CONTENTS

List of Maps vi

1 THE BEST OF 1 The Best Purely Belizean The Best Destinations for Experiences 1 Families 11 The Best of Natural Belize 4 The Best Luxury Hotels & Resorts 12 The Best Diving & Snorkeling 5 The Best Moderately Priced The Best Nondiving Adventures 6 Hotels 13 The Best Day Hikes & Nature The Best Budget Hotels 14 Walks 7 The Best Restaurants 15 The Best Bird-Watching 8 The Best After-Dark Fun 17 The Best Mayan Ruins 9 The Best Websites About Belize 17 The Best Views 10

2 BELIZE IN DEPTH 19 Belize Today 19 Art & Architecture 26 SPEAKING OF TONGUES 20 Belize in Books, Film & Music 27 Looking Back at Belize 21 Belizean Food & Drink 29 The Lay of the Land 24

3 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BELIZE 34 When to Go 34 Specialized Travel Resources 47 BELIZE CALENDAR OF EVENTS 35 Sustainable Tourism 48 Entry Requirements 37 SUSTAINABLE PROPERTIES IN BELIZE 49 Getting There & Getting Around 38 GENERAL RESOURCES FOR GREEN TRAVEL 50 CAR-RENTALCOPYRIGHTED TIPS 41 MATERIAL 51 Money & Costs 42 Staying Connected PLANNING A BELIZE WEDDING 52 Health 44 Tips on Accommodations 53 Safety 46

002_9780470887707-ftoc.indd2_9780470887707-ftoc.indd iiiiii 111/16/101/16/10 6:146:14 PMPM 4 SUGGESTED BELIZE ITINERARIES 54 The Regions in Brief 54 Belize for Families 60 Belize in 1 Week 57 Mayan Ruins Highlights 62 Belize in 2 Weeks 58 in 1 Day 63

5 THE ACTIVE VACATION PLANNER 65 Organized Adventure Trips 65 Tips on Health, Safety & Etiquette Activities A to Z 68 in the Wilderness 79 Belize’s Top Parks & Bioreserves 75 Ecologically Oriented Volunteer & Study Programs 81

6 BELIZE CITY 83 Orientation 86 What to See & Do 97 THE NEIGHBORHOODS IN BRIEF 87 BARON BLISS 100 Getting Around 88 Outdoor Activities 102 FAST FACTS: BELIZE CITY 89 Shopping 103 Where to Stay 91 Belize City After Dark 106 Where to Dine 94 Side Trips from Belize City 106

7 THE NORTHERN CAYES & ATOLLS 108 Ambergris Caye 110 CHOCOLATE & THE MANATEES 138 THE PERFECT PLUNGE 117 A SMALL CAYE ON THE WAY 146 PAINT WARS 121 The Outer Atolls 146 Caye Caulker 133

8 SOUTHERN BELIZE 150 150 Hopkins Village & Sittee River THE GARÍFUNA 152 Village 166 IF YOU COME TO A FORK IN THE ROAD, TAKE Placencia 172 BOTH 155 Punta Gorda & the Toledo GARÍFUNA SETTLEMENT DAY 159 District 186

002_9780470887707-ftoc.indd2_9780470887707-ftoc.indd iviv 111/16/101/16/10 6:146:14 PMPM 9 NORTHERN BELIZE 198 Along the Old Northern Going West 210 Highway 200 BARRY BOWEN, BELIKIN BEER, COCA-COLA En Route North: Crooked Tree & CHAN CHICH 212 Wildlife Sanctuary 202 213 Orange Walk Town 203 CROSSING INTO MEXICO 217 MENNONITES IN BELIZE 204 The Submerged Crocodile: Lamanai 208

10 THE CAYO DISTRICT & WESTERN BELIZE 221 Belmopan 222 Mountain Pine Ridge & Caracol 248 San Ignacio 231

11 TIKAL & GUATEMALA’S PETÉN 256 Tikal 256 SEEING THE FOREST FROM THE TREES 268 SAFETY IN GUATEMALA 262 El Remate 271 SUNRISE, SUNSET 267 Flores & Santa Elena 274

12 FAST FACTS: BELIZE 284 Fast Facts 284 Airline, Hotel & Rental Websites 287

13 USEFUL TERMS & PHRASES 289 Creole Terms 289 Spanish Terms 291

14 BELIZEAN WILDLIFE 294 Fauna 294 Flora 319

Index 324 Accommodations Index 334 Restaurants Index 336

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The Best of Belize2 Punta Gorda187 Maya Sites in Belize23 Northern Belize199 Belize55 Altun Ha201 Belize in 1 Week & 2 Weeks59 Orange Walk Town205 Belize for Families & Mayan Ruins Lamanai209 Highlight Tour61 Corozal Town215 Belize City in 1 Day64 Western Belize223 Belize’s National Parks & Nature Belmopan225 Reserves77 San Ignacio233 Belize City84 Xunantunich237 The Northern Cayes & Atolls109 Mountain Pine Ridge249 Ambergris Caye111 Caracol253 San Pedro113 Petén257 Caye Caulker135 Tikal258 Southern Belize151 Flores & Santa Elena275 Dangriga153 Placencia173

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