Learn to make jeans from this sought-after

BY JENNIFER STERN-HASEMANN

hen denim fabric entered the ready-to-wear market in the mid-19th century, it was used to make durable work pants. e textile was woven W on narrow, 32-inch shuttle . is gave denim a tight weave and distinctive strong, clean edges. In 1915, Levi Strauss partnered with Cone mills in Greensboro, North Carolina, to produce fabric for the company's signature jeans at Cone’s White Oak mill. is type of denim is today called “selvage denim,” because the are fully  nished with no loose threads; often, they include white and red or blue warp threads, yielding an attractive stripe. As jeans became more popular in the 1950s, companies looked for less expen- sive ways to manufacture denim. e new denim developed then, and still manu- factured, is produced on projectile looms that are twice as wide as a shuttle . While this denim still has selvage edges, they are not as clean or strong as those created on a shuttle loom (see “Recognize your selvages,” p. 43). Cone Denim closed its White Oak facility in 2017, ending an American tradi- tion of selvage denim production. Japanese manufacturers started producing denim in the 1960s and chose shuttle looms to craft their denim. e selvage edges became a signature, identifying the manufacturer by the color of the threads that were woven in.

Sew a classic for yourself— jeans in traditionally woven selvage denim. : J Jeans, J Stern Designs. Fabric: selvage denim, FashionFabricsClub.com.

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T211_ST_SelvageDenimJeans.indd 42 7/23/20 12:31 PM FABRIC SOURCES Because this fabric is no longer produced in the United States at an industrial scale, it can be di cult to  nd. A Google search on terms such as “selvage denim,” “Cone mills,” “Japanese denim,” or “raw denim” may turn up retailers with yardage to sell.  e narrow width means you’ll need nearly twice as many yards to sew a pair of jeans.  is may the cost of making jeans, but selvage denim’s dense, tough weave ensures a long-lasting garment.

A CULT CLASSIC Men’s jeans made of selvage denim have become a favorite fashion item.  ey are rugged and sti when new. However, with wear, selvage jeans develop a signature creased and faded pattern unique to each wearer. Typically, the side seams are on the woven edge, so a turned-up cu displays the fabric’s bona  des to raw denim initiates. If you want to incorporate this distinctive material into your wardrobe, think beyond jeans. Look for any patterns that include some straight, on- seams, and place those along the selvage. With a lapped,  at-felled, or other unconven- tional , you can bring the decorative selvages to the garment’s right side. I’ll tell you more about how to craft a pair of custom selvage jeans, and how to care for them so they age beautifully and with individuality.

Jennifer Stern-Hasemann designs J Stern Designs patterns, and teaches tting and techniques online and across the country.

RECOGNIZE YOUR SELVAGES

Selvage denim is woven on shuttle looms, which produce fabric by one continuous weft through the warp that are stretched on the loom. The warp yarns make up the straight grain; the weft yarn forms the cross-grain. Because the weft yarn travels back and forth, at each selvage it reverses direction and wraps the fabric’s edges, creating a strong, ravel-resistant edge. On a projectile loom, the warp yarns are similarly stretched onto the loom. However, the weft yarns are woven one by one through the warp, so each weft yarn leaves a loose end at the selvages, resulting in a frayed appearance. These looms can produce wider fabric at higher speed, but the selvages aren’t especially sturdy or attractive.

Cone mills’ selvage denim has been used for work clothes for decades, as shown in this advertisement from the first half of the 20th century.

Huston Textile Company of Mather, California, is a family-owned mill that manufactures small-batch selvage denim. The company uses local, sustainably sourced fibers for all its , and weaves them on vintage narrow shuttle looms.

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T211_ST_SelvageDenimJeans.indd 43 7/24/20 11:35 AM Patterns, fitting, and layout To make a traditional pair of selvage jeans, you’ll need the right pattern, some fitting tips, and a special layout.

