The Voices Of

THE VOICES OF MACAO STONE S Lindsay and May Rid e Abridged with additional material by Jason Wordie Foreword by John King Fairbank Hong Kong University Press 14/F Hing Wai Centre 7 Tin Wan Praya Road Aberdeen Hong Kong © Hong Kong University Press 1999 ISBN 962 209 487 2 All rights reserved. No portion o f this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any recording, or any information storag e or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Seme On-line Ordering Printed in Hong Kong by Liang Yu Printing Factory Ltd. Contents List of Illustrations Vii Foreword b y John Kin g Fairban k xi Acknowledgements xiii Introduction b y Jason Wordie 1 PORTUGUESE VOYAGE S O F DISCOVER Y The Temple o f Ma Ko k Mi u — Iberia n Maritim e Expansio n — Englis h Roya l Blood — Princ e Henry , Th e Navigato r — Portugues e Explorer s — Vasc o d a Gama — Almeid a an d Albuquerqu e — Jorg e Álvare s — Sixteent h Centur y Sino Portugues e Japanes e Relation s — St . John’s Island, Lampaca o and A h M a Kao / PORTUGUESE AH-MA-KA O City o f Macao and It s Senate — Earl y Chines e Relation s with Maca o — Macao’ s Status — Struggl e fo r Colon y Statu s — Joã o Mari a Ferreir a d o Amara l — Vicente Nicola u d e Mesquita — Fro m Colon y to Provinc e — Dependencie s o f Taipa an d Coloan e Island s — Taipa’ s Monumen t — Coloane’ s Monumen t — Barriers and Portal s Za v THE VOICE S O F MACA O STONE S STONES, ECCLESIASTICAL AND SECULAR The Cathedral of Macao and the Church of St. Lazarus — Churches and Fortresses — The Monte Fortress — Guia Fortress — Penha — Barra — Bomparto — São Francisco — Mong Há — Dona Maria II — António de Albuquerque de Coelho — Francisco Xavier Doutel — Façade of St. Paul’s Collegiate Church — The Victory Monument — Gardens, Fountains and Wells — Flower Fountain — Alfredo August o d e Almeida — Foun t o f Env y — Foun t o f Solitud e — Grandmother’s Fountai n — Jardim d e Sã o Francisco — Flor a Garden s — Camoens Gardens — Luís de Camões 67 Conclusion 127 Bibliography 129 Index 131 vi List of Illustrations PLATES After p . 6 Ah-Ma Temple from th e Brag a Collectio n To The Indies by Georg e Smirnof f Exterior view of the Leal Senado by Georg e Smirnof f Interior view of the Leal Senado by Georg e Smirnof f View of Macao and The Monte b y Georg e Smirnof f View of the gatehouse of The Monte by Georg e Smirnof f View of the ramparts of The Monte by Georg e Smirnof f Inside The Monte b y Georg e Smirnof f After p . 6 6 The Cathedral of Macao by Georg e Smirnof f View of the fortress and lighthouse of Guia b y Georg e Smirnof f View of the small chapel of São Tiago da Barra, with the walls of the old fortress behind it by Georg e Smirnof f Dona Maria Fortress by Georg e Smirnof f View of St. Paul’s Collegiate Church by Georg e Smirnof f View of the fountain in the São Francisco Gardens by Georg e Smirnof f Flora Gardens by Vicente Paci a The bust of Luís de Camões (Camoens) by Georg e Smirnof f vii THE VOICE S O F MACA O STONE S After p. 126 View of the winding paths in the Camoens Garden by George Smirnoff View of St. Anthony’s Church from the Camoens Gardens by George Smirnoff São Tiago Fort (St. James), Macao by Marciano Baptista (from the Braga Collection) The Redoubt of St. Peter, Praia Grande, Macao by George Chinnery The cloisters of St. Joseph’s Seminary by George Smirnoff Part of the cloisters of St. Joseph’s Seminary by George Smirnoff Eastern corner of Macao looking south by George Smirnoff Macao showing Praia Grande Bay from south by George Smirnoff PHOTOGRAPHS The rock carving at the Temple o f Ma-Kok-Miu 9 Bust in the Liceu Nacional Dom Henrique 1 4 Street sign — Avenida do Infante Dom Henrique 1 4 The Vasco da Gama memorial 1 7 Azulejos o f the monster Adamastor 1 7 The bronze bust o f Vasco da Gama 2 0 Street sign — Afonso de Albuquerque 2 2 The Jorge Álvares monument 2 4 The Reinad Felipe stone 3 5 The Temple o f Kun Yum 4 2 The Amaral memorial 4 6 The Amaral stone 4 8 The Mesquita memorial 5 1 The Mesquita memorial inscriptions 5 2 The Mesquita memorial post 1–2–3 December 1966 5 3 The Taipa memorial 5 9 The Coloane victory memorial 6 1 The Portas do Cerco