Making a Splash

in English Summer’s July here 2018 The magazine for the holiday season in southern Spain

Making a splash

Swimming, paddling, river hiking, diving, drinking... water is the key ingredient for a perfect summer

Taking a break in style. Exclusive villas and fancy beach clubs

Entertainment. A sizzling agenda of live music on the Costa del Sol

WHAT’S INSIDE

Cover photo: Cool thrills at the water park. Youngsters enjoy a day out in the water at Aqualand in Tor- remolinos, one of several parks on the Costa del Sol. :: SALVADOR SALAS

SUR IN ENGLISH SUMMER SPECIAL The sounds of summer Director General: José Luis Romero Editor-in -Chief: Manuel Castillo Publications Director: Pedro Luis RACHEL HAYNES zine crosses the border into Granada prov- Gómez ince to find the Vía Verde near Almuñé- After this year’s somewhat unstable car, with its natural swimming pools and Editor: Rachel Haynes spring (I refer to the weather although spectacular waterfalls. Assistant editor: Daryl Finch perhaps the adjective could equally apply Reservoir levels are higher than last to politics or sport) summer has arrived year which is good news for fans of inland Commercial Director: Jorge Artero with authority to restore the uniform bathing and watersports, as well as for the Advertising Manager: Emma Vera blue to the skies above southern Spain - at water supply in a region whose popula- Art Director: Francisco Ruano least at the time of writing. tion multiplies in the summer. The threat Now school’s out and the sea and pools of drought restrictions has been held off Contributors to this magazine: are full of splashing children, beach bars this year but that doesn’t mean that we Andrew Forbes, Debbie Bartlett, Jen- are doing a roaring trade, umbrellas have can relax our water-saving measures. nie Rhodes, Tony Bryant, Denise been moved to the back of the shops and Gardens have also benefited from the Bush, Maddy Hay, Gabriela Berner weather websites have seen their visitor spring rainfall, making this a good year to figures go right down as we trust the sum- take time to stroll through the town park Date: July 2018. mer to behave as it should. or visit botanical gardens such as La Con- The rainy and unpredictable spring cepción in Malaga or El Molino de Inca in may have dampened the plans of some Torremolinos, featured in this edition. tourists and locals but it has left its mark Water influences the sounds of our on this summer season. The countryside summer - the splashing of bathers, the as you head inland away from the sand bubbling of mountain streams, the pour- and concrete is greener than it has been in ing of a waterfall - during the day, but drier years and more inviting for those come the evening it’s time to lend our wishing to explore some of the area’s var- ears to music with the full and varied pro- ied hiking routes. The spring rainfall has gramme of concerts and festivals on the Published by Prensa Malagueña S.A. meant that rivers and streams are fresher Costa del Sol this season. www.surinenglish.com and livelier than in some previous years. This magazine aims to provide plenty @SUR_English There are numerous “water walks” of ideas of how to fill the season’s warm Advertising: [email protected] around southern Spain, the Chíllar river days and nights, as well as providing 952649669 route in Nerja perhaps being the most fa- plenty to read while relaxing with the Editorial: [email protected] mous, but this year our summer maga- sounds of summer in background. 952649741

3 WHAT’S INSIDE

A beach for all tastes

If it were straightened out, the coastline of the region of Andalucía would stretch for the best partp of a thousand kilometres. So if you rate peace and quietuiet above serviceservices then there’s no excuse to stay on the crowded beachesaachesches ofof the Costa del Sol. Here is a just a smalll selectionselection fromfrom Huelva to Almeria. 6

Holiday in style Marbella’s famous beach clubs where champagne flows freely and sunbeds cost more than your flight; ultra-luxury holiday villas with private art collections,,p spa therapists and infinity pools; residential areas withith qualityquality golfgolgolf and exclusive services.... see how far your holidayhololidayiday spendspend-- ing money will stretch. 10

Back to nature Get your feet wet hiking along the Río Verde in the province of Granada and explore the magicalag ca landscape a dscape of El Torcall46 at sunsetsunseunset A busy Seasonal agenda flavour Surprises in town

A guide to the many con- An insight into how the The holiday season gives us more time to explore the certs, music festivals and fresh fish reaches our table towns we don’t know or find shady and surprising cor- events to fill thetewa warm and how ouruavoute favourite ners of the places we think we knowwwe well. . The eu urban ba evenings onon thethe CostaCosta deldel beach bars cookcook it,it, fol-fol- summer section takes us from the botanicalotanicalninicalcal gardengarden inin Sol this summer.ummmmer.mer. lowed by refreshingeefreshingfreshing waterwater-- Torremolinos, through the villages ofof thethhee Axarquía, past melon treats.atts. street art in Marbella, down to the localocal street market 64 76 and around Gibraltar. 20

4 5 ON THE COSTAS

Sandy shores that take your breath away

With town centres bathed in heat, plan your beach escape; after all, there are plenty to choose from in Andalucía...

Nearly six hundred miles of province of Andalucía is Almeria whe- Cadiz and the Doñana National Park in sandy beaches, rugged cliffs re much of the beautiful rugged the province of Huelva. Here are just coastline is protected as part of the some of the finest beaches that Anda- and rocky coves are ready to Cabo de Gata nature reserve, on the lucía has to offer. be explored this summer edge of Europe’s only desert. Moving VANESSA SWALES further west, we cross the border into El Rompido Granada province and the Costa Tropi- Cartaya, Costa de la Luz cal, so-called for its unique climate and El Rompido in Cartaya (province of production of tropical fruits. Heading Huelva) on the Costa de la Luz is a The coastline of Andalucía stretches into the province of Malaga, the cliffs small fishing village, situated right by for some 945 kilometres, from the bor- and coves disappear, giving way to the the mouth of a river estuary. It is a der with Murcia on the Mediterranean long sandy stretches of beach in the beach that has barely been developed to Portugal on the Atlantic. That’s Costa del Sol’s popular holiday resorts. as it is located in the Marismas de Río nearly 600 miles of spectacular sandy Finally, as the Mediterranean joins Pedras y Flecha del Rompido nature beaches, rugged cliffs, rocky coves and with the Atlantic Ocean, the Costa del reserve. It is a perfect trip for nature- flat marshlands. Not all beaches are Sol turns into the Costa de la Luz, fa- lovers. You can even get a boat to a the same, though, and southern Spain mous for its neverending white, sandy more isolated part of the beach, if you certainly has variety. The most eastern beaches that border the ancient city of wish.

El Rompido in Cartaya, Costa de la Luz. :: SUR 7 ON THE COSTAS

Matalascañas Almonte, Costa de la Luz This is the closest beach you will find to Seville. Although it is predominantly seen as a busy holiday resort town, Ma- talascañas also has more secluded parts with its white sand dunes in the Doña- na National Park, where access is only by foot or bike. The main stretch of Ma- talascañas is popular with visitors and teenagers due to its lively atmosphere The white sand beaches of Playa de Bolonia, Costa de la Luz. :: SUR and abundance of chiringuitos and its strong wind and so attracts sunbeds. many wind and kitesurfers throughout the year. However, it Playa de la can get pretty breezy there, so Barrosa check out windguru.com for in- Chiclana de la formation on when the ‘Levante’ Frontera, Costa de is passing through. la Luz Regularly labelled Playa de Cabopino one of the best bea- (Marbella, Costa del Sol) ches in the south of The famous holiday resort of Mar- Spain due to its ave- bella has 27 kilometres of coastli- rage of over 300 ne for its thousands of tourists to days of sunshine choose their spot on. Cabopino is per year and its perhaps one of the quietest, lying deep blue waters, in one of the area’s few non-urba- La Barrosa, in Chi- nised stretches of coastline. The clana de la Frontera, beach is backed by an area of na- is a must for beach tural sand dunes, known as Du- lovers on the Cadiz nas de Artola, which have been coastline. The beach granted protection due to their stretches for eight environmental value. With a sec- kilometres and is as Cala el Cañuelo, Costa del Sol. :: SUR tion reserved for naturists, Cabopi- wide as 100 metres in no is a pleasant change from the some places. It is divided into three sec- more crowded beaches lined with busy tions from the quieter stretches in the promenades and large hotels, so typical south to the busiest more urbanised area of other resorts on the Costa del Sol. to the north. The Sancti Petri castle is vi- sible from part of the beach. Playa de la Caleta Malaga, Costa del Sol Playa de Bolonia La Caleta is considered one of the Costa Tarifa, Costa de la Luz del Sol’s most beautiful urban beaches, Just up the coast from kitesurfers’ para- located not far from the heart of the city dise Tarifa lies the Playa de Bolonia (Ca- of Malaga. A favourite among locals and diz province), a beach that can often be tourists, La Caleta is lined with chirin- overlooked as it is a bit off the beaten guitos (beach bars) and has all facilities track on the Costa de la Luz. This beach within easy reach, from showers, to wa- features a huge sand dune at one end. tersports. Heading east from the city It’s well worth a climb to the top, for the centre, it’s worth going just a little fur- views looking down over the tree tops ther to La Caleta to avoid the more to the clear blue Mediterranean. Bolonia crowded Malagueta beach. beach also boasts the Roman ruins of Baelo Claudia, as well as a couple of Cala el Cañuelo beach restaurants. Like the rest of the Nerja, Costa del Sol Cadiz coastline, the beach is known for La Barrosa, Costa de la Luz. :: SUR A beautiful cove located near Nerja on

8 Playa de Los Muertos, Costa de Almería. :: WWW.DEGATA.COM La Herradura, on the Costa Tropical. :: SALVADOR RODRÍGUEZ the eastern Costa del Sol, the Cala el La Herradura Punta de la Mona beach is also in La He- Cañuelo is a popular place among lo- Almuñécar, Costa Tropical rradura and another haven for scuba di- cals for a day out on the beach. In the This pebbly horseshoe-shaped beach in vers. The Costa Tropical is the closest protected area of the Maro-Cerro Gor- the municipality of Almuñécar on the coastline to the Sierra Nevada moun- do cliffs, access to this beach is not Costa Tropical (Granada province) tains, making skiing and swimming in easy, which adds to its charm. attracts a number of watersports aficio- the sea possible on the same day during Cars have to be parked at the top of nados, who head for La Herradura to go the winter sports season. the cliff and bathers can either climb windsurfing and scuba diving. Those down the winding path or catch the who decide to go underwater get the Playa de los Muertos bus laid on by the town hall in the chance to check out the wreckage of six- Carboneras, Costa de Almería summer. teenth-century Spanish galleons. The The Playa de los Muertos on the Costa

9 La Caleta, on the eastern side of the city of Malaga. :: SUR de Almería is famous for being an almost totally straight strip of sand, which is bordered by the huge rocks typical of the Cabo de Gata nature reserve. Like others on this stretch of coastline the beach is quite secluded due to the difficult access on foot down steep paths from the car park. The beach is a favourite among naturists, although it is mixed. There are no facilities in this protected strip of coastline, so take your own food and water.

Playa de los Genoveses Níjar, Costa de Almería Also in the Cabo de Gata nature reserve the Playa de los Genoveses is a litt- Matalascañas, Costa de la Luz. :: SUR Cabopino, Costa de la Luzl Sol le-known, undeveloped beach. The beach is beautifully picturesque with The car park is a short walk from the distance a bus service is laid on, but its shallow waters, gently rolling du- beach and in peak tourist season when don’t expect anything more - it’s just nes and impressive cliffs at one end. no more cars can park within walking Mother Nature.

BEACH INFORMATION Cala El Cañuelo. In Maro, Nerja, Mala- towards Cadiz on the N-340 until sig- ga. 350 metres. The last beach in the pro- nposted. A protected area. Access with Playa de los Muertos. In Carboneras on vince of Malaga. Access from clifftop car car. Popular with nudists. the northern limit of Cabo de Gata, Al- park by steep footpath or bus. meria. Take the AL-5106, then continue Playa de la Barrosa. Chiclana de la on foot. No disabled access. No food or fa- Playa de la Caleta. Just east of the Ma- Frontera (Cadiz). Food and facilities. Po- cilities. lagueta beach in the city of Malaga. Food pular location. Extremely clean. and facilities. Easy access via public Playa de los Genoveses. Cabo de Gata, transport. Blue flag beach. Matalascañas. Huelva province, muni- Almeria. In the municipality of Níjar. No cipality of Almonte. Just off the A-483. bar or facilities. Playa de Cabopino / Dunas de Arto- Blue flag beach. Food and facilities. la.Located off the N340-A7. 1, 500m long La Herradura. In the municipality of and 25m wide. Partly nudist beach. Food El Rompido. Cartaya, Huelva province. Almuñécar, Granada. Horseshoe-shaped and facilities. The beach belongs to a small fishing villa- bay. Disabled access. Food and facilities. ge of the same name. Easy access and Playa de Bolonia. Head from Tarifa parking. Food and facilities.

10 11 IN STYLE

Amazing beach clubs

cial media. At weekends, all beach clubs Marbella’s beach clubs are the most are packed with locals and tourists and exciting party spots on the coast some even fly in from abroad just to experience the amazing vibe you can only find at the beach clubs of Marbella. The choice The setting is gorgeous, mountain range that borders the North has grown bigger now, but there is only sunbeds cost a fortune, food African coast. What a pleasure it is, to re- space here to name a few. lax in the warm water or lazily stretch out and drinks do too, but nobody in the sun. Enjoy champagne, mojitos and Legendary Nikki Beach would miss being there other cool drinks, exotic fruit pyramids or Marbella was privileged enough to open the finest delicacies from the trendiest Spain’s first Nikki Beach 15 years ago. The GABRIELA BERNER cuisine in the world while the DJ plays franchise was launched back in 1998 by the latest chillout music. Jack Penrod in Miami, and the name can The most fashionable beach clubs in now be seen in the most exclusive en- A deep blue sky spans over high palm Marbella are similar in structure and de- claves of international tourism. The brand trees set around a spectacular swimming sign, but quite different in performances, is built on the foundations of luxury, life- pool with huge white sunbeds. Only a shows and parties. So make sure, you are style, fashion, music, fine dining and art, few steps away, the Mediterranean Sea up-to-date before the high season starts and all of this is can be found at the Elviria glistens in the sun all the way to the and always look at the latest events on so- club all summer long with spectacular themed festivals and epic parties. The most spectacular are the White Party which this year paid tribute to the great- There’s a party atmosphere at all est fashion designers of all time, and the of the Costa’s fancy beach clubs Red Party when the summer is over. throughout the summer. :: SUR There are many other services such as different kinds of massage, boat transfer for yachts anchored at sea, Bali-style beach beds, individual service and an extensive car park. Anyone attending the White Party this year had to fork out almost 160 euros, although this did include a drink. A day on a Bali bed for three people including a bot- tle of Taittinger brut would cost you 260 euros, a poolside bed with the same number of users and the same champagne is 495 euros and a bed on the sand for six people and two bottles of champagne costs 350 euros.

Bubbling Ocean Club The town of Marbella is also known for its eleven-year-old Ocean Club next to Puerto Banús. Whatever the discerning sun worshipper needs is available at this elegantly designed 9,000-square-metre club surrounded by high, whitewashed walls. The place is dominated by a huge saltwater pool with individual sunbeds and comfortable zones for small groups and offers an exclusive, personalised service. If you happen to pass by chance, you can dress the part thanks to several bou- tiques with beachwear and other outfits, and next to them there are spa facilities inviting you to relaxing massages and beauty treatments. At the Amaï Restau- rant, Swedish chef Andreas Nygren prepares fine Mediterranean and international cuisine. Ocean Club enjoys great popularity mainly due to its extensive and varied Opium Beach Club is a new party hot spot close to the centre of Marbella. :: J-LANZA summer programme featuring live music, famous international DJs, spectacular pagne every summer than any other Beach Club Marbella. light shows and fireworks; and its iconic beach club in the world. The recently inaugurated party hotspot champagne festivals should definitely be is now owned by a former manager of FC reserved well in advance. One of their Su- Opium Beach Club Barcelona and one of his brothers and fea- per VIP beds for twelve people is about For many years, a giant Coca Cola can tures a giant pool, bars and a restaurant. 1,500 euros, but this amount includes next to the main towards Malaga drew at- The new owners run quite a number of three bottles of Dom Perignon. The cham- tention to a beach that was very popular very successful nightclubs and restau- pagne flows more at weekends, because with families with children, having a rants in Barcelona and now intend to im- from Monday to Thursday, Ocean Club is large go-kart track and other facilities. plement this concept in a similar way in popular with young parents and their Now the can has turned white and tur- Marbella where they plan to open up a se- kids. Even so, the club serves more cham- quoise and carries the name of Opium ries of restaurants, pubs and nightclubs.

13 IN STYLE

Take note Luxury. Indulge with this tantalising peek into the world of ultra-luxury homes of Southern Spain; a billionaire lifestyle that can be yours for a cool €68,000 a week. Marbella may have some of the priciest pads in Europe, but you get to holiday like an A-Lister.

ANDREW FORBES Holiday like a billionaire

gates are homes that defy the imagina- The glittering Marbella lifestyle of tion. We’re talking mega-villas for the ultra-luxury summer villa rentals super-rich; from subtle, understated luxury to downright decadence and bling.

