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Frescoes and Folklore in an Umbrian Town

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Frescoes and Folklore in an Umbrian Town PROOF User: 140617 Time: 11:54 - 10-19-2012 Region: SundayAdvance Edition: 1 10 TR THE NEW YORK TIMES, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 28, 2012 OVERNIGHTER Frescoes and Folklore in an Umbrian Town By NELL CASEY Y family and I made the three-hour drive from Rome to Gubbio, winding M around spiraling curves as we approached the medieval Umbrian town on Mount Ingi- no, only to find that to reach the heart of the historic center we needed to walk up a seemingly perpendicular cobblestone street. Between pushing our 2-year-old daughter in her heavily laden stroller and feeling the sun beam down with fiery concentration, we felt as if we were walking up a wall on this last leg of the journey. But once we reached Piazza Grande, THE NEW YORK TIMES a central square that, on one side, over- looks the expansive vista of the city and, on the other, ushers visitors into the town’s charming streets, we quickly for- gave the steep climb. Gubbio, with 33,000 residents, is the largest commune in the province of Pe- rugia, and has less of a claustrophobic feel than some of its nearby Umbrian cousins like Todi and Urbino. There is a sense of grandness here — with block after block of elegant 14th- and 15th- century faded brick houses, sudden stairways adorned with bright flowers and ever more stunning views as you In Gubbio, three hours from Rome, you can climb higher into the town. Our plan was to visit for the week, while staying wander medieval cobblestone streets or head at Fonte al Noce, a resort we’d chosen for its last-minute availability but later to the mountaintop and take in the view. happily discovered was filled with simi- lar families — that is, tired parents with small children (our family includes a 7-year-old as well as our toddler) — from all over Europe. Whether you stay a night or a week or longer, you’re likely to succumb to the tranquil pleasures of Gubbio. Gubbio, set on the On the Piazza Grande, we quickly dis- slopes of Mount Ingi- covered the Palazzo dei Consoli, a tow- no, is a trove of medi- ering Gothic building of limestone lined eval houses, palazzos with narrow arched windows. Once the and churches. FROM place where Parliament gathered in the TOP A statue of St. Middle Ages, today the palazzo houses an art gallery and museum that offers, Ubaldo on Via Gari- in addition to paintings from the Umbri- baldi; a path on the mountaintop leading an art gallery and museum that offers, in addition to paintings from the Umbri- baldi; a path on the an school and archaeological finds, a mountaintop leading glimpse of the famed “Iguvine Tablets.” to panoramic views; We lingered over these seven bronze ceramics, long pro- tablets, created between the third and duced in Gubbio, in a first century B.C. The inscriptions in an shop on the Via dei ancient Umbrian language describe the Consoli; the Palazzo long ago religious rituals of Gubbio. dei Consoli, now hous- Outside the palace, we craned our necks to gaze at the bell tower rising up ing a gallery and mu- the side of the palazzo — a slender seum with paintings square structure containing a two-ton from the Umbrian bell. Our guidebook told us that the bell- school and archaeo- ringers use their feet to ring it. But how logical finds. did this work? I couldn’t picture it: An image of grown men lying flat on their ABOVE Ulisse e Letizia backs kicking up at the enormous bell serves traditional local like babies entered my mind. Later, af- dishes with truffles. ter happening upon an elaborate cos- RIGHT A cable car as- tume parade that led to a series of cends the mountain to dance performances and an archery the Basilica of Sant’- contest in the square, we found our- Ubaldo, which dates selves seated beneath the tower, staring back to the 13th centu- up at several men stepping forcefully down on pedals in order to put the bell ry and contains the in motion. Mystery solved. body of Gubbio’s pa- The festival we’d chanced upon was tron saint. the Torneo dei Quartieri, a crossbow competition among the town districts that is preceded and followed by festiv- ities in the town. Such celebrations are an integral part of Gubbio’s cultural life. The Feast of Candles, Corso dei Ceri, which happens every May, is the best known, with three teams racing through town carrying tall wooden pillars re- sembling large candlesticks, each topped with a statue of a saint. Smaller communal events take place throughout the year. PHOTOGRAPHS BY NADIA SHIRA COHEN FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES