care taker, knew all the shops ;

s fil a r e e where the be t g silver, the clearest

z photographs, the most genuine bron es , and

on f . H e so , were to be ound shopped or marketed , or even turned guide, as occasion

of demanded, and in each and all these offi c e s did such service as moneynever pays . H e doubled with merriment over the early

e for struggles with the lang uag , he spoke " G - r no Eng lish, save a charming ood mo n ” i n m . m a D et g, y ladies One yread ante, y be quite unable to discuss an omelette or

’ order the dinner properly in Dante s lan guage, but no one knows genuine Italian housekeeping till this is mastered .

’ Th e housekeeper s day is much like th e 88 E IN FOR IGN KITCHENS .

’

F r en c h wom an s. x Our ne t neighbor, an ’ f Italian advocate s wi e, busied herself in

a f n . much the s me ashio The cook Assunta,

f s long in her service, knew the amily taste , and scarcely needed assistance ; but th e m istress prepared special dishes now and

c h i c fl then, y compotes and light sweets .

But i F r of , l ke the rench, the larger po tion the people eat little sweet, save perhaps in fe ices taken at the ca s, dessert being most f usually simply ruit and cheese . M istress and maid went together to market , pausing

’ on the wayfor five minutes devotion in one

of u or another the inn merable churches , and issuing for the season of profound e x c i tem e n t which marketing in Italy always

for affords . Instant destruction everybody

’ concerned is the stranger s fir st feeling as the voices rise to a shriek and arms fly and

But n madness seems to rule . it all e ds

flavor placidly, and the dinner has a better

o for h aving been fought f r . The early c ofi e e or chocolate is taken with

a - da roll or two , and the mid ymeal is like

kf " the French second brea ast, almost a din

si x . ner, the dinner proper being at or seven A IT LY . 89

But the Italian is more abstinent than the

Fr e n c h m an f , and o ten l ives in the simplest f G of ashion. reat joints or masses anything

H e are repugnant to h im . delights in made

i n s dishes, in his own macaroni , and stew of of f many orders, and the bill are holds — many savory dishes , above all , the many

' ' f of n satzo of orms ; a preparation rice , in which the grains are fir st browned in butter and then boiled so perfectly that each grain

. of holds its shape With this, bits chicken ,

fish ar e or meat, or , ming led, according to

e a th the kind required, and a sauc dded , e whole being formed in a mould before serv

i n . f f g O ten this makes the second break ast,

of of with a flask wine and a bit cheese.

P of oultrypredominates , and is a part nearly

f c h i e fl everydinner, Italian bee being taken y from oxen whose long years of service have m e ad it durable , but hardlyeatable save after

long cooking .

The store - room has l i ttle or no place in

Italian housekeeping . Supplies are bought f da da rom y to y, and to have them on hand would deprive both cook and mistress of th e

of th e da — th e most interesting portion y, I K ITC H E S 90 N FOREIGN N .

s squabble with hop and market people . C ustom has so settled every phase of house i b keeping , that it moves in l nes smoothed y

of . the wear centuries The mistress scolds,

h . i s but it is simply a abit She well served,

sh i t r i s and e knows , and the Italian se vant

f f s f for the amily riend , haring the amily u t nes , and trusted and beloved to the end . When will the day come when this word can

of m e a - be said A ric , or when care ridden housekeepers will lea rn that certain phases of c o - operation in the matter of laundry and k f ba ehouse , would end orever much that now makes American housekeeping the most di ffic ul t r 61e fil l ed on the earth by civilized and intelligent women ?

F OM I AL CHOICE DISHES R T Y .

' '

L Br th i l i . P z t amb o w th R avi o ea m an . Make

of of k of a broth three pounds nec lamb,

an s of t and y bone roast lamb, three quar s of f of s h f water, a tablespoon ul alt, al a tea

f of e m spoon ul p pper, a minced turnip, so e

of a s an d sprigs p r ley, two minced onions f ried lightly in a tablespoonful of butter.