Often one hears anecdotes of a golden the beautiful; and the downright rich Art and design era of Marbella; a time in the ‘60s & and extravagant. For perfection in interior design, there’s ‘70s when stars of music, stage and The desire of high net worth visitors Villa Zensei, offered by The Luxury screen would visit Andalucía’s Mediter- for a home-from-home is behind an ap- Villa Collection company. This eight- ranean shores for highlife holidays. parent insatiable appetite for extraordi- bedroom home, in Marbella’s chic Sierra Well, if the tales of the luxury villa nary villa rentals; and Marbella has Blanca neighbourhood, is for guests rental agencies are anything to go by, some of the finest in Europe. Set back who want to be surrounded by an ex- then the Costa del Sol still attracts the from landscaped gardens, secluded be- ceptional private art collection and holi- great and the glamorous; the bold and hind high walls, or safe beyond security day within an über-sophisticated envi- ronment. This architect-designed home includes a striking contemporary sculpture (said to be worth more than a quar- The striking ter of a million euros) that runs up sculpture in Villa through the house. Zensei, Marbella.: Private owners typically offer their THELUXURYVILLACOLLEC villas through agencies that specialise TION.COM in high-end rentals. These specialists take care of the bookings, meet-and- greet and deliver the personalised concierge services that the clients demand. Yet when one says concierge service, this isn’t just getting tickets for a summer concert like Starlite. No; ultra-luxury villa guests expect 24-hour access to services, where every whim and con- ceivable luxury is catered for; from providing private Michelin star chefs to rustle up a sublime poolside lunch or gourmet dinner; delivering supercars; renting luxury yachts; and offering fine jewellery for gala events; to even providing pets for the week! Sandra Cernadas and her husband Philippe de Beaumont, founders of Em- pire Villas, specialise in properties on Marbella’s iconic Golden Mile. In their experience the location of the villa is almost more important than anything else, with frontline beach on the Golden Mile always in demand. They are also seeing wellness as a trend in luxury travel, with a growing demand for a ‘healthy home’ experience. They offer, for example, a 14-room Golden Mile frontline beach estate with its own private spa, gym with professional equipment and a 28-metre heated pool; together with the option for personal trainers and spa therapists. Lindsay Gregory, co-founder and cu- rator at The Luxury Villa Collection, suggests Villa des Artes as a unique beachside villa. It might be one of the coast’s most expensive at around €68,000 per week in peak season, but it has an infinity pool overlooking the sea, views of Morocco and extraordi- nary interior designed spaces filled with fine art. Villa las Artes, a unique beachside villa. :: THE LUXURYVILLACOLLECTION.COM Yet many famous guests prefer the privacy of gated communities in the hills overlooking the coast. El Madroñal is where one finds classic haciendas and contemporary country homes, like Villa Cezanne, surrounded by pine and oak trees. This area is a favourite with A- Listers within the movie as well as the music industry, as some of the properties even have their own recording stu- dios. Madonna, Bjork and Roxette are said to have stayed in El Madroñal and recent visitors include dance music duo LMFAO. Nearby La Zagaleta is synonymous with the most stunning homes in Europe, where every detail is personalised, from monogrammed bed-linen, to helicopters waiting to whisk guests to Seville for a gourmet lunch, or to Gra- nada for a private tour of the Alhambra. After all, it’s not just the marvellous mansions and the sunny skies that are attracting the super-rich guests to An- The view from Villa Cezanne. :: THELUXURYVILLACOLLECTION.COM

15 IN STYLE

dalucía - it’s the culture too. Lindsay Gregory, whose collection of rental properties includes homes once owned by British and Spanish royalty, believes Marbella is setting a new benchmark for luxury villa experiences. “Our clients want to enjoy the highest standards of villa accommodation and lifestyle services like personal trainers, and private chefs. Yet they also want to stay somewhere where they have an incredibly rich culture on their doorstep, which Andalucía most certainly does, probably more than anywhere else in the Mediterranean!” she says. It’s hard to think of anywhere on Villa Vivaldi, hidden away in exclusive La Zagaleta. :: THELUXURYVILLACOLLECTION.COM southern Europe’s rivieras that can offer cultural cities to compare to southern Spain’s Cordoba, Seville or Granada; the beauty of the sierra mountain natural parks; the rural charm of Ronda and the Genal Valley; or the beaches of An- dalucía. Add the fine-dining restaurants, cool beach clubs and summer pop-up night clubs of the coast and one begins to see why Marbella is the luxury villa nexus of the Mediterranean. Safe and discreet Security is something that is a major consideration for the super-rich and the internationally famous. Marbella as a destination has decades of experience providing services tailored to the needs of these types of guests. Lindsay Greg- ory continues, “Our guests are drawn to Marbella as it’s a destination geared up The stylish pool area at Villa Zensei. :: THELUXURYVILLACOLLECTION.COM to welcoming VIP guests. We can provide exclusive experiences that are sup- ported by elite security, and we can also offer private areas at beach club venues and in restaurants where guests can feel safe and protected from the paparazzi.” So, Marbella is most certainly still enjoying a golden era of luxury and VIP travel, attracting the internationally famous; yet you might not spot them, as they’re probably ensconced in their secluded, luxury villas!

MORE INFORMATION

www.theluxuryvillacollection.com

www.empirevillas.es Villa Zensei boasts an exceptional art collection. :: THELUXURYVILLACOLLECTION.COM

16 17 IN STYLE

From private hideaway to luxury resort

Sotogrande still lives up to its founders’ ideal of a community based on friendship Aerial view of Sotogrande. :: SOTOGRANDE S.A.

It remains exclusive, but would be an interesting idea to build Puerto de Sotogrande, which is lined Sotogrande has now become something similar. He commissioned a with restaurants and luxury apartments. search for a suitable location, which The marina started life as a small sail- the biggest privately-owned needed to have unspoiled beaches and ac- ing club and made a name for itself by residential development in cess to an airport, and this area of Cadiz hosting the Spanish Championship in province seemed to fit the bill. After com- the 1980s. Nowadays the Sotogrande Andalucía, with world-class ing to see for himself McMicking, with Yacht Club, with King Juan Carlos (the facilities including a marina the assistance of his two nephews, Jaime present king’s father) as patron, has sev- and Valderrama Golf and Enrique Zobel, eventually decided to eral hundred members and international buy the Finca Paniagua estate in the mu- events are regularly held at Sotogrande. DEBBIE BARTLETT nicipality of San Roque. Another famous facility in Sotogrande This was during the heyday of the ‘jet is Valderrama Golf, reputed to be not only set’, with royalty, the aristocracy and ce- the best golf course in Spain but one of the There is a very peaceful air about Soto- lebrities from all over the world flocking best-known in Europe. It hosted the Ryder grande. Elegant houses sit amid lush to southern Spain, especially Marbella, Cup in 1997, the first time the competition green gardens, where there are glimpses for hedonistic holidays. Sotogrande be- was ever held in continental Europe, and of clear blue swimming pools; the tree- came a favourite alternative for many also has 16 Volvo Masters and two Amex lined avenues are quiet and well-main- politicians and public figures who pre- championships, among others, to its tained; there are gated communities with ferred to keep a low profile, enjoy their name. The Ryder Cup marked a turning security guards at the entrances. Every- privacy and enjoy their leisure time in point for Valderrama. It was the first time thing seems calm, and unhurried. It may congenial company. a young Tiger Woods had ever taken part be over 50 years since the founders, Jo- The McMickings moved to Sotogrande in the championship, and the European seph Rafael McMicking y Ynchausti, and to live, and other residents in the early team, captained by Seve Ballasteros, won. his wife Mercedes Zobel de Ayala y days included George Moore, the presi- Since then, golfers have flocked to play on Roxas, decided they wanted to create an dent of the First National City Bank in the course which has become part of the exclusive residential resort of this type, New York, and some of his friends such as history of Spanish golf. but it still remains very close to their aim Jackie and Aristotle Onassis, opera singer One of Sotogrande’s many charms is of a community based upon friendship. Maria Callas and politician Spiro Agnew. that, despite its undisputed exclusivity, it The Sotogrande of today retains the has a real community atmosphere and of- A private hideaway same ambience, but of course it is much fers something for everybody. New de- The story of Sotogrande began in 1962, bigger: it has become the largest pri- velopments of pretty terraced and semi- when millionaire Joseph McMicking, im- vately-owned residential development in detached houses have also been built in pressed by the luxury Forbes Park estate Andalucía and it now boasts many superb keeping with the surroundings and it has in Manila, in the Philippines, thought it facilities including a world-class marina, become an ideal place for families to live

18 Valderrama golf course :: SUR and holiday. There are shops and restau- cian, Carthaginian, Roman, Visigothic, short drive to the motorway which rants, an international school, a church, Byzantine, Moorish and Christian eras. means Marbella and Puerto Banús can be and facilities such as a pharmacy and Carteia was the most important town in reached in about half an hour. Gibraltar is hairdressing salons. what is now the Campo de Gibraltar area, close at hand, and beautiful inland vil- and became the first Free Latin Colony lages such as Castellar and Jimena de la San Roque outside of present-day Italy in 171 BC. Frontera are also within about half an With all this close at hand, it would be The San Roque Tourist Board organises hour’s drive and the spectacular tempting never to leave the area, but in guided tours in Spanish, English or Italian beaches near Tarifa, the windsurfing fact the municipality of San Roque also for groups of ten or more (smaller groups and kitesurfing capital of Europe on has plenty to offer. The town itself is tra- can join others to make up the numbers). the Costa de la Luz, are about an hour ditional and picturesque, and the annual For those who prefer modern-day at- and a half away. fair in August is well worth a visit. There tractions, the San Roque area also has is also a theatre in the main square. other golf courses, sports and equestrian MORE INFORMATION For history buffs, it is interesting to facilities, a casino, and some interesting visit the archaeological site of Carteia, shopping opportunities. which dates back to the 7th century BC Sotogrande is also well-located in Polo at Sotogrande: See page 54. and includes remains from the Phoeni- terms of communications, being only a

19 URBAN SUMMER

Marbella’s little-known tribute to Salvador Dalí Ten momentous sculptures from the eccentric Catalan artist’s Clot Collection are displayed in the Avenida del Mar The bronze works, which stand more than two metres high and weigh between 200 and 400 kilos, reputedly cost the town hall 250 million pestas TONY BRYANT

Salvador Dalí, best known for the striking and bizarre images of his surrealist art, is perhaps one of the world’s best known artists. He has been cited as a major inspiration by many modern artists, including Jeff Koons, Damien Hirst. Dalí’s work can be found all over the world, although the museum in his home town of Figueres, Catalonia, dis- plays the largest and most diverse collection of his work, the core of which is from the artist’s personal collection. His eccentric manner sometimes drew more attention than his artwork, to the dismay of those who held his work in high esteem, and to the irritation of his critics. Dalí’s expansive artistic repertoire included film, sculpture, and photo- graphy, at times in collaboration with a range of artists in a variety of media. Marbella’s outdoor exhibition Apart from his problematic relationship with Pablo Ruiz Picasso, Dalí doesn’t appear to have any obvious links to Mala- ga, which is why some might find it strange that Marbella pays tribute to his work and his memory with a permanent outdoor exhibition of ten of his bronze sculptures. These bronze figures, from the Clot Salvador Dalí sculptures on display in the Avenida del Mar in Marbella. :: TONY BRYANT

20 21 URBAN SUMMER

Collection (1971 - 81), can be found south of Marbella’s old town, in the Avenida del Mar, between the Parque de la Alameda and the Paseo Marítimo. The Avenida del Mar is paved with gold coloured marble stone and its delightful gardens and water features are beautifully maintained. As part of the town hall’s improvement programme in 1998, former mayor Jesús Gil purchased ten Salva- Dalí had a life-long fascination with Don Quijote de la Mancha. :: TONY BRYANT dor Dalí sculptures that were to form the centrepiece of the city of the works on the warranty certifi- redeveloped park. The sta- cate that was signed by the Descharnes. tues, which stand more than The brothers claimed that the manufac- two metres high and weigh turing process of celebrated artists like between 200 and 400 kilos Dalí is kept under strict control and it each, reputedly cost the town prevents more than eight reproductions hall 250 million pestas being made. They said the figures came (around 1.5m euros). from the original moulds, which were Unless one is an art fanatic cast in Verona, Italy. - or the kind of person who Each sculpture in the Avenida del habitually reads the plaques Mar is numbered and carries Dalí’s sig- that adorn public monu- nature, which appears to confirm their ments - one could easily pass authenticity. by this impressive collection Roman Emperor Trajan on a horse. :: T. B. without realising they are the work of Mythology one of the most eccentric characters in The first statue is of the the history of modern art. Greek mythological Dalí’s name invites images of bizarre hero Perseus, beheading dreams, deformed visions and melting Medusa, the Gorgon clocks. The Marbella collection depicts with living venomous his surrealistic visions of Roman and snakes in place of hair. Greek mythology, his wife Gala, and The second is called strange alien-looking creatures. The Gala Gradiva, Dalí’s sculptures bear all the surrealist nickname for his wife. hallmarks of Dalí’s work, although they Gradiva - ‘the woman were once rumoured to be copies. who walks through walls’ - is the muse of Authenticity surrealism and Dalí The claim came from the Izquierda Unida used the figure in a (IU United Left) coalition, who maintai- The alien-looking Cosmic Elephant. :: T. B. number of his paintings. ned that the works were fal- The next is the Roman se. They suggested that the God Mercury, who, among many things, sculptures had not been led newly deceased souls to the afterlife. created by the hand of Dalí, Trajano a Caballo - the Roman Emperor but instead by a third party Trajan on a horse follows, ahead of Dalí’s who produced them from wife looking through a window. Gala in- sketches made by the artist. fluenced many writers and artists and she Jesús Gil insisted on the was Dalí’s muse, directly inspiring and authenticity of the sculptu- appearing in many of his works. res, offering to pay the costs The centrepiece of the park is a pyra- if a team of experts could mid-shaped fountain and this is the per- prove they were false. fect place to sit and admire these striking The sculptures had been creations. acquired by collectors, Ro- Caballo con Jinete Tropezando is a bert and Nicholas Deschar- rather bizarre-looking piece of a rider and nes. Gil based the authenti- Detail of the Caballo con Jinete Tropezando . :: T. B. his horse stumbling to the ground.

22 Cosmic Elephant One of the most startling looking sculptures stretches across its platform like an alien beast in search of prey. Na- med Elefante Cósmico (Cosmic Elephant), this ferocious-looking animal, with armour-coated skin, webbed feet and savage tusks, is the largest and most impressive piece in the collection. After this, we come to the Mujer Des- nuda Subiendo la Escalera, an image of a naked woman climbing onto a gigantic snail. Next to this is a life-size statue in honour of Dalí’s fascination with Don Quixote. The ingenious nobleman is de- Man on a Dolphin demonstrates Salvador Dalí’s hugely creative talent. :: T. B. picted sitting in a chair looking down on the spectator with his characteristic hat and beard. The last of this diverse collection of bronze masterpieces is Hombre Sobre Delfín (Man on a Dolphin), which demonstrates Dalí’s imaginative and hugely creative skills. The final sculpture in the park, at the top of the steps leading down to the Pa- seo Marítimo, is not the work of Salva- dor Dalí. It was made by of another respected artist, Madrid-born Eduardo So- riano. The monument is a tribute to freedom of expression, hence the inscrip- tion, A la Libertad de Expresión. There is another of the artist’s sculptures that depicts a small girl riding on a swing, al- Gala looking through the window. :: T. B. Perseus beheading Medusa. :: T. B. though it is hard to spot as it is hidden among the foliage at the entrance to the largest and possibly the most distinctive nated to the council in 2004 to celebrate park. of his sculptures, which sits on the Cris- the centenary of Dalí’s birth. It was tamar roundabout at the entrance to created by Dalí in 1956, following his Rhinoceros in Lace Puerto Banús. The massive statue, offi- movie, The Prodigious Adventure of the If this is not enough Dalí for one day, cially known as Rhinoceros Dressed in Lace Maker and the Rhinoceros, a movie then lovers of his work will enjoy the Lace, weighs three tonnes and was do- that has never been officially released.

