252 THIRD CLIMATE

SECOND SECTION

Baghaï – Cabsa – Bone – Bizerte – Tabarca – Cabes – Sfaks – Tunis – Ruines de Carthage – Mahdia – Tripoli – Leptis.

This section includes cities, countries, fortresses, castles and people of various origins. Among the number of the places which we will mention are Camouda , Baghaï ,

Meskiana , Medjana , Badja , Bona (Bone), the port of Kharaz

, Benzert , Arbes , Mar-madjena , Castilia ,

Nilfan (or Bilcan ), Takious , Zaroud , Cabsa (ou Cafsa ), Nafta , Alhama , Tunis , Aclibia , Heraclia , Sousa

, Mahdia , Sfaks , Cabes , Raghogha , Sabrat , Tripoli et Lebda (Leptis). The forts, citadels and dwellings located on the littoral will be described at the end of this section, if God wills. Baghaî is a large city surrounded by a double stone wall; it has a suburb also surrounded with walls where the markets were held formerly which are currently held in the city itself, the suburb having been abandoned in consequence of the frequent incursions of the Arabs. It is a place remarkable for the quantity of dates that it produces. A river runs there which comes from the south; one finds there also abundant wells, but the number of these wells is not as considerable as it was formerly. Formerly there was much spring water and a great number of dwellings. The surroundings are inhabited by Berbers who traffic with the Arabs; - p.253- their main resources consist of corn and barley. They consign the management of their affairs to sheiks. Close by, at the distance of only a few miles, is the mountain of Aouras , the length of which is about 12 days journey, and which is inhabited by tribes which exert a great influence on their neighbors. From Baghaï to Constantine, is 3 days. From Baghaî to Tobna, of the country of Zab, 4 days. From Baghaî to Castilia, also 4 days.

This last city, also called Tawzer , is surrounded by a strong wall, and its vicinity is covered with palm trees which produce dates highly valued in all Africa. Beautiful lemons with an excellent taste are also found there, and fruits and vegetables in abundance; but the water tastes bad, is indigestible and often rare, and they are obliged to bring it from a distance. The corn and barley there do not grow abundantly. Nearby, to the south-east and at a short day’s distance, is located the city of Alhama, where the water is also not of good quality, but where many palm trees are found. From there to Takious, one counts about 20 miles. Takious is located between Alhama and Cabsa . Cereals are sown there; they cultivate henna, cumin and parsnip. The country produces excellent dates and vegetables in abundance. From Takious to Cabsa is one day. This last city is surrounded by a wall and is rather pretty; it has a river of which the water is better than that of Castilia. In the middle of the city is a source of water known as el- tarmiz . The bazaars of Cabsa are very busy and the factories are in a prosperous state. One sees, around the city, - p.254- many plantations of palm trees, gardens, orchards and country houses. Cereals are cultivated there, as well as henna, cumin and cotton. The inhabitants of this city are Berbers, and the majority of 1 From the ideas revealed in the account of them speak the Latin-Greek language 1. Egypt by Abd-Allatif, translated by M. de Sacy, p. 496 and 499, and after advice from Moving towards the south-west, the city closest to M. Et. Quatremère, we believe it necessary to substitute the word agriki for the word the one we have just described is Cassira , to afriki , which we read clearly in our two manuscripts. the East of which are Nacaous and Hamounes , places which are very similar, as much for the quality of the water, as for the nature of their products. Many dates are collected there, but corn is rare and they are obliged to bring it from elsewhere. Cabsa is a central place compared to various others, for example; from Cabsa to Caïrowan, in traveling north, one spends 4 days going south-west. From Cabsa to Bilcan , a town provided with water, but ruined since the time when the Arabs took control, 4 days to the south.

