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late to prevent the exodus of another group of great mention from Penedès that are called , producers, who formed the Corpinnat association. Penedès or Corpinnat... PREMIUM SPANISH FIZZ In parallel, another also decided to adopt On the other hand, it is a gift for the lover. The high-quality sparkling wines. In 2017, ’s governing quantity and average quality of sparkling wines is better The Spanish scene has become increasingly fragmented, but overall quality has body created a new category for sparkling Rioja – a than ever before. The diversity, due both to and to risen. Pedro Ballesteros Torres MW shares 18 of Spain’s best, from the Cava DO and beyond fitting change, given that the first recorded Spanish human ingenuity, is also increasing. sparkling wine was made in Rioja, according to little- Most of the best wines here have two things in known documents from 1848. What’s more, several common. First: the is key. The most refined ntil the turn of the century, understanding market, not yet on the label. All wines, no matter their in Rioja are already producing sparkling wines examples are single-vineyard wines, many of them Spanish sparkling wine was easy. Spain quality, were just Cava. under the Cava DO. cultivated using biodynamic or organic methods. produced a single category, Cava, which Some producers were angry at the situation and left Nonetheless, the Cava appellation continued its Second: ageing. Top wines need long ageing. In was mostly, but not only, from . the DO. They created a new sub-appellation, Clàssic endeavours. Many of the DO’s remaining producers particular, bottle ageing in the cellar under (rather Cava used to be cheap and cheerful, Penedès. In addition, Raventós i Blanc – owned by reacted by impressively increasing the quality of their than metal caps, as is most common) results in amazing Ucheaper than and better quality than descendants of the ‘inventor’ of Cava – decided to work wines, and nowadays Cava is one of the most thoroughly smoothness and complexity. Pedro Ballesteros Torres Charmat-method wines. in SuperTuscan style, outside the appellation system. defined classifications in Spain. I hope that one day all the great producers of MW is a widely published Then, confusion set in. First, a number of relatively The first defections moved the appellation to Penedès get together once again under the name of wine journalist, educator small producers aimed for the highest quality – and recognise that fine Cava is a reality, and that its potential Diversity and quality Cava, or whatever title they choose. Recognising and and judge. He is a member achieved it. Some excelled in understanding old for quality is extremely high. Cava segmented itself from On the one hand, sparkling today is a protecting quality on a wider scale would be helpful for of the Gran Orden de , others mastered ageing, a few became great the top down by creating the Cava de Paraje Calificado nightmare for students of wine, with so many all. For the time being, we’ll live with the current Caballeros del Vino and at both. In one decade, several very good wines received (single-vineyard Cava) category, which was successful that cannot be distinguished by tasting. landscape of Spanish sparkling – the wines are worthier on the governing board of market acclaim, and icon Cava was born – but only in the in highlighting the best wines. However, it arrived too There is Cava from Rioja, as well as sparkling Rioja, not to than the words. the Spanish Tasters’ Union