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Take The Axarquía’s natural charm. With the exceptions of Nerja and Frigiliana, the note villages in the east of Malaga province have largely been left behind the Costa del Sol’s tourism boom over the last five or so decades. However, the area’s rich cultural heritage as well as the Muscatel raisin’s recent promotion to the UN’s list of important agricultural systems is really putting the Axarquía on the map. JENNIE RHODES Escape to the villages of the Axarquía and cool off Find caves, sulphur baths, museums and water fountains

Head inland into the During the hot summer months it is all tucked away by the El Salvador church whitewashed villages of the too easy just to pack up the swimming just to the left of the Balcón is Plaza de costumes and parasols and head to the Cavana. Protected from the sun thanks Axarquía to find some cool beach. Regular dips in the sea and beach to the buildings around it and the many and shady alternatives to the bars serving a constant supply of drinks bars with covered terraces, this is an and food provide everything needed to ideal alternative for lunch, an afternoon area’s busy beaches keep cool. But the stress of finding so- drink or ice cream. JENNIE RHODES mewhere to park and then squeezing Of course it is impossible to write your towel in between everyone else’s - about Nerja without mentioning the when they set the alarm clocks earlier caves - possibly the coolest places in the than you and beat you to the beach - Axarquía! Bookings must be made in ad- may leave you wondering where else to vance to guarantee entrance and the go to keep your cool. covered tourist train takes visitors between Nerja town centre, the caves and Head inland for shade and water neighbouring Maro, so there is no need East of Malaga city there are plenty of to worry about parking. places to cool down that don’t involve Another hugely popular tourist at- the often crowded beaches of Nerja, Tor- traction in Nerja is the Chíllar river rox, Torre del Mar and so on. Many of hike. Often overcrowded at weekends, it the villages have outdoor municipal is best to go during the week. The route pools which are open most days starts off along a dry river bed and even- throughout summer. Vélez-Málaga, tually gets to a stream and then water- Periana and Riogordo are such places falls and the narrow gorges of Los Ca- which offer reduced prices for residents horros, which open up into a natural (people on the town hall Padrón). pool suitable for bathing. Many turn The streets of the old town of Vélez- back at this point but it is possible to Málaga, the Axarquía’s ‘capital’, are nar- continue up through the Tejeda, Almi- row and provide plenty of shade, even jara and Alhama mountains to reach the during the hottest times of day. The source of the river. Parking and visitor town also boasts a number of museums, numbers remain uncontrolled due to a such as the contemporary art centre lack of agreement over management be- (CAC), the Casa Cervantes and MUVEL, tween regional government, the Junta all of which provide welcome shade and de Andalucía, and Nerja town hall. cool courtyards. It is possible to drive up For more caves, head to the Cueva del to the Our Lady of the Remedios chapel, Tesoro in Rincón de la Victoria - the which is surrounded by fountains and only marine cave open to the public in water features. Although there is little Europe. Here, historical artifacts from shade on the esplanade surrounding it, the Neolithic to Islamic periods have the chapel itself is open in the mornings been found as well as a series of impres- and the water features are a welcome sive cave paintings. distraction. Part of the Baños de Vilo in Nerja’s most obvious attractions are Gardens and plant pots Periana. :: SUR the beaches and Balcón de Europa, but Many of the villages of the Axarquía are home to flowered patios, streets lined with flower pots bursting with colour, shady plazas and small gardens. Some of the best examples of these include Algar- robo Pueblo, Benagalbón and of course, Frigiliana. In Algarrobo Pueblo the gardens at the San Sebastián chapel provide greenery, shade and panoramic views of the Axarquía and the houses along narrow, cobbled streets are adorned with flower pots full of vibrant colours and smells. Towards the other end of the area, Benagalbón Pueblo, just north of Rincón de la Victoria, is another great place to explore, even on hot days. The village is not as steep as some of its Fountains and water features at neighbours and the numerous foun- the Our Lady of the Remedios tains providing drinking water as well chapel in Vélez-Málaga. :: J. RHODES as pot plants on every house and street give it a cool feel. The village is popular with artists and there are a number of

25 A pretty square in Benagalbón. :: J. R.

restaurants and bars to sit and have a FURTHER INFORMATION The Axarquía has some wonderful mu- refreshing drink. Alternatively just seums, most of which are located in ol- take recycled plastic bottles and top der buildings, designed to keep out the them up at the water fountains! Vélez-Málaga & Torre del Mar: summer heat. As of 20 July the Museo de www.velezmalaga.es Gálvez in Macharaviaya will be hosting Fountains and museums part of the collection of Salvador Dalí’s Talking of fountains, they are a common Museo Gálvez: www.macharavia- Divine Comedy paintings, known as Cie- feature in the Axarquía villages and ya.es lo or heaven. The exhibition will run un- others which are worthy of note include til October. the Fuente de Los Cinco Caños (foun- Baños de Vilo: www.periana.es Riogordo’s Museo Etnográfico is a fas- tain of the five spouts) in Alcaucín, cinating collection of items particularly which provide drinking water to resi- Sayalonga: www.sayalonga.es related to the grape and olive oil tradi- dents, the ‘frog’ fountain in Sayalonga - tions of the village. Moclinejo has the which happens to be opposite the Axar- Cueva del Tesoro & Benagalbón: Museo de la Bodega Antonio Muñoz quía’s narrowest street - Callejón de la www.rincondelavictoria.es wine museum belonging to the local Di- Alcuza; measuring just 56 centimetres mobe wine company, while Sayalonga at its narrowest point it’s definitely Alcaucín: www.alcaucin.es has the Museo Morisco. Torre del Mar’s shady most of the day. Another foun- Azucarera has a curious but fascinating tain in Sayalonga is Fuente del Cid, whe- Museo de la BodegaAntonio Mu- permanent collection of irons of the re legend has it that El Cid drank from it ñez de Moclinejo: www.dimobe.es world as well as a history of sugar cane when he passed through the village on production in the Axarquía and another his way to Granada. Nerja caves: www.thenerjaca- about the growth of the town. Both are In Periana, locals head to the Baños de ves.com in English and Spanish and the large, Vilo, which are open all year round, but open plan building provides a cultural particularly popular in summer. Situa- Nerja: www.nerja.es escape from the heat. ted about 2.5 kilometres from the villa- While perhaps many will argue that ge, the baths are believed to date back to Algarrobo: www.algarrobo.es the beach is the best place to spend the Roman times. They are sulphur baths long summer months, there are plenty said to have medicinal properties and be of other options to keep cool and out of particularly good for the skin. The avera- the sun in the Axarquía, be they foun- ge temperature of the baths is a pleasant tains, caves, museums, shady squares 21 degrees centigrade. and gardens or natural baths.

26 27 WEISSE DÖRFER

The entrance of the 15th century Molino de Inca conceals a subtropical paradise in the heart of Torremolinos. :: TONY BRYANT An old mill turned plant-lovers’ paradise

park, this stunning botanical garden The botanical garden in Torremolinos offers a haven for those who wish to leave opened in 2003 and it has become one behind the hubbub of the town centre. Natural springs of the town’s most delightful assets On arrival, we are confronted with the fifteenth century mill, Molino de Inca, The Molino de Inca’s rich for fun in the sun. However, the town is from which the garden takes its name. botanical value is also popular with those who prefer a In 1501, following the re-conquest of more relaxing style of break. Torremoli- the province, the city of Malaga was demonstrated with 50 nos boasts numerous green areas and se- granted jurisdictional rights over the na- different species of palm tree, veral well-maintained parks and gar- tural spring waters in the area now dens. However, one of the town’s most known as Torremolinos. In 1700, Joseph tropical plants and flowers, beautiful, although relatively unknown, de Inca Sotomayor acquired a licence to and succulents, shrubs and natural areas is the Molina de Inca Bota- build two mills on an area of land that bushes from four continents nical Garden. was fed by these natural springs. The This delightful paradise is just a 15 mills supplied water to the flour mills, TONY BRYANT minute walk from the town centre, but which until the early 1920s, formed part because of its secluded location, and of one of the town’s most prosperous possibly because there are few signs enterprises. The mills are now the cen- Torremolinos has long been celebrated offering directions, many visitors fail to trepiece of the Molino de Inca botanical for its golden sandy beaches and its re- discover it. garden and the water that flows putation for being the ideal destination Located behind the Aqualand water through them still serves Torremolinos

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Take A forgotten corner. Do take the time to look around the area surrounding the note botanical garden before leaving, because one will discover another little hidden corner of Torremolinos that time seems to have left behind. TONY BRYANT as it has for hundreds of years. The mills have been carefully restored using original materials. The main building has been turned into a museum and provides an informative and interactive experience, as well as an insight into the workings of this emblematic landmark. Displayed photographs that were taken during the renovations show the difficulties workers experienced during the manoeuvring of the huge millstones.

Royal visit Leaving the mill, we enter the gardens that have been created around the spring that emanates from the surrounding mountains. The water is collected in the reservoir named Albercón del Rey, which commemorates the visit by Al- fonso XIII and Queen Victoria Eugenia in 1926. A small plaque reveals that the king drunk from the reservoir. Visitors can also enter the quarters where the royal coupled stayed during their visit and among the many things on display is a marble bath that was made especially for the queen. One of the enclave’s most charming attractions is the sound of running water, The Japanese water garden is designed for the which flows through the garden and into enjoyment of the senses and suggests an three different ponds full of aquatic ancient and faraway natural landscape:: T. BRYANT plants and fish. The main pond is guarded by four Italian marble classical statues of the four seasons. The beautifully carved sculptures are positioned to symbolise the circular movement of time and the celebration of various seasonal rites. Other monuments of interest are the two Alhambra style lions, also carved in Italian marble; and the Ninfa del Agua, by Hamilton Reed Armstrong, a celebrated American artist who has several other works displayed in Torremolinos. There is an abundance of wildlife and exotic birds. Several aviaries house a collection of falcons, owls and macaws, while peacocks, hens and ducks roam freely throughout the grounds.

Botanical value The garden’s obvious botanical value is found in more than 50 different species of palm trees, as well as 60 other varieties, including pine, eucalyptus, walnut, oak and conifer. The oldest tree in the garden is a gigantic, 1000-year-old olive tree. The gardens are well maintained. :: T. B.

30 31 NATURE

The Albercón del Rey commemorates the royal visit in 1926. :: TONY BRYANT

The gardens are beautifully laid out and separated into sections, each with its own distinctive character. Tropical plants and flowers, succulents, shrubs and bushes from four continents blend with breathtaking ease. Each area is accessed by rustic bridges and wooden paths - some of which are made with the sleepers from the old Malaga to Torremolinos train line. There are several lookout points, like the Mirador del Rey, which offers panoramic views of the 40,000 square metres of landscaped gardens.

Japanese water garden A key feature is a 50-metre natural maze which boasts a 100-foot pine tree as cen- The natural maze. :: SUR Ponds are fed by natural springs. :: T. B. tre piece, but the most impressive, and certainly the most peaceful area is the INFORMATION Japanese water garden. Situated behind the Albercón del Rey, this oriental paradise is designed for the Hours: The Molinode Inca garden is enjoyment of the senses and suggests an open May to September, Tuesday- ancient and faraway natural landscape. Sunday from 11.30am until 2pm, and The Japanese have always had a spiri- from 6pm to 9pm. During the low tual connection with their land and the season hours are 10.30am until 2pm, spirits that are one with nature and you and 4pm until 7pm. understand why when visiting this en- chanting corner of the grounds. The gar- Tickets: 3 euros. Children under 12 den is designed in traditional style, with and pensioners have free admission. trickling water features, rockeries, paper lanterns and an explosion of exotic Where: Nueva Ronda de Circunva- plants and colourful trees. The centre- lación Oeste, Torremolinos. (Behind piece is a classic Japanese garden house, the waterpark) which looks out onto an attractive wa- terlily-covered pond. Tours: Guided tours are available, The Molino de Inca Botanical Garden but must be booked in advance on offers a pleasant experience and a chan- 952379400. ce to relax before heading back to the fun and sun on the beach. One of the many waterfalls. :: T. B.

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Take Reusable bags. Although market sellers will often give out plastic note bags, these tend to be limited in supply. If you’re planning a large haul or are trying to reduce your use of disposable plastic, bring your own bag to store your items. If you don’t yet own a reusable shopping bag, the market is the perfect place to find one! MADDY HAY

plement to the strip of shops and restaurants. Visitors can expect to discover a unique selection of jewellery, accesso- ries and artwork as they wander along towards the beach. Furthermore, if the breeze of the coastline isn’t sufficient, the port is supplied with shades and dis- pensers that will regularly spray out a cooling mist of water.

Fuengirola Market-savvy readers with a knack for bartering should head to Fuengirola for the Sunday flea market. The fairground is the ideal location for this market, where, as the locals would say, “hay de todo”; this flea market has a little bit of everything. Bargains are aplenty among the numerous market stalls which specialise in second-hand and vintage clothing, ac- cessories, toys, furniture and antique ar- Artisan markets on Muelle Uno. :: M. H. tefacts. It’s like a weekly car boot sale, but with fewer cars and added sunshine (though the buildings that line the outside perimeter of the market also offer some much-needed shade). Visitors can skip out their weekly su- Let the treasure permarket shop as the market also boasts a wealth of fruit, vegetables, local cuisine, plants and flowers. It is open from 9am until 2pm every Sunday. hunt begin... Nerja Those in search of a quieter or more low-key experience would do well to explore one of the Costa del Sol’s many There are plenty of opportunities to mid-week markets. browse and rummage at the Costa’s Every Tuesday between 8am and 2pm, Calle Mirto in Nerja is transfor- second-hand and craft markets med into a mercadillo that is available for residents and holidaymakers to enjoy while taking a break from the beau- No matter whether you’re a There’s no better way to immerse your- tiful local beaches. Here, visitors will self into Andalusian culture than to ex- discover a mixture of second-hand clo- bargain hunter, a craft plore the local street markets. Mercadi- thing, cosmetics and novelty items. Re- enthusiast, a vintage clothing llos, as they are often known, are nume- freshments are also available at Genesis rous and varied in this area and can cafeteria, to help fuel the hunt for bar- fanatic or a history buff, there occur weekly, daily or as part of a one- gains. are countless discoveries to off cultural event. be made in the province of The weekend markets are perhaps Benalmádena best-known. Within the city of Malaga The ‘rastro’ second-hand market in Be- Malaga this summer itself, tourists and residents would be nalmádena is open every Wednesday. It MADDY HAY hard-pressed to miss the Muelle Uno’s is conveniently situated near the beauti- artisan markets, which take place every ful Paloma park and the Selwo Marina other Sunday along the beautiful port centre, so visitors could easily incorpo- promenade. The stalls are a great com- rate a visit to the market into an action-

34 Lovers of vintage clothing have lots to discover. :: M. H. packed day out. This is a great place to gust. Alongside traditional food, tools, search for hidden gems among the jum- metalwork and leather-making, previous ble of antiques and second-hand clo- years have seen spectacular fire shows, thing. falconry and bouncy castles. As an extra note: readers should keep Puerto Banús their ears to the ground for market The Muestra Internacional de Artesanía events at La Térmica cultural centre in market in Puerto Banús, Marbella, the city of Malaga. Their sporadic Red offers a slightly more relaxed, glamo- Friday markets feature a veritable rous affair, away from the bustle of the bounty of second-hand books and re- flea markets. Situated in Plaza Antonio cords. What better way to spend a warm Banderas, this chic, open-air market ta- Friday evening than digging for gold kes place every day during the summer among mountains of classic fiction and months. It is comprised of 25 white, music? These events do not run on a re- uniform stalls that sell a carefully selec- gular schedule, so it’s best to pay atten- ted mixture of artisan fragrances, hand- tion to social media. made jewellery, glass artefacts, cera- The mercadillos of Malaga will not dis- mics, vintage clothing and other ac- appoint any of their visitors this summer, cessories. It is open from 11am to 12am be they life-long hunters of priceless an- Monday to Thursday and until 1am Fri- tiques or simply sunbathers looking for a day to Sunday. The busy Fuengirola street market. :: SUR day off. There’s treasure here for everyone. Festivals Over the summer months, Andalucía is The summer craft market host to a number of one-off, themed and in Puerto Banús. :: SUR traditional markets. Many towns will acknowledge this area’s Moorish roots by setting up traditional bazaars, where visitors can sample Arab-style food and peru- se the stalls for fabrics, jewellery, accesso- ries and more. For an added sense of occa- sion and authenticity, many choose to at- tend in traditional (or not-so-traditional) costume. The medieval markets will return to the Manilva area this summer. The first will take place in the Castillo between 20 and 29 July and the second in the district of Sabinillas between 31 July and 5 Au- URBAN SUMMER

Ancient and modern

of the oldest houses in the area. Alhaurín de la Torre is much more than The 17th century neoclassical Igle- a clean and tidy commuter town sia de San Sebastián - the only church in Alhaurín - is named after the town’s patron saint. Another important landmark is the The historic centre of Alhaurín glimpse of its Moorish past. 19th century Casa Refugio de Torrijos, de la Torre conserves its Following the re-conquest in 1485, the house where General José María the name was changed to Alhaurín de de Torrijos was held prisoner after an Arabic past with beautiful la Torre. The population gradually in- unsuccessful uprising against the ab- hidden corners and Moorish creased due to the influx of Christian solutist rule in 1831. settlers at the end of the 16th century. Other examples of Alhaurín’s illus- architecture Today, it is a peaceful residential trious past can be found in the Cortijo TONY BRYANT town with a largelarge internatio-internatio- de Mollina,Mollina, an oldold Moorish nal population.n. farmhousefarmhouse andan tower, The first thinghing that aandnd the 18th18 century Founded by the Phoenicians around strikes the visitorsitor isis Arcos de Zapata 1,000BC, the restful town of Alhaurín the cleanlinessss ofof aqueduct.aqued de la Torre is situated among citrus, the streets andnd HoHowever, one avocado and olive groves at the foot of squares. The ooldld of thet town’s the Mijas mountains. town conservesves mmosto popular The town was known as Lauro Vetus beautiful aattractionstt is during the Roman era and while under hidden cornersrs theth Bienque- Muslim rule it grew into a flourishing and buildings,s, ridrido Oriental agrarian town called Albarracín. Some like the Casa gagardens. parts of the old quarter still offer a del Conde, onene KKnownn as the The Plaza del Conde. :: SUR

Japanese park, this wonderful 12,000 m2 natural area has an unmistakable oriental atmosphere created by water features and rockeries, bamboo, bonsai and Japanese cedars. Finca El Portón also boasts a diverse collection of flora within its gardens. It has become a popular venue for summer concerts, in particular, the El Portón Jazz Festival and the Torre del Cante Flamenco Festival. Finca el Portón is the venue for jazz and flamenco festivals. :: SUR