SUITABLE DESIGNS To take advantage of the selvage edge, a jeans pattern must have straight side seams that run parallel to the grainline. That means the leg must fall straight down from the widest part of the hip. All the fitting happens along the crotch seam, the back yoke seam, and the inseams. The only available women’s jeans pattern currently on the market that is designed specifically for selvage denim is the J Jeans from J Stern Designs (JSternDesigns.com). To determine if your figure can successfully be fitted in this style, compare your waist, full hip, and thighs (measured together) measurements. If they are within 2 inches of each other, your shape is compatible with a selvage pattern. If you have more waist definition or a curvy figure, you may not be able to get the fit you prefer in this jeans style. It is possible to reduce the waist circumference by a few inches, by pinning fitting darts in a muslin, then transferring them to the yoke or center seams. A contoured waistband is Waist another option that provides shaping at the waistline. If traditional jeans are not the right option for you, explore other styles such as such as wide-leg trouser jeans. As long as the side seams are parallel to the straight grain from the hip down, you can place them on the selvage.

Full hips

Thighs

Side seam

Compare Jeans’ side seams must be straight and parallel to the grainline to your waist, make a traditional selvage style. hip, and thigh measurements to determine if classic selvage-cut jeans are a good choice for you.

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T211_ST_SelvageDenimJeans.indd 44 7/23/20 12:30 PM FITTING TIPS Even on a straight-seamed pattern, you can make adjustments for a more personalized fit.

Raise and take in the waistline Narrow the legs On the back, raise the waistline on the yoke, and angle the On a test garment, measure how much you want to take in at yoke’s side and center-back seams in. On the front, slash knee level. On the pattern front and back, mark this amount horizontally across the leg below the pocket opening, and at the knee and draw a new inseam from there to the original spread by the amount you raised the back yoke. Angle the crotch points. Complete the inseam by extending it from the center-front edge slightly to reduce the waist circumference. knee to the . Bear in mind that you can’t drastically taper the legs at the inseams only, without risking grain distortion.

Raised back yoke BACK YOKE Angled center front

Spread the front to match the back yoke adjustment. FRONT BACK

FRONT BACK

Reduce the leg width at the inseams.

Increase sitting room Widen the legs “Scooping” the crotch curve creates more space for the seat. On the front and back patterns, measure out from the knee Begin by scooping the back crotch curve. If this isn’t sufficient, by the desired increase in width. Redraw the inseam from scoop the front and back curves, and lower the inseams this point up to the original crotch points, then complete the equally. Finally, if you need more room in the upper thigh as inseams from the knee to the hem. well, extend the crotch points.

Extended crotch Scoop line points

FRONT BACK FRONT BACK

Scoop-and-extend line

Add width at the inseams.

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T211_ST_SelvageDenimJeans.indd 45 7/23/20 12:30 PM Right front pocket piece Left front SELVAGE LAYOUT pocket piece Place the front and back leg side seams on the selvages. Arrange the fronts and backs opposite each other, and be sure to flip the patterns to cut the opposite RIGHT sides. Use a with-nap layout to ensure there is no difference in the appearance of RIGHT BACK FRONT each jeans leg. In most jeans sizes, there’s room for the smaller pieces, such as the pockets, yokes, shield and , and belt loops, between the large pieces. I like to cut the waistband in two pieces and on the bias. For added interest, consider placing small, straight pieces such as belt loops or fly shields on the selvage. Coin pocket

FLY SHIELD

Feature the selvage on small garment elements.

Fly facing Belt loops BACK YOKE

BACK YOKE

Selvage Selvage

How to sew selvage denim LEFT LEFT The main concerns when sewing denim are preventing frayed edges along BACK FRONT seams and choosing tools and supplies that can stand up to this rugged fabric.

BACK EDGE FINISHES STITCHING METHODS POCKET Serge the cut edges with a narrow For construction seams, install a size 14/90 three- before or 16/100 denim or jeans needle, and you start construction to save thread the machine with good-quality time. I like to add character to the all-purpose thread. To , use a size BACK interior with contrasting thread 16/100 topstitching needle and jeans-stitch POCKET in the upper and lower loopers. If or topstitching thread. If the machine can’t you plan to flat-fell some seams, stitch through thick seam allowances, you may opt not to serge. pound them gently with a rubber mallet.