K 92 IN FOREIGN ITCHENS .

B soning to taste with salt and pepper. utter a s - th e hallow pudding dish , and cover bot tom with slips of bread dipped in broth . Grate over them a sprinkling of Parmesan u s cheese . O thi bread put the minced squash and cover with another layer of bread prepared in the same way. Bake in a quick

an d s s f oven till brown, erve a large poon ul R of it with each plate of soup . ipe cucum ber s m ay be treated in the same way.

P P An Soup wi th armesan aste . yclear soup

for s u can be used thi , two q arts being

uffic i en t. F o s r the paste , take a small cup of Pa m s of flour grated r e an cheese , one , a

f of of . saltspoon ul salt, and a pinch cayenne

B f . eat our eggs and add the flour, etc slowly, with half a cup of cream or rich m ilk . It should be a rather thin batter. H ave the soup boiling , and let this batter run

u m i t. thro gh a s all , very coarse sieve into

It will make long strings, which must boil ten minutes .

r avi ol i a e Ravi oli . For the genuine p st ,

of s f f five take on e pint i ted lour, eggs beaten A IT LY . 93

f f of to a cream , hal a teaspoon ul . salt, and two sp oonfuls of warm water. K nead this

i t fir m till is a , glossy dough , and let it f P stand hal an hour . repare a delicate

fir st mince, as in the rule g iven , but when f hal the ravioli paste has been rolled out, ut f fu i t p only hal a teaspoon l on , at equal distances, letting them when cut be no

n e r B longer than a fi g . oil ten minutes in

n d ve e salted water, a put in layers in a g b P ta l e dish , grating a little armesan cheese on each layer an d pouring on it a spoonful

of melted butter. Mask the top with some

f of spoon uls thick tomato sauce, and serve

s very hot . This paste is al o rolled thin ,

ut s five m i i n o in ribbon , and boiled nutes

s salted water, then served with grated chee e

t f of and melted bu ter, or a cup ul rich gravy

or tomato sauce .

— Ri sotto. Wash half a pound of rice an d

dry i t well . Melt a spoonful of butter in a

saucepan and put in the rice, stirring it now

- and then till it is a light brown . Add to it

e of - a thre pints broth, well seasoned, and

f d n r minced onion rie brow in a little butte . 94 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

Cook veryslowly till the rice has absorbed r of the b oth, about three quarters an hour .

of of Add to this a pinch red pepper, a cup

a f of tomato sauce, spoon ul melted butter, tw f o o . and grated cheese, and serve veryhot For the American palate the cheese m ay be

so o omitted i f tomato is used . The r i tt is often varied by adding dice of cooked meat or chicken .

P l n r — o e ta wi th G avy. Simple as this dish

f d x as ve is, it will be oun an e cellent one a g f H etable or cold days . ave ready three of f pints boiling water, with a teaspoon ul , of f of salt , and as it boils add a spoon ul

of f s s butter and about a pint re h , coar ely f ground sem oul e or Indian meal . Si t in

n slowly, stirri g constantly, and boil twenty H of m inutes . ave ready, hot, a cup good g ravyand one of tomato sauce ; put a laver of e the polenta in a dish , then sauc and gravy F and a little grated cheese . ill the dish in this wayand serve hot .

n e P r E tr e of a tn dges. Three young par tr i d e s l H e c u of g , c eaned and washed. at a p

K T 96 IN FOREIGN I CHENS .

Ital ian sweets are almost identical with F f f m the rench . Ices are the avorite or , and

but little pastry is eaten . Special cakes

m for s a s are ade peci l sea ons, but they are o all tr ublesome, and scarcely need more

than mention here . The favorite combina

i f e h t on is honeyand almonds , with lour noug

for u s e a do gh , and endle s variations are mad

s. D f on thi essert is, as a rule, ruit and a

b i t of cheese , and sweets have small place

of f . for in the dailybill are The rules tarts, h s . m w 1t pudding , etc , are al ost identical

the French .