37 HOME GROWN

Holidays out in the garden Guaranteed sunshine during the summer months allows many varieties of tropical and sub tropical plants to thrive in Andalucía

DENISE BUSH dening here very worthwhile. If you’ve ever visited the glasshouses at Kew, Andalucía and, more specifically, the Wisley, Birmingham or Camarthen- Costa del Sol are home to some of the hot- shire, you will have seen the multitude test and driest weather in Spain. The guar- of beautiful plants that can be grown in anteed heat in the summer is one of the dry, Mediterranean climates. Fragrant reasons the Costa is so attractive to tour- gingers and Frangipani, exotic vines A solution for dry gardens. :: TIM WILLIAMS ists who come to enjoy the warm sun- with drooping clusters of heavily per- shine. However, the long, hot days and fumed blooms… and of course the palms warm nights with no sign of any rainfall and succulents that most people will as- for months, is not greeted quite so joy- sociate with hot, arid regions. ously by gardeners. And it’s not just on Palms are plentiful along the Costa the coast; the dessicating terral winds in- and give height, shade and a Mediterra- land can make keeping plants alive a nean feel to gardens but, in recent years, struggle. the date palm (and sometimes the Once you know what you are going to Washingtonia too) has been under at- be faced with there is in fact many va- tack by the notorious palm weevil. This rieties of tropical or semi-tropical plants large reddish beetle, with a very distinc- that thrive in this climate and make gar- tive long ‘snout’ finds a weakness in the trunk and lays its eggs. When the larvae hatch, they start to munch their way into the heart of the palm, slowly killing it. There are sprays to deter the beetles from laying the eggs but spraying a fully grown palm every 45 days or so is not really a viable option. The council in Malaga regularly inject the palms in the city with a poison which kills any of the fat little grubs before they can do sig- nificant damage. Creating a corner of a South American jungle in your back yard isn’t impossible but it does depend on a plentiful water supply. Some areas of southern Spain experience water shortages and cuts when there has been insufficient rain- Exotic vine. :: K. CASTLE Banana palm. :: ANN PENNINGTON fall during the winter, and not all wells

38 A tropical paradise in Coín.:: TIM AND PAM WILLIAMS can supply water all summer. Water butts or underground storage tanks will help and act as a backup if needed, but water isn’t the only problem facing gardeners in Andalucía. Many parts of the province have extremely thin or poor quality top soil. This is fine for olives - they don’t seem to mind at all - but it’s fatal for herba- ceous plants and shrubs which need to send down deep roots to find moisture. Improving the condition of the topsoil by adding lots of organic material will help tremendously. The only answer is to find a balance. Only grow the tropical plants that you know you will have enough water for and combine your planting scheme with Orgiva Tea Gardens, Las Chimeneas. :: KAY BYRNE more drought-resistant vegetation. Choose plants with thick velvety or some of the more delicate plants, espe- will help to conserve moisture in and fleshy leaves which are well equipped to cially during the hot afternoons. Mulch around the plants, helping them to re- withstand the sun and provide shade for everything; the layer of organic material tain more water for longer.

39 URBAN SUMMER

Gibraltar: nothing short of awesome The Rock of Gibraltar is a great place to visit at any time of year, but in the summer it really comes into its own

There can surely be nowhere owner you either walk or drive across the prisingly - the main street, is historic and else on earth which offers so border to this British Overseas Territory charming with modern shops and facili- from La Línea de la Concepción in neigh- ties. By strolling along here you can take much variety, excitement, bouring Spain, or fly in to Gibraltar air- in two cathedrals, the King’s Chapel, the adventure, history, nature port, marvelling at the view of the fa- Convent (home to the Governor of Gi- mous Rock as your aircraft approaches. Ei- braltar), ‘No. 6’, which is Gibraltar’s and entertainment in such a ther way, you will then have to cross the equivalent of No. 10 Downing Street and, small and beautiful space. airport runway to reach the town, by car, at the end of Main Street, the Trafalgar Gibraltar is a true marvel, in bus or on foot, which is a unique and Cemetery, a key landmark in local history somewhat surreal experience in itself. which commemorates the Battle of Tra- many different ways falgar in 1805. If you carry on walking DEBBIE BARTLETT Fascinating, from top to bottom you will come to the lovely Alameda bo- The great thing about Gibraltar is that it is tanical gardens and the wildlife park, and all fascinating. However, that leads to a en route you will see the cable car base They say nice things come in small parcels question for first-time visitors: where to station, in the car park. and that certainly applies to Gibraltar, go first?The city centre is a good starting One of the most rewarding and excit- which may be only 6.7 square kilometres point, especially the iconic Casemates ing experiences on Gibraltar is a trip to in size but is packed full of interesting Square, where many events take place the Upper Rock Nature Reserve, espe- places to visit and things to do, making it throughout the year. Lined with cafés and cially if you take the six-minute cable car an ideal place to spend a day, a weekend or restaurants, it is an ideal place to sit and trip. At the top the three terraces have a longer break. In fact, the fun begins as plan the day ahead. spectacular views of two continents, two soon as you arrive: unless you are a boat Main Street, which is - rather unsur- bodies of water and three countries. The cable car runs every ten to fifteen minutes from 9.30am to 7.15pm, and you can buy a ticket for the Nature Reserve attrac- Many events take place tions from the base station or the souve- in the iconic nir shop at the top station. That gives you Casemates Square. entry to the Great Siege Tunnels, the City :: SUR Under Siege exhibition, the Moorish castle and the 100 Ton Gun. The Nature Reserve ticket also includes entry to the Apes Den. Everybody has heard of Gibraltar’s famous barbary macaques, and they are just as cute and furry as you expect. They are also extremely mischievous - hang on to hats, cameras, bags and any food you may have with you. These guys move fast! Despite them appearing to be bundles of fun and although they are used to people being around, it is important to remem- 41 The Skywalk in Gibraltar was inaugurated by Mark Hamill this year. :: SUR ber that these apes are still wild animals. Windsor Suspension Bridge at Royal add. The cave is fully illuminated, but the Treat them with respect, don’t crowd Anglian Way will undoubtedly provide tour takes approximately three hours and them, and be aware of the warning sign: it. This is another new attraction in Gi- there is some scrambling and minor if they feel intimidated they will raise braltar and is also included in the Na- climbing with ropes involved. their eyebrows and purse their lips into a ture Reserve ticket. It is only for the ad- For those who love boats and the sea, round shape. It means they need a bit of venturous, stretching 71 metres across a Gibraltar in the summer will be a real space, so just step away so they realise 50-metre-deep gorge. Those who dare treat. The modern marinas are atmos- you’re not a threat, and you’ll all get on to keep their eyes open will be stunned pheric at any time of day (and check out harmoniously. by the views of the Strait, the bay and the amazing Sunborn floating hotel in One of Gibraltar’s newest attractions, the city of Gibraltar. Ocean Village, while you’re there) and and probably the most thrilling, is the If you don’t like heights and you prefer there are environmentally responsible Skywalk, which was inaugurated earlier to go downwards instead, you will love boat trips to spot dolphins and whales. this year by Star Wars actor Mark Hamill. Lower St Michael’s Cave, an incredibly Trips are also occasionally organised to Entry to the Skywalk is also included in beautiful natural cave with a lake. This give a close-up view from the sea of the the Nature Reserve ticket. What is it? must be booked well in advance, and is Gorham’s Cave complex, the last known Well, imagine a walkway 340 metres di- available for groups of between five and home of the Neanderthals, which is now rectly above sea level, which is higher ten people. Quite fit people, we must a Unesco World Heritage Site. than the tallest point of the Shard build- These are just a few of Gibraltar’s ing in London, with the floor and balus- many attractions, so if you’re there for a trade made of four layers of laminated few days and want to relax on a beach for glass. Yep, glass. So it looks as if there a while you can do that too. This is Gi- is nothing beneath your feet ex- braltar, so even the beaches are un- cept the drop. usual: Camp Bay, in the South The Skywalk is 2.5 metres District, was originally a quarry wide and projects to a maxi- and is now a lido, while Little mum of 6.7 metres. De- Bay has a small rocky beach spite its apparent fragility under the cliffs. On the it is in fact extremely East side, Catalan Bay is a strong. It could bear the pretty Genoan-style vil- weight of five ele- lage with a lovely cove, phants, or 340 people, or you can choose the although no more more secludedSandy than 50 people are al- Bay or Eastern Beach, lowed onto it at the close to the airstrip, same time. Not to be which is the largest in missed for those who Gibraltar. want the sensational Whether you want experience of floating to go up, down or on air, while looking at around the Rock, hang truly spectacular views. out in the city centre or If that isn’t enough for enjoy the view from the you and you want even sea, Gibraltaltar is nothing more of an adrenalin rush, the short of awesome.

42 The Gibraltar flag flies over the marina. :: SUR 43 HEALTH Exercise in the heat

Sun protection is essential at this time of year. :: SUR

drinks, which provide carbohydrates Hot weather doesn’t mean you have to and minerals; these help to maintain stop running, just be sure to follow sufficient glucose in the blood, replace some common sense advice electrolytes and keep us hydrated. Eat sensibly It is important to eat properly. Eat a light, As temperatures rise, of Sports Medicine, that is the worst time balanced meal two hours before any to take exercise because of the heat. Al- physical activity. Don’t forget to include minor inconveniences ways try to exercise or take part in sport fruit and carbohydrates. Bear in mind that can become major early in the morning or in the evening. diets that are unbalanced in terms of carbohydrates with the aim of losing weight, problems if we don’t take Drink more and high-protein diets which aim to in- Drink water before, during and after crease muscle mass can be very damaging. enough notice of them exercising. It is essential to stay hy- PILAR MANZANARES drated at all times, to prevent injury Protect yourself from the sun and heatstroke. If our muscles don’t Sun protection is essential. Although have enough water we are more likely the sun’s rays are weaker early and later Summer, for various reasons, is the to suffer injury. We can also use sports in the day, we still need to protect our- time of year when we tend to do more sport than any other. We have more free time, we want a better-looking body and, above all, we have more choice of where to exercise and that makes it seem more attractive. How- ever, it should always be remembered that what may appear to be minor inconveniences can develop into major problems if we don’t take enough notice of them. That’s why anyone think- ing of increasing their physical activity this summer would do well to follow the advice given to us by Dr Antonio Manzano, a traumatologist at IQTRA Advanced Medicine.

Look at the clock Never practise sport between midday and 5pm. According to the Spanish Federation Being well hydrated can stave off injury and heatstroke. :: SUR

44 selves from them with a cream which of sport suits our skin type. Look for those with for your high protection factors and which are body. It resistant to perspiration. all de- pends on Get a check-up this ‘ma- If you’re new to exercise, make sure chine’: you your body is up to it. This means con- want to enjoy sulting a doctor who specialises in the exercise sports medicine, even if it is only to without damaging check your cardio-respiratory system, or injuring yourself. the elasticity of your muscles and the Bear in mind that the condition of your joints. knees and hips are weight- bearing joints which will suffer Natural extras more if we do impact sports (run- Taking natural supplements can help to ning, football, padel, tennis, walking). protect your cartilages and tendons. Cycling or many of the water sports These include hyaluronic acid, collagen, (surfing, kite-surfing, diving, waterski- glucosaline and chondroitin sulfate ing etc) are easier for them. stop exercising and consult your trau- (shark cartilage). matologist. It doesn’t mean they will Attention to pain stop you doing something you enjoy, Choose your sport well Pain is a warning sign. If it happens, it but they will be able to prevent or It is important to take up the right sort means that something isn’t right, so: treat injuries in time.

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Take swimming costumes to bathe in one of the natural pools or even have a go at canyoning in one of Granada’s most beautiful, untouched spots JENNIE RHODES

For a summer alternative discover what’s on the other side of the Te- jeda, Almijara and Alhama mountain range, which is shared between Malaga and Granada provinces. An eight-kilometre drive north of Al- muñécar leads through the small villages of Jete and Otívar, home to the access points to the Río Verde, a jungle-like paradise with options for hiking and even swimming in the many natural pools and waterfalls along this stretch of river.

20 kilometres of river The Río Verde is Granada province’s equivalent to Nerja’s Río Chíllar and provides an ideal way to cool down away from the crowds on the beaches and indeed the often crowded Nerja The natural pool is a popular swimming spot along the Río Verde. :: J. RHODES river walk. Locals from the nearby villages head to this cool, green oasis on hot summer days. It’s probably as close to a tropical forest as there is in this area and a good option for dog owners A green oasis too, as there is generally no problem with letting them swim in the pools. The source of the Río Verde can be found on the Granada side of the Te- jeda, Almijara and Alhama mountain north of the range and flows 20 kilometres south passing the villages of Otívar and Jete before reaching the Mediterranean in Almuñécar. Costa Tropical Set deep in a valley to the west of both villages, the road down to the Río Verde is narrow and windy, but manageable in an ordinary car. How- A walk along the Río Verde in ever, it’s perhaps not for the faint- Granada province provides a cool and hearted. tranquil alternative to the area’s Canyoning and hiking Alternatively, it is possible to walk busy beaches and chiringuitos from Jete, following the river, which generally has little water during the

46 Lush green foliage lines the banks of the Río Verde, even during the hot summer months. :: J. R. hot summer months. Take plenty of cal fauna includes mountain goats sculpture garden, which is open to water to drink as there are no shops and eagles. visitors on the first and third Sunday or bars outside the villages. of the month and it will remain open There are a number of adventure Getting there on those days throughout summer. companies which offer activities To get to the river if you’re not in an Visitors will be offered a glass of such as canyoning and hiking and organised group take the A4050 from wine and tapas and there is live mu- they suggest that April to October are Almuñécar and either stop in the vil- sic on most Sundays. While the visit the best months to do them. lage of Jete and walk from there, or is free, Kitty and her partner Nick do A popular start point for many of continue past the village and take a ask for a donation towards the up- the activities is the Junta de Dos Ríos track off to the left approximately keep of the garden. Visitors may just (joining of two rivers) where the bar- one kilometre after leaving the vil- turn up on the Sundays but tours on ranco de la Topera and barranco de la lage. Otívar is the next village along other days can be made by appoint- Chopera meet and become the source from where guided activities set off. ment via the website. of the Río Verde. As the river winds Alternatively, carry on through its way down there are hanging Otívar and three kilometers on there bridges to cross and pools and water- is a sign showing a small parking area FURTHER INFORMATION falls to swim in. which is generally controlled. There The river gets its name from the is a five-euro charge to leave cars and www.otivar.es or search Google for colour of the water and the lush, instructions are available on how to outdoor adventure companies that of- tropical vegetation that grows along get to the Junta de Dos Ríos. fer canyoning and hiking etc. its banks. The surrounding area is Overlooking the Río Verde and home to mango, avocado and other situated between Jete and Ítrabo, is www.kittyharri.com sub-tropical fruit plantations and lo- the much celebrated Kitty Harri’s

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The magic of El Torcal as the sun goes down The rock formations that form part of the new world heritage site can be explored at sunset and after dark in the summer

RACHEL HAYNES / SUR the Peña de los Enamorados as the third point. The orientation of two of the dolmens is totally unique in that they were The rock formations within the prov- built to face these landmarks on Earth ince of Malaga have always captivated rather than the stars. the area’s human inhabitants, either Today the rocks have been labelled ac- through superstition, curiosity or cording to the shapes. Walking routes merely a loving admiration of nature. take visitors past El Camello (the The strength of erosion has, over mil- camel), La Cara de Perro (the dog’s face), lennia, moulded the limestone rocks Las Siete Mesas (the seven tables), here into spectacular results which re- among others. semble animals, people or objects. The most striking structure is the Undoubtedly, the best-known forma- Tornillo (the screw), which has been of- tions of this type can be found in El Tor- ficially declared a Natural Monument of cal de Antequera, which is protected as a Andalucía. Besides this recognition, this Paraje Natural and since 2016 forms part unusually shaped rock has become an of the Unesco World Heritage Site that emblem for El Torcal. encompasses the dolmens and the rock But if this seems a magical place by known as the Peña de los Enamorados. day - part of the American fantasy series It’s hard to imagine that this magical Emerald City was filmed here - by night natural space, which covers almost 12 El Torcal gains extra beauty. square kilometres at more than a thou- The heat of the day in this part of in- sand metres above sea level, was once Under the moonlight. :: EL TORCAL ALTO land Andalucía during the summer under the sea, the Thetys Ocean, which months and the added at- covered much of Europe and the Middle traction of the rock forma- East. tions at sunset or under the The curious shapes that we see today moonlight have led the visi- and have been formed over millions of tor centre to organise a full years started with sediment made up programme of evening ac- of shells of marine organisms that built tivities. up in layers. The effects of wind, ice and The Ruta de los 5 Sentidos rain on the resulting soft limestone did al Atardecer (Route of the 5 the rest, producing this outdoor mu- Senses at Dusk) takes visi- seum of sculptures. tors on a guided four-kilo- Today we know the science, but over metre walk in the evening as millennia residents in the area have in- the sun goes down. The visit, terpreted the mystery of El Torcal in dif- which is organised most Fri- ferent ways. The inclusion of the rocks days during the summer, en- in the World Heritage site is the result courages walkers to appreci- of El Torcal’s connection with the mega- ate the surroundings using lithic dolmens, forming a triangle with Rock formations. :: EL TORCAL ALTO all their senses. It is on Saturday evenings in July and August when visitors really get the chance to use their tastebuds, when the Noches que Despiertan tus Sentidos (Nights that Awaken your Senses) visits follow the sunset hike with dinner. Local cuisine is served under the stars on the terrace of the visitor centre’s restaurant. The third option is El Torcal Bajo la Luna Llena (El Torcal Under the Full Moon) when the entire route is covered under the moonlight, starting at 9pm. The halo of light provided by the full moon adds mystery to the landscape. El Torcal at sunset gains extra mystery. :: EL TORCAL ALTO