Raventós i Blanc, Mas del Serral Llopart, Original 1887 Brut Can Sala, Anyades Històriques Vins El Cep, Claror Gran Reserva Colet Navazos, Clàssic Penedès Loxarel, Cent Nou 109 Clàssic Brut Nature, Catalonia 2009 99 Nature, Corpinnat 2009 97 Gran Reserva Brut Nature 2005 96 Brut Nature 2014 94 Reserva Extra Brut 2017 93 Penedès Brut Nature, Catalonia 93 £190/magnum (ib) Cru £36.80 (2011) Bibenbum Wine, Exel £39.95 The Robin’s Nest Lewes £40 Amathus Drinks £40 Indigo Wine 2006 The most refined Spanish sparkling wine I’ve So close to perfection. An organic blend of This Cava de Paraje Calificado is even subtler This relatively unknown single-vineyard, A delicious blend of the flagship Penedès style £90 The Northern Wine & Beer Co ever tasted. Despite ageing 17 months in vat Xarel.lo, and Montònega (a local and deeper than previous releases – indeed, biodynamic Cava de Paraje Calificado with a touch. Pure Xarel.lo, organic, but An original wine that gives insight to the and 100 months in bottle, it shows pristine biotype of ) that’s far more than the the wine is disgorged on request. It is deserves much attention. It has a rare the liqueur d’expédition for the second virtues of traditional-method ageing – though fruit, intriguing stone aromas, zesty freshness. sum of its parts. Delicious, with a refined fermented and aged in , then left on its complexity on the nose, with excellent fermentation is a drop of palo cortado, it technically can’t be classified as such, since it Delicate texture; layered flavours linger on the old-wine texture, but fresh fruit and elegant in bottle for more than 12 years. It gathers definition and a charming extra element of selected by premium Sherry specialist Equipo wasn’t disgorged. Released after 109 months’ palate. From an old-vine single vineyard with lees ageing expression. Slow, open finish. oxidative vinosity and reductive development, slight development. Harmonious, with a soft Navazos. The result is fascinating: the wine ageing on its lees, it’s not the prettiest, but it’s Xarel.lo and Bastard Negre (a local biotype of It’s all about balance, and worlds apart from in a way that only the purest must can sustain. texture and a vibrant finish. Very Catalan, attains an even drier character with a hint of delicious. Complex, fresh, with intense biscuit Graciano). A top biodynamic terroir wine and a Champagne: pure Penedès. The best Llopart A most ‘Champagne-ish’ Cava, and very Cava, but also in a class of its own. noble development, yet keeps its Cava and brioche aromas to complement Xarel.lo’s masterwork. Drink 2021-2039 Alcohol 12.5% wine I’ve tasted. Drink 2021-2029 Alc 11.8% inexpensive. Drink 2021-2035 Alc 12.5% Drink 2021-2027 Alc 12% identity. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12.5% citrus, grassy notes. Drink 2021-2036 Alc 12%

Gramona, Celler Batlle Júlia Bernet, María Bernet Brut Recaredo, Subtil Brut Nature, Sumarroca, Núria Claverol Agustí Torelló Mata, Barrica Alta Alella, Mirgin Exeo Gran Biblioteca de Añadas Brut, Nature, Corpinnat 2009 94 Corpinnat 2015 94 Homenatge Gran Reserva Brut, Gran Reserva Brut Nature, Reserva Brut Nature 2015 92 Corpinnat 2005 96 £80 Iberian Drinks N/A UK www.recaredo.com Cava 2014 93 Cava 2015 92 £65 Georges Barbier POA Available via UK agent Enotria&Coe Aged on its lees for six months before the An entry point to understand the top terroirist £45 Alliance Wine, HarperWells, The Grape to Glass N/A UK www.agustitorellomata.com Single-vineyard organic Cava de Paraje The masters of ageing in Catalonia go a step second fermentation. Discreet, understated in Penedès. The wine’s name suits it, as it’s all The luxury cuvée by Sumarroca, in a very well I tend to dismiss Cava fermented in barrel, but Calificado from an area close to , further with this wine, ageing it for more than aromas with great integration of ageing and about subtlety, with a suave but persistent crafted style, from a selected Xarel.lo plot, and this wine proves me wrong. It has a complex where the saulò (decomposed granite) soil 10 years on the lees, disgorging, then ageing fruit expressions. Velvety texture, complex expression, delicate texture and understated with very discreet dosage. Elegant, rounded, array of aromas and flavours, fills the mouth gives a distinctive character to this blend of for five more years. It proves that top sparkling and poised style on the palate, with a refinement on the long finish. Everything about very attractive. Indeed, charm and elegance while keeping finesse, and is very persistent. 40% and local Pansà Blanca Catalan wine is well worth cellaring: complex multilayered, open finish. Pure, very dry style. it is pure terroir: made entirely from a selected are this wine’s best attributes. But the Bubbles are there just to enhance the vinosity. (Xarel.lo). Austere, serious, with aromatic brioche notes mingling with truffle and bitter One of the nicest surprises of this tasting. local clone of Xarel.lo; biodynamic; even the background is quite serious, with delicate Excellent style, more for the table than for precision, a round mouthfeel and expressive almond hints. Distinctive and very harmonious. Drink 2021-2029 Alc 12.5% sugar for the second fermentation comes from creaminess and a remarkably persistent finish. parties, with a touch of what I would simply finish. Deservedly at the top of Cava’s Biodynamic. Drink 2021-2035 Alc 12.5% local Xarel.lo must. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 10.5% Luxury, that is. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12.5% call beauty. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 12% hierarchy. Drink 2021-2025 Alc 12% ➢