Pan forte of Si en a. i , Th s compromise between cake and candyis found everywhere

a b ut a tr i fle in It ly, Siena claims to make it

r f B - more pe ectly. ring to boiling point in a saucepan one pint of strained honey; add

of ds one pound almon , dried in the oven and

pounded to a coarse meal ; three - quarters of a pound of fil b e r ts treated in the same way

f of h fin e hal a pound citron, c opped ; one

f of f teaspoon ul powdered cinnamon, and hal a one of pepper ; half a pound of grated

chocol ate. M i x this with semolina (about A IT LY . 97

. l a pint), and let it cool When coo , turn on the pastry- board ; add semolina enough to

a fir m f make dough ; roll it hal an inch thick,

n s u and cut in rou d cake or in sq ares , baking w them in a moderate oven till bro n . A f choicer orm is to use almonds , roasted and

fin e a of . ground , inste d semolina

— f Crocan te. This is a delicious con ection and easily made . Bl anch one pound of sweet almonds and cut them lengthwise in

fin e strips . Melt in a saucepan one pound of f fu of loa sugar, with a tablespoon l water,

of z of e and add a piece butter the si e an gg, B and the nuts . oil very slowly, stirring steadily till a golden brown ; then pour into w a buttered pan , and cut hen cool into small

strips . IN I K FORE GN ITCHENS .

N RW Y D N AN D TH E O A , SWE E , N R H O T .

’ ON G a o da s h g , in the y when c ildren s

ks fe w — a n d s m e s boo were , one ometi

s s e s da s u wi he that th e y might ret rn , since in th e m the children knew S cott we ll an d Oliver

at al l am Optic not , there c e a little book , ” a s d a de b Fe t on the Fior , re d with light y

an d i s - f young old . It a well nigh orgotten b i t o f b H a u so work y arriet M rtinea , true to nature th at N orwegians would not belie ve

a h ad o n th e an d th t it not been written spot, it held the fir st picture o f N orwegian house keeping that m ade m uch impression on

’ s s ka B m Engli h mind . With Frederi re er s

m am ts a fo r S an d H o e c e i pend nt weden , thenceforward the re ade r o f the two remem

fas s o f t s bered pretty hion doing hing , and wondered what the unfamiliar dishes might be like . N ev er had th e m aking o f butter an d cheese a lovelier setting than that given in the story

1 IN I 0 0 FORE GN KITCHENS .

t f us a e to were hrown open , ollowed , prep r d

‘ a di ffic ul ti e s smooth aw y all .

m a As i f u f They were ny. the ch e g ests o

n f the eveni g , we were orced to precede the eighty others ; an d as the signal was given f u us l v s m d f wa ad s o nd o r e e i pelle or rd , the l ie

b d m r e flocking ehin , while the gentle en

- mained seated in the drawing roo m .

a do m sub Wh t to was the proble . Three stan ti al l s f us n o y covered table aced , but

s f an d s chair were be ore them , we tood help

ss ua a a e s f a le till the g rdi n ng l tepped orw rd ,

i n s Yo u us as do saying a whi per , m t do I ;

h u v s we all elp o rsel e . Down the table at intervals were piles o f

s s f s s s a n d a . plate , knive , ork , poon , n pkins

o f a a n d a k We took one e ch , fled b c to the d - s v s h ad rawing room, where the er ant , in the

m m a d u s o f ta s. ean ti e , arr nge n mber tiny ble H a us fi n d a ere we se ted o r elves, to th t the

m h ad sud d sa d a n d gentle en denly i ppeare ,

m f s a d - m were co ortably e ted in the ining roo , h fir o f us d s s aving the st choice the vario i he ,

us which were afterward brought out to . A delicious soup with forcem eat b alls came

fir st a o f ad , and then a bewildering v riety m e N A AN D TH E I O ORW Y , SWEDEN , NORTH . I

d s s a b ut s. i he , but no veget ble potatoe The

f us a f n chie waiter took in ch rge , and o te took o ur forks from o ur hands i n order to transfer some especially dainty bit fro m the dish he c arried to o ur plates.