EVENING ROUTES Noches que Despiertan tus Senti- 25, 26 August. From 9pm (3 hours). 12 dos. Saturdays in July, August and 1 euros, under 12s 10 euros. 5 Sentidos al Atardecer. Fridays in September. 6pm to 10.30pm. 4 kilome- July (except 27) and August. 6.30pm to tres. Includes dinner. 34.99 euros per Reservations. Consult availability 9.30pm. 4 kilometres. 12 euros, under person. 27.99 euros under 14s. and book at 12s 10 euros (not suitable for under www.torcaldeantequera.com or 10s). Moonlight walk. 27, 28, 29 July. 24, email: [email protected] ACTION Try something new, make a splash

Tarifa has long been the surfing capital of the Mediterranean, but now kitesurfing taken hold. :: SUR

Take to the water to stay and look cool this summer

Even if you’re a complete Estepona, Fuengirola, Benalmádena and ny, whether for a short Sunday outing Vélez are also proud of their marinas or for longer trips. novice, now could be the and in Malaga you will find the Puerto Modern sailing clubs and associated perfect time to take up Deportivo el Candado and the Real Club schools are not just offering traditional watersports, whether Mediterráneo de Málaga. sports like rowing and sailing but many other disciplines like stand-up paddle, traditional and more modern Learning to sail kayaking, surfing, windsurfing, water- DUNJA SCHMUTZ / SUR IN ENGLISH If you are keen to learn sailing this sum- skiing and many more. As in Benalmá- mer, there are a number of locations at dena, the courses are given either in which you can learn the basics. Club Spanish or English. Náutico Benalmádena offers a begin- With favourable weather conditions al- ner’s course over five days with three A sport growing in popularity most guaranteed during the summer hours of lessons a day. The course inclu- One watersport that has undoubtedly months, watersports continue to attract des basic manoeuvres like tacking and evolved in recent years along the Anda- novices and enthusiasts from near and jibbing, heaving to and berthing as well lusian coastline is kitesurfing, with an afar to the region. as learning about knots, navigation and increase in kitesurfing schools and In- No matter the level, there are facili- avoidance rules, meteorology and more. ternational Kiteboarding Organization ties to cater for everyone across the After a two-week course, you should (IKO) instructors on the Costa del Sol, more than 160 kilometres of coastline have achieved the knowledge needed to especially in the last five years. between Sotogrande and Nerja in which sail independently. Tarifa on the Atlantic coast, however, there are eleven marinas with over There are many charter companies on has been Europe’s ‘El Dorado’ for surfers 4,000 berths and several clubs and the coast which offer sailing courses for for decades now. At the beginning it was schools with a comprehensive range of all needs, from introductory courses to just for windsurfers, but in the last 20 courses. sailing certificate courses, and even pre- years kitesurfing has become popular In Marbella there are four marinas: pare for the examinations for the yacht too. Puerto Banús, Puerto Deportivo de Mar- captain’s license. Anyone who has acqui- However, the Costa del Sol offers se- bella, Cabopino and Puerto Deportivo red the appropriate certificates can also veral kitesurf spots that can compete Marina. The coastal towns of Manilva, rent sailboats from the charter compa- with the conditions in Tarifa. You can

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find them in Estepona, Marbella (San Pedro, Los Monteros and Cabopino), La Cala de Mijas, and Guadalmar in Malaga. The Secret Spot Kite & SUP Center, a kitesurf school with shop in Torremo- linos, has offered high quality courses since 2004, first in Los Álamos and The inland reservoirs are popular spots for taking a dip. :: SUR now on the beach of Guadalmar. Al- though Guadalmar is not an officially designated kitesurfing beach, kitesurfers are tolerated here after the ban in Los Álamos. With ideal wind conditions, future kiters will recall their childhood and remember how to fly a kite. As soon as they are able to correc- tly handle the kite on land, they are allowed to practise from the waterside and learn for three days to prove themselves in the waves. A good level can be achieved in one week on avera- ge. Courses are offered nearly all year round in individual classes or groups, and as required, in English. Kitesurfing lessons for children as young as eight who are accompanied by an adult take place at the Freedom Kite School in Estepona (as well as in Tarifa), just one of the companies which has welcomed kitesurfers and windsurfers alike for a few decades Paddle surfing, gentler than with a kite. :: SUR now, depending on the height of the waves and Torremolinos have both been accredi- wind conditions. ted with the PADI 5 Star Career Deve- CoolHot Kite School lopment and IDC Dive Centre award also offers lessons in both from the Professional Association of Tarifa and in El Candado Diving Instructors (PADI) and are the in Malaga for people of only British-run centre of this kind in all abilities, with private, Spain. semi-private and indivi- Elsewhere, you can learn scuba di- dual classes usually las- ving at another five-star dive centre, ting between two to four the Abysub diving school in Fuengiro- hours for one or two la. Not only does it offer various dive days. trips to Marbella and the Strait of Gi- braltar, but a wide range of PADI cour- Under the water ses, including a first aid programme, For those who prefer to open water diving courses and training spend more time under to become a rescue diver are available. the water and simulta- neously explore some of Water skiing, with a difference the magnificent marine Cable skiing is a form of water skiing, life in the Costa’s waters, with the difference from the traditio- there are more than 100 nal sport being an electric cable that different dive sites to pulls the skier’s rope as opposed to a which companies will motorboat. The watersports centre on lead groups. Las Medranas reservoir in Marbella is Simply Diving’s two the only centre to offer cable ski centres in Marbella and Diving, learning something new underwater. :: SUR lessons to those keen to try the sport

52 over the age of ten on the Costa del Sol. The centre gives lessons between 11am and 3pm and 4pm to 8.30pm, although those timings are subject to change depending on sunlight.

Taking it easier Further east down the coast where the waters are much calmer, sports such as paddle surfing have become very popular in towns such as Nerja which come to life in the summer months thanks to the white beaches and mul- ticultural surroundings. A gentle, more relaxed sport compared to kitesurfing or windsurfing, the beauty of paddle- boarding is that you can do it at any age. A mix between surfing and kayaking, paddle surfers have grown in numbers on the Costa del Sol over the past few years, and you won’t find it difficult to get lessons on your nearest beach. Paddle surfing, as well as kayaking, can also be practised on the province’s various inland reservoirs as well as the sea. The most famous are in El Chorro, known as ‘Malaga’s Lake District’; it has three, large, azure lakes, made by the damming of the Guadalhorce river, which are ideal for swimming. The shoreline offers plenty of places to pic- nic and sunbathe even during the height of the season and pedalos and canoes are available for hire. El Chorro is situated between Ante- The latest thrill - fly boarding quera and Álora and is also famous for in Marbella. :: SUR the recently re-opened Caminito del Rey walkway.

A participant in a kitesurf World Tour Day in Tarifa. :: SUR

53 ACTION

A festival of sport that draws the crowds An evening at the polo is an essential part of the summer The International Polo Tournament, at Sotogrande daily from late July to the end of August, is a must in the Costa del Sol’s social calendar and is open to everyone to enjoy NEIL HESKETH

The summer on the coast of southern Spain isn’t just about sea and sand. It’s also an opportunity for some top sport- ing action and socialising. Sotogrande, at the western end of the Costa del Sol, plays host to first-class equestrian competitions that are open to everyone to enjoy at the world-famous Santa María Polo Club. Although there is polo to watch almost every weekend in the early summer, the jewel in the crown of the season is the marathon International Polo Tour- nament. This runs every day from 25th July to 1st September in 2018 and is one of the world’s top four polo festivals. This summer is the 47th time the tournament has been held and over the years it has grown into a major grand- slam event for elite international polo and a key date on the Costa del Sol’s social calendar, attracting visitors and residents of many nationalities.

Casual evenings What sets the Santa María Polo Club tournament apart is the relaxed, infor- mal air, befitting of balmy summer eve- The tented village nings on the Spanish Mediterranean. provides shopping, Dress code is casual and entrance is free games for children and of charge, apart from the last few days. evening entertainment. :: SUR Everyone is welcome, including fami- Admission to watch the polo tournament is as little as five euros for adults and children go free. :: SUR

The fast pace of the game is addictive. :: SUR Visitors can enjoy drinks while watching the matches. :: SUR lies, and the club prides itself on being Horses are swapped regularly to keep SUMMER 2018 pet friendly. them fresh in the speedy play and a polo The gallop of the horses, the whack of team could have up to 20 of them ready the ball, the gasps of the crowd, the clink- and waiting. Dates and times: The Internatio- ing of glasses and the laughter of good nal Polo Tournament runs from 25 friends. If your only contact with polo Changing horses July to 1 September 2018. Polo is has been through the gossip columns of Be sure to wander down to the end of played every day, usually starting the newspapers, you’re in for a treat and the field in the area known as the from around 5pm until dusk. also a surprise at just how easy it is to ‘palenque’ and watch how the quick pick up the rules and terminology as a change of horses is made and how the Admission: Free, apart from semi- spectator. helpers keep them warmed up ready to finals and finals in the last few days. One game (there are at least two a day) trot back into play. typically lasts under an hour, and is divided Of course, while you’re there for the More information: www.santa- into seven-minute periods called ‘chukkas’, skill and quality of the sport, there is mariapoloclub.com. See Facebook with two teams of four players on horse- also plenty of time for socialising and or Twitter for up-to-the-minute de- back aiming to score the most goals. soaking up the atmosphere. tails and times. To first-time visitors it is as if football At the summer international tourna- has been stirred in with Ascot in a thrill- ment there is a ‘tented village’ with Location: The club is near Soto- ing summer cocktail mix. The fast pace stores offering everything from Maser- grande, alongside the intersection of the game is addictive, as is watching atis to mojitos, places to eat, a chil- of the AP-7 and A-7 with ample the strength and agility of the horses, dren’s area and, as the afternoon games free parking. Food and drinks are known as polo ponies and typically thor- wind up and the sun goes down, eve- available. oughbred mares. ning entertainment.

55 terparks continue to be a major attraction in the hot summers on the Costa del Sol, where every season over half a million people go there to have fun and cool down. The formula, based on speed and vertiginous heights, has hardly varied since that time but technology has en- abled attractions to be incorporated that would have been unthinkable a few years ago. Slides, wave pools, waterfalls, water tunnels and other installations with impossible turns and tracks coexist alongside leisure areas, sunbeds, restaurants and children’s play areas. The opening of Aquapark, now Aqualand, revo- lutionised the concept of leisure parks in Malaga province, and similar ones began to open up, some more successful than others. Family fun at a waterpark on the Costa del Sol. :: SUR The waterpark in Torremolinos, however, can boast of being the first complex whose at- The Aqua Tropic tractions were made in A winning waterpark is located in Spain, and the second in the Granada town of Europe. Almuñécar. :: IDEAL A British company had chosen Malaga, the birthplace of tourism in Andalucía, to import the formula model which had begun in the USA several years earlier. In March 1984 the then mayor, Pedro Aparicio, laid the first stone of this park, which still retains the same Waterparks continue to bring in the essence although everything else, includ- crowds, summer after summer ing its name, has changed. Loyal clientele When it first opened in 1984, the The corseted swimsuits and the 700 pese- The three waterparks in the advertising for the Aquapark offered a tas it cost to enter have given way to a province of Malaga alone attract challenge which was difficult to resist: heterogenous but loyal clientele. more than half a million people “Come down the kamikaze, the highest, “Tens of thousands of our visitors come fastest slide in Europe. Battle with the every year,” say proud sources in the Mar- every summer gigantic Waikiki Sur waves and descend keting Department. The visit to Aqua- ALBERTO GÓMEZ the raging waters of the Waterfall land, whether the opulent “let’s do every- Mountain,” it said. thing” version or the classic and cheaper More than three decades later and wa- tupperware and soft drink option, is part

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of the summer routine for many people from Malaga. Its approximately 70,000 square metres contain attractions such as the ‘boomerang’, the ‘crazy cones’ and the ‘anaconda’.

Prices and offers Tickets to enter the waterparks in Malaga normally cost about 20 euros for adults and 15 for children, although they all have season tickets and offers for groups and families. Most also give discounts for those who book online. At AquaMijas the ambience is also family-friendly, as the manager, María del Mar Asesio, explains: “Several generations come together, and the ‘slow river’ with baths and floats, is the most popular attraction. It’s lovely to see whole families having fun together,” she says. In recent years these complexes have added new facilities to maintain the flow of visitors and combat the increased at- Visitors can rent inflatables to use on the slides. :: SALVADOR SALAS tractions on beaches and at hotels on the Costa del Sol. One of them is Aquavelis in form of these games. “You have to rein- like the way the attractions and commu- Torre del Mar, which this season incorpo- vent yourself. Two years ago we expanded nal areas are laid out, as they are designed rated a room with virtual reality games. the children’s areas with new slides for to make it easy to keep an eye on chil- This means the water challenges are now under-10s,” says the commercial director dren. “It’s not as busy as other parks and accompanied by hordes of ‘zombies’ to of Aquavelis, Rafael Gálvez. people like to have more space and not to fight, simulators to drive, castles to de- Those who use this waterpark in the have to queue for long,” he explains. fend and space drones to combat, in the Axarquía, around 70,000 every summer, Costa Tropical Further east, in the province of Granada, is Aqua Tropic in the town of Almuñécar. This year celebrating its 30th anniversary, Aqua Tropic has activities for both the most daring and laid-back, with a wide range of rides and attractions including a jacuzzi for adults and a small paddling pool for the under 3s (who go free). The team of lifeguards, as well as looking out for visitors’ safety, are always on hand to help family’s plan their day out according to their needs.

WATERPARKS Aqualand: Torremolinos (Malaga).

AquaMijas: Fuengirola (Malaga).

Aquavelis: Torre del Mar (Malaga).

Aqua Tropic: Almuñécar (Granada).

Summer thrills for all ages at Aqualand. :: SALVADOR SALAS

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like a sleeping Red Indian and a tragic legend of impossible love - the Peña de los Enamorados - and, for those with time, a In the shade of tour of a magical park with ancient rock formations in shapes that only nature could come up with - El Torcal - and you would have busy ticket booths all year round. the steeples But this is no theme park; Antequera is a bustling town where modern life goes on in and around its inseparable historical heritage, for better, for worse. The ring Inland towns like Antequera might be road suddenly, and annoyingly, narrows hotter than the coast in summer but life to a single lane and takes some awkward bends to avoid a Roman villa discovered goes on, just at a slower pace during construction. Local people are used to passing historical buildings on their daily journey to work, school or the For anyone whose beach- If you were handed a map of Antequera shops and negotiating narrow pavements frazzled brains need a jump with all the historical sites drawn cartoon interrupted by centuries-old church steps. style you might think you were entering They say there are more churches and start this summer, there’s a theme park. Go back into the Bronze convents in this town per head of popula- nothing better than heading Age at the Viera, Menga and El Romeral tion than anywhere else in Spain. I ha- dolmens, visit Roman times with a villa, ven’t done the maths, but the view from inland for a fascinating history baths and the famous bronze efebo the Alcazaba with the numerous towers lesson RACHEL HAYNES statue, travel back to Moorish Andalucía protruding from the sea of rooftops indi- at the Alcazaba... and so on through relig- cates they are probably right. ious and civil architecture from the 15th Antequera in the middle of summer century onwards. Throw in a rock shaped might seem like a ghost town during the hot afternoon, when those who haven’t been able to escape down to the coast are either inside with the air conditioning or at the local pool. However, earlier in the day or during the cooler evenings, life goes on and the town’s history book is open to be read. The dolmens are of course a must-see, especially since their declaration as a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2016. The municipal museum takes visitors on an organised tour of the town’s history,

Tourists outside the Menga dolmen, now a World Heritage Site. :: SUR Some of the towers. :: SUR

60 Inside one of the dolmens. :: TURISMO A view of the town of Antequera. :: TURISMO however a stroll around the streets of the Andalucía, provides another refreshing along with other iconic buildings in the old town offers a colourful view of the escape from the heat. town, will be seen in a different light distinguished past of Antequera. for the Antequera Light Fest. This year Churches, convents and palatial Blues festival and fair the event, a spectacle of light and homes line the streets, as the sun’s rays The beautiful façade of the Santa María sound, commemorates the second anni- struggle to find their way through the church becomes the backdrop at the versary of the declaration of the dol- jumble of steeples and belltowers. Step end of July for the Antequera Blues Fes- mens as a Unesco World Heritage Site. inside the churches to discover impres- tival. While concerts take place at dif- Summer events continue with the sive altarpieces, such as the Baroque ferent venues throughout the season, traditional fair from 19 to 24 August, masterpiece in the Iglesia del Carmen. the festival culminates in two nights of when the streets and the fairground The 16th-century Santa María del Mayor music (27 and 28 July) under the stars will fill with music and dancing and, of collegiate church, considered the first in the square in front of the church. course, the traditional flamenco dresses Renaissance-style church to be built in Before then, the Santa María church, and decorated horses.