The number of things to see and do in Gubbio can be daunting, but let yourself off the hook, as we did, and spend a few fountain here, you officially become a to Ulisse e Letizia, on Via Mastro Gior- magnificent panoramic view of the city ances take place in the summer. Even hours walking aimlessly. This was how lunatic. gio, for lunch, one of the many fine res- and surrounding countryside. Here, too, farther out, on the way to Umbertide, we came upon the Fontana dei Matti, or Rather than ask pointless questions, taurants serving traditional local dishes is the restored Basilica of Sant’Ubaldo the town bordering Gubbio to the west, the Fountain of the Madmen. Venturing we joined the seven or so others duti- with truffles. Afterward, we strolled — its origins date as far back as the 13th the Civitella Ranieri Foundation, an art- back down from the Piazza Grande to- fully making the rounds. While walking along Corso Garibaldi, one of the main century — where the preserved body of ists’ colony, is set in an immense 15th- ward the Piazza Quaranta Martiri in circles, waiting for madness to de- shopping streets, and stopped for gela- St. Ubaldo, former bishop and patron century castle surrounded by lush gar- where our children had spotted a carou- scend, I noted the shops surrounding to, always a requirement in Italy, at La saint of Gubbio, is kept in a glass coffin. dens. Civitella, an otherwise private in- sel, we came across some people walk- the piazza, many of them offering the Meridiana. We were fueling up and, in Afterward, I dropped my husband stitution, presents a free series of con- ing silently around a simple stone foun- decorative ceramics — elaborate de- my case, gathering courage, to take a and children off in the English-style gar- certs and public readings in English tain. We took a quick glance at our signs infused with deep reds and blues ride on the Funivia Colle Eletto — a dens of Ranghiasci Park and sneaked from May 1 to Nov. 1 with such recent guidebook and realized we were in the and gold — for which Gubbio has long birdcage-like cable car that fits only two off for a tour of the town’s many fabled participants as the novelist Gary Piazza del Bargello. Folklore has it that been renowned. people and slowly ferries them to the churches. One of the most notable is the Shteyngart, the actor Wallace Shawn if you complete three laps around the Certified lunatics, we made our way top of Mount Ingino, where there is a Church of San Francesco, an imposing and the writer Deborah Eisenberg. 13th-century building with remarkable (When we were there, Peter Godwin frescoes, including “Stories of Mary” by was giving a reading.) Piazzas, Palazzos and a Mysterious Fountain Ottaviano Nelli, a celebrated Gubbio About three miles from Civitella, also painter. The Church of San Giovanni in the direction of Umbertide, is a won- WHERE TO STAY pool, a tennis court and beautiful Dinner for two costs about 25 euros. presents a humbler environment: re- derful family-run restaurant called Ris- The upscale Palace Bosone Hotel grounds. It is approximately 15 min- Trattoria Il Bottacione in Gola (Via mains of Gothic frescoes appear in sud- toro in Campagna. It is not well-marked (Via XX Settembre, 22; 39-075-92-20- utes from the historic center. A one- de Giove Pennino, 25; 39-075 92-72-063; den patches on the otherwise largely but you will find it if you turn into the 688; hotelbosone.com) is in the heart of bedroom apartment during high sea- ilbottaccioneingola.com) is a two- unadorned walls, wooden chairs are set driveway at the hand-painted sign that the old city. During high season, dou- son costs 800 euros per week. minute drive or taxi ride from the his- in rows in the small room with only a says “Torta al Testo.” The meals, which couple of pews behind them; several bles start at a reasonable 85 euros, or toric center; it’s awkwardly situated change daily and are offered in friendly WHERE TO EAT paintings, including “Annunciazione,” a conversation with the staff, rather than $108 at $1.27 to the euro, per night (on off a highway but worth the effort for Ulisse e Letizia (Via Mastro Giorgio, fascinating depiction by Camilla Fil- printed on a menu, are classic Italian. weekdays) and include breakfast. the outstanding Umbrian cooking at af- 2; 39-075-92-21-970; icchi, are on display as well. As our children raced after the chickens Three of the 30 rooms have terraces fordable prices. Dinner for two costs ristoranteulisseeletizia.com) can be Compelling as the historic center is, it and cats that roam the premises, my overlooking the valley; others have around 20 euros.
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