C ourse after course o f these made - dishes

f s an s u ollowed , and at la t came almo t eq al k variety o f puddings an d ca es. There was

’ no pastry; b ut these puddings and cakes

m o f ss e t d a s were arvels richne , y elic te al o .

N w m i s or egian crea like the Alderney, thick a n d sm s fus s s ooth is u ed pro ely, and egg al o, with a lavishness appalling to the English or

m a s k a u d A eric n hou e eep er , m ny p d ings made

V u s requiring twenty or thirty. ario s wine

v s f were ser ed , and hortly a ter the dinner

n s s fir st bega toa t were proposed , the host d Vel kom m m n rinking to all ; and the , our

’ m e s b v Vel kom m m tzl N or e na eing gi en , with g " ” ( Welco m e to N orway The n followed a n b t intermina le lis , and at the end every b d a d s s s o y dvance to the ho t and ho tess, hook " s s d Tak or m a dezz s hand , and ai , f ( Thank for e n sw Vel the r ceivi g the an er, bekom m m M ay it agree with yo u

b o v b o d Then everybody wed to e ery y, till I 0 2 IN O F REIGN KITCHENS .

we fe C s m lt like hine e andarins . When c o t

fe e w as s m s a a came it the a e , and we ep r ted at last with the form which must never b e fo r ' ’ Ta b or za u a ks for - da gotten , f g Th n to y So ended the dinner ; but the same form was repeated on meeti n g an y o f the guests at

’ a n y tim e thereafter " Ta k f or szdst Thanks fo r last tim e and this i s as cu sto m ary and inevitable among th e peasants as among the

u v Ga s h ad f w d c lti ated . me ollo ed the inner,

— s button , the slipper, etc . , in which bi h

o s d p and other dignitaries j oine , with the abandon o f children ; and at nearly midnight

a s o f sw s an d f u s c me a upper eets, ice , r it , more

ff s co ee , and the accompanying thank , and

- then good night. Later in the season we were invited to a

C s m s f h ad hri t a party, and a ter the tree been

r i fle d f C s s s , ollowed the national hri tma upper

r t known as b a .

B N w fo r r et is the or egian word tray, and

- b v . three trays enter, borne y men ser ants

fir s of The t holds an endless variety cakes , b i an d s g little . The second has many gla s

s s v d as e s c ur di hes fil l e d with pre er e r pb rrie , r s e e f o u ant , cherries , etc Th y paus be ore y ,

1 0 I I 4 N FORE GN KITCHENS .

n ow ss i s s th e and the proce rever ed, partakers o f br at selecting their spoon from th e glass o f i t u d water, and replacing , when se , in the m e pty one .

Is s su ? B m A thi the pper y no eans . t 1 1

s m i s f f u thi eal announced , the chie eat re o f

s b e f fish which appear to ried . There are i n numerable dishes that pass from hand to

o f b e s . n m hand , all which must ta ted O y

d n ac c um u plate , at one time , the atten a t had

fo r fish lated me , cold ptarmigan , cabbage

s w m u te ed in crea with sugar and n tmeg ,

- e d hard boiled gg , col ham , preserved cher

s an d s. rie , boiled potatoe Milk , tea, wine ,

b ut was al and beer were all handed me , I

lowed to select . Then ca m e rice porridge

a m s s o f e ten with crea and jam , and a erie

toasts . This might have been thought the

b at an d b ut 1 P . M . r end , at again appeared ;

a k A. M af the p rty bro e up at 3 . , ter games

an d da a a t d fo r m br at ncing , pp ren ly rea y ore ,

ff a . co ee , or anything that might appe r

At the next dinner - party but eighteen or

s twenty were pre ent, and here the company

s a a were e ted together . Soup , which is alw ys x e cellent , was served ; then ham cut in bits A AN D TH E 1 0 NORW Y, SWEDEN , NORTH . 5