120 | March 2021 • Decanter • March 2021 | 121 Expert’s choice

Maria Rigol Ordi, Gran Reserva Mestres, Visol Gran Reserva Brut Miquel Pons, Montargull Crianza Brut Nature, Cava 2014 92 Nature, Cava 2013 92 con Corcho Gran Reserva Brut 92 £29 Tannico £26.49 (2012) Gauntleys Nature, Cava 2014 Great example of the benefits of long ageing for Mestres’ speciality is long-aged Cavas, ageing £45 Pix Pintxos Bars top Cava. Intense biscuit and brioche aromas, the base wine in oak, then bottle-ageing under A small producer, with an original style of dried fruit and leaves, with a liquor hint that cork closures, giving a more complex profile. Cava. Some oxidative development provides provides elegance. Round, archetypal old The resulting wines show development and complexity and vivacious lees aromas. The Cava texture, creamy, somehow opulent, rich. are very austere and tense, extremely dry, with wine was aged for 60 months under a cork A small producer with an attractive offering. a particular expression. The oak influence is closure. I suspect it will be particularly Drink 2021-2024 Alc 11.5% evident but well integrated, and the ripe fruit appreciated by and wine lovers gives dry fruit aromas. Bubbles for attentive looking for alternative expressions. Slow and enjoyment. Drink 2021-2028 Alc 12.1% intense finish. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 11%

Vivanco, Cuvée Inédita Reserva Roger Goulart, Gran Reserva Mas Comtal, Xarel.lo Clàssic Extra Brut, Rioja 2017 92 Brut, Cava 2012 91 Penedès Reserva Brut, Catalonia POA Bibenbum Wine £19 Fountainhall Wines, Islington Wine, Luvians, 2016 90 A world apart from Cava, being produced in Roberts & Speight, Vino Wines, Whole Foods Market £16 L’Altre Vi the Rioja region. An Atlantic, cool-climate One of the rare successes of ‘foreign’ wineries in Textbook expression of the Xarel.lo grape style, crisp acidity and intense stone fruit. fine Cava territory, Rioja-based CVNE improves variety in a Catalonian sparkling wine. Austere, Mouthfilling, with an elegant hint of bitterness year after year the quality of its top cuvées. This tense, fresh but not crisp, balanced and firmly and steely dryness yet restraint on the finish. gran reserva is a reference for top classic, aged structured. More characterised by the variety The first time I’ve ever tasted a sparkling wine Cava, integrating fine brioche and yeasty notes than by the ageing; not particularly complex made with Maturana Blanca (45%) and with touches of tropical and citrus fruit. Soft and but very open. Affordable, a good wine with Blanco (30%), along with 15% easygoing on the palate, it gives a very open which to get to know the fine sparkling wines Viura and 10% Chardonnay. Very promising. aftertaste, marked by the long ageing. A most of this area. Organic. Drink 2021-2022 Alc 12% Drink 2021-2027 Alc 12% affordable luxury. Drink 2021-2024 Alc 12%

Can Sala cellars, Sant Quintí de Mediona

122 | March 2021 • Decanter