To Zaroud , located near the mountain of Nofusa, 5 days. To Nafta , a city where running water is found, and where the inhabitants devote themselves to trade and agriculture, 2 short days. From Gabsa to Nefsawa (or Naczawa ), in a southern direction, 2 days and something. From Tawzer to Nefzawa, a good day and a half. From Cabsa, heading towards the south, to the mountain of Nofousa, approximately 6 days. - p255 - This mountain is the highest and it extends for a distance of approximately 3 days journey. There two cities are located of which one, called Charous is provided with running water, surrounded by vines which produce excellent grapes, and fig trees. In fact for cereal, there they cultivates barley with which they manufacture excellent bread; the inhabitants of this city having the reputation of being skilful bakers. From Cabsa to Sfaks, 3 days. Between the mountains of Nofousa and the town of Nfzawa is located the town of Louhaoa , to the west of which, at a little distance, are Biskara and Maous . All these cities are about the same size, populous and commercial. From the mountain of Nofousa to Warcalan (or Wardjelan), one counts 12 days. From Nafta to Cabes , one day and something. Cabes is a well populated large city, whose surroundings are covered with gardens and orchards which produce several varieties of fruits; one finds there corn, dates and various manufactured objects that one would seek in vain elsewhere. Around Cabes are planted olive-trees and the city is girded with a very solid wall, and surrounded by ditch. The bazaars offer a great diversity of goods. Beautiful silk fabrics were formerly manufactured in this city, but today the principal industry consists of the preparation of leathers intended for export. The river which runs through Cabes comes from a big lake, 3 miles away and on the edges of which Cassr-Sadja is located, a well populated borough; the town of Cabes is about 3 miles away from it. As for Cassr-Sadja, this is a small town whose bazaar is located alongside the sea, and where one counts many silk manufacturers. There they drink the water from the river of Cabes; - p.256- this water is not very good, but the inhabitants are obliged to be satisfied with it. Cabes is located at a distance of 6 miles from the sea, to the north and near a wood limited by contiguous sands extending for a mile. This wood is composed of a combination of orchards, vines and olive-trees (the oil being the object of a great trade). One finds there also palm trees which produce dates of a quantity and sweetness beyond praise. The inhabitants of Cabes have the habit of gathering them fresh and placing them in vases; after a certain time, a honey-like substance covers the surface of the vase. One cannot eat these dates until this honey disappears, but then there is no fruit, even in the countries famous for their dates, which is comparable with this one. 1 This fact has been remarked by Shaw and The port of Cabes is very poor, because one does not have shelter various other authors.. from the winds. The boats drop anchor in a small river where the action of the tide is evident 1 and where only ships of a low tonnage can moor. The tide there varies at about the distance of the flight of an arrow. People of the country are difficult to bear, vain, proud and thieves in a large way. From Cabes to Sfaks , one counts, following the edge of the gulf, 70 miles. From Cabes to Capsa, while moving towards the south-west, 3 days. Sfaks is an old and well populated city; its markets are numerous, its buildings vast. One notices there a bazaar built of stone whose doors are covered with thick iron blades. Above its walls are towers intended - p.257- for the housing of the troops. Spring water is drunk there. The most beautiful fruits are brought there from Cabes and one can get them cheaply. They catch much excellent fish there; fishing generally takes place by means of nets laid out carefully in calm water. The principal production of the country consists of olives; it is impossible to find better oil than that of Sfaks. The port is very good, and, all in all, the country offers many resources; the inhabitants like ostentation and wealth. This city was taken by Roger the Great in 543 of the Hegira (1148 AD); although it is still well-populated, its prosperity is not what it was formerly. King Roger maintains a governor there. From Sfaks to Mahdia , takes 2 days. This last city offers a port the most frequented by the ships coming from the East and the West, from Spain, Greece and other regions. Formerly, goods were brought there in quantity and for immense sums. At the present time the trade has decreased there. Al- Mahdia was the port