was u au. passed , and tong e with kr t Then cam e a co urse o f boil ed lob sters ; then as p a r agus ; then salmon ; then chickens a n d mutton c ut up and h anded b y the servants ; an d s us ds f ut an d ak us s la t, c tar , r i , c e , the co r e

v s w i ha ing each a wine erved ith t. The

as s s m d a o f cooking here , el ewhere, ee e th t a

G n f m an d s m e n nice erma a ily, had the a e g m eral arrangem ent . Deli cious pudding c a e betwee n the other courses ; sour preserves

t m d ss r was were served wi h ga e , and the e e t

a n us us f fruit d n t as with . The avorite pre s fo r a m s i s ub erve , e ting with eat m l erry

' m ol tzbeer — am a f m a m a a " , m de ro s ll , cid berry growing clo se to the ground . A p ud

’ n o f s m was s s i di g reindeer ilk erved , thi be ng

' a w s k w m de richer with co mil , and ith a peculiar fl avo r to which a stranger i s n ot

accustomed .

s al l s ff The e were tate a airs , with so much drinking that one wondered how keeping

sober could be po ssible . Later came a quie t

fa n i n u mily di ner, the ho se o f a sm all lande d

as B . B proprietor, known a onder The onder

f i s m e f is a armer, and so what a ter the order

o f m a n the English yeo . In this case there 1 0 6 I I K I N FORE GN TCHENS .

u u an d had been more ed cation than sual , the mode o f life was m odelled on that o f al l proprietors .

s B an d k Thi onder was tall strong and dar ,

—a natural prince in look and manner, though he wore the red woollen c ap o f the

' farm ers . As each door Opened he stepped

d l as back and bowe , throwing open one at t

s w us a u a o m . which ho ed a l rge , nc rpeted ro

fu was u x On The rniture a sing lar mi ture . each side o f the great room were beautiful — carved cabinets an d tables a little gilding h ere and there The middle o f th e ro o m

m a a w m m s held a com on de l t ble ith i ense leg , and in the corner were sm all tables and se t

a d u fu s tees , lso eal, s ch as rnish an Engli h

o ur o l d country alehouse . A tall clock like f N e w s s b ashioned England clock , tood y the door. A decanter fil l e d with cordial was

i n u o ut fo r brought , and a small glass po red each ; and fin di n g th at we were interested ,

s the host took us through the hou e . There

a m s s h o s i tal i t i s were m ny bedroo , ince p y a o N a orwegian virtue , some very pl in , others with elegant curtained beds an d h andsome

a furniture . In the storerooms and ttics were

1 0 8 N IN FOREIG KITCHENS .

u w s in the s mmer. In the lo er tory was the

a a s a m c ttle stable , e ch t ll being ade o f two l arge slabs o f slate ; while the b arn itself was

v l s u s to t ele ated on litt e tone s pport , preven , as m u ss b ch as po i le, the entrance o f lemming

s m s s rat , the o t voraciou and destructive o f d the or er .

D was r d i n d - inner se ve a large ining room ,

f m a n - d s o f opening ro the dr wi g room . A i h sour- milk soup and anothe r o f meat soup

fir st s u f b ua came ; then t rgeon, ollowed y q il

k s o f and panca e , and one kind wine only, At with cakes a n d coffee at the end . another d a h ad s u m a o f a s s inner, l ter , we o p de r i in and

u s e d m n an d a s s pr ne , boil sal o pot toe , ome m a - s a a s d s de di h with cl ret, and imp le es ert .