stone 6 4 The Macao city wall 6 5 The cross at the Church o f St. Lazarus 6 9 The inscriptions at the Church o f St. Lazarus 7 0 The brass plaque near the entrance o f the Monte Fort 7 4 The Guia Fort stone 7 8 The Guia tombstone 7 9 viii LIST O F ILLUSTRATION S The belfry outside the chapel in Guia Fort 8 1 The Penha Church inscription 8 2 The statue o f St. James in the chapel in Barra Fort 8 5 The Bomparto wall and stone 8 6 The stone and fortress o f Mong Há 8 8 The Dona Maria II stone 9 0 The running hand inscription on the Dona Maria II Stone 9 0 Latin inscription on the foundation ston e of 10 1 St. Paul’s Collegiate Church Two views of St. Paul’s Collegiate Church 10 2 Stones in the Flora Gardens 10 4 The memorial stone of George Botelho 10 5 The memorial stone of Angela de Lus 10 7 Fragments of the memorial stone of Sebastian Alvares 10 8 Fragments of the memorial stone of Domingos Marques 10 9 The stone slab of Associacao Piedoza de S. Francisco Xavier 11 0 Two views of the Victory monument 11 3 The Flora Gardens 11 5 The neglected remains of the former façad e at the Fonte Inveja, 11 7 and the Roman head The Fonte Solidão in 1908 11 8 The large replica o f a wall fountain in the courtyard 12 0 of the Leal Senado The new fountain in the restored Largo do Lilau 12 1 A picture of the monster Adamastor in blue and white tiles 12 4 MAP Macao, Taipa and Coloane 5 7 ix Portuguese Voyages of Discovery THE PORTUGUESE CIT Y o f Macao stands on a to her establishment and development i s preserved promontory jutting out, like a water-lily a s one of in her private memorials and public monuments. It its Chinese names describes it, from th e south-east is from thes e record s in stone tha t w e propose t o corner o f the larg e delt a islan d o f Heung Sha n reconstruct a s much o f the history o f Macao and of (Fragrant Mountains) which form s th e outermos t her influence o n the emergence o f modern South - part o f the western lip of the Pearl River estuary. It East Asia, as is necessary to enable readers to for m is buil t o n th e shor e o f a small harbour , whic h their ow n opinion s fro m th e biographie s i n ou r geographical feature s divid e into inner and oute r later pages. portions. For many centuries this harbour has been chiefly the home of fisher-folk an d a port fo r river , coastal an d eve n deep-se a trade , bu t i t ha s als o THE TEMPL E O F MA-KOK-MI U always been a haven fo r an y craf t seekin g eithe r mmm) shelter from the storms of the South China Sea, or refuge fro m pirate s • — when i t wa s no t itsel f a THIS TEMPL E I S th e buildin g wit h whic h pirate stronghold. Th e coming o f the Portugues e consideration of Macao's history should begin, both led to an increase in its local and regional trade, and from the point of view of age and from the fact that also to the establishment o f a new intercontinental it was from it that Macao derived its name. trade, as other European maritime powers followe d The early boat people of south China, like most Portugal's lea d and made Maca o the terminus o f seafolk the world over , were highly religious, and their Asian trade routes as well. invariably burned incense and made thank-offering s Much o f Macao's earl y history ca n be gleaned to thei r sea-goddes s o n their saf e retur n fro m a from he r temples, churches, and civi c buildings , successful venture afloat, o r for their delivery fro m while the personal history of those who contributed the dangers o f any particularly perilous part o f it. 7 THE VOICE S O F MACA O STONE S Their Notre Dame de la Garde was Leung Ma (%%%%), nationality, but not its hospitable nature to which one of the manifestations o f T'ien Ho (3zJQ), th e many members o f a Hong Kon g generation, onl y Queen o f Heaven, an d shrine s dedicate d t o he r now growing old, can testify; they have cause to be were t o b e foun d alon g th e whol e o f the coas t ever grateful fo r the welcome an d the hospitalit y stretching fro m Fukie n i n the north-east , t o fa r which the people of Macao so freely — and with no beyond Haina n i n the south-west .

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