and warehouse of Caïrowan ; it was founded by Al-Mahdi Obeîd-Allah which gave it its name. Located on a peninsula which advances into the sea, it is a crossing point when one wants to go by Raccada to Caïrowan. The distance between Caïrowan and Mahdia is 2 days. This last city was formerly extremely busy and the trade flourished there, because the travellers often established themselves there or returned there 1 We follow the most frequently 1; the buildings were beautiful, the dwelling places or open probable meaning, our two manuscripts being spaces were pleasant, and the baths magnificent, the caravanserais very defective here. numerous, finally Mahdia offered a charming view in that its inhabitants were generally beautiful and well - p.258- dressed. They manufactured very fine and very beautiful fabrics, known as Mahdia fabrics and of which there was always a considerable export trade, because the fabrics were inimitable according to all the reports. The water drunk from wells or cisterns in Mahdîa, is not of good quality. The city is surrounded by walls of stone and is closed by means of two doors built out of iron blades superimposed without the use of wood. Throughout the Maghreb nor elsewhere deos there exist anything so skilfully or so strongly manufactured, and it is a very curious object; for the rest, Mahdia has neither gardens, nor orchards, nor plantations of date palms; fruits are brought there from the castles of Monastir , located 30 miles away by sea. These castles, three of them, are inhabited by monks to which the Arabs do not make any evil and whose dwellings and orchards they respect. It is to Monastir that the inhabitants of Mahdia go, by sea and by boats, to bury their dead, because they do not have a cemetery in their territory. Nowadays, Mahdia is composed of two cities, these being, Al-Mahdia itself and Zawila 1. The first is used as residence for the sultan and his 1 This corresponds to that which we troops; it is dominated by a castle built in the most solid way, read in the Chrestomathia arabe of M. de Sacy, Vol. I, p. 496, and in the and in which one saw, before the conquest of this city by Roger Notice d’un manuscrit contenant la description de l’Afrique published by the Great in 543 (1148), the reservoir known as the Vaults of M. Ét. Quatremère, page 46. Gold in which the princes of the country took pride. Mahdia (in the past) had been taken by Hassan, son of Ali, son of Tennin, son of Moëz, son of Badis, son of Al- Mansour, son of Belkin, son of Zeîri Sanhadji. Zawila is remarkable for the beauty of its bazars and of - p.259- its buildings, and by the width of its streets and its crossroads. One counts many rich and intelligent traders there. The inhabitants of this city wear white clothing, so that, by physical and moral qualities, they 1 are models of perfection ; indeed their commercial knowledge is very 1 This observation comes extensive and their regularity in business is beyond praise. from the Oriental idea that the color white is the The city is surrounded, on the landward side as well as on that of most significant. the sea, by stone walls, and along the first of these sides runs a large ditch which fills by means of rain water. Outside to the west, there existed before the invasion of the Arabs into Africa, a vast enclosure remarkable for the beauty and the sweetness of the fruits that it produced, but all the plantations have disappeared. At Zawila there are villages, castles, smallholdings whose inhabitants devote themselves to agriculture and the care of cattle. The productions of the country are carbon, barley, olives; much of the oil is exported to the Levant. The towns of Mahdia and Zawila are separate from one another by a space of about the distance that an arrow flies, and which is named Ramlé . Since Mahdia is the capital of Africa, it is with the description of this city that 2 This is missing in the manuscripts. A. M. we finish that of this country, to pass then to Nefzawat Hartmann writes Nekzawa. See what he says on the subject of Sobeïtala, Edris. Afr. , p. 253, 2. 254. See also, relating to this town (the ancient Sufetula), Shaw, page 259 of the French We thus say that before Islam Sobeïtala translation. was the town of Gerges, king (or rather of Gregoire, prefect) of the Romans of Africa; it was remarkable in its extent as well as by the beauty of its appearance, for the abundance of its - p.260- water, the gentleness of its climate and its wealth. It was surrounded by orchards and gardens. The Moslems seized it in the first years of the Hegira, and put to death the great king named Gerges. From there to Cabsa one counts a little more than one day, and to Caïrowan, 70 miles.