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The 2017 Three CulturesFestival. :: SUR Celebrating

then and now Reconquista era, when Muslims who stayed in Anda- lucía but didn’t convert to Christianity were known as Mudéjars or Moriscos. The style of architecture, which can still Discover the relevance of the three be seen in many towns in the area, especially in the form of church towers cultures festival of Frigiliana which were converted from mosques after the Reconquista, comes from this This year the village will sicians are carefully selected to repre- era. Frigiliana is one of a number of vil- sent the three cultures celebrated over lages in the Axarquía to have preserved be celebrating the 13th the weekend; Christian, Islam and Juda- examples of the style. Festival de las Tres ism and while this year’s acts have not While there is no architectural heri- been announced yet, festival-goers have tage or monument to Jews living in Culturas, but why are high expectations, especially after Frigiliana, their existence and indeed Manu Chao performed at the 10th anni- important contribution to Spanish soci- Judaism and Islam versary in 2015. ety, particularly during the early Al-An- important there? dalus era, is well documented. Jews had Why Three Cultures? a particularly strong presence in Cór- JENNIE RHODES Frigiliana is well known for being one of doba and spread around Andalucía. They Andalucía’s best-preserved Mudéjar vil- were often well respected philosophers, lages. Its beautiful historic centre has doctors and scientists. The village of Frigiliana will be celebrat- been officially recognised as one of ing the 13th Festival de las Tres Culturas Spain’s most beautiful villages since Judaism in Spain from 23 to 26 August this year. The festi- 1982 and has won various awards from However, during the late 13th and early val attracts upwards of 35,000 visitors tourism websites, such as Tripadvisor 14th Century, anti-Semitism spread each year who go to see the live music, over the years. across Spain and Jews were forced to medieval market and spectacular fire- wear a yellow badge. There were massa- works display as well as to sample the Mudéjar architecture cres in 1366 and 1391 and after the Re- delights of the tapas tour. Each year mu- The term Mudéjar derives from the post conquista, Catholic Queen and King,

62 Isabella and Ferdinand, ordered the ex- pulsion of Jews from Malaga. This act was cemented in the Alhambra Decree of 1494 and only repealed under Franco’s government in December 1968. In 2015 the Spanish government offered Spanish citizenship to Sephardic Jews whose ancestry is Spanish. Now the symbol of Frigiliana which is incorporated into the Three Cultures festival publicity, is a merging of the Is- lamic crescent moon, the Jewish Star of David and the Christian cross. An iron sculpture made by local artists, Oliver Perry and Robert Harding, reminding visitors and residents alike of the importance of the three cultures in Spain’s history can be found at the end of Calle Chorruelo. The village’s narrow, cobbled streets, which wind up steps and past endless reminders of Andalucía’s Islamic era, are now home to craft and souvenir shops and a mixture of hip and traditional lit- The Islamic crescent tle cafés and restaurants catering for lo- moon, the Star of cals and visitors alike. David and the Christian cross, Sightseeing in Frigiliana fused in one There are a number of sights in the vil- sculpture. :: SUR lage that are well worth visiting: the Arab castle, the old fountain, the Azu- carera - the only working sugar cane fac- cool walks and stunning scenery and is FURTHER INFORMATION tory in Spain -, and the Casa del Apero best enjoyed early in the morning or in museum. Iglesia San Antón with its the evening during the summer Frigiliana tourism. www.turismof- Mudéjar-style carvings and the Plaza de months. rigiliana.es/en las 3 Culturas are further signs of the As Frigiliana’s streets are narrow and importance of Islam, Judaism and Chris- there are plenty of cafés and terrace bars Three Cultures festival. www.fest- tianity in this part of the world. to relax in, it is still a good alternative to ivalfrigiliana3culturas.com Easily accessible from the village is busy beaches, even on the hottest of also the Higuerón river, which offers days.

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One summer, more than a hundred concerts What’s on this summer in Malaga province

JULY les Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). Cosse & Short Fuse Blues, Pedro Peinado 10.30pm. Between 29 and 217 euros. Band. 9pm. Free entry. 6 Juan Magán: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles Brad Mehldau: Portón del Jazz. Alhaurín Weekend Beach Festival: On Poniente Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). Sessions de la Torre. 10.30pm. 20 euros. beach in Torre del Mar. David Guetta, Al- stage. 2am. Between 28 and 400 euros. borosie, Izal, Macaco, Mala Rodríguez, El Ojeando Festival: Ojén (inland from Mar- 14 Langui, La M.O.D.A., Antílopez, Arco, bella). Carlos Sadness, Maga, Rufus T. Fire- Ojeando Festival: Ojén (inland from Mar- Adam Beyer, Vitalic. Tickets 70 euros; 85 fly, Perro, Second DJs, Ballena. Two-day bella). Lori Meyers, Nancys Rubias, Nuna- euros with camping. ticket 25 euros. With camping, 40 euros. tak, Niños Mutantes DJs, Dreyma. Two- Avishai Cohen: Portón del Jazz. Alhaurín Mercé Sinfónico: Marenostrum Castle day ticket 25 euros. With camping, 40 de la Torre. 10.30pm. 15 euros. Park, Fuengirola (outside Sohail Castle). euros. 10pm. Between 27.50 and 71.50 euros. Mijas Blues Festival: Mijas Municipal Audi- 7 Paquito D’Rivera: International Music and torium. Raimundo Amador, Little Boy Weekend Beach Festival: On Poniente Dance Festival. Nerja Caves gardens. Quique, The Lito Blues Band. 9pm. Free beach in Torre del Mar. Bunbury, Jimmy 10pm. Between 20 and 45 euros. entry. Cliff, Wyclef Jean, Asian Dub Foundation, Mijas Blues Festival : Mijas Municipal Francisco: Festival Ciudad de Fuengirola. Avalanch, Celtas Cortos, Dorian, Dubioza Auditorium . Richard Ray Farrell, Ike Sohail Castle. 10pm. Between 22 and 38.50 Kolektiv, Eskorzo, Neuman, SFDK, Ben Klock, Hot Since 82. Tickets 70 euros; 85 euros with camping. La Noche Rosa: Festival Ciudad de Fuengi- rola. Sohail Castle. Seguridad Social, La Unión, Mikel Erentxun, Javier Urquijo, Ja- vier Ojeda, Nacho Campillo, Marilia, Anto- nio Vega tribute act. 8pm. Between 27.50 and 40 euros. Pastora Soler: Malaga Municipal Audito- rium. 10pm. Between 27.50 and 66 euros. 8 Rubén Blades: Terral Festival. Teatro Cer- vantes (Malaga). With Roberto Delgado and his Salsa Big Band. 8.30pm. Between 22 and 75 euros. 11 Luis Miguel: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Between 136 and 868 euros. 13 Rosario y Rosana: Starlite Festival. Nagüe- Sting and Shaggy. :: EFE

64 Santana, Rubén Blades, Ricky American jazz pianist, composer, and Martin, Juanes, Maluma... arranger, Brad Mehldau will perform at the Portón del Jazz on 13 July. Sting Latino artists have a strong will dip into some reggae with a per- representation alongside formance alongside Shaggy on 19 July other names from the in the Nagüeles Quarry in Marbella. A day earlier the Pet Shop Boys will be international music scene like there, bringing back the golden era of the Pet Shop Boys, Sting and electronic pop. On 21 July, Vetusta Brad Mehldau Morla will perform for the public Luz Casal. outside Sohail Castle in Fuengirola. REGINA SOTORRÍO :: SUR Ricky Martin will have everyone swa-

euros. rola. La Granja, Kurt Baker, Feedbacks. Pitingo: Benalmádena Municipal Audito- K7s, Las Srtas. Estrechas, The Loud Resi- rium. 10.30pm. Between 22 and 55 dents. 25 euros for single ticket, 40 euros. euros for two days. Prices increase in July. 15 Pasión Vega: Benalmádena A Fuego Festival: Marenos- Municipal Auditorium. trum Castle Park, Fuengirola 10pm. Between 27.50 and (outside Sohail Castle). 66 euros. 7.30pm. Between 30.80 Garrapatea Estepona: and 99 euros. Estepona bull ring. With Los Aslánticos, La Dsty- 18 leria, Maleantes, Radio Pet Shop Boys: Starlite Ciao, Jungla Band, Toma- Festival. Nagüeles Quarry sito. From 17.50 euros. Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Between 69 and 22 456 euros. Jamiroquai: Starlite Festi- val. Nagüeles Quarry Audi- 19 torium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Sting & Shaggy: Starlite Festi- Between 102 and 578 euros. val. Nagüeles Quarry Audito- rium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Be- tween 125 and 912 euros. 24 Javier Perianes: International Music Maita Vende Cá: Starlite Festival. and Dance Festival. Inside Nerja Cave. Nagüeles Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). 10pm. 55 euros. Weekend Beach Festival in Sessions stage. 10.30pm. Between 10 and Torre del Mar. :: SUR 1,500 euros (table for ten). 20 David Bisbal: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles tel terrace. 9.45pm. Sold out. 25 Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Antonio Serrano: Portón del Jazz. Alhaurín Maná: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles Quarry Between 71 and 434 euros. de la Torre. 10.30pm. 15 euros. Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Between Fuengirola Pop: Pog’s Irish Pub, Fuengi- 108 and 625 euros. rola. Cooper, Briatore, Agentes Secretos, 21 Súper Ratones. Dry Surfers. 25 euros single Vetusta Morla: Marenostrum Castle Park, 26 ticket, 40 euros for two days. Prices in- Fuengirola (outside Sohail Castle). Luis Fonsi: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles crease in July. 10.30pm. Between 27.50 and 35.20 euros. Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Ky-Mani Marley: Festival Ciudad de Fuen- José Manuel Soto: Starlite Festival. Nagüe- Between 35 and 301 euros. girola. Sohail Castle.With Malaka Youth les Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). Ses- and Mediterranean Roots. 8.30pm. 14 sions stage. 10.30pm. Between 28 and 400 27 euros. euros. Miguel Poveda: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles Rayden: Live the Roof. Málaga Centro Ho- Fuengirola Pop: Pog’s Irish Pub, Fuengi- Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm.

65 CULTURE

ying their hips a month later (16 Au- will celebrate his 70th birthday in the Lori Meyers will be headlining at the gust). Whatever date you pick this Nerja Cave gardens (13 July). Mexican indie festival Ojeando in Ojén. Fuengi- summer, there will be a concert. guitarist Carlos Santana will be pla- rola Pop has again returned to the Music appears to be in Malaga all ying Latin rock at Sohail Castle on 9 agenda. Los Álamos Beach Fest has mo- summer. Latin rhythms prevail, inclu- August. Juanes, Alejandro Fernández, ved to Estepona. Weekend Beach Fest ding the ‘bachata’ of Romeo Santos (21 Luis Miguel, Jorge Drexler, Maná and has already started in Torre del Mar for July, Starlite), the reggaeton of Malu- many other artistswill also perform in the fifth consecutive year and the ma (7 September, Malaga Auditorium) the province. Marbella and Fuengirola Chanquete World Music festival in and the ‘Despacito’ of Luis Fonsi (26 will have the biggest concentration of Nerja will celebrate its third edition. July, Starlite). Rubén Blades will bring international musicians again this New this year, the Oh See! Festival salsa to the Terral Festival (8 July) and year. brings indie music back to the city of Cuban saxophonist, Paquito D’Rivera And these festivals are here to stay. Malaga.

Between 29 and 179 euros. 10.30pm. Between 79 and 588 euros. tova (Malaga). Launch party. Ticket for Alejandro Fernández: Marenostrum Castle Los Álamos Beach Fest: Estepona fair- Thursday and Saturday (Friday is free), 35 Park, Fuengirola (outside Sohail Castle). ground. Firebeatz, Maurice West, Abel The euros. 10pm. Between 55 and 165 euros. Kid, Javi Reina. General entry 61 euros. Antequera Blues Festival: Plaza de Santa With camping, 76 euros. Day ticket, 21 3 María. Line-up to be confirmed. Free euros. James Blunt: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles entry. Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Cyrille Aimée: Portón del Jazz. Alhaurín de 2 Between 42 and 301 euros. la Torre. 10.30pm. 20 euros. Steven Tyler: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles Los Álamos Beach Fest: Estepona fair- Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. ground. Armin Van Buuren, Bad Bunny, 28 Between 69 and 456 euros. Beret, Camelphat, Seguridad Social, Brian Il Divo: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles Quarry Los Álamos Beach Fest: Estepona fair- Cross, Chelina Manuhutu, Dennis Cruz, Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Between ground. Steve Angello, Oro Viejo, Arkano, Dj Nano, Juanjo Vergara, Luis Roca, Mon- 120 and 625 euros. Danny Ávila, Dellafuente, Yves V. General chi Dj & Carlos Slork. General entry 61 Raphael: Malaga Municipal Auditorium. entry 61 euros. With camping, 76 euros. euros. With camping, 76 euros. Day ticket, 10pm. Between 33 and 66 euros. Day ticket, 33 euros. 35 euros. Miguel Campello: Benalmádena Audito- Canela Party: Sala París 15, Calle La Oro- Luz Casal: Marenostrum Castle Park, rium. 10.30pm. 25.30 euros. Fuengirola (outside Sohail Castle). 10pm. Mad Urban Fest: El Pozuelo football sta- Between 33 and 71.50 euros. dium (Torremolinos). With Ozuna, Sergio Canela Party: Sala París 15, Calle La Oro- Contreras, Haze, Clase-A, Dominik DJ, OFI tova (Malaga). Costume party for children La Melodia, Ricky Guay. Between 38.50 and pets. Free entry. and 110 euros. La Habitación Roja: Málaga Centro hotel Antequera Blues Festival: Plaza de roof terrace. Live the Roof. Sold out . Santa María. Line-up to be confirmed. Free entry. 4 Pablo López: Starlite Festival. 31 Nagüeles Quarry Auditorium Romeo Santos: Starlite Festi- (Marbella). 10.30pm. Sold out. val. Nagüeles Quarry Audito- Los Álamos Beach Fest: Estepona rium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Be- fairground. Marco Carola, W&W, tween 98 and 525 euros. Héctor Couto, JP Candela, Marco Soja: Sala París 15, Calle La Faraone, Sunnery James & Ryan Orotova (Malaga). 8.30pm. 25 Marciano, Isabela Clerc. General euros. entry, 61 euros. With camping, 76 euros. Day tickets, 36.30 euros. El Barrio: Marenostrum Castle Park, AUGUST Fuengirola (outside Sohail Castle). 10.30pm. Between 29.50 and 82.50 1 euros. Pablo Alborán: Starlite Festival. Nagüe- Jay Kay, lead singer of Canela Party: Sala París 15, Calle La Oro- les Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). Jamiroquai. :: AP tova (Malaga). Gran Pitote. With Fucked

66 The Starlite Festival takes place at the Nagüeles quarry in Marbella. :: JOSELE-LANZA

Up, Los Punsetes, Cala Vento, La Plata, girola (outside Sohail Castle). 11pm. Be- Diola and Tigres Leones. Ticket for Thurs- tween 62.05 and 134.20 euros. day and Saturday, 35 euros. Saturday Noche Movida: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles ticket, 30 euros. Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). With Cóm- plices, Coti, Javier Gurruchaga, Manuel Es- 6 paña (La Guardia), Nacho Campillo (Tam Hardwell: Starlite Festival. Sessions stage, Tam Go), Nacho García Vega (Nacha Pop), Nagüeles Quarry (Marbella). 2am. Tickets Pablo Carbonell, Ricardo Marín and Rubi from 28 euros. (Los Casinos). 10.30pm. Between 32 and 243 euros. 7 Rocío Molina with Sílvia Pérez Cruz: Terral 10 Festival, Teatro Cervantes (Malaga). Juanes: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles Quarry 8.30pm. Between 15 and 45 euros. Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Between Cantajuego: Starlite Festival. Sessions 30 and 191 euros. stage, Nagüeles Quarry Auditorium (Mar- bella). 8.30pm. Between 22 and 70 euros. 11 Paco Candela: Festival Ciudad de Fuengi- 8 rola. Sohail Castle. 10pm. Between 16.50 Joan Manuel Serrat: Starlite Festival. and 35.20 euros. Nagüeles Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). 8.30pm. Between 48 and 416 euros. 12 J. Balvín: El Pozuelo football stadium (Tor- 9 remolinos). From 8pm. Between 30 and Santana: Marenostrum Castle Park, Fuen- Pablo Alborán. :: EFE 65 euros.

67 Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Between 38 and 301 euros. 24 Rosalía y Rozalén: Starlite Festival. Nagüe- les Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Between 29 and 217 euros. 25 Melendi: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Between 35 and 200 euros. Indio Rock Festival: Villanueva del Trabuco (towards Antequera). Las Odio, Polock, The Unfinished Sympathy, Pasajero and DJ Cycle. Free entry.