— - berries eaten in soup plates with m uch

k As s n d i e n a mil . each per o en ed d nn r , the p f d kin was olde , laid on the table , and the

i t At u e u a plate placed upon . s pp r, S nd y

k s v s m o f ca e were ser ed , the e being ade rich

waffl e s k c ream , and baked like For the wor

w as a b x people , a thick porridge m de y mi ing

a - m a b an d sifted b rley e l with oiling water,

s was ut stirring with a stick . Thi then p in a

' d wh i c h was a d large woo en bowl, pl ce on the A D AN D TH E . 1 0 NORW Y , SWE EN , NORTH 9

an d d table , round it the men gathere , each with a short wooden spoon and a wooden

o f s u um s o f bowl o r milk, digging out l p por ridge and eating them with the milk . This i s

r ad a s u s g , a n tional and mo t npleasant di h ,

i s d. Vel /z since it not boile lg is much better, fo r the barley- meal fo r this i s boiled in m ilk and eate n with cream ; b ut in all these por ridges there is not boiling enough to suit the

n s . E gli h taste As a whole, the cooking ,

x s m f far though e cellent in o e points , alls

w F d am belo the rench stan ard , and the ount eaten is a perpetual amazem ent even to the m heartiest English an .

I H F OM A N CHOICE D S ES R NORW Y , SWEDE ,

AN D TH E NORTH .

S edi sh F i sh - Sou A w p . Take one doz en

an - fish an small p ; skin d bone them . Boil

s b o f the head and ones in two quarts water, with a tab lespoonful o f salt and a handful o f

us dried m hrooms . Egg and crum b the pieces

o f fish fr d m , and y in boiling lar , letting the

w Pa drain on bro n paper. re and chop fin e a

f d s red beet, two onions . and hal a ozen leek , u . C t fin e and a parsley root , also , half a 0 IN I I 1 FOREIGN K TCHENS .

. C small white cabbage ook these separately,

i n s fo r f an . a alted water, hal hour Str in the fish broth upon them ; p ut the fried fish in the tureen and pour broth an d veg e tab les upon them . S m all dumpli n gs are often ad d s m m s o f fish de , and o eti e part the is minced fin e and m ix ed with them .

C abbage Soup (N orway). Two pounds o f

f s s a f a o f bee hin or bri ket , h l pound salt

k f u s o f f u por , o r onion , a root celery, o r

ua f f o an d s n fu o . q rts water, a tea poo l salt

B s a oil three hours , then tr in the broth and

o f? fat s fu o f u take the . Melt a poon l b tter in

u a add a s a sa cep n , a minced onion and mall

a b c ut fi n e c five white c b age . Stir and ook m add o f inutes ; then a pint the broth, and

k u c ut m sm coo one ho r . Then the eat in all s ua s k a q re , thic en the broth with a large t ble

fu o f ut a . t spoon l flour , p the cabb ge and mea

a u b u i t in tureen and po r the roth pon , and

serve very hot .

Sal mon Pasty(N orway and Sweden). Two

ds o f sa m c s c ut d poun l on utlet , thin , brea ed ,

a n d f b i n b u f . ried rown tter, and le t to cool

1 1 2 IN FOREIGN KITCHENS .

two o f n s an d b C or the o ion roth . o v er all w a o f a - m s do t ith a l yer bre d cru b , with bits o f

an d k i n u n butter, ba e a q ick ove till b rown

u fifte e n m abo t inutes .

Srasi s R uss C h fi ( ian). 0 p n e two p oun ds of l ean beef and a quarter o f a pound o f suet ;

o f a an d m i x mince the onions and a bit g rlic , al l fu o f sa a f together with two teaspoon ls lt, h l

o f s m s o f d a one pepp er, and o e prigs mince

R - c parsley. oll in bread rumbs and cook in a a s - an r fo r br i ing p , with a ve y little broth ,

o f as d one hour. Serve with a border m he potato .

Stasi s wi th F i n e Her b s P l ( olish). C ut vea

s c ut v s u s an d o n cutlet , ery thin , into q are , each square p ut a layer o f forcemeat made

f w " fin e a df as ollo s Mince two onions , han ul

s m s s o f a s o f fre h mushroo s , and ome sprig p r l e add c u o f f s b - b y, and a p re h read crum s , a

f o f u f n fu spoon ul melted b tter, hal a teaspoo l o f o f e salt, a pinch cayenne , and two beat n