Serged seam allowances

Selvage-finished side seam HALF WAISTBAND

Inseam HALF WAISTBAND Photos: (p. 42; p. 47, right) Jack Deutsch; (p. 43, left; p. 47, left and inset) courtesy of Huston Textile Co.; (p. 43, right) courtesy of Cone Denim LLC, a division of Elevate Textiles, Inc.; all others, Mike Yamin. Illustrations: Steven Fleck. Stylist: Jessica Saal. Jessica Saal. Stylist: Fleck. Steven Illustrations: Yamin. Mike all others, Inc.; Textiles, a division of Elevate Denim LLC, courtesy of Cone right) 43, (p. Co.; Textile and inset) courtesy of Huston left 47, p. left; 43, (p. Jack Deutsch; right) 47, p. 42; (p. Photos: shoes—42 Gold (Zappos.com). & Bond (Nordstrom.com), belt—Treasure (Nordstrom.com), sweater—Halogen BaubleBar (Target.com), by earrings—SugarFix 42 and 47) (pp. Styling credits: AgataHelena.com. Hair and makeup:

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T211_ST_SelvageDenimJeans.indd 46 7/23/20 12:31 PM Create and maintain the authentic fade Most people like raw denim because of the unique, wear-specific fade patterns that occur over time. You can maximize that effect by handling this rugged fabric with care.

RECONSIDER PREWASHING Although you can pretreat selvage denim like other denim types by laundering and drying it to avoid future shrinkage, it’s not recommended if you want to establish and maintain the ideal fade. Raw denim may shrink up to 10 percent, unless your fabric is Sanforized (mechanically preshrunk). If you’re uncertain, wash and dry a 10-inch square to determine how much the fabric shrinks. Machine-washing selvage denim has another disadvantage: It can abrade and redistribute the indigo dye unevenly over the fabric surface, creating a crinkled, marbleized surface pattern.

RS WS A roll of denim by Huston Textile Company displays the hallmark selvage. This tightly woven edge needs no additional finishing. Woven selvage WEAR IN THE JEANS True selvage denim aficionados limit how often they wash their jeans. You can wear them for several months before the first washing. The jeans soften and develop faded creases that are individualized to your body’s shape. The best fade is usually considered to be one with high contrast between the darkest and lightest Selvage jeans start areas, and distinct linear creases at the front thighs, back knees, ankles, out a rich, uniform pockets, and elsewhere, depending on how you wear them. indigo color. Over months of wear, unique WASH CAREFULLY distress patterns When you decide it’s time to wash the jeans, don’t throw them into the washing machine. The will develop. best method, for maintaining the sought-after fade and avoiding unwanted wrinkle patterns, is to wash by hand. Fill the bathtub with enough lukewarm water to cover the jeans, add a tablespoon of detergent, and stir to mix it. Use a nonbleach detergent, such as Woolite Dark. Turn the jeans inside out and submerge them. Agitate by hand, then leave the jeans to soak for 45 minutes. Gently scrub dirty areas. Drain the tub and refill with cold water; soak the jeans for

Photos: (p. 42; p. 47, right) Jack Deutsch; (p. 43, left; p. 47, left and inset) courtesy of Huston Textile Co.; (p. 43, right) courtesy of Cone Denim LLC, a division of Elevate Textiles, Inc.; all others, Mike Yamin. Illustrations: Steven Fleck. Stylist: Jessica Saal. Jessica Saal. Stylist: Fleck. Steven Illustrations: Yamin. Mike all others, Inc.; Textiles, a division of Elevate Denim LLC, courtesy of Cone right) 43, (p. Co.; Textile and inset) courtesy of Huston left 47, p. left; 43, (p. Jack Deutsch; right) 47, p. 42; (p. Photos: shoes—42 Gold (Zappos.com). & Bond (Nordstrom.com), belt—Treasure (Nordstrom.com), sweater—Halogen BaubleBar (Target.com), by earrings—SugarFix 42 and 47) (pp. Styling credits: AgataHelena.com. Hair and makeup: 10 minutes to rinse. Finally, roll the jeans in a towel to absorb extra water and hang to dry.

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