Ara Malikian. :: EFE SEPTEMBER 14 7 Juan Magán: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles Maluma: Malaga Municipal Auditorium. Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). Sessions 10pm. Between 49.50 and 82.50 euros. stage. 2am. Between 28 and 650 euros. Texas: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles Quarry 14 Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Between Full: Malaga Centro Hotel terrace. Live the 32 and 239 euros. Roof. 9.45pm. Sold out. Palmito Rock Festival: Villanueva de la Concepción (towards Antequera). Mitad 15 Doble, alongside other groups. Chanquete World Music: Playazo beach, Nerja. Kase.O, SFDK, Juanito Makandé, El 15 Canijo de Jerez, Bebe, Morodo, Green Val- Taburete: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles ley, Mojinos Escozíos, Termenda Jauría, La Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Pompa Jonda. From 4pm. 24 euros for ad- Between 42 and 260 euros. vance tickets. 40 euros with camping. Oh See! Festival: Malaga Municipal Audito- 16 rium. Los Planetas, Iván Ferreiro, Sidonie, Ricky Martin: Marenostrum Castle Park, Ricky Martin. :: I. M. Coque Malla, La Casa Azul, Elyella, Carlos Fuengirola (outside Sohail Castle). Be- Sadness, Amatria, Nixon. From 1pm. Gen- tween 35 and 125 euros. eral entry, 30 euros. Children between 12 UB40: Estepona bull ring. 9.30pm. From 19 and 16 years old, 15 euros. 42 euros. Kool & The Gang: Puente Romano Tennis Sebastián Yatra: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles Club (Marbella). 9pm. From 50 euros. 22 Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). Sessions Manolo García: Malaga Municipal Audito- stage. 10.30pm. Between 28 and 1,500 21 rium. 9.30pm. 39.60 euros. euros (table for ten). Estopa: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). 10.30pm. Be- 23 17 tween 52 and 251 euros. Ara Malikian: Malaga Municipal Audito- Tribute to women: Starlite Festival. Nagüe- rium. 10pm. Between 30 and 50 euros. les Quarry Auditorium (Marbella).With Ai- 22 tana, Ana Guerra, La Mari de Chambao, Lo- C. Tangana: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles 28 rena Gómez, Marilia, Rosa López, Sole Quarry Auditorium (Marbella). Sessions Loquillo: Malaga Municipal Auditorium. Giménez and Vicky Larraz. 10.30pm. Be- stage. 10.30pm. Between 28 and 500 euros 10pm Between 30 and 35 euros. tween 22 and 70 euros. (table for six). Kiko Veneno/No Me Pises Que Llevo Chan- 29 clas: Estepona bull ring. 8pm. From 27.50 23 Serrat: Malaga Municipal Auditorium. euros. Miguel Ríos: Starlite Festival. Nagüeles 10pm. Between 40 and 70 euros.

68 Rocking the Rock again this September

Festival-goers having a ball at the Victoria Stadium in 2017. :: SUR

MTV Presents Gibraltar Calling returns THREE OF THE TOP NAMES with the hottest music festival around Rita Ora. This Bri- tish pop singer’s de- but studio album A chance to see rock stars li, Chase & Status, Albert Hammond Jr. shot straight to and many more. Nor is the lineup com- the top of the UK whose music never ages, plete yet: the organisers are regularly charts in 2012 and contemporary artists who announcing the presence of other ar- she had three tists, as they confirm. consecutive No. 1 have quickly shot to fame One of the attractions of MTV Pre- singles the same and brand new talent sents Gibraltar Calling is the inclusion year. Two singles from of local bands alongside famous names, her second studio album SUR and the wide range of music, dance also reached the top ten last year. and DJs. This is a real family festival with a fantastic atmosphere, well-or- Boomtown Rats. It used to be called the Gibraltar Music ganised, secure and tremendous fun. It Bob Geldof and the Festival, until in 2017 it became ‘MTV is a truly unique experience to see and other members of Presents Gibraltar Calling’, but whate- join in with: grandparents, parents, this iconic Irish ver name you give it, in just seven teenagers and children all dancing rock band, which years it has grown to become the grea- along together to music by great artists reformed in 2013, test annual attraction for one of Euro- with the iconic Rock of Gibraltar as a are as busy as ever pe’s trendiest destinations, with people backdrop. and have as much travelling from miles around to be the- Tickets are on sale now and it is ad- energy and charisma re. The dates for the diary this year are visable to buy soon because they are as the original group an Friday 21 and Saturday 22 September. going very fast. They are available from unbelievable 43 years ago. the website www.gibraltarcalling.com Famous names and different options are available: in- Suzi Quatro. The This year’s line-up at the Victoria Sta- dividual tickets for Friday 21 or Satur- powerful voice of dium is the most exciting yet. Not-so- day 22 September or a combined ticket this American young rockers will be thrilled to have for the two days, or VIP packages for rock singer, the another chance to watch Boomtown each day. Entrance is free for children first female bass Rats, Texas, America, Sister Sledge and under the age of 12, but they must player to become Suzi Quatro in action, for example, have a special ticket which is acquired a major star, is un- while fans of more contemporary mu- in advance. mistakeable. She sic are already excited at the thought Gibraltar will be rocking for two has sold over 50 mil- of seeing Stormzy, Two Door Cinema days this September. Why not come lion albums. Club, Rag ‘N’ Bone Man, Rita Ora, Gir- along and rock with it?

69 BACK IN TIME

Take Take to the beach. While the trip to Baelo Claudia is an experience note in itself, take time to explore the Cadiz coastline past Gibraltar and the Strait. The white Atlantic beaches within the municipality of Tarifa are so impressive, so be sure to pack your beach clothes and plan for a long walk and swim in the Atlantic. DUNJA SCHMUTZ

ond century AD. It is located 22 kilometres northwest of Tarifa in the western part of the Bay of Bolonia. The Roman Emperor Claudius (41-54 AD), gave Baelo Claudia the status of municipium, as a Roman town. Its wealth was based around fisheries, production of salt fish and a fish sauce named “garum”. The harbour town served as an important link between the African con- tinent and Europe, being the main port of the region.

Decline In the 2nd century AD, it was largely destroyed by a seaquake and then experienced a slow decline which lasted for several centuries. Attacks from Mauritanian pirates and Germanic tribes contributed significantly to the fact that the town was abandoned by The Roman settlement of Baelo Claudia sits on the Atlantic Coast. :: SUR the 7th century. Visitors to the beautifully situated ruins in the Strait (Estrecho) Natural Park, will discover a surprisingly well- preserved Roman town and can follow the footsteps of the Romans as they On the trail of walk through its streets. The monuments such as the basilica, the theatre, the market and the Isis Temple; urban elements such as the thermal baths; the production facilities for salt fish the Romans and garum; and the complete town wall with its main gates and aque- ducts; tell the story of the long-lost culture. The visitor centre, opened in Baelo Claudia next to Bolonia beach in 2004, exhibits the most impressive Tarifa is one of the best-preserved and valuable pieces. ancient Roman towns in Europe A stroll through the site The tour begins in the visitor centre. A small replica of the town gives the visitor a first overview of the site. The The place prospered very The most diverse civilisations have general information includes subjects quickly due to its location colonised the beautiful coastline of such as historical relationships, ad- southern Spain, among them the Ro- ministration and traffic connections. on the Atlantic coastline mans. They developed numerous sites The exhibition rooms themselves con- and its proximity to Africa of cultural wealth, military strength tain finds from the tombs and various DUNJA SCHMUTZ and economic prosperity. Lovingly re- memorial stones dedicated to the god- stored Baelo Claudia is one of the dess Isis. The heart of the exhibition is best-preserved of these settlements made of artistic and urban elements and is among the most complete Ro- such as various statues and above all man towns throughout the Iberian the pillar of the basilica. peninsula. Amphorae and fishing, garum or The site was founded in the 1st cen- saltfish production equipment testify tury BC and flourished until the sec- to the town’s economic activity.

Many parts of the ancient town are very well-preserved. :: SUR

There is a spa area featuring a mar- assembly venues, the municipal ar- GARUM ble Doryphoros statue that was found chives and the voting room. Various during excavations in 2012. The model shops, the so-called tabernea, limit the for this statue was a bronze work of square to the east. Garum was a very important ingredi- the sculptor Polyklet from the 5th The thermal baths are again outside ent of in Roman cuisine for many cen- century BC, which was copied many the town walls. This also very well- turies. It was made from fish, such as times in the following centuries. preserved complex and is one of the tuna and anchovies (while other re- The Doryphoros in Baelo Claudia is largest and best-preserved in Europe. gions made it out of eel and mackerel), the only statue of its kind preserved The Roman theatre, which the tour including their intestines, mixed with outside Italy. The find was a sensation, also passes, uses the slope of the ter- brine and fermented in open vats un- as it is yet another testimony to the rain to give way to numerous spectator der the sun for several months. great historical importance of the set- stands. When the process was complete, the tlement and also a cultural and artistic Back within the town walls, the mixture was squeezed and filtered; the stronghold far beyond fishing and salt- temple complex, the Capitoline Triad, clear liquid then served as a seasoning water production. completes the visit. Three temples are sauce. Similar fermentation tanks have dedicated to Jupiter, Juno and Min- been found in many Roman settle- Outside the walls erva, while another one is dedicated to ments in Italy and Spain, but usually From the visitor centre, you can either the original Egyptian goddess Isis, who in the outskirts since the smell was begin a tour through the Roman site or was also worshiped in Roman culture. unbearable. In some cities, the produc- walk outside the town walls which The tour ends at a vantage point, tion and trade of Garum helped create provide a view of the Punta Paloma which offers an excellent view of the great wealth. bridge, from where the town was sup- complex. plied with drinking water. The town wall is well preserved, as are numerous The Atlantic Coast towers and all four town gates. The beautiful location of the Roman BAELO CLAUDIA The complex of salt basins where complex in the Bay of Bolonia on the the garum fish sauce was produced, is Atlantic Ocean invites visitors to ex- To get there: the largest of its kind throughout the tend their tour to the beach. With Starting from Tarifa, take the N-340 in Iberian Peninsula and the individual white sand stretching as far as the eye direction of Cadiz. After 22 kms, exit vats are very well-preserved. can see, the wide and softly curved bay the coastal road following the sign to Within the town walls, the walk ends in a giant dune and is ideal for Bolonia. The address is Ensenada de Bo- leads past the market and various sunbathing or a long walk. lonia, Tarifa. squares. Monumental buildings and When the wind blows, this beach, colonnades surround the central which falls within the municipality of Visiting hours: square, called the forum: the adminis- Tarifa, is one of the most popular spots From 1 July: Tuesday to Saturday, 9am trative building and the basilica are for kite surfers from around the world. to 3pm and 6pm to 9pm; Sundays and impressive. For naturists there is also a nudist holidays, 9am to 3pm. To the north, the square is lined by beach in the bay.

BACK IN TIME

A revolution on the beaches of Malaga The construction of the ‘Balneario’ marked a turning point in etiquette and forms of outdoor entertainment

Until the Balneario spa centre, pools of warm or hot water never saw where the women could only go if they imitating the ones in the light of the sun. Everything was in- were accompanied by their husbands.” doors. That was a turning point for the mo- Santander and San Sebastián, Until, that is, a revolutionary rals of the era, because al- opened at the Baños del concept imported from the though the sexes were still Carmen in 1918, men and beaches of San Sebastián segregated, the ‘family’ arrived at the Baños del character of one of the women could only bathe Carmen with the cons- areas came as so- separately, in totally enclosed truction of its Balnea- mething of a relief. rio. It became truly re- Nevertheless, a indoor pools of warm water presentative of the bar-restaurant ANA PÉREZ-BRYAN ‘happy 20s’, a period about 300 m2 in during which people in size was built bet- Malaga had fun, especia- ween the two areas lly those of the wealthier and on each side of Nowadays, watching a beautiful sunset classes. the beach they placed at the Balneario after a leisurely dinner awnings, sunshades, with friends, it seems a very long time Something different bathing huts and chairs. ago that single women were not allowed The advertising of the time made it In 1919 the engineer Carlos Lo- to mix with men when going clear that this place had something ring drew up the first plans for a perma- swimming, or when outdoor activities different to offer, as historian Mari Pepa nent restaurant (the present one, which on the beach were almost unknown for Lara recalls in her book La Cultura del is on two floors, was designed by archi- people in Malaga; but in fact it isn’t. We Agua: los Baños Públicos en Málaga’ (pu- tect Daniel Rubio and opened in 1933), only need to look back one hundred blished by Sarriá) and in her own memo- and then the showers (especially those years, to 1918 and the inauguration of ries of the city. for women) were expanded. the Balneario, the spa centre at the Ba- One of those advertisements read: Other features were also introduced, ños del Carmen, an event that will be “Parque Balneario Nuestra Señora del making this a unique venue in the city: engraved forever in the collective me- Carmen SA. Open all year. Concerts. Va- a pier, a screen for silent films which mory as the start of a revolution on the riety Shows. Dance Floors. Competi- could be watched from the sea, an en- city’s beaches. tions. Regattas, Parties, Tennis court. trance to the Balneario (the one we Until then, Malaga had only had a Grand Restaurant.” know today), a dance floor, a tennis handful of ‘public baths’ where men and All those attractions were available in court and even an aquarium, inaugura- women could switch off from their 1922, when the facilities began to open ted in 1929. daily routine. They were the Apolo, Dia- all year round, but the Balneario was al- A final anecdote to show how excep- na and Estrella baths, which strictly ready well-known in the city, and had tional this place was: in one of the cor- upheld the long-established custom of been since its inauguration on 16 July ners there was a fountain from which, separating sexes and bathing conditions: 1918. instead of water, sherry flowed. men and women were separated by At first, the beach was divided in two, This section of Los Baños del Carmen enormous screens and cordons to avoid says Lara. “There was one part exclusi- became so popular that in 1922 a foot- “lascivious gazing”, and of course the vely for ladies and another for families, ball pitch was also built next to the com-

74 wear short trunks. Instead, ladies were told that when swimming off beaches and at spas they The Balneario was a popular entertainment venue. :: SUR had to wear swimsuits which covered their chest and also had a skirt, and men could only wear the type of shorts which were normally worn for sports. Two years later, cardinal Herrera Oria referred to the BOE instruction in his pasto- ral letter to worshippers, as he insisted on the need to uphold morality. The golden years of the Ba- ños del Carmen resulted in numerous happy memories, of endless parties and activities of all types which made it such an essential part of the social life of Malaga. There is a Facebook group Bathing pools in the early days. :: SUR Outside the Apolo baths. :: SUR called ‘Historia de Malaga’ where local history enthusiasts can share memories and information, such as the ‘buñladas’, charity festivals for soldiers injured in the African War and other social projects, tennis competitions - Queen Vic- toria Eugenia sometimes attended those with her children -, ‘stag parties’ with Neptune emerging from the waters to choose some of the bachelors, meetings of the French community in Malaga to celebrate Bastille Day, regattas and even some political events. The story of the Balneario ran parallel to the social life of the city until the 1970s, but then fewer events took place and were mainly only to celebrate important dates in the calendar. The restaurant and private beach con- Swimming huts were installed on the beaches. :: SUR tinued until the 1980s, when the former General Ports and Coast Department, plex, and Malaga CF and CD Malacitano “All of that was absolutely marve- which was part of the Spanish go- used to play there until La Rosaleda sta- llous,” says Mari Pepa Lara, who still re- vernment and owned the concession for dium opened in 1941. members her visits to the beach at Los the space, decided that access to the From 1950 onwards, the football Baños del Carmen, “in the ladies’ area, beach had to be free of charge, a decision pitch and tennis courts were converted of course”. which caused considerable controversy into an equestrian arena and even hos- Morality and decorous behaviour from and even ended up in the courts. ted a national championship. men and women on the beach was not Today, the Balneario still stands and is Nobody can talk about the Balneario just an option, either: it was an obligation. a wonderful place to watch the sun set, without mentioning its eucalyptus In the Official State Bulletin of 15 July but it is caught up in an administrative wood, where in 1958 a campsite desig- 1957, civil governors of the time were or- tangle marked by the end of the conces- ned by architect Andrés Escassi was dered to prohibit the use of “indecorous” sion and disagreements between the go- constructed: it had 300 spaces, covered swimwear: in other words, women were vernment, the Junta de Andalucía and over 13,000 square metres and was clas- not allowed to wear two-piece swimsuits the new private members. But that’s sified as ‘Second Category’. (bikinis) and men were not allowed to another story.

75 GASTRONOMY

Bringing in the catch, from sea to plate

Caleta de Vélez tradition has it that The fishing industry on the Costa dates the fishermen and their families pre- back to Phoenician times and remains pare a giant seafood paella to share with locals on the evening of 16 July. an important source of income today The image of Our Lady is taken out to sea on a boat and sailed, in a moving tribute, along the nearby coast and brought back to the port. Sardines, langoustine and Summer on the Costa del Sol would not Similar events take place in other mackerel are all common be the same without those long lunches ports and some towns have smaller of fresh fish by the sea. If that fish is processions in different neighbour- sights in restaurants along caught locally then all the better. hoods. Processions are normally joined the Costa del Sol all year Malaga province is home to five by municipal bands, local politicians, fishing ports; Estepona, Marbella, the fishermen and their families. It is round and most of these Fuengirola, Malaga city and Caleta de a popular festival for other local resi- species are caught locally Vélez. On July 16 every year, each one dents and visitors alike. JENNIE RHODES / AGUSTÍN PELÁEZ celebrates La Virgen del Carmen with The Costa del Sol is synonymous with a procession of an image of Our Lady ‘pescaíto frito’ (fried fish) and no sum- as well as festivities and fireworks. In mer scene is complete along the coast

Locally caught fish waiting to be sold at auction at Caleta fishing harbour. :: J. RHODES without the dug-out boats at chiringuitos (beach bars) cooking ‘espetos’ (skew- ers of sardines or other locally caught fish) on open fires. Locals and tourists pack out fish restaurants on any day of the week throughout the long summer months to tuck into what seems like an endless supply of hundreds of varieties of fish and seafood. Espetos may only be eaten when there is no ‘R’ in the month, according to a Spanish saying, while pho- tos of mouthwatering seafood paellas, topped off with langoustine, are up- loaded to social media sites by foodies coming here in search of the typical Spanish dish.