Put a o f o n eggs. thin layer this each

Fr m square ; roll tight and tie . y the brown

m a u fu in b utter. Then pour over the c p l A AN D TH E . 1 1 NORW Y , SWEDEN , NORTH 3

o f . broth , cover closely, and stew one hour

d ak H alf a c up o f red wine is often ad ed . T e o ut th e rolls ; remove the thread ; thicke n

v s f o f flo ur the gra y with a tea poon ul , and

m x pour over the . These are e cellent.

o r od s i s f v d s ' R g . Thi a a orite i h in both

w we e c an o f N or ay and S d n , and be made

u k s o f an y acid fruit j ice . Ta e three pint

u u o f a t u c rrant j ice , three pin ts w er, one po nd

a an d f an u o f s - o f sug r, hal o nce tick cinna m o n b . o ut c i n , and ring to a boil Take the

c an us m s an d namon , which be ed many ti e , A had better be in a little b ag . dd to th e boiling juice one and a half pounds o f arrow

u o f d s a root or one po nd soake ago , dding it s fu m a u lowly and care lly that it y not l mp , d B m i an d stirring stea ily. oil fo r fifte e n n u s n u s u s te ; then tur into teac ps or mall mo ld ,

s v fir m Eat and er e when cold and . with m u crea and s gar .

S edi sh S l ad C ut w a . enough cold chicken

m h l l a ak s in s all bits to a te cup . T e the ame

o f f- u o f s amount bee tong e , smoked almon , a n d o f fil e ts o f cooked sole . Cut two boiled 8 N I 1 14 I FORE GN KITCHENS .

s f at a carrot in bits , our cold boiled pot oes,

fu o n - cup l f stri g beans c ut in bits . Pour o ver th ese ve getables a spoonful o f oil and two o f v x fu o f inegar mi ed , with a teaspoon l salt and

f a e m a pinch o c yenne pepper . L t the lie i n this fo r an hour ; m i x with the meat ; add f u s fu o f a n s d n o r poon ls m yo nai e ressi g , and

i n s w s s pile the alad bo l , garni hing with lips o f pickled beet.

Watrouski s G fu o f . rate a cup l an y delicate

s add s fu o f u chee e , and a poon l b tter, a pinch

- o f a s fu o f . to m ce , and a salt p oon l salt Add

s e two thi one whole gg and yolks , with one

f flo ur . B a m R spoonful o e t till s ooth . oll

- uds. puff paste thin , and cut in small ro n Wet the edges and l ay round them a strip o f x u thicker paste . Fill them with the mi t re , and bake in a moderate oven fo r about twenty

m d n w . inutes, or till a gol e bro n

Var en i ki s (Sweden and Poland). Prepare

' ve u R cheese as i n th e ab o r le . oll a thin sheet o f puff- paste ; l ay on the mixture in

as s te poonfuls . Moisten the pa te between

m a l a t. the in regul r lines , y on another shee

1 1 6 I R I I N FO E GN K TCHENS .

w a fu of - ith tablespoon l rose water, to a sm ooth paste ; quarter o f a cocoanut grated

fin e o f s ff wo ; two whites eggs beaten ti , and t tablespoonfuls o f sug ar added ; one c up o f

b s d a n d o f rich oiled cu tar , one cup sweet

m f . Mi x m s c rea , whipped to a roth the al ond

f w o f e with hal the prepared hite gg , and the f u k cocoanut with the other hal . C t the ca e

z a f an in hori ontal slices , h l inch thick , right

n across the loaf. O the bottom slice put m m x so e al ond cream , on the ne t the cocoa

al l b ut s s nut, and coat the top lice , pre sing

b i s all together fir m ly. N ow with a large cuit- c utter or sharp knife c ut o ut the centre m h o f the cake down to the botto slice, whic must not be c ut Leave the sides about an

k c ut inch thick . Put the ca e out in a bowl d r r ub . ad wi th the custa d , and smooth Then

fu o f e the whipped cream , with a spoon l orang

fil l o f . flowe r water, and the centre the cake

o n . a lemon , and set it ice till wanted

TH E EN D.