Locally caught fish Fishing boats come in with the catch of the day, Caleta harbour. :: J. RHODES Like many of the fruit and vegetables consumed in Malaga, most of the fish on offer is locally sourced too. Without having to make any real conscientious decision, here on the Costa del Sol, people barely need to worry about ‘food miles’ while enjoying a Mediter- ranean diet. Fishing has been an important industry in the province throughout the centuries, with evidence dating back to Phoenician times, through to the Romans, the Islamic period and it remains a major part of Malaga’s economy today. Caleta de Vélez is the biggest fishing harbour in the province, boasting around 90 fishing boats, while Estepona, with approximately 70 boats is the second biggest. Fuengirola’s float consists of about 55 boats and Marbella’s, 30. Among the most common species of fish to be caught by local fishermen are anchovies (boquerones), sardines, mackerel, red mullet, octopus and shellfish. In total around 150 species of View of Estepona port, home to one of the Costa’s fishing fleets. :: SUR fish are caught off the coast of Malaga via three different types of fishing; the 563,653 kilos of octopus and 106,454 markets and those who sell and or ex- ‘cerco’ - meaning shallow water fish; kilos of red mullet. port fish bid for it in a ‘subasta’ or auc- ‘arrastre’ - meaning trawler fishing; At the end of the catch, which can tion. Generally these are only open to and ‘marisqueros’ - meaning shellfish. be either first thing in the morning or the buyers and not the public. late afternoon, the fishing vessels can It is all too easy to forget the work Fish auctions be seen returning to harbours. Their and dedication that has gone into the In 2017 just over 7,000 tonnes of fish crates, with the fish already classified, sardines or seafood paella on our plate, were caught in the province. This are offloaded and sent directly to the but part of Malaga province’s economy broke down as three million kilos of adjoining ‘lonja’, or fish market, for relies on this centuries-old tradition. sardines, almost 800,000 kilos of auction. The fish is weighed and given So long live the espeto, the pescaíto white bait, 629,898 kilos of mackerel, a price. Then local restaurants, super- frito and the Virgen del Carmen!

77 GASTRONOMY

Summer is ‘espeto’ time - and not just sardines A traditional favourite lunch is taking on a new look nowadays Gilthead bream, red mullet, cod loin... these are some of the other types of fish cooked over an open fire and served in restaurants on the Malaga coast this summer JAVIER ALMELLONES

An ‘espeto de sardinas’ is a firm favourite in Malaga province in the summer. It is quite rare to find beach restaurants anywhere between Manilva and Nerja which do not offer sardines cooked in the traditional way, on canes over an open fire. However, many people may not realise that other fish can also be prepared like this, such as turbot, rockfish and sea bass. Some restaurateurs even use seafood like octopus, squid or shellfish. These are the other ‘espetos’ to look out for this summer along the Malaga coastline.

1. Cod loin (Vicen Playa) One of the most unusual dishes to be served on the coast is to be found at the Vicen Playa beach restaurant, at Sacaba, on the west side of Malaga city. Cod loin is a high quality product which comes from Iceland and is frozen while the ships are still at sea. Here, it is served with potatoes and spicy pilpil sauce. Not only is it becoming increasingly popular, but other restaurants in the area are now starting to copy the idea.

Bream and squid, 2. Gilthead bream (Pepe y Mary) cooking in La Carihuela :: J. A. In La Carihuela, Torremolinos, several XXX

A selection of fish cooking over the fire at a beach restaurant on the Costa del Sol. :: J. A.

Turbot in La Cala de Mijas. :: J. A. Sea bass cooking over a fire of olive wood, Calahonda. :: J. A. restaurants sell ‘dorada’ cooked on a these temples of fine taste is ‘La Luna style, and after sardines the most popu- cane over an open fire, and at the one Beach’, where the chef prepares sea lar seems to be turbot. The smoke from called Pepe y Mary the cooks can claim bass, among others. They use olive the fire gives the fish a unique flavour, to be real experts. For just 16 euros, you wood for the fire, to give a special say the owners of El Juncal. The price can enjoy the special flavour which touch. For just over 40 euros a kilo, varies, because they use wild turbot. comes from this ancient method of you can sample this delicious special- cooking fish. This beach restaurant ity, which is served without bones. 8. Jurel (El Saladero) buys its ‘dorada’ from fish farms. Before A fish which is commonly eaten in skewering the bream onto the canes 5. Blackspot sea bream (La Malaga, such as the ‘jurel’ type of through the mouth, they remove the Marina Playa) mackerel, is especially delicious when entrails, make cuts in the sides and The ‘voraz’, as it is called in Spanish, is cooked and served in the ‘espeto’ fash- sprinkle them with coarse salt. Then, another fish which is perfect for cook- ion, say local restaurants, especially El the fish is cooked on both sides for ing on canes over an open fire. At La Saladero in La Caleta de Vélez. There, about 20 minutes until tender. Marina Playa beach restaurant, in they use the same technique as for sar- Rincón de la Victoria, they use ones dines, and spear between six and eight 3. Red mullet (El Espeto) caught off Conil de la Frontera. The of the fish on each cane. The chefs at El Espeto beach restaurant ‘espetero’ uses a great deal of skill to in Torremolinos are able to cook practi- cook the fish for the exact amount of 9. Prawns (El Espigón de la Cala) cally anything by this method, but this time so it is very tender. The ‘gambónes’ are always well-pre- summer people are going crazy for the pareed in beach restaurants like El Es- red mullet, ‘salmonetes espetados’. Al- 6. Squid (Paradise Fraguas) pigón de la Cala and are particularly though it doesn’t appear on the menu, In Algarrobo Costa they’re pretty good popular at weekends. a portion of six or seven will cost beat cooking squid on canes over an open tween ten and 12 euros. fire, especially the Paradise Fraguas 10. Caballa (Los Manueles). beach restaurant, which puts ‘calamar’ Many people are great fans of this type 4. Sea bass (La Luna Beach on the menu in the summer season. of mackerel cooked on canes over the Calahonda) fire and this small fish can be enjoyed On Mijas Costa it is quite common to 7. Turbot (El Juncal) at several emblematic places, such as find other fishes cooked by this This Mijas beach restaurant serves a Los Manueles beach restaurant, en method, as well as the sardines. One of wide variety of fishes cooked ‘espeto’ Torremolinos.

79 GASTRONOMY

Advantages of this summer fruit seem endless: few calories, lots of vitamins and no fat for starters RAQUEL MERINO

Summer time is synonymous with a wide variety of fruits, with sweet tastes and bright colours. One of the standout varieties is the watermelon. With its high water content, which is very refreshing in the hot weather, and its relatively few calories (100 grammes contains only 30 calories), the watermelon also has an abundance of good carbohydrates, vitamins A, C , E , D, niacin, thiamin, magne- sium, potassium, fibre, vitamins B6 and B12 and pantothenic acid, and a lack of fat and cholesterol. The watermelon’s composition is based on L-citrulline; the body transforms this into L-arginine, which helps to relax the capillaries, is good for the heart and hy- Watermelon, pertension, and also helps to soothe muscle pain and recover, for example, from exercise. It is considered an anti-carcinogenic fruit because it contains a large amount of the super fruit lycopene, which gives it its red colour, and other carotenoids such as lutein and beta-carotene, which have been shown to be efficient in preventing cancers of the of the Spanish lungs, prostate and gastrointestinal can- cer. It is a diuretic and the fibre also helps with going to the bathroom. There are even people who argue that consuming the fruit improves sexual ac- summer tivity because L-citrulline helps with blood flow in the body and prevents problems like erectile dysfunction. Given all these benefits, watermelon is well worth getting into. Why eat it in slices when there is such a wide variety of Watermelon is one of the most recipes that allow you to enjoy its flavour refreshing summer fruits and it also better? contains very few calories. Here are some ideas about how you can make the most of the fruit that dominates the local markets this season

80 Watermelon is a healthy summer snack for children. :: SUR

WATERMELON SORBET WATERMELON GAZPACHO

Ingredients: 2 large slices every hour for a better texture. Ingredients: 1/4 seeded of watermelon, 1 egg white watermelon. 1 green Once it begins to freeze, add pepper. 5 plum tomato. Method: Separate the pulp an egg white that has been Wholemeal French from the skin and beat it. beaten to form stiff peaks. toast style crackers. Extra Virgin olive oil. Pour the mixture into a bowl Serve the sorbet in ice cream Salt. White wine vi- and put it in the freezer for bowls and decorate with mint negar. Two garlic three hours. leaves. cloves.

Remove from the freezer and stir Method: Dice the watermelon and put it in a bowl with the tomatoes, garlic WATERMELON AND CHOCOLATE CAKE and pepper and blend it. Put the crackers in a Ingredients: 4 eggs. 1 kg the sugar until they are whi- separate dish with a little watermelon. 1 cup sugar. 1 te. Add the oil and waterme- water to soak and then add cup sunflower oil. 2½ cups lon purée and mix well. to the bowl. Add a good flour. ½ cup (100g) chocola- Then add the flour and yeast squirt of oil and another of te chips. One teaspoon with a few drops of the red vinegar and beat. Leave in From the blog ‘Mil ideas, mil yeast. A few drops of red food colouring and mix care- the fridge until cold. proyectos’ food colouring. fully. Add the egg whites and chocolate chips and For the green glaze: An egg again mix carefully. Pour the WATERMELON “FLAN” white. Powdered sugar. mixture into the tin and Green food colouring. bake until done. Remove Ingredients: 500g of wa- mixture until it forms an from the oven and cool on a termelon pulp. 3 sachets of even mixture. Pour the mix- Method: Peel and crush rack. gelatin. 3 tablespoons of va- ture into a bowl. Whip the the watermelon, put in a nilla sugar. 250 ml of warm cream and add it to the bowl saucepan over medium heat Prepare the glaze by mixing water. 150 ml of cream to with the other ingredients, and leave for about 20 minu- the egg whites with the su- whip. then stir the mixture in a fol- tes to reduce to a thick pu- gar and the green food co- ding motion with a spatula. rée. Turn the oven to 180º louring until it is quite Method: Cut the water- Pour the entire mixture into and grease a deep cake tin. thick. Glaze and garnish melon into cubes. Put the a creme caramel tin and put it Separate the egg whites with mint leaves. vanilla sugar in a glass blen- in a refrigerator for at least 5 from the yolks and beat the der, dissolve the gelatin sa- to 6 hours (although it is bet- egg whites until they form (Recipe from the blog ‘El chets in warm water and ter to leave it for longer). stiff peaks and keep aside. In Nido de Mamá Gallina’) mix well. Add the waterme- Turn the flan out onto a plate a bowl mix the yolks with lon and sugar and crush the and decorate according to taste.

81 CONTACTS

slides, wave pool, whirlpools. Attractions C/ Cuba, 10. 29620 Torremolinos www.aqualand.es/torremolinos Opening times: May, June, September, October and activity 10am-6pm, July and August: 10am-7pm. Admission: 26 euros, concessions 17 euros, dis- parks on the counts available online. Aquavelis Waterpark with various giant slides and wave pool. Costa del Sol Ruta del Pomelo, Urb. El Tomillar, 29740 Torre Aventura Amazonia. :: SUR del Mar. Telephone 952 542 758, www.aquav- THE ANIMAL WORLD elis.es. Opening times: June and September: Selwo Marina cessions 8.50 euros. Online discounts available. 11am - 6pm, July and August: 11am - 7pm. Dolphinarium Animal Park with five zones: Las Admission approx: 24.50 euros, Discounts for Antillas, La Hondonada, Ice Island, Amazonia Lobo Park children and groups, season tickets, online and Los Trópicos; shows with dolphins, exotic Wolf Park with wolves in natural habitat, semi- tickets. birds, penguin feeding. Parque de la Paloma. nars on wolves and dog training, guided tours. 29630 Benalmádena, Telephone 902 190 482, Carretera Antequera-Álora, km 16, Antequera. www.selwomarina.es. Opening times: June: Telephone 952 301 107. OTHER 10am - 7pm. 1 - 10 July and August: daily 10am www.lobopark.com. Opening times: daily 10am Tivoli World - 9pm. 1- 9 September, 10am - 8pm. 10 Sep- -6pm. Admission adult 11 euros, children 7 Theme park with a big wheel, roller coaster, tember - 31 October 10am - 6pm. Admission: euros. Guided tours at 11am,1pm, 3pm, ghost train, go-karts, drop tower. Shows for chil- 11-65 Years 19.90 euros, concessions 15 euros. 4.30pm. dren and adults, various themed restaurants. Reductions, season tickets, combination and Avda de Tivoli s/n, 29630 Arroyo de la Miel. online tickets. Crocodile Park Telephone 952 577 016. Theme park with crocodiles, turtles and exotic www.tivoli.es. Opening times: June: 5pm - Sea Life birds. Tours and demonstrations. C/ Cuba, 14. 12pm. July to Unt11 September 5.30pm - Interactive aquarium with marine animals to 29620 Torremolinos. Telephone 952 051 782. 1.30am. Admission: 7.95 euros, Children under visit, touch and feed. Puerto Marina. 29630 www.cocodrilospark.com. 1 metre tall and over 65s free. 14.95 euros for Benalmádena. Telephone 952 560 150. Opening times: June, September, October: 11am unlimited rides. Online discounts available. www.visitsealife.com/Benalmadena - 7pm. July and August: 11am - 6pm. Admis- Opening times: 10am - 7.30pm. Admission: 16 sion: adult 16 euros, Concessions 12 euros. Aventura Amazonia Climbing Park euros, concessions 13 euros, season tickets, Treetop climbing and adventure park with rope online saver tickets. bridges and zipwires. C/ Valeriano Rodríguez, WATER PARKS Elviria. 29604 Marbella, 952835505. Selwo Aventura Aqua Tropic Almuñécar www.aventura-amazonia.com/parques-amazo- Selwo Aventura. Wildlife Adventure Park. Differ- Fun-packed water park with large slides and a nia/marbella. Opening times: July and August: ent routes for visitors to see animals and plants wave pool. 9am - 9pm. Admission: 24 euros, Discount for from around the world and in some cases to han- Paseo Reina Sofía, S/N, 18690 Almuñécar (Gra- children and groups. dle. 29680 Estepona, A-7, km 162.5. Telephone nada) 902 190 482. www.aqua-tropic.com Funny Beach Web:www.selwo.es. Opening times: 14 June to 9 September: 11am- Attractions on land and at sea, go-karts for chil- Opening times: June 10am - 6pm, July and 7pm. Admission: 18.90 euros, conces- dren and adults, trampoline, parasail- August: 10am - 8pm. September 10am - sions 15.30, children under 3 free. ing, banana boat on the sea, wake- 6pm/7pm. Admission: 10-65 years 25.90 euros, Discounts available online and board, zodiac, jetski. Marbella, Concessions 18 euros; Combined tickets and for groups. N-340, km 184. Tel. 952 season tickets available. Online discounts avail- 823 359. Web: able. Aquamijas www.funnybeach.com Waterpark for the whole Opening times: June Bioparc Fuengirola family with different 11am -9pm. July and Animal park with exotic animals and trees such slides and attractions. August: 11am- 12am. as the baobab tree. Avda. Camilo José Cela, 6. A-7, km 209, 29640 Price according to 29640 Fuengirola. Web: www.bioparcfuengi- Mijas Costa, Tel. 952 attraction. rola.es. 460 404. Opening times: June: 10am - 8.30pm. July and www.aquamijas.com Cable Car August: 10am - 11pm. In September, 10am - Opening times: June: Benalmádena 7/8pm (see dates). 10.30am - 6pm, July Takes visitors the top of Admission: 20.50 euros, Concessions and August: 10am - 7pm. Mount Calamorro, for 15.90/16.90 euros; family tickets and season 1-9 September: 10.30am - Benalmádena spectacular views and hik- tickets available. 6pm. 12-29 September: cable car. ing routes. Explanada Tívoli, 10.30am - 5.30pm. Admission: :: SUR s/n. 29630, Benalmádena. Tel. Butterfly house adult 26 euros.Family discounts 951 560 324. Benalmádena: Largest Butterfly House in and multi-day tickets, discounts available www.telefericobenalmadena.com. Open- Europe. Av. de Retamar, 29639 Benalmádena. online. ing times: June: 11am - 7pm. July and August: Opening times: daily from 10am - 7.30pm. Tel. 10am-12am. September: 11am -7pm. October: 951 211 196 www.mariposariodebenal- Aqualand Torremolinos 11am -6pm. Admission: 14.90 euros, 11 euros madena.com. Admission: Adult 10 euros, Con- Waterpark for the whole family with different